sailboat rail cleats

Types of Cleats On A Sailboat

• July 18, 2023

Table of Contents

Cleats are essential fixtures on a sailboat used to secure lines (ropes) and control sail trim. They come in various designs and are strategically placed throughout the boat to provide convenient and secure attachment points. Here, I will describe the different types of cleats found on a sailboat in detail:

Sailboat Cleat Types

The horn cleat is the most common and recognizable type of cleat. It features one or more protruding horns or arms that provide multiple options for securing lines. The line is wrapped around the horns in a figure-eight pattern to create a secure hold. Horn cleats come in different sizes and are used for various applications throughout the boat, including halyards, sheets, and control lines.

Recommended Horn Cleats:

Ronstan Horn Cleat Nylon 76MM (3″)

Schaefer Mid-Rail Chock and Cleat Mounts on 1-1/4 x 3/16-Inch T-Track fits Up to 5/8-Inch/16mm Line

Cam cleats are designed with a spring-loaded cam mechanism that clamps down on the line when it is under tension. The cam grips the line securely and holds it in place until released. Cam cleats are popular for applications where quick and easy adjustment is required, such as controlling jib or spinnaker sheets. They are commonly found on sailboats with high-performance or racing-oriented setups.

Recommended Cam Cleats:

Jam cleats, also known as jamming cleats or rope clutches, are designed to hold a line firmly under load. They feature a set of ridges or teeth that grip the line when it is tensioned. Jam cleats provide a secure hold and are often used for halyards, control lines, and other high-load applications. To release the line, it needs to be pulled at a specific angle to disengage the teeth.

Recommended Jam Cleats:

Clam cleats consist of two interlocking jaws that close around the line. As the line is pulled, the jaws grip it tightly, creating a secure hold. Clam cleats are often used for smaller lines, such as control lines on dinghies or small sailboats. They provide quick and easy adjustment and are commonly found on boats where weight and simplicity are crucial.

Recommended Clam Cleats:

Osculati Clamcleat

V cleats, as the name suggests, have a V-shaped groove that runs along the top surface of the cleat. The line is inserted into the groove, and the V-shaped design holds it securely in place. V cleats are primarily used for smaller-diameter lines or control lines. They are commonly found on dinghies and small sailboats where space and weight are at a premium.

Recommended V Cleats:

Nautos 91061 – V Jam Cleat – Sailboat Hardware

Jammers are similar to jam cleats but offer a more sophisticated and mechanical gripping mechanism. They consist of one or more jaws that grip the line under tension using a cam or lever system. Jammers provide a strong and secure hold and are commonly used for halyards, control lines, and sheets on larger sailboats or racing-oriented setups.

Recommended Jammers:

Spinlock Mobile Jammer for securing Loaded Lines 10-14mm

Rope Clutch

Rope clutches are heavy-duty cleats often used on larger sailboats. They consist of multiple jaws or disks that can be engaged or disengaged to secure or release a line. Rope clutches are designed to handle high loads and are commonly used for controlling halyards, sheets, and other lines that require precise adjustment and secure holding power.

Recommended Rope Clutches:

Deck cleats, also known as mooring cleats, are larger cleats that are permanently mounted to the deck or cockpit of a sailboat. They provide a secure attachment point for dock lines, fenders, and other lines used for docking or securing the boat. Deck cleats are usually made of durable materials such as stainless steel or aluminum and are designed to handle significant loads.

Recommended Deck Cleats:

Fairlead Cleat

Fairlead cleats combine the functionality of a cleat with that of a fairlead, which helps guide lines to the appropriate cleating position. They feature an integrated fairlead or a combination of a fairlead and a cleat. Fairlead cleats are commonly used for jib or genoa sheet control lines, where it is important to guide the line for optimal sail trim and secure it quickly.

Recommended Fairlead Cleats:

HARKEN Micro Carbo-Cam Cleat Kit w/Wire Fairlead

Jamming Block with Cleat

This type of cleat is a combination of a jammer or a cam cleat with a pulley or block. It allows the line to be redirected and creates a mechanical advantage when trimming sails. Jamming blocks with cleats are commonly used for applications that require increased purchase or control, such as mainsheet systems or complex control line setups.

Recommended Jamming Block Cleats:

It’s important to note that the specific cleat types and their placement on a sailboat can vary depending on the boat’s design, rigging setup, and intended use. Sailboat owners and manufacturers may also develop unique variations or combinations of cleats to suit their specific needs. Proper installation, sizing, and maintenance of cleats are essential for safe and efficient sail handling.

The Sailor’s Marketplace for Sailboats and Sails.

Sell Your Sailboat

Sailboats for sale.

• New Sailboats
• Used Sailboats
• Cruising Sailboats
• Racing Sailboats

Sell Your Sails

Sails for sail, sail manufacturers.

• North Sails
• Quantum Sails
• Doyle Sails
• UK Sailmakers

Sailing Reviews

• Sailing Line
• Safety Equipment
• Sailing Accesories

As an Amazon Associate SailTrader earns from qualifying purchases.

This website uses cookies to ensure you get the best experience possible. 

Free Shipping Over $99 - 366 Day Returns - Expert Advice

• Call Us +1-503-285-5536
• Sign in & Register
• Recently Viewed
• General Parts

Sailboat Cleats provide holding power for mainsheets, jibs, halyards, and more on small sailboats. Shop our vast selection of cleat types, including cam cleats, horn cleats, clam cleats, and jam cleats. We stock cleats from reliable brands such as Ronstan, Harken, SeaDog, and more. Whether it is tweaking your control lines, or wanting a free hand while sailing, having the right cleat makes all the difference. 

• Qty in Cart

Ronstan Horn Cleat 6-1/2 Inch

Ronstan Horn Cleat 5 Inch

Ronstan Horn Cleat 4 Inch

Ronstan Horn Cleat 3 Inch

Clam Cleat with Becket

Allen Pump Action Cleat

Cleat Support Wedge with Fairlead

Ronstan Horn Cleat 8 Inch

Ronstan Cam Cleat Fairlead Small Black

Ronstan Cam Cleat Saddle Stainless Large

Ronstan Cam Cleat Fairlead Medium Grey

Ronstan Cam Cleat Saddle Stainless Medium

Ronstan Cam Cleat Saddle Stainless Small

Ronstan Cam Cleat Large C-Cleat Grey

Ronstan Cam Cleat Medium T-Cleat Red

Ronstan Cam Cleat with Swivel

• Total: items /
• Add all to cart

Adding your products to cart

Subscribe to our newsletter.

Sign up for our newsletter to receive exclusive discounts, new product announcements, and upcoming sales.

Please verify you are a human

Access to this page has been denied because we believe you are using automation tools to browse the website.

This may happen as a result of the following:

• Javascript is disabled or blocked by an extension (ad blockers for example)
• Your browser does not support cookies

Please make sure that Javascript and cookies are enabled on your browser and that you are not blocking them from loading.

Reference ID: d2e9cc94-45ee-11ef-95f2-03089bd94be4

Powered by PerimeterX , Inc.

× You are using an outdated browser. Please upgrade your browser to improve your experience.

We Ship Worldwide! | FREE SHIPPING! for US Continental orders over $99. Click for details.

Shopping Cart

Your cart is currently empty..

FREE SHIPPING! for US Continental orders over $99 click for details

Sailboat Track Cleats & Accessories

T Track Adjustable Cleat 32 x 6

T Track Adjustable Cleat 40 x 8

Barton Marine

165mm (6.5") nylon sliding cleat fits 25mm (0.98") 't' track.

200mm Nylon Sliding Cleat - Fits 25mm T-Track

Stanchion Cleat

1 1/4 in SS Mid-Rail Chock Cleat

1 in SS Mid-Rail Chock Cleat

Track Cleats are a cost-effective solution to fitting a mid-ship spring cleat where access under the side deck is limited. It can easily replace a genoa track end stop.

MAURIPRO Sailing, your direct access to Sailboat Track Cleats & Accessories and all your other sailing and boating needs.

Copyright © 2024 MAURIPRO Sailing LLC.

• Sports & Outdoors
• Boating & Sailing
• Docking & Anchoring Equipment
• Dock Cleats

Enjoy fast, free delivery, exclusive deals, and award-winning movies & TV shows with Prime Try Prime and start saving today with fast, free delivery

Amazon Prime includes:

Fast, FREE Delivery is available to Prime members. To join, select "Try Amazon Prime and start saving today with Fast, FREE Delivery" below the Add to Cart button.

• Cardmembers earn 5% Back at Amazon.com with a Prime Credit Card.
• Unlimited Free Two-Day Delivery
• Streaming of thousands of movies and TV shows with limited ads on Prime Video.
• A Kindle book to borrow for free each month - with no due dates
• Listen to over 2 million songs and hundreds of playlists
• Unlimited photo storage with anywhere access

Important:  Your credit card will NOT be charged when you start your free trial or if you cancel during the trial period. If you're happy with Amazon Prime, do nothing. At the end of the free trial, your membership will automatically upgrade to a monthly membership.

Return this item for free

We offer easy, convenient returns with at least one free return option: no shipping charges. All returns must comply with our returns policy.

• Go to your orders and start the return
• Select your preferred free shipping option
• Drop off and leave!

Image Unavailable

• To view this video download Flash Player

Sea-Dog Line Rail Mount Cleat, rail mount cleat 4-1/2in

Purchase options and add-ons

Brand	Sea Dog Line
Fastener Material	Stainless Steel
Manufacturer	Sea-Dog Line
UPC	035514327015

Frequently bought together

Similar items that may ship from close to you

Product Description

- Ideal for easy attachment of fenders, flag halyards, canvas tie downs and related accessories- Fits both 7/8 in. and 1 in. tubing

Product information

Technical details.

Manufacturer	‎Sea-Dog Line
Brand	‎Sea Dog Line
Item Weight	‎3.2 ounces
Package Dimensions	‎7.3 x 4.2 x 1.1 inches
Manufacturer Part Number	‎327111-1

Additional Information

ASIN	B00DH3J238
Customer Reviews	4.4 out of 5 stars
Best Sellers Rank	#263,407 in Sports & Outdoors ( ) #140 in
Date First Available	June 19, 2013

Warranty & Support

Amazon.com Return Policy: You can return many items you have purchased within 30 days following delivery of the item to you. Our Voluntary 30-Day Return Guarantee does not affect your legal right of withdrawal in any way. You can find out more about the exceptions and conditions .

Fields with an asterisk * are required

: : : : : Please select province : : to provide feedback. \n' + ' ' ); } function getThankYouDiv(thankMsg) { return ( ' \n' + '

' ); } function getLoadingGifDiv() { return '

Looking for specific info?

Customer reviews.

Customer Reviews, including Product Star Ratings help customers to learn more about the product and decide whether it is the right product for them.

To calculate the overall star rating and percentage breakdown by star, we don’t use a simple average. Instead, our system considers things like how recent a review is and if the reviewer bought the item on Amazon. It also analyzed reviews to verify trustworthiness.

• Sort reviews by Top reviews Most recent Top reviews

Top reviews from the United States

There was a problem filtering reviews right now. please try again later..

• Amazon Newsletter
• About Amazon
• Accessibility
• Sustainability
• Press Center
• Investor Relations
• Amazon Devices
• Amazon Science
• Sell on Amazon
• Sell apps on Amazon
• Supply to Amazon
• Protect & Build Your Brand
• Become an Affiliate
• Become a Delivery Driver
• Start a Package Delivery Business
• Advertise Your Products
• Self-Publish with Us
• Become an Amazon Hub Partner
• › See More Ways to Make Money
• Amazon Visa
• Amazon Store Card
• Amazon Secured Card
• Amazon Business Card
• Shop with Points
• Credit Card Marketplace
• Reload Your Balance
• Amazon Currency Converter
• Your Account
• Your Orders
• Shipping Rates & Policies
• Amazon Prime
• Returns & Replacements
• Manage Your Content and Devices
• Recalls and Product Safety Alerts

• Conditions of Use
• Privacy Notice
• Consumer Health Data Privacy Disclosure
• Your Ads Privacy Choices

Item added to your cart

Sailboat Parts

Solid Bronze 4 3/4” Toe Rail Chock Cleats -PAIR

PRICE: $90.00

Only 1 left in stock

Couldn't load pickup availability

Have a question about this product? Click here!

View What's In Stock

Bilge Pump Control Switch

Teak Magazine Wall Rack

Barient Winch Handle- 11 1/2” Long

• Choosing a selection results in a full page refresh.
• Opens in a new window.

• New Sailboats
• Sailboats 21-30ft
• Sailboats 31-35ft
• Sailboats 36-40ft
• Sailboats Over 40ft
• Sailboats Under 21feet
• used_sailboats
• Apps and Computer Programs
• Communications
• Fishfinders
• Handheld Electronics
• Plotters MFDS Rradar
• Wind, Speed & Depth Instruments
• Anchoring Mooring
• Running Rigging
• Sails Canvas
• Standing Rigging
• Diesel Engines
• Off Grid Energy
• Cleaning Waxing
• DIY Projects
• Repair, Tools & Materials
• Spare Parts
• Tools & Gadgets
• Cabin Comfort
• Ventilation
• Footwear Apparel
• Foul Weather Gear
• Mailport & PS Advisor
• Inside Practical Sailor Blog
• Activate My Web Access
• Reset Password
• Customer Service

• Free Newsletter

Maine Cat 41 Used Boat Review

CS 30 Used Boat Review

Hinckley 49 Used Boat Review

Island Packet 31 Used Boat Review

Best Crimpers and Strippers for Fixing Marine Electrical Connectors

Thinking Through a Solar Power Installation

How Does the Gulf Stream Influence our Weather?

Can You Run a Marine Air-Conditioner on Battery Power?

Master the Sailing Basics: Never Stop Learning the Little Things

How to Mount Your Camera on Deck: Record Your Adventures with…

Un-Stepping the Mast for America’s Great Loop

Headsails and Spinnakers: How to Explain Their Functions to a Beginner

Sinking? Check Your Stuffing Box

The Rain Catcher’s Guide

How to Change Your Engine Mounts

Keeping Water Clean and Fresh

Vinyl Boat Lettering DIY Application and Repair

Those Extras you Don’t Need But Love to Have

Three-Model BBQ Test

Alcohol Stoves— Swan Song or Rebirth?

Womens Foul-Weather Gear

Preparing Yourself for Solo Sailing

How to Select Crew for a Passage or Delivery

Preparing A Boat to Sail Solo

Chafe Protection for Dock Lines

Waxing and Polishing Your Boat

Reducing Engine Room Noise

Tricks and Tips to Forming Do-it-yourself Rigging Terminals

Marine Toilet Maintenance Tips

• Sails, Rigging & Deck Gear

Practical Sailor Takes a Close Look at the State of Boat Cleats

Are boatbuilders taking cleats and other essential deck hardware for granted.

On average, a sailboat thats used 60 times a year actually spends only about 6 percent of its annual cycle underway. During the rest of the time, its either tied up, moored, anchored, or hauled out for maintenance, and when tallied up, this time can total as much as 94 percent of the year. That means that cleats (and docklines), rather than the person at the helm, will likely be in control of your sailboats destiny when the worst squall lines and cold fronts batter the fleet.

Photos by Ralph Naranjo

From this data, we can draw two important conclusions. The first is that we all need to spend more time underway, and the second underscores the importance of the cleat as an elegantly simple, yet most essential piece of hardware.

For centuries, timber-built craft relied upon one or two parallel vertical posts, often call “bitts,” that passed through the deck after being fastened to the keelson, floor frames, and deck beams. Lines were secured to these “Samson posts,” a nickname that alluded to pillars that only Samson was able to tear down. The trend to secure these line-handling bitts to major structural components of the vessel was based upon function rather than fashion, and it stemmed from the huge tension loads that could be imparted by docklines, tow warps, and anchor rodes. Bitts, along with the spoon-bow sloops and schooners that sported them, have all but disappeared from the waterfront, but the need for secure points to attach the cleats that usurped the role of the Samson post are as important as ever.

The concept of a cleat as a securing mechanism goes back to the 1400s, when antecedents to modern horn-type belaying cleats began to arrive on the scene. Eventually iron and bronze cast renditions were bolted to timber deck planking that incorporated additional under-deck reinforcement and load-spreading backing blocks. Today, in a era of stiff, light, foam-core decks, theres a need to carefully consider how energy is dissipated around cleat attachment points. For one thing, higher-density “infills” are necessary in regions where bolts secure a cleat to a cored deck. Some builders avoid this extra effort by placing cleats near the toerail, where the core is eliminated and the two fiber re-inforced plastic (FRP) skins of the deck have been brought together. This can be an adequate approach as long the laminate is thick enough or backed with a reinforcing (load-spreading) plate or extra units of FRP, and shoulder washers are used.

In addition to the structural issues involved, there are concerns over line leads and the need to make cleat use as safe and efficient as possible. Its easy to lose sight of how much energy a cleat must handle. In addition to steady-state line loads (normally in shear), there are a variety of angle and load oscillations associated with surging line loads. Fluctuations in the intensity can be linked to tidal rise and fall, along with force multipliers such as gusts and boat wakes.

Seiching, for example, is a low-frequency sloshing akin to what happens in a bowl of soup thats held in shaky hands. The net effect of such outside forces is to accelerate a tied-up vessel, adding a tension oscillation to the docklines or anchor rode. In many West Coast harbors, submarine canyons enhance this large-scale undulation, and seiching can greatly increase the wear and tear on both lines and cleats.

Cleats are the lynchpin in keeping a vessel where it belongs when conditions deteriorate. Recognizing their importance, we sent Practical Sailor Technical Editor Ralph Naranjo to the recent Annapolis and Miami boat shows on a mission to scrutinize the amount of attention designers, builders, and brokers have been placing on these crucial components. On his checklist were bullet points such as hardware positioning, fastening means, and most importantly, how the cleat handled the job at hand. He also looked to see whether the cleats (and chocks when used) were large enough to accommodate appropriate sized lines and anti-chafe gear. And finally, if a storm was in the forecast, how would the “doubling up” of docklines be handled?

These cleat-focused show visits revealed more than we initially anticipated: They highlighted that in many cases, a seafaring tradition lives on, and hardware and securing methodology were sound enough to do the job. In a few cases, such as with the “flip-up” horn cleats found of the luxury line of Oyster Yachts, there were true design innovations. But we also noted that some of the other hide-away cleat designs had to cope with water drainage and less-than-robust support structure, compromises that may not pay off in the long run. Even worse, some designers and builders seem to have dubbed cleats pass, substituting hard points such a rings and eyes as alternatives for line attachment. A few builders seemed to be placing cleats wherever they could find room to stick them. And in some cases, this meant on the transom rather than the deck itself. The result was a new set of point loads on the hull skin, plus a very awkward perch for line-handlers. This lackadaisical approach to cleat placement and the growing trend in the race-boat fraternity toward eliminating “cleat clutter” altogether, occasionally resulted in docklines being tied to pulpit stanchions, chainplates, and even stays and shrouds!

It seemed that less and less concern was given to the ergonomics of handling a line on a cleat. Its understandable that a foredeck crew in the midst of a spinnaker peel doesn’t want obstructions in the middle of their “court,” especially ones with lethal horns eager to snag a lazy guy or sheet. But from the opposite point of view, a crew adjusting docklines in a rough, gale-swept harbor needs easy access to securely mounted hardware.

A growing concern is that many manufacturers seem more concerned with how cleats and chocks look, rather than how they work. The most important consideration is whether or not a deck cleat carrying a full load can be handled without potentially sacrificing fingers.

Sheet-handling cleats in the cockpit belay lines that have been load dampened via turns around a winch drum. Just the opposite is true with a deck cleat. The energy contained in a stretching bow or spring line goes directly to a cleat. The load in the line is only slightly abated by a partial or full turn around the cleat, and when a crew member has a line in “hand,” good cleat placement allows a quick wrap to be taken without any appendages having to be placed in harms way.

Our boat-show foredeck roundup revealed a wide array of cleat/chock designs, and an even wider variation in how crews made up docklines and secured their prized possessions at center stage of these in-the-water events. Some boats, like the elegantly designed and artfully built mega-daysailer, the Friendship 53, featured cleats and chocks that kept with the theme of vessel-adding to the overall function and aesthetic appeal. The low-profile chocks and dropped-to-deck-level cleats handled braided docklines efficiently. The brokerage crew understood what they had in line-handling capability and displayed it well. With bow, stern, and double springs set, a crew could go home knowing that their sloop was securely tied to the dock. However, if storm warnings are posted, theres neither room for anti-chafe gear or room to double-up the lines.

Well over half of the boats tied up at the 2009 Annapolis and Miami boat shows displayed misled lines, foul leads, incomprehensible cleat hitches, and their brokers either ignored or were unaware of the glaring lapse in seamanship. One of the welcome exceptions to the rule belonged to Don Backe and members of Chesapeake Region Accessible Boating (CRAB), a sailing club for developmentally challenged individuals. The CRAB crew had several of their training boats on display (see photo on page 2), and despite the tight cramped confines, their lines ran fair, and anti-chafe gear had been used appropriately. Not one line was snaked back and forth like a cats cradle. Cleat hitches were properly made-in short, they displayed a fine example of good seamanship.

Line disarray was often more than just a hint about the priority given to cleats. In some cases, it was just the tip of a construction-shortfall iceberg. On several vessels festooned with floral arrangements, bowls of fruit, bottles of wine, and cute pillows, the cleats were jammed too close to the toerail, making line-handling difficult and fair leads all but impossible to attain. In the anchor lockers, we discovered little or no sign of extra reinforcement where the nuts and washers associated with cleat attachment came through the under deck. A few builders even preferred to bury aluminum plates in the laminate in order to provide reinforcement, a bad practice that, among other things, invites poultice corrosion.

• Race-Boat Alternatives
• Picks and Pans
• Design Details
• Cleat Refit Guidlines
• View PDF Format

RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR

How to mount your camera on deck: record your adventures with diy innovations, leave a reply cancel reply.

Log in to leave a comment

Latest Videos

Hunter Legend 35.5 – Behind the Curtain

Whipping Line On Your Sailboat

Hallberg Rassy 42 – Behind the Curtain

The ICW – The Easiest Way – Sail to the Sun...

• Privacy Policy
• Do Not Sell My Personal Information
• Online Account Activation
• Privacy Manager

• Search forums
• Practical Boat Owner's Reader to Reader

Midship cleat: deck, sliding or toe rail and the last, why so expensive?

• Thread starter Neil
• Start date 18 Nov 2012
• 18 Nov 2012

Well-known member

Looking to put a pair of cleats midships to aid single handed pontoon mooring. Bolt to toe rail, slide one on the genoa car track or just bolt though the deck? A deck mounted one will be awkward to fit and get in the way. The toe rail one - easiest to fit but is it strong enough, and why is it 3 times the price on a deck cleat?  

Neil said: Looking to put a pair of cleats midships to aid single handed pontoon mooring. Bolt to toe rail, slide one on the genoa car track or just bolt though the deck? A deck mounted one will be awkward to fit and get in the way. The toe rail one - easiest to fit but is it strong enough, and why is it 3 times the price on a deck cleat? Click to expand...

Deck cleats are trivial to design and fit any type of boat, so there is a big market for them. Toe-rail cleats have to be designed to fit a particular toe-rail extrusion and so have a very limited market. It is possible to create a bracket to mount a standard two-hole cleat on a toe-rail, it won't be as strong, but might be adequate. If you end up bending the toe rail, you will be well out of pocket I expect. Genoa track cleats are great if the tracks are stout in relation to the size of boat, but you have to remove them most of the time. I would go for a permanent cleat if possible, even it was a bit small. You can use a light(ish) line on this cleat if it's only for temporary mooring.  

I took the cheap, and practical, way out by taking a piece of 40 x40mm aluminium angle, grinding off a bit of the "heel", so that it fitted snugly up inside the toe-rail, to which it was bolted with 3 x 8mm bolts. This gave a flat surface. The fore and aft corners were cut away, to make it look tidy, and a plain, but substantial cleat bolted to it, with two 8mm bolts. IIRC the angle was about 300mm long. Just a little work with a hacksaw and drill. Use zinc chromate, or similar, inway of the bolts.  

mid cleat guess i'm just cheap, mounted my mids using 6 inch ordinary cleats and bolted them using large backing plates made from plywood....and they work great.  

john_morris_uk

The last time I used cleats on genoa tracks they slipped when the boat surged against her lines, no matter how hard I tightened up the thumbscrew on the cleat.  

If you have the toe rail then think about using a 'big' soft shackle - relatively cheap and if you are only using for mooring then it should be fine  

• 19 Nov 2012

silverdawn said: Hi Neil, Barton sell an adjustable cleat which expands then fits over the genoa track without removing any end fittings making it easy to change from port to starboard therefore you need only one cleat, I used one for 4years which made single handed pontoon berthing very simple . Click to expand...

Neil said: Any link - couldn't see one like that Click to expand...

john_morris_uk said: The last time I used cleats on genoa tracks they slipped when the boat surged against her lines, no matter how hard I tightened up the thumbscrew on the cleat. Click to expand...

Active member

You could also have a look at - http://www.compass24.com/web/catalog/shop/technics_chandlery_fairlead/4859816 Had a couple (one each side) for some years and they've been fine.  

I bought my toe rail cleats directly from this company: http://www.yachtstyle.co.uk/product.php Were the best value at the time (2 or 3 years ago). Might be worth a call to see if they still offer them.  

Burnham Bob

another vote for a big soft shackle. if all you are doing is securing springs it should work fine  

No longer able to rock climb so used two surplus carabiners each side clipped thro the toerail. I mentioned it here once and a comment was that the pull would damage the toerail - well the toerail bolts are in line with the direction of stress and there's plenty of em. Dunno what current cost of krabs is but a lot less than the hardware mentioned above.  

sailorman said: http://www.force4.co.uk/6639/Barton-205mm-Sliding-Cleat---32mm-T-Track.html http://www.force4.co.uk/6638/Barton-165mm-Sliding-Cleat---25mm-T-Track.html Click to expand...

PetiteFleur

I fitted a pair of Holt toe rail cleats a few years ago and they work fine, except I did have to drill an extra hole as the cleat hole dimensions did not fit my slots in the toe rail. Not a big problem, and some large countersunk washers to suit the screws were also supplied. They were just like standard cleats which had an extra rebate machined to suit the toe rail section. I managed to get them cheap from ebay but normally they are about £75 each ?. Sorry can't find the link to them - is Holt still around? If doing it again I would use standard cleats with large washers to fit on the inside of the toe rail.  

Members online

• tudorsailor
• Beneteau381
• Irish Rover
• Sadler25Owner
• gonetotheboat
• CrossedThreads
• Puffin10032
• Wandering Star
• Shearwater1
• Alfredmylne
• Fr J Hackett
• wingcommander
• ghostlymoron2
• jointventureII

Share this page

• CREATE AN ACCOUNT
• Boat Cover Finder
• Bimini Top Finder
• Boat Propeller Finder
• Engine Parts Finder
• Anchor & Dock
• Watersports
• Clothing and Footwear
• Engine Parts
• Cabin and Galley
• Covers and Biminis
• Electronics
• Paint and Maintenance
• Pumps and Plumbing
• Anchor Chains & Ropes
• Boat Fenders
• Boat Mooring
• Boat Protection
• Dock Storage & Protection
• Ladders, Steps, & Platforms
• Top Sellers

• Fishing Rods
• Fishing Reels
• Fishing Rod & Reel Combos
• Fishing Tools & Tackle Boxes
• Fishing Line
• Fly Fishing
• Fishing Bait & Fishing Lures
• Fishing Rod Holders & Storage Racks
• Fish Finders, Sounders & Sonar
• Trolling Motors
• Fishing Nets
• Fishing Downriggers & Acessories
• Fishing Outriggers & Acessories
• Fishing Kayaks
• Fish Cleaning Tables

• Inflatable Rafts
• Paddle Boarding
• Paddles & Oars
• Wakeboard, Wakesurf & Ski
• Wakeboard Towers
• Tow Ropes & Handles
• Life Jackets & PFDs
• Snow Sports
• Roof Racks, Carriers, Dollies

Men's Clothing

• Accessories

Men's Footwear

• Atheltic Shoes
• Water Shoes

Women's Clothing

• Dresses & Skirts

Women's Footwear

• Fuel Systems
• Sacrificial Anodes & Zincs
• Generator Parts
• Inflatable Boats
• Propeller Parts & Accessories
• Boat Manuals
• PWC Parts & Accessories

• Fishing Boat Seats
• Offshore Boat Seats
• Ski Boat Seats
• Pontoon Boat Seats & Furniture
• Boat Seat Pedestals & Hardware
• Boat Seats by Manufacturer
• Boat Tables & Hardware
• Boat Seat Covers
• Boat Seat Vinyl
• Floating Boat Cushions

• Barbeque Grills
• Boat Drink Holders
• Cabin Accessories & Hardware
• Boat Ventilation
• Interior & Cabin Lighting
• Marine Teak Products
• Carbon Monoxide & Smoke Detectors
• Binoculars & Telescopes

Boat Bimini Tops

• Bimini Top Accessories
• Pontoon Bimini Tops
• Other Biminis
• RV & Trailer Covers
• Boat Shrink Wrap & Accessories
• Boat Shelters

Boat Covers

• Boat Cover Accessories
• Boat Lift Canopy Covers
• Other Covers
• Boat Wiring & Cable
• Marine Batteries & Accessories
• Marine DC Power Plugs & Sockets
• Marine Electrical Meters
• Boat Lights
• Marine Electrical Panels & Circuit Breakers
• Power Packs & Jump Starters
• Marine Solar Power Accessories
• Marine Electrical Terminals
• Marine Fuse Blocks & Terminal Blocks
• Marine Switches
• Shore Power & AC Distribution

• Marine Audio & Video
• GPS Chartplotters & Accessories
• Electronic Navigation Charts & Software
• Digital Instruments
• Display Mounts
• VHF Radios & Communication
• Marine Radar
• Auto Pilot Systems
• Action Cameras

• Fiberglass & Epoxy Boat Repair
• Boat Paint & Varnish
• Marine Adhesives, Sealant, & Caulking
• Marine Engine Maintenance
• Boat Cleaners & Waxes
• Boat Cleaning Supplies

• Fresh Water Boat Systems
• Bilge Pumps
• Marine Plumbing Parts
• Wash Down Pumps
• Livewell Aerator Pumps & Live Bait Wells
• Toilet & Waste Pumps
• Marine Pump Replacement Parts

• Tires, Rims, & Hub Kits
• Boat Trailer Winches
• Boat Motor Supports & Transom Savers
• Boat Trailer Guides & Rollers
• Boat Trailer Fenders
• Boat Trailer Lights
• Boat Trailer Hardware
• Boat Trailer Jacks
• Boat Trailer Brakes & Axles
• Boat Trailer Tie Downs
• Couplers, Mounts, Hitches, & Locks

• Boat Deck Harware
• Marine Nuts, Bolts, & Screws
• Boat Handles, Pulls, & Rings
• Prop Nut Kits & Hardware
• Boat Cabin Hardware
• Marine Fasteners
• Boat Windshield Parts
• Boat Tubing & Rails
• Boat Mirrors
• Marine Tools & Tool Kits
• Boat Lettering

• Women's Clothing Deals
• Men's Clothing Deals
• Fishing Deals
• Anchor & Dock Deals
• Electrical Deals
• Electronics Deals
• Paint & Maintenance Deals
• Pumps & Plumbing Deals
• Boat Seats Deals
• Trailering Deals
• Camping & RV Deals
• Dealer Login

• Forums Login

• Search forums
• General Boating/Outdoors Activities
• Boat Topics and Questions (not engine topics)

Installing Cleats w/o access to inside of hull

• Thread starter bobdec
• Start date Sep 20, 2010

Petty Officer 2nd Class

• Sep 20, 2010

I have a 1996 SeaPro 201 Walk around Cutty Cabin. When docking it only has three cleats two aft and one centered on the bow. Half the time I end up using the bow rail for short term tie-ups. I would like to add 2 more cleats, port and starboard midships, to ease docking. But because of the walk around hull design I can not gain access the inside of the outer hull to attach large washers or an inner plate or even to install the cleat mounting nuts. Has anyone seen a kit that will allow cleat installation from the outside only. Thought about butterfly nuts like the type used on interior drywall, but they are not stainless, would require larger holes and I'm not sure hey would bear the stress. Any Ideas out there ??  

Home Cookin'

Fleet admiral.

Re: Installing Cleats w/o access to inside of hull Lesser option: screw them into the fiberglass and don't use them for any heavy pulling, or pulling straight up. To avoid the temptation to use them for more than just helper lines, use small cleats. Consider using a tap and die to thread the fiberglass. And protect against cracks and chips when you drill. The better option, to do it right, is to cut an access hole in the bulkhead, using backing plates, and close the hole with a round access hatch. It won't look bad after you're finished. Then you can use the cleats as designed. I have access holes cut into my Sea Hunt's bulkhead, covered with hatches; don't even notice them.  

Re: Installing Cleats w/o access to inside of hull Install them properly, the way Home Cookin' suggested, or you WILL eventually pull them out. One good wake while you're tied off to one them and that's all she wrote. What is preventing access, solid fiberglass or an upholstered panel in the cuddy?  

metriccrescentwrench

• Sep 21, 2010

Re: Installing Cleats w/o access to inside of hull How about a stainless rivet-nut? mcmaster.com - part number 98005A160 Granted, it's not as good as using washers or a backing plate, but it would be better than just screwing into fiberglass.  

Re: Installing Cleats w/o access to inside of hull What is preventing access, solid fiberglass or an upholstered panel in the cuddy? Boat is at the marina so I can't get a picture right now. Will do that ASAP. I want to mount the cleat on the top of the gunwale. Since it's a walk around cutty cabin the actual side wall of the cabin is separated from the gunwale buy the walkway about 10 inches wide and 10 inches deep. I will look into an access hole on the cabin and see if there is enough room to snake my arm around under the walkway to the upper gunwale. The rivet nuts look good if access is not possible.. Thanks for the responses.. Bob..  

Re: Installing Cleats w/o access to inside of hull I took a second look at mine this morning. The bulkheads (insides) of my center console are probably the same as yours at your walkway. They cut 3" access holes, then covered them with 3" flush plates--you only need enough room to slip the backing plate in, put on the washers and nuts, and tighten. be assured that you will drop something down into never never land in the process! Try vaseline to make things temporarily sticky, if magnets work take the nuts back!  

Re: Installing Cleats w/o access to inside of hull Do Not use any sort of rivet gun or toggle bolts to install cleats. An improperly installed cleat is as dangerous as an inproperly installed railing; an invitation to an accident. Don't think you're going to just put light loads on a cleat. A cleat will look like a cleat to anyone else who may use it as a cleat and cause it to pull out. I installed midship cleats on my previous boat, a sport cruiser. On one side, I partially removed a panel in the head to gain access, on the other side, I removed the electrical panel and the top panel in a hanging locker. You should be able to do it properly with bolts, nuts, and fender washers or backing plates. If you can't, forget it, don't cause a dangerous situation with poorly installed cleats.  

a70eliminator

Re: Installing Cleats w/o access to inside of hull The bow and stern cleats on my 67 MFG fiberglass boat are nothing but screw mounted, there are 4 phillips screws per and they've been there for over 40yrs! I took them off for a topside buffing years ago and put them right back the same way and no problems ever, it's just a little 16 foot pleasure boat though.  

Re: Installing Cleats w/o access to inside of hull After the lawsuit put Chris Craft into bankrupcy, thru bolting cleats has become a standard practice.  

• Sep 22, 2010

Re: Installing Cleats w/o access to inside of hull If you have ever seen a cleat snatched from it's mount and come flying toward a person lashing her to a piling....I would recommend staying far away from that boat. It may work fine for eliminator.. but not for all. If a person had to "screw and glue" deck hardware, I would recommend taping off the area, trace out the hardware, cut the tape away from the mount area, and grind or sand the gelcoat off. Better adhesion to fiberglass than gelcoat.  

sasto said: If you have ever seen a cleat snatched from it's mount and come flying toward a person lashing her to a piling.............. Click to expand...

Senior Chief Petty Officer

Re: Installing Cleats w/o access to inside of hull What about a pop up style cleat where you cut out for the cleat. Maybe you could use the hole cut for the cleat to get a through bolt started on a nut through a backing plate somehow.  

blifsey said: What about a pop up style cleat where you cut out for the cleat. Maybe you could use the hole cut for the cleat to get a through bolt started on a nut through a backing plate somehow. Click to expand...

Chief Petty Officer

Re: Installing Cleats w/o access to inside of hull see this video. Backing plate without access... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cd6S0kL48b4  

lkbum said: see this video. Backing plate without access... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cd6S0kL48b4 Click to expand...

Supreme Mariner

Lieutenant Commander

a70eliminator said: The bow and stern cleats on my 67 MFG fiberglass boat are nothing but screw mounted, there are 4 phillips screws per and they've been there for over 40yrs! I took them off for a topside buffing years ago and put them right back the same way and no problems ever, it's just a little 16 foot pleasure boat though. Click to expand...

• Anchor & Dock
• Boat Fenders
• Fender Locks & Accessories

Sea-Dog Boat Rail Mount Cleat

Sea Dog Marine

• Low Price Guarantee
• Earn Captains Club Points Learn More
• Free Shipping over $99 Learn More

Frequently Bought Together

Total Price:

Please choose options for all selected products

• This Item: Sea-Dog Boat Rail Mount Cleat $10.99 $8.99 $2.00 2 10.99
• Description
• Questions & Answers

Sea-Dog Rail Mount Cleat

• Injection Molded Nylon/Stainless
• Includes a 043340 Heavy Duty Black Nylon Cleat
• Easy attachment of fender, flag halyards, canvas tie downs and related accessories.
• Mounts on 7/8" to 1" tubing

	4-5/16"	7/8" - 1"

Other Details

Product Reviews

Questions & answers, subscribe to our newsletter.

Get the latest updates on new products and upcoming sales

Oops, something went wrong. Please try again.

You are now logged in!

• Forums New posts Unanswered threads Register Top Posts Email
• What's new New posts New Posts (legacy) Latest activity New media
• Media New media New comments
• Boat Info Downloads Weekly Quiz Topic FAQ 10000boatnames.com
• Classifieds Sell Your Boat Used Gear for Sale
• Parts General Marine Parts Hunter Beneteau Catalina MacGregor Oday
• Help Terms of Use Monday Mail Subscribe Monday Mail Unsubscribe

Mid-Ship Cleat

• Thread starter asalotto
• Start date Sep 6, 2020
• Forums for All Owners
• Cruising Sailors

Hi all, Long-time sailor, but new to cruising and cruising boats (new to inboards, slips, etc.). I'm considering the purchase of a Catalina 315. It does not come with a mid-ship cleat. I can add one, but I'm told it may interfere with safe travel from stern to bow and back. Is it worth it? I'll be doing a lot of solo sailing, and I'm concerned about coming into a slip without one. I'm also wondering why Catalina doesn't have it standard, as they do on the larger models. Advice would be appreciated. Thanks, Anthony  

I believe for a smaller boat it may not be necessary. However it would be nice when docking. We always throw the midship line to the dock first. It is also a convenient place to tie the spring lines to as well. Just my thoughts. 31 Feet is not long and you can make it from one end to the other pretty quickly. May not be worth the trouble to install them. IMHO.  

Welcome to the forum!! A mid-ship cleat is useful when docking as you can motor up to a dock, attach a dock line to the mid-ship cleat, then loop a cleat on the dock, set the helm over and step off. The boat would sit quiet and secure while you casually set your fore and aft mooring and spring lines. That maneuver will impress your marina neighbors with your docking skills . That is how we always dock our sailboat.  

Cat 310 #1 in GA

We added the type that slides onto the Genoa track and usee it only for docking. Midship cleats are very useful for docking for sure. Otherwise we do not use it and only have one which we can move to whichever side we are docking.  

Different boat, but a PO installed mid-ship cleats on my O’Day 322. I am happy to have them, but I have stubbed my toe on them a few times. My Hunter 280 did not have mid-ship cleats, and I missed them. Greg  

Mid-ship cleats are also very handy for tying off a boom brake system or boom preventer when sailing downwind.  

Second Star has outboard genoa tracks that we never use when sailing, so we installed Schaeffer rail mount cleats and use them for docking and for spring lines. They work well and are out of the way, no stubbed toes. Garhauer also make rail cleats and I have used them on another boat, Schaffer's are just more attractive and a little more expensive.  

CS Johnson makes a mid ship cleat. I have the toe rail mounted version On port & starboard. Work great for docking Cleats : C.S. Johnson, Online Store  

Remember, Phil is coming up with a new toe rail cleat, even if fot Hunter rails. Might fit others. My B323 came with a fairlead opening in the side rails, but no cleat. I got 2 B OEM cleats like the bow and stern. It has been great- especially for spring lines, as my club does alot of rafting.  

I've have wooden toe rails on my '80 Tartan. One of the Tartan owners has installed this on his boat. https://www.spartanmarine.com/all-products/mid-rail-chock Me? I'm still chicken to cut up my toe rails.  

Our Hunter 30 has no midship cleat, but I tie off to the toe rail. That's what those holes are for. It works great. Ken  

Ken Cross said: Our Hunter 30 has no midship cleat, but I tie off to the toe rail. That's what those holes are for. It works great. Ken Click to expand

asalotto said: Hi all, Long-time sailor, but new to cruising and cruising boats (new to inboards, slips, etc.). I'm considering the purchase of a Catalina 315. It does not come with a mid-ship cleat. I can add one, but I'm told it may interfere with safe travel from stern to bow and back. Is it worth it? I'll be doing a lot of solo sailing, and I'm concerned about coming into a slip without one. I'm also wondering why Catalina doesn't have it standard, as they do on the larger models. Advice would be appreciated. Thanks, Anthony Click to expand

On our Catalina 30 we've been looping a dock line around the aft winch when docking and using that as you would a midship cleat. I'm not sure about the 315 but on our boat this slows us down and pulls us in with out issue, then we tie off on the bow and stern cleats.  

Thanks so much, everybody! I really appreciate the guidance. So, I'm likely buying the boat new from Catalina, and they will install mid-ship cleats for ~$500 extra as they build the boat. They won't cut the toe rail, but will raise the cleats above the rail. I asked Catalina about the toe rail options, and they said the toe rail is strong enough to get the boat safely against the dock, but not strong enough for long-term docking especially in any heavy-weather. I forgot to ask them about the jib track option. It seems to me, that for $500, it's a no brainer to have them install them - I can then use them for single-handed docking assistance, and for long-term spring line docking. Only downsides I've heard so far are are possible toe stubbing, and possible jib interference. I'm a bit worried about the jib interference. Any further thoughts on the prevalence of this?  

Duck21, to you ever find that the spring lines, run to the bow and stern cleats, rub against the boat while docked? Is this a concern?  

I made a rudimentary drawing of my normal docking configuration. I think the boat angle in my drawing may be a little exaggerated, but I typically dock with the bow pointed "in" to the channel to facilitate getting on/off the boat. I've never had an issue with the spring line rubbing--that may be mostly due to the mid-ship cleat on the dock being a little forward of the center of the boat. If I have a breeze from the stern the spring line pulls the boat in tight against the fenders before the line can rub on the boat. The only thing that's a little awkward is that the port side bow cleat has two lines--if you use larger dock lines you may not have quite enough room for both to attach. I don't remember sizing on the lines I use forward, but they both fit (even though it is a little tight).  

Attachments

Davidasailor26

DArcy said: I sailed on a First 40 that had these on the mid ship cleats. They did a good job keeping jib and spinnaker sheets from snagging. Click to expand

It looks like the 315's have a slotted toe rail, we loop a soft shackle on the rail midship and run a dockline to another cleat or winch.  

• This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register. By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. Accept Learn more…

Expedia Rewards is now One Key™

Elektrostal, visit elektrostal, check elektrostal hotel availability, popular places to visit.

• Electrostal History and Art Museum

You can spend time exploring the galleries in Electrostal History and Art Museum in Elektrostal. Take in the museums while you're in the area.

• Cities near Elektrostal

• Places of interest
• Yuri Gagarin Cosmonaut Training Center
• Central Museum of the Air Forces at Monino
• Peter the Great Military Academy
• Bykovo Manor
• Balashikha Arena
• Balashikha Museum of History and Local Lore
• Pekhorka Park
• Ramenskii History and Art Museum
• Orekhovo Zuevsky City Exhibition Hall
• Malenky Puppet Theater
• Noginsk Museum and Exhibition Center
• Saturn Stadium