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I'm starting this post to do a step by step building lesson as I build a Lake Lefroy Mini. I intend to go through it from tools materials, wheels, steels, sails, masts, pulleys and ropes including building hints and "dont's". PLEASE DO NOT POST TO THIS THREAD as it will get too long with repeated questions. Please post all questions, suggestion, or disagreements onto a separate thread and I will endeavour to keep the world in eternal happiness. Lets start with the history of the design. The project started 3 years ago as a challenge to equal or better some of the great design aspects of a BLOKART, without the pricetag. One lesson we learnt was that the blokart actually represents excellent value and is a lot harder to replicate than you would think. The self imposed rules were to use the same wheelbase and sail area as a starting point. Materials were to be sourced as locally as possible and be materials that others could also source in their area. Utililize recycled materials as much as possible. The "final" product looks and sails great and managed to come up to many of the standards set by the BLOKART but certainly not all. This yacht was designed by a team of up to 20 people in WA and SA over the three year period. I am indebted to the input that each person has put in. PLEASE NOTE: THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION AND IMAGES ARE COPYRIGHT TO PAUL DAY. YOU ARE WELCOME TO USE AND DOWNLOAD THIS INFORMATION FOR PRIVATE USE FREE OF CHARGE AND WITH MY BLESSINGS. YOU MAY NOT REPRODUCE THIS INFORMATION OR IMAGES FOR COMMERCIAL GAIN. regards Paul Day Photo's and step by step instructions to follow. PLEASE DO NOT POST TO THIS THREAD BUT START A NEW ONE FOR QUESTIONS.

WHEELS. the yacht will be using 4.00x 8 rims commonly known as wheel barrow wheels. they are the most universally available wheels we've ever come across, usually reasonably priced and offer good rolling ability on a range of surfaces. the Bearing most commonly seen is the 2"OD,1"ID low speed bearing. which is the easiest to build with . with a bit of work the wheels can be retrofitted with precision bearings , which will give longer life and higher performance. In Australia expect to around the $50 per complete wheel. You may have to buy rim/tyre/bearings separately to get the best value . The next post is a photo of what we've got hold of in the last 2 years. as you will see by the details and opinions of each wheel , price does not determine value.

Wheel 6. Unknown brand ,polypropylene, to suit 25mm solid shaft.. also available in20mm,12mm. Rated Very Poor unsuitable for landyachts or wheelbarrows Wheel 7 Westmix replacement wheel from leading WA hardware retailer. note large quantity of lead glued to rim to attempt balancing. Rated Very Poor. unsuitable for landyachts Kalgoorlie steak knife and Kambalda toothpick shown for size comparison

Apologies for slow work folks, Ive been off sailing.Almost back in the real worldand promoise to get thing moving soon.

there might be a delay in th continuation of the 2 minis were building of a few weeks. sorry. due to a slight mishap i qualified myself for the %^#@!$ stupid idiot award of the year by slicing and dicing a few fingers. due to the bulky bandages(refered to as a stump bandage) i wont be able to fit a welding glove on for a month or so . i do apologise to all,but will get the rest of the photos and plans done ASAP. fortunately long term it will only affect my ability to pick my nose ,which may disrupt my bulls**t detecting abilities slightly.

"Build a Landyacht. Lake Lefroy Mini Yacht" started by landyacht

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The Potty Story

4 of us Brits attended the Americas Landsailing Cup at Ivanpah in 2000 and witnessed the launch of Seagull's Ludic miniyacht. 2 of us immediately ordered one each, 1 took the measurements off our Ludic and made the Yorker Bootlegger, and the 4th made his own version.

The first Bootlegger was delivered to the Cefn Sidan Sand Yacht Club at the Pendine Regatta in 2001. The idea had been that the Club would use the Bootlegger as a Demonstrator to attract new members, and replace it with a new one whenever anyone wanted to buy it.

The Bootlegger was not a pretty yacht - the seat was twisted, with one side nearly 2" lower than the other - so we asked if this was a prototype, or the finished article. It transpired that it was indeed the finished article so, later that night, 3 of us - Mark, Andy and Dave - decided we could do a better job ourselves, and MAD Designs was formed.

Mark was a Professional Photographer and would do the Marketing; Andy - myself - was already a fanatical sandyachter and willing test pilot, and Dave was a Blacksmith with a fully equipped workshop in a farm barn in the depths of rural South Wales. The 3 of us raced Class 5 sandyachts and had nearly 50 years of sandyachting experience between us.

The Receptionist in Andy's Estate Agency business in Haverfordwest volunteered her toy-boy partner - who had just finished a boat-building course at the local College - to make the seat, and Dave began making prototypes that were rigorously tested on Cefn Sidan Sands in the Pembrey Country Park, near Llanelli, in South Wales.

The whole yacht was designed so it assembled in seconds, with no tools, and fitted in the back of the original Ford Fiesta. One was even collected by a buyer in one of the first tiny Smart cars.

The first Potties were designed to split in half, linked by a piece of spring steel under the front of the seat, which enabled the chassis to twist. The mast was 4 pieces of aluminium that slotted together, and the sail - originally made by Goacher in Cumbria, then by R&J in Clevedon, purely to save the VAT - had the battens at right angles to the mast, so the sail rolled up into a nice tight bundle, the longest part of which was the longest batten, which fitted snugly in a bag that was under 4' long, complete with the mast and 2-piece boom. The combination of a soft, bendy mast and a chassis that twisted, meant that the rig leaned over a lot, particularly in stronger winds. This was a good safety feature, as it meant that sudden gusts - that would otherwise tip you over - were simply spilled, by the rig bending away.

The vital piece of spring steel in the middle of the yacht looked like part of a leaf spring from an old-fashioned car or trailer. It was 7" long, held in place by "cross head knobs" that located into dents drilled in the ends of the spring. The twizzly knobs had to be done up tight - by hand - or the yacht would come apart, usually when you pushed on the steering pedal to turn the yacht. This happened to everyone, at least once.

The balance of the yacht was exquisite. You could throw it sideways, and it would behave impeccably. I was showing off at the Brean Regatta in a strong wind when no one else was out sailing, and threw the yacht into a tight turn at full speed ... only for the yacht to split in half. I'm told it looked horrific, as I went cartwheeling down the beach, along with the two halves of the yacht which were kept together by the sheet rope.

The making of the springs was desperately unscientific. You take a piece of mild steel, heat it so it is red hot, then "quench" it - stick it in a bucket of water - then do it again. The amount of twang in the spring was absolutely critical - if the spring was too soft, it would bend - and if it was too hard, it would snap. The first batch of springs were absolutely perfect, but the 2nd batch wasn't, neither was the 3rd, nor the 4th. The springs all looked the same, so they all got muddled up, and the supplier then told us to go away, so that was the end of that design.

Dave did try making his own "twix" springs, using two bits of spring steel bar, side by side, with welds at either end and in the middle, but they were not a success as they were too stiff.

The original yachts were only 170 cms long, and I am 6'4", so I was sailing with very bent knees ... which was no problem initially, but my knees were suffering, so Dave made me a longer yacht. My yacht was non-adjustable, ie "rigid", as I had a van to keep it in, and it was both faster, and more comfortable.

When the local Activity Centre at Pendine wanted some yachts, we decided the "rigid" design was better suited to their needs, as they would not be taking them apart. We offered a 4" longer version, and the non-adjustable yachts were much easier for Dave to make, so we were able to offer them at a lower price. The design was so simple, clean and strong. We sold them to other Activity Centres, some Sandyacht Clubs, and even the Army, but the Army removed the Potty stickers from the back of their seats.

Dave then made some adjustable yachts, with 3 different length settings. The front tube with the mast foot on it had 2 captive nuts welded inside it, and it slid into a larger diameter tube under the seat which had a series of holes drilled in it, with 2 bolts to lock it in place. It was difficult to make, and then the galvanising process would cause Dave endless grief as he would spend many hours making everything fit together easily again. It was equally fiddly to assemble on the beach, as wet sand would prevent the two halves slotting easily together, and it was too easy to cross-thread the bolts. When stress cracks started to appear around the bolt holes, Dave abandoned the design and started using box section stainless steel instead.

50 mm box section stainless steel for the front half of the chassis - with the mast foot on it - was readily available, but we had to get the bigger box section under the seat made specially. Initially the length adjustment boxes were made from flat sheet by someone who put two folds in it, to make a U-shape channel, onto which Dave would weld a top. This welding had to be done very carefully, to avoid any weld getting inside the box, as it would then have to be filed out again. Dave also liked a neat, clean weld ... so would grind off most of the weld after he'd finished, to give a neat, bevelled finish. We had endless problems with the length adjustment boxes - the welding on the box would pop if it wasn't perfect - and I must have popped nearer 20 boxes than 10. One batch of 10 boxes were hopeless. Dave would replace the box on mine, and send me out again ... only for the new box to pop ... and this carried on until there were only two or three left, at which point he took them back to the chap who made them. Eventually Dave found someone else to make the boxes properly - and he still adds some extra reinforcing welds in critical places - and, for all that I popped a lot of them, I think only two customers have ever had them fail.

Dave is one of life's genius inventors. He thoroughly enjoyed all the Research and Development, and was never happier than when I would call at his workshop on my way back from the beach, to drop off something that had cracked or broken. He would then get stuck in to improving the design, to make sure the perceived problem did not recur.

It did, however, become obvious very early on that Dave loved the design and problem-solving aspects of making the yachts, but could not bear the thought of making lots of them. If I wanted 10 or 12 yachts, they simply wouldn't happen. I'd find him busy making remote controlled gates, ornate weather vanes, or secret stuff for the military, instead of making Potties. I soon learned to ask for no more than 4 or 6 at a time, as 4 or 6 was possible, but more were not - which meant we never had enough stock for Mark to do any marketing - so we were never able to offer the yachts to scout groups, schools etc.

We started making the stainless Potties in 2010, and - despite the problems with the length adjustment boxes - the design has not changed significantly, and - frankly - The Standard Potty is as good as it gets. It combines simplicity with strength and incredible longevity. The performance is outstanding, too. The Original really is the Best.

When the Miniyachts started racing in 2011 and there was talk of the Minis becoming a new Class of landyacht with it's own Specification, Dave surprised me by agreeing to make a Race version of the Potty. I had previously asked him to make me one the same size as the Blokart, and he had declined, hence my surprise.

Developing a stretched version of our little Potty was great fun. The new yacht was bigger, so it could take bigger sails, but the simplicity of the original design was lost. A 4th pulley was added, behind the pilot's head, which meant the mast could bend even more. The yacht was a lot longer, so the footpegs had to be moved further back. The seat was much lower, with the chassis frame running inside the lip of the seat, and the seat was tilted back. The sails - developed by R&J Sails, who have a long and chequered history of making winning sails for Class 5 yachts as well as our Minis - have the battens parallel to the boom. The battens are tapered, with tension adjusters, like the Class 5 sails. The Potty Max - so called because we stretched the design to it's absolute Maximum - really does look the business, and it goes very nicely, too. If you see our standard Potty go sailing by, you might think Oooh, that looks like fun ... but if you then see a Max go past, you'd think Now that is more like it !

The Max is faster than the Blokarts, which cost almost twice as much, but it is not competitive against the modern race Minis - which cost three times as much - mainly because the modern race Minis are based on Class 5 yachts that have been reduced in size.

As at January 2019, the supply of Potty Minilandyachts is uncertain. Dave was "old" when we started making the Potties in 2001, and he's even older now, which is why the supply of yachts is drying up.

You are welcome to enquire, to see what is available.

Enquiries to [email protected]

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Updated International 5.6 Mini Rules *

January 2016

After months of discussion, FISLY has agreed to sanction 2 classes of Mini Yachts, Sport and Spirit.

The Sport Class rules are unchanged from the Mini Class rules that have existed for the past serveral years, Anyone who has a boat that has legally competed in international Mini events in the past can continue to compete in the Sport Class.

The Spirit Class (or maybe more accurately, sub-class) has more restrictive rules designed to keep the class inexpensive and competitive without the constant tinkering required by a more open class. All Spirit Class boats can still legally compete in the Sport Class.

Interested US 5.6 Mini Association members voted overwhelmingly to accept the 2 class system.

A Sport Class mini yacht is:

• Any assembled land or sand yacht that fits inside a continuous loop of rope 5.6 meters long.**
• The rope must lie on the ground. The touching part of the tyres on the ground must fit inside the rope.
• The tyre size is maximum 400x8***
• The mast must be a circular tube; no wing section

When racing in NALSA events, all NALSA rules apply when applicable (seatbelts and helmets required, for example)

A Spirit Class mini yacht:

1. A fully assembled Spirit miniyacht must have all wheels fit inside a continuous loop of rope/ cable 5.60 meter long and of 4mm minimum diameter.*

2. The Spirit Miniyacht must be measured on hard, level ground, with the measuring rope or cable running around the outside of the point of contact between each wheel and the ground.

3. The wheels / wheel rims on the Spirit Miniyacht without exception must be what are known as a “wheel barrow” style.

4. The tyre size is maximum 4.80/400x8 and the wheel/wheel rim with a fitted inflated tyre is a maximum of 400mm tall and 100mm wide when inflated firmly. Without a tyre the maximum permitted height of a wheel/wheel rim at its tallest point is 230mm and the minimum wheel/wheel rim width is 70mm.

5. The mast must be of circular tube, any cross section of the mast must be circular and no wing sections are allowed on or around the mast.

6. The seat shape must be such that the pilot’s body is always fully exposed from the mast foot rearwards when viewed directly from above.

7. The sail must be free to rotate around the mast with a mast pocket that is constructed of sail cloth, without any stiffener, shape former, camber inducer or other support or shape inducer apart from sail battens.

8. The boom must extend behind / past the pilot’s head. With the sail fully sheeted in and the pilot facing forward, the boom must be able to pass freely over the pilot's head and helmet

9. Sail Control, a maximum of 4 pulley wheels are allowed on any sheet rope used for sail control, one pulley and one end of this sheet rope must be behind the pilot.

10. Forward visibility, for safety the pilot must have unobstructed forward vision at all times and no part of the yacht or sail - apart from the mast or mast supports shall obstruct the forward or side vision of the pilot.

11. No aerodynamic fairing is permitted on any wheel, mast or axle. A simple splash or mud guard is allowed on any front wheel and only on a front wheel.

12. Front wheel : No part of the yacht or the pilot is allowed to go forward of the front wheel centre point.

13. Mast foot, 200mm is the minimum distance between the rear of a Spirit Miniyacht front wheel and the front of a mast.

14. Brake, a Spirit Miniyacht is recommended to have an effective brake.

Illustrations and details are available in PDF format . When racing in NALSA events, all NALSA rules apply when applicable (seatbelts and helmets required, for example)

The US International 5.6 Mini Association is dedicated to promoting sailing and racing of International 5.6 mini yachts in the United States.   Our intentions are to continue to grow the Intl. 5.6 class.   We have created a temporary committee of 5 to handle current and future decisions for the US International 5.6 mini class.   There may be a need for decisions at races, i.e. race course, rolling starts related to wind speed, cart specs. Etc.   Any questions or input should be directed to the committee members:   Allen Mauldin, [email protected] , John Eisenlohr [email protected] , Mike Grimm, [email protected] ,   Burton Grover   [email protected] , and Bob Schumacher [email protected] .         Burton Grover is our NALSA representative with one vote in NALSA, And Burton and John Eisenlohr are our International reps for input on decisions regarding the Int. 5.6 mini.   We also plan on having a Facebook page for discussions and information regarding the 5.6 mini class.   I will continue to send out information to all that I have emails for.   Please send to Allen Mauldin email addresses if you wish to be added.

Email US I 5.6 Mini to join.

Development class could turn heads at Landsailing Worlds

Published on February 19th, 2014 by Editor -->

During the 2014 Landsailing World Championship, which will be held July 12-19 near Austin, Nevada in the USA, there will be several classes gathering to kick dirt on Smith Creek Playa. However, it could be a relatively new class – the International 5.6 Mini – that turns heads with its simplicity and rapid worldwide growth.

The 5.6 Mini has deceptively uncomplicated design rules that allow a lot of innovation. The most interesting rule concerns the platform of the vehicle. Specifically, when the land yacht is on a flat surface, the lower portion of all tires (presumably three) must fit inside a continuous length of small diameter rope 5.6 meters long. This offers the possibility of yachts with long wheelbases and narrow tracks or just the opposite, and everything in between.

Interestingly, the rules do not specify how the 5.6 Mini races will start. The vehicles are small and maneuverable enough, however, that most 5.6 Mini regattas now feature rolling starts, which is very unusual in land yachting.

Smith Creek Playa is very wide compared to beach race courses. As a result, the race committee can optimize the length and depth of the “starting box” in which the Mini yachts circulate during the timed countdown to the start. “We believe Smith Creek’s size offers us the opportunity to have the best big-fleet starts ever held for the 5.6 Mini Class,” stated Dennis Bassano, President of NALSA, the host organization for the regatta.

The 5.6 Mini rules do not mention sail area, which also is unusual, because virtually all other land yacht classes have sail area restrictions. This non-rule means that heavier sailors can use a larger sail if it suits them and essentially permits unlimited sail area, an exciting prospect.

The rules do not specifically prohibit streamlined bodies and “wheel pants” so these features also are increasingly seen on Minis as innovators figure out ways to reduce aerodynamic drag.

It is the simplicity of the class rules that opens the door for some very interesting vehicles, and it is expected that this development class will put on quite a show at the Landsailing World Championship.

Event website: http://www.nalsa.org/Worlds2014Splash.html

5.6 Mini Yacht Rules – Any assembled land or sand yacht that fits inside a continuous loop of rope 5.6 meter long. – The rope must lie on the ground. The touching part of the tires on the ground must fit inside the rope. – The tire size is maximum 400×8 – The mast must be a circular tube; no wing section – It is recommended that a mini yacht has an effective brake.

Report by Russ Foster, NALSA Media Coordinator

Landsailing Background Information

About landsailing : A landsailer or landyacht is a wheeled vehicle with a sail for propulsion and is powered solely by wind. Most landsailers use cloth sails to good effect, but wing sails similar to those on the latest America’s Cup catamarans have been used successfully on landsailers since the early 1980s. Most landsailers have a single mainsail and no headsail (jib).

History of Landsailing : For centuries, wheeled sailing vehicles were employed for commerce. In the 19th century, Europeans began constructing landsailers for pleasure and competition. In the U.S., landsailing got its start in the 1960s, and the North American Landsailing Association (NALSA) was incorporated in 1972 by Don Rypinski.

Modern Landsailing : In Europe, landsailing is primarily practiced on beaches. In the United States, most landsailing occurs on dry lake beds in the deserts of the western U.S. and on beaches. There are thousands of landsailors throughout the world, with national and international competitions.

Landsailing Organizations : The International Federation of Sand and Land Yachting (FISLY) is the organization that oversees the sport worldwide, and it comprises some 20 member organizations which represent the individual countries and classes that compete in landsailing races. Founded in Europe in 1962, FISLY is the rule-making body for the sport, and it oversees and sanctions numerous competitions each year.

About NALSA : FISLY’s American affiliate, the North American Landsailing Association (NALSA) provides similar functions for events held in the U.S. NALSA is an all-volunteer non-profit umbrella organization for landsailing clubs throughout the U.S. Its President is Dennis Bassano of Santa Cruz, CA. It was incorporated in 1972 and each year organizes the America’s Landsailing Cup regatta held in the last week of March on Ivanpah dry lake near Primm, NV at the California/Nevada state line off Interstate 15. NALSA has hosted two previous World Championships at Ivanpah in 1990 and 2002. Landsailing Competition : Many landsailing competitions are held throughout the world each year. Every two years, the World Championship (“the Worlds”) has been held in different host countries-Argentina in 2008, Belgium in 2010 and France in 2012. NALSA will host the 2014 championship July 12th through 19th at Smith Creek Playa near the town of Austin in Northern Nevada. The 2014 World Championship will be the final one before the regatta moves to an every-four-year cycle, so the Worlds probably will not return to the U.S. for at least 20 years. This likely will result in a strong turnout of both international and domestic competitors. 2012 World Championships Facts (France) : Countries competing were Argentina, Australia, Belgium, Brazil, Chile, Czech Republic, Denmark, England, France, Germany, Ireland, Italy, Netherlands, Russia, Scotland, Spain, Switzerland, United States. Number of entrants: 350.

Tags: Landsailing , Landsailing World Championship

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Protei Land Yacht

Introduction: Protei Land Yacht

The aim of this prototype was to develop a wind train from our last model , the Windtrain Umbrella that would have both improved performance and construction. We were more interested in making a single module that functioned well on its own than a long windtrain. In essence we where developing more of a performance land yacht which could be used a basis for our next generation of windtrain.

Step 1: Improvements From Our Last Model

Before we started drawing or planning our new design, we had to make our focus improving the weaknesses of our previous model. The main faults of our last design was that:

- The front wheel was prone to wobbling around due to the front leg of the vehicle being too long and flexible. To solve this problem, we formed the front leg of the vehicle from two 8mm aluminium poles running parallel together. This provided more overall stiffness and prevented the front wheel from rotating too much relative to the vehicle body.

- The design was very flimsy and flexible, we needed to make it more sturdy and rigid. The previous design had a very small wooden frame. This acted as more of a point for the legs to pivot around as opposed to a rigid frame that would make the model a sturdy structure. We therefore wanted to make a larger central wooden frame which would provide a firmer base for all the aluminium rods to extend from. Furthermore the shape of our new design was crucial, we therefore decided to look at alternative designs to the previous umbrella inspired setup.

- The umbrella design had very little room for electronics, therefore another reason warranting a larger wooden frame was the extra space this would allow for the electronics set up and personalisation.

- The connections between the windtrain modules were too long and flexible. This led to the trailing carriages to oscillate a lot, it appeared as if the back module was allowed to resonate as it was dragged along. This is not good for two reasons, it slows down the windtrain and weakens the structure. I therefore needed to make the connection between the modules shorter and stiffer.

- The center of mass of the sail is not aligned with the center of mass of the body of windtrain. As we can see in the picture, the center of mass of sail is about 50cm from the front wheel while the whole body is just 60cm. Although we may not be able to align them in the same line, we should always try to narrow down the distance between them by moving forward the center of mass forward, so that the windtrain can go straight without much effort to control.

Step 2: Design

The design we opted for was to have a larger central platform which would allow a single wheel axle to run through the back of it, two 8mm aluminium rods to run down the length of it (these would form the structure for the front wheel) and a cavity that would act as the foundations of the mast.

The collapsable element was the mast, it would be made up of a telescopic section that could slot on top of a section that was attached to the base frame. The lower section would be mounted to a pivot, thus allowing it to occupy a smaller space for collapsing and moving this vehicle around.

We made a prototype out of cardboard and left over pieces from our previous models as shown above. Furthermore we did some technical drawings to outline the dimensions and main features of the design.

The model would be made out of the following parts:

-5mm thick plywood (the laser file I used occupied a 300x500mm area, but the parts can be rearranged)

-3000mm of 8mm diameter aluminium rods

-Plastic screws and the corresponding

Attachments

Step 3: construction.

-5mm thick plywood (the laser file I used occupied a 300x600mm area, but the parts can be rearranged)

-Plastic screws

-Fabric for a sail (approxiamately 800x300mm)

I made up the laser files, using the drawings I did, and used these to cut out the wooden components for this build. I also had to cut the aluminium rods to the appropriate sizes, 4x600mm and 2x300mm pieces.

From then on I just had to put together the pieces which was done with very little difficulty and all the pieces fitted together nicely. I finally had a completed structure which I could then attach the electronics to. With thsi design I didn't include the electronic components in the planning of the vehicle, I wanted to be able to change elements of the electronics to suit the new design that I had made.

I ended up using the following electronic parts:

-2x Channel RC car controller

-4x AA batteries and battery pack

-2x High torque servos

I then arranged the electronics in the as shown by the pictures. In future models I hoped to integrate the electronics into the frame, but for now I was trialling different arrangements.

Step 4: Test

We went to test the design on a disused bit of land by the waterfront. We were hoping for this location to provide the most wind but unfortunately it was a very calm day. There wasn't sufficient wind to fully test this vehicle, however we had just enough wind to propel the vehicle downwind for short lengths. Another problem of the vehicle was due to the wheel size comp

Step 5: Amendment for a Better Land Yacht!

-How we bend the metal could be made more precise. The existing metal bending is done by bare hands, which means that will not be a good way to do for mass production. Since the means we used now will spend too much time and effort but get a product of less precision, we need to find machines to finish those work for accuracy.

-Integrating the Servos into the Wooden Frame. The position of the servos is not fixed so while the WindTrain is moving, the servos may be in misposition and fall down. We need to find a place and fix its position.

-Making a Taller Sail. The sail now can only capture relatively small wind power to propel, and that make the WindTrain quite slow even though there is homogeneous wind. The larger the sail, the larger the area of it will be and hence the larger wind power it will have.

-Height Adjustment of the Boom. The boom is quite high when we measure the distance from the plane attaching it. Most of the wind will therefore escape from the gap between the plate and the boom. We try to make a taller sail and lower the boom at the same time to increase the wind power captured.

-Let the Sail Servo Sweep in a Different Plane. The sail servo controls a wooden plate to swing in a bid to adjust the sail tension. However, the motion will hinder the swinging motion of the boom in some angles, especially in the wooden plate controlled by the servo is vertical. We will then try to make the sail servo sweep in a different plane, and we think being parallel to the ground is the best choice.

Step 6: Improved Prototype

We decided to act on the issues brought up with the previous model. We therefore redesigned some elements of our previous vehicle to produce a slightly modified update.

The changes made where:

-The laser cutting files were redesigned so that the electronics could be integrated with the frame of the vehicle. Furthermore we changed the plane of sweep for the rear servo by including a cavity for it to sit in.

-The previous model had small wheels that got caught up in cracks and deviations in the test surface. We therefore decided to make the new version with bigger wheels. The radius of the new wheels used was 70mm which was almost double the height of the previous wheels. The back axel could remain the same, but the front wheel fork had to be elongated to allow extra space for the bigger wheel. This was accomplished by a simple change in the laser cut files.

-The sail was made longer, we did this by using two 600mm lengths of aluminium rod instead of the previously used 600mm aluminium rod. We had to remake a sail out of the fabric that could suit these dimensions better.

-The metal was bent using a vice. We secured two identical aluminium rods running parallel in a vice, we then applied a force to adjacent parts of the rods creating a more accurate bend and reducing the difference in the form of the two rods.

-As well as integrating the servos into the base plates, we built a box that would sink into the base plate that would house some of the electronics. This would keep the electronics neatly in one place, as well as providing some protection from the elements.

-To provide more strength in the mast, we added pieces of string between the top of the mast and the extremities of the wheel axels.

-We wanted to make the design more collapsible and easier to transport. We therefore replaced the 8mm wheel axel at the back with a 10mm diameter aluminium rod which was fixed in place. This would then have two 8mm aluminium rods with fixed wheels that could slide in and out of this central rod. This would allow you to pull the wheels out when you want to travel with the landyacht in a way that we though would preserve the strength of the vehicle.

-To allow people to film from an fpv angle, an extra slit was added to the front piece. This would allow you to slot a mobile phone in, secured by rubber bands, to record or stream an fpv video of your ride.

Step 7: Test 2

Due to a lack of wind we set up a fan in the workshop to test this prototype.

-The new wheel axels did not compromise any strength or rigidity of the main frame, but they added extra width and fulfilled the desire for a collapsible system.

-The string attached to the top of the mast added a lot more strength in the mast. It reduced the amount of flex in the mast and removed some of the force acting on the connection at the base of the mast.

-The box housed the electronics very well although the parts rattled around within the box, and the corners of the box caught the main sheet.

-The extra slot for the phone allowed for a very smooth and clear video, however it was too low relative to the front wheel. This meant that the front wheel was the main focus of the video and occupied most of the screen.

Step 8: Improvements

Although our previous design ran well, we wanted to improve the following features.

-The box will be designed so that the baseplate of the main frame will form the base of the box. This will save weight and the need to manufacture extra pieces. Furthermore we are making the top of the box hinged as to make it more secure and rigid when the vehicle is moving around.

-The peg that the main sheet runs through is going to be elongated so that the hole is above the top of the box. This will reduce the chance of the mainsheet getting caught on the corners of the box. Also the peg will be made wider as to add strength to it and allow for wearing down of the wood over time.

-The string that was used to add lateral support to the mast will be replaced by steel cables. These will add more strength and will be secured in a different manner. The string was secure to the wheel axels by masking tape, which over time weakens and tears. Therefore we are looking at drilling holes in the axels and using screws and loops to secure the new cables.

-The electronics had a tendency to rattle around in the box, we are therefore adding a sheet of velcro to the base of the box. The electrical components can then be secured to the base of the box with small pieces of velcro. The velcro will be cheap and accessible, whilst allowing for customisation of the product.

-Although the phone mount worked to some degree for my model of phone, we want to make a more versatile platform that can be adapted for other filming devices. We are therefore researching the possibility of securing a tripod mount or ball and joint to the front rods or the the front of the base plate. This would allow for people to add their own mounts as well as providing a platform that can work with a greater range of devices.

Step 9: Summary

We have decided to stick with this final prototype. We are therefore looking into the availability and accessibility of the following parts required:

8mm Diameter Aluminium rods (total=2825mm): -3x600mm -2x400mm -125mm -100mm

10mm Diameter Aluminium rods (total=1040mm): -140mm -2x150mm -2x300mm

3x120mm Diameter Scooter Wheels + 6xBearings

250x160mm 4mm Thick Acrylic

Masking tape

280x610mm 5mm thick plywood

2200mm String Or 2200mm Steel Cable/Wire + 2xEnd Clamps/Fasteners

400mm String

1100x650mm Sail Fabric

22xPlastic Screws

2xFusonic MG-A-15KG Servos + Servo Heads

1x4AA Battery Pack

Furthermore we would like some feedback from people regarding our design and its potential uses. We have already handed a deconstructed model to a group of under 10 kids, and with no instructions left them to figure it out as shown. We now want to see how easy it is for others to understand, and the ways people modify and use it themselves.

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Exploring the Allure of Mini Yachts for Sale: Unveiling Hanover Yachts’ Luxurious Offerings

• July 17, 2023
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Strange Glow Over Moscow Skies Triggers Panic as Explosions Reported

B right flashes lit up the night sky in southern Moscow in the early hours of Thursday morning, new footage appears to show, following reports of an explosion at an electrical substation on the outskirts of the city.

Video snippets circulating on Russian-language Telegram channels show a series of flashes on the horizon of a cloudy night sky, momentarily turning the sky a number of different colors. In a clip shared by Russian outlet MSK1.ru, smoke can be seen rising from a building during the flashes lighting up the scene.

Newsweek was unable to independently verify the details of the video clips, including when and where it was filmed. The Russian Ministry of Emergency situations has been contacted via email.

Several Russian Telegram accounts said early on Thursday that residents of southern Moscow reported an explosion and a fire breaking out at an electrical substation in the Leninsky district, southeast of central Moscow.

Local authorities in the Leninsky district told Russian outlet RBC that the explosion had happened in the village of Molokovo. "All vital facilities are operating as normal," Leninsky district officials told the outlet.

The incident at the substation in Molokovo took place just before 2 a.m. local time, MSK1.ru reported.

Messages published by the ASTRA Telegram account, run by independent Russian journalists, appear to show residents close to the substation panicking as they question the bright flashes in the sky. One local resident describes seeing the bright light before losing access to electricity, with another calling the incident a "nightmare."

More than 10 villages and towns in the southeast of Moscow lost access to electricity, the ASTRA Telegram account also reported. The town of Lytkarino to the southeast of Moscow, lost electricity, wrote the eastern European-based independent outlet, Meduza.

Outages were reported in the southern Domodedovo area of the city, according to another Russian outlet, as well as power failures in western Moscow. Electricity was then restored to the areas, the Strana.ua outlet reported.

The cause of the reported explosion is not known. A Telegram account aggregating news for the Lytkarino area described the incident as "an ordinary accident at a substation."

The MSK1.ru outlet quoted a local resident who speculated that a drone may have been responsible for the explosion, but no other Russian source reported this as a possible cause.

Ukraine has repeatedly targeted Moscow with long-range aerial drones in recent months, including a dramatic wave of strikes in late May.

On Sunday, Moscow Mayor Sergei Sobyanin said the region's air defense systems had intercepted an aerial drone over the city of Elektrostal, to the east of Moscow. No damage or casualties were reported, he said.

The previous day, Russian air defenses detected and shot down another drone flying over the Bogorodsky district, northeast of central Moscow, Sobyanin said.

There is currently no evidence that an aerial drone was responsible for the reported overnight explosion at the electrical substation in southern Moscow.

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Mini hotel comfort, choose dates to view prices, photo gallery for mini hotel comfort.

Overview of Mini Hotel Comfort

Exceptional, property highlights.

• Free parking
• Laundry facilities
• Air conditioning
• 24/7 front desk

Main amenities

• Daily housekeeping
• 24-hour front desk
• Luggage storage
• Lockers available

Feel at home

• Refrigerator
• Private bathroom
• Washer/dryer
• Flat-panel TV
• Free self parking

Room options

Premium double room, view all photos for business double room.

Business Double Room

View all photos for economy double room.

Economy Double Room

About the neighborhood, what's nearby.

• Mega Belaya Dacha - 14 min walk
• Moscow Kremlin - 24 min drive
• Red Square - 27 min drive
• St. Basil's Cathedral - 27 min drive
• Bolshoi Theatre - 28 min drive

Getting around

• Moscow (DME-Domodedovo Intl.) - 40 min drive
• Zhukovsky (ZIA) - 46 min drive
• Sheremetyevo Intl. Airport (SVO) - 56 min drive
• Podolsk (OSF-Ostafyevo) - 61 min drive
• Moscow (VKO-Vnukovo Intl.) - 66 min drive
• Lyubertsy-1 Station - 8 min drive
• Lyubertsy Panki Station - 9 min drive
• Moscow Ukhtomskaya Station - 10 min drive
• Kotelniki - 19 min walk

About this property

At a glance, arriving/leaving.

• Check-in start time: noon; Check-in end time: midnight
• Minimum check-in age: 18
• Check-out time is noon

Restrictions related to your trip

• Check COVID-19 restrictions.

Special check-in instructions

• Front desk staff will greet guests on arrival

Required at check-in

• Credit card, debit card, or cash deposit required for incidental charges
• Government-issued photo ID may be required
• Minimum check-in age is 18
• If you require a visa to enter the country, your property may be able to help with the supporting documents needed to obtain one*
• Russian citizens: Adults (aged 14 and over) must present a valid internal passport at check-in (international Russian passports and driver's licenses are not accepted). Birth certificates must be presented for all Russian children (aged under 14) at check-in. If a Russian relative or legal guardian (rather than a parent) is traveling in Russia with a child under 14, that relative or legal guardian is also required to present documentation certifying authority to accompany child at check-in. Non-Russian citizens: Adults and children must present a valid passport, visa, and migration card at check-in.
• No cribs (infant beds)
• Pets not allowed
• Free WiFi in public areas
• Free WiFi in rooms
• Free onsite self parking

Other information

• Designated smoking areas (fines apply)

Property amenities

Room amenities, be entertained.

• Flat-screen television

Home comfort

• Iron/ironing board (on request)
• Washer and dryer
• Bed sheets provided
• Shower only

Stay connected

• Free local calls

Food and drink

Fees & policies, also known as, frequently asked questions.

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