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Compact wood stove engineered for heating boats, cabins, and RVs up to 40' in length.

sailboat wood stove

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Kimberly™ Wood Stove

The best tiny wood stove to heat your cabin, rv, tiny house, skoolie, or boat…, big heat from this tiny indoor wood burning stove, when longer burn times and closer clearances are essential.

sailboat wood stove

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Kimberly tiny wood stove in a tiny house

Kimberly™ In A Tiny House

COMMONLY USED TO HEAT: RV’s, 5th Wheels, Airstreams Tiny Houses & Small cabins Bus conversions

COOKTOP: Can easily reach 1000-1500° Fahrenheit. Use a trivet to keep your food from cooking too quickly!

ESTIMATED BTU’s: Up to 40,000

LOG SIZE: Can burn one log at a time up to 4-inches diameter, up to 9 inches in length depending on height of embers.

CLEARANCES: Rear: 12-inches measured from rear of stove or 6-inches measured from rear of pipe Sides: 6-inches Front: 18-inches

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Height : 25.5 inches (64.77 cm) Diameter : 10 inches (25.40 cm) Front Door Size : 4 inches x 9 inches (10.16 cm x 22.86 cm) Weight : 56 pounds (25.4 kg) Maximum Heat Output : Estimated 40,000 BTU’s/hour Size of Heated Area : up to 1500 square feet of well-insulated space Firebox Capacity : .2 cubic feet Firebox Size: 6 inches x 11 inches (15.24 cm x 27.94 cm) Maximum Log Length : 10 inches (25.40 cm) Maximum Log Diameter: 4 inches (10.16 cm) Flue Exit : Back exit only Provisions For Outside Air Intake Kit : Bottom of base or rear of base Estimated Efficiency : 68%

Be sure to check out our  Katydid ™ small wood burning stove and our Kri kit ™ wood burning stove if you have been shopping for a micro wood stove , cabin wood stoves for sale , a  small efficient wood stove,  or  the best small wood stove for a cabin . Krikit™ offers a bigger firebox and optional add-on shielding as alternative for RV wood stoves for sale . Katydid™ and Krikit™ offer bigger fireboxes as heating options when our Kimberly™ tiny wood stove is too small. 

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03-02-2017, 10:31  
Boat: Conyplex Contest 30
options, and am finding some really cool woodstoves popping up that are listed as being used in tiny homes and aboard .
We just bought a Contest 30 yacht, and live in Northern . I'm playing with the idea of getting a source to extend our sailing season, and we plan to at least for Summer and part of Fall.

My main questions:
Does anyone have experience with installing and living with a mini woodstove such as the following on a sailboat?




I also see the more standard bulkhead heaters are an option, but they're just no where near as cool looking!

What about ? Are companies open to stoves aboard? Will this create headaches in being able to get coverage?

Thanks in advance!
03-02-2017, 11:18  
Boat: Legend 37.5, 1968 Alcort Sunfish, Avon 310
and above , and you'd have to vent pretty high to avoid external heat damage.

Plus the mess of and ashes.
03-02-2017, 11:34  
Boat: Rafiki 37
heaters while on . I would seriously consider one when/if I decide to mount a permanent one.

My concerns would be soot from , and carrying the . I think both are solvable. And on the positive side, is free if you’re travelling in areas.
03-02-2017, 11:35  
Boat: Wheeler Shipyard 83' ex USCG
can be safely installed in a . I and heated with wood for 2 years. PO also heated with wood a couple years. The big issue for me is hauling and storing enough wood. Also, it seems it's either too hot or too cold in the . It took about 6 arm loads of wood per 24 hour day to heat in cold . 2 cords a month in really cold . I went to a small pellet and at most 2 40# bags a day.
With a small stove, and small wood, you'll have short burn times. It won't burn overnight. Coal, if available would be a better fuel for long burns. A stove or is the easiest, fuel is already on board, etc.
03-02-2017, 11:36  
Boat: Under construction 35' ketch (and +3 smaller)
for ages in boats. Just do the properly and you are good
03-02-2017, 11:45  
Boat: Conyplex Contest 30
03-02-2017, 12:02  
Boat: Sayer 46' Solent rig sloop
. Policies vary a lot!

Ann
03-02-2017, 12:03  
Boat: Colvin, Saugeen Witch (Aluminum), 34'
furnace for the following reasons: The Diesel furnace is much lighter and takes up much less space. The wood stove was messy down below. Wood takes time to light and needs frequent stoking as the wood pieces are very small. Wood fuel is bulky (and messy). Dry wood may be difficult to find in the area where I plan on going (Alaska).

Steve
03-02-2017, 12:15  
Boat: Truant Triad 37 Cutter-Alaska, Leopard 40 Cat, Bahamas
, etc. so no worry about bugs in that case.

I like the warm nice heat and the cheery glow, plus the smell. If the wood is dry, it won't smoke much at all. If it's damp, totally different story.

So, in it gets a pretty big thumbs up. I would think would be similar if not many times colder, as it is mostly pretty moderate here.
03-02-2017, 12:18  
, very hard to accomplish. Nearly impossible if you are using coal or charcoal.
-Messy... as noted above.
-spark damage.
-carbon monoxide poisoning (not easy to put the fire out, time for , you are tired, fall asleep with closed.) - Elmore Leonard








03-02-2017, 17:38  
Boat: Cape George 31
winters with it. It is without question the best way to heat a boat. On our 31' boat the heat was so efficient that with the sea freezing solid outside we could keep a porthole open--nothing like fresh air AND being warm. It also keeps things good and dry, and if you're under a shrink wrap canopy, does pretty well at keeping the canopy dry. On the coldest , I burned a little less than half a cord.
If I could do it again, I'd get the Hobbit stove--that glass door is pretty awesome.
You must install thoughtfully, and with plenty of shielding. The deck iron by the Sardine people is very good. The higher you can get your chimney pipe above the deck the better. I have a removable section so it can all get smaller while sailing.
If you plan to burn coal, you may have to get a stove specially designed for that--I couldn't get the sardine hot enough to ignite coal, and in a 30' boat, I doubt you'd want that much heat.
Some pics on my website: zartmancruising.com
Best,
Ben
03-02-2017, 17:59  
is the easiest, fuel is already on board, etc.
03-02-2017, 18:51  
Boat: 53' Skookum pilothouse cutter
in Duluth. We loved it. We burned hard wood and small coal chunks. The stove has a coal grate. Coal will burn out a typical wood stove grate. We did not live aboard but did stay on the boat when it was pulled for the . It was on a copper lined shelf. Did not have a bulkhead heat shield but should. deck iron is the only way to go. We would love one on our boat but can not figure where to put it. Nothing better than dry wood heat on a boat.
03-02-2017, 18:53  
Boat: Building a Max Cruise 44 hybrid electric cat


Love the look of this stove, but it seems the may have gone up - Youtube Vlog -
03-02-2017, 19:11  
Boat: C&L Sea Ranger 36, Columbia Payne 9.6
. I had a Cozy heater on my last one.

I prefer the solid fuel Ratelco because it allows me to have a separate cache of fuel for it, so I never worry about using up my primary source. I actually rarely used the heater for this reason, because I didn't want to use my fuel on heating.

I also like the ambiance/novelty of the solid fuel stove, and that I'll be able to forage for fuel on my own. With all that said, I have not used it in off-the-grid situations so we'll see if I'm still singing it's praises when that time comes.

I haven't had experience with other heater types so cannot comment.
 
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Nomadic Research Labs

Once the overall scheme was signed off by all, it was time to start with the surgery. Any sailor knows the trauma of adding a new hole to the boat, even above waterline… and this one was a doozy: a very large opening in .2″ steel topped with Treadmaster, backed with a very dense .75″ marine ply, and blocked for the extricated pole amidst an expanse of foam insulation filling a grid of steel ribs. After much head-scratching and calling out reference marks ‘twixt deck and pilothouse, we punched a pilot hole, then broke out the jigsaw. Here, Andrew’s assistant Jeff from Indian Summer II is carefully slurping up any remaining steel bits to prevent future rust spots…

sailboat wood stove

The guys headed back to the shop to conjure a few parts, including a trim ring that compensates for the 5° camber of the deck and supports the beautiful cast bronze deck iron . This was all bedded in place using screws for clamping pressure, prompting the first of many comments that it looks like it was meant to be that way.  (2012 update: I later had serious leak problems because the Treadmaster was not cut back far enough to allow a fillet of sealant… and various sealing problems developed including failure of the primer-Dolphinite interface and a crack in the trim ring from too much screw tension on the curved deck surface. I finally pulled the ring, which popped off with no effort, gave it a proper coat of wood sealer followed by Brightside polyurethane, then bedded it with 4200 after cleaning the old residue) :

sailboat wood stove

This made for a nicely finished exterior appearance, but from below we could still see the wood “underlayment” – meaning that it would be exposed to radiant heat as well. The hole had been lined with copper sheeting as a first step:

sailboat wood stove

In a flash of inspiration, Andrew conjured a pair of aluminum components that would further reflect heat while allowing cooling airflow. It also prompted one of many amusing photographic moments, given all the awkward angles necessary when working on a boat…

sailboat wood stove

With the hole prepped, it was time to get the stove mounted. They used the cannibalized wood from the original pole to frame out the plywood wall at the end of the galley counter, allowing a clever hack in which a routed channel created clearance for a row of 1/4-20 T-nuts. The whole assembly is thus removable without dragging out the refrigerator that’s on the other side of that wall… a process that is complicated further by having to remove the foot pumps under the galley sink to provide enough fridge-movement clearance to get an arm into the cavity. Boats are for contortionists, something I am most emphatically not .

When the shelf was installed, Andrew immediately insisted that I park on it to convince myself that it is sufficiently robust…

sailboat wood stove

With that test passed, he added a stainless heatshield to protect the wood… and then the stove was centered and bolted to the shelf, its tripod legs insuring that no amount of heat-induced casting warpage would cause rocking. A few leveling washers induced general positioning consensus, then it was down to the final steps.

Pipefitting is something of an art, it turns out, and I was surprised at how fiddly this part was… but patience and collective insistence on perfection eventually yielded a smooth and well-considered run. Here we are eyeballin’ and tweakin’…

sailboat wood stove

Now you can see the final configuration of the deck-iron interface, with the heat shield spaced away from the headliner giving a strong sense of the etymology of stove-pipe hat :

sailboat wood stove

Topside, we have a couple of operational choices. The smoke head can be plugged directly into the deck iron for a low-profile look like this:

sailboat wood stove

Or, as is the case at the moment in the oppressive wind and rain of an incoming cold front, we can insert a 2-foot pipe section to improve draft and disperse the startup smoke above the level of the dodger:

sailboat wood stove

And it’s done! With the pipe all fitted and already showing a patina from the test-firing, here are three views of the finished Little Cod installation on Nomadness . From the passage to the aft cabin:

sailboat wood stove

Lying on the sole looking up (with the draft damper visible in the angled section):

sailboat wood stove

And from the center of the pilothouse, showing the loading door on the end:

sailboat wood stove

And, you see those little holes on the front corners of the top shelf surface? One of the major issues here is safety — not just keeping skin off the dangerously hot stove pipe, but keeping fast-moving knees off the sharp shelf corners, one hand attached to a handhold at all times whilst bounding along in a seaway, and careening bodies off the stove itself. Removing the original pole, which was necessary to allow pipe to pass through the deck in the only available location, complicated the problem; it’s a large enough cabin that one could get thrown off-balance easily without something solid to hold on to at every stage of a traverse from one point to another.

I have added a few more strategically-placed handholds around the boat, but the central fixture is a sort of “caging” of the stove made with 7/8″ stainless rail and Sea Dog stainless fittings .

The other huge issue, actually the biggest trade-off of this whole project, was the impact on engine and generator access. Massive sole panels have always lifted to the 90° position and locked in place with springs, but now they only make it to 60° and have to be held up manually… obviously inadequate, although the most-frequently serviced bits are still easy to reach (Racors, tank-selection valves, oil filters and dipsticks, the sticky shutoff rail on the injector pump that needs an occasional tickle, coolant caps, and so on). The raw-water impeller on the main engine, already a major pain to change, is now more so, and I shudder to think of having to change out the starter with this reduced clearance.

We’ll immediately fashion a couple of latches to support the access panels from the stove shelf, but if serious surgery is necessary, it will be necessary to unscrew the hinges and lift the units completely out (removing the stove as well if major gymnastics are going to be involved). Fortunately, it’s all serviceable by design.

Other than that detail, I am thoroughly delighted with this new life-support component in the technomadic escape pod. An efficient heat source is now readily harvestable, and even a small fire renders the cabin cozy without the Webasto roar or the shore-power requirements of an electric heater. And to anyone who Googled their way to this page whilst contemplating a stove for their boat… I can warmly recommend Andrew and his products. He exudes an old-fashioned sense of quality craftsmanship rarely seen these days, and this little stove of time-tested design is clearly going to outlast the captain of the ship.

sailboat wood stove

Updates…

First, in the accessories department, a woodstove thermometer is essential. I use the Rutland one, which I got on Amazon, and it works well (though the Inferno is now getting better reviews):

sailboat wood stove

Second, I finally got around to building the safety cage around the stove, and it has been a surprisingly pleasant addition to the boat… actually better than the post that had to be removed for the installation. I used standard 7/8″ stainless rail and fittings (I bought mine from Defender).

Third, it’s pretty easy to light with the normal methods (paper and little scraps of kindling), but if you want an effective shortcut, try these little fire-starters. Actually, I usually make my own with sawdust and melted wax, poured into egg cartons… but that’s a messy job and kind of a nuisance. The commercial ones work great, store forever, and save a lot of fiddling. The ones at that link should be broken into quarters, good for 144 fires.

The heavy stainless shelf took threads nicely, and where the angled braces meet the thinner heat shield they are bolted deeply into the supporting structure. I haven’t tested it with airborne body weight yet (and hope never to!) but it easily handles the dynamic loads of rough conditions and grabbing it hard to prevent a fall. The height was optimized for leaning, and the top rail will get decorative hitching some rainy night.

sailboat wood stove

The latest additions (2012) are a Caframo Ecofan  and a window! The fan is not as hearty an air-mover as a dedicated DC one, but who wants to cable and listen to another motor? This uses a thermoelectric element to generate power from the difference between the hot base and the relatively cool fins, and does a nice job of gently moving air across the stove and distributing it around a small boat cabin. I had considered mounting mine to one of the disks (with high-temp adhesive, given the enamel), but thought better of it… that’s precious horizontal surface most of the time and the fan lives in a foam nest off-season or underway.

As to the glass window… Andrew now offers a glass-front option when you buy one of these, but quoted me $400 for a retrofit. As much as I wanted one, that was a bit too rich on my current budget for a purely aesthetic item. This launched me on a lengthy quest, culminating at last in a source for custom pyroceramic shapes (not glass) that can take about 1300° F continuous and 10% overtemp for a short time… a healthy margin of error for a wood stove that will probably never see more than 750° F for more than a few YIKES moments as you frantically reduce the draft. It also survives thermal shock very well; here’s mine along with the Caframo fan:

sailboat wood stove

It casts a beautiful warm light around the cabin, reflecting nicely off the overhead, and it’s great to see the fire without having to open the door!  I still think it would be better to get the glass front option at the time you buy a new stove, but if you already have a Sardine , Little Cod , or Halibut … you can buy a piece of 3/16″ Neoceram, 6″ diameter, with pencil-grind edges from One Day Glass . (I was reselling them for a while, but don’t really need to be in the loop… gotta choose my battles!) It will pick up soot from the flames, but is easy to clean; just use a wad of wet newspaper and some of the ash from the firebox.

Follow-up (2013) note on fuel

When I had a domestic woodstove, I avoided burning driftwood because of the salt content… mixed with sticky creosote, it leaves a hygroscopic layer that absorbs moisture year-round and can quickly destroy cast iron or non-stainless stovepipe. Since this stove is enameled inside and out, I have not worried too much about that, though it is still not ideal.

Researching this recently for a discussion thread on Facebook, I turned up an interesting article (no longer online) from a chimney sweeping expert that advises against using one of my favorite fuels… mill ends. Clean, dry, neat-stacking, and often free, these cut-off chunks of dimensional lumber are really tempting, though I have noticed that they usually burn insanely hot. Now I know why (and they have other dangers as well, including salt and some nasty chemical).

Also, this classic book is worth having in your library: The Woodburner’s Encyclopedia (1976), usually pretty cheap on Amazon.

2017 Footnote

I sold the lovely Nomadness in 2016, and happily, the Little Cod did not fit the new owner’s cruising plans. I’m now installing it in a project shed near my new mobile digitizing lab, having swallowed the anchor.

Cheers, and stay warm! -Steve

29 Comments

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damn, you cold water, monohull guys really DO like all the comforts of home :-)LOLOL!

OMG. I have become a monohull guy, haven’t I? Never saw that coming.

You may want to have someone who does fuel polishing to come and do a cleaning on your tanks. They treat your remaining fuel with biocide and cleaners and then pipe the fuel through filters to remove the gunk in the tank as well as the algae.

Then a treatment with biocide after that will keep the growth at bay.

Stumblingthunder

Sumblingthunder – yes, I am looking into that. Actually, I can polish onboard (two Racors and a system of valves with a transfer pump lets me move fuel among tanks, or even pickup in one and return to another while the engine is running), and I have been using biocide with the new stuff (the clean aft tank, which I just refilled yesterday). But that’s not as good as a proper tank cleaning… the question is whether or not such an extreme and expensive operation is necessary. I don’t want to wait to find out until the boat is getting thrashed in foul conditions, shaking it loose and clogging the filters…

Thanks for the comment!

Well its been a little over a month, hows the stove working out? Im looking into one for next year, and my biggest concern is that it can hold a fire overnight. Fatsco makes a tiny tot coal stove that I read an article on Good Old Boat that says it can be banked and they still have hot coals in the morning… whats your experience?

thanks deryk

Hi Deryk…

I haven’t yet tried a full overnight load… now doing the winter-moorage dance, making weekly trips to work on projects. The fires have been wonderful and the boat cozy… and it’s a great little incinerator. I’ll post when I have done some proper survival-heating!

Cheers, Steve

Just a thought that occurred regarding access below the stove. Would it work to cut that panel in half, then use a piano hinge on top to put it back together? That would allow you to fold it over itself, then open and should minimize your clearance issues. It should also be strong and fairly inobtrusive. I have brought brass hinge at Home Depot before at a reasonable price. Hope it works better than having to remove the hinges. Best of luck.

Lauren Neher

A few months have passed now, and there have been enough firings for me to have a better sense of performance. The other night it was subfreezing in the harbor, and I kept the stove going at about 450 degrees surface temp all evening. At bedtime, I stoked it full and minimized both intake and stack flow… 8 hours later when I stumbled to the galley for coffee, it was still too hot to rest my hand on (though I did not try to fire it up without kindling, as it was getting sunny).

In short, it works beautifully!

Hello, Just curious what kind of stove pipe you used? I am only finding 4 inch pipe that is for HVAC, and not for wood burning units. Thanks, Jon

Jon – I used the pipe provided by the Marinestove folks; here is the accessories page that details the pipe, shielding, bends, smoke heads, and related parts.

Cheers, and stay warm! Steve

Glad to see that your install is evolving to suit your needs. Its that element of customization that our spirited customers bring to their particular application which gives me an added boost in the shop every day. Did I mention Idaho Energy Logs to you for super long burn times? A Codger (someone who uses a Little Cod) down at Fisheries Supply in Seattle has reported incredible burn times. I need to try them. When we get into these long burn times it becomes all the more important that everyone heed the smoke/co2 alarm install recommendation. As you have witnessed boats can be tricky with air/chimney flow dynamics. Dorade vents and the like can throw a monkey wrench into the mix. Hence important to have an audible alarm alerting you to a drastic negative change in your flow dynamics. Topic shift. What do you do for hot water ? Any novel designs lurking for integrating the stove into the mix. Folks ask us from time to time and it would be a great option to be able to offer them.

Look forward to your Springtime assessment of life aboard with COD.

Cheers, Andrew / NSW

HI Andrew – great to hear from you! We just had our first burn of the season the other night, and it was quite pleasant to feel that pervasive warmth (so much nicer than the other heat sources aboard).

We picked up some very dense manufactured logs; don't know if they are Idaho. I will try them and let you know my impressions.

Thanks for the reminder on the smoke/CO2 sensors – that is in the plan for the shipnet, but I will get the hardware aboard now. Know of a combined model that is low power?

Hot water: I got rid of the demand water heater that came with the boat, installed with such a short stack that it didn't draft properly and spewed humidity/CO into the cabin. Aboard now is an Isotherm, which uses either AC (700W, well within Inverter range) or engine coolant loop. I don't have much experience with it yet, but would enjoy playing with a preheater coupled to the Cod.

Your stove always elicits admiring comments from visitors, even when just sitting there cold. I'm happy to have it aboard.

Cheers! Steve

Great job Steve! Great stove!.I am an Italian liveaboard, for 4 years in Venice (freezing cold and humid in winter) and always heating my days and night with an old wood burning stove. It makes the difference aboard. All my best and sincere compliments for your useful blog I am definitely linking your blog to mine. I row and sail to protect the water and invite people to a sustainable way of travelling and living.

Giacomo – Grazie mille!

Thank you Steve. E' un mio piacere.

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I’m building a 200 sf meditation cabin on land, adobe brick. I live in northern New Mexico where worst winter temps rarely go below 0 degrees F. Will the Little Cod heat it adequately? I genuinely hope so, because I’d love to make this work out. I’m interested in the model that is red and has the glass fire door. Should we talk? Bob

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Bob – I certainly think that it would work just fine in that space. The person you should contact is not me, however, but Andrew … the builder of the stoves. Sounds like a great application, and the red would be gorgeous.

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How is the draft working on your little cod? I was considering going with a 4″ to 5″ adapter for a wider draft. Do you find the 4″ sufficient? Will it get a decent draft even when the setup is in “low profile” (minus the exterior chimney addition) mode?

Just want to know before I finalize my install plans, thanks!

Eric – I have never had any issues related to inadequate draft (if anything, it can be a little hard to turn down if you get it too fired up!). For this size box, I don’t see any advantage to expanding to a 5″ pipe… that’s getting into home-scale stove territory. As to the “low profile” mode, I have not experimented with that enough to answer you. I should! That is certainly how I would like it to be set up if I were in the mode of sailing/anchoring through winter months.

Cheers and stay warm! Steve

Well if you do get around to trying it, do let me know. I would much prefer to have it set up that way then have a tall chimney pipe sticking out.

I have no doubt we will both be quite warm this season 🙂

One last question actually. Do you know where they got the spacer hardware that got your pipe through the roof? I have been having a hard time finding one that will connect to 4″ pipe.

Thanks again!

Eric – you mean the deck iron? That is what the pipe connects to; no intermediate hardware. The heat-reflecting disc and hole liner were fabricated…

You can get the deck irons for 3″ or 4″ pipe from Andrew.

http://marinestove.com/Accessories.htm

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It is a lovely looking stove! How is it working out, say when you’re away from civilization and other heating sources and the temperature is below freezing? Pros and cons?

Does it get much untidy in the cabin from handling and stacking the wood, or coal?

I am surprised it could still be warm after 8 hours. We have a stove in the kitchen of our house, and the wood burns down very quickly, I’d say less than 2 hours, and in the morning it’s chill.

Does the boat get dirty on the outside from the smoke?

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I just fell in love with the neoceram/pyroceram window concept! We’ve got a Little Cod manufactured by the Enterprise-Fawcett foundry located in Sackville, NB, and instead of two round ports on the top surface its got one large rectangular port (the stove also came with a rectangular grilling rack that can be put in place of the solid rectangular port). I’m going to look into the possibility of getting a piece of neoceram cut to fit in place of the cast iron port but before I do I’d love to know more about your experience with your round pyroceram window. I think I’d personally go the neoceram route given the fact its used for cooktops and looks to be able to take more of a beating than pyroceram, a factor given the large area of our rectangular opening.

So, how’s your’s working out and what thickness of material did you go with (I’m assuming 3/16″)?

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NICE JOB, looking at your page for ideas for an install like this for an airstream trailer, this is great!

Hi Johan, and sorry I took so long to reply! Just got through another winter…

I have been lazily using other heat sources at the dock (mostly), so I can’t report much on day-to-day operation over an extended period. From my casual use, however, I can make a few observations:

Untidy in the cabin: yes. Wood storage is kind of a nuisance, and makes me wish I had more stowage space. Mill ends are neat, but I believe I linked above to an article about their hazards (dang); harvested firewood will need to be mostly kept in a covered place outside with just the current inventory in the cabin.

Below freezing use: no problem. My boat is 44′ and this heats well.

Warm after 8 hours: not in my experience… I am willing to believe that it might be possible with practice, however, though that is pushing it (from my years with daily use of other wood stoves).

Dirty outside: I have not had a problem with that. The smoke head is on the extension pipe, and I tie the boom off to the other side.

Hello, Kai…

Glad you like the window idea! I did in fact go with neoceram… a 6-inch disc, 3/16″ thick. My only issue has been that with cooler/casual/decorative fires instead of serious hot ones, it blackens with soot. Fortunately, that is easy to clean… no need to buy the special stuff that is available; just use a crumpled wad of newspaper, moisten it, pick up some of the ash in the bottom of the stove, and give it a quick scrub followed by a wipedown with a paper towel.

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Hi, I am interested in installing the “sardine” model wood stove in my first boat (Fisher37). I am concerned about sparks exiting from the chimney and setting my neighbours’ (or my own) sails on fire. Does the spark arrestor (smoke head) completely stop sparks or do you have to be very selective about your solid fuel. Cheers, Glenn

HI Glenn – I have never seen any issues with that except for a little sparkly feistiness during startup (but nothing that would be able to ignite nearby fuels). The Sardine is a sweet unit!

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  Homemade Wood Stove For a Small Boat
6 inches wide by 6 inches high (excluding feet) by 8 inches deep

Out here on the 'Wet' Coast, specifically in the Lower Mainland of British Columbia, keeping the cabin of your boat warm and toasty makes for a better boating experience. A wood stove is a great solution, but marine wood stoves are costly. The smallest ones available are still too large for the sixteen-foot sailing barge I intend to build (my own design) shown below.

The smallest ones available are still too large for the sixteen-foot sailing barge I intend to build.

So as a warm up to building the boat itself, I decided to make the wood stove first. A pretty extensive search online yielded few results or examples of anyone making their own small solid fuel heater for a boat, so I decided that I would document the construction of mine for the sake of interest.

However, this is not a building plan or instructions to construct this stove. I assume no liability whatsoever for anyone copying this design, or even being remotely inspired to do something similar.

Having said that, here's how I went about making this stove: The main body of the stove is a piece of mild steel box section, 3/8 inch thickness and six inches by six inches by seven inches long. I was able to find it at a local machine shop in their scrap bin. The ends were already square and just need a little dressing with a file.

The main body of the stove is a piece of mild steel box section, 3/8 inch thickness and six inches by six inches by seven inches long.

I chained drilled (more on that later) a round hole to accept a muffler fitting and finished the hole well enough to basically tap the fitting in tightly from the inside, and secured it with nail after drilling a hole to accept it. I made three feet with carriage bolts and black iron plumbing fittings. The stove will be bolted down so I figured three feet were enough, and with the single foot at the front, it will be easier to sweep and clean under the stove.

Next I made the back of the stove with a six inch by six inch piece of ¼ inch mild steel plate, and drilled and tapped to accept 10-32 machine screws to bolt it on. Before doing so, I smeared on copious amounts of stove cement to seal it.

Next I made the back of the stove with a six inch by six inch piece of ¼ inch mild steel plate, and drilled and tapped to accept 10-32 machine screws to bolt it on.

I dressed everything up with a file after assembly.

The front was made much the same way, but I used countersunk 6-32 screws, and prior to installation I cut out the opening for the door.

The front was made much the same way, but I used countersunk 6-32 screws, and prior to installation I cut out the opening for the door.

The above photo shows how I cut the holes by chain drilling. The secret is to drill each hole slightly overlapping the last. If you drill too closely however, the drill point slides off into the previous hole. When this happened I flipped the piece over and came in from the other side. I used the lowest speed on the drill press and kept the belt loose enough that I could stop the chuck with my hand. This allowed me to drill without clamping thereby speeding up the process. If the bit grabbed, the drill would stall rather than spinning the piece like a whirling scimitar. There is no guarantee the belt on any drill press will slip when you want it to. So if you are going to do what I did at least wear heavy gloves and in any and every case, safety glasses. Like my Dad used to say, "do what I say, not what I do" so folks I'm making no recommendation here. My advice is, always clamp your work and keep your hands clear.

Once the piece was cut out, I put it in the vice and filed the edges to my scribed lines with a bastard.

Once the piece was cut out, I put it in the vice and filed the edges to my scribed lines with a bastard.

Here you can see the draft control I made. The knob on the left is made of a piece of brass drilled and tapped to accept a 6-32 screw which is installed in a countersunk hole from the back of the piece so it can slide across the front easily. The right knob is drilled and tapped for a 10-32 screw that protrudes from the inside of the stove though a tapped hole. To adjust the draft I loosen the right knob and move the control to the desired position, and then tighten.

The most time consuming of the whole project was making the door. I wanted a window so I could see the cheery flame and avoid suicidal thoughts when it is raining. I was able to source a piece of stove glass quite cheaply from the local glass supplier - enough to make a few spares. The glass is very expensive otherwise - about $90 a square foot, but they had a scrap piece they couldn't use and let me have it for $10.

I was able to source a piece of stove glass quite cheaply from the local glass supplier - enough to make a few spares.

I made a frame from mild steel the same thickness as the glass, and sandwiched it between an inside frame, and the door itself (see test result at the end of the article). The door is larger than the stove opening by ½ inch all around. The glass frame, and rear frame are the same size as the stove opening. The openings in the door and the rear frame are slightly smaller (about 1/8 inch all around) than the glass itself. The rear frame is drilled and tapped to accept 6-32 screws, and the door and glass frame were drilled larger so the screw threads cleared. Before assembly I smeared it all up with stove cement.

If you are wondering what those three things are on the door they are clamps called clecoes. They are really handy for this sort of work.

If you are wondering what those three things are on the door they are clamps called clecoes. They are really handy for this sort of work.
I found this brass fork at the local Salvation Army thrift store for two bucks.

Nothing dresses up a stove like this more than some brass trim. I found this brass fork at the local Salvation Army thrift store for two bucks. I sawed the end off and mounted like a grill over the window - kind of a Poseidon's trident. I figured it would make it a little more nautical.

The hinge is a plain old door hinge, cut and shaped. I shimmed it so that it would make the door fit nicely with the gasket thickness taken into account.

The hinge is a plain old door hinge, cut and shaped. I shimmed it so that it would make the door fit nicely with the gasket thickness taken into account.

I used an anchor nut locked even tighter with a castle nut as a latch.

I used an anchor nut locked even tighter with a castle nut as a latch. A decorative brass handle made from another thrift store find is on the other end of the bolt. The gasket is glued on with a special wood stove gasket glue that is clear and looks like model cement. I painted the stove with flat black Tremclad high temperature paint.

Once the fire was going I threw in a dozen charcoal briquettes and closed the door. I left the draft control full open. The stove threw heat for a good six hours before I went to bed.

The stove would not operate correctly the first time because I ran it without a chimney. Also, the heat from that first trial cracked the glass. When I dis-assembled the door I realized that the tight frame around the glass, along with it all being cemented together caused stresses resulting in the fracture.

I cut a new glass, but installed it without the middle frame, instead using gasket material around the glass. I did not use cement either. Before firing the stove I used a propane torch to heat the whole thing up and see if it would crack again and it did not.

I put on a piece of muffler pipe as a chimney and built a fire with some dry wood. Once the fire was going I threw in a dozen charcoal briquettes and closed the door. I left the draft control full open. The stove threw heat for a good six hours before I went to bed. I don't know how long it burned after that, but I'm very happy with the result. We should be very comfortable in our little boat.

Alan Jones swarfmakeratshawdotca

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New Liveaboard: Need advice on fuel/starting my wood stove

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New liveaboard on my O'Day 27. I have a small Cole 1655 wood stove installed, but am not the best at starting it and keeping it going for heat. First thing, it is installed properly and I have fire extinguishers + CO detectors installed. The previous owner gave me a bag of coal that he said he liked to use. I was thinking of getting wood pellets and trying those. Does anyone have advice on the ideal fuel to run for 4-5 hours at night to heat up the boat? Also, what is the best option for getting the fire started? I know the basics and can start a fire, but interested in advice if anyone has perfected a method or has some tips. Appreciate the help!  

sailboat wood stove

Be careful with the coal, I am not sure that a Coleman stove would have been designed for that kind of heat. I'm not saying don't use it, I'm just saying be very careful. I would think your best option for fuel would be very dry split hardwood. Pellets might be a pain if the stove isn't designed for it. A standard household pellet stove feeds the stove with an auger. I have read about pellet conversions for regular wood stoves (almost like a steel basket) but I have no experience with them. I'm not sure about lighting it. Lighting small wood stoves can be a pain.  

sailboat wood stove

Arcb said: Be careful with the coal, I am not sure that a Coleman stove would have been designed for that kind of heat. Click to expand...

sailboat wood stove

I use "Fatwood" sticks to start 18 inch split logs, they are available in hardware and grocery stores usually.  

This might help. The ratelco model 1655 cole stove - ASTROPHEL I heat with wood at home which is obviously different then your stove. Dry wood is significantly easier and more efficient to deal with. I also find dry pine cones work great to quickly start a fire. Hardwoods are best. My question would be is this a coal stove or a wood stove. There is usually a large difference in operating procedures.  

Fireplace logs (not presto) chopped into 3"?? lengths start easily and burn long . Too much wax to be the main fuel. Dry fir bark is the best I just walk along the tree line at a secluded beach with a gunny sack but you might not be so well located. A skill saw makes little pieces out of a hardwood pallet dragged back down the dock .If you scounge , watch out for pressure treated stuff ,not good.  

sailboat wood stove

Coal is a lot tougher to run than wood... Plus the CO hazard is waaaay higher using coal. If the stove is set up for coal, it will have a "shaker grate" as coal "clinkers up" and does not burn well in a thick bed of ash (unlike wood). Do not use "presto-logs" or softwood (pine) wood in your stove. High levels of creosote can lead to chimney fires and other unpleasant things. Wood pellets generally require a stove designed for same. Air dryed hardwood is best, split oak, maple, hickory, etc depending on your local. Unless you know someone with a woodlot, its gonna be tough to purchase a small quantity other than those grocery store, big box bundles which will drive you poor quick. Wooden shipping pallets are usually oak or other hardwoods, and make good fuel. Make friends with the local cabinet shop or millworks and dispose of their hardwood scraps. When starting your stove cold, hold a burning twist of newspaper up the Charlie Noble (smokestack) to get the draft started. Will keep smoke out the cabin, and help the stove to draw while it starts. Wood heats you twice... Once burning, once collecting  

sailboat wood stove

Coal has definite benefits, like high BTU value, lasts longer, less ash (with good coal), less sparks flying out of the chimney, does not get damp from the air, etc. but you first have to get the fire going strong with wood and then add coal in small doses. Coal fire smells bad, is a higher carbon monoxide risk, and runs very hot possibly burning out your stove. The stove has to be rated for burning coal, or you will likely damage it.  

sailboat wood stove

fr500c said: New liveaboard on my O'Day 27. I have a small Cole 1655 wood stove installed, but am not the best at starting it and keeping it going for heat. First thing, it is installed properly and I have fire extinguishers + CO detectors installed. The previous owner gave me a bag of coal that he said he liked to use. I was thinking of getting wood pellets and trying those. Does anyone have advice on the ideal fuel to run for 4-5 hours at night to heat up the boat? Also, what is the best option for getting the fire started? I know the basics and can start a fire, but interested in advice if anyone has perfected a method or has some tips. Appreciate the help! Click to expand...

sailboat wood stove

There shouldn't be any problem with CO2 omissions because you have the chimney and you should have an air intake so it won't take any of the cabin air and burn that. I heat with wood and I live it a space the size of a boat. I've been doing it for three years. The thing is that if you don't have makeup air going to the stove it will suck it in from any crack in the house anyway. I leave mine burning throughout the night. Mine is very small. The most it can fit are three medium size pieces of wood. However I don't want it to rage all night anyway or else it would cook me out in the loft. Gets way too hot then to sleep up there. Love that stove you've got there.  

sailboat wood stove

If you can find a source of left over construction timber, that is the cheapest supply of kindling, get a nice wood fire burning, hardwood lasts a lot longer than softwoods ( birch, maple, hickory, etc) Just before you turn in you bank your stove. Pile your wood ashes on one side and throw in some coal on the opposite side with the bottom of both piles touching. The coal will catch at the bottom and slowly burn up the pile. Grew up with a coal furnace, loved the heat !!!!  

I know sailboaters are cheapskates, but how about installing a small, gas-log fireplace on the boat, one that runs on propane and is thermostatically controlled. A 20-pound bottle of propane would last a long time when used to heat a sailboat cabin, no CO to worry about, and because most of the sailboats I've seen have lots of air leaks, probably wouldn't have to worry about the stove burning up all the O2 inside the cabin. I have a large one in my basement family room, it is 100-percent efficient, no chimney involved and fairly miserly on propane consumption. Puts out a huge amount of heat. Take a look at Mr. Heater Big Buddy LP Portable Heater MH18B - For Life Out Here Gary  

What Cap-C said, especially about pre-heating the flue to get a good draw. With any wood fire, the whole trick to getting it started is some patience and paying attention to what you are doing. I've won a number of "Oh you can't start that with one match" bets over the years, because all it ever takes is carefully building from light tinder to heavier stuff. One match lights the tinder (which can be wood shavings, shredder paper, crumpled newspaper, clothes-drier lint...) which lights the heavier kindling which lights the big stuff. And if you are using logs of any kind, take the time to split (quarter) them, because the inside will be nice and dry even when the outside has gotten wet. A little patience, a little practice. And if all else fails, find a Scout troop and take hostages.(G)  

The wood stoves I make are air tight and adjustable. will make charcoal or just shut down if closed. The danger is making CO so you have to think a bit. ...about air in and air out and positive/negative pressures caused by wind passing by. Missing this may be reason enough to not wake up  

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Stay Warm on the Water: The Best Wood-Burning Stoves for Boats and Barges

Stay Warm on the Water: The Best Wood-Burning Stoves for Boats and Barges

If you're a boat or canal barge owner looking to stay warm and cosy on the water, a wood-burning stove can be a great option. In this guide, we'll explore the best wood-burning stoves designed for boats and canal barges, helping you make an informed decision and find the perfect log burner for your needs. Stay warm and enjoy the beauty of the water with these top recommendations and advice on the flue system you’ll need.

Why Choose a Wood Burner to Heat Your Boat or Barge? Factors to Consider When Selecting a Wood-Burning Stove Top Wood-Burning Stove Options for Boats and Barges Installation & Safety Tips for Wood Burners on Canal Boats Enjoying the Ambience of a Log Burner on Your Narrowboat

Why Choose a Wood Burner to Heat Your Boat or Barge?

There are several reasons why a wood-burning stove is a great choice for your boat or barge and here we’ll explain why they are such a superb heating option. Firstly, wood is a readily available and affordable fuel source, making it cost-effective compared to other heating options. Without a mains gas supply to your boat or barge a log burner can be a versatile addition as it will not only provide you with a sustainable heat source but there are models that come with an oven or cooktop for you to bake your favourite dishes. At the very least you’ll be able to warm a cast iron kettle on top of a standard wood burner. Additionally, wood-burning stoves provide a cosy and traditional ambience, adding to the overall experience of being on the water. Finally, log burners offer excellent heat output for such a compact size, lots of models are designed with boats and barges in mind making them a practical and space-saving choice for heating your vessel. You won’t need to buy a wood burner that takes up large amounts of space either and your stove will ensure that you stay warm even in freezing cold weather conditions.

Some boat owners use electric plug-in heaters as a heating solution and whilst electric heaters are capable of heating small spaces they can be expensive to run when compared to a wood-burning or multi-fuel stove. An electric stove or heater can offer your living space instant heat but we would suggest using them as a supplement heater to your narrowboat stove.

Wood burner on a canal barge

Factors to Consider When Selecting a Wood-Burning Stove

When selecting a wood-burning stove for your boat or barge, there are several factors to consider. Firstly, you'll want to ensure that the stove is the appropriate size for your vessel, taking into account the available space and ventilation requirements. If you own a wide beam boat, you’ll likely want to buy a stove with a decent size firebox which will mean on cold nights you can top your stove up with fuel and try to keep the boat warm until the morning. It's also important to consider the stove's heat output, as this will determine how effectively it can warm your boat or barge. We recommend you stick to a wood burner that produces a heat output of 5kW or less, at this level of heat there isn’t any requirement for ventilation to the outside. Additionally, you'll want to choose a stove that has been designed with marine and narrowboat use in mind, these stoves are built to withstand the unique conditions of being on the water and we’ll recommend some of the most popular models shortly. Finally, consider where you are going to position your stove, as well as any additional features or accessories that may be important to you, such as an oven or heat shields if you have combustible materials close by. Think safety first when choosing where your log burner will be installed. Don’t position the stove near access ways or a place where it may cause an obstruction and try to avoid placing it near steps (we understand this can be difficult on a narrowboat where space comes at a premium). By carefully considering these factors, you can select the best wood-burning stove to keep you warm and cosy on the water.

Top Wood-Burning Stove Options for Boats and Barges

When it comes to finding the perfect wood-burning stove for your boat or barge, there are several top options for you consider. We’ve put together some of the top rated models below that have been manufactured with the safety of your boat in mind. We’ve included cook stoves, wood-burning stoves and even long lasting cast iron options so you can stay warm and cosy on the water.

Go Eco Adventurer 5 with Freestanding Hearth & Heatshield

Installation & Safety Tips for Wood Burners on Canal Boats

Installing a wood-burning stove on a boat or barge requires careful consideration of safety measures and the flue system will need to be appropriately designed so the stove can work as well as it can. Here we’ve put together some tips to ensure you have the correct flue parts and your stove will be safely installed:  

  • Consult a professional : It is recommended to seek the assistance of a professional heating technician or a qualified installer who has experience with fitting wood-burning stoves.
  • Choose the right location: Select a suitable location for the stove that allows for enough clearance around the fire from combustible materials. Ensure that the stove is securely mounted to prevent movement when sailing. Most wood burners installed within a barge have a heat output of 5kW or less so you won’t need any additional ventilation for the heater.
  • Install an insulated flue system : A flue for your stove is necessary to safely vent the smoke and gases produced by the stove. We recommend that an insulated twin wall flue is used directly from the stove through the ceiling/roof of your boat and a cowl/rain guard is used at the top of the system. If you need help with knowing which parts to order please contact us .
  • Use appropriate heat shields : If you’re installing a wood burner into a tight space you may need to use heat shields around the stove which will protect the surrounding area. There are marine-grade hearths available for log burners to sit on too which will provide you with heat protection to the base of the stove.  
  • Buy a carbon monoxide detector : Wood-burning stoves produce carbon monoxide as a by-product of combustion. Installing a carbon monoxide detector in the vicinity of the stove will ensure early detection of any leaks or combustion issues.
  • Follow manufacturer's instructions : Always refer to the manufacturer's instructions for installation and maintenance guidelines specific to the wood-burning stove you have chosen. This will ensure that you are following the recommended procedures for safe operation.  By following these installation and safety tips, you can enjoy the warmth and comfort of a wood-burning stove on your boat or barge while prioritising the safety of yourself and others on board. 

Wood burners on canal barges by StovesAreUs

Enjoying the Ambience of a Log Burner on Your Narrowboat

There's nothing quite like the cosy warmth and ambience of a wood-burning or multi-fuel stove on a boat or barge. However, ensuring the installation is done safely and correctly is important. By following the tips mentioned above, you can enjoy the comfort of a wood-burning stove while keeping yourself and others on board safe.

Whether you're living on a barge or a narrowboat or enjoying the use of one over a weekend, a wood burner is essential if you want to stay warm and enjoy the winter months. You can create a warm and friendly glow from the flames of your fire so don't let the cold weather stop you from enjoying your time on the water - stay warm with the best wood-burning stove for your boat or barge.

Double Sided Stoves

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The Dwarf 3kw Small Wood Stove

$ 795.00 Original price was: $795.00. $ 695.00 Current price is: $695.00.

The Dwarf 3kw is the smallest of the Dwarf line and is perfect for the smallest of spaces under 200sq’ like vans, RV’s, campers and tiny-tiny houses. It’s identical in features to our other stoves – just smaller! Unlike other similarly sized small stoves on the market, this little heater is designed with robust features and is ideal for full-time use. See which size is best for heating your space .

Save 10% off standard 4″ flue parts with the purchase of your Dwarf Stove! Discount taken automatically in cart. Does not apply to Ventis or snaplock parts.

Availability: In stock (can be backordered)

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THE DWARF FEATURES

  • Cast Iron Door and Firebox for Durability and Heat Retention
  • Large Window for Monitoring and Enjoying the Fire
  • Top or Rear Flue Exit and Top Cooking Surface
  • Riddling Grate and Ash Pan for Easy Cleanup
  • Separate Primary, Secondary and Tertiary Air-Control
  • Wood Storage Stand
  • Heat Shielding
  • Cool to the touch Spring Handle comes standard on all stoves!

THE DWARF SPECS

Dimensions: H17.25” x W10.5” x D8.75” – See detailed
Heat Output: 3kw 
Weight: 75lbs
Flue Diameter: 4”
Material: Steel & Cast Iron
Fuels: Wood
EPA Cert? None –
UL Listed No –

DOWNLOAD DWARF MANUAL

BODY CONSTRUCTION

The sturdy body is made of thick 3/16″ – 5/16th Steel Plate.

The door is made of high-quality cast iron with a large fire viewing window for a classy look while providing optimal heat retention.

FLUE OUTLET

The 4” Flue outlet can exit out the top or the rear of the stove depending on your needs. Exiting out the rear of the stove allows the entire top surface to be used as a cooking plate while exiting out the top of the stove allows are tighter installation with less clearances.

AIR CONTROL

The Dwarf gives you complete control over primary, secondary and tertiary air supplies. The airtight primary and secondary air are controlled by separate levers on the bottom of the stove and the tertiary air-wash is controlled by a slide valve just above the door.

The Dwarf firebox is made of durable cast iron and refractory fire brick. Cast iron is very durable for continuous use, and the fire bricks reflect heat back into the firebox for a more efficient burn.

BURNS CHUNKS OF WOOD: 6-8″ Long

RIDDLING GRATE + ASH PAN

The bottom of the firebox is a cast iron grate with a mechanical lever (located lower left of door) that engages the floor of the grate sifting out ash from the firebox. This handy feature helps to quickly and efficiently clean out the firebox. Below the grate is a removable ash pan for easy disposal.

OPTIONAL ADD-ONS

You can customize the look of your stove by adding the tall cast iron legs or wood storage stand.  Factory heat shields are available for clearance reduction.

16” sides, 18” rear, 36″ top to ceiling. You can reduce required clearances by up to 2/3 with a properly designed heat shield .

The Dwarf can safely burn wood or compressed logs up to 8 inches long.

*Free shipping to the lower 48 US states on orders over $1,000.  Use our flue parts calculator to build a complete parts list for your project, and order everything at the same time to meet the free shipping threshold. If you are outside the lower 48, please contact us with your postal code for a shipping quote.

⚠ Warning: California Proposition 65

Use of this product can expose you to chemicals including soot, creosote, wood dust, and wood smoke containing carbon monoxide, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, birth defects, or other reproductive harm.  For more information, visit www.P65Warnings.ca.gov .

The factory coating applied to your Dwarf stove is not food grade.  When using your stove for cooking, always place your food in appropriate cookware, and never directly on the stovetop.

U.S. ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION AGENCY 

This unit is not a certified residential wood heater. For portable and temporary use only.

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What others are saying

Greg Mamishian

Rated 5 out of 5

Greg Mamishian (verified owner) – October 18, 2018

This amazing little stove has ~more~ features than most full sized stoves! The design is very well thought out, and all of the parts are robust.

We’re using it to heat a 120 square foot two story loft style tinyhouse and it gets the place toasty warm with just a few chunks of wood.

Wood stoves with small fireboxes face a challenge to burn efficiently because small fires have so little mass, but the Dwarf 3K handles this issue with ease. The three air controls allow you to precisely control the fire to get a clean efficient burn, and you don’t even need to leave the door open to get the fire started.

We really like the long cast iron legs because they allow us to store firewood neatly under the stove without taking up extra space.

You can use the spring door handle without a glove no matter how hot the stove gets, and gives it an old fashioned look.

The outside air kit works great to give the stove it’s own separate supply of combustion air instead of drawing warm air from inside.

I’ve used wood stoves for home heating for 47 years and this one is superb!

https://i.imgur.com/4KevBjc.jpg

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Sonja Owen

Sonja Owen (verified owner) – January 9, 2020

We love the little thing, it’s quite awesome! Talk about put out the heat the little thing can put out! It heats up our 250sq.ft. cabin quite easily, even on days when we haven’t been up for a couple of weeks. The only thing that I would say that is a bit of a bummer is that with the dampeners turned down low, it won’t burn through the night without having to get up every 2-3hrs to reload with wood or cut down fire logs. But talk about it being easy to use and working just like a regular sized wood stove, minus being able to burn all night long, its great!

I also want to also say that everyone that I had the pleasure to work with, mostly via email that you all have been nice to work with and are super knowledgeable and by taking the time to explain answers to me, was very helpful in decision making. Its so very nice to have friendly and easy to work with people when making important purchases, that will explain why this or that will or won’t work. We greatly appreciate it!

Thank you for making such a quality product that we will be able to use and use as long as we own our cabin in the woods!

Dan

Dan – January 10, 2020

Sonja- Thanks for sharing your review. I’m so glad you’re enjoying your stove! Have you tried building an upside-down fire to get longer burn times? We’ve been able to get burns much longer than 3 hours with that method in the Dwarf 3kW Standard, though it takes some practice. Check out How to Make a Small Wood Stove Burn Longer .

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Susan Penn

Susan Penn (verified owner) – March 7, 2020

This little stove is a game-changer for living onboard my sailboat! Within about 5 minutes the chill is taken off the cabin, and the stove comes up to full heat within 10 minutes or so. I added a heat-activated fan which makes a big difference in spreading the warmth throughout the room.

I am new to this type of wood stove, and it has taken a little while to get acquainted with the best combination of air flow for different situations. The booklet that came with the stove provides very useful information on its use! I have read that section more than once.

I’m delighted at how long the stove keeps warming the cabin after the fire has gone out. With my electric heater, you had about 5 minutes before you were reaching for another layer. This little gem keeps me warm for a couple of hours, and over night the residual heat keeps the cabin from feeling like an ice box in the morning.

I have purchased some wood for use, and will probably continue to do so, but I also encountered a source of free wood! The company strongly advocates for using wood that is grown near you, and I support this. I discovered a chain saw shop very close to home that keeps big logs to test saws on. The testing results in lots of small pieces, which people are welcome to take. The logs right now are redwood, which is fairly soft and burns quickly, but there is lots of wood available. I’m still hoping to find a hard wood source as well!

I also want to thank the staff, who always answered my questions promptly.

Thank you for this wonderful stove!

Julie & Ryan Fowler

Rated 5 out of 5 perfect stove for our bus!

Julie & Ryan Fowler (verified owner) – May 12, 2020

How's the stove's output? Just Right

What kind of structure are you heating? Bus

We installed the stove with ease and it works fabulously!! We live in a converted school bus that my wife and I built. This stove was very good quality and works as described. All of the hardware and flu parts were of very good quality and easy to use plus they look amazing installed. I would 10 out of 10 recommend this product and will be buying again for future projects!!

Jim Griffin

Jim Griffin – May 15, 2020

What kind of structure are you heating? Tiny House

We really love our new wood stove! We had been burning gas to keep my “shop” warm in the winter months and this was a BIG upgrade. We chose a Tiny Wood Stove for efficiency and to be honest, it has a view of the fire! The folks at TWS were great to work with and it made it even better they were a small business (I spend enough at the big box stores).

sailboat wood stove

Katix – June 24, 2020

Last fall I bought a different wood stove of another brand to install in my skoolie home. It wasn’t a bad product, but not the right fit for my home. It wasn’t powerful enough for the space I want to heat. And the chimney flue system I built didn’t work well at all. I stumbled onto TinyWoodStove.com when looking for advice on what I had done wrong, and they were an incredible resource! Rather than trying to convince me to buy one of their stoves, they gave me excellent advice on how to improve the system I already had so it could work better. …But then I bought a Tiny Wood Stove Dwarf 3Kw anyway!

I am so happy with this stove! It’s tiny and fits great in my school bus, but really makes a lot of heat. Even though it’s about the same size as my first stove, the Dwarf 3Kw stove produces way more heat. It’s beautiful and powerful and efficient. The chimney system I bought from Tiny Wood Stoves is amazing as well. Being on a tight budget, I compared prices all over the internet, and nowhere else could I find flue parts of this quality for this price. And the customer service has been remarkable, from the very first contact through purchase and installation…

And until this project I didn’t know I could paint a wood burning stove! Holy cow, it’s gorgeous! My bus is defined by color, and this beautiful little metallic mint green stove fits right in.

My thanks to Dan, Cody, and Elizabeth in customer support, Luisa in shipping, Nick in all the helpful videos, and everyone else on the Tiny Wood Stove team!

sailboat wood stove

Kate – January 18, 2022

Did you have to purchase something special so it could go out the wall instead of up through the roof ?

Dan – January 19, 2022

Thanks for the question! The stove is the same regardless of how you plan to vent it, but the flue parts you’ll need for a wall exit are a bit different than a roof exit. A wall exit requires a bit more insulated pipe, a thimble for the wall penetration, and a tee on the outside of the structure to turn vertical, and some supports to keep the chimney upright. We offer all 4″ flue parts you need to install a Dwarf 3kW in either configuration. The best place to start your design would be with flue system builder or drop us an email at [email protected] to discuss your plans with us one-on-one.

Julian

Julian (verified owner) – December 11, 2020

Installation was straightforward and it works well for its size. Everyone thinks it’s super cute.

Only downside is having to cut wood into smaller pieces to fit but that’s the nature of a tiny stove.

Renae Favor

Rated 5 out of 5 Perfect for our 25' Skoolie!

Renae Favor (verified owner) – December 15, 2020

I installed it in 25’ skoolie I’m renovating. The instructions were the best, especially considering I’ve never done anything like this before. I have to say cutting that 6” hole in the roof was the most nerve-wracking part. The heat it gives off makes everything feel cozy, warm and toasty. So very happy with my choice in stoves. The times when I had a question someone always got back to me. Love your product, the helpful videos and customer service. Thank you!

sailboat wood stove

Rated 5 out of 5 Worked perfectly for my 160 sq ft. cabin

Miranda (verified owner) – April 20, 2021

What kind of structure are you heating? Cabin

I purchased this stove to heat my little cabin, and it’s worked out so well. It burns super efficiently, and doesn’t take a lot of wood to really crank out the heat and warm the place up.

The burn controls allow for a really controlled burn, so I could really shut it down and burn it for long periods of time without overheating the cabin. With the help of a few chunks of compressed logs, I was able to keep coals going all night when it got really cold. Adding a heat powered fan to the top of the stove also really helped circulate the hot hair quickly.

The stove is very easy to operate compared to other stoves I’ve used before. Starting the fire is easy. I LOVE the glass door to keep an eye on the fire and it really makes the room feel cozy.

The riddling grate is awesome for sifting ash down into the ash pan, and the ash pan works perfectly as a scoop to get the ashes out.

All in all, I was really happy I made this investment. It definitely made winter a cozier and more satisfying experience.

sailboat wood stove

Rated 5 out of 5 Great Woodstove

Geoffrey (verified owner) – April 30, 2021

My wife and I were restoring and Airstream to live in it year round in Michigan. We received a lot of help and support from the Tiny Wood Stove Team. They always answered our question quickly and we felt very safe about installing the Dwarf in our camper. It heats the space very well and the size is perfect to heat the space from October to April. Even when we had days in the negatives (Fahrenheit), we were able to keep the trailer at a confortable 70F. I highly recommend ordering a heat powered fan too, that made all the difference. It’s also great to cook on and I’ll definitely miss that in the summer!

Kevin Milder

Rated 5 out of 5 Perfect Addition to the Tiny House

Kevin Milder (verified owner) – July 28, 2021

The Tiny Wood Stove worked perfect for our tiny house. It not only heats the space well but it also is the perfect visual addition. The stove created not only an eye appealing addition but also added the homey touch to the house.

sailboat wood stove

Scott Hirst (verified owner) – September 19, 2021

I am totally satisfied with my stove. The install went very smooth and the flue calculator was right on with everything I needed.. I emailed with a question about the install I got an answer very quickly. Highly recommend. It was worth the wait.thanks

sailboat wood stove

Elyzabeth – November 11, 2021

Is the chimney exit always in the middle of the stove top? No rear exiting pipe stoves?

Dan – November 12, 2021

Thanks for the question! The Dwarf 3kW Standard (this product) has a top and a rear exit option. When you assemble the stove, you choose which one you want to use. The flue flange goes on the exit you’re using, and the cover plate goes on the exit you aren’t.

We also have a lightweight version of this stove, the Dwarf 3kW LITE . The LITE version is top exit only with no rear exit option available.

Ondine Rarey

Rated 5 out of 5 The Best Thing I’ve Ever Owned

Ondine Rarey – March 20, 2022

Granted, this is my first woodstove, but it does seem like the most important and wonderful thing I’ve ever owned! I cannot say enough good things both about this product and about the team at tiny wood stove.

The stove is completely beautiful in it’s design, easy to put together and works absolutely beautifully. It’s so effective that I don’t need to even chop my wood; I can put almost anything in there that fits and it will burn. It’s also easy to control the temperature.

But perhaps the thing I love best about this product is the company itself. It was one of my favorite finds during the pandemic. I recently moved off the grid and I cannot tell you how many companies will sell you something that doesn’t work and that you will have an incredibly hard time returning, replacing or getting help with. At Tinywoodstove I was assigned Heather in the beginning and she guided me through the entire process. She was extremely knowledgeable, friendly and also patient.

I’m about to order my second stove. Just hoping this review doesn’t make it harder to get my hands on one! 😉

Robert Turner

Rated 5 out of 5 Tiny Stove for a Tiny Cabin

Robert Turner (verified owner) – October 19, 2022

I did alot of research, to decide on a well made stove for my 14×20 custom built cabin, I chose the Dwarf 3KW, dont let the size of the stove fool you , it has performed better than expected , it is a quality built product, the support has been amazing..

sailboat wood stove

Rated 5 out of 5 The perfect fit!

Jason Buranen (verified owner) – November 5, 2022

I spoke to the helpful folks here before I purchased to work out the details of my install, they put together a custom quote for me, and my order arrived without a hitch! They are very transparent and communicative throughout the shipping process – very nice!

The stove itself is perfect for my tiny cabin (I insist on calling it a shack) and puts out the right amount of heat without turning it into a sauna. Install was easy just using the manual and watching one or two of their videos. I’ve never installed a stove or a stovepipe before but I guess now I know I can.

Nothing at all bad to say – everything works as advertised.

sailboat wood stove

Rated 5 out of 5 Shipping container cabin

jason Hawken (verified owner) – February 9, 2023

I have a 20′ shipping container cabin and this works great. I had a larger stove before but it got too hot and lots of soot built up because it was always shut down. With this new stove, I can cook, boil water, and it runs clean. I would buy it again.

Kristen

Rated 5 out of 5 Exactly what we expected

Kristen (verified owner) – February 20, 2023

We love our Tiny Wood Stove! It was very well packaged for delivery, Installation was easy and customer support was helpful with my purchasing questions as well as through the installation process by providing information videos. The stove heats our space really well and does exactly what we expected. Highly recommend!

James Dolan

Rated 3 out of 5 Use Energy to Make Energy

James Dolan (verified owner) – April 17, 2023

How's the stove's output? Too Small

What kind of structure are you heating? RV

I have owned my dwarf 3kw for three years now. This stove has kept me alive in several very cold winters, and has cooked plenty of meals for me and my guests. This is a well designed stove, with some unfortunate but predictable cons. Pros: Extremely efficient. Leaves very little ash. Can burn Osage Orange, anthracite or any other extreme high heat fuels. Can burn PINE because the flue comes apart very easily to clean. Cons: I touch every piece of wood that I burn on this at least 5 times. Chainsaw first, then maul to split it. Then miter saw to cut it safely to 6-8″ length. Larger chunks of wood take a long time to burn, obviously and do not put out much heat. Most logs will need split another time if you plan on having a hot fire. If choose to purchase firewood, you will regret it because of the extra steps you need to take to Cut it to size. It’s much easier if you Cut your own, though it kind of appears that it’s designed for burning limbs. I have numerous scars from this excessive splitting, due to my dependence on this stove. My stove with an 8’6″ flue out the back stays lit about 5 hours of packed to the brim and turned all the way down. It kept me alive for several years living deep off grid, so this isn’t a complaint. Just letting future generations know… Get a stove that burns regular sized wood.

sailboat wood stove

Erin (verified owner) – November 9, 2023

Getting ready to make dinner on the stove! And my temperature is perfect ☺️

sailboat wood stove

Christopher Kilgore – December 16, 2023

Does this stove have a cooktop on it?

Cody Hennigan

Cody Hennigan – December 30, 2023

Christopher-

All of the stoves get hot enough on top to heat a kettle or cook with a small cast-iron skillet. The 5kW size is the only stove we offer that also has an oven upgrade. The 4kW and 3kW are too small to make an oven feature feasible but you could use a small dutch oven if you need to do some light baking.

Fiona – December 28, 2023

Does this stove come with all necessary chimney parts?

The stoves are sold as individual units. Since every installation is different, we offer basic kits that include everything you need to safely penetrate the structure (roof v. wall) but all vertical lengths need to be added separately since each structure requires different lengths of pipe. You can use our Parts Calculator on our Tools page to help put together a list of parts you’ll need to install your stove.

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The Unique Burial of a Child of Early Scythian Time at the Cemetery of Saryg-Bulun (Tuva)

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Pages:  379-406

In 1988, the Tuvan Archaeological Expedition (led by M. E. Kilunovskaya and V. A. Semenov) discovered a unique burial of the early Iron Age at Saryg-Bulun in Central Tuva. There are two burial mounds of the Aldy-Bel culture dated by 7th century BC. Within the barrows, which adjoined one another, forming a figure-of-eight, there were discovered 7 burials, from which a representative collection of artifacts was recovered. Burial 5 was the most unique, it was found in a coffin made of a larch trunk, with a tightly closed lid. Due to the preservative properties of larch and lack of air access, the coffin contained a well-preserved mummy of a child with an accompanying set of grave goods. The interred individual retained the skin on his face and had a leather headdress painted with red pigment and a coat, sewn from jerboa fur. The coat was belted with a leather belt with bronze ornaments and buckles. Besides that, a leather quiver with arrows with the shafts decorated with painted ornaments, fully preserved battle pick and a bow were buried in the coffin. Unexpectedly, the full-genomic analysis, showed that the individual was female. This fact opens a new aspect in the study of the social history of the Scythian society and perhaps brings us back to the myth of the Amazons, discussed by Herodotus. Of course, this discovery is unique in its preservation for the Scythian culture of Tuva and requires careful study and conservation.

Keywords: Tuva, Early Iron Age, early Scythian period, Aldy-Bel culture, barrow, burial in the coffin, mummy, full genome sequencing, aDNA

Information about authors: Marina Kilunovskaya (Saint Petersburg, Russian Federation). Candidate of Historical Sciences. Institute for the History of Material Culture of the Russian Academy of Sciences. Dvortsovaya Emb., 18, Saint Petersburg, 191186, Russian Federation E-mail: [email protected] Vladimir Semenov (Saint Petersburg, Russian Federation). Candidate of Historical Sciences. Institute for the History of Material Culture of the Russian Academy of Sciences. Dvortsovaya Emb., 18, Saint Petersburg, 191186, Russian Federation E-mail: [email protected] Varvara Busova  (Moscow, Russian Federation).  (Saint Petersburg, Russian Federation). Institute for the History of Material Culture of the Russian Academy of Sciences.  Dvortsovaya Emb., 18, Saint Petersburg, 191186, Russian Federation E-mail:  [email protected] Kharis Mustafin  (Moscow, Russian Federation). Candidate of Technical Sciences. Moscow Institute of Physics and Technology.  Institutsky Lane, 9, Dolgoprudny, 141701, Moscow Oblast, Russian Federation E-mail:  [email protected] Irina Alborova  (Moscow, Russian Federation). Candidate of Biological Sciences. Moscow Institute of Physics and Technology.  Institutsky Lane, 9, Dolgoprudny, 141701, Moscow Oblast, Russian Federation E-mail:  [email protected] Alina Matzvai  (Moscow, Russian Federation). Moscow Institute of Physics and Technology.  Institutsky Lane, 9, Dolgoprudny, 141701, Moscow Oblast, Russian Federation E-mail:  [email protected]

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