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How to: replace a halyard

  • Theo Stocker
  • November 1, 2020

Rubicon 3’s Rachael Sprot explains how to avoid losing the lines in the mast, whether you're replacing an old halyard for new or mousing the mast over winter

Halyards need taking out of the mast if you’re unstepping the mast or the line needs replacing. It is pretty straightforward, but there are a few steps to follow to make sure you don’t create more problems in the process. Replacing a failed halyard at sea is an entirely different matter, and we’re not covering that in this article. Halyards run up to the top of the mast and then back down inside. Sometimes they go down inside a channel, but usually they’re loose, often alongside cables for your lights and instruments.

Mousing line

replacing sailboat halyards

It’s crucial they never get twisted, so it’s much safer to replace a halyard with a mousing line than it is to feed in a new halyard from scratch. It doesn’t matter too much what the mousing line is, as long as it’s strong and thin enough. It should be twice the length of your mast, plus enough to take it back to the cockpit if you’re leaving the mast up, or to tie back on itself if you’re lifting the mast out.

Pick the correct end from which to mouse the halyard. It’s best not to use the standing end that’s attached to the sails, as there are often fittings on this end. Start at the working cockpit end. You may even find that a flat loop has been spliced into the end of a braid-on-braid line to make this process easier.

Joining lines

replacing sailboat halyards

Securely attaching the mousing line is key. If you’ve got heavy halyards and very narrow sheaves then sewing the lines together end-to-end is best. If you have lightweight halyards then tying the mousing line to the halyard tail with a rolling hitch, and then taping over it to cover any edges that could snag should be sufficient. Once tied, give the line a good pull to ensure everything is secure.

replacing sailboat halyards

Work the line through

replacing sailboat halyards

Flake out the mousing line in the cockpit so it can run freely, and secure the end so you don’t lose it. Pull through from the standing end, keeping the mousing line under control. If the line gets stuck, gently work the line back and forwards; sometimes the knot or join will need gentle encouragement to get through the sheave.

Make secure

With the halyard out, make one end of the mousing line secure to the base of the mast, and the other end either back to itself, or tied to a secure point in the cockpit. Finally, label each halyard as you go. It is easy to forget which is which and therefore make mistakes when re-rigging.

replacing sailboat halyards

To re-mouse the halyards, flake out the halyard, attach the working end to the mousing line that comes from the masthead, and check they are secure, before pulling back through. Ensure you keep hold of the standing end so it doesn’t disappear to the top of the mast. You may need to manually work the line through the sheave at the bottom of the mast.

replacing sailboat halyards

GJW Direct offers some of the most comprehensive and competitive boat insurance policies on the market. With more than 175 years in marine insurance, when you insure your yacht with us, you’re dealing with the boat insurance specialists, leaving you free to enjoy your time on the water.

With thanks to Bruce Jacobs and the experts at rubicon3adventure.com , the UK’s specialists in adventure sailing and training.


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The Boat Galley

making boat life better

No, you don't have to go up the mast to change a halyard. See how we do it in less than 5 minutes from the deck.

Installing a New Halyard

Published on May 7, 2018 ; last updated on June 12, 2020 by Carolyn Shearlock

Installing a new halyard on a sailboat is pretty simple . . . and no, you don’t have to go up the mast as long as the old one is still there. It doesn’t even have to be in good shape (as you’d want it if you were going to use it to go aloft). It just has to be there.

Since we had to replace our spinnaker halyard this past weekend, I took photos of how we did it. Literally less than 10 minutes, and a big part of that was because I was taking pictures. It would have been under 5 minutes otherwise.

Basically, all you have to do is securely fasten the new halyard to the old, then use the old to pull the new into place. The key is securely. Just taping it together won’t do. And you obviously can’t tie a know in it and expect it to pass through the sheave. So how do you do it?

If the old halyard has a shackle on the “sail” end, start by cutting it off (we did this and had it spliced onto the new halyard — read about our splicing here ).

Then use a 8- to 10-inch piece of Monel wire or sail twine to “stitch” the bitter end of the new halyard to the “sail” end of the old halyard.

No, you don't have to go up the mast to change a halyard. See how we do it in less than 5 minutes from the deck.

If using wire, wrap it tightly around the line so it won’t catch on the fittings on the top of the mast or snag another halyard inside the mast.

No, you don't have to go up the mast to change a halyard. See how we do it in less than 5 minutes from the deck.

Start pulling gently down on the old halyard as if hoisting the sail. Make sure the halyards aren’t fouled and don’t have knots in them. If there’s a second person to help, they can hold the other end of the halyard away from the mast and any protrusions, although it usually won’t snag.

No, you don't have to go up the mast to change a halyard. See how we do it in less than 5 minutes from the deck.

And check out our other courses and products

replacing sailboat halyards

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Reader Interactions

May 7, 2018 at 8:27 am

I have always just electrical tape to connect the two lines. I cut an angle in each line. Then I use the tape. I run the tape at lease 6 inches on both sides of the cut. I learn this from tapeing electrical wire to a fish. Oh yes I only have 3 M tape on the no cheap stuff

Carolyn Shearlock says

May 7, 2018 at 10:19 am

I’m always afraid of just using tape in case I have to tug a bit to get it through the sheave or past other things in the mast.

May 8, 2018 at 8:31 am

Good idea on the monel wire and something else to maybe consider is using this technique if you wish to store or “hide” you halyards if you leave you boat for long periods …….. take a length of cheap nylon cord and attach it to the halyard (using this Boat Galley technique) and then “replace” the halyard with the cheap cord for the storage season to prevent UV damage etc to a good halyard while on the hard or moored somewhere.

May 8, 2018 at 8:36 am

Just be careful as some cheap line is VERY susceptible to UV damage and could break in just one summer of exposure.

Tyler Heerwagen says

February 8, 2019 at 1:02 pm

How do you calculate how long your Halyard needs to be?

February 8, 2019 at 1:07 pm

Assuming you know the height of the mast from your boat specs, you can take your existing halyard and see how much longer or shorter it is than twice the height of the mast. Always err on the side of getting it longer than you think you need — it’s better to pay for 5 feet extra than to not get it long enough and have to buy a second piece.

February 8, 2019 at 1:11 pm

Thank you, pretty straightforward for sure, just checking!

Liah Hunter says

March 2, 2020 at 8:27 am

We have a drum of super cheap rope from the hardware store – blinds cord. That is thin enough to bowline through the cover taper on the cockpit end of the line. We can then give it a fair tug through the mast if necessary. Once we have the entire halyard on deck and the cheap 3mm stuff in the mast (and through jammers and fairleads too) we can get an exact replica cut, then we can splice on chafe protection over any vulnerable parts by looking at the damage to the old halyard. Then we repeat the whole thing in reverse, pulling the new halyard back through and putting the hardware shop rope away for the next time.

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replacing sailboat halyards


Boat Sailor

Halyard sailing: unlocking the secrets to smooth sailing.

Halyard Sailing

Ahoy there, fellow sailing enthusiasts! Today, I’m excited to dive deep into the world of halyard sailing, a crucial aspect of sailing that often goes overlooked. As someone who has spent countless hours on the water, I can vouch for the significance of a well-maintained halyard system in optimizing your sailing experience. So, hop aboard as we hoist the sails and explore the ins and outs of halyard sailing!

Introduction to Halyard Sailing

As you embark on your sailing journey, understanding the fundamentals of halyards becomes paramount. These seemingly ordinary ropes play a pivotal role in raising and lowering sails, directly impacting your vessel’s performance and safety. But fear not, we’re here to guide you through the enchanting realm of halyard sailing!

Understanding Halyards

What are halyards.

Halyards are ropes or lines used to hoist and lower sails, allowing you to harness the wind’s power and set your course. These ropes are the unsung heroes that transform the still canvas into billowing sails, propelling your boat forward.

Types of Halyards

There are various halyards available, each catering to different sailing needs. From wire halyards to modern synthetic lines, understanding their unique characteristics empowers you to make informed choices.

Materials Used for Halyards

The choice of halyard material can significantly impact its strength, durability, and performance. We’ll explore the pros and cons of different materials, helping you decide what suits your sailing style best.

Importance of Proper Halyard Setup

replacing sailboat halyards

Safety and Performance

A well-maintained halyard system ensures not only a smooth sailing experience but also enhances your safety on the water. We’ll delve into the relationship between halyards and safety, so you can navigate with confidence.

Avoiding Wear and Tear

Halyards are subject to wear over time due to constant use and exposure to the elements. By understanding how to minimize wear, you can prolong their lifespan and save on replacement costs.

Enhancing Sail Control

Efficient halyard handling allows for precise sail control, empowering you to adapt to changing weather conditions and achieve optimal performance. Let’s unravel the secrets of harnessing the wind’s full potential.

Choosing the Right Halyard for Your Sailboat

replacing sailboat halyards

Consider the Boat Type

The type of boat you own plays a vital role in determining the appropriate halyard. Whether you’re cruising on a monohull or flying on a catamaran , we’ve got you covered.

Sailing Conditions

Adapting to varying weather conditions demands the right halyard choice. Discover how to match halyards to different wind strengths and sea states, ensuring a pleasurable sail in all circumstances.

Sail Material and Size

The type of sails you use influences the halyard’s requirements. We’ll explore the connection between sail material, size, and halyard selection to optimize your sailboat’s performance.

Maintaining and Inspecting Halyards

Regular cleaning and lubrication.

Proper halyard maintenance involves regular cleaning and lubrication to prevent dirt buildup and maintain smooth operation. Learn the best practices for keeping your halyards in top-notch condition.

Identifying Signs of Wear

Vigilance is key to spotting early signs of halyard wear. We’ll walk you through common indicators, ensuring you catch any issues before they escalate into a larger problem.

Replacing Halyards

When the time comes to bid farewell to your trusty halyards, having a seamless replacement process can get you back on the water swiftly. We’ll provide guidance on when and how to replace aging halyards.

Best Practices for Halyard Handling

Raising and lowering sails.

Mastering the art of raising and lowering sails ensures a safe and efficient sailing experience. Discover techniques to execute these maneuvers effortlessly.

Preventing Tangles and Snags

Tangled halyards can quickly turn a leisurely sail into a frustrating affair. Unravel the mysteries of tangle prevention and maintain a stress-free sailing journey.

Coiling and Storing Halyards

A well-coiled halyard is a sailor’s best friend. Learn how to coil and store halyards properly, preventing tangles and extending their lifespan.

Upgrading Halyard Systems

Modern halyard technologies.

The world of sailing continues to evolve, and halyard technology is no exception. Explore the latest innovations that can take your sailing experience to the next level.

Benefits of Upgrading

Upgrading your halyard system can be a game-changer, but understanding the benefits is crucial before making the investment. We’ll discuss the advantages that come with modernizing your halyards.


Is upgrading halyards worth the investment? We’ll weigh the costs against the benefits, helping you make an informed decision based on your sailing needs.

Troubleshooting Halyard Issues

Empower yourself with DIY halyard fixes that can save you time and money. Discover quick and easy solutions to common halyard challenges.

When to Seek Professional Help

While some issues can be tackled on your own, others may require professional expertise. Know when it’s time to call in the experts for halyard-related matters.

Enhancing Performance with Halyard Tuning

Tuning for different conditions.

Adapting your halyard setup to different wind and sea conditions can optimize your boat’s performance. Learn how to fine-tune your halyards for any sailing scenario.

Improving Sail Shape

Halyard tension plays a vital role in achieving the desired sail shape. Unlock the secrets of sail shape optimization for maximum speed and efficiency.

Optimizing Speed and Efficiency

Halyard tuning directly affects your boat’s speed and overall efficiency.

Tips for Halyard Care and Longevity

Protecting halyards from uv damage.

UV rays can take a toll on halyard strength and integrity. Discover how to shield your halyards from the sun’s harmful effects.

Avoiding Overloading

Overloading halyards can lead to premature wear and failure. Learn how to distribute loads properly and ensure your halyards stand the test of time.

Storing Halyards Properly

Proper halyard storage during offseason is crucial for their longevity. We’ll guide you through the best practices for storing halyards when they’re not in use.

Frequently Asked Questions

What’s the lifespan of a typical halyard.

Halyard lifespan can vary depending on several factors, such as material, usage, and maintenance. Generally, a well-maintained halyard can last anywhere from 3 to 10 years. Regular inspections and timely replacements can prolong their lifespan.

Can I use a rope halyard for my large sailboat?

Using a rope halyard for a large sailboat is possible, but it’s crucial to choose the right type of rope and ensure it has adequate strength to handle the loads. Consider the sail’s size, boat type, and sailing conditions before making a decision.

How do I know if my halyards need replacement?

Signs of wear, such as fraying, discoloration, or stiffness, may indicate that it’s time to replace your halyards. Additionally, if you notice reduced performance or difficulty in raising or lowering sails, it’s best to inspect the halyards thoroughly and consider replacement.

Can I use the same halyard for different sails?

While it’s possible to use the same halyard for different sails, it may not always be ideal. Different sails often have unique requirements in terms of tension and halyard length. It’s recommended to have dedicated halyards for each sail to ensure optimal performance.

How often should I inspect my halyards?

Regular inspections are essential to catch any signs of wear or damage early on. It’s advisable to inspect your halyards before and after every sailing season, and also periodically throughout the sailing season, especially after experiencing rough weather conditions.

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Michael Thompson

Embarking on a lifelong love affair with the sea, I found solace and exhilaration in the art of sailing. From navigating treacherous waters to harnessing the wind's untamed power, my passion has evolved into a mission to inspire others. Join me on a voyage of discovery as we explore the vast horizons of sailing's timeless allure.

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Practical Sailors Guide to Choosing Cost-Efficient Halyard Materials

Practical sailor testers evaluate the many cordage choices available for both furling sail halyards and conventional sail halyards, with a look at the different rope fibers out there and a specific focus on cost vs. line stretch..

replacing sailboat halyards

Sail performance is directly affected by the type and condition of your halyards. Upgrading your halyards to a low-stretch fiber helps ensure youre getting the sails full power, and it can add life your sails. After testing a sampling of lines from New England Ropes, Novatech Braids, Samson Rope, and Yale Cordage, Practical Sailor found that line stretch decreases significantly as cost increases. And while the very-low- to no-stretch high-tech lines often come with through-the-roof prices, there are low-stretch halyard options available for the budget-minded sailor. This article offers a line cost vs. line stretch analysis and an overview of the fibers available. UV resistance and other factors like abrasion resistance and ease of splicing will be the subject of future tests on these halyard materials.


While considerable development continues in the realm of high-tech, high-budget halyards, cruising sailors and club racers face a variety of choices but few new products since our last comprehensive halyard comparison (“For All-Rope Halyards, Its Hard to Beat New England Ropes Sta-Set,” December 1997). One recent addition to the range is VPC, from New England Ropes, which brings the low-stretch, low-creep characteristics of Vectran into an affordable upgrade from polyester double braid. Creep is a fibers taffy-like gradual elongation over time while under a static tensile load, and given how most sailors today are relying on at least one permanently hoisted sail, this factor will likely come into play.

Over the last decade or so, the large production-boat builders have found that more than 80 percent of new-boat buyers are choosing in-mast furling mainsails on boats 30 feet and longer. These boats all have roller-furling headsails, too, so the selection of halyard material is simplified somewhat: The halyards for these sails are rarely handled, so “hand” becomes a less-important quality to consider.

Another attribute, though, becomes more important: durability under load. The working end of the halyard spends its life under tension, bent around a sheave at the masthead. Because the sail remains aloft indefinitely, the halyard is rarely inspected, and must be trusted to perform without supervision throughout a season, or longer, if the boat is sailed year-round. All of these lines, except the Amsteel, have polyester covers, so one can expect similar service lives.

For sailors who have conventional sails and use the halyards on a regular basis, hand remains important. So too does the lines willingness to run free without snagging. And these sailors have plenty of opportunities to inspect the line for wear at its critical points.

Clutch slippage is also a factor. In last years rope clutch test (“ Clutch Play ,” April 2006), we used three of the halyards featured in this comparison. Subjected to 400-pound loads in two of our preferred clutches, the Lewmar D2 (the easiest to bleed) and the Spinlock XAS (the best gripping), Yales Vizzion proved to hold the best (average slippage 3/8-inch), followed by Samson Warpspeed (13/32-inch) and New England Ropes Sta-Set (7/16-inch). We will be looking at all these halyards clutch performance in a future test.

Regardless of sail type or deck gear, one factor always affects the choice of line for any halyard, and that is stretch. When the goal is to get the best performance out of a sail, its halyard should stretch as little as possible when it comes under additional load from a freshening breeze or sailing closer to the wind. When a halyard stretches, it allows the sail fabric to move aft. The draft of the sail moves with it. This results in the driving force rotating aft, creating more heeling moment and more weather helm. The boat is sailing less efficiently than it could, and you may be forced to reef earlier than you otherwise would.

As its fabric pulls aft, a sail on a mast track will scallop between the slides, and horizontal wrinkles will form at the slides. Apart from looking unseamanlike and making life less pleasant aboard, this also puts uneven stress on the sail fabric, which could&emdash;depending on how much sailing you do under these conditions&emdash;shorten its useful life.

So, heres another reason to renew your halyards, and perhaps even upgrade them: to save wear and tear on your sails.

Ironically, a cruising-boat owners budget is often expended on comforts and electronics, while the sails, which one would suppose are the boats reason for existing in the first place, get short shrift. When it finally comes time to specify the halyards and running rigging, the pot is empty. Ultimately, for the sake of a hundred dollars saved on a halyard, the owner never sees the full performance he paid for in his new sail.

For an average boat in the mid-30-foot range, a new mainsail can cost from $2,000 upward, and the premium for a “performance” mainsail over a basic Dacron model starts at about $500. Anyone investing that much would be well advised to hoist it on a halyard that does it justice. For about $100 over the cost of a basic polyester double braid, halyard stretch can be reduced by 75 percent, and the sail will be better able to deliver its promised performance.

By the same token, if you have an aging sail thats rather stretchy along the luff, you could eke another season or two out of it while you save up for a new one by spending a couple of hundred dollars on a less stretchy halyard. The halyard you bought will still be good for the new sail a few years down the road.

Another benefit of a low-stretch halyard is that it reduces effort in the cockpit. Trim-conscious sailors will find they have to make fewer adjustments to the halyard to keep the draft where they want it.

How We Tested

For this article, we looked exclusively at the cost/stretch aspect of new halyards. The Stretch to Cost Table on page 14 shows quite dramatically how great the benefit is for an additional investment that is really quite small, relative to the cost of a new sail. While we specifically looked at a main halyard, the results apply equally to a jib halyard for the same reasons.

For our comparison, to keep the math simple, our hypothetical test boat was somewhere around 35 feet, with a mainsail luff length of 40 feet. Running the halyard back to the cockpit, we assumed 50 feet of line between the winch and the head of the fully hoisted sail. Again for simplicity, we assumed a halyard load of 1,000 pounds, which is a reasonable maximum to expect the mainsail to exert on it&emdash;after that, its time to reef. (Once reefed, stretch resistance becomes even more important on a conventional sail, because the exposed halyard is now longer by the depth of the reef. When a luff-furling sail is reefed, adjusting halyard tension is pointless.)

For each sample of cordage we examined, we took the manufacturer-supplied stretch characteristics and calculated the stretch in inches that would result from our 1,000-pound load acting on the 50-foot standing part of the halyard. To simplify the pricing, we assumed buying 100 feet of line to provide an ample tail in the cockpit and enough extra length to allow “freshening the nip” a few times over the halyards life.

Our baseline rope was double-braid polyester, 7/16-inch in diameter. This kept our assumed 1,000-pound load at no more than 15 percent of the lines average breaking strength. A smaller diameter would probably suffice in the real world, but it would stretch more, precisely the opposite of what were trying to achieve.

The resulting graph of inches of stretch plotted against cost produced a dramatic curve, from which its quite obvious that the first $100 you spend over the basic polyester double-braid halyard buys a significant reduction in stretch. We should note that the values used for stretch are interpolated from data provided by the manufacturers in their literature or on their websites. While they may not be precise, we are confident that they reliably illustrate the argument. We intend to do our own testing on all of these lines, including stretch, to be reported on in a future issue.

The prices used in the graph are the lowest prices we found for each product. While researching these, we were reminded of how important it is to shop around. The price sources we used, and they are by no means exhaustive, appear in the “PS Value Guide Halyards” at left.

Learning the Ropes

The fibers commonly used in the products we studied are polyester, ultra-high-molecular weight polyethyline (UHMPE, sometimes written UHMWPE), para-aramids, and liquid-crystal polyester polyarylate (LCP). Polyolefin (polypropylene) is also used to add bulk to some fiber combinations.

This side of the Atlantic, polyester is usually known by its Dupont trade name, Dacron. It is inexpensive (relatively), has good tensile strength, and resists degradation by UV light, but it has a low Youngs Modulus (meaning, its stretchy). Compared to 7×19 stainless-steel wire, which was commonly used in the past for halyards, its very stretchy.

UHMPE comes under two common brand names, Spectra and Dyneema. Each of these has variants, but thats beyond the scope of this article. UHMPE has high strength and low stretch, which in combination with its generally good resistance to UV makes it well suited to halyards.

Para-aramids include Kevlar, Technora, and Twaron, variations on a molecular theme from different manufacturers. They exhibit similar strength to UHMPE at a lower price, but the trade-off is theyre not totally happy bending, they don’t perform well under abrasion, and they don’t stand up to sunlight as well. In sailing applications, they are usually found protected by a covering of some sort, except when they are the protection&emdash;against the heat generated when highly loaded lines are blown off a winch.

Vectran is the only LCP found in marine rope. It has high strength, low stretch, and better abrasion resistance than the para-aramids. It is far less susceptible to creep that UHMPE, and for that reason, it is useful when under standing loads. It, too, needs protection from UV.

Polyolefin, sometimes listed as MFP, is an inexpensive fiber used to bulk up small volumes of high-tech fibers to increase diameter and improve “hand.” It is basically polypropylene, and used by itself, appears in ski-tow ropes and on life-saving equipment. Its light, and it floats, but it doesn’t stand up to UV light.

Plotting Price vs. Stretch

Plotting cost against stretch using the same 1,000-pound load on a range of ropes produces a very clear picture of what youre buying. (For loads other than our 1,000 pounds, scaling up or down should produce the same relationship between stretch and cost.) You can almost halve the stretch by simply upgrading from 7/16-inch Sta-Set to the same size in Sta-Set X. Going up another level (see rope list) halves the stretch again, even with a reduction to 3/8-inch diameter to reduce cost. As stretch approaches zero, cost goes through the roof, but thats of little consequence even to the serious club racer, because several choices lie within a reasonable price point.

One way to use the graph would be to pick a maximum cost youd be comfortable with and look at the individual plots to the left of that number. Youll find that some of them are higher-tenacity material at smaller diameters. We figured 5/16-inch (8 millimeters) is as small as is comfortable to handle. Depending on your boats current winches, rope clutches, and sheaves, these may not work for you.

We included one single-braid line, Amsteel, simply for comparison. If youre tempted to go that route, you should consult a rigger about covering it so that it can lock properly in stoppers.

UV resistance and other factors like abrasion resistance and ease of splicing will be the subject of future tests on these halyard materials.


When it comes to making your decision, you will have to take into account factors beyond dollars and stretch&emdash;nothings simple. And until we do further testing, any definitive recommendations would be premature. Nonetheless, using the accompanying tables you should be able to find a good halyard that best meets your requirements and budget.

First: What size and type of line do you currently have? If this is original equipment, the entire halyard system may have been designed around it, from the masthead sheaves to the turning blocks at the base of the mast, to the clutch on the cabin top. Before electing to go down a size, or even two, in line diameter, you need to be sure this wont trigger a cascade of modifications necessary to accommodate it.

If you had wire, you will have to change the masthead sheaves to suit any synthetic line (and those sheaves are probably due for replacement anyway). Sheaves grooved for wire will make short work of a synthetic replacement. The higher high-tech lines, such as the 12-strand, single-braid Dyneema or Spectra (Amsteel, for example), work best under high loads in a sheave with a flatter-profile groove. The line flattens, reducing the difference in tension between the inner and outer fibers. Double-braid lines, which are the most suited to cruisers and casual racers anyway, are less fussy.

Going down a size in diameter will help your halyard systems efficiency by reducing internal friction as it turns around the now relatively larger sheaves. Most rope manufacturers specify a sheave-to-line-diameter ratio of 8:1 for optimal performance, but you rarely see this in many production-boat setups.

Going down two sizes, from 7/16-inch to 5/16-inch, will certainly get you into the high-tech material within your budget, but you may not get the stretch savings you hoped for. Also, you may find your stoppers wont accommodate the line.

Check the range of sizes your clutch or stopper will handle. If it will accommodate a size smaller than your present halyard, you can move up to a higher tenacity fiber core for better performance and down in diameter, and still gain the low-stretch advantage.

If you have permanently hoisted sails, you might want to look at a low-creep fiber for the halyards. This usually means a Vectran blend, and therefore more expense, but you wont suffer from gradual loss in luff tension as the season goes by. Because your sail is either all the way up or off the boat, the fall of the halyard, the part that would be hung on the mast or wherever when the sail is up, doesn’t have to be high-tech. A good rigger will be able to combine a single-braid standing part with a cover-only tail, saving both weight aloft and money.

Make sure you make both the tail and standing part long enough to permit freshening the nip a few times. Where the halyard sits on the masthead sheave, it will wear, and it will be exposed to ultraviolet (UV) light. Regular inspection, and cutting off and replacing the splice once in a while should prevent an untimely failure.

All of the lines discussed here can be spliced, but their differing constructions will dictate just what type of splice to use. Splice required is listed in the Value Guide, with additional information available on the manufacturers websites. Most of the suppliers also offer splicing services, and depending on line size and splice complexity, $15 to $30 seems like a bargain when measured against frustration most of us part-time riggers will suffer should we attempt the job ourselves.

  • Practical Sailor Halyard Lines Value Guide
  • Stretching Dollars
  • Splice-Ability


So why is the plot of price vs. strech included?

Where are the “accompanying tables” ?

To Karen- The tables are in the Also With this Article links at the bottom. To Darrell- Your pricing guide is really out of date. APS does not exist anymore. Hall Spars does not appear to sell line. DR Marine does not sell Portland Braid. The prices seem way out of date. Novabraid Polyspec was extremely hard to find online which raises concerns about it. I found it from The Chandlery Online for $1.69/ft.

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  • Measure where you think The arch feet are going to land on the back of the boat, pick either the front or back leg landing positions and measure the span. Check for backing plate/nut access at these positions.
  • Assemble the arch laying on dock and slide the sides into the bridge evenly until the leg span you measured is Approx 5-6” wider than your goal span. Tape the joints at the bridge using masking tape to stop it sliding further in when you are test fitting.
  • Measure the “drop” from where you think the forward legs will land and the aft legs will land and trim the forward legs. Accordingly. I usually leave them a couple inches longer than I think they need to be, and do the final trim once I’m at the mocking up stage.
  • Assemble the arch feet and install them, using string to secure them to the arch legs using a rolling hitch.
  • Use a block and tackle or a truckers hitch to squeeze the legs together to match the span you are aiming for. No more than 6”.
  • Hoist arch into position using topping lift or main halyard  (and two people) and test fit. At this point you can measure exactly how much you need to trim off the forward legs to make the arch fit level.
  • If the arch needs to sit lower, once you have it level, you can trim both legs the same amount. Keep in mind that as the arch gets shorter the span will narrow slightly due to the geometry of the arch.
  • Once you like the position, mark the feet in their positions using sharpie and lower the arch back to the dock. Release the block and tackle and drill/bolt the bridge. Drill and epoxy/bolt the feet into position.
  • Hoist the arch again and check all landing positions on feet one final time. Mark bolt holes on gelcoat and move arch out of the way for drilling. Try to pick the forward or aft feet and do them in pairs, pick whichever set you think will allow you to bolt it down securely then pivot the arch back or forward to do the other pair after (check orientation of arch feet for pivot ability).
  • Through bolt all feet and tighten. If fitting to an uneven surface, back fill the area behind the plate with thickened epoxy.
  • Tighten all bolts on foot bases.

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Salt Creek Marina and Yard Rules & Regulations (DIY & Storage)

“Common Sense, Compliance with Laws, Consideration Toward Others” (January 1, 2023)

This agreement shall be effective on the date hereunder by and between the undersigned Owner or Agent of the vessel(s) hereinafter (“Vessel Owner”) described below and Salt Creek Marina, Inc. and The Yacht Rigger LLC located at 107 15th Ave SE, St. Petersburg, FL 33701.

8/21/2023 UPDATE – If a hurricane system becomes a named storm and your boat is in one of our wet slips you MUST move it back to its original berth. The boat is not allowed to stay. The owner is responsible for planning with their preferred captain, or The Yacht Rigger has two captains on staff.

1. Fees: The Yacht Rigger and Salt Creek Marina reserves the right to change its rates upon one (1) months’ notice.

  • Monohull DIY Dry Storage will be $900 monthly or $225 weekly, with a minimum of 1 week required. After the first 4 weeks, the rate will increase by $50 per week, for the remainder of the boat’s duration.
  • Monohull Wet Slip will be $1,100 monthly or $275 weekly, with a minimum fee of $100.
  • Catamaran Wet Slip will be $2200 monthly or $550 weekly.
  • Haul / Block / Relaunch – One Time Charge $12 per foot
  • Emergency Haulout – $25 per foot
  • Short Haul – – – Special Haul to be scheduled by The Yacht Rigger or approved contractor only + $175 contractor fee (includes normal haul out rate)

2. Insurance: Vessel owners must provide insurance with Salt Creek listed as additional insurer on their vessel before arrival. Vessels must always be insured.

3. Hurricane & Summer Storm Season: June 1 – November 30 Haul out boats for storage or DIY work on the hard during this time are required to remove all canvas (including but not limited to Bimini, sail covers, dodgers, e.g.) as well as all sails on the boom or furlers. Remove all moveable equipment: canvas, sails, dinghies from davits, cushions, water toys, grills, biminis, roller furling sails, etc. Canvas and sails must be stored below and not on deck. Lash down everything you cannot remove tillers, wheels, booms.

4. Live Aboard – Wet Slip Only (Yacht Rigger Only Rule): Starting January 1st, 2024, customers may NOT stay on their vessel during electrical refit work or other major modifications or upgrades down below. Due to the nature of these projects requiring major upheaval down below within your living space and the need for our teams to work efficiently. Rigging and “above deck” type work will permit liveaboards. As much as we would love to accommodate liveaboards during this time, it is simply too inefficient for us and expensive for you, the customer. For vessels with excessive items on board preventing efficient work, we will provide on-site storage pods at market rates.

5. Third Party Warranties: This includes any warranty claim that is to be made against the original manufacturer or seller of the vessel or product. Should a warranty claim arise, The Yacht Rigger will estimate the job accordingly. It will then be up to the customer to obtain approval from the applicable 3rd party (boat manufacturer, spar manufacturer, etc.). If approved & immediately upon completion of the warranty issues, the customer is solely responsible for the payment of the work completed. It is then the responsibility of the customer to be reimbursed by the applicable 3rd party.

6. Yard Hours: The boatyard hours are 8:00am to 6:00pm, Monday- Sunday. The boatyard gate locks at 6:00pm. You may come check on your vessel, re-secure rigging, canvas and pump out water during business hours. Please check in with the office if you are near closing hours.

7. Utilities: Boatyard provides power & water to vessel owners as a part of their agreement so long as the owner fully adheres to all Rules and Regulations. When you are finished with the water hoses, turn them off and place them back neatly in the area you found them. Please ask a Salt Creek Marina Boatyard Employee for access to either option.

8. Outside Contractors/ Subcontractors With Management approval (determined individually) contractors may work on a storage vessel for a fee of $40 a day in addition to monthly storage/dockage fee. The owner shall be responsible for informing the office of any subcontractor working on the vessel for any purpose whatsoever. The subcontractor shall submit insurance before any work can commence. Salt Creek Marina and/or The Yacht Rigger reserves the right at its sole discretion to stop unsafe work practices and if deemed necessary to order the offending worker(s) to leave the site at the Owner’s/Skipper’s sole risk and expense.

9. Supplies: All paint including but not limited to, bottom paint, primer or barrier paint, haul or topside paint, varnish or otherwise any paint being applied to your vessel must be purchased through the Boatyard or approved by Management. This policy is for safety and environmental protection purposes of all persons operating in the Boatyard. Paint will normally arrive within 24hrs of purchase.

10. Paint Spraying: There shall be no spraying in the Boatyard under any condition. Any person spraying any paint will be immediately expelled and fines levied.

11. Cleanliness: All vessel owners shall be responsible for keeping their area clean and professional. The Boatyard reserves the right to charge the vessel owner for any cleanup required to comply with RR. All debris associated with boat repair activities must be disposed of daily. A dumpster is located near the parking area.

12. Disposal: There is a designed disposal station of 55 gal drums for oil and one for oily rags and filters located near the office door. PLEASE DO NOT PUT GASOLINE IN THESE DRUMS.

13. Facilities: Bathrooms are provided as a courtesy to all Customers. We will make our best efforts to keep it clean but reserve the right to limit access any time. Please use the outside sink for heavy clean up and use the indoor head/sink for bathroom purposes only. The Yacht Rigger has its own set of facilities to be used by its staff and customers. Please do not use SCM facilities.

14. Parking: Park in the designated parking area. Vehicles should be parked clear of travel lift path, not in storage areas, on the seawall or blocking boats. Salt Creek Marina and/or The Yacht Rigger is not responsible for vehicles that are damaged by equipment or conditions in the yard

15. Regarding noise outside of the scope of work not being completed, i.e., radio/stereo volume, please be respectful of neighboring boat owners’ tenants.

16. Salt Creek Marina and/or The Yacht Rigger is not responsible for any theft or loss of items left on or around the vessel.

17. The yard takes no responsibility for accidents, injury, or death to any persons in or working within the yard at any time. All people wishing to enter the boatyard for any reason do so at their own risk.

18. Failure to comply with these rules and conditions can result in additional charges if Salt Creek Marina and/or The Yacht Rigger personnel are required to do site cleanup operations and/or will be asked to remove your boat from the marina.

19. Additional Rules:

  • Owners are not permitted to test engines, run water for AC or other purposes while on the hard. All electricity and water shall be for the sole purpose of working on their vessel and disconnected when unoccupied.
  • There are to be no mobile AC / Heater Units or Refrigeration Units to be run on the hard.
  •  No unfurling of sails will be permitted at any time, under any circumstance.
  • There is to be no hot work, flame cutting, welding etc. to be done in the yard.
  • Jack stands and blocking may only be used and moved by employees of Boatyard.
  • Boatyard reserves the right to move vessels when needed without permission or notifying owners.
  • Any trailer, dingy, mast, or other personal property not directly attached to the vessel must be pre-approved, additional charges will apply if approved.
  • Packages – you are welcome to send packages to our address here, but please make sure they state your name and “CO The Yacht Rigger” and limit your packages to 5 a week.

Any modifications outside of these rules will be determined individually by Management. REMEMBER THESE RULES & REGULATIONS ARE FOR EVERYONE’S BENEFIT. PLEASE HELP KEEP THIS BOAT YARD A CLEAN & SAFE WORKPLACE. ** Salt Creek reserves the right to change these rules at any time.

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Anchoring clearance, standing rigging clearance, running rigging clearance, deck hardware clearance, chandlery clearance, safety clearance, sheets and halyards selection guide.

23 Nov 2018

A guide to choosing the right replacement running rigging lines

Purchasing replacement lines is often a straightforward process. Especially, if you're happy with the performance of the existing line and can identify what it is. The length can easily be specified by measuring an existing halyard or sheet and can even be guessed fairly accurately, from schematics if you are familiar with your deck layout. The nominal diameter is slightly trickier because different brands use different volumes of fibre to achieve their specifications creating slight variations in comparable ropes. If in doubt, deck hardware is often a good place to check for recommended line diameters.

Deck hardware

The difficulty arises when considering an upgrade or you're not entirely sure what you already have on board. At this point, the material to be used, the construction and the diameter of the rope all need to be considered. These factors have a significant influence on the overall cost and performance of your line. This guide aims to help you choose the right line at the right price.

Rope Materials

There are many more fibres available for the truly discerning sailor, however, this article sets out the 5 most common ones found in our product range.

Listed in order from most expensive to most economical, they are Vectran, Dyneema, Technora, Polyester and Polypropylene. 

Rope fibres

  • Vectran is the strongest and most expensive fibre and has very low elongation over time (creep). It is commonly impregnated with a UV stabiliser.
  • Dyneema is very nearly equal to Vectran in terms of strength and stretch and is also usually impregnated with a UV protective coating. The price advantage over Vectran makes this a popular choice with rope manufacturers at the upper end of the market.
  • Technora has very high abrasion and UV resistance and is commonly blended into the cover/jacket of a braid on braid line.
  • Polyester is the most common fibre with excellent UV resistance, good breaking strains and low stretch characteristics. It is available in a bright monofilament fibre and a softer, matt finish, spun yarn. Bright polyester fibres are low stretch e.g. braid on braid bright white polyester. The softer feel, spun yarn has less strength and is slightly stretchier. Spun yarn is typically used for the cover/jacket on e.g. 16 plait matt polyester.
  • Polypropylene is the lightest (doesn't absorb water) and cheapest fibre. However, it is stretchy and susceptible to UV.

Rope manufacturers have traditionally used different fibres for the core and the cover, in order to make the most of their relative advantages, but can now produce even better ropes by blending different fibres together, in either the core or the jacket.

Rope Construction


The majority of lines are comprised of a braided core and a braided jacket. The most common cruising lines are 100% polyester (cost effective). The weight of fibre in these lines is usually balanced equally between the cover and the core and can be spliced using the double braid splice.

Marlowbraid is the exception as it has a 3-strand core which slightly reduces stretch for a very modest increase in price. The downside of this construction is that it tends to flatten around sheaves and winches.


N.B. braided lines with a polypropylene core may make a saving but will be reflected in a marked lack of performance particularly with regard to extra stretch where it is not desirable.

The construction of the cover also has a bearing on abrasion resistance. Generally, the covers with a tighter weave or 'more plaits' e.g. 8, 16, 24 or 32 plaits offer a sliding scale of improved wear resistance.

Stronger fibres such as Dyneema or Vectran are required to significantly increase the strength of a line and reduce its stretch. Typically, these fibres are used in the core which is therefore much stronger than the cover. These lines then have to be spliced using the core dependent method which in turn means the weight of fibre in the cover can be reduced.

Cost vs Performance

The cost is directly related to the amount of Dyneema/Vectran content in the finished rope and therefore related to the strength and stretch.


It, therefore, follows that the strongest (and most expensive) line for a given diameter does not have a cover and is 100% 'core'. However, Halyards and sheets still rely on the cover for grip and abrasion resistance in clutches and on winches. The solution is to strip the cover from the core shortly after the winch or clutch. This can only be done with core dependent ropes.

All the fibres mentioned can be blended to produce covers with different properties. Racers may use a polypropylene/Dyneema blend for lightweight sheets or a technora/polyester blend for sheets that get through a lot of work. Cruisers are less likely to have sailing condition specific requirements, so a standard polyester cover heavy enough to give good longevity is usually the best bet.

Choose the right line

The full range of lines supplied by Jimmy Green Marine can cater for both the cruisers and the racers. So we have arranged the lines on a sliding scale to help you decide where to aim. Specifications are based on 12mm lines.

Whether you're a cruiser looking to strengthen up your lines for a more adventurous outing or a racer looking for a better price point Jimmy Green has a line for you.

You can also find further information on the infographic below. The stretch percentages are based on a 500kg working load rather than an ultimate breaking load. This accounts for the difference between the infographic and the table above. 

Marlow D2 upgrade information

Shop for Sheets and Halyards

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REPLACEMENT LIFELINES FOR SAILBOATS We also have a motorized Kearney Swaging machine and have the capacity to do "renew" on lifelines. We carry Plastic Coated type 316 wire, colour white only, in 1/8 x 1/4 and 3/16 x 5/16 sizes and have stock of most parts and access to more studs and fittings so we can re use many parts that you have on your old lifelines. This machine is portable and we can go to your boat at dockside for local people needing replacements in our area. We have custom made thousands of sets of new and replacement lifelines on sailboats over the past 40 years. We can supply you with instructions on how to measure your boat for replacement lifelines or just to copy the old ones using new wire and swage studs where possible for the turnbuckles and other parts. We also do splicing for the local fishing industry like end to end splicing on seine purse lines and heavy marine double braid from 3/4 to 2 1/4 inch diameter.                              

We also make smaller dock lines with galvanized thimbles and whippings on the bitter ends.  Many yacht clubs use this type where boats are required to be shackled to the dock. We make custom lengths in  1/2 and 5/8 dia. braid.  We also do end to end splicing in double braid  for  two speed mainsheet systems used on  many racing sailboats .      


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replacing cdi halyard

  • Thread starter ljo
  • Start date Oct 13, 2018
  • Hunter Owner Forums
  • Smaller Boats

Our cdi furler is 17 years old and we are thinking it is time to replace the internal halyard before it fails, there is a lot of stress put on it pulling up the jib. Has anyone done this and is it possible to replace it without taking down the mast? Where did you purchase the new halyard?  



ljo said: ...is it possible to replace it without taking down the mast? Click to expand

Tally Ho

Not exactly the same, but when I replaced my main halyard, I ordered the new one with the eye splice and shackle I wanted. When I was ready to replace the old one, I cut the eye and shackle off the old one, butted the new halyard to the freshly cut off end and spiced them together using a paper clip and some sail tape. Then just pulled the old halyard Like I was raising the main and the new halyard went up, over the sheeve, back down inside the mast, exited and pulled right to the rope clutch. Easy-peasy. Greg  


In most cases when I've replaced a halyard I have a professionally done eye splice put in and a new shackle. It's nice and clean and I think worth the expense.  

That’s what I did. But then cut off th shackle from the old halyard and pulled the new one through that way. Greg  

This is not the same as replacing a regular halyard. The cdi furler has its own halyard that is held in the plastic luff by a piece of metal. Wondering if we try to pull the new one through with the old halyard will it work?  

ljo said: Wondering if we try to pull the new one through with the old halyard will it work? Click to expand

Crazy Dave Condon

Look up CDI International as it is in Canada as they sell parts. Just replaced one that broke same age. You will have to drop mast. Leave everything in place except black top which you can unscrew and move it up and replace the internal halyard. Manual is under hunter 260 boat info  

Thanks Dave, that is what I thought, just hoped there was an easier way. Getting the pin back in the fore stay is always a challenge for us.  


ljo said: Getting the pin back in the fore stay is always a challenge for us. Click to expand

Make sure a messenger line is attached  

I did just this thing this past spring. I didn’t drop the mast, but I removed the furler’s foil, replaced the halyard and top piece, and put the foil back up. All you need is a messenger line on the end of the head stay, and you can push the foil right up.  

docon48 said: ... All you need is a messenger line on the end of the head stay, and you can push the foil right up. Click to expand

I would not recommend that due to age. Thank goodness I had the mast down as the halyard broke  


http://www.sailcdi.com/flexible-furlers I’m not sure if this applies to your current setup but here is a link to various CDI headsail product manuals. I had a C&C 24 with a cdi headsail furler and was always a bit concerned about the halyard being dated so I replaced it one winter. As the “plastic” slot for the bead on the headsail was full length (bow to top of mast) and served as the head stay it always took a lot of patience to get the headsail mounted on the boat, lots of binding etc. Up and down until I got it right. So a lot of strain and wear on the halyard and the “track” it sort of runs in. Fortunately for my conditions it was usually once up in spring and down in fall, but I did it once “live” single handed when wind was howling and swore never again!!! There is a reason people invented “hank on” in those conditions, wait for a bit of a lull, clip a little more sail on and pull like crazy ! Personally I wouldn’t attempt this task with the mast up if you have the full length head stay extrusion. Lay it down so it’s easy to replace, take some extra time to inspect and clean/lubricate the groove for the headsail bead. Use high quality pre stretch to replace halyard and enjoy for many years, knowing that “when” crap happens you will be prepared.  

I need to let everyone know. The life of a CDI internal halyard on the FF2 is appx. 15-18 years based on experience and the discussions with the original owner of CDI. I always recommended replacing. like any line, it has a shelf life of 15 years max but pushing it over that. Yes the mast needs to come down. The only thing to do is to unscrew the top black cap taking out the old halyard and inserting the new halyard. Then reattach the black cap. Before taking the mast down, tie a messenger line when taking the sail off and reattach to new halyard. The manual is in boat information in several places but notably on the Hunter 260  


If i remember mine correctly on my Mac, part of the line is de-cored. I'd just order one from CDI if were me  


So to replace, do you have to use the halyard with the ferrule from CDI or can you use regular line from West Marine?  


When I bought my H26 a couple years ago, I discovered that the CDI furler had a halyard with no ferrule. It didn’t seem to cause any operational problems, but I did only lower and raise the sail in the furler once or twice. I was concerned about whether there could be any wear issues, so I’ve since replaced it with a genuine CDI halyard, for peace of mind. But clearly it can work without the ferrule, although you still need to decore it for the required length.  

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replacing sailboat halyards

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Full range of halyards made out of the latest on halyard lines with all needed splicing and required shackles (when applicable). MAURIPRO Sailing rigging shop division has created an easy to use set of tools to facilitate sailboat owners to find the correct length and specifications for your halyards.

Need help? For any additional information or custom made running rigging, contact us; our riggers and sail consultants are ready to assist you with any of your sailing needs.

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West Coast Sailing offers a full selection of marine grade sailing line and rigging including One Design rigging, pre cut line, line kits, and line by the foot for halyards, sheets, control lines, and more. Shop running rigging and standing rigging today from trusted brands including Marlow, Robline, Samson, Kingfisher, New England Ropes, and more.

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J/80 Main Halyard w/ Shackle

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Thistle Main Halyard Tapered (6mm Excel)

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Sailboat line & rigging - halyards, sheets, control lines & more.

Line is a critical part of any sailboat, from small dinghy to super yacht and everything in between. West Coast Sailing offers a wide variety of line and marine rope for every sailor from leading line manufacturers. Whether you're looking for a new control line for your Laser vang, jib sheet for your J24, replacement halyard for your cruising boat, or a high strength low stretch line for a high performance application, we've got what you need to get you back on the water. Shop by common application, diameter, material, and more with options available from Robline, Marlow, Alpha Ropes, and New England Ropes. All line sold by the foot with line kits for select boats and small diameter mini spools available.

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Line has come a long way in the past few decades, and current options offer great value and performance. We offer a variety of h igh tech Lines, which generally feature a non-stretch core for strength, durable cruising lines, which are typically polyester and less expensive but still strong and durable, or Dyneema, Spectra, & Vectran for non-stretch control line, halyard, and sheet applications. Shockcord bungee and floating Polypropylene also available. Scroll down this page for recommendations for line material based on your boat size and application.

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West Coast Sailing carries over 80 different lines from 6 of the best rope manufacturers in diameters ranging from 1mm all the way up to 12mm. Use our handy category filters to narrow in on the specific diameter of lines that work for your application, and then pick the one that meets your exact criteria for performance, color, or price.

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Line Fiber Type / Material Guide

Line application guide - dinghy, line application guide - racing, line application guide - performance cruising, line diameter guide.

Recommended Diameter by Application & Boat Length

If you are replacing an existing line, the easiest way to determine what diameter you need is to match what you already have. This can be done with a caliper or by close estimation with a tape measure. For example, if you've previously used a 7mm halyard and it has performed well, another 7mm line is likely a great choice. In most applications, there is some flexibility in the exact diameter that can be used. Most blocks, for example, have an 'ideal' diameter (ie, the line diameter that runs most effectively though the block's sheave) but also have a range so that you can run a slightly thinner or slightly thicker line. If you have a halyard that is getting hung up in your rig, stepping down 1-2mm might help the halyard run more efficiently. If you have a larger boat or rig and want to run a thinner halyard, consider a double braid line that features a Dyneema or Spectra core for strength. A similar approach can be applied to replacing sheets, control lines, and other line on your sailboat.


Double Braid vs Single Braid

Two terms you will often see in line descriptions are 'double braid' and 'single braid', which refer to the way the line is constructed. At the most basic level, a double braid line has a cover and a core whereas a single braid does not, but there are other important distinctions to consider when making a line selection.

Single Braids  are made up of either 8 or 12 strands that are braided into a circular pattern, half clockwise and half counter clockwise. This produces a line that is supple, absorbs twists, and tends not to kink. There are two types of single braid lines: performance single braids and polyester/blended single braids. Performance single braids are made from fibers with very low stretch and designed to handle extreme loads - think Dyneema, Spectra, or Vectran. Polyester/blended single braids, sometimes called hollow braid, are soft and easy to grip, built for sheets and hand-adjusted control lines. These are less common than performance single braid lines but recommended in a few specific applications.

Double Braids , sometimes called braid on braid, have a braided core within a braided outer jacket or cover. This creates a strong, durable, smooth-running line that is easy to handle. Double braids are used for the vast majority of all running rigging on sailboats including sheets, halyards and control lines for both cruising or racing. There are two types to consider: polyester double braids and high-tech double braids. Polyester double braids, found most commonly on recreational and cruising sailboats, have a polyester cover with polyester core. These are low maintenance, affordable, and long-lasting, while offering relatively low stretch and high working loads. For additional strength and minimal stretch, consider high-tech double braids. These lines typically feature a Dyneema or Spectra core (non-stretch) inside a polyester or polyester/dyneema blend cover for additional durability. They are more expensive but often the go to choice for high performance racing boats.

Sailing Programs & Clubs - West Coast Sailing offers special program pricing on purchases for sailing programs, yacht clubs, and community sailing organizations. Visit our YC & Program Purchasing  page for more details.

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    Our Wire to Rope halyards have been tested by experienced sailors in both club races and in long distance ocean races throughout North America. Cruising boats using Yates Custom Rigging Wire to Rope Halyards have made many ocean crossings. Today we are just renewing many original halyards on production boats that we made over 30 years ago.

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    A halyard line is the rope that pulls the sail up the mast. On some small sailboats, this might be a short 20 foot length of basic 5mm line. On larger, performance boats, this might be 80 feet of high tech double braid line. No matter what type of halyard line you need, West Coast Sailing has you covered. Shop diameters between 4 mm and 12 mm ...

  20. replacing cdi halyard

    The only thing to do is to unscrew the top black cap taking out the old halyard and inserting the new halyard. Then reattach the black cap. Before taking the mast down, tie a messenger line when taking the sail off and reattach to new halyard. The manual is in boat information in several places but notably on the Hunter 260.

  21. How to replace sheets and sails on a sailboat

    We replaced the main halyard, jib halyard, and reinstalled the sails on our 2002 Hunter 326 sailboat with a Selden furling rig. The sails went in for repair...

  22. MAURIPRO Rigging

    MAURIPRO Rigging - Halyards. Full range of halyards made out of the latest on halyard lines with all needed splicing and required shackles (when applicable). MAURIPRO Sailing rigging shop division has created an easy to use set of tools to facilitate sailboat owners to find the correct length and specifications for your halyards.

  23. Sailboat Line & Rigging

    Sailboat Line & Rigging - Halyards, Sheets, ... Whether you're looking for a new control line for your Laser vang, jib sheet for your J24, replacement halyard for your cruising boat, or a high strength low stretch line for a high performance application, we've got what you need to get you back on the water. Shop by common application, diameter ...