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The Perfect Wind Speed for Sailing – How Much Wind Do You Really Need? ANSWERED

If you’re new to sailing, you might be wondering what the best sailing wind speed is. It seems like an easy question, but the question strikes at the heart of the things that go into sailing a boat and being a good skipper. 

Of course, there is no one perfect wind speed for sailing. Every skipper on the ocean will have a different answer. One will like the smooth and steady ride they get from their coastal cruiser when the wind blows at 12 knots. Another, sailing heavy offshore boats, won’t even bother putting the sails up with a minimum wind speed of 12 knots or less—but they don’t start having fun until it’s 18-20 knots. 

But there’s even more! Those same two skippers might be handed those conditions one day and still complain! Now, 12 knots of wind on the nose means hours of tacking or running the motor for the coastal cruiser. The offshore sailor isn’t making enough progress downwind in 18 knots because the seas have built up too high from a storm and the ride is rough. On this day, neither skipper is happy with their usual comfortable sailing setup!

Table of Contents

What is the ideal wind speed for sailing, wind speed in knots vs mph, the beaufort wind scale, true vs apparent wind on sailboats, good sailing wind speed for sailing upwind vs downwind, boat displacement and agility, sailing in various weather conditions and wind speeds, sail selection, the importance of reefing, wind speed and risk management, faqs — best wind speed for sailing.

To answer this question, we must make a few assumptions.

• You’re new to sailing and gaining experience 
• You’re on a moderate-sized cruising boat, not a dinghy or a racer
• You’re looking to make miles and travel, not enjoy a lazy day on the water
• You are more interested in the comfort of your crew than getting there as fast as possible

In other words, this article assumes that you’re the average cruising sailor, traveling for pleasure to see the world by boat. So, if you are a weekend warrior out for the annual small boat race on the river, you might have completely different answers!

If these assumptions apply to you, you’ll probably find that the best sailing days are when the wind blows between 10 and 15 knots. This is enough wind to move even the heaviest boats, although not always very fast. It’s also a safe speed that any cruising-sized boat can handle easily, with the sails still being easy to handle and the boat easy to steer.

As you gain experience you will expand your comfort zone, as long as you boat safely and continue having fun. Once the winds start getting above 25 knots, even many experienced sailors will stay in port. High winds mean more serious training and large waves. When you’re in it for the fun, you’ll likely opt for the most comfortable sailing days, not the most challenging.

How are Wind Speeds Measured?

Before discussing the best wind speed for sailing, we should agree on how to measure the wind speed and look at how sailors get these numbers and interpret them.

One important consideration is how you get your information. For example, many boaters use apps and websites to calculate wind speed from global weather models like the GFS or the ECMWF. The problem with these numbers is that they are forecasts made on many assumptions and estimations that may not be perfect. They are especially limited in places where land interactions can drastically change the local wind patterns.

Besides weather forecasts, boats can get their wind measurements from buoy observations or their own boat’s anemometers (wind vanes). But anemometers have limitations too, and they are often not calibrated very well. Their location makes a big difference, too, since most weather forecasts and official observations are made for 10 meters off the water. So a deck-level wind vane will read a different number than a masthead-mounted unit.

Finally, there’s also the difference between stead winds and gusts. There seem to be many sailors who look at the steady wind forecast and ignore the gusts and then complain about how much windier it was than the forecast stated! 

Remember when thinking about wind speeds for sailing to compare apples to apples. Nearly everything you measure on a boat is in knots—your speed over ground, hull speed, and the wind speeds you should put in a reef. So if your weather app is feeding you the information in miles per hour (MPH), do yourself a favor and eliminate the confusion. See if you can find an app that makes the conversion for you, or remember that 1 knot is equal to 1.15 statute miles per hour.

The Beaufort scale is an old system for measuring wind speed based on the conditions that a sailor can observe out on the water. After all, our focus on the precise wind speed as displayed on a digital indicator is a modern fixation. Sailors have been plying the seas for generations without that technology, although having access to the information has undoubtedly made traveling by sea much safer.

Still, the wind scale helps understand the realms of wind speed and the associated conditions in each. It is not just the wind that should concern a sailor. They must also consider the sea state–the height of wind-blown waves plus the ocean swell. 

The Beaufort scale is measured from 0 (dead calm) to 12 (survival storm conditions or hurricane). Distinct changes in the sea state mark each force. Knowing the Beaufort forces enables a sailor to estimate the wind force in knots without an instrument. 

There’s a big difference between the wind on the water and the wind on the boat. This concept is the definition of “apparent wind.” Apparent wind is that which is felt on the deck of the boat. It changes dramatically depending on the boat’s speed and direction. The opposite of apparent wind is “true wind,” which is the wind speed and direction on the water, without the effects of the boat.

It’s best explained through an example. Let’s imagine a hypothetical sailboat that can sail in any direction—even directly into the wind. Maybe it’s not sailing–it’s just motoring! 

The wind is blowing out of the north at 10 knots. Our sailboat makes 5 knots—no matter which direction it is going.

If the boat is pointed north and directly into the wind, the apparent wind felt on the boat’s deck is 15 knots—10 knots of wind PLUS 5 knots of motor/sailing power. This is the wind in its sails, the breeze on your face, and everything else. Since 15 knots is a better speed to sail a boat, an upwind sail probably feels pretty good and might be called a “good working breeze.” 

What if the boat turned around and went south? Then the apparent wind on deck would be only 5 knots—10 knots of wind MINUS 5 knots of sailing speed. It’s worth noting that most cruising boats do not sail well in winds less than 10 knots and probably will not be making way in winds of 5 or less.

And finally, what if the boat were on a beam reach, headed either due east or west? The apparent wind would be 10 knots since there is no component of the vessel’s speed to add or subtract. 

For all points in between, the apparent wind would be something between 15 (maximum) and 5 (minimum). The exact amount would depend on how close to the wind direction the boat is maneuvering. 

How Much Wind Do You Need to Sail?

The glimpse into the apparent wind in the example above probably provides clues as to how complicated the question of wind speed is on a boat. Now, let’s look at some of the other factors that play into this calculus.

The example above demonstrates that the best wind speeds for sailing depend significantly on the direction you’re going. There’s an adage—A sailor cannot change the wind, but they can adjust their sails. It’s just one more example of why traveling on a sailboat is challenging.

Generally, if you need to sail to a downwind destination, more true wind is favorable. This is because your apparent wind will be lower, so it takes more true wind to move the boat. Additionally, downwind sails are generally more comfortable anyway, since you are sailing with following seas and not pounding into it. 

In our example above, a cruising boat trying to make miles probably could not be headed south without running its motor. If they were headed due north, they’d either have to tack back and forth , motor into the wind, or perhaps motor sail. 

The opposite is true about sailing into the wind. If you’re on a beat, the best wind speed for your sail may be just enough to get the boat near its hull speed. Anything more may produce seas that slow the boat down.

Some of these effects have everything to do with the boat you’re standing on. Every sailboat in the world was designed for a specific set of circumstances. Some are designed very light with lots of sail area, while others are heavier to provide softer rides in rough seas and carry a lot of weight. Know your boat and know what it can and can’t do. Don’t expect a heavily laden, full keel ocean cruiser to sail downwind in 5 knots of apparent wind. 

The choices might be different on a race boat that sails well in light air. The boat might have a large spinnaker, be lightly built and lightly loaded, and be able to sail well downwind in 5 knots of apparent wind. Sailing upwind, it might have better tacking angles and make better VMG (velocity made good, the speed at which you head directly towards your destination). Of course, this boat can travel faster, but it likely can’t hold all your stuff and allow you to live comfortably.

You can draw the same similarities in the catamaran and multihull sailing world. Just because it’s a catamaran does not mean that it will always sail fast. Many cruising catamarans are heavy, especially those that have been kitted out for living aboard. It might win a race with the monohull above sailing downwind in 5 knots of wind. Where the monohull is ghosting along at 2 knots, the cruising catamaran might be doing 2.5 or 3 knots. 

A look at the Beaufort wind scale provides another glimpse into factors that affect sailors. In anything more than a fresh breeze, the sea state begins playing a prominent part of the wind speed equation. The sea is constantly changing, and driving a sailboat up and down mountainous seas is like driving a car over hilly roads. The boat will slow down going uphill and surf down the wave quickly as it slides downhill. 

But a lot of that depends on the timing of the seas. During big storms, seas build up for hundreds of miles in the open ocean and have a big period between them. So big ocean swells might not have much effect on a boat’s progress.

But many times in near-shore waters and places with currents, wind-driven waves pile up. When the wave period (measured in seconds) is equal or less to the wave height, they are called square waves. Square waves produce a very uncomfortable chop that can slow the progress of even the stoutest sailboat.

Regardless of the wave’s shape, the quality of the ride is important inside the vessel. A rough ride can be invigorating and fun if out sailing for an afternoon. But, if sailing overnight, rough seas taken too fast can become uncomfortable. On extended passage, you must take crew fatigue into account. 

The takeaway is this—when figuring out the best wind speed for sailing, the choice can’t be made while ignoring the sea state. The perfect wind speed for sailing on a calm, protected bay might be way too much for open water, or you might need to begin reefing sooner. 

Finally, all boats are limited by the sails they have onboard. Most cruising sailors make do with a standard mainsail and a furling jib or genoa. Without adding a foresail designed explicitly for light airs, like an asymmetrical spinnaker, gennaker, or code zero, the boat will likely need 15-20 knots of true wind to sail at hull speed downwind. 

On the other end of the spectrum, some boats might be risky to take out in conditions beyond a strong breeze without adding robust storm sails. Furling sails can and do come unfurled unexpectedly, and most furling systems are not built to withstand gale or storm-force conditions without careful use and constant inspections for chafe. 

All of this highlights another vital topic in sailing— how to reef a sail . The ability to shorten sails to operate safely in higher winds is an integral part of negotiating the variety of conditions you will encounter on the water. 

If you’re a day sailor, it’s possible you could pick your conditions and never have to reef. But reefing is essentially good boat handling—it is the ability to drive the car without having the “pedal to the metal” all the time. Controlling the power your sails make will make the boat sail better. It will reduce weather helm, excessive heeling, and in some cases, can increase your speed by increasing efficiency.

In summary, what is the ideal wind speed for sailing? The answer is—it depends! It depends on your boat, your skill and experience, on the conditions on the water, on the direction you’re going, and probably many other things not listed here. 

The fundamental takeaway should be this—as you grow as a sailor, you must learn to handle your boat in various realistic conditions. But at some point, the risk of danger outweighs the benefits. At 10 knots, the risks are low. At 20 knots, most cruising boats can handle almost anything, but reefing is a good idea. At 30 knots, if you aren’t reefed and in control, things can go bad quickly. Finally, at 40 knots of wind or more, you should be heavily reefed for heavy weather. 

One parting thought–remember that boating isn’t always about sailing. Most of us have to return to a crowded marina and a tight slip after a sporty day of sailing, and most sailboats are not great when being handled in close quarters. So until you’ve had some safe high wind close-quarters maneuvering in your boat, make sure conditions will allow you to dock safely.

What is the best wind speed for sailing?

The best wind for sailing is the one that propels the boat without using the motor in the direction you want to go, which provides a comfortable and safe ride. 

Unfortunately, no sailor can control the speed of the wind for sailing. So instead, sailors learn to control what they can. They can put out or take in sail, they can set a different course, they can start their motors, or they can stay in port and go sailing another day. 

How windy is too windy for sailing?

It depends on your boat and your experience level. With its sails reefed, you can safely sail most cruising sailboats in winds up to 30 knots. Beyond the 30 knot line, most pleasure sailors will choose to stay in port to avoid the rough ride and extra work it will take to handle the boat. However, the number is arbitrary since every boat and every skipper is different.

Is 10 mph wind good for sailing?

Ten miles per hour (8.6 knots) of wind is a good wind speed to learn to sail. It is enough wind to fill the sails and provide power for the boat to move, but the control lines will be lightly loaded. The boat will be moving at a leisurely and pleasant pace in most cases. 

It does depend on the boat’s size and direction, however. In light winds like 10 mph, downwind sailing in a big boat will be very slow. So 10 mph is fun for a day on the water and suitable for sailing lessons and dinghy sailing, but not quite enough for quick travel by sailboat if you’re trying to get somewhere.

Is 15 mph wind strong for boating?

In the open ocean, 15 mph (13 knots) of wind is described as a moderate breeze. You can expect small waves of one to four feet to form. This is likely a nice day on the water for sailboats and larger powerboats. Small boats, however, may find the conditions very rough. Of course, local conditions like those found in an inlet could be unsafe for even a bigger boat in a 15 mph wind, so always seek local knowledge when boating in unfamiliar waters. Alternatively, 15 mph wind on a protected body of water like a lake or bay may produce only a light chop and be an ideal wind speed.

Matt has been boating around Florida for over 25 years in everything from small powerboats to large cruising catamarans. He currently lives aboard a 38-foot Cabo Rico sailboat with his wife Lucy and adventure dog Chelsea. Together, they cruise between winters in The Bahamas and summers in the Chesapeake Bay.

How Much Wind is Too Much For Boating

Do you love the free­dom of boat­ing? Want to know when it’s safe to set sail and when it’s time to stay on land? Dis­cov­er how much wind is too much for boat­ing in this arti­cle. We’ll explore the impact of wind on boat han­dling, share safe­ty pre­cau­tions for windy con­di­tions, and pro­vide tips for nav­i­gat­ing in strong winds.

Stay in con­trol and keep your adven­tures afloat with our expert advice.

Key Take­aways:

• Wind speeds o f 15 knots or high­er sig­nif­i­cant­ly impact boat han­dling and con­trol.
• Prop­er sail trim­ming and adjust­ing sails and course are cru­cial in windy con­di­tions.
• Observe wind speed and direc­tion before set­ting sail , tak­ing into account poten­tial gusts.
• Always pri­or­i­tize safe­ty and wear appro­pri­ate safe­ty gear in windy boat­ing con­di­tions.

Table of Con­tents

Understanding Wind Speed and Its Impact on Boating

You need to under­stand wind speed and how it affects boat­ing. When you’re out on the water, the wind can be your great­est ally or your worst ene­my. It has the pow­er to pro­pel your boat for­ward, allow­ing you to sail freely and effort­less­ly. How­ev­er, if the wind is too strong, it can cre­ate dan­ger­ous con­di­tions that can put your free­dom at risk.

Wind speed is mea­sured in knots, with one knot equal­ing one nau­ti­cal mile per hour. The high­er the knot val­ue, the stronger the wind. As a boater, it’s impor­tant to be aware of the wind speed before set­ting sail . This infor­ma­tion can be obtained from weath­er reports or by using an anemome­ter, a device that mea­sures wind speed.

Under­stand­ing wind speed is cru­cial because it direct­ly impacts your boat’s per­for­mance. A light breeze of around 5–10 knots is ide­al for a leisure­ly sail. It pro­vides a pleas­ant expe­ri­ence, allow­ing you to enjoy the free­dom of being on the open water. How­ev­er, as the wind speed increas­es, so does the chal­lenge. Strong winds of 20 knots or more can make maneu­ver­ing your boat dif­fi­cult and poten­tial­ly dan­ger­ous.

Is 20mph wind bad for boat­ing

It depends on the size of the boat and the expe­ri­ence of the crew . Gen­er­al­ly speak­ing , winds of 20mph can make for chal­leng­ing sail­ing con­di­tions and can cause chop­py waters . It would be wise for inex­pe­ri­enced bo aters to stay ashore if the wind reach­es 20 mph , as these con­di­tions can be dif­fi­cult to han­dle . Exper ienced boat crews should use extra cau­tion and should be aware of the poten­tial for waves and wind gust s . For more info check how does a sail­boat sail into the wind .

Wind Speed and Boating

The first thing to con­sid­er when it comes to wind and boat­ing is wind speed. The wind speed should be tak­en into account when decid­ing whether or not it is safe to go out on the water. Wind speeds that are too high can cause dan­ger­ous con­di­tions, such as high waves, strong cur­rents, and reduced vis­i­bil­i­ty. Here’s what you need to know about wind speed and boat­ing:

Wind Speed and Boat Size

The size of your boat should be tak­en into con­sid­er­a­tion when deter­min­ing what wind speed is safe for boat­ing. Small­er boats can be eas­i­ly tossed around by the wind and waves, so it is impor­tant to be aware of wind speed and adjust accord­ing­ly. Gen­er­al­ly, winds of 10–15 knots (11–17 mph) can be safe for small boats, while larg­er boats can han­dle stronger winds.

Wind Speed and Sea Conditions

The sea con­di­tions should also be tak­en into con­sid­er­a­tion when deter­min­ing what wind speed is safe for boat­ing. If the sea is chop­py, it can be more dif­fi­cult to maneu­ver a boat and the waves can cre­ate a more dan­ger­ous sit­u­a­tion. In these cas­es, the wind speed should be much low­er than if the sea was calm. Winds of 5–10 knots (5.7–11.5 mph) can be con­sid­ered safe for chop­py sea con­di­tions.

Wind Speed and Personal Experience

When it comes to boat­ing, each person’s expe­ri­ence and com­fort lev­el will be dif­fer­ent. If you are an expe­ri­enced boater, you may be able to han­dle high­er wind speeds than some­one who is just start­ing out. If you are not sure about your expe­ri­ence lev­el, it is best to err on the side of cau­tion and stick with low­er wind speeds.

Weather Forecasting

When it comes to boat­ing, weath­er fore­cast­ing is an impor­tant tool. By check­ing the weath­er fore­cast before head­ing out on the water , you can get an idea of what the wind speed is going to be. This can help you make an informed deci­sion about whether or not it is safe to go out on the water.

Wind Direction

In addi­tion to wind speed, the wind direc­tion should also be tak­en into con­sid­er­a­tion when boat­ing. Winds that are blow­ing in the same direc­tion as the cur­rent can cre­ate strong waves and make it dif­fi­cult to steer a boat. It is impor­tant to be aware of wind direc­tion and make sure that you are not head­ing into an area with strong winds.

Emergency Plan

It is also impor­tant to have an emer­gency plan in place before head­ing out on the water. This should include a plan for what to do if the boat cap­sizes or if some­one falls over­board. It is impor­tant to make sure that every­one on board is famil­iar with the plan and knows what to do in case of an emer­gency.

It is impor­tant to make sure that you have the right safe­ty equip­ment on board your boat. This should include life jack­ets for every­one, a first aid kit, and a dis­tress sig­nal. It is also impor­tant to make sure that every­one on board is famil­iar with the safe­ty pro­ce­dures for the boat.

Make sure that the boat is in good con­di­tion before head­ing out on the water. This means check­ing the hull and engine for any signs of dam­age or wear. If any main­te­nance is need­ed, it should be done before head­ing out. Prop­er main­te­nance can help to pre­vent acci­dents and ensure that the boat is in good work­ing order.

The Effects of Wind on Boat Handling and Control

When wind speeds reach 15 knots or high­er, it can sig­nif­i­cant­ly impact your abil­i­ty to han­dle and con­trol your boat. The effects of wind on boat han­dling and con­trol can be chal­leng­ing, but with the right knowl­edge and skills, you can nav­i­gate through it smooth­ly. Here are a few things to keep in mind:

• Increased resis­tance : As the wind picks up, it cre­ates more resis­tance against your boat, mak­ing it hard­er to maneu­ver. You may need to adjust your course and speed to coun­ter­act the force of the wind.
• Sail trim­ming : Prop­er­ly trim­ming your sails becomes cru­cial in windy con­di­tions. Adjust­ing the sail angle and ten­sion can help you main­tain con­trol and pre­vent the boat from heel­ing exces­sive­ly.
• Gusts and lulls : Wind gusts can come sud­den­ly and with great force, caus­ing your boat to heel or veer off course. Antic­i­pat­ing these gusts and adjust­ing your sails and course accord­ing­ly is essen­tial. On the oth­er hand, lulls in the wind can also affect your con­trol, requir­ing you to make adjust­ments to main­tain momen­tum.

Assessing Wind Conditions for Safe Boating

Assess­ing wind con­di­tions and deter­min­ing the appro­pri­ate lev­el of wind for safe boat­ing can be cru­cial for a suc­cess­ful and enjoy­able out­ing on the water. As some­one who desires free­dom, you want to make sure you have the free­dom to nav­i­gate the waters with­out any unnec­es­sary risks.

To assess the wind con­di­tions, start by observ­ing the speed and direc­tion of the wind. Use a hand­held anemome­ter or sim­ply feel the wind on your face. Keep in mind that wind speed can vary at dif­fer­ent heights, so it’s impor­tant to assess the wind at the lev­el where you’ll be oper­at­ing your boat.

In addi­tion to wind speed, also con­sid­er the poten­tial gusts. Gusts can be sud­den and strong, mak­ing it dif­fi­cult to con­trol your boat. If you notice fre­quent gusts, it may be a sign that the wind con­di­tions are too strong for safe boat­ing.

Final­ly, take into account your own boat­ing expe­ri­ence and skill lev­el. Even if the wind con­di­tions seem man­age­able, if you’re a begin­ner or not con­fi­dent in your abil­i­ties, it may be best to wait for calmer con­di­tions.

Essential Safety Precautions in Windy Boating Conditions

To ensure your safe­ty, it’s impor­tant to fol­low essen­tial pre­cau­tions when boat­ing in windy con­di­tions. The thrill of the wind in your hair as you nav­i­gate the open waters is an exhil­a­rat­ing expe­ri­ence, but it’s cru­cial to pri­or­i­tize safe­ty at all times. Here are some essen­tial safe­ty mea­sures to keep in mind:

• Check the weath­er fore­cast : Before set­ting sail, always check the weath­er fore­cast. Windy con­di­tions can quick­ly esca­late, and it’s impor­tant to be aware of any poten­tial storms or gusts that could pose a risk to your boat­ing adven­ture.
• Secure all loose items : Strong winds can cause items to fly around on the boat, pos­ing a dan­ger to both you and your fel­low pas­sen­gers. Make sure to secure loose items such as cool­ers, fish­ing gear, and per­son­al belong­ings before set­ting off.
• Wear appro­pri­ate safe­ty gear : In windy con­di­tions, it’s cru­cial to wear appro­pri­ate safe­ty gear such as life jack­ets, hats, and sun­glass­es. These items won’t only pro­tect you from poten­tial acci­dents but also shield you from the sun and wind.

By fol­low­ing these essen­tial safe­ty pre­cau­tions, you can enjoy the free­dom and excite­ment of boat­ing in windy con­di­tions while ensur­ing your safe­ty and the safe­ty of those around you.

Tips for Maneuvering and Navigating in Windy Conditions

To effec­tive­ly nav­i­gate in windy con­di­tions, keep your steer­ing steady and your eyes focused on the direc­tion ahead. Main­tain­ing a steady course is cru­cial in windy con­di­tions as it allows you to main­tain con­trol of your boat. Trust your instincts and feel the wind’s direc­tion and inten­si­ty. Adjust your sails or motor accord­ing­ly to main­tain sta­bil­i­ty and con­trol. It’s impor­tant to antic­i­pate gusts and adjust your speed accord­ing­ly. Slow­ing down can help you main­tain sta­bil­i­ty and pre­vent your boat from being pushed off course.

When nav­i­gat­ing in strong winds, it’s essen­tial to pay atten­tion to your sur­round­ings. Keep an eye out for oth­er boats, obsta­cles, and changes in water con­di­tions. Stay alert and be pre­pared to make quick deci­sions to avoid poten­tial haz­ards. Look for shel­tered areas or nat­ur­al bar­ri­ers that can pro­vide some relief from the wind. Uti­lize these areas to your advan­tage and nav­i­gate through them when­ev­er pos­si­ble.

Com­mu­ni­cate with your crew and estab­lish clear com­mu­ni­ca­tion sig­nals. This will help you coor­di­nate maneu­vers and respond quick­ly to chang­ing con­di­tions. Keep your crew informed about the wind direc­tion and any poten­tial haz­ards.

When to Decide It’s Too Windy for Boating

Decid­ing if it’s too windy for boat­ing can be chal­leng­ing, but you need to con­sid­er the safe­ty of your­self and your pas­sen­gers. While it’s tempt­ing to head out on the water and feel the free­dom of the wind in your hair, it’s impor­tant to make wise choic­es to avoid any poten­tial dan­gers. So, how do you know when it’s time to call off your boat­ing adven­ture? Take a look at the table below to help you assess the wind con­di­tions and make an informed deci­sion.

How do I determine if the wind is too strong for boating?

The wind speed is a key fac­tor in deter­min­ing whether it’s safe to go boat­ing. As a gen­er­al guide­line, winds exceed­ing 20 knots (23 mph) are con­sid­ered strong and can make boat­ing chal­leng­ing and poten­tial­ly unsafe. It’s impor­tant to mon­i­tor weath­er fore­casts and use your judg­ment based on your boat’s size, your expe­ri­ence lev­el, and the spe­cif­ic con­di­tions of the water­body you’re plan­ning to nav­i­gate.

Can I go boating in moderate wind conditions?

Boat­ing in mod­er­ate wind con­di­tions is gen­er­al­ly safe, but it’s essen­tial to con­sid­er your com­fort lev­el, the size and type of your boat, and your expe­ri­ence as a boater. Mod­er­ate winds can cre­ate some chop­py waters and may require addi­tion­al cau­tion, espe­cial­ly for small­er boats. Always assess the wind speed and direc­tion before head­ing out and be pre­pared to adjust your plans if the con­di­tions wors­en.

Are there any specific wind speed limits for boating?

While there are no uni­ver­sal­ly defined wind speed lim­its for boat­ing, it’s impor­tant to be aware of any local reg­u­la­tions or guide­lines in your area. Some regions may have spe­cif­ic restric­tions or rec­om­men­da­tions based on wind speeds or weath­er con­di­tions.

When it comes to boat­ing, it is impor­tant to be aware of the wind speed and con­di­tions. Winds that are too strong can cause dan­ger­ous con­di­tions on the water, from strong waves to reduced vis­i­bil­i­ty. It is impor­tant to be aware of wind speed and direc­tion, and make sure that you have the right safe­ty equip­ment on board. By fol­low­ing these guide­lines, you can make sure that you stay safe while out on the water.

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How to read the wind and adjust your sails

Mastering the art of reading the wind and adjusting your sails is essential for safe and efficient sailing, and will greatly enhance your enjoyment of the open sea.

How to Read the Wind and Adjust Your Sails

Welcome to our Sailing Basics section! In this article, we’ll be discussing one of the most fundamental skills you’ll need to master as you embark on your sailing adventure: reading the wind and adjusting your sails accordingly. This skill is essential for efficient and safe sailing, and it will greatly enhance your enjoyment of the open sea.

As you set sail with your family, you’ll quickly discover that the wind is both your greatest ally and your most challenging obstacle. Learning to harness its power and navigate its unpredictability is a rewarding and exhilarating experience. So, let’s dive in and explore the art of reading the wind and adjusting your sails.

Table of Contents

Understanding the wind, reading the wind, sail trim basics, adjusting your sails for different points of sail, fine-tuning your sail trim.

Before we discuss how to read the wind, it’s important to understand some basic concepts about the wind itself. Wind is the movement of air from areas of high pressure to areas of low pressure. It is influenced by various factors, such as temperature, humidity, and the Earth’s rotation.

There are two types of wind that you’ll encounter while sailing:

True Wind : This is the actual wind that you feel when you’re standing still. It is the wind that is blowing across the Earth’s surface, unaffected by your boat’s movement.

Apparent Wind : This is the wind that you feel while you’re sailing. It is a combination of the true wind and the wind created by your boat’s movement through the water. As you sail faster, the apparent wind will shift forward and increase in strength.

Understanding the difference between true and apparent wind is crucial for reading the wind and adjusting your sails correctly.

Now that we’ve covered the basics of wind, let’s discuss how to read it while you’re sailing. There are several methods you can use to determine the wind’s direction and strength:

Wind Indicators : These are devices mounted on your boat that help you determine the wind’s direction. Examples include wind vanes, which are mounted at the top of the mast, and telltales, which are small pieces of yarn or ribbon attached to the shrouds or sails. By observing the movement of these indicators, you can determine the wind’s direction relative to your boat.

Flags and Banners : If you’re sailing near land, you can often use flags, banners, or other wind-sensitive objects to gauge the wind’s direction and strength.

Water Surface : Observing the water’s surface can also provide valuable information about the wind. Look for ripples, waves, and whitecaps, which can indicate the wind’s direction and strength.

Feel the Wind : As you gain experience, you’ll develop a sense for the wind’s direction and strength by simply feeling it on your face and body. This is an invaluable skill that will serve you well as you progress in your sailing journey.

Now that we’ve discussed how to read the wind, let’s move on to the art of adjusting your sails. Sail trim is the process of adjusting the angle and shape of your sails to maximize their efficiency and harness the wind’s power. Proper sail trim is essential for maintaining control of your boat and achieving optimal speed and performance.

Here are some basic principles of sail trim that you should keep in mind:

Sail Angle : The angle of your sails relative to the wind is crucial for harnessing its power. In general, you’ll want to position your sails so that they’re perpendicular to the wind when sailing downwind and at a narrower angle when sailing upwind.

Sail Shape : The shape of your sails also plays a significant role in their efficiency. A well-trimmed sail should have a smooth, aerodynamic shape that allows the wind to flow smoothly over its surface. This will generate lift and propel your boat forward.

Sail Tension : Adjusting the tension of your sails is another important aspect of sail trim. Proper tension will help maintain the desired sail shape and prevent excessive fluttering or luffing, which can slow your boat down and cause unnecessary wear on your sails.

As you sail at different angles to the wind, you’ll need to adjust your sails accordingly. Here’s a brief overview of how to trim your sails for various points of sail:

Close-Hauled (Upwind) : When sailing close-hauled, your goal is to sail as close to the wind as possible without causing your sails to luff. To achieve this, you’ll need to trim your sails tightly, creating a narrow angle between the wind and your sails. This will generate maximum lift and propel your boat forward.

Reaching (Across the Wind) : When sailing on a reach, you’ll want to ease your sails out slightly to maintain a smooth, aerodynamic shape. This will allow the wind to flow smoothly over your sails and generate optimal lift.

Running (Downwind) : When sailing downwind, your goal is to catch as much wind as possible in your sails. To do this, you’ll need to ease your sails out fully, creating a wide angle between the wind and your sails. This will maximize the surface area of your sails and allow them to catch the most wind.

Once you’ve mastered the basics of sail trim, you can begin to fine-tune your adjustments to achieve even better performance. Here are some advanced techniques to help you optimize your sail trim:

Twist : Twist refers to the difference in angle between the top and bottom of your sails. By adjusting the twist, you can control the airflow over your sails and improve their efficiency. In general, you’ll want to have more twist when sailing in light winds and less twist when sailing in strong winds.

Draft : The draft is the deepest part of the sail’s curve and plays a significant role in generating lift. By adjusting the position of the draft, you can control the amount of lift your sails generate and improve their performance. In general, you’ll want to have the draft positioned forward when sailing upwind and aft when sailing downwind.

Heel : Heel refers to the angle at which your boat leans to one side due to the force of the wind on your sails. While some heel is necessary for optimal performance, excessive heel can slow your boat down and make it difficult to control. By adjusting your sail trim and weight distribution, you can minimize excessive heel and maintain better control of your boat.

Learning to read the wind and adjust your sails is a fundamental skill that every sailor must master. By understanding the principles of wind and sail trim, you’ll be well on your way to harnessing the power of the wind and enjoying the freedom and fulfillment that comes from sailing the open sea with your family.

As you gain experience and confidence, you’ll develop a keen sense for the wind and an intuitive understanding of how to adjust your sails for optimal performance. So, set sail, embrace the adventure, and let the wind guide you on your journey.

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What is the optimal wind speed for a sailboat?

As a sailing enthusiast, you may often wonder what the optimal wind speed for your sailboat is. The answer to this question is not as simple, as there are several factors that play into the ideal wind conditions for sailing. However, a basic understanding of the relationship between wind speed and sailing performance can help you determine your ideal sailing conditions.

To begin with, wind speed is a crucial element that impacts the performance of your sailboat. In general, most sailboats are designed to perform best in moderate to strong winds. Strong winds propel the boat faster, while light winds can cause slower speed and require more skill to succeed. It is important to note that different types of sailboats, such as racing boats and cruisers, have different optimal wind ranges, and some are more versatile in different wind ranges.

Sailboat performance is also influenced by the sail area and the shape of the sails. The angle and shape of the sails should be appropriately adjusted to maximize the wind’s energy to propel the boat. The right angle and the sail shape translate to increased efficiency, boat speed, and maneuverability.

In general, sailboats perform best with stable wind speeds. Winds between 8 and 20 knots (9-23 miles/hour) are considered optimal for most sailboats because they provide enough strength to push the sailboat through the water steadily. However, even within this range, wind direction can affect a sailboat in a significant way, especially in the case of sailing upwind.

For instance, if the wind direction is upwind (in opposition to the sailboat’s direction), the optimal range might be around 12-20 knots. Too much wind can result in the boat heeling excessively, making it more challenging to steer and navigate.

Similarly, if the wind is downwind, the optimal range might be between 8 and 15 knots. A light wind can cause the sails to flap and hinder your sailing progress. Meanwhile, a gusty wind can make sailing more challenging.

In summary, understanding the optimal wind range for your sailboat is essential to maximize your sailing experience. While wind conditions are a significant factor in sailboat performance, it is important to remember that different sailboats respond to different weather patterns. Therefore, you should always consult the sailboat manufacturer’s recommendations or consult with experienced sailors to ensure that you’re making the most out of your sailing experience.

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How Much Wind Is too Much for Boating?

Table of Contents

Last Updated on May 24, 2024 by Boatsetter Team

How much wind is too much for boating depends on your boat and your skill level. Vessels less than 25 feet need to head for shore if winds start approaching the 10 miles per hour mark unless they are constructed and equipped for such weather. In this post, we will go over how much wind is too much for boating and other things like: 

Marine weather statements

What’s a strong wind warning for boating, how much wind is too much for fishing.

• Is 10 mph wind bad for boating?

Read all the way through to catch all Pro tips .

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How much wind is too much for boating?

Johnboats, dinghies, skiffs, and even larger powerboats can find themselves in trouble if a wave height reaches 18 inches. When waves reach that height, they can swamp or capsize your boat, and neither is a pleasant experience. Suppose the water is cold or you are out of sight of land and other boaters. In that case, it can be an exceedingly dangerous experience. 

These are some general guidelines for understanding how the wind conditions might affect sailing or boating

• These winds are ideal for most boating activities, including sailing, fishing or cruising
• It’s safe to go boating with small boats and beginner operators
• Experienced boaters can handle such winds with ease
• Small boats may become unstable
• Sailors might find these conditions more challenging, but they are still manageable
• When you are dealing with strong winds, caution is advised for all types of boats
• Small boats should mostly avoid going boating as there’s a high chance for high waves and instability
• Experienced captains in large boats can still operate, but there’s an increased risk
• All recreational boating activities are recommended to be postponed
• Only experienced captains operating large boats should go on the water
• It’s advised to avoid boating

If the wind forecast shows strong winds for your boating day, considering renting a boat with an experienced captain .

How much wind is unsafe for boating?

There is a system in place that helps keep boaters safe. If followed, it will allow you to get off the water before it becomes too dangerous to be there or have the foreknowledge to stay home. Simply put, it depends on your boat, your skill, and the route. For example, if you are sailing, a brisk 20- knot wind may work great if you’re operating a 50-foot sailboat across the ocean.

However, that same 20 miles per hour wind on a smaller sailboat could knock it down, tossing its crew into the water, making for a dangerous situation. Even in calm conditions.

You can find marine weather statements on NOAA’s National Weather Service (NWS) . They are issued to advise boaters of current and future weather conditions such as dense fog and high winds and tides . In addition, marine weather statements warn of coming weather that has not yet reached a warning or advisory level.

Pro tip : To better understand marine statements make sure to memorize these key terms:

• Watch – informs mariners when a significant or hazardous weather event is possible, but not imminent during the next 12 to 36 hours.
• Advisory – indicates that a hazardous weather event is coming, imminent, but does not meet warning criteria.
• Warning – alerts mariners that a significant or hazardous weather event is likely, imminent, or occurring, and is a threat to life and property.

Small craft exercise caution

Marine weather statements will indicate a small craft advisory when sustained winds reach the 17–23 mile per hour range.

Small craft advisory

Small craft warnings are announced when sustained winds reach 24 to 38 miles per hour (21 to 33 knots). The notification can also be broadcast if waves are occurring or are expected to occur seven feet in height.

Special marine warning

Special marine warnings are issued when wind conditions reach intermittent gusts of 39 miles per hour and over the water. These warnings generally come from weather conditions caused by thunderstorms. They are also issued when waterspouts have been sighted over water.

Storm warning

Issued once wind speeds reach 55 miles per hour, storm warnings indicate weather generated from a non-tropical storm weather condition.

Gale warning

Gale warnings come out when wind speeds hit 37 miles per hour and are associated with non-tropical storm events. If your boat is less than 40 feet in length, you should be off the water long before the wind hits this velocity. After gales, you reach tropical storm and hurricane wind levels. At this point, boating should be the last thing on your mind.

Pro tip : Always check the forecast before heading out on the water. You can tune into a local news channel, use the weather app, or go to NOAA. Don’t wait until last minute to check either, if your trip is a week out, even two weeks, set a reminder to check the weather. 

Wind speeds above 15 miles per hour can make boating uncomfortable, especially if the wind speed is accompanied by choppy water. In addition, the combination of wave and wind motion could necessitate breaking out the seasick medication for those not accustomed to spending time on boats. Even the saltiest sailors get seasick, though, and an active ocean is a recipe for motion sickness. Boating can become rough and less than enjoyable when the wind and waves act against you. The threat of a seasick crew is the best argument for watching the weather and making your boating outings on fair days.

It depends on the kind of fishing you are doing, your boat, and your experience. For example, a 20-knot wind won’t affect a sizeable offshore powerboat noticeably. However, if you are fishing in a 15-foot skiff, a 20-knot wind can make for rough boating and lousy fishing. Unless your boat is built for heavy water, which some smaller boats are, pleasure boats under the length of 25 feet should head for the dock if the wind reaches ten miles per hour or more.

Of course, the speed of the wind doesn’t always dictate the size of the waves, and open water like the Atlantic or Pacific Ocean can have high waves even when the wind is not high. In these conditions, smaller boats will have difficulty navigating big rolling waves. Larger boats will do fine when big waves are rolling in, but it can get very messy in a hurry if the wind does come up. A confused sea state stirred by wind and water is dangerous for small boats and can even be hard to navigate.

Pro tip : In case of breakdowns on the water, be sure to have a Float Plan. Also, contact TowBoatUS by phone at 1-800-391-4869, or VHF Channel 16: Hail “TowBoatUS,” for assistance. 

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The 6 Points of Sail: Diagram of Wind Direction and Sail Trim

Points of sail are the different angles at which a sailboat can sail in relation to the wind. Understanding these points is crucial for anyone who wants to learn how to sail, and it’s usually taught in sailing schools. Each point has its own characteristics that determine the boat’s speed and direction.

The main points of sail are:

• Into the wind: The no-sail zone
• Close-hauled: Sailing as close to the wind direction as possible.
• Close reach: Sailing between a beam reach and close-hauled, at an angle to the wind.
• Beam reach: Sailing perpendicular to the wind, with the wind hitting the side of the sail.
• Broad reach: Sailing with the wind coming from behind at an angle.
• Running: Sailing directly downwind, with the wind coming from behind.

Understanding how to navigate through each point of sail effectively takes practice and patience. It’s important to know your boat’s capabilities and limitations so you can adjust your technique accordingly.

Points of Sail

To comprehend the points of sail, it is essential to grasp the relationship between a sailboat’s trajectory and the direction of the true wind. The points of sail encompass a full 360-degree circle, each segment representing a distinct sailing direction.

1. In Irons (Into the Wind)

Embarking on our journey, we encounter the point of sail known as “into the wind” or “in irons.” This position aligns your sailboat directly into the wind, within a range of plus or minus 45 degrees from 0 degrees. While this point of sail hinders forward progress, it serves as a pivotal moment for executing various sailing maneuvers, such as tacking and mast adjustments.

Tacking involves transitioning from one side of the wind to the other, crossing the into the wind point of sail. It is crucial to navigate this maneuver swiftly, as prolonged exposure in this “no-go zone” can impede momentum. Should you fail to traverse this point expediently and become stuck, it is referred to as being “taken aback.”

2. Close Hauled

Advancing beyond the into the wind point of sail, we arrive at the close hauled position. Sailing close hauled refers to navigating upwind, moving toward the wind’s direction. This point of sail, often referred to as “beating” or “working windward,” offers an intimate connection with the wind, enriching your experience as both captain and crew member.

During close hauled sailing, your sail assumes the role of an airplane wing, cutting through the wind head-on and generating optimal lift. Precise sail trim is paramount in this configuration, with tighter adjustments maximizing the sailboat’s ability to “point” towards the wind and optimize performance.

3. Close Reach

Continuing our voyage, we transition from close hauled to the close reach point of sail. Positioned between close hauled and beam reach, this segment represents a thrilling and rapid sailing direction. Sailors often revel in the exhilaration offered by the close reach point of sail.

Close reach resides closest to the “no-go zone” compared to other points of sail. It’s important to pay close attention to the wind and how the sails are set when sailing close reach. The sail needs to be tight, like when sailing close hauled, but loose enough so it’s just not luffing . This will help the boat sail efficiently when sailing upwind.

4. Beam Reach

As our sailboat maneuvers further away from the wind’s direction, we arrive at the beam reach point of sail. In this configuration, the sailboat is perpendicular to the wind, either on the starboard or port side. Notably, the beam reach point of sail boasts both speed and comfort, making it a preferred choice among sailors.

At beam reach, your sails are partially let out, the wind’s interaction with the sails in this position optimizes energy transfer from the lateral force to forward propulsion. The result is a harmonious conversion of wind power into the sailboat’s forward motion, ensuring an exhilarating and controlled sailing experience.

5. Broad Reach

Progressing from the beam reach, we venture into the realm of the broad reach point of sail. As we veer further downwind, the sails are let out approximately two-thirds of their capacity. At this stage, the wind doesn’t approache directly from astern but at an angle. As a consequence, the sail begins to function more like a parachute, relying on air resistance to maintain momentum.

While sailing on a broad reach, you will experience a less intense sensation of wind, yet your sailboat will continue to make steady progress. The sailboat’s orientation during this point of sail evokes a sense of descending down a slope. The serenity of the wind’s speed, coupled with the reliable forward movement, makes the broad reach a personal favorite among many sailors.

Our final point of sail brings us to the running point—a sailboat’s true downwind trajectory. In this configuration, the sails are fully let out, allowing the wind to propel the sailboat directly from behind. The experience of sailing on a running point is akin to running downhill, with the force of the wind acting as a powerful propeller.

Also known as a “dead run,” the running point of sail demands minimal attention to sail trim but requires careful attention to prevent an accidental jibe. Depending on wind conditions, this point presents an opportunity to hoist a gennaker or spinnaker sail, optimizing the sailboat’s performance when sailing directly downwind. The consistent wind direction and intensity make it an ideal moment to embrace the vibrant colors and expansive sails.

Conclusion for Points of Sail

In conclusion, understanding the fundamentals of sailing directions is crucial for any sailor. Knowing how to navigate each point of sail can make the difference between a successful voyage and a disastrous one. From sailing into the wind to running downwind with ease, each direction presents its own set of challenges and rewards.

Close hauled and close reach requires precision and skill, while beam reach provides a comfortable ride, and broad reach allows for thrilling surfing. Running downwind requires careful attention to prevent an accidental jibe.

As with any skill, practice makes perfect. Take time to familiarize yourself with each point of sail and experiment with different techniques. With patience and perseverance, you will soon become proficient in navigating all directions.

Remember that safety should always come first when out on the water. Always wear appropriate gear and follow proper procedures to ensure a safe journey.

How do I determine the point of sail I’m on?

To determine your point of sail, observe the angle of the wind relative to your boat. Look at the direction the wind is coming from and compare it to the direction your boat is heading. Adjust your sails accordingly to optimize your performance and balance.

What constitutes the best point of sail?

Determining the best point of sail is subjective and varies based on personal preference. However, the beam reach point of sail stands out as the fastest and most comfortable configuration. The optimal balance between lateral wind force and resisting keel force facilitates unparalleled forward movement on a sailboat.

How does the point of sail affect the boat’s heel?

The point of sail has a significant impact on a boat’s heel or stability. When sailing upwind, the boat tends to heel more due to the higher force generated by the sails. As you bear away and sail downwind, the boat’s heel decreases, and it becomes more stable. Proper sail trim can help maintain a balanced heel and overall stability throughout different points of sail.

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Home > Education & Expertise > Downwind and Light Wind Sails > Code Zero

Code Zero Sail

The Code Zero is a spinnaker-genoa hybrid. It’s designed to operate like a genoa but considered a spinnaker under racing rules (depending on its dimensions). This cruiser’s dream sail helps a boat’s performance in close reaching angles, especially in lighter winds, by generating much more speed than a slightly eased head sail. These sails also reach very well in moderate wind. A low stretch Vectran/Dyneema line or a torsion cable is normally used for the luff, and the sail is tensioned firmly to get a straight luff (a lot like a genoa).

A Code Zero has a mid girth of 75% of the foot length, so it measures as a spinnaker but has a much bigger area than a genoa. The optimal wind speed for this sail is 3 to 18 knots true wind speed and in lighter winds, you can carry this sail up to a 45-degree true wind angle. Typically they are designed to be flatter than a spinnaker and have a straight leech exit.

High-quality Code Zeros that’ll stand the test of time, no matter what you’re up to.

What makes a code zero.

The Code-Zero should be recognized as a spinnaker in the racing community, which means it must have a Mid Girth (MGM) no less than 75% of the Spinnaker Foot Length (SF).

The Code-Zero should  have a solid luff, unlike drifters or Asymmetric Spinnakers which are free-run, attached only at the head, tack, and clew.  The Code-Zero is run off of a dyneema or torsion line that keeps the luff straight and more rigid allowing it to point higher than an asymmetrical spinnaker but has a Leech Curve (as opposed to a hollow) increasing Sail Area and allowing the sail to power properly in low winds.

The torsion line is either built directly into the luff of the sail, or will use a system such as a zipper luff which allows the torsion line to be installed and removed easily.  Often furling systems such as Harken Reflex, or Profurl SPINEX, come with a specialized torsion line.

Construction

Code Zeros can be made out of either Spinnaker Nylon, a lightweight Dacron, or a Code Zero lightweight laminate (such as Contender ZL series).  As Code-Zeros are run at varying degrees and can function at a reach it is easy for sailors to push the limits of the intended speeds and angles causing damage to the sail. It’s important to know if you are going to need a sail that is more durable, lighter weight, or more performance driven – each of which has advantages and disadvantages. As a baseline, Precision Sail’s code zeros are designed with a zipper luff to allow a torsion line to be added/removed for storage and cleaning.

Heavier woven cloths, such as a 4oz Dacron, will provide durability and if you’re leaving the sail up for weeks at a time, Spinnaker Nylon is very lightweight 1.5 – 2oz, and will allow you to sail in very light winds. Finally, laminates are very performance orientated, with low stretch and very consistent sail shape; there’s also so much armamid in the Code-Zero laminate cloths that it’ll push your boat over before causing damage to the cloth, making it great for offshore sailing. A Code Zero Laminate will provide both lightweight performance in light air, and durability while crossing the pacific for an offshore catamaran cruiser with a displacement of 15,000 KG.

Catamaran Code-Zero

Many catamaran cruisers love to run a Code-Zero, just listen to Sailing Nahoa who rave about theirs!  While there are many advantages, it’s important to note that you’re going to be restricted by the rigging for how the sail is going to be able to point.  If the wide shrouds don’t allow you to sheet the sail in tight, you may not be able to hit 45° that many people expect out of the Code Zero.

Sailing Resources

Read more about Spinnakers and Code Zeros to help ensure you know what you want to know!

All About Spinnakers

Sailing With a Spinnaker – Asymmetrical Basics (Gennakers and Light Air Sails)

Sail Graphics, Colored Dacron and Color Customizations

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Home » Blog » Gear » Downwind sails demystified: how to choose a downwind sail for cruising

Downwind sails demystified: how to choose a downwind sail for cruising

By Author Fiona McGlynn

Posted on Last updated: February 15, 2023

Downwind sail terminology can be baffling! If you’re looking to build out your downwind sail inventory for cruising you may find yourself awash with spinnaker codes, headsail overlap percentages, and trying to understand the difference between an asymmetric spinnaker, gennaker, and cruising chute.

But don’t despair, the good news is: it’s not that complicated . All the marketing jargon aside, there are really just three types of downwind sails commonly used by cruisers and I’m going to cover them in this post.

• Asymmetric spinnakers

Symmetric spinnakers

We’ll also briefly touch on Code sails.

Sure there are more exotic downwind sail options like Parasailers and Blue Water Runners, but the three sails above tend to be the staples in most cruising sail wardrobes.

Also, if you’re looking to buy a downwind sail, be sure to check out our post on  buying used sails . Buying second-hand sails is a good way to build out your sail inventory without breaking the bank.

What is the best sail for downwind sailing?

No single sail is going to do everything well. Downwind sails achieve peak efficiency at different apparent wind angles and conditions, which is why performance-oriented boats carry a large inventory of sails. For example,  Vendee Globe skippers carry 9 sails  (their allowable limit).

As cruisers, we don’t have this luxury. Instead, we make do with fewer, less specialized, sails that can be used over a wide range of wind angles and conditions.

The best sail for downwind sailing is going to depend on your boat, your crew, and what you’re trying to achieve.

Considerations for choosing a downwind sail

Boat and rig.

How heavy is your boat and what type of rig does it have? How much space do you have for storing sails?

It’s important to  know your boat’s most efficient downwind sailing angle  and then choose a sail that performs well at that angle.

Modern, light, flat-bottomed boats often sail faster on a reach, whereas older, heavy-displacement cruisers don’t achieve the same gains from reaching.

You’ll also want to consider your rig and existing sail plans. As we’ll see later in this post, fractional and masthead rig boats will have slightly different downwind sail requirements.

Crew and experience level

Will you have six people onboard or be sailing single-handed? Are your crew newbies or ocean veterans? Are you comfortable handling a pole and working on the foredeck?

Certain downwind sails are more challenging to fly than others. For instance, a symmetrical spinnaker is a lot more effort to launch, fly, and douse, than a genoa on a roller furler.

Often short-handed crews (couples, single-handers, and families with small kids) find that spinnakers are too much work and choose to fly white sails alone. Even the most energetic sailors may find that sleep deprivation on a long passage can sap the fun out of elaborate sail changes.

We, like many cruisers, are very conservative. On our Pacific crossing, I can count the number of times we flew a spinnaker on two hands.

However, now that we have more bluewater miles under our keel, I’m a lot more eager to break out the kite. On our next ocean passage, I can see it playing a bigger role in our downwind repertoire.

What are your sailing goals?

Do you aspire to complete an Atlantic or Pacific crossing? Do you enjoy racing your cruiser? Are you content to motor sail?

The type of sailing will influence what downwind sails you carry.

For instance, if you’re planning on bluewater cruising, your focus might be on durable, heavyweight sails that can handle a squall and stand up to the rigors of an ocean crossing.

Consider how much you want to use your engine. If you’re planning long passages where you don’t have enough fuel to motor, you may want to invest in a light air sail.

Reach out to other sailors with similar boats who are doing the type of sailing you’re interested in and find out what they’re using.

Types of downwind sails

Genoas on roller furlers are hard to beat for downwind sailing. They’re robust, easy for a single person to manage on a roller furler, and make for a stable, stress-free downwind sail.

They can become problematic in light air and ocean swell when they tend to flog. The best way to avoid this is to pole out the genoa.

Poled out genoa

Sailing downwind with a poled-out genoa  was our go-to setup for much of our 2017 Pacific crossing.

It seems to be a favorite with Atlantic skippers too.  Yachting World surveyed 276 ARC skippers to learn about their sail and sail handling systems. “Despite most yachts carrying a spinnaker or offwind sail, over 60 skippers commented that using a poled-out foresail was the most effective downwind option, with twin headsails proving the next most popular.“

Twin headsails

Twin headsails  are another great option, and one I would consider for our next ocean passage.

Many roller furlers have a second luff groove so you can fly two headsails at the same time, one to each side. This gives you a large sail area, while still making it easy to reef from the cockpit.

Again, you may need to pole out one sail and sheet the other to the end of a boom that’s been locked off with a boom preventer in order to prevent flogging.

Speaking of which, if you’re planning on doing a lot of downwind sailing I highly recommend using a  boom brake or preventer for limiting the risks associated with an accidental gybe.

Headsail types

Headsails are categorized by their Luff Perpendicular percentage (LP%), which describes a headsail’s size/overlap relative to the boat’s J dimension (from where the forestay connects to the bow to the base of the mast). Larger sails, with more overlap, have higher percentages. 

Generally speaking, 130-135% headsails are pretty common sizes on cruising boats. We had a 130% genoa on our 1979 Dufour 35.

If you have a fractional rig with a non-overlapping headsail, you could use a Code Zero (more on that below) either poled out or flown as twin headsails.

• Stable and comfortable
• Easy to deploy and reef on a roller furler
• Covers a wide range of wind angles and wind speeds
• Dacron is durable and not prone to damage
• Requires a spinnaker pole or whisker pole in lighter wind conditions and swell

Asymmetric spinnaker

Asymmetric spinnakers (also known as gennakers and cruising chutes) can be thought of as a blend between a spinnaker and a genoa.

They’re ideal for sailing in light conditions. We usually doused ours when windspeeds increased to 15 knots.

Most of the time, they’re flown like a genoa, with the tack attached to the foresprit or bow, and the clew trimmed with a sheet. However, it’s also possible to sail an asymmetrical spinnaker in more of a symmetrical configuration .

Many short-handed crews (including ourselves) prefer asymmetric spinnakers to symmetric spinnakers because they’re a lot easier to sail and often don’t require a pole.

It’s possible to put asymmetric spinnakers on a roller furler, but this generally requires a flatter sail and limits the wind angles you can sail at to 135-145 degrees.

For fuller shapes, there are other options for taming your sail. A snuffer sock (a.k.a. spinnaker sleeve) consists of a tapered fabric sleeve that can be raised and lowered over a sail. According to  Yachting World’s 2019 ARC Survey , 57% of skippers used a snuffer sock on their boats.

Asymmetric spinnaker types

You may have heard cruisers referring to their A-sails. The “A” stands for asymmetric and is preceded by a number that designates whether the sail design is for light air or heavy air—the higher the number the heavier the air.

The number also tells you whether it’s a reaching or running sail, with odd numbers for reaching and even numbers for running.

• 1A Light Air Reaching Asymmetric
• 2A Light Air Running Asymmetric
• 3A Heavy Air Reaching Asymmetric
• 4A Heavy Air Running Asymmetric
• 5A Extreme Wind Asymmetric
• Can point higher than a symmetrical spinnaker
• Easier to fly than a symmetrical spinnaker
• Not always necessary to use a pole
• Great in light winds
• More work than a headsail on a roller furler
• Only appropriate for light air
• Lightweight nylon fabrics more prone to damage

Symmetrical spinnakers have been around for a long time and continue to be a valid choice for cruising sailors.

The symmetrical shape of the sail lends them to wind angles of 165 degrees or more. If you’re going to spend a lot of time running, it’s a great option.

They’ve become less popular with short-handed crews, namely because of the work involved to fly them. They require a pole, sheet and guy lines, an uphaul, and a downhaul—all of which can be a lot to manage! They also can’t point as high as an asymmetrical spinnaker.

Symmetric spinnaker types

Similar to asymmetric spinnakers, symmetrical spinnakers have S codes. The “S” stands for symmetric and the number designates whether the sail is for light air or heavy air (the higher the number the heavier the air) and for reaching (odd numbers) or running (even numbers).

• 1S Light Air Reaching Symmetric
• 2S Light Air Running Symmetric
• 3S Heavy Air Reaching Symmetric
• 4S Heavy Air Running Symmetric
• 5S Extreme Air Symmetric
• Great for running
• Great in light air
• More work than an asymmetric spinnaker
• Limited reaching performance

Code sails are not technically downwind sails, and are best used for reaching in light airs. They’re similar to asymmetric spinnakers but have a solid luff that allows them to point higher.

They’re necessary on fractional-rig boats with non-overlapping headsails as they fill the gap between upwind headsails and downwind spinnakers. However, they can also be flown on a run as a twinned or poled-out headsail.

Finding the right sail and having a good downwind sailing setup can make your cruising experience more efficient, comfortable, and enjoyable.

I highly recommend talking to other sailors who own similar boats and who’ve sailed the passages and cruising grounds you’re interested in. Most experienced bluewater cruisers have spent a lot of time thinking about and refining their systems and will be more than happy to share what they’ve learned.

Fiona McGlynn is an award-winning boating writer who created Waterborne as a place to learn about living aboard and traveling the world by sailboat. She has written for boating magazines including BoatUS, SAIL, Cruising World, and Good Old Boat. She’s also a contributing editor at Good Old Boat and BoatUS Magazine. In 2017, Fiona and her husband completed a 3-year, 13,000-mile voyage from Vancouver to Mexico to Australia on their 35-foot sailboat.

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How Much Wind is too much Wind

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I'm fairly new to sailing in fact this is my first year with my own boat. I have a 1977 Columbia 27 foot sailboat which I believe to be well constructed. I have no idea what the limits of too much wind would be. I'm smart enough to realize that there are many influencing circumstances including seamanship to the answer but in general, how does a sailor know when he needs to put up storm sails or just get the hell off the water. I have sailed in 15 knots of wind with no problem so far but what about 20 or 25 knots. How do you find your threshold without jeopordizing your boat and/or your life. Larry  

IMHP its a combo of wind and sea state as with wind only its pretty easy to have small enough sails to keep the boat comfortable BUT as the sea state builds its when you start to beat up yourself and the boat and get into conditions that are over your current comfort level or unable to make headway to a safe place  

At my age, I consider winds that exceed the water line length as too much to go out and enough to start getting back in. It is not the boat, but my body that can't take it for very long. So with my 24 ft lwl I find 24 knots too much for enjoyable sailing as by that time the bay water chop will have developed to about 5 feet or so. At that point I would have the second reef in the main and the jib rolled to about 80%, which is the most I can roll up a 120% and still have an okay set, not good enough to close haul it but close reaching is possible. If I wanted to sail in these conditions, I would have a 90% jib reefable to 60% and a storm jib. I also would put a third set of reef points in the main. When the boat is not overpowered, even the chop can be endureable (somewhat). John  

My first year with my boat, I mostly sailed in under 15 knot winds until I got comfortable months later. Then, I have sailed in as much as 25 knot winds. The more I sailed the more I learned how to adjust my sails in higher winds. I also became more familiar with my boat. My last trip in 25+ knot winds was in May. I was able to keep my boat going on a broad reach with only a 5 degree heel flying a full main and 110. Too bad this was the day when I overstressed my rudder causing it to snap clean in half. Even though many here would suggest to use two sails, I have found my boat does pretty well running a single sail in high winds. In fact I can get nearly hull speed in higher winds with a full main. As long as I am out on a sailing to nowhere day. If I was trying to maintain a course or hit a destination, it maybe more practical to have a reefed main with my smallest headsail. Problem is, my smallest is a 110 jib, I don't have a storm jib. So I am still trying to determine what my best sail configuration is in higher winds. This all said, I still prefer the under 15 knot wind days especially if I am single handing. The average day here is usually under 15 knot winds anyway. Bottomline from my experiences, I would say whatever starts to make you feel uncomfortable is probably where you draw the line. That little voice that tells you "maybe I should not be out here" could be correct. Then you can say too much wind for you and your sailing experience but not necessarily the boat. Its like if you are comfortable in 15 knot winds, then you start to feel like its getting easy to sail, try in 20 to 25 knots, see how you do. At first you probably will feel uneasy then after you do it a few times you will get more comfortable. Right now my personal limit is 30 knots, so I try to avoid going out if its over that. For one thing I am not tearing up my boat, next thing putting myself in harms way is not my idea of fun. With my limited experience going out in 30+ knots is just asking for trouble.  

Thanks for the great replies. I am normally a cautious person but when I get on my sailboat I like to push the envelope a little (not necessarily a good thing). I guess my biggest concern is breaking something but I sure don't want to become cocky and too sure of myself. I've done that with other things and the results haven't always been positive.  

The sails and sail area of a particular boat are each configured for a particular wind speed. With a standard rig this will usually be about 15-18. With gusts going somewhat higher say 25 the boat has to be sailed eg by easing the main to cope. It sails faster with less than 20 degrees of heel. If it is heeling more and burying the rail and it cannot be managed easily by sail trim then a reef is required in fact overdue. The reason being it is easier to reef before conditions get bad, and one should anticipate the wind increasing by being vigilant for approaching squalls, increasing waves and whitecaps in the distance, and by watching the wind speed shown by higher clouds, and by the forecast. Other signs include the behaviour of more windward boats. The point with reefing is this - a seven knot increase requires a 50% reduction in sail area to maintain the same force on the sails. So if with standard sails your desirable upper limit is 18, for 25 knots you need half the standard sail area and for 32 a quarter. A double reef gives about a 50% reduction. Many boats don't have third reefs or staysails. They may also have say 130% roler reefing genoas which don't set well cut down by around 2/3 or more. Unless you have a storm jib that suggests around 25 knots or thereabouts as a limit without squeezing more by easing the main. Sure you can and will have to bear off a bit with the waves but since you also have to allow for gusts of maybe 10 knots then roughly in the 25-30 knot ranch you are working pretty hard assuming standard sails and furling jib. Downwind you can subtract the boat speed from the true wind to get apparent so that is easier. So I suggest for many boats 25-30 reefed is not a bad limit. More if required with storm sails and the ability to handle it and perhaps as much the need to. If you don't have to there comes a point when the discomfort and risk of damage and scaring the less experienced crew becomes not worth it. I recall a major coastal race here a while ago when a lot of boats withdrew many suffering some damage in the 30-35 range. Sure some boats and crew can take more but then they wouldn't be asking would they? I think getting some time in the lower 20s is good training for handling more. I would also make the point that handling a short period is quite different from say 12 hours.  

First, I would make sure the standing rigging is perfect. It should be changed every 8 to 10 years. I noticed a "fish hook" in my backstay, and changed it. It was only 6 years old, but on close inspection, there were numerous strands that were broken, but didn't curl out. Second, go sailing in progressively higher winds, try 20kts for a few trips, then 25kts, etc., building confidence in you, and your boat at the same time. I've never lost confidence in myself, or my boat, but I have turned back because of the beating I was taking. Fatigue can be your enemy.  

What I've noticed, and I'm learning like you, is that things get exponentially more difficult with wind increases above 15, (as mentioned above). Around 12 knots or less, you can make a lot of mistakes with no harm to you or the boat. Around 20 knots, mistakes might not break stuff, but they can certainly be alarming. Tacking in 20 knots: fine, usually. Jibing: rather not do it without a capable crew. Reefing: Definitely exponentially harder than reefing at 15. Sailing in a straight line at 20,25, or (I can only guess) 30, is relatively easy if you have the right amount of sail up. It's when you need to fix/change/ things that it can be quite stressful.  

similar thread Hey, This is similar to another thread here: http://www.sailnet.com/forums/general-discussion-sailing-related/76287-wind-limit.html Here was my reply: Hello, If I am just going out for a pleasant day sail, I will limit the wind speed to 20 kts, 25 max if I have an experienced crew. If the wind is from the south I may go out in higher wind, because there won't be any waves where I am (on the long island side of the long island sound). If the wind is 20 kts, and will be against the tide, I'll stay home for sure. Those conditions create a lot of chop and short steep waves which are just no fun (for me) to sail in. I can handle more wind, but it's just not fun, and it's hard on the boat and the people. My boat can easily handle 20 kts of wind with a single reef in the main and the headsail (140) rolled up to a 110. Last night I was crewing on the C&C 34 I race on. We got to the committee boat and the wind was 15-18 kts from the west. Ten minutes later it was 25+ and went north. We reefed down the main, put of the #2 (no #3 on the boat) flattened the sails as much as possible and held on. Upwind was a chore, but downwind was a delight. That was with 5 experienced people and 4 novices. On my boat I would have put the sails away and went home. Barry  

Your Columbia is a tough little boat, our first boat was an old Columbia 28. The better you get with the boat, the more wind you can handle, but try to stay in the under 30 knots if you can, until you get caught by a big wind. We've been through two Force 10 storms in the Gulf of Mexico in our old Bristol, not on purpose, but we came through it and so would your Columbia.  

here on the Barnegat Bay the wind usually picks up from the south in the afternoon sometimes light other times 15 gusting to 30. my boat at 23 foot is waterballast and generally light compared to a fixed keel or heavier boat of its size. i sail alone 99 percent of the time. for me, when i have to fight the wind it is usually too much and i will sail back with just the main and small amount of jib, or just motor back. no reason to beat up the boat or yourself. now, if i am with a compitant sailor on board that is another story. alot of the times here it will blow so hard there is no chop at all which is about 30 or so .  

Unless your boat is unusually tender, you should be fine up to 25 knots if you reef appropriately and use a smaller headsail. I am always surprised how comfortable a boat can be, even in high winds, if you have an appropritately smaller amount of sail up. If, on the other hand, you have a boat that is designed for lighter winds (i.e., tender) you may not ever be comfrotable sailing in over 20 knots of breeze. Also, the experience of your crew can make it no fun to sail in high winds if they are nervous, unskilled or underconfident. Remember when it's blowing hard to reef early. If you don't reef in higher winds, it means getting knocked over, wrestling with the wheel and possible equipment failure. With the right amount of sail up on the very same day you often can have a very pleasant sail.  

I have a similar boat and do not go out when small craft warnings are predicted. Around here that seems to be at 20kts. I day sail for pleasure. Struggling with a big blow is not calming!!  

Sounds like you need some lessons. Teaching yourself should be a very slow, and cautious ordeal. It doesn't take much for things to get out of hand. A mentor would also be good, but right here in the forums are tons of information. At this point your boat can handle way more than you. You stick with it long enough. Then you can sail in most weather that come along. After a while the most dangerous part in sailing a storm is getting to & from the dock:laugher:laugher Every thousand mile journey begins with the first step, and then a step at a time. You've taken the first step, so take the rest a step at a time.....BEST WISHES........ i2f  

When the Admiral says it is The Admiral has the final say. If she says it is too windy to go out, we don't matter how "benign" I think it is. If I get hurt/sick and she has to do the boat herself, she has to be able to do it and with confidence. She is not comfortable handling the boat in strong winds by herself yet. Somewhere near 20 kt she puts the nix on it. If we (her and I) go out with other folks that sail, we will go out up to ~25kts. If I am out with others, and she is not along, 30 kts is the limit. Also, it not necessarily the high winds is the delta between peak and nominal winds speeds that make me agitated. If we have 15 kts than 30 kts, then a lull, then back to 20, I tend to head in. Steady winds, even high, are easier to sail than wind changing strength and direction every 30 seconds or so. As far as waves, 6 ft waves are the absolute max. Anything more than that for extended period of time is tiring and beats me up. We've sailed/motored in waves up to 11 ft on the beam for 4 h and I was spent. My boat is 33 ft long with an 11 ft beam.  

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What Is the Average Speed of a Sailboat (Plus Its Top Speed)?

Sailing is a popular hobby and sport enjoyed by many enthusiasts around the world. The beauty of sailing lies in the challenge of mastering the wind and currents to move a boat forward. One of the fascinating aspects of sailing is its speed. Sailboats can move at varying speeds, depending on several factors. In this article, we will dive into the average and top speeds of sailboats and explore the techniques and strategies to increase sailboat speed.

Quick Facts

Understanding Sailboat Speeds

Before delving into the average and top speeds of sailboats, you need to understand the dynamics of sailboat speeds. Sailboat speeds can be determined by the points of sail, wind direction, and boat design. Points of sail refer to the various angles at which a boat can sail in relation to the wind. These angles include upwind, close-hauled, beam reach, broad reach, and downwind (also called a run). Wind direction plays a crucial role in determining sailboat speed. A tailwind is usually faster than a headwind. The boat design also determines the speed potential of a sailboat.

When sailing upwind, sailboats move slower because they are fighting against the wind. Close-hauled sailing is the point of sail where the boat is sailing as close to the wind as possible. It is the slowest point of sail, as the boat is sailing against the wind. Beam reach sailing is when the boat is sailing perpendicular to the wind. It is faster than close-hauled sailing but slower than broad reach sailing. Broad reach sailing is when the boat is sailing with the wind behind it. It is faster than beam reach sailing but slower than downwind sailing. Downwind sailing is when the boat is sailing with the wind directly behind it. It is the fastest point of sail, as the boat is moving with the wind.

Factors Affecting Sailboat Speed

Several factors influence the speed of sailboats. Wind speed is the most significant factor affecting sailboat speed. The bigger the sails, the more power a sailboat has to move faster. Sail area also plays a crucial role in determining sailboat speed. A larger sail area means more power to move the boat. Boat size and weight also come into play, as larger boats require more power to move at faster speeds. Water friction is another critical factor that affects speed. Friction between the hull and the water can slow down a sailboat, but optimized boat design can minimize this effect.

Boat design is essential in determining sailboat speed. The boat’s hull shape, keel design, and rigging all play a role in how fast the boat can sail. The hull shape affects how the boat moves through the water, and a streamlined shape can reduce water resistance and increase speed. The keel design affects the boat’s stability and maneuverability, which can affect speed. Rigging, including the mast and sails, also plays a crucial role in sailboat speed. A well-designed rig can help the boat capture more wind and move faster.

Measuring Sailboat Speed

There are various ways to measure sailboat speed. The most common method is the use of a GPS or handheld speedometer. GPS offers accurate speed readings, while handheld speedometers are affordable and provide basic speed readings. In sailboat racing, measurements are done using speed logs attached to the boat’s hull or through timed performance over a specific distance. Sailboat speed can also be measured using wind instruments, which measure the wind speed and direction and calculate the boat’s speed based on that information.

Sailboat speed is affected by various factors, including wind speed, sail area, boat size and weight, water friction, and boat design. Understanding the points of sail and how wind direction affects sailboat speed is essential in determining how fast a sailboat can go. Measuring sailboat speed can be done using various methods, including GPS, handheld speedometers, speed logs, timed performance, and wind instruments.

Types of Sailboats and Their Average Speeds

Sailboats come in different designs, shapes, and sizes, each with its unique features and capabilities. Whether you are a seasoned sailor or a beginner, choosing the right sailboat type can make all the difference in your sailing experience. Here are some popular sailboat types and their average speeds.

Dinghies are small sailboats primarily used for recreational sailing. These boats are easy to handle and maneuver, making them a popular choice for beginners. Dinghies usually have a single sail, which limits their speed potential. However, their lightweight design allows them to move swiftly through the water. On average, dinghies can move at speeds of 8-15 knots (9-17 mph).

One of the most popular dinghy sailboats is the Laser, which has been an Olympic class boat since 1996. The Laser is a one-design boat, meaning that all boats are built to the same specifications, ensuring fair competition. The Laser is known for its speed and agility, making it a favorite among sailors around the world.

Catamarans are two-hulled sailboats that have a wide beam, making them stable and fast. These sailboats can achieve high speeds and are popular for racing and cruising. Catamarans have a unique design that allows them to sail close to the wind, making them efficient and fast. On average, catamarans can move at speeds of 15-25 knots (17-29 mph).

The Hobie Cat is one of the most popular catamarans in the world. The Hobie Cat is a small, beach-launched catamaran that is perfect for recreational sailing. The boat’s lightweight design allows it to move quickly through the water, and its unique trampoline design makes it comfortable to sail.

Monohulls are the most common sailboat type. These boats have a single hull and can range from small recreational boats to large racing sailboats. Monohulls are versatile boats that can be used for cruising, racing, and day sailing. The average speed range of monohulls is 5-20 knots (6-23 mph).

The J/Boat is a popular monohull sailboat that is known for its speed and performance. The J/Boat is a racing sailboat that has won numerous regattas and championships around the world. The boat’s lightweight design and high-tech features make it a favorite among competitive sailors.

Cruising Sailboats

Cruising boats are designed for comfort and leisurely sailing. They are usually larger and heavier than other sailboat types and can accommodate large crews. Cruising sailboats are perfect for long-distance sailing and exploring new destinations. The average speed range of cruising sailboats is 5-15 knots (6-17 mph).

The Beneteau Oceanis is a popular cruising sailboat that is known for its comfort and luxury. The Oceanis has a spacious interior and can accommodate large crews, making it perfect for extended sailing trips. The boat’s sturdy design and reliable performance make it a favorite among cruising sailors.

Racing Sailboats

Racing sailboats are designed with performance in mind. These boats are usually lightweight and have a larger sail area than recreational sailboats, allowing them to reach high speeds. Racing sailboats are perfect for competitive sailors who want to push their limits and test their skills. The average speed range of racing sailboats is 20-30 knots (23-35 mph).

The Melges 24 is a popular racing sailboat that is known for its speed and agility. The Melges 24 is a one-design boat that is used in numerous regattas and championships around the world. The boat’s lightweight design and high-tech features make it a favorite among competitive sailors.

How to Increase Your Sailboat’s Speed

There is nothing quite like the feeling of sailing at high speeds, with the wind in your hair and the sun on your face. However, achieving maximum speed on a sailboat requires more than just a favorable wind. In this article, we will explore some tips and techniques to help you increase your sailboat’s speed and performance.

Optimizing Sail Trim

Sail trim refers to the setting of the sails in the most efficient way possible to harness the wind’s power and produce maximum speed. Proper sail trim can also improve the boat’s stability and balance. Optimizing sail trim involves adjusting the sails to the correct shape, angle, and tension.

One way to achieve the correct sail trim is to use telltales, which are small pieces of yarn or ribbon attached to the sail. By observing the telltales, you can adjust the sail’s position to achieve the optimal angle and tension. It is also essential to adjust the sails according to the wind conditions. For example, in light winds, the sails should be fuller, while in strong winds, the sails should be flatter.

Balancing the Boat

A balanced boat helps the sailboat move smoothly and efficiently through the water. Balancing the boat involves shifting the crew to counterbalance the forces applied on the sailboat, such as wind gusts and waves. Proper weight positioning can reduce drag and maximize boat performance.

When sailing upwind, it is essential to keep the weight forward to prevent the boat from heeling too much. Conversely, when sailing downwind, it is best to keep the weight aft to prevent the bow from digging into the water. Additionally, it is crucial to keep the weight evenly distributed from side to side to maintain the boat’s balance.

Reducing Drag

Drag is the resistance a sailboat encounters as it moves through the water. Reducing drag can increase speed potential. Techniques to reduce drag include using smooth hull coatings, eliminating unnecessary weight, and keeping the boat clean and free of barnacles and other marine growth.

Another way to reduce drag is to minimize the amount of exposed surface area on the boat. This can be achieved by using a smaller headsail or reefing the mainsail in heavy winds. It is also important to keep the sails properly trimmed, as a poorly trimmed sail can create unnecessary drag.

Proper Maintenance

A well-maintained sailboat operates at its full potential and can achieve higher speeds. Proper maintenance involves regular cleaning, lubrication, and replacement of worn-out parts. It is also essential to keep the sails and rigging in good condition.

Inspect the sails regularly for any signs of wear and tear, such as frayed edges or holes. Replace any damaged sails promptly. Similarly, inspect the rigging for any signs of corrosion or damage. Lubricate the moving parts regularly to ensure smooth operation. Finally, keep the boat clean and free of debris to reduce drag and improve performance.

By following these tips and techniques, you can increase your sailboat’s speed and performance, and enjoy the thrill of sailing to the fullest.

Sailboat Top Speeds

Speed records for different sailboat types.

Sailboats have achieved incredible speeds over the years, with some breaking speed records. The Sailrocket 2 holds the world speed record for sailing at 68 mph. The Vestas Sailrocket 2 is a hydrofoil sailboat that uses advanced technologies to slice through the water at high speeds.

Another sailboat that has broken speed records is the Macquarie Innovation. This sailboat was designed to reach high speeds and broke the world sailing speed record in 2009 by reaching a speed of 50.7 knots (about 58 mph). The boat was built with high-tech materials and was designed to reduce drag and increase speed.

Factors Affecting Top Speed

Top speed is the fastest that a sailboat can travel and is influenced by several factors. These factors include wind speed, boat size and weight, sail area, and water conditions. In most cases, the larger the sail area, the faster the boat can go, and wind direction plays an essential role in achieving top speeds.

The weight of the boat can also affect its top speed. A lighter boat can move faster through the water and is easier to maneuver. Sailboats with hydrofoils, like the Sailrocket 2, can lift out of the water, reducing drag and allowing for faster speeds.

Pushing Your Sailboat to Its Limits

Pushing your sailboat to its limits requires experience, knowledge, and skill. It involves maximizing boat speed in various wind and water conditions while staying safe and in control. Before attempting to push your boat to its highest speeds, ensure that your boat is in top shape, and you have all the necessary safety equipment.

It’s also important to understand the wind and water conditions you’ll be sailing in. Wind direction and strength can greatly affect your boat’s speed, and understanding how to use the wind to your advantage is essential for achieving top speeds. Additionally, water conditions can affect your boat’s speed, with choppy water slowing you down and calm water allowing for faster speeds.

Finally, it’s important to practice and build up your skills before attempting to push your sailboat to its limits. Start by sailing in calmer waters and gradually work your way up to more challenging conditions. With practice and experience, you’ll be able to maximize your boat’s speed and push it to its highest limits.

Sailboat speed is influenced by several factors, including wind speed, sail area, boat size and weight, and water friction. The average speed range for different sailboat types varies and depends on boat design. You can increase your sailboat speed by optimizing sail trim, balancing the boat, reducing drag, and proper maintenance. Top speeds are influenced by wind conditions, sail area, boat size and weight, and water conditions. Pushing your sailboat to its limit requires experience, knowledge, and skill, and always remember to prioritize safety.

Sailboat FAQS

How fast can a 40 ft sailboat go.

A 40-foot sailboat can typically go around 8-12 knots (9-14 mph), depending on wind conditions and the specific design and condition of the sailboat. Speed can be influenced by factors such as hull design, sail area, and weight.

How fast can a 100 foot sailboat go?

A 100-foot sailboat can reach speeds of around 12-16 knots (14-18 mph), depending on factors like the sail area, hull design, and the wind conditions. However, larger sailboats often prioritize comfort and stability over speed, so they might not be as fast as some smaller, performance-oriented sailboats.

How far can a sailboat travel in a day?

This largely depends on the speed of the sailboat and the conditions in which it is sailing. However, if a sailboat maintains an average speed of 6 knots (around 7 mph), it can travel approximately 144 nautical miles in a day of 24 hours. Please note this is a rough estimation and actual mileage can vary significantly based on numerous factors.

What is a comfortable sailing speed?

A comfortable sailing speed is subjective and can vary depending on the type of sailboat and the conditions. However, for many cruising sailboats, a speed of 5-8 knots (6-9 mph) can be comfortable. This speed allows for a good balance of progress and safety, while keeping the ride relatively smooth and the boat easy to control.

Can one person sail a 35-foot sailboat?

Yes, a 35-foot sailboat can be handled by a single person, given that they have sufficient sailing experience and the boat is rigged for single-handed sailing. However, it’s crucial to note that single-handed sailing involves a higher level of risk and requires extensive experience and skills. It’s also important to have an autopilot system or self-steering gear on board to aid in maneuvering and navigation.

Can one person sail a 50-foot sailboat?

Sailing a 50-foot sailboat single-handed is possible, but it is considerably more challenging and requires a high level of experience and expertise. The size and weight of the boat can make maneuvers like docking and anchoring quite difficult for a single person. Additionally, the boat should be well-equipped with an autopilot system and other equipment designed for single-handed sailing. It’s always recommended to have additional crew members on larger boats for safety and assistance.

John is an experienced journalist and veteran boater. He heads up the content team at BoatingBeast and aims to share his many years experience of the marine world with our readers.

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How To Sail Into the Wind (in 7 Simple Steps)

Sailing into the wind seems like Poseidon's magic, but once you learn how to set up your sails and hold the correct course, you can do it. This article explains the technique in 7 simple steps.

How to sail into the wind?

• Make sure your sails are close-hauled and tight
• Set your direction approximately 22 degrees from the direction of the apparent wind
• If you sail left from the direction of the apparent wind, your front sail should be on the left side and vice versa
• Your mainsail should be centered
• You can not sail directly into the wind, as there is an approximately 44 degree 'no go' zone' - 22 degrees from each side of the wind direction
• Because of that, if your destination is directly into the wind, zig-zag (tack) your way towards it, going 22 degrees left and then 22 degrees right
• During this zig-zag maneuver, you need to simultaneously change the boat's course and switch the front sail from one side to another

If you’re unsure what it all means, don’t worry. I will explain all the technical terms in the steps below.

It really isn't all that difficult once you remember these few steps. Plus it is a fun way to sail: the boat leans elegantly, the wind blows against you and you feel like the king of the seas.

So let's go through the steps in a bit more detail and make sure that next time you are out sailing, you can go wherever you set your mind to. Because that's what sailing is about - the freedom to do whatever you want.

On this page:

Make sure your sails are tight, determining the right course, headsail position should be dead center, center your mainsail, avoid the no-go zone, zig zag (tack) to stay on course, how to tack to change direction.

When I was on a sailboat for the first time and the skipper said ‘we’ll now sail against the wind’, I thought he’d gone crazy. It’s a sailboat. It uses the wind to move. Things don’t go against the wind. They go with it. Look at the leaves on the ground when it gets windy.

But soon I was proven wrong. Because when sailing into the wind, your sail doesn't work like a sheet that is simply pushed by the wind. Rather, it works like an airplane wing. That is why sails of boats going against the wind have approximately the shape of a wing - and that's what step 1 is all about - making sure the sails are tight and hold their form. No flapping around, no loose ropes.

The sails should also be close-hauled. Close-hauled means they are pointing almost straight back. Their direction is mostly determined by how you set them, not by the wind.

I have a confession to make - you can't sail directly into the wind. That's just physically impossible. At least until somebody comes up with some new revolutionary sail system.

But here is the good news - you can have the next best thing - sailing almost into the wind. Precisely 22 degrees left or right from the direction of the apparent wind. Once you cross this imaginary line and steer your boat closer into the direction of the wind, your sails will start to flap around, lose their form and your boat will slow down.

Plus the boat will start shaking as the sails flap, it will all get noisy, simply put, you want to stick to those 22 degrees.

Don't worry, you don't have to bring a pen and paper to the helm and measure everything. The little V on the top of your mast along with the arrow that points into the wind, that's your best friend in determining the right direction. The angle of the V is precisely these 22 degrees times two.

So if the tail of the moving arrow overlaps one of the legs of the V, you are hitting the sweet spot.

If the tail is inside of the V, you are headed too much into the wind.

If the tail is too much outside of the V, you are still moving, but you aren't sailing as much into the wind as your boat allows.

The correct position of your mainsail is pretty clear. Have it tightly set right in the middle.

But what about your headsail? Your headsail is your front sail. This is mostly a jib. Even if it is as close-hauled as possible, you still have two places to put it - the left side and the right one. So what to do?

Well, the answer is pretty easy. If your sailing direction is left of the wind direction, you put the sail on the left. If you are sailing on the right side of the wind direction, you put the sail on the right.

Not much else to explain here. The tricky part comes when you need to switch sides. But more on that later.

As mentioned, the mainsail should rest in the middle. While sailing upwind, you don't need to manipulate it at all. That is unless you need to reef it during a storm. The important thing is to have it firmly set in one place. No wiggle room like would be the case if the wind was in your back. Remember, you are not being pushed, you are using your sails like wings.

All that needs to be said was covered in the second step. As already said, you can't go directly into the wind and some 22 degrees from its left or right side.

By the way, this number 22 is not exactly set in stone. It differs slightly for different boats. Racers can go more into the wind whereas cruisers have to keep the angle wider.

But you can find out what your boat's angle is quite easily. Close haul your sails, make them tight and start turning into the wind. As long as they hold the wing-shaped form, all is well. As soon as they start to flap, your angle became too narrow. You've entered the no go zone.

So right before the flapping starts, that's the sweet spot.

Obviously we have to address the important question here. What if your destination lies somewhere in the no go zone? Let's say the marina you want to rest at for the night is exactly where the wind is coming from. Dead center.

Well, since 22 degrees is the closest we can get to the wind direction, that's what we will do. Head left of your destination, sail for a bit, then turn and head right of your destination. Then left again, then right again. Dance around the center line and eventually you will get to your spot. If it sounds a bit abstract, see the picture below. This is called tacking.

How often you turn is entirely up to you. Whether you decide to turn just once (the red line), making your passage wide but with less effort, or whether you turn every two minutes, making the passage narrow (the blue line), won't influence the total distance covered.

As portrayed in the picture, going all the way to the right corner, turning and going straight towards the finish, or turning every time you reach the end of a single field has no effect on how far your boat will have to go in total. You pass the same amount of chess fields.

But know that each turn slows your boat down a bit and it takes time before it gathers speed again. So as far as time and energy goes, better keep it simple.

This means that the route you take will mostly be dictated by how wide you can afford your passage to be. If you find yourself in a narrow channel, you will have to switch directions often, if on the other hand you have nothing but open seas ahead, you are in luck.

When planning your zig-zag route, keep in mind that the wind will make you drift. Your boat will not travel in a straight line ahead, it will be pushed by the wind wherever it will blow from. Even though you are travelling upwind, since you are going 22 degrees off the wind's course, the wind is still pushing you from one side.

This zig-zagging means you will have to change directions. Especially for beginners, this is a potentially challenging maneuver and oftentimes has to be done with at least two people.

The reason it is a bit tricky is that you have to change the boat's course and switch the front sail from one side to another simultaneously within the shortest time you can. Why the rush? You don't want to hesitate because, during the turn, the boat goes through the 'no go zone', the dead angle where it won't be propelled by the wind. You will rapidly start losing speed. So you want to make sure you are on the right course as soon as you can.

Also, in this dead angle, the sails will flap and you don't want to expose them to this much, especially if the winds are too rough.

The best way to go about this is to have one person at the helm and two more at winches. Once the helmsman starts changing the course, the winch holding the front sail on one side should be released and the front sail should be winched in onto the other side. There will be a lot of sail flapping, especially if it is windy, but don't worry and just keep winching the sail in until it is nice and tight again.

A Leaning Boat

Don't worry, no more steps. Just a quick heads up. If you travel upwind, your boat will lean to one side. The windier it is the more it will lean. This is completely normal. Don't correct the course just because the boat's belly starts peeking out of the waves. The wind itself can't tip the boat over. I won't go into the physics of why that is, just know you are safe.

But be sure to have all your cabinets closed and keep the number of things that can freely move around to a minimum. Many teacups have been broken like this. It is also nice to inform those onboard that the boat will lean, especially if they don't expect it.

Feel like a Poseidon

It is precisely the boat leaned to one side, oftentimes so much that you can touch the water while standing behind the helm, and the feeling of speed, that makes this type of sailing so fantastic. As both the wind and the waves will be coming towards you, the boat's speed will feel much higher than it is. This makes sailing exciting as you feel like you are flying through the waves.

As opposed to downwind sailing where you hardly feel any wind, since you are traveling with it.

Lift Explained (Ok, but how is all this possible?)

Right. I still haven't explained that. Well, as said in the beginning, you aren't being pushed by the wind, you are, as it were, being sucked into it. I know intuitively this makes little sense but if you bear with me through this little physics lesson, you'll understand it.

As mentioned, a tight sail on a boat going upwind has approximately the shape of an airplane wing. See the picture for illustration.

Because of this shape, the wind on the shorter side has to travel slightly slower speed than wind on the other side. This results in high pressure on one side and low pressure on the other. And as with anything, where there is low wind pressure, things are being sucked in. That's why the tight close-hauled sail is so important.

The reason why your boat doesn't just go sideways is your keel. It compensates for the suction by pushing the boat and the powers combined result in the boat going more or less forwards.

So there you go. The whole thing really is not that complicated. As with everything, go out there and practice a bit. The main things to get a feel for are keeping the correct angle so that you take advantage of the wind as much as possible and mastering the direction change. It is easier to practice in slower winds before you give it a full go.

Related questions

How to sail downwind? If the wind is in your back, you just open up the sails as much as you can and let yourself be pushed. Sometimes a spinnaker is used, which is a special balloon-like sail used in back winds. Sailing downwind is easier for many sailors as the whole thing is a bit more intuitive. So it is easier to set up the sails correctly.

How was this done in the olden days? The Chinese were able to sail upwind very early on. Some medieval European designs on the other hands were only able to take advantage of downwind. This then really depends on the particular designs. Just as with any technology, some cultures got the hang of it sooner than the others. One thing is for certain though, the ability to sail upwind is not a modern matter.

So take advantage of the ancient wisdom, get out there and enjoy!

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You may also like, how much do sailing lessons cost.

If you're new to sailing and want to learn the old-fashioned way, you need to take sailing lessons. But are they as expensive as people say? And what's a good deal?

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Code zero: Choose your angle

Your ultimate guide to reaching sails

Smart new design

Choose your angle with Quantum's specialty line of high-performing, versatile, and easy to use downwind reaching sails.

To help clear up this somewhat confusing category, Quantum developed its line of reaching, code sails around the target Apparent Wind Angles (AWA). After all, this is how we actually sail! Scroll down to learn more about reaching sails and their important role in your inventory.

ALL THE ANGLES IN BETWEEN

We made it easy to find the right reaching sail with our new line developed around target Apparent Wind Angles (AWA).

Cruising Downwind Sails

New favorite sail

Versatile, easy to use, and easy to trim. Even your partner and crew will love it.

Sail Smarter

Here's what goes into making the perfect reaching sail for your needs.

Code Zero & AWA Trim Guide

Technique and guidance on tension, twing placement, trimming and driving to maximize your experience and elevate the performance of your AWA sails.

XC CRUISING & RACING CABLELESS SAILS

Quantum's XC reaching sails have more luff projection to weather and more twist (five to 10 degrees) compared to traditional reaching sails and other cable-less designs on the market.

The superior performance is a result of a straighter, more stable leech and a flatter exit, both contributing to an increase in drive in all conditions but not overpowering the boat in heavy-air reaching. And because there is less surplus material along the leech, there is less backwinding of the mainsail, which creates less drag when sailing close to the wind.

Quantum’s XC structured luff technology and designs are great for reaching applications like the AWA 40, 60, and 80, and are available in membrane or tri-radial construction to meet the needs of any sailor.

Trimming the Code Zero

In lighter air, you can ease the luff off a bit to sail at tighter angles. In the middle of the range, you pull the luff a bit tighter to keep sail setting as designed. As it gets windier and you sail wider angles, you can ease it up again to maximize drive and projection.

For Optimal Trim

• Looser in the luff to sail tight angles and light air
• Tighter in the luff in the middle working range of the sail
• Then ease it again in stronger and wider AWAS

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Onboard Sail Care: UV Protection - Inspecting Halyards & Lines

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5 Best Wind Generators For Sailboats (2024)

Last Updated by

Daniel Wade

January 2, 2024

Wind generators, also known as micro turbines, have come a long way since their first appearance on the cruising scene back in the 1970's. Loud, relatively low output and large bladed, these forerunners of the modern day wind generators were both a mechanical marvel and a source of constant consternation. They were basically a small automotive alternator encased in an aluminum housing, with little thought into aesthetics or longevity. Cruisers equipped with an old Windbugger or K.I.S.S. wind generators come to mind as the loud boats in the anchorage no one wanted to be around.

As we all know, there are very few, if any, automotive products that last very long in a marine environment. A large stock of spare parts had to be stored in case of breakage, and daily maintenance consisted of checking the bearings, monitoring the voltage vs. wind speed for signs of decreased output, and rotating the blades into the wind when the boat position changed.

Today's best wind generators boast such features as CAD designed, self-feathering composite blades that are whisper quiet, brushless magnetic alternators, automatic braking and over-charge protection. Boxy aluminum housings have been replaced with sleek, carbon fiber and fiberglass nacelles.

While you may spend a small fortune on a wind generator that has all of these features and more, you can also opt for more budget friendly models, readily available from Amazon, Home Depot and other on-line retailers. The best wind generators are usually the most expensive, but when you are looking at the lower cost models, remember to add in the cost of wiring, mounting hardware, remote monitoring stations and installation, should you choose not to do the work yourself. Not all wind generators are purpose-built for the marine environment. Buyer beware: a turbine designed for the hobbyist on land will not stand up to the rigors of an offshore passage.

Table of contents

As with any mechanical device you are researching, it is a good idea to learn some of the terminology associated with the product. Not all of us know the meaning of 'swept area', 'power capture' or 'yaw error'. Likewise with the electrical side of the wind generator. Learning about output wattage, amps, and microprocessors can seem like a daunting task, but it is necessary to know these terms before you shell out hard earned cash for a quality wind generator.

Some features of wind generators, such as weather-proof coatings and low-noise operation, are common to all makes and models. The use of rare earth elements like Neodymium, (Nd2FE14B, used in magnetic rotors), can add hundreds of dollars to the price of some of these wind generators, but defiantly do add to the overall dependability of the unit.

Some of the more desirable things to look for in a wind generator are:

• Ease of Operation

Also known as plug-n-play, the simpler the set-up, the better. Choose a model that has built-in controllers, that ???makes for less complicated wiring runs. A remote monitor is handy to check on the status of the charging system without crawling into the battery room, or looking up to see if the blades are still turning. If you are ordering your generator and having it shipped, ask your salesman to be sure it has detailed assembly instructions and perhaps an owner's manual in either DVD or booklet form.

• Low Cut-In Speed 

Wind generators work best when the blades are humming along in 20 knots of wind, but that's not always the case. Low cut-in speed means your batteries are getting a charge in the lightest of airs, if only a trickle charge.

If you happen to be ashore when the wind kicks up, you don't want your turbine to spin wildly out of control. Some generators feature a type of automatic speed governor that slows the blades down before they self destruct. Back in the day, you had to pull down on a cord to apply the brakes, then climb up the mast or mounting pole and manually tie off the blades.

• Over-Charge Protection

A 'brake' also kicks in when the batteries are nearing or at full capacity, to prevent overcharging. Some controllers slow the rotation of the blades, others 'dump' the excess power generated through a resistor and heat sink. Wiring an in line reset-able fuse can prevent damage to your batteries should a malfunction occur within the charging system.

• Portability

If you are one of those part-time sailors who cruises for a few months, then dry-docks your vessel for the off-season, choose a light-weight portable wind generator you can set up at home to off-set your electric bill. In case of a hurricane or other emergency when there is no power for days at a time, your wind generator can power cell phone chargers, laptops and rechargeable battery stations. Removing your wind generator and locking it away in the cabin also deters thieves. Portable wind generators that are light can be mounted on higher surfaces without worrying about upsetting the balance of your boat. The heavier the generator, the lower it should be mounted, allowing for safe passage under and around those spinning blades, of course!

It is also a good idea to know your boat's needs and desires before settling for a low cost, low output wind generator. Everything that runs off a battery, including the DC to AC inverter, should be listed, along with their amp/hour draw, to determine how much power you will need to generate. Compare your toys with your reserve amps of your house battery bank. Do you just have a few LED bulbs and a masthead light to run at anchor? Then you can get by with a low output generator. Are you keeping a keg cooler, stereo, disco ball and Netflix going all night? When underway, are you powering SSB, weatherfax, VHF and radar? Then you need a rack full of batteries, and a wind generator with the capacity to keep them topped off.

Speaking of batteries, make sure the wind generator you purchase can charge all the different batteries available. Even if you only have wet-cell lead/acid marine batteries now, you may upgrade to AGM, Gel or even LiFeMgPO4 (Lithium Iron Magnesium Phosphate) batteries in the future. Some wind generators and their controllers are not advanced enough to charge these newer power sources.

Unless you are well versed in the application of electrical theory and DC current, you probably don't know much about wire size and current loss. Even the best wind generator will not function as advertised if the power can not get from the blades to the battery. If you have a long run from your generator to the battery bank you intend to charge, make sure your wires are correctly sized to prevent line loss from resistance and over heating. Most installation manuals will have a wire chart included for DIY installations, and there is always a help line to the manufacturer.

Here are four out of the dozens of wind generators out there that have positive reviews and some of the most desirable features.

1.) Superwind 350, 353

This German manufactured turbine features their patented Auto-Feathering Overspeed-Avoidance System. This is basically the same method a helicopter uses to gain lift, and settle back down. As the wind speed reaches 25 knots, the blades 'feather', or dump air, making them less efficient, and slowing their speed. As the wind lessens, the blades re-pitch, becoming more efficient. This action delivers a steady flow of charging current to the batteries, without going into a shut-down mode to prevent overcharging, as some models do. The Superwind generators also can be combined with solar panels and conventional diesel generators. The Superwind generator family also uses a brushless A/C stator for maximum control of noise and radio interference while the unit is producing power. Two sets of bearings in the 350 make for smoother operation and overall longer bearing life. Available in 12v, 24v, or 48v outputs. At close to 30 lbs, these units are well built and dependable. With a price tag right around $2,700 for the Superwind 350 kit, you can expect German Engineering at it's finest.  https://www.superwind.com/superwind-350-353/

2.) Automaxx

The Automaxx line of wind generators comes in 12v, 24v 48v models, in outputs from 400w up to 1500w. Survival wind speeds are listed at 110mph, but we hope you would never have to put that spec to the test. With very low cut-in speeds of less than 6mph, you will get charging amps on the slightest breeze. All their models come with auto-braking and manual braking system protection, over charge and over-speed protection. The 3600 rotation of the power head keeps the unit into the wind, even when you are docked or med-moored. Simple plug and play setup with an internal MPPT (Maximum Power Point Tracking) charge controller makes the DB400 an easy to install unit, while their other models feature a remote charge controller. Works well when combined with solar chargers. At 16.75 lbs., it is lighter in weight than the Superwind, and it's seven times less expensive at around $400.00 for the DB400.

https://www.automaxxwindmill.com/

3.) MarineKinetix MK4

One look at this brand's marketing home page is like an advanced course in wind generator physics. The list of specs for it's models is truly impressive. Not only do they boast all the latest technologies featured in their product, they explain all the scientific jargon they use in terms us simple sailors can understand. They have been providing wind generators to the sailing community for 8 years now, and have a devoted following.

If you need to know the difference between $400.00 wind generators and $1,800 units, check out the product overview section of their website.

The MarineKinetix brand has the the industries best 3 year limited warranty, so they must be pretty sure about their product.

The 12v models of this brand are currently out of stock, due to parts supplier back-orders, but if you are in the market, there are plenty of 24v and 48v units in stock.  https://store.marinebeam.com/marinekinetix-mk4-marine-wind-generator/

4.) Rutland 1200

One of the quieter wind generators out there, the U.K. made Rutland has a long track record of dependability and customer satisfaction. A manual switch is used to stop the blades when high wind is expected, there is no auto-brake. The Rutland can be combined with solar panels up to 20A, and can be also be used with deep cycle gel or AGM batteries, and there is a remote digital display available. One of the Rutland's best features is it's Tri-namic Blade profile design, which achieves low start-up speeds, silent operation in any wind, and maximum power transfer from wind to rotor. Overall good performance and features for the $1,600.00 price tag. https://www.emarineinc.com/Rutland-1200-Wind-Turbine

5.) DuoGen-3

Wind generators are a fairly common sight in most anchorages, and towable generating devices have been around for some time. The DuoGen-3 combines the two into one multi-use charging system. Underway, the high strength carbon fiber mast is lowered down to submerge the blades. At anchor, the unit functions like a typical wind generator. The results are impressive. In the water mode, the DuoGen-3 generates 200 Watts @ 16 amps cruising at 8 knots. Wind generators do not do well sailing downwind, so this may just be the answer. Available in 12v and 24v versions. Charging regulators are not included, so monitors and controllers have to be matched to the unit and sourced locally. https://eclectic-energy.co.uk/

Choosing the right wind generator for your vessel should be a pretty straightforward process, once you have an idea of your needs, the area you will be cruising in, and how long you expect to be 'off the grid'. If one generator is simply not enough because of the size of your battery banks and the load you put on them, you may need to purchase a pair of turbines. Customer support and availability of parts may be the determining factor in your purchase. Talk to other wind generator owners, and get a feel for what they have experienced with their current of former wind generators.

Related Articles

I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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How much wind or sea state is too much?

• Thread starter spartacus99
• Start date May 26, 2015
• Catalina Owner Forums
• Catalina 22

spartacus99

Yesterday the kids loved it because "it was bumpy", and the dolphins apparently like sail boats (It was really neat). Winds were around 15 - 18 kts and I sailed with only the main up. The sea was 2-3 feet and choppy, at one point the bow nosed up and slapped down kinda hard. I figured that any worse and my personal limits would be reached. Do you have personal limits? Are there official limits you have heard of? Lastly, if I'm reducing the sail I carry, is it better to use the main or jib only?  

Balance, reef main and use some jib...  

ShotgunSlim

I've been out in similar conditions on a lake by myself and found that trying to reef a main sail is no fun without some help. So when the wind pipes up, I drop the main and go on the 110 jib alone. The boat seems to respond and sail better and 6.5 mph on one sail and in control is good enough for me.  

Rely on your comfort and skill level plus the safety of your people on board. If in doubt, reef or drop sails! Chief  

For me, it's too much when it's no fun anymore. I'm certain the boat can handle way more than I can. I agree with ShotgunSlim: when the winds get too high for my liking, I prefer to drop the main altogether and just use the jib. It just seems easier. Plus, it leaves me the option of heaving to, if I need to catch my breath and relax the ol' pucker muscle for a minute.  

I think you will find on the C22 that it sails quite well with just the jib. With just the main I found it hard to get to where I wanted to go. It is a masthead rig so the jib does most of the work anyway.  

kito said: I think you will find on the C22 that it sails quite well with just the jib. With just the main I found it hard to get to where I wanted to go. It is a masthead rig so the jib does most of the work anyway. Click to expand

There is no set and fast rule for any one individual. The max wind and sea state you should expose your crew to, is that which they most enjoy and you can safely return them to port from. Baby steps. Slowly increase your and their exposure while improving skills. Scare the bejeepers out of yourself or others and that could end your or their sailing adventures forever. I have sailed many boats, and other than those designed for one sail, have yet to see one that sails best under only one sail. A balanced sail works better. When sailing under full foresail alone, especially a smaller sail like a working jib, the COE (centre of effort) is brought way forward of the CLR (centre of lateral resistance), increasing lee helm and reducing pointing ability. This can cause a knockdown if over-powered, with the foresail alone causing the boat to fall off when it needs to turn up to spill wind. Sailing to weather under foresail alone is about the best way to lay the boat down, especially if one gets knocked by a wave from windward, when the boat is trying to round up. A mainsail alone moves the COE well aft, inducing weather helm. Also impairing pointing ability. Reefing the main and jib (furler or smaller hank on), keeps the forces balanced and brings the whole COE down, (heeling moment in relation to righting moment) reducing heeling. Most boats properly reefed and balanced in high winds, feel like they are on rails and actually sail much better than with full sail in moderate winds. The whole point is to match sail area (as low and as balanced as possible with just a little weather helm) to wind conditions. Ramblin' Rod www.sheenmarine.com  

Leeward Rail

Rod has made the major point in this IMO, and I think it worth repeating. If safety is the concern (and it should always be), then sailing with balanced main and headsail is what is needed. As wind speed increases, the need to have the boat balanced becomes more important. You sure as heck don't want the boat to keep trying to turn away/fall off from the wind in heavier winds. One moment of inattention and the boat could be on it's side. I started sailing on dinghy sailboats and cats, where you can usually safely push the limits, so you can learn how a boat handles with different sail trim. It was amazing to me, at the time, how little changes in trim can improve handling. Trim it right and a sailboat's easier to sail. Trim is not just about speed. The bigger the boat, the harder it is to notice the results. In a small boat you feel it right away. It's not like someone would be willing to take a C22 out and intentionally lay the boat on it's ear, but with a good book on sail trim, and a day of moderate winds, you can experiment with different sail configurations and feel the results.  

My first sailboat was a 12' Hobie catamaran and we would capsize her regularly and it was so much fun! It was also teaching us to learn to sail to the limits of her abilities and ours. Great boat to learn on. This same concept is used by off road dirt motorcycle racers. Run so fast you crash in order to know your limits. Chief  

My and mates discomfort level is easily reached. I sailed 3 prior boats with a reef point in working jib and 2 reefs in main. I always reef down sooner than later. If in any doubt I double reef main and fly a storm jib. Better safe and slow but in control than white knuckled and in doubt. New sails on c22 will also be this way. It is a personal choice. James  

Chief RA said: My first sailboat was a 12' Hobie catamaran and we would capsize her regularly and it was so much fun! It was also teaching us to learn to sail to the limits of her abilities and ours. Great boat to learn on. This same concept is used by off road dirt motorcycle racers. Run so fast you crash in order to know your limits. Chief Click to expand

Leeward Rail said: Exactly. In regards to limits on the c22... I've seen posts that said a c22 was ok in 35knts with a skilled sailor . Anyone sailing in San Francisco bay with a c22 would know for sure. Of course rigging and sail config can make a huge difference. Click to expand

Winds 15-20 kts,seas 1 -2 feet...So I took some cues from this thread yesterday, it was a totally different experience. I kept main up and added the jib, I controlled heel by spilling wind as necessary on the main, keeping pointed higher into the wind, and keeping the sails tightened up to reduce camber. With balanced sails the boat didn't flop up and slap the water as much as she punched through the chop, splashing the kids to their extreme delight. We held about 4.5 - 4.9 kts upwind (close reach?), 5.8 on the broad reach. Guys ! I was sailing! In fact CINCHOUSE demanded that we had to go home or I don't think I would have stopped sailing...ever. I even, on the way home, got to work on jybing and what is it called when the jib is on one side and the main is on the other side going down wind? ....I know nothing...  

Anyways... just an epic day for the clan.  

spartacus99 said: Winds 15-20 kts,seas 1 -2 feet...So I took some cues from this thread yesterday, it was a totally different experience. I kept main up and added the jib, I controlled heel by spilling wind as necessary on the main, keeping pointed higher into the wind, and keeping the sails tightened up to reduce camber. With balanced sails the boat didn't flop up and slap the water as much as she punched through the chop, splashing the kids to their extreme delight. We held about 4.5 - 4.9 kts upwind (close reach?), 5.8 on the broad reach. Guys ! I was sailing! In fact CINCHOUSE demanded that we had to go home or I don't think I would have stopped sailing...ever. I even, on the way home, got to work on jybing and what is it called when the jib is on one side and the main is on the other side going down wind? ....I know nothing... Click to expand

Stu Jackson

spartacus99 said: I even, on the way home, got to work on jybing and what is it called when the jib is on one side and the main is on the other side going down wind? ....I know nothing... Click to expand

JudyB: Very Nice post. Sums it up very nicely. spartacus99: Awesome ! Congratulations. As for "knowing nothing"... You know more now, than many people who have had sailboats for years. One of the many reasons I love sailing, is that I'm always learning something new.  

I am enjoying following your experiences, thanks James  

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2 wounded by propeller when sailboat and motorboat collide off massachusetts.

Two people were wounded by a boat propeller after a motorboat and a sailboat collided off the coast of Massachusetts Friday afternoon, officials said.

The boats crashed around 12:30 p.m. in Hingham Bay in the area of Grape Island — about 15 miles south of Boston, the Weymouth Police Department confirmed to The Post.

The 38-foot power boat was heading out from Hingham into the main channel when it struck the 21-foot sailboat, the US Coast Guard told WCVB .

A male and female passenger who were onboard the sailboat appeared to have suffered injuries consistent with propeller strikes, authorities said. Officials said the female’s injuries were serious.

The Weymouth Police Department’s marine unit arrived at the scene first and applied tourniquets to the victims’ wounds before they were taken to local hospitals.

Two people on board the motorboat were taken in for questioning, according to the outlet.

Overhead footage from WCVB showed the sailboat nearly completely submerged in the water behind the motorboat, surrounded by authorities.

The Massachusetts Environmental Police will be investigating. 

The Post has reached out to the agency and USCG for additional information.

Advertisement

An Oregon man was trapped 95 miles from shore in violent seas, his boat sinking; the rescue effort tested Coast Guard’s limits

T he Coast Guard rescue swimmer gripped the starboard side of the sinking sailboat in the dark as the waves beat against him. He called out to the man standing on the boat as a helicopter hovered overhead.

“You’re going to jump,” Miles LeComer shouted over the sound of the wind and rotor wash and waves. “And I’m going to grab you.”

David Haight had a briefcase and a knapsack ready with some of the few valuable possessions he took with him on what was supposed to be a journey from Newport to Santa Barbara. LeComer, barely able to hold onto the sailboat as it rolled up and down on the waves more than 90 miles offshore, told Haight he could only take what was in his pockets. He gave him one minute to prepare.

Haight, his sailboat disappearing beneath him, didn’t need the minute. He jumped, crashing into the frigid Pacific Ocean, engulfed, immediately knocked about by 15-foot-tall waves. He went under.

A hand grabbed him and held on.

‘There wasn’t anything to feel’

Sitting in an Elmer’s Restaurant in Clackamas about a month after his rescue, Haight, 69, flashed a sly grin that hinted at the other wild stories in his past — and possibly in his future, too.

There was the arrest, when he was 24, when he and four others were caught by federal officials trying to smuggle 40,000 pounds of marijuana from Colombia to Florida by ship. And the time he and his girlfriend at the time found a dinghy abandoned in a Florida swamp, restored it and sailed it on both the East and West coasts.

But the misadventure in July that cost him his beloved sailboat, the Windswept II, hit him hard. After all, it wasn’t until Haight’s 60s that he was able to fully live the dream that he had cooked up as a child.

One of three sons, Haight grew up in Depoe Bay in a family of strict Jehovah’s Witnesses. Before he was even a teenager, he realized he believed none of what he was being told and yearned to escape his parents’ restrictive household. Sailing was one outlet. A local resident owned a small boat that he let the kids in town sail on, and Haight took every opportunity he had, between school and working in his parents’ restaurant.

Owning his own sailboat and exploring the world became his “secret wish,” the one he’d whisper to himself when blowing out his birthday candles, he said.

“You never run out of fuel,” Haight said. “You can go as far as you want.”

Haight came close to that dream in his early 20s, when he and a girlfriend briefly owned a sailboat in California and lived on it. But the dream collapsed when, working as a commercial fisherman, Haight was asked if he wanted to smuggle marijuana from Colombia into Florida. He needed the money, so he said OK.

It was his first attempt to smuggle drugs, Haight said. When the boat reached Tampa Bay, U.S. Customs Service agents boarded it, their guns drawn, and found about $14 million worth of marijuana, according to news articles at the time. Four of the five arrested men “appeared weathered from several weeks at sea,” The Tampa Times wrote on May 23, 1978.

Haight and his girlfriend sold the sailboat, and he served two years in federal prison, getting out in 1982. In the decades since, he worked mostly in construction and waited tables. He scuba-dived most of his life, and picked up hang-gliding in the early 1990s.

“I was just a regular guy,” he said.

After his mother died in 2013, Haight and his brothers sold her house, which dropped $66,000 into Haight’s lap. With that cash infusion, he bought the Windswept II, a 38-foot, 1999 fiberglass sailboat, in 2018. After outfitting it for a long trip, he sailed to Mexico in 2022. In July 2023, he sailed to Hawaii, then to Newport, in preparation for his next trip south.

He set sail from Newport on June 29, planning to stop in Santa Barbara to finish preparing the boat for a longer trip to Mexico. He headed out to sea around 1:30 p.m. under a clear, cloudless sky. The forecast called for storms south of his location, but nothing he couldn’t handle.

Haight sailed into a storm that was worse than expected, however. Winds nearly 60 miles per hour pushed his sailboat around for two days straight.

Unable to sail in those conditions, Haight decided to “hove to,” essentially putting his boat in park, while it drifted southeast.

He was in his bunk on July 2 when he heard a strange sound — the rattle of the sailboat’s automatic bilge pump. Designed to turn on if water seeped into the boat and reached a certain level, it had never activated before in the six years he’d sailed on the boat. Haight pulled up the floorboard and saw water in the bilge.

Oh, I’m sinking, Haight thought.

But he wasn’t afraid.

“There wasn’t anything to feel,” he added. “There was just to do.”

When he realized the pump wasn’t keeping up with the rising water, he concluded he urgently needed help.

“Mayday, mayday. This is sailing vessel Windswept II,” Haight said into the radio, to anyone who might hear him, then gave his location and said his boat was taking on water.

The Coast Guard took the call, and offered to bring him a larger pump. A ship nearby listened in to the conversation and diverted course to stand by in case Haight needed extra help.

Haight thought this response would solve the problem. But then his bilge pump broke — and a back-up pump shorted out. Haight now knew he was really in trouble.

“That was when I got concerned,” Haight said.

By around 11 p.m. on July 2, he was 95 miles off shore, standing in the cabin of the boat in ankle-deep ocean water.

Then the boat’s engine broke down, too, leaving him helpless in the wind and waves as the water sloshed over Haight’s feet.

‘Are you good?’

Commander Jay Kircher was asleep in his North Bend home on July 2 when his cell phone rang. It was 10:25 p.m. There was a man in a sailboat off the coast taking on water, he was told.

Kircher got out of bed, sat down in the living room and started making calls, quickly preparing an operation to help, and potentially rescue, the man. Kircher was worried about how far the helicopter would have to fly — the man was probably too far away for a boat to reach him in time — as well as the sea conditions and the darkness. Kircher requested that a Coast Guard airplane be deployed to circle the scene and monitor the operation from above, in case there was an emergency.

It was obvious this would be a difficult operation. The distance from shore — about 83 nautical miles west of Brookings, or about 95 land-measured miles — meant they would be alone if they had a problem and needed help themselves. Because of the masts and rigging on any sailboat, it was going to be difficult, if not impossible, to lift the man in distress off of the deck. And the gale-force winds and the high waves meant both the pilot and a rescue swimmer would have extreme conditions to contend with.

“It was right on our limits, basically, for range,” Kircher said.

A crew departed North Bend in an MH-65 Dolphin helicopter at 11:17 p.m., July 2, for Brookings. They were carrying with them a 105-pound pump they planned to deliver to the sailboat — with both Haight’s pump and the Coast Guard pump working at the same time, there was a chance to save the boat.

By the time they landed around midnight, Haight had told the Coast Guard via radio that his own pump had failed, meaning he needed to be rescued. The Coast Guard crew unloaded the pump, fueled up to the top, and the pilot plugged the sinking boat’s GPS coordinates into his flight computer.

There were four of them in the helicopter: the pilot-in-command, a co-pilot, a rescue swimmer and a flight mechanic; the latter would be in charge of dropping the swimmer down into the ocean and then lifting him and the survivor up into the helicopter.

Pilot-in-Command Brandon Books, 30, brought the helicopter to about 500 feet above the water, under the clouds, where it was so dark the crew flew the whole way wearing night-vision goggles.

“Are any of you guys a little bit nervous?” the flight mechanic asked.

“Yeah, man,” Books said. “I’m a little bit nervous.”

Books, originally from Whitefish, Montana, got hooked on the idea of becoming a U.S. Coast Guard pilot as a kid while watching an episode of the reality TV show “Deadliest Catch” where the Coast Guard rescued fishermen, he said. On this day, Books was in the final weeks of his first assignment as a Coast Guard pilot.

The four of them flew for about 50 minutes before Books spotted the sole light shining from the top of the Windswept II’s main mast around 1:20 a.m.

When the helicopter appeared out of the darkness, Haight became more optimistic about his chances of survival.

In most missions of this sort, rescuers want to drop the rescuer onto the surface of the boat using a cable. That’s hard, if not impossible, with a sailboat, because of all the masts and sails and ropes and cords, especially in rough weather.

LeComer, the rescue swimmer, would have to go into the ocean and swim to the boat.

That wasn’t going to be easy either.

As the helicopter hovered, Books looked down at the waves. They were large, even larger than they’d expected.

“That’s kind of big,” Books said to LeComer over the helicopter communications system. “Are you good?”

“Oh,” LeComer said, “I’m ready to go.”

LeComer, 28, scooted to the door and the mechanic hoisted him out over the ocean and lowered him into the water.

LeComer, with a snorkel in his mouth and fins on his feet, quickly detached the hook from his harness and fixed the sailboat in his line of sight. The seas were so rough that his chief concern was that he might run out of strength while trying to swim to the sailboat. It didn’t help that when he fell into a trough between waves the Windswept II would sometimes disappear from his view.

When he reached the boat he realized it was too far gone for him to be able to climb onto it safely. The boat was leaning on its side, partially submerged. LeComer grabbed a line Haight had thrown into the water and pulled himself to the right side of the boat.

Haight had a briefcase and a bag ready with his belongings — including his high-school diploma, the ship’s log, and a cigar box with family keepsakes. He asked LeComer if he could take his bag with him.

“Only what’s in your pockets,” LeComer shouted. “I’ll give you one minute.”

Haight, wearing a life jacket, a long-sleeve shirt, jacket, jeans and tennis shoes, put his passport, the keys to his storage locker in Depoe Bay and some cash in his pockets and jumped into the water. LeComer grabbed him and, swimming sideways, kicked his fins while holding onto Haight with his right arm, propping him up on his hip.

Books, who had flown the helicopter about 50 yards away so the helicopter wouldn’t drown out their voices when LeComer and Haight tried to communicate, flew back once he saw LeComer detach from the sailboat.

“It’s going to be loud and windy,” LeComer said.

That’s when he noticed that Haight seemed almost calm, “a pretty seasoned mariner.”

After he hooked Haight onto his harness, LeComer gave a thumbs up to the helicopter hovering 100 feet above them, and the mechanic dropped the cable with the hook. The heavy waves and wind bounced LeComer and Haight around, moving them off-course from the descending cable.

They needed to put the cable right on the two dots in the ocean that were LeComer and Haight, a tough feat for even the most skilled pilot and mechanic in such conditions.

“Forward and right 10,” the flight mechanic said to Books, who then maneuvered the 9,000-pound helicopter about 10 yards as directed, then overshot by another 10 yards. “Back 10.”

Finally — after about eight minutes — LeComer was able to grab the cable. He attached it to his harness, gave the flight mechanic another thumbs up and the two soon were in the air.

Once they were in the helicopter, LeComer checked over Haight and concluded he didn’t need to go to a hospital. He gave him a warming blanket, and Books turned on the autopilot, lifting the helicopter up to 500 feet and directed it back toward Brookings. It was 1:42 a.m., just 22 minutes since the Coast Guard helicopter had arrived.

They flew under the clouds in almost complete darkness until Books spied clouds that were a little thinner.

“Do you want to climb up above these clouds?” Books asked the co-pilot.

“Yeah, it looks like it’ll be nicer up there,” the co-pilot said.

They climbed to about 1,500 feet above sea level, where they could see the stars. The relief was palpable once they spotted the shore lights, Books said.

While the Coast Guard crew regularly goes out on challenging rescue missions, this one on July 3 was particularly difficult, given how far the sinking boat was from shore, the weather and the condition of the sea.

The operation, Kircher said, “was kind of in a different league.”

‘Not over yet’

When LeComer got home early on the morning of the rescue, he scarfed down a breakfast burrito and called his mom to tell her an abbreviated version of the operation.

“Thanks for putting me in swimming lessons, mom,” LeComer said to her.

Books worked another week, wrapping up his three-and-a-half year assignment in North Bend. Three weeks later, he was in New Jersey for his new assignment.

Haight never figured out why his sailboat sprung a leak. It’s possible that part of the boat had been weakened while stuck on a sandbar the previous year, then was stressed too much by the strong winds on his way to California. But it had survived plenty of strong storms before the one that sank the boat, so he’s still unsure.

He bought a car in Portland and is planning to drive to Mexico to visit friends. While he hasn’t come to terms with losing his boat, he’s grateful for the opportunity the Windswept II gave him — and for the Coast Guard crew that saved him from it.

“How often does somebody get to live their dream?” Haight said. “And I’m still living my dream. It is not over yet.”

Correction: This article has been updated to correct two errors: David Haight was arrested while trying to smuggle 40,000 pounds of marijuana, not tons, and his sailboat was made of fiberglass, not wood.

— Fedor Zarkhin is a breaking news and enterprise reporter. Do you have a story? Reach him at 971-373-2905; fzarkhin@oregonian.

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©2024 Advance Local Media LLC. Visit oregonlive.com. Distributed by Tribune Content Agency, LLC.

Watch CBS News

Hurricane Ernesto continues to bring life-threatening conditions to East Coast, forecasters say

By Li Cohen , Lucia Suarez Sang

Updated on: August 19, 2024 / 10:01 PM EDT / CBS News

Hurricane Ernesto  continued to send powerful swells toward the U.S. East Coast Monday afternoon, generating "dangerous" beach conditions as the storm moved further out into the Atlantic Ocean, according to forecasters.

Swells caused by Ernesto will continue to impact portions of the Bahamas, Bermuda, the U.S. East Coast and the Canadian east coast. Ernesto's center is expected to pass southeastern Newfoundland on Monday night and early Tuesday, when it is forecast to become extratropical.

"Life-threatening surf and rip current conditions are likely to continue in these areas during the next day or so," the Miami-based hurricane center said Monday. "In southeastern Newfoundland large breaking waves could bring the possibility of coastal flooding, particularly along southwest-facing shorelines from Burin east to Avalon regions." 

The National Weather Service posted a coastal flood advisory and warned of high risk from the rip currents along the Atlantic Coast through Monday evening. Forecasters said the currents "can sweep even the best swimmers away from shore into deeper water."

Forecasters, citing local emergency management, said a 41-year-old man drowned Saturday in a rip current at Surf City, North Carolina. Two men drowned Friday in separate incidents on Hilton Head Island, South Carolina, but it was unclear whether rip currents from Ernesto were involved, officials told CBS News on Saturday.  

The National Hurricane Center said Ernesto remained a Category 1 hurricane on Monday. The storm was moving northeast and was expected to increase in speed but begin to weaken Monday evening. It was forecast to "lose tropical characteristics" within a day or so, the center said.   

Ernesto's swells come as the Northeast faces a system moving in from the Great Lakes. In Connecticut, that system unleashed what Gov. Ned Lamont called a " historic storm in some areas." He said that at least 100 people were evacuated by search and rescue teams on Sunday night after much of the state was battered with flash flooding and mudslides. 

"We are urging you to stay home if you can until the flooding has receded, and definitely do not ever attempt to drive through any flooded roads," Lamont said on Sunday. "A good number of roads in the western portion of the state are closed and are expected to remain closed for an extended period."

More showers and thunderstorms are expected in the area through Monday night, the National Weather Service said. 

Ernesto battered Bermuda as a hurricane

Ernesto made landfall in the tiny North Atlantic Island of Bermuda early Saturday morning as a Category 1 hurricane, knocking out power to thousands and dropping several inches of rain as residents hunkered down.

After slowly moving out away from the island, it was downgraded to a tropical storm — before becoming a hurricane again on Sunday.

Belco, Bermuda's utility provider, reported midday Sunday that more than 12,200 customers were without power, about 34% of the island. The storm also downed trees across the tiny and wealthy island.

Bermuda Security Minister Michael Weeks said Sunday morning that businesses were beginning to open in the tiny British territory after the storm passed and "we are on our way back to living a life of normalcy." There were no reports of major infrastructure damage, said Lyndon Raynor of Bermuda's Disaster Risk Reduction Mitigation Team.

Puerto Rico and the U.S. Virgin Islands

Ernesto caused damage in Puerto Rico and the U.S. Virgin Islands last week. It passed north of the region as a tropical storm that managed to knock out power to hundreds of thousands of residents. At one point, 23 hospitals were operating on generators. Schools and numerous roads were also closed.

A spokesperson for Puerto Rico's electricity provider, LUMA Energy, told CBS News that at the outage's peak, 750,000 customers were without power. 

The U.S. Virgin Islands had about 46,000 out of power at one point on Wednesday — nearly all customers. As of Saturday morning, that number was down to about 7,000,  according to PowerOutage.us .

Rivers across Puerto Rico were swollen after nearly 10 inches of rain. 

Officials were forced to open floodgates at a dam along the La Plata River. Sirens warned residents in the nearby municipality of Toa Baja to evacuate their homes in case of flooding.

Puerto Rico's power grid was  wiped out in 2017 by Hurricane Maria , which slammed the island as a strong Category 4 storm.

"The government today is much better prepared," said Juan Saca, president and CEO of LUMA Energy. "… We have a plan that you can go into our website and take a look at the plan."

President Biden approved an  emergency declaration  for Puerto Rico, the White House said Tuesday night, authorizing FEMA to help with storm recovery. 

Ernesto is the fifth named storm so far of the Atlantic hurricane season, which has already proven to be  historic after Beryl reached record strength  at the beginning of the season in above-average temperatures of the Gulf of Mexico.

NOAA has predicted an above-normal season, with 17-25 named storms, eight to 13 hurricanes, and four to seven major hurricanes. The fifth-named storm typically doesn't form until  Aug. 22 , according to NOAA. 

Editor's Note: Due to an editing error, an earlier version of this story reported 975,000 customers had lost power in Puerto Rico, but that was the number of customers who still had power, according to Puerto Rico's electricity provider.

Manuel Bojorquez and Dave Malkoff contributed to this report.

• Weather Forecast
• Virgin Islands
• National Weather Service
• Tropical Storm
• Puerto Rico
• Atlantic Ocean
• National Hurricane Center

Li Cohen is a senior social media producer at CBS News. She previously wrote for amNewYork and The Seminole Tribune. She mainly covers climate, environmental and weather news.

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Tornado in Ayr, Ont., classified as an upper level EF1

An investigation from Western University’s Northern Tornadoes Project has classified Saturday’s tornado in Ayr , Ont., as an EF1.

“Sometimes we go into a situation like that where we’re not sure if it was a tornado or not, it might have been a down burst, so in that case we’re looking for evidence about a long, narrow damage path. With this event, there were lots of videos and photos. So we knew we were looking at a tornado even before we got there,” David Sills, Executive Director of the Northern Tornadoes Project told CTV News Kitchener during an interview on Sunday afternoon.

Once Sills’ team arrived, investigation included ground and drone surveys of the tornado’s path and the heavily damaged area in the Greenfield Drive and Northumberland Street area.

In a news release , the organization said, “The tornado caused structural, vehicle and tree damage - with a preliminary rating of EF1 - along a narrow path over 5 km in length. Empty rail cars and a tractor-trailer were overturned, and two trailers were tossed.”

Sills said his team will continue to investigate what happened, and the classification of the tornado could still change as more information becomes available.

“We’ll look to see if there’s anything, any data, to show that it should go higher. Because there was some pretty impressive damage. Things like rail cars being blown over and trees that were basically scattered every which way, including against the direction of the tornado which is not typically common for a weak tornado.”

Sills added this tornado would be considered a particularly strong EF1 tornado.

“This is upper end EF1, almost to EF2. Some of the damage we did see was pretty impressive. The roof on the Home Hardware – the back part of it was mostly off. One wall was collapsed. Those train cars that were tipped over. There was one trailer that was actually lofted in the air and thrown on its top.”

The release said videos and photos show the tornado developed near Wolverton and tracked eastward toward Ayr.

The survey team believes the tornado had a maximum wind speed of 165 km/h and a track length of 5.23 km with a maximum path width of 230 metres.

Sills said the investigators believe the tornado lasted less than 20 minutes.

“That’s what makes it so very hard to warn for. The target lead time for a tornado warning is only ten minutes. Meaning that they’re trying to get a warning ahead of the tornado by only 10 minutes, because that’s how quickly they tend to form.”

No injuries were reported following the storm.

How tornadoes are classified

Sills said when it come to classifying a tornado, experts use what is known as the Enhanced Fujita Scale, commonly known as the EF Scale.

“The Enhanced Fujita Scale is a scale that goes from 0 to 5. What we do is look at the damage that is in front of us. Say, it’s a house – on the EF Scale we’ve got a damage indicator saying ‘house.’ Then it’s got a bunch of different degrees of damage associated with that house. We just find the one that matches the best,” Sills explained.

“Yesterday, as far as houses go, we found one house that had some roof covering removed, the shingles removed, and some structural damage. So that gets us to Degree of Damage 4. Then you go across and it’ll give you the range of wind speeds that’s usually associated with that. You’re looking for a maximum wind speed associated with each damage indicator you find, and then along the entire track of the tornado you take the maximum one, so the strongest wind speed, and that fits into the Enhanced Fujita Scale.”

Sills said an EF1 tornado has a wind speed ranging from 135 km/h to 175 km/h. He believes the tornado in Ayr had a maximum wind speed of 165 km/h.

Sills said he is surprised there hasn’t been a tornado across Canada that’s caused more damage in an urban area so far this year.

“Typically we get a number of EF2 tornadoes across the country. And this year we haven’t so far. We’ve only had EF2 tornadoes way up in the boreal forest.”

If anyone has video or photos they believe investigators should see, they can email the Northern Tornadoes Project.

Cleanup continues

The cleanup continues along Greenfield Road Sunday.

Crews were still on scene as of 10:30 a.m., removing downed trees and working on damaged hydro lines.

A security truck was parked in the Home Hardware parking lot after the building sustained heavy damage, including a partially torn off roof.

The Township of North Dumfries encourages impacted residents to visit AlertWR.ca for a checklist of what to do after an emergency.

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