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The 48 best clubs and nightclubs in Moscow

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47 dissident, 48 05 | 06 bebe, top searches in moscow, popular road trips from moscow, what's the weather like in moscow.

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• Everett Yacht Club’s New Clubhouse Now Open

April 4, 2024

This is the 4th clubhouse location for the Everett Yacht Club, which formed in 1907.

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The new clubhouse has been three years in the making. In 2021, EYC leased the Port’s former Marina Office building in Marina Village and invested over $1 million to renovate it. The club’s reciprocal moorage moved to South E Dock near the building that same year.

The new multi-story clubhouse at 1720 West Marine View Drive has indoor and outdoor spaces for member meetings, classes and events. It features a kitchen, bar and elevator, plus convenient access to the Port’s nearby Commodore Plaza and South Marina facilities.

“ The Everett Yacht Club has a long-standing history on the waterfront and has been a valued partner of the Port for decades ,” Port Commission President Tom Stiger said. “ As the largest public marina on the West Coast, the yacht club provides a great benefit and resource to our boating community. We look forward to many more memories being made here at the waterfront, and watching the next generation of boaters continue the legacy at this new clubhouse .”

“ This clubhouse isn’t just a building, it’s our new home, ” Everett Yacht Club Commodore George B. Sauer said. “ It’s a place where friendships flourish, laughter will echo through the halls, and cherished moments will be shared. It’s a space that embodies the spirit and comraderies and community that define the Everett Yacht Club. ”

EYC’s most recent space, near the Port’s Boxcar Park, is in a state of disrepair. It is programmed for demolition to make way for a new hospitality/restaurant concept in Phase 3 of the Port’s Waterfront Place mixed-use development.

The Port has invested over $165 million into its marina assets since the early 2000’s and more than $150 million to date to unify the marina and surrounding uplands as part of the Waterfront Place mixed-use development, with more to come.

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Nightlife City Guide

Moscow: nightlife and clubs

Moscow nightlife: despite the freezing weather, the Russian capital gets hot as the sun goes down. Between discos, luxury, exaggerated parties and beautiful Russian girls, the Moscow nightlife offers everything you need for memorable nights.

Moscow nightlife

The city of Moscow is definitely one of the most interesting European cities: the stories about underground lines and secret bunkers, the architecture of its buildings, from the Kremlin to St. Basil's Cathedral, up to the Soviet style of the Seven Sisters and modern skyscrapers, make the Russian capital is a unique and fascinating city.

One of the many things that Moscow is famous for is its wild nightlife . Moscow never sleeps. If there is anything true about Russians, it is that they love to party! Despite its freezing weather, Moscow turns out to be a hot city with endless fun, hip nightclubs, extreme luxury, beautiful Russian girls and lots of booze when night falls!

In fact, in recent years, the Russian capital has definitively abandoned the gray period of communism and its inhabitants have given vent to their desire for fun. As you might expect in a city of over 12 million people, Moscow has an amazing array of nightlife options and a huge choice for all tastes, whether you are a jazz fan, hardcore clubbers or just plain old alcoholics. The nightlife in Moscow winds through a multitude of alternative and transgressive nightclubs where the watchword is to meet new people and spend a night of unbridled and uninhibited fun . In addition to the numerous discos, in the Russian capital there are also 20 casinos open until dawn. For those who want a break of intriguing relaxation, in the city of Moscow there are also numerous massage salons .

Most of Moscow's nightclubs contain a restaurant, a bar area and a nightclub (the larger ones also have bowling alleys, billiards and a casino!). Perhaps because Moscow is such a large metropolis with very cold temperatures and taxis are so expensive that the owners of the bars and clubs want to offer their customers an all in one place for night entertainment.

So, in other words, Moscow is not the best city in the world for bar-crawling, especially bearing in mind that these multipurpose venues often charge entrance, but rather it is better to carefully choose the club where to spend the night.

For a quieter and more sober evening, head for an evening stroll along the Via Arbat or the Red Square to be fascinated by the lights of the city and the grandeur of the buildings, and admire the shops and street artists. An alternative to experience Moscow's nightlife is to spend an evening of lyric, ballet or opera. The Russian capital is home to around sixty theaters, the most famous of which is the world-renowned Bolshoi Theater (Theater Square, 1, Moscow).

Moscow nightlife districts

Moscow's nightlife is not concentrated in a single district but is scattered throughout the city. However, there are areas with a greater concentration of bars and nightclubs .

The Krasnij Oktjabr (Russian for "Red October") complex, a red brick building located on the island in the center of the Moscow River that once housed a chocolate factory, is dotted with numerous trendy nightclubs and offers spectacular views of the river and the symbolic places of the Russian capital. This is where the most glamorous parties in Moscow take place, there are numerous bars, restaurants and art galleries.

Other neighborhoods with good nightlife are the old manufactory area near the Russian government building which houses some bars, the area around the Trubnaya metro and around Kuznetsky Most , while the Kurskaya groups the clubs with electronic music. We can also mention the area of ​​the Patriarch's ponds, an area that is teeming with quiet bars.

Clubs and discos in Moscow

The crowd is very mixed. Students, young professionals, techno lovers, tourists all gather at Propaganda. Everyone comes to enjoy the music and have fun. It is one of the few clubs where the dancefloor dominates and there are hardly any tables, apart from a few that overlook the entire space. Propaganda is a restaurant until midnight. You can come earlier for dinner and stay for dancing. After midnight, the staff clears the tables from the dance floor and the whole place turns into a club. The place is different from the usual Moscow restaurant / club hybrids, however, because the atmosphere changes completely from "relaxed restaurant" to "underground electro club". Not to be missed.

There are more areas with different music. In the first area, expect a mix of traditional music and Russian pop songs. In the second, slightly larger area, there is live Russian pop music until 2am. After that it is mostly some kind of electronic music. The club is frequented by beautiful Russian girls around 18-25 years old, stunning students or models, and of course there is a good deal of young Russians, middle-aged men and foreign tourists trying their luck! Unlike many other nightclubs, the Icon is a pure nightclub and not a club turned into a restaurant. In any case, if you like to party in a big club and want to savor the typical Moscow nightlife , this is the perfect solution.

The crowd is the same as in other high-end Moscow clubs. Men are rarely under the age of 35 and are committed to giving the impression that money is not an issue. The women are amazing even by Moscow nightlife - if you want to meet Moscow's super models, this is the place! Ideal if you want to toast with the Moscow elite.

The club is located on two floors. The lower floor is mainly frequented by people hanging out at the bar and is good for conversation. The narrow stairs that perfectly fit the student atmosphere of the club take you to the main floor where the real party takes place, complete with a bedlam and girls dancing on the bar counter. In the summer months there is also an outdoor terrace. The place is always crowded and bouncers unnecessarily queue people - having a table or someone inside can be the key to skipping the queue. Otherwise, you might end up waiting half an hour or more. Come early or come back late if you want to avoid the crowds.

The crowd that frequents this club is quite mixed. People are less trendy and more underground. The place is suitable for afterhours, so most people arrive from 3am onwards.

Immediately upon entering, you will have the feeling that you have come to the local high school graduation prom instead of a real Moscow nightclub. There is no real interior design, but basically just a large hall with a stage and a bar. The crowd is almost entirely made up of teenagers and young people. Not many of the teens speak English, but it probably doesn't matter after all the alcohol. The music ranges from Russian pop and hip-hop to the most famous international hits. Perfect if you want to party and drink alcohol in one of the cheapest clubs in Moscow .

Here too, it's full of beautiful girls and it's also a great place to hit them off, as those who come here are notoriously more approachable. The advice is to be very firm with the girls who approach and to make your intentions clear. If you want to be 100% sure to get in, come at 2am when the club is still uncrowded.

Oblaka plays a mix of Russian and international pop music. Occasionally, as in many other clubs, there are performances by Russian pop singers. As is often the case in these types of clubs, the music and DJ are not the best but the guests don't seem to care.

Moscow's bars and pubs

The bar looks similar but still distinctly different than regular Moscow posh clubs. Most of the people who frequent this place are over 25, and you can find everything from young professionals to creative types to self-proclaimed models. Great if you want to see the "real Muscovites" celebrate without the overblown flashes of wealth. The proposed music is a strange mix of old and new commercial songs and Russian pop.

Downstairs is a large open space that opens its doors wide in the summer. The interior is rustic, yet elegant, with wooden furnishings and plenty of seating. The interior combined with Ugolek's popularity creates a crowded yet intimate atmosphere, especially on weekends. People come to chat, drink and eat. The upstairs bar has a more welcoming atmosphere. It is smaller, with soft lighting and armchairs to be able to relax. On weekends there is a DJ who mixes electronic music and transforms the bar into a relaxed place, ideal for the pre-party.

Map of clubs, pubs and bars in Moscow

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• Brussels: nightlife and clubs

The travel guide for nocturnal animals

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Russians remain the leaders in buying Turkish real estate

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"Obydensky No. 1" became the best-selling club house in Moscow

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Moscow Nightlife • A Complete Guide

Moscow is the capital of Russia and is one of the most populated cities in the country. Apart from traditional architecture, the city has been modernized to keep up with time. The nightlife of Moscow is exceptionally vibrant. You can find several casinos, nightclubs, and bars in the city. If you were planning a trip to Moscow and were confused about what during the night, don’t worry! Here are some of the best night-time experiences that you must try in Moscow!

When can you experience the nightlife in Moscow?

Although the bars and nightclubs are open daily, it is most vibrant on Saturdays and Fridays. Moscow residents like to work hard, and only on these days, they let their guard down. You can party for 12 hours straight on these days. There is almost no crowd on the other days of the week. Usually, the nightlife of Moscow begins at 11 am. You can catch your dinner early to prepare for all the partying. Most of the parties in clubs go on till 3 am. But the fun doesn’t end there. You can look for after-party clubs after that. 

Best bars in Moscow

Moscow bars are extremely lively. From beautiful women to authentic drinks – the bars in Moscow have a lot to offer. In recent times, several establishments have popped up. If you are a tourist, it can be difficult for you to pick out the right one. To clear your confusion, you can refer to the below-mentioned list of bars for your night-out in this city: 

This joint is not extremely glamorous and yet, is one of the most popular bars in Moscow. Kamchatka is a beer bar that has a vintage Soviet feel to it. The décor of this bar makes it look like a cafeteria and adds a dash of old-world charm to it. It is one of the most affordable bars in Moscow. Most locals tend to hang out here. The menu is simple yet hearty. If you want to avoid noisy places and enjoy a drink in peace, this is where you need to be in Moscow.

• I Like Wine

The bar is appropriately named, as you can get an extensive collection of wine at this joint. Wines are collected from all parts of the world and delivered to the customers at this bar. You can even get a couple of cocktails on the menu. But mostly wine lovers visit this pub. This wine bar also has a good food menu. The prices are extremely pocket-friendly, and you can eat on a budget at this place.

• Solyanka Bar

It is one of the indie bars in Moscow. The party atmosphere of this bar is infectious. Located in an old mansion, it serves fusion cuisine during the daytime. But at night, it becomes the hippest joint in town. The drinks are expensive but worth it. The DJs play the latest hits to keep up the spirits of the partygoers. The place lives up to its indie bar reputation as the décor is extremely rustic. The brick walls, exposed bulbs, and second-hand furniture make it a go-to spot for all the hipsters in Moscow.

You can always find students in Strelka as it is one of the popular bars in the city. The view from this bar is breathtaking as it overlooks the Moscow River. The 70s inspire the décor. It is aesthetic and yet comfortable. Moreover, the cocktail menu at this bar is fantastic. The concoctions are prepared by using local ingredients. Perhaps this is the reason why bar hoppers prefer this bar over others. If you are lucky, you will be able to witness one of the weekly concerts and events held here. 

If you want to experience something vintage, this is the place you should visit. Terma Bar is one of the oldest bars in the city. You can find over 150 alcoholic beverages at this bar. The bartenders are incredibly skilled and put up a show with fire while they prepare your drinks. There is an adventurous food menu at the club which serves Uzbek cuisine. Moreover, the bar is open 24/7, so you can drop by at any time.

Do you hate bars where the music is so loud that you cannot talk to anyone else? If you do, you can visit ‘Noor.’ This electro bar is located on Tverskaya street. It is incredibly cozy, and the music’s volume levels are kept in check to promote conversations. On weekends, you will be able to attend live music events of national and international artists. The décor of this club is chic and is an ideal place to grab a couple of drinks with family and friends.

• City Space Bar and Lounge

The City Space Bar and Club provides a stunning view of Moscow. This bar is located on the 34 th floor of a hotel. It is highly exclusive, and only those who can afford to spend big bucks visit this bar. The drinks and food are not cheap at City Space Bar and Lounge. However, it is worth it!

• Mendeleev Bar

This bar might be hard to locate as it is built behind a Chinese Shop. But you should put into finding the bar as if it is worth the experience. As soon as you enter this place, you will be able to see a dark cellar. You can find a long list of alcoholic beverages at this place. Moreover, if you are lucky, you will be able to witness the occasional jazz concerts hosted in this secret bar.

• Chinese Pilot Jao Dao (Kitaysky Lyotchk Dzhao-Da)

If you want to avoid the glitz and glamour, Kitaysky Lyotchk Dzhao-Da is the perfect place for you. The décor of this bar is extremely rustic. The youth of Moscow mostly visits it because it is incredibly affordable. You can always find new artists and musicians hang out here. On almost all days of the week, you will be able to witness live music performances at Kitaysky Lyotchk Dzhao-Da. From Punk Rock to Afro beats – different kinds of artists like to perform at this joint. Moreover, you can find some of the most affordable yet best Russian wines and beers. If you feel hungry, you can try out their Russian cuisine consisting of traditional Russian soups, blinis, and salads.

Located in the former Krasny Okytyabr Factory building, Gypsy is a brightly lit, colorful bar in Moscow. There is an indoor as well as an outdoor sitting arrangement. You can sit on the terrace on the deck chairs and enjoy the beautiful view of the Moscow River. There are over 300 disco balls used to light up this place. The drinks are affordable, and you will have a good time at this place.

Go on a night tour in Moscow

Moscow is a city that is rich in terms of culture and heritage. If you are not a party person, you can ditch the usual options and book yourself a seat in one of the Moscow tour events. Several companies offer different night-time tour packages for tourists in Moscow. But why should you depend on a guide when you can roam around on your own? A food tour will help you to discover the unconventional spots in the city as well. It can be difficult for a tourist to find out about Khitrovka and Kitay Gorod on his/her own.  Try to look for tours which take you to ‘Annushka’ – the infamous former restaurant on rails in this city.

Best nightclubs in Moscow

After you have had a drink or two, you can head over to the latest dance club. There are several options for dance clubs in Moscow. People usually party till the wee hours of w night on weekends. Here are some of the best ones:

It is a highly spacious dance club that allows you to dance freely. It is built using several levels. The audio system of this club is top-notch, which is perhaps why top Russian Bands perform at this joint. The drinks are excellent as the bartender has access to some of the best alcohol in the country. Moreover, you can get good finger food to complement your drinks as well.

• Vermeil Club

As soon as you reach the club, you will be greeted by the bright lights at the entrance. Vermeil Club is located right across the river and is near Kremlin. The club has a very friendly atmosphere, and the service is top-notch. If you like to try different kinds of alcohol, this is the right place for you. You will get tons of options when it comes to beers, cocktails, and wines.

Moreover, the food is cooked perfectly and presented elegantly at Vermel Club. Since it is a dance club, you will find some of the best DJs in Moscow play at this joint. It is the perfect place to party in this city.

A lot of international as well as Russian artists play at ’16 Tons’. Located in Presnenskiy Val, it is one of the best places to dance all night long. There is a fully functional brewery at this place, and hence, you need to try out their assorted beer collection. Named after a Merle Travis song, this place is ideal for all the music lovers who like to party.

• Looking Rooms

Want to dance till the wee hours of the night in Moscow? Look no further! Looking Room is the place for you. All the regular party goers in Moscow visit this place. This club is open till midnight on every other working day. But on Fridays and Saturdays, it remains open for its customers till 6 am. The place is extremely spacious and can host around 800 people at the same time. You can find the DJs at this joint play the best House music in Moscow during one of the epic parties of ‘Looking Room.’

• Night Flight

If you are looking for something exclusive, this is the place you should be. It is not easy to get entry to this fancy nightclub in Moscow. You need to be extremely wealthy to gain access to this club. Why? Because it was built for VIPs. Located on Tverskaya Street, it is a place if you want to experience something extravagant in Moscow.

• London Night Club

Located in Prospekt Vernadskogo, the London Night club is visited by both tourists as well as locals. The staff does not discriminate between the tourists and the Russians. As long as you are ready to spend, you will get good service. The cocktails at this joint are one of the best in the city. The bar is filled with good-looking men and women. Hence, your chances of meeting someone new are quite high at London Night Club. 

This place is always bustling with energy. The Soho Rooms have been in the business for years. It was closed down in 2017 for renovations. But it is back with a bang. The club is sprawled across three floors. There is a pool as well as a bar at this club. The parties hosted by Soho Rooms go on till at least 4 am. If you like commercial music and lively places, you should pay a visit to this club.

The only word that will come to your mind when you see this club is ‘posh.’ Club Oblaka is one of Moscow’s extravagant, high-end nightclubs. Mostly the club plays Russian Pop. Unlike any other club, the party doesn’t only occur on Fridays and Saturdays. Only the rich can afford to visit this club, and they like to party on all the days of the week. The VIP service available at this club is top-notch, and you should visit this club if you can spend a lot.

LGBTQIA bar and clubs in Moscow

Although none of the bars can discriminate against the LGBTQIA community, there are a few unique hangout spots for the community. You can meet new people as well as enjoy yourself with your old buddies at:

The Boyz club is a popular LGBTQIA nightclub in Moscow. Mostly the youth of the city visit this highly energetic joint. The place is extremely spacious. It has around three bars, one lounge bar, and two dance floors. If you do not enjoy dancing, you can start using karaoke equipment instead. The parties at this place are to die for. Boyz Club stays open till 10 am on weekends. The parties that are hosted at this place are wild. You can find several music events as well as drag shows at Boyz Club regularly. 

It is probably the most famous and oldest LGBTQIA bar in Moscow. Propaganda opened its doors for its customers back in the year 1997. It functions as a café in the morning where you can get the best cuisines in town. But at night, the whole look of this place changes. The LGBTQIA night events are hosted mostly on Saturdays. It is a place where everyone feels accepted. The staff is extremely friendly and quick with orders. 

If you want to witness cabaret shows, this place should be on your itinerary.  The energy of this club is infectious. Despite the decors being changed almost every year, the bar has held onto its authenticity. The warm and comfortable atmosphere can make anyone feel at home. The travesty shows are held on every Friday and Saturday. These shows begin at 1.30 am and go on all night long. 

• Central Station

Central Station is another decent LGBTQIA club in the city. There are about two dance floors with very different kinds of vibes. You can call your entire gang to their karaoke club and have a gala time. During the summer, you can hang around on the terrace. Drag shows are a regular event at Central Station. The prices are reasonable, and the staff is extremely efficient at this place. 

Located in Pokrovsky Boulevard, Mono Bar is a famous hangout spot for people from the LGBTQIA community. The club was started in 2014 and, since then, has gained a lot of regular customers. Mostly you will be able to hear European as well as Russian music at this club. There is a balcony which is the smoking area. If you want to meet more people, it is ideal for visiting this place after midnight on Fridays and Saturdays. 

After-party clubs in Moscow

The Russians like to party hard, and hence, the party goes on till dawn. After the party ends around 1-3 am in certain clubs, you can head over to a couple of after-party venues to have fun. Here are some of the best ones in Moscow:

People who party at high-end clubs tend to visit Miks for the after-party. There is plenty of alcohol for you to get wasted. The DJs at this joint mostly like to play Tech and House. Do not worry about the price, as the cover charge is minimal at Miks. The place is dimly lit and is the perfect place to end the night.

Gazgolder offers a more Berlin like after-party atmosphere to its guests. The cover charge is a bit more than the other clubs, but it is worth it. The décor of this place is trendy and creative. The place is huge, and you can sit in the outdoor area during the summer months. On some days, the after-party might continue till the next afternoon. All in all, if you want to party like an animal, this is the place you should visit. 

Voda is an ultra-hip joint where you can head over for the after-party. It is a small yet vibrant place where you can get good cocktails. The décor of this club is incredibly quirky. You have to ring the doorbell to get inside the club. The walls are made up of exposed concrete. The main venue downstairs is properly lit. Lime-stone staircase, wooden beams, and bar stools give the place a vintage vibe. The DJs mostly play Electronic music at this pub. One of the most exciting features of this club is that there are no menus. It would be best to inform the bartender what you want to drink, and he will serve it to you. Do not worry, as all the mixologists can converse in English. 

This after-party venue makes you feel like you have been transported to Berlin. The interiors of this place have an industrial feel to them. During the day, this acts as a bike repair shop. But at night, you can party at Entuziast till late at night. Mostly the hipsters tend to party at this place. The bar is made up of metal, and you can see racing flags all over the place. You can get a wide array of choices when it comes to beers and cider. Craft beer is extremely popular at this joint.  During the summers, you can sit outside on the beach chairs arranged on the deck. The snacks are light and ideal for eating with a pint of beer. 

There are so many different things to do in Moscow during the night. Whether you want to grab a couple of drinks or dance into the night with your friends – you will find a spot for yourself in this city. It is advisable to try out almost all the places mentioned above when you are visiting Moscow. The Russian party life is different from any other culture. They believe in working hard and partying even harder. They mostly like to party when they are done with their work for the week. If you want to experience that culture, you must prepare yourself to party till the sun comes up. It will be one of the most memorable experiences of your life.

Keep exploring!

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THE 10 BEST Moscow Nightlife Activities

Nightlife in moscow.

• Bars & Clubs
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• Bar, Club & Pub Tours
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• 5.0 of 5 bubbles
• 4.0 of 5 bubbles & up
• 3.0 of 5 bubbles & up
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• 3rd Transport Ring (TTK)
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• Things to do ranked using Tripadvisor data including reviews, ratings, photos, and popularity.

1. Kot Shrodingera

2. Yevgenich Bar

3. MIX Afterparty

4. Timeless Chistye Prudy

5. Academ Jazz Club

6. Ruki VVerkh! Bar

7. Gestalt Club

8. Ruki VVerkh! Bar

9. Timeless Okhotny Ryad

10. Timeless Mayakovskaya

11. Punk Fiction Skate Bar

12. 69 Pints Craft Bar

13. Timeless New Arbat

14. VLounge football bar

15. Detalka Anticafe

16. Dom Musye Lyo Kalyana

17. Time Club Gnezdo

18. Coyote Ugly Bar

19. Kotofeinya

20. Hookah Lounge LikeShisha

21. Steal the Show Comedy

22. Einstein Lounge

23. Central Station

24. Wow Moscow Lounge

25. Hookah Bar Friends

26. Timeless Yakimanka

27. ICON CLUB

28. Igor Butman Jazz Club

30. Bike Center Sexton

What travelers are saying

• Mos&Co Tours
• Maximum Moscow
• Julia Politova
• Opatrip.com Russia
• Kot Shrodingera
• Timeless Chistye Prudy
• Ruki VVerkh! Bar
• VLounge football bar
• Timeless Mayakovskaya
• Moscow City Lights
• Detalka Anticafe
• Tsaritsynskiye Baths
• 69 Pints Craft Bar
• Einstein Lounge

Moscow City Golf Club

It is centrally located, just off Kutuzovsky Prospect, within 5 minutes drive from the Victory Park and the Triumphal Arch. Right in the center, yet green and picturesque with lakes and 15 Century Church next to it. Moscow City Golf Club was the first one to open in Russia on September 15, 1987 at the urban wasteland on the street Dovzhenko held long-awaited 'ground breaking' - famous sportsmen Pele, Mike Tyson, Sven Tumba and Alexander Ragulin made symbolic throws with the golf clubs. This day is considered to be the day of foundation of Moscow City Golf Club. The founder of the club is Sven (Tumba) Johansson ex World Champion hockey player. Thousands of golf fans gather here every season.

Throughout its history, Moscow City Golf Club tries to maintain and develop friendly relations with the golf clubs around the world, organizing the exchange of delegations, inter-club tournaments, social events, thereby making the life of the club members more interesting. Moscow City Golf Club has signed a cooperation agreement with American Golf Club 'Deep Cliff Golf Course', Finnish 'Aura Golf', French 'Cannes Mandle' and Cyprus' Aphrodite Hills Golf '.

Each year Moscow City Golf Club holds a lot of different tournaments and activities like: children's charity tournaments and much more attracting numerous visitors.

June 26, 2004 the Club House was open again after restoration. The opening ceremony was attended by the founder of the Moscow City Golf Club Sven Tumba Johansson and officials, senior officials from the Moscow Government.

As a result, the restoration Club House was transformed into a wonderful place for relaxition and organizing events. It has spacious and luxuriously furnished rooms available for the members of the Moscow City Golf Club: restaurant, golf bar, library, cigar and billiard room, conference room, office «Old Tom», Beauty Salon & SPA, gym, showers, saunas and relaxation rooms with personal lockers. Interior of the Club House was completed in classic English style by the famous designer from Hong Kong Garvin Chen (architect Garvin Chen).

Moscow City Golf Club has a nine holes field. Six of the nine holes are par-4 and three holes are par-3. The total playing distance is 2.343 metres. Detailed description of each hole you can find on the site of the Moscow City Golf Club with the plan.

Moscow City Golf Club is a wonderfull place with impecable service, the members can gain privileges in foregn golf clubs including in the International Association of the Clubs.

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Billionaire fights to dock his boat on water behind his house. His 164-foot boat, that is.

The love of the water, and a mega-yacht to enjoy it, is putting one resident at odds with village of north palm beach leaders..

For some people, the ultimate Florida lifestyle is a waterfront house , a private dock and a boat parked next to it. But what if that boat is a mega-yacht , and the mega-yacht stretches 164 feet?

That's the conundrum facing the Village of North Palm Beach.

This tiny community in northern Palm Beach County, with only 13,000 full-time residents, has an identity so tied to the water that a ship's steering wheel is the village's emblem.

But it's that love of the water that is putting one resident at odds with village leaders.

For the past several years, homeowner Michael Bozutto has been battling the village for the right to park his 164-foot Westport, dubbed Honey, behind a home he owns at 932 Shore Drive.

The house, built in 1961, is a one-story, ranch-style property with three bedrooms on a half-acre lot. Bozzuto paid $840,247 for the house in 2014, according to Palm Beach County property records.

Lawsuit rooted in dispute over where to dock mega-yacht

What makes this plain house special is its location. It's on a rare corner bordered on the north and east by navigable waters that provide access to the Atlantic Ocean via the Lake Worth Inlet. The east-facing dock is large enough to accommodate Bozzuto's motor yacht.

Since Bozutto bought Honey for an undisclosed sum a decade ago, he mostly has parked it at the Old Port Cove Marina, near Tiger Woods' 155-foot showy mega-yacht, ironically dubbed Privacy.

More recently, Bozzuto has wanted to park Honey alongside his Shore Drive house, one of four houses he owns in the village. While Bozzuto keeps some personal property at the Shore Drive house, he lives at a house he owns at Harbour Isles Court.

Village officials warned Bozzuto he can't park Honey at 932 Shore Drive because boats can only be parked on docks behind houses that are occupied by the homeowner.

But village rules do not define the word "occupied." For instance, the rules do not state that occupied means the house is a residence where the owner lives. Village rules also contain no restrictions on the size of boats that can be kept at private docks.

After years of pushing back against what he believes are fuzzy rules, Bozzuto in March filed a lawsuit against the village.

More: Cannonsport Marina sells for $58.5 million in big deal for tiny Palm Beach Shores

He alleged the municipality is illegally depriving him of his property rights because nothing in the village code prevents him from mooring Honey at his house. He is asking a Palm Beach County Circuit Court judge to rule that he has a constitutional right to dock Honey there.

Gregory Coleman, Bozzuto's West Palm Beach attorney, said the village has plenty of waterfront homes with yachts parked behind them. But Coleman said the village is illegally blocking Bozzuto from docking Honey at his house because the village is bending to pressure from a handful of neighbors who think the boat is too big.

The selective enforcement is wrong, said Coleman, a former president of the Florida Bar.

"He's a very under-the-radar guy who doesn't cause anybody any problems," Coleman said of Bozzuto. "He pays his property taxes, and he wants to be left alone by the village of North Palm Beach. Unfortunately, they are singling Mike out."

Neither Leonard Rubin, the village's longtime attorney, nor Village Manager Chuck Huff responded to requests for comment.

Eric Stettin, a Fort Lauderdale-based attorney who is representing the village in the Bozzuto lawsuit, said he could not comment on pending litigation.

What good is a man's castle if he can't have a boat in his moat?

Coleman's lawsuit describes the conflict as a battle over property rights, but real estate and yachting experts say it's also a sign of the times.

As wealthy new residents pour into the county wanting all the perks of the Sunshine State, they want a boat to go along with their waterfront homes and golf club memberships. Some longtime residents fear Palm Beach County is turning into a playground for billionaires, to the detriment of everyday people who also want to live in sunshine and peace.

This conflict between Old Florida and new money is an ever-present tension, but even seasoned yacht brokers say they've never seen interest in luxury yachts quite as strong as it is now.

More: Illegal boat slips are popping near Palm Beach Gardens. Residents want regulators to act

"What we've seen in the marketplace right after COVID in the yachting industry, and especially the superyacht segment, is the most incredible growth ever seen in the history of yachting to date," said Shannon McCoy, a luxury yacht advisor and broker with Worth Avenue Yachts in Palm Beach.

"A lot of people are moving here with serious money," added Pascal Savoy, U.S. managing director of Camper & Nicholsons International yacht brokers in Fort Lauderdale.

While in the past Palm Beach County was not considered lively enough for some buyers, Savoy said the county's growing sophistication is putting it on the map in a way never seen before.

"It's a mini-Monaco for us," Savoy said.

Prices for mega-yachts can range from $18 million to $60 million, or many times that, for the largest and most decked-out mega-yachts, Savoy said.

While some yachts can be glitzy, a 164-foot Westport is considered a more low-profile boat, Savoy added.

Michael Bozzuto's interests: Houses, boats and philanthropy

Bozzuto is no newcomer to North Palm Beach. He's been a resident of the village for 20 years.

He is the billionaire owner of a family-owned supermarket wholesaler in Connecticut, and an investor and philanthropist who likes to collect houses and yachts, Coleman said.

In addition to the four North Palm Beach houses and several yachts he owns, Bozzuto in February paid a whopping $31.1 million for a house in the Town of Palm Beach Shores. The house, which has two docks, sits just north of the Palm Beach/Lake Worth Inlet.

Twin City Mall: North Palm clears way for redevelopment, taller buildings at landmark site

Coleman said there is plenty of room for other boaters to navigate the waterway when Honey is parked at the Shore Drive house in North Palm Beach. And while other people may not have as large a yacht, there are other sizeable yachts parked on docks behind other North Palm Beach homes, too, he added.

At a 2017 village council meeting, then-Mayor Darryl Aubrey commented on the issue, according to the complaint.

"When I didn't live here full time, I had a boat sitting in my dock, I was gone nine months of the year. I don't see how you can say that someone has to be in a residence year-round, seems to be some interpretation of occupant, there would be an enormous number of violations," Aubrey said.

Another member of the village council asked if the village had a definition now, the complaint said.

Rubin, the village attorney, replied: "No, we don't," according to the lawsuit.

Show me the money? Here it is: West Palm and Palm Beach rank in top 5 as cities with fastest growth in millionaires

Palm Beach County's waterways run deep, and they are popular

The yacht docking dispute is particularly timely, given the scarcity of dock space for boats of all sizes.

The most convenient place to park a boat is on the water behind a house, brokers say. But not every waterway or channel can accommodate the draft, or depth, of a mega-yacht.

However, the dock behind Bozzuto's Shore Drive house can.

Not only is the Westport not known for its deep hulls, but the waterway also is typical of northern Palm Beach County, which boasts deep water and easy access to the ocean via the Lake Worth Inlet, said Coleman, a lifelong boater.

"In Palm Beach County, they have deeper water, and it allows people to have larger yachts," Savoy agreed.

But not every waterway is deep enough for every boat.

McCoy said she specializes in helping advise potential yacht owners about the county's varied water depths before they buy a house, if they plan to dock their yacht behind it.

If yacht owners don't have a private dock, the other option is a marina. But marina space is hard to find, with many dock berths reserved for months in advance, McCoy said.

Despite the challenges of owning a boat and finding a place to dock it, yacht brokers say demand continues.

They see interest continuing from business executives moving here with their families as they relocate their companies to Palm Beach County. There's also a growing demand for yachts among female buyers, McCoy added.

They also see younger mega-yacht buyers, some even in their early 30s. This is in sharp contrast to the mostly older buyers in the past, Savoy said.

Palm Beach County may not be as go-go as Miami-Dade County when it comes to showy ships, but if interest continues, "it's coming," Savoy said. "You're going to attract bigger yachts."

Put another way: "No one needs a boat, but everyone needs a boat," McCoy said. "It's the ultimate lifestyle."

Alexandra Clough is a business writer and columnist at  The Palm Beach Post . You can reach her at  [email protected] . Twitter:  @acloughpbp .  Help support our journalism. Subscribe today.

Three decades after the Soviet era, this Moscow street echoes what was.

And hints where russia is heading., welcome to tverskaya street.

MOSCOW — Thirty years ago, the Soviet Union ceased to be. The flag was lowered for the last time on Dec. 25, 1991. That moment still raises deep questions for the U.S.S.R.’s heirs: “Who were we as Soviets, and where are we going as Russians?”

Many of the answers can be found on Moscow’s main thoroughfare — named Gorky Street, after writer Maxim Gorky, from 1932 to 1990, and renamed Tverskaya Street, a nod to the ancient city of Tver, as the Soviet Union was awash in last-gasp reforms.

It was the Soviet Union’s display window on the bright future that Kremlin-run communism was supposed to bring. It was where the KGB dined, the rich spent their rubles, Vladimir Lenin gave speeches from a balcony, and authorities wielded their power against one of the most famous Soviet dissidents, Alexander Solzhenitsyn.

In the 1990s, Tverskaya embodied the fast-money excesses of the post-Soviet free-for-all. In later years, it was packed with hopeful pro-democracy marchers. And now , under President Vladimir Putin, it is a symbol of his dreams of reviving Russia as a great power, reliving past glories and crushing any opposition to his rule.

Join a tour of Moscow’s famed Tverskaya Street.

Hotel National: Where the Soviet government began

The window in Room 107 at the Hotel National faces Red Square and the Kremlin. It offers a perfect view of Lenin’s tomb — fitting, since he was Room 107’s most famous guest.

The Kremlin was damaged during the Russian Revolution in 1917. So Lenin and his wife moved into Room 107 for seven days in March 1918, making the hotel the first home of the Soviet government.

The Hotel National in Moscow, from top: Artwork in the Socialist Realist style — which artists were ordered to adopt in the 1930s — still adorns the hotel; Elena Pozolotina has worked at the hotel since 1995; the hotel, which contains a restaurant, was built in 1902; the National has hosted notable guests, including Soviet leader Vladimir Lenin, then-Sen. Barack Obama (D-Ill.) and actor Jack Nicholson. (Photos by Arthur Bondar for The Washington Post)

The National, built in 1902 during the era of Imperial Russia, also accommodated other Soviet leaders, including Leon Trotsky and Felix Dzerzhinsky, chief of the secret police. The building continued to be used by the Soviet government as a hostel for official party delegates and was renamed First House of Soviets in 1919.

Guests can now stay in the same room Lenin did for about $1,300 a night. In more recent years, the hotel has hosted notable guests including Barack Obama (when he was a senator) and actor Jack Nicholson.

“This hotel feels a little like a museum,” said Elena Pozolotina, who has worked at the National since 1995.

“We have rooms that look onto Tverskaya Street, and we always explain to guests that this is the main street of our city,” Pozolotina said. “This corner of Tverskaya that we occupy, it’s priceless.”

Stalin’s plan: ‘The building is moving’

When Soviet leader Joseph Stalin demanded a massive redevelopment of Moscow in 1935, an order came to transform modest Gorky Street into a wide, awe-inspiring boulevard.

Engineer Emmanuel Gendel had the job of moving massive buildings to make way for others. Churches and monasteries were blown up, replaced by newspaper offices and a huge cinema.

The Moscow Central Eye Hospital was sheared from its foundation, rotated 97 degrees, jacked up, hitched on rails and pushed back 20 yards — with surgeons operating all the while, or so official media reported at the time.

Gendel’s daughter, then about 8, proudly stood at a microphone, announcing: “Attention, attention, the building is moving.” Tatiana Yastrzhembskaya, Gendel’s granddaughter and president of the Winter Ball charity foundation in Moscow, recalls that Gendel extolled communism but also enjoyed the rewards of the elite. He drove a fine car and always brought the family the best cakes and candies, she said.

The largest Gorky Street building Gendel moved was the Savvinskoye Courtyard. The most difficult was the Mossoviet, or Moscow city hall, with a balcony where Lenin had given speeches. The building, the former residence of the Moscow governor general, had to be moved with its basement. The ground floor had been a ballroom without central structural supports.

Moving buildings on Gorky Street in 1940, from left: A mechanic at a control panel regulates the supply of electricity while a house is being moved; a postal worker passes a moving house; a specialist unwinds a telephone cable during a building move to maintain uninterrupted communication; 13 rail tracks were placed under a house, on which 1,200 metal rollers were laid. (Photos by RGAKFD)

Gendel’s skills were used all over the U.S.S.R. — straightening towers on ancient mosques in Uzbekistan, inventing a means to drag tanks from rivers during World War II and consulting on the Moscow Metro.

Like many of the Soviet Union’s brightest talents, Gendel found that his freedom was tenuous. His ex-wife was called by the KGB internal spy agency in 1937 and asked to denounce him. She refused, and he avoided arrest.

“I believe he was not arrested and sent to the camps because he was a unique expert,” said Yastrzhembskaya. World War II, known in Russia as the Great Patriotic War, interrupted the Master Plan for Gorky Street.

Aragvi restaurant: A haunt of the KGB

In the 1930s, the head of the elite NKVD secret police, Lavrenty Beria, one of the architects of the Stalin-era purges, ordered the construction of a state-owned restaurant, Aragvi, to showcase food from his home republic of Georgia.

One night, NKVD agents descended in several black cars on a humble Georgian canteen in Moscow that Beria had once visited. The agents ordered the chef, Longinoz Stazhadze, to come with them. The feared NKVD was a precursor to the KGB.

Stazhadze thought he was being arrested, his son Levan told Russian media. He was taken to Beria, who said that he had agreed with “the Boss” (Stalin) that Stazhadze would run Aragvi. Stazhadze had grown up a peasant, sent to work in a prince’s kitchens as a boy.

Aragvi opened in 1938. It was only for the gilded set, a reminder that the “Soviet paradise” was anything but equitable. The prices were astronomical. It was impossible to get a table unless the doorman knew you or you could pay a hefty bribe.

Aragvi, at No. 6 Tverskaya, was a favorite of the secret police; government officials; cosmonauts and pilots; stars of theater, movies and ballet; directors; poets; chess masters. Beria reputedly dined in a private room. Poet Sergei Mikhalkov said he composed the lyrics of the Soviet national anthem while sitting in the restaurant in 1943.

It was privatized in the 1990s and struggled, before closing in 2002. It reopened in 2016 after a $20 million renovation. But the new Aragvi closed abruptly in 2019 amid reports of a conflict between its owner and the building managers.

“You put your entire soul into cooking,” said the former head chef, Nugzar Nebieridze, 59, celebrated for his khinkali, a meaty dumpling almost the size of a tennis ball. He was devastated to find himself unemployed. But other doors opened. He now prefers to travel, giving master classes around Russia.

Stalin’s funeral: A deadly street crush that never officially happened

On March 6, 1953, the day after Stalin died of a stroke, an estimated 2 million Muscovites poured onto the streets. They hoped to catch a glimpse of his body, covered with flowers and laid out in the marbled Hall of Columns near Red Square.

Yulia Revazova, then 13, sneaked from her house with her cousin Valery without telling their parents. As they walked toward Pushkin Square, at one end of Gorky Street, the procession turned into a scene of horror. They saw people falling and being trampled. Some were crushed against metal fences. Valery, who was a few years older, grabbed Yulia by the hand and dragged her out of the crowd.

“He held my hand really tight and never let it go, because it was pure madness,” she recalled recently. “It took us four or five hours to get out of there. People kept coming and coming. I couldn’t even call it a column; it was just an uncontrollable mass of people.”

“I still have this feeling, the fear of massive crowds,” added Revazova, 82. “To this day, if I see a huge group of people or a really long line, I just cross the street.”

Neither Revazova nor her cousin knew about Stalin’s repressions.

“People were crying. I saw many women holding little handkerchiefs, wiping away tears and wailing,” she recalled. “That’s the psychology of a Soviet person. If there is no overarching figure above, be it God or Lenin, life will come crashing down. The era was over, and there was fear. What will we do without Stalin?”

Officials never revealed how many people died that day. The Soviet-approved archival footage of the four days of national mourning showed only orderly marches and memorials.

No. 9: The ruthless culture minister

The Soviet culture minister, the steely Yekaterina Furtseva, was nicknamed Catherine the Third, after the forceful Russian Empress Catherine the Great. Furtseva destroyed writers, artists or anyone else who challenged Soviet ideas. She lived at an elite 1949 apartment building for government officials at No. 9 — an ultra-prestigious address with a view of the Kremlin.

Furtseva, a former small-town weaver, made sure that No. 9 was only for the cream of party officials and other notables, such as famous Soviet actress Natalia Seleznyova, scientists, conductors and architects.

Riding the coattails of Soviet leader Nikita Khrushchev, Furtseva was the only woman in the Politburo and later became the Soviet Union’s cultural gatekeeper despite her provincial sensibilities. She once infamously mixed up a symphony with an opera, and critics were quick to notice.

“She had little in common with the artistic leaders of her country except a liking for vodka,” Norwegian painter Victor Sparre wrote in his 1979 book on the repression of dissident Soviet writers, “The Flame in the Darkness.”

Furtseva was famous for previewing performances and declaring anyone even subtly critical of Soviet policies as being anti-state. Director Yuri Lyubimov described one such visit to Moscow’s Taganka Theater in 1969, when she turned up wearing diamond rings and an astrakhan coat. She banned the play “Alive,” depicting a cunning peasant’s struggle against the collective farm system. She “was livid, she kept shouting,” he told L’Alternative magazine in 1984. She stormed out, warning him she would use her influence, “up to the highest levels,” against him.

He was expelled from the party and in 1984 was stripped of his citizenship. She vehemently denounced Solzhenitsyn, and banned the Bolshoi Ballet’s version of “Carmen” in 1967 over prima ballerina Maya Plisetskaya’s sensual performance and “un-Soviet” costumes that did not cover enough leg.

“The ballet is all erotica,” she told the dancer. “It’s alien to us.” But Plisetskaya, whom Khrushchev once called the world’s best dancer, fought back. The ballet went on with some excisions (the costumes stayed) and became a legend in the theater’s repertoire.

Furtseva was nearly felled by scandal in 1974, ordered to repay $80,000 spent building a luxurious dacha, or country home, using state labor. She died months later.

Where Solzhenitsyn was arrested

The Nobel Prize-winning Solzhenitsyn exposed the Soviet system’s cruelty against some of its brightest minds, trapped in the gulag, or prison camps.

Solzhenitsyn was given eight years of hard labor in 1945 for privately criticizing Stalin, then three years of exile in Kazakhstan, a Soviet republic at the time. His books were banned. After release from exile in 1956, he was allowed to make only 72-hour visits to the home of his second wife, Natalia, at 12 Gorky St., Apt. 169. Solzhenitsyn had to live outside the city.

“People knew that there were camps, but not many people, if any, knew what life was like in those camps. And he described it from the inside. He had been there himself, and that was shocking to a lot of people,” said Natalia Solzhenitsyna during a recent interview at the apartment, which became a museum in 2018.

“Many people say that he did make a contribution to the final fall of the Soviet Union.”

Solzhenitsyn, who died in 2008, called Russia “the land of smothered opportunities.” He wrote that it is always possible to live with integrity. Lies and evil might flourish — “but not through me.”

The museum displays tiny handwritten copies of Solzhenitsyn’s books, circulated secretly; film negatives of letters smuggled to the West; and beads made of compacted bread that he used to memorize poems in prison.

“He spent a lot of time here with his children. We were always very busy. And we just enjoyed ourselves — being together,” Solzhenitsyna said. They had three sons.

No. 12 Gorky St., from top: Natalia Solzhenitsyna lived in the apartment for years, and her husband, Soviet dissident Alexander Solzhenitsyn, was allowed only short visits; the site now houses a museum displaying items connected to him, such as negatives containing a copy of a novel he wrote; another exhibit includes Solzhenitsyn’s clothes from when he was sent to the gulag and beads made of compacted bread that he used to memorize poems; the Nobel Prize-winning writer’s desk is featured at the museum. (Photos by Arthur Bondar for The Washington Post)

Because of KGB bugs, if the couple were discussing something sensitive, they wrote notes to each other, and then destroyed them. Two KGB agents usually roosted in the stairwell on the floor above, with two more on the floor below.

“The Soviet authorities were afraid of him because of his popularity among intellectuals, writers, people of culture and the intelligentsia.”

Her favorite room is decked with black-and-white photos of dissidents sent to the gulag, the Soviet Union’s sprawling system of forced labor camps. “It’s dedicated to the invisibles,” she said, pointing out friends.

Sweden planned to award Solzhenitsyn’s 1970 literature prize in the Gorky Street apartment, but the writer rejected a secret ceremony. A Swedish journalist in Moscow, Stig Fredrikson, was Solzhenitsyn’s smuggler. He carried Solzhenitsyn’s Nobel lecture on tightly rolled film disguised as a battery in a transistor radio, and he took other letters to the West and transported photos taped to his back.

“I felt that there was a sense of unfairness that he was so isolated and so persecuted,” Fredrikson said in a recent interview. “I got more and more scared and more and more afraid every time I met him.”

In 1971, the Soviet Union allegedly tried to poison Solzhenitsyn using a secret nerve agent, leaving him seriously ill. Early 1974 was tense. The prosecutor subpoenaed him. State newspapers railed against him.

The morning of Feb. 12, 1974, the couple worked in their study. In the afternoon, he walked his 5-month-old son, Stepan, in the yard below.

“He came back here, and literally a minute later, there was a ring at the door. There were eight men. They immediately broke the chain and got in,” his widow said. “There was a prosecutor in his prosecutor’s uniform, two men in plainclothes, and the rest were in military uniform. They told him to get dressed.”

“We hugged and we kept hugging for quite a while,” she recalled. “The last thing he told me was to take care of the children.”

He was deported to West Germany. The couple later settled in Vermont and set up a fund to help dissident writers, using royalties from his book “The Gulag Archipelago.” About 1,000 people still receive money from the fund, according to Solzhenitsyna.

When the writer and his wife returned to Russia in 1994, they traveled across the country by train. Thousands of people crushed into halls to hear him speak.

Solzhenitsyn abhorred the shock therapy and unchecked capitalism of the 1990s and preferred Putin’s tough nationalism. He died of heart failure at 89 in August 2008, five months after a presidential election in which Putin switched places with the prime minister, Dmitry Medvedev, in a move that critics saw as a ploy to get around constitutional term limits.

No. 6: ‘Feasts of thought’

Behind a grand Stalin-era apartment block at 6 Gorky St. sits an ornate 1907 building famous for its facade, art nouveau glazed blue tiles, elegant arches and baroque spires. Once a monastery dormitory, it was a staple of pre-Soviet postcards from Moscow. But in November 1939, the 26,000-ton building was put on rails and pushed back to widen the street.

Linguists Lev and Raisa Kopelev lived in Apt. 201 on the top floor. Their spacious dining room became a favored haven for Moscow’s intelligentsia from the 1950s to the 1980s.

“People gathered all the time — to talk. In this apartment, like many other kitchens and dining rooms, at tables filled more often than not with vodka, herring and vinaigrette salad, feasts of thought took place,” said Svetlana Ivanova, Raisa’s daughter from another marriage, who lived in the apartment for nearly four decades.

Solzhenitsyn and fellow dissident Joseph Brodsky were Kopelev family friends, as were many other artists, poets, writers and scientists who formed the backbone of the Soviet human rights movement of the 1960s.

As a writer and dissident, Kopelev had turned his back on the Communist Party and a prestigious university position. The onetime gulag prisoner inspired the character Lev Rubin in Solzhenitsyn’s novel “In the First Circle,” depicting the fate of arrested scientists.

“The apartment was a special place for everyone. People there were not afraid to speak their mind on topics that would be considered otherwise risky,” Ivanova said. “A new, different spirit ruled in its walls.”

Eliseevsky: Pineapples during a famine

The Eliseevsky store at No. 16 was a landmark for 120 years — born in czarist Russia, a witness to the rise and fall of the Soviet Union, a survivor of wars, and a bastion during eras of shortages and plenty. It closed its doors in April.

Eliseevsky fell on hard times during the coronavirus pandemic, as international tourists dwindled and Russians sought cheaper grocery-shopping alternatives.

In the palace-like interior, two chandeliers hang from an ornate ceiling. Gilt columns line the walls. The front of the store, looking out at Tverskaya Street, has a row of stained glass.

The Eliseevsky store, which opened in 1901, is seen in April, with a few customers and some archival photos, as it prepared to close as an economic victim of the coronavirus pandemic. (Photos by Arthur Bondar for The Washington Post)

Denis Romodin, a historian at the Museum of Moscow, said Eliseevsky is one of only two retail spaces in Moscow with such pre-revolutionary interiors. But Eliseevsky’s level of preservation made it “one of a kind,” he said.

The building was once owned by Zinaida Volkonskaya, a princess and Russian cultural figure in the 19th century. She remodeled the house into a literary salon whose luminaries included Russia’s greatest poet, Alexander Pushkin.

St. Petersburg merchant Grigory Eliseev opened the market in 1901. It quickly became a hit among Russian nobility for its selection of European wines and cheeses.

Romodin said it was Russia’s first store with price tags. Before Eliseevsky, haggling was the norm. And it was also unique in having innovative technology for the time: electric-powered refrigerators and display cases that allowed goods to be stored longer.

Even in the Soviet Union’s hungriest years, the 1930s famine, Eliseevsky stocked pineapples.

“One could find outlandish delicacies here, which at that time seemed very exotic,” Romodin said. “It was already impossible to surprise Muscovites with wine shops. But a grocery store with luxurious interiors, and large for that time, amazed and delighted Muscovites.”

The First Gallery: A glimpse of openness

In 1989, in a dusty government office by a corner of Pushkin Square, three young artists threw off decades of suffocating state control and opened the Soviet Union’s first independent art gallery.

That April, Yevgeny Mitta and two fellow students, Aidan Salakhova and Alexander Yakut, opened First Gallery. At the time, the Soviet Union was opening up under policies including glasnost, which gave more room for public debate and criticism.

Artists were ordered to adopt the Socialist Realist style in 1934, depicting scenes such as happy collective farmworkers. Expressionist, abstract and avant-garde art was banned. From the 1970s, underground art exhibitions were the only outlets to break the Soviet-imposed rules.

The First Gallery, from top: Yevgeny Mitta, Aidan Salakhova and Alexander Yakut opened the Soviet Union’s first independent art gallery in 1989 and received media attention; Mitta works on a painting that he displayed at his gallery; Mitta recalled recently that he “felt we had to make something new”; an undated photo of Mitta at his gallery in Soviet times. (Photos by Arthur Bondar for The Washington Post and courtesy of Yevgeny Mitta)

“I just felt we had to make something new,” recalled Mitta, 58, who kept his interest in contemporary expressionism a secret at a top Moscow art school in the 1980s.

“It was like nothing really happened in art history in the 20th century, like it stopped,” he said. “The Socialist Realism doctrine was invented and spread to the artists as the only one, possible way of developing paintings, films and literature.”

After the collapse of the Soviet Union, artists had to “learn how to survive, what to do, how to work and make a living,” he said.

McDonald’s: ‘We were not used to smiling’

In the Soviet Union’s final years, a mania raged for all things Western. Estée Lauder opened the first Western-brand shop on Gorky Street in 1989, after meeting Raisa Gorbachev, the wife of reformist Soviet leader Mikhail Gorbachev, in December 1988.

The Soviet Union’s first McDonald’s, located across Pushkin Square on Gorky Street, opened on Jan. 31, 1990 — a yellow-arched symbol of Gorbachev’s perestroika economic reforms. Pizza Hut opened later that year. (In 1998, Gorbachev starred in a commercial for the pizza chain.)

Karina Pogosova and Anna Patrunina were cashiers at the McDonald’s on opening day. The line stretched several blocks. Police officers stood watch to keep it organized.

The Soviet Union’s first McDonald’s opened in 1990 and eager customers lined up to enter; Karina Pogosova, left, and Anna Patrunina were cashiers at the fast-food restaurant on Gorky Street then, and they are senior executives with the company today. (Photos by Peter Turnley/Corbis/VCG/Getty Images and Arthur Bondar for The Washington Post)

“The atmosphere was wonderful. The first day I had to smile the entire day and my face muscles hurt,” Patrunina said. “This is not a joke. Russians do not smile in general, so we were not used to smiling at all, not to mention for more than eight hours straight.”

Pogosova and Patrunina were students at the Moscow Aviation Institute when they learned McDonald’s was hiring through an ad in a Moscow newspaper. Interview questions included: “How fast can you run 100 meters?” It was to gauge if someone was energetic enough for the job.

Pogosova and Patrunina are still with the company today, as senior vice president of development and franchising and vice president of operations, respectively.

“I thought that this is the world of opportunities and this new world is coming to our country, so I must be in this new world,” Patrunina said.

The smiling staff wasn’t the only culture shock for customers. Some had never tried the fountain sodas that were available. They were unaccustomed to food that wasn’t eaten with utensils. The colorful paper boxes that Big Macs came in were occasionally saved as souvenirs.

McDonald’s quickly became a landmark on the street.

“I remember very well that the street and the entire city was very dark and McDonald’s was like an island of light with bright signage,” Pogosova said. “The street started to change after McDonald’s opened its first restaurant there.”

Wild ’90s and a missing ballerina

The end of the Soviet Union uncorked Moscow’s wild 1990s. Some people made instant fortunes by acquiring state-owned enterprises at throwaway prices. Rules were being written on the fly. The city was pulsing with possibilities for those with money or those desperate to get some.

“It was easy to get drunk on this,” said Alex Shifrin, a former Saatchi & Saatchi advertising executive from Canada who lived in Moscow from the mid-1990s until the late 2000s.

It all was on full display at Night Flight, Moscow’s first nightclub, opened by Swedish managers in 1991, in the final months of the Soviet Union, at Tverskaya 17. The club introduced Moscow’s nouveau elite to “face control” — who merits getting past the rope line — and music-throbbing decadence.

The phrase “standing on Tverskaya” made its way into Russian vernacular as the street became a hot spot for prostitutes. Toward the end of the 2000s, Night Flight had lost its luster. The club scene in Moscow had moved on to bigger and bolder venues.

Decades before, No. 17 had been famous as the building with the dancer: a statue of a ballerina, holding a hammer and sickle, placed atop the cupola during Stalin’s building blitz.

Muscovites nicknamed the building the House Under the Skirt.

“The idea was to have Gorky Street as a museum of Soviet art. The statues represented a dance of socialism,” art historian Pavel Gnilorybov said. “The ballerina was a symbol of the freedom of women and the idea that, before the revolution, women were slaves. It is as if she is singing an ode to the regime.”

The crumbling statues were removed by 1958. People forgot them. Now a group of Muscovites, including Gnilorybov, are campaigning for the return of the ballerina.

“It’s an idea that we want to give the city as a gift. It’s not political,” he said. “It’s beautiful.”

Pushkin Square: For lovers and protesters

Pushkin Square has been Moscow’s favorite meeting place for friends, lovers and political demonstrations.

In November 1927, Trotskyist opponents of Stalin marched to the 27th House of Soviets at one end of Tverskaya Street, opposite the Hotel National, in one of the last public protests against the Soviet ruler.

In December 1965, several dozen dissidents gathered in Pushkin Square to protest the trials of two writers. It became an annual event. People would gather just before 6 p.m. and, on the hour, remove their hats for a minute.

In 1987, dissidents collected signatures at Pushkin Square and other locations calling for a memorial to those imprisoned or killed by the Soviet state. The movement evolved into Memorial, a leading human rights group. Memorial was declared a “foreign agent” in 2016 under Putin’s sweeping political crackdowns.

In January 2018, left, and January 2021, right, protesters gathered at Pushkin Square. (Photos by Arthur Bondar for The Washington Post)

Protests in support of opposition leader Alexei Navalny were held at Pushkin Square earlier this year. And it is where communists and liberals rallied on a rainy September night to protest 2021 parliamentary election results that gave a landslide win to Putin’s United Russia party despite widespread claims of fraud.

Nearly 30 years after the fall of the U.S.S.R., Putin’s Russia carries some echoes of the stories lived out in Soviet times — censorship and repressions are returning. Navalny was poisoned by a nerve agent in 2020 and later jailed. Many opposition figures and independent journalists have fled the country. The hope, sleaze and exhilaration of the 1990s have faded. Tverskaya Street has settled into calm stagnation, waiting for the next chapter.

Arthur Bondar contributed to this report.

Correction: A map accompanying this article incorrectly spelled the first name of a former Soviet leader. He is Vladimir Lenin, not Vladmir Lenin. The map has been corrected.

About this story

Story editing by Robyn Dixon and Brian Murphy. Photos and videos by Arthur Bondar. Archival footage from the Russian State Documentary Film and Photo Archive at Krasnogorsk; footage of Joseph Stalin’s funeral from the Martin Manhoff Archive, courtesy of Douglas Smith. Photo editing by Chloe Coleman. Video editing by Jason Aldag. Design and development by Yutao Chen. Design editing by Suzette Moyer. Maps by Dylan Moriarty. Graphics editing by Lauren Tierney. Copy editing by Melissa Ngo.