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Building a J Class Model

By john hanks iii.

Now you may be wondering what is involved in building a model of a J Class yacht. I will give you an idea of what is involved in getting your J model in the water.

To begin with, let me say that you will need to do some scratch building to get your J model completed, regardless which yacht you choose to model. The scratch building will involve the deck, the rig, and probably the hardware associated with the mast, boom and rigging. With that said, you will need to decide which yacht you would like to model. In the full size J Yachts there was a definite advantage associated with which hull was in the water, but with the models, it appears that any of the J designs will make a good fast sailing model, if it is built correctly. So your decision should be driven by your personal preference for a particular boat. Once you decide which yacht you would like to model you will need to either buy a fiberglass hull or get the drawings for your chosen hull. There are hull line drawings available in the proper scale for all of the J's as well as some deck plans. You can get line drawings from several of the maritime museums, such as the Mystic Seaport Museum.

The amount of time that you will spend on building your model will vary with your building ability, whether you start with a fiberglass hull and how much detail you want to put on your model. Should you decide to scratch build the entire model with a lot of detail, you should plan on spending about 500 to 550 hours building your model. If you begin with a fiberglass hull, subtract about 150 hours, if you do not want to detail your model, deduct about another 100 hours. The cost of materials will be about $800 to $900 if you decide to completely scratch build your model.

I will begin the actual building process with a plank-on-frame hull. You can skip these steps if you start with a fiberglass hull. The process for completing the remainder of the model will be the same from that point on.

To begin the building process, you will need to get your drawings ready by extending each frame to a “waterline” that is above the deck line on the drawing. This new “waterline” will be the part of the frame that rests on the building board. The new “waterline” gives you a flat plane so that all of the frames are referenced to the building board surface, while allowing the arc of the sheer at the deck line to maintain its shape. Your modified drawing should show the hull shape, the shape of the deck beams, and the building board surface.

You will begin the building process by building a building board. The easiest way that I have found to do this is to buy an 8 foot long 4”x6” and mount it at a convenient building height on 2”x4” legs. You will need to make sure that the 4”x6” plank is straight and true and that it will stay that way through out the building process, as this will determine the trueness of your model.

Mark a centerline on your building board and then mark all of the station locations on the centerline. You will then need to draw a line perpendicular to the centerline at each of the station locations. You will next attach small blocks (approximately 1-1/2 x 1-1/2 x ¾ inch) to the building board on the centerline and aligned with the perpendicular station lines. The blocks need to be placed so that the frames that will be glued to these blocks will be centered on the perpendiculars.

The next step will be to cut out the frames that will form the hull. For this step you will need to keep in mind the difference between the line drawings for a metal hull versus a wooden hull. The drawings for a metal hull show the frames to the outside of the plating and for a wooden hull, they are to the outside of the framing, not the hull planking. This will make a difference in your model, as all of the Js were metal boats, and if you draw your frames to the lines, your model will be oversized by the thickness of your planking.

I use 1/8 inch Luan plywood for the frames. The plywood comes in a 4’x8’ sheet and I can get all 28 to 30 frames from one sheet of plywood. The frame patterns are cut from your drawing, and each frame pattern is traced on the wood. With careful placement you should have no trouble getting all of the frames traced onto the plywood. You will need to draw the cutouts for the keel, inwales and king plank in the frame tracings. The centers of the framed are also cut out so that you end up with a ring of wood that is about ¾ inch from the outside to the inside of the frame.

When I cut my frames I do not try to cut on the line that I have drawn; I am not that good with the saw. I leave a little wood, about a 1/16 inch next to the line and sand the frame to the final shape. I find that this makes it much easier to control the accuracy of the frame shape. Once all of the frames are cut and notched for the keel and inwales, they are glued to the blocks on the building board. At this point you should be able to sight down the frames and get a good idea of the shape of your hull.

With the frames glued in place, you are now ready to install the keel and the inwales. I like to use ¼ inch birch plywood for the keel and 1/4x1/4 inch square for the inwales. The inwales can be cut from the same material that you will use for the planking. The hull framing is very limber at this point but it becomes very ridged once the keel and inwales are in place.

The hull is now ready for planking. I have used pine, bass, aspen, spruce and alder for planking. All work well. The availability and price of the material is what determines which material I use. When I built my first J some 30 years ago, clear pine in 8 foot lengths was plentiful and inexpensive. Since then, it has become hard to find and very expensive. As a result I have used other woods that were available, hence the bass, aspen, spruce and alder. The planking material is cut into strips that are about 5/32 inch thick and 3/8 inch wide. This is a nice working size, as the planks are limber enough to form to the hull without the need for spiling (tapering), wetting, or steaming them. You will start the planking at the first frame and end at the last. The 2 to 3 inches of hull that remain at the ends will be filled with solid wood blocks shaped to the dimensions of the hull. Begin planking your hull at the sheer and work to the keel. Each side of the hull will require about 50 to 60 planks. Remember that you will need to alternate sides of the hull as you plank so that you keep the stresses equal on both sides of the hull, thus preventing distortion in the hull.

You will need to change direction of the planking when you get to the bilge area of the hull. The planking will take on an increased twist towards the stern that will prevent the planks from laying fair. The planks will tell you when you have reached this point, usually about 15 to 20 planks up on the hull. To overcome this you will need to lay a plank in a straight line along the hull so that it lays flat between the areas where the existing planking meets the keel. This will leave a lens shaped gap of about 4 or 5 inches between this plank and the existing planking at the middle of the hull. Fill this area by planking from the new plank that you laid down to the existing planking. Once you have completed that step, then continue to plank the rest of the hull. When you have finished your planking, you are ready to attach the bow and stern blocks, shape them, and sand the entire hull to get it ready for fiber glassing.

I like to build the rudder next and fit it to the hull. I build the rudder as I would build an airplane control surface, with a leading edge spar, three ribs, and a trailing edge. The framework is then covered with 1/32 inch plywood. The square tube that accepts the 5/32 inch brass rod rudder shaft is installed in the leading edge as well as the pivot pin at the bottom of the rudder. The hull is drilled and the rudder log is installed and the rudder is fitted in place. Once the rudder is fitted and works well, the hull is fiber glassed using a single layer of 6 ounce cloth and three to four coats of resin. Each coat of resin is sanded before the next coat is applied. When the sanding is complete you will have a smooth and fair hull that will look great when it is painted. The hull is now ready to be removed form the building board. At this time, you should also have a stand built and ready to accept the hull.

Once the hull is off of the building board, it is time to seal the inside with epoxy and install the mechanical workings in the hull as well as install any reinforcements that are needed, such as at the chain plates, mast step, and sheet exits. From this point on, the building process is the same for the fiberglass hulls once you have the deck beams in place. This is also the time to lay out the hatch openings. When laying out the hatch openings you want to keep them as small as possible and still be able to do any work inside the hull that is necessary. Nothing is more frustrating than to find out that you cannot reach some part of your equipment once the deck is in place, so be sure that you can work on and remove and replace all of the fittings, winches, ballast, etc., through the hatch(s) that you have framed in your deck.

Building the deck is the next big step in getting your J ready to sail. There are several different ways to build your deck, and your decision on how much scale detail you want on your model will drive part of that process. If you want a slick deck with no scale detail, then a simple plywood deck will do. The 1/8 inch plywood will be more than adequate for the job and can be finished so that you have a very good looking wooden deck on your model.

Another option is to build a plank deck that represents the deck on the full size yacht. If this is your preference, then you begin by cutting the deck planking to the same dimensions as the hull planking. I cut my planks to a length of 15 inches so that I have scale 20 foot planks. To simulate the deck caulking, I use black construction paper glued between the planks. Once you have the planking cut, you will need to lay the king plank down the center of the deck and the water way planks down each side of the hull. All of the Js had the planking run parallel to the edge of the hull, so you will need to begin laying your deck from the edge of the hull, and work to the center. The paper between the planks helps the glue, thin CA, flow and form a good bond at the seam. From this point on you just continue your planking until the deck is completely covered. As you build your deck you will need to cut your planking at the hatches so you will have access to the inside of the hull when you have finished your planking.

When the deck planking is complete, you will sand the whole deck and get it ready for finishing. At this point, you should have a great looking model.

Again your decision on the amount of detail that you want on your model will determine your next step. If you opt for a scale appearance, by this time you will need to make the cabins, deckhouses, winches, cleats, and anything else that goes on the deck.

The hull is now ready for finishing. I use non-water-based, clear gloss, polyurethane on the deck, cabins, and spars and automotive acrylic enamel for the color on the hull. These make very nice durable finishes which should last many years on your model. I chose to use polyurethane because it does not yellow like varnish does as it ages. This is a personal choice driven by how you would like your deck to look as it ages.

At this point you will have to ballast your model. I have found that the easiest time to do this is after the model is painted and has the scale waterline in place. Place your model in a swimming pool or other suitable tank, and place the lead in the hull until the hull sits on the waterline that is painted on the hull. You will need about 60+ pounds of lead in a manageable form, about 5 pound pigs, for this exercise. Once the lead has been placed in the hull and the proper trim established, you will need to note where the lead is in the hull and the amount at each location. You can then remove the lead from the hull and using your notes, make molds for the ballast so that it fits into the hull cavities.

The next step is building your rig. The masts for the J models will be anywhere from 8 to 91/2 feet tall, depending on which boat you are building and how you lay out the sail plan. For support, the mast will need at least two sets of spreaders with accompanying side stays, and a diamond stay. I have used both aluminum and wood to make J masts. The last mast that I built was made from spruce and was 109 inches tall, with a tear drop cross section that measured about 1-1/4 x ¾ inches. The mast was tapered in its top 3 feet and had a bolt rope slot cut in it used to attach the main sail to the mast. The mast was made from two pieces of spruce that were glued together on the centerline with the grain in each piece set so that any warps canceled each other out. The result was a stiff spar that weighed about 1-1/2 pounds ready to step on the deck Extruded aluminum masts are also available in lengths up to 10 feet, from Ludwig Manufacturing. These masts have a bolt rope slot molded in them and are both light, about 1 pound for a 10 foot piece, and stiff.

The main boom and jib club were both made from spruce. The jib club was about 33 inches long and 1x1/2 inch in cross section and tapered to 1/2 x1/2 inch at both ends. The main boom was about 45 inches long and was about 1 inch from top to bottom with a scale cross section that resembled an old wine jug. These shapes were made for a model of Rainbow.

The gooseneck attachment was made for a piece of ¼ inch thick aluminum plate and secured in a slot cut into the base of the mast. The gooseneck and boom vang pivot on a single stainless-steel rod, (welding rod) about 3 inches long. The boom can be removed from the mast by simply pulling the pivot pin; then the gooseneck and vang are released. The sail can then be slid down out of the bolt-rope slot and rolled for storage.

This is a quick overview of the building process that is needed to build a model J boat.

Below is a list of most of the materials that were used.

2 – 1”x8”x8’ pine, aspen, bass or other suitable wood that can be cut into 5/32”x3/8” strips for hull and deck planking

1 – 4’x8’x18” plywood used for hull framing, 2 if you are using one for the deck

1 – 1’x4’x1/4” five ply birch plywood for the keel

1 – 1’x2’x1/32” plywood used for the rudder sheeting

1 – 1”x4”x8’ spruce for the mast and booms (optional if you are using an aluminum mast)

4 – ¼”x12”x.030” brass strap used for chain plates, mast, and boom fittings

1 – 1/8”x3’ stainless steel welding rod used for gooseneck pivot and spreader stubs in the mast

1 – 1’x6”x1/4” aluminum plate used for the gooseneck and vang fitting (use only if you are scratch building the fittings

1 – 5/32”x12” brass round tube used for spreader bases

1 – 3/16”x12” brass rod used for the rudder shaft

1 – 7/32”x12” brass round tube used for rudder log

1 – 3/16’x12’ square brass tube used for the rudder shaft socket in the rudder

60+ pounds of lead used for ballast

4 – 8oz bottles of thin CA used for planking the hull and deck as well as general construction

1 – 2oz bottle of medium CA for general construction

32oz of 30 minute or longer set epoxy used to seal the hull interior

1 – 10’x50” 6 oz fiberglass cloth used to cover the outside of the hull

2 – Quart cans of polyester resin with catalyst used with the fiberglass cloth

6 to 8 – 2” disposable brushes used to apply polyester resin

8 – Turnbuckles used for the side stays, boom vang and diamond stay

36 – 1-72x 1” stainless steel machine screws with nuts and washers used for various attachments

90’ – 60 pound test nylon coated stainless steel fishing leader with swages used for the standing rigging

8 – Single blocks used for back stay, winch arm, up haul and rudder control

1 – Spool of 40 to 60 pound test braided Dacron line for the sheets

12 – Bowsies for various rigging adjustments

Reference Information

Reference book: Enterprise to Endeavour by Ian Dear, ISBN 1-57409-091-7

This covers most of what you would need to build your J model. I did not mention the wood or brass that I used to make the scale detail, as most of it was obtained as scrap from a cabinet shop and salvage yard. Some additional things that you will need are a radio (at least 2 channels), a quarter scale servo for the rudder, and a sail winch, either arm or drum with about 3,000 inch ounces of pulling power. You would also need to order your sails from your favorite sail maker.

I hope that this answers most of your questions about what it takes to build a model of a J Class yacht. By the way the process described above applies to scratch building any R/C model sail boat, the only difference is the scale of the project. Good luck with your building project

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	The winch from Sails from Aluminum mast from Wooden booms from Brass fittings from Ballast totals 63.7 lbs, in three separate pieces, all of which will be removable. This boat is for recreational use only. I am trying to replicate the majesty of the "J"s, therefore, the mast is precisely scale length. Though the real ones did not use a jib boom, mine will be attached sort of close to the bow at 8.9% of LOA, unlike some model racing "Js" at around 13%. The sail plan is individual, and mine will carry a full measure, which will limit it to light air. Of the 10 America's Cup racing Js, I chose the 1934 Endeavour because of its quintessential lines. Simply gorgeous. I'm happy to answer any more questions. Ooby
	.



	Ed



	will take you through the process of building a Shamrock V, which later won the J-Class NCR. Its LOA is 89.75 in vs Endeavour's LOA of 97.375. Since these boats are 1:16 scale, you'll see these types of differences through out the ten "J"s. The first step is to decide which J to model. The next decision will be to scratch build from line drawings, or purchase a glass hull. Line Drawings of individual hulls and decks in 1:16 scale are available from Rene Serrao, 650 Ketch Harbour Rd., Portuguese Cove, N.S. B3V1K1 Canada In answer to your question above, if you decide to go the glass hull route, my advice is to call the prospective seller and get comfortable with the info provided. In my case, Bob Sennott was absolutely great to work with and provided hand written illustrations of critical areas and measurements. These boats are scratch built and highly individual. "How" you build one is essentially up to you. John Hanks, current AMYA J-Class Secretary wrote a series of 5 build articles, beginning with the Spring, 2000 AMYA quarterly. I recommend obtaining past issues, volumes 119, 121, 122, 123, 124. He also wrote an article on building a planked deck in volume 149. I hope this helps. I'll do my best to answer any further questions. Ooby
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	, The J-Class Yachts, by Ian Dear. ISBN 0-7136-5176-8 (UK) ISBN 1-57409-091-7 (USA)



	I'm anxious to hear what you learn. Thanks, Ooby

I'm anxious to hear what you learn.

Thanks, Ooby




	.

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Ship plans – yacht endeavour – j class – americas cup – 1:80.

Yacht Endevour J Class Americas Cup Ship Plans by Amati

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The Schooner Endeavour staked a claim on the America?s Cup, winning the first two races. The third regatta was bound to be the most exciting. Fate played an unkind trick to Sir Thomas Sopwith, who failed and thus couldn?t win the America?s Cup. Model Kit includes plank-on-bulkhead construction; laser cutted wooden deck and planking; brass and wooden fittings; photo etched brass details; cloth sails; plans and detailed instructions.

Amati ship model plans are faithful interpretations of the original vessel. Amati ship model plans and instructions are always excellent and easily followed. Amati has integrated computer design and the latest materials to produce high quality ship model plans.

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J Class Yacht Design

Discussion in ' Boat Design ' started by Mattyb , Sep 19, 2017 .

Mattyb Junior Member

Hey guys, new to the form, and new to investigating the possibility of building my own boat. I have for the past few days been trying to find schematics for a J Class sailing Yacht in the 50ft range of size, for single handed sailing. Which leads to my first question, has anyone ever stumbled across such a thing? Preferably a fiberglass build. If not, any suggestions on which hull design program would be best to design a hull of this type that is not going to break the bank? I found some crude layouts of a few of the J class yachts, more or less want to use them for a basic design to build from, and adjust the scale.

gonzo Senior Member

J class boats are much longer than 50 feet. The smaller ones are about 120 feet. If you are worrying about not breaking the bank, this is not a viable project; unless you have a few million in that account.

Is there a particular reason why you couldn't take the overall design of the ship and downsize it? I understand the reason for the length of the J classes that are made now. But in the past they were made in significantly smaller lengths for different race classes.

PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

Welcome to the forum. Down sizing a little (say up to 15%) is safe, but more than this, and you need to reevaluate the design criteria. The J's were the playthings of the society classes and not anything remotely inexpensive. The class was folded because of the costs associated with their construction and operation. So, if you have literally 10's of millions laying around with nothing better to do . . . Now a 50' J class watanabe is possible. Have a look at the "W" class and see if it'll spark the same emotions. If so, I know of a 48' W class for sale, built in 2014 and a mere 1.2 million.

Dolfiman Senior Member

You can have a look at Hoek design and Leonardo yachts, specialised in "J class look" yachts, meaning Jclass overhangs, modern appendages inc. inverted T keel bulb : Hoek Design » Josephine II https://www.hoekdesign.com/yacht/josephine-ii . , a 36´ Leonardo Yachts - eagle36 http://www.leonardoyachts.com/en/eagle36.html Leonardo Yachts - eagle44 http://www.leonardoyachts.com/en/eagle44.html Leonardo Yachts - eagle54 http://www.leonardoyachts.com/en/eagle54.html .... and if you are a wealthy man : Hoek Design » Firefly https://www.hoekdesign.com/yacht/firefly1 , a 115´

dsigned O.R.C. Hunter

Mattyb said: ↑ Hey guys, new to the form, and new to investigating the possibility of building my own boat. I have for the past few days been trying to find schematics for a J Class sailing Yacht in the 50ft range of size, for single handed sailing. Which leads to my first question, has anyone ever stumbled across such a thing? Preferably a fiberglass build. If not, any suggestions on which hull design program would be best to design a hull of this type that is not going to break the bank? I found some crude layouts of a few of the J class yachts, more or less want to use them for a basic design to build from, and adjust the scale. Click to expand...

peter radclyffe Senior Member

heres one of the j classes I designed, it can be reduced in size Stern | Boat Design Net https://www.boatdesign.net/gallery/stern.23487/

CT249 Senior Member

Mattyb said: ↑ Is there a particular reason why you couldn't take the overall design of the ship and downsize it? I understand the reason for the length of the J classes that are made now. But in the past they were made in significantly smaller lengths for different race classes. Click to expand...

CloudDiver Senior Member

MattyB, the J Class yachts inspire many people... myself included. Without question we can agree they are the most beautiful yachts ever built. I would encourage you to look at the Universal Rule and understand the rating (wiki article is a good start; Universal rule - Wikipedia https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_rule ) Some of the more seasoned designers or engineers here will correct me if I'm not using the right words here, but essentially to maximize the potential of the rating rule is why the J class yachts ended up so large and with so much sail area. For my limited ability in actual design but roughly understanding the principles, yes a J class can be scaled down BUT it could a) not look right, or b) not meet the Universal Rule. There were many other yachts built to the Universal Rule and they still have the look of a J. Google Larchmont O Class and you will see an example that is 60 ft LOA, 12 ft Beam and very pretty. If sticking to racing rules does not matter to you, and you are looking for the pleasing lines and emulating sheer beauty of the J class at a more realistic build/up-keep cost then you should look at classic designs in general. Try going to the Sparkman & Stephens blog and look at the design drawings in the 40-60ft range. The lower the design number the older the design... in the low design numbers you will find many beautiful examples of classic yachts will long overhangs fore and aft. Good luck finding what you are looking for! I have been doing the same thing for the last 5 years... no rush, I have learned a ton and it's far better reading than sitting through hours of brain-dead TV.

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Canterbury J Class Model Yacht

Canterbury J Class Model Yacht website

A Brief History of the Canterbury J Class Model Yacht

Sailing at the Christchurch Model Yacht Club [CMYC] in 1996-1997 there was a small classic J Class model yacht named RANGER with a length of 1.2 metres and this was owned by Dave Heanly. This yacht was J1 which was eventually purchased from Dave and is now on display in the CMYC club rooms at Hagley Park.

A group of CMYC members decided the J Class yacht would be ideal for easy fully rigged transport and sailing in weedy conditions at Lake Victoria.

The hull of number J1 was purchased from Model Boats and the sail plan designed by Hugh Hobden. An approach was made to purchase more hulls. Euan Sargison negotiated and another 9 hulls were purchased and sold very quickly.

The J Class Squadron was formed 2 Sep 1997. Two more hulls appeared making the total at this time twelve.

More hulls were in demand and the place that originally sold the hulls advised that the mould had been lost. After investigating it was found that the original hulls supplied had been taken from a Timaru J Class yacht.

It was decided to make a Canterbury mould with adjustments. The hull was deepened by 16mm and the lead reduced by 16mm and the trim weight put inside the hull. The J Class squadron purchased the new mould with a loan from Peter Vincent and the loan was repaid from hull sales. Number J13 was the first hull

To promote the sailing class three trophies were donated by Peter Vincent.

More Canterbury J Class historical information can be found HERE

The basic philosophy was to have an easily sailed and economically built RC yacht’ based on a one design principles to provide good resale value, and with racing dependent more on the skipper rather than designer/builder skill.These objects have been attained and the Class has attracted many first time sailors, mostly from the retired ranks who share the common creed, “it sure beats gardening!”

The boat can be transported easily in the average car or station wagon fully rigged. Many boats have features of the original Canterbury J Class.

The “Wednesday Windlers” can muster fleets of 30 plus for their around-the-lake sailing on Lake Victoria. Why not visit the lake on a Wednesday? Members turn out, except in the most atrocious weather, and are pleased to “turn over the controls” to any interested spectator.

377 hulls [December 2022] have been purchased and they are to be found in all areas of New Zealand and as far afield as the USA, Australia, Canada, Germany and the UK. It is a one-design yacht and all hull shells, keels and trim weights are made from moulds officially approved by the Canterbury J Association with an identification number moulded into the hull.

There are rules that, prohibit exotic materials, define a fixed minimum weight, strictly control dimensions in the three sizes of sail rigs.

The yacht can be bought as a kit or in separate pieces and assembled as the budget allows. This also allows members handy at making small components to make many of the parts and keep the price down. All parts are available: hulls white polyester, keels, brass fittings, and computer-generated sails, winches and radio gear. If you cannot find the part you want we will find it or we can make it at reasonable costs.

There is also an active and increasing North Island fleet sailing out of the T auranga Radio Sailing Club Gilmour Lake Waihi , [links to external sites] , Palmerston North and Auckland

ages of sail

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Endeavour w/ Tools - Wooden Hull (Amati, 1:80)

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Endeavour J Class with Tools - Amati Wooden Kit

Part #AM1700/10

Scale 1:80 - Total length cm. 48 (18.9") - Height cm. 70 (27.6")

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Combo Set #1 - Endeavour - Wooden Hull

Endeavour J Class with Tools - Amati AM1700/10

The yacht Endeavour staked a claim on the America's Cup, winning the first two races. The third regatta was bound to be the most exciting. Fate played an unkind trick to Sir Thoms Sopwith, who failed and thus couldn't win the America's Cup.

Wooden model ship kit features plank-on-frame construction with laser cut keel, frames and deck; double planking in basswood and mahogany; metal and wooden fittings; cloth sails; wooden detailed mast; brass photoetched parts; plans and detailed instructions

Also includes a selection of model building tools.

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J-Class Lionheart 1/16 scale laser-cut frame set, total length 106″ – kit number MW101!

Save yourself weeks of work and get a precise frame set, designed right from the best plans.

Our kit number MW101 comes with:

For a blog entry on the construction of a J-Class model, please click .

Our kits are derived from the Book of America’s Cup yacht designs. Years ago people would use plans like these to make enlarged paper copies and then use those enlarged sheets to cut their own bulkheads and keels. This was extremely time consuming and was imperfect. Today’s modeller can get better results, and reduce his construction time considerably, by using digital media and computer-controlled machinery.

At Modeller’s Workshop, we start with paper plans and use various CAD software to transform the drawings into smooth 3D representations of the plans. Our process ensures you get smooth hulls, good symmetry, and, best of all, a boat that sails well.

Our hulls are designed to allow you to add ballast where necessary and the depths of the keels are tweaked for better handling. This J-Class sailboat hull is deepened by approximately two inches below the scale depth. This is in concordance with the rules of the official J-Class R/C website which can be found

From the line drawing, we make a set of frames and the number of frames we make depends on the size of the model. In the case of this large boat, we send you thirty-one frames. The model is also designed with a T-rail design that you should use to build a straight and true hull. For accurate construction, the T-rail should be lined up carefully and attached to a working board.

Once the design is complete, we transfer the design to the software that runs our laser-cutters. The parts are optimized to reduce material cost and weight. For this large model, you get a number of 24 inch by 12 inch plywood sheets for the hull and another set for the deck parts.

Currently, we have plenty of information about the construction of this model. We also have many pictures of models as well as pictures of the real boat. This material will be made available to you if you decide to build this wonderful model.

Thanks for looking!

The Modeller’s Workshop
Montreal, Canada

#	Option	Price	Sales Tax
1	Price	$595.00	Band 1

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at Whitefriars Sailing Club

J class boats

In 2020 we saw an interesting development with one semi scale 48inch Nottingham J class appear and sail regularly. Since then there have been some interesting discussions around the J class RC boats. In late 2020 an enterprising group of 5 club members decided to build 5 Lionheart J class 60 inch models and while it is a long term project for all of the builders at least 3 boats are within a few months of being on the water. As well we have just learnt that there are 5 new 48 inch Nottingham J class boats in build or on order. To date we know of 6 Nottingham 48s, 5 Lionheart 60 inch, plus a couple of historic boats including K class.

Yachting World

Digital Edition

A pocket guide to the J Class yachts – the world’s most elegant racing fleet

Toby Hodges
March 19, 2017

Toby Hodges profiles the world's most beautiful fleet of classic racing yachts – the J Class

Shamrock V – JK3

J Class yacht Shamrock sailplan

LOA: 36.50m /119ft 9in · LWL: 26.7m/87ft 7in · Beam: 6.00m/19ft 8in · Disp: 166 tonnes

Original lines: Charles E Nicholson

Modified design: Dykstra Naval Architects

Launch year and yard: 1930, Camper & Nicholsons

Identifying features: The only wooden J and the smallest. Dark green hull with bronze deck fittings.

Current state: She has just had a refit in Palma after a long period under her past owner chartering, cruising and occasional racing.

Race prediction:Her smaller size means she will struggle against the other J Class yachts in real time – but she has the most experienced skipper and her recent mods are all aimed at making her competitive on handicap.

Skipper: Simon Lacey · Race Helmsman: Mike ‘Moose’ Sanderson

Photo: J Class Association / Gerhard Standop

Velsheda – JK7

J Class yacht Velsheda sailplan

LOA: 39.25m/128ft 9in · LWL: 27.8m/91ft 3in · Beam: 6.57m/21ft 7in · Disp: 180 tonnes

Launch year and yard: 1933, Camper & Nicholsons. Rebuilt by Southampton Yacht Services in 1997.

Identifying features: Dark blue hull, pinched transom and that iconic sharp J bow.

Current state: Continually optimised and very well prepared.

Race prediction: Highly experienced, well-gelled crew and a yacht that is looking particularly nimble and aggressive at the start. Despite surrendering size to the modern J Class yachts she’s a firm favourite to win any regatta.

Skipper: Barney Henshaw-Depledge · Race helmsman: Owner-driver

Helen Fretter goes racing on board J Class yacht Velsheda

Photo: J Class Association / Onne van der Wal

Endeavour – JK4

J Class yacht Endeavour sailplan

LOA: 39.31m/128ft 12in · LWL: 27.30m/89ft 7in · Beam: 6.68m/21ft 11in · Disp: 175 tonnes

Launch year and yard: 1934, Camper & Nicholson. Relaunched by Royal Huisman in 1989.

Identifying features: Royal ‘Endeavour Blue’ hull, clean deck, single deckhouse.

Current state: Completely refitted by Yachting Developments in 2010-11. Based between Palma and Cascais she is for sale through Edmiston and in prize condition.

Race prediction: Fully optimised and race ready, but is up for sale and now already unlikely to be ready in time for Bermuda.

Skipper: Luke Bines · Race helmsman: N/A (Torben Grael in 2012)

Video exclusive: what it’s like to sail the iconic J Class Endeavour

Photo: J Class Association / Jens Fischer

Ranger – J5

J Class yacht Ranger sailplan

LOA: 41.63m/136ft 7in · LWL: 28.80m/94ft 6in · Beam: 6.41m/21ft 0in · Disp: 203 tonnes

Original design: Starling Burgess and Olin Stephens

Modified design: Studio Scanu, Reichel Pugh, Fred Elliot and Dykstra Naval Architects

Launch year and yard: 2003, Danish Yacht

Identifying features: White hull with snub nose and spoon bow.

Current state: Refitted and optimised at Newport Shipyard 2016, where chainplates were moved forward and tracks modified to take a bigger headsail.

Race prediction: The heaviest J, but a rocket in flat water, such as in Bermuda’s Great Sound. A veteran crew whose consistency is Ranger’s trump card.

Skipper: Dan Jackson · Race helmsman: Erle Williams

Ranger J5 – the first completely new J Class yacht

Ranger , J5 RYS centenary 2015. Photo Paul Wyeth

Rainbow – JH2

J Class yacht Rainbow sailplan

LOA: 39.89m/130ft 11in · LWL: 26.90m/88ft 3in · Beam: 6.42m/21ft 1in · Disp: 167 tonnes

Original lines: William Starling Burgess

Launch year and yard: 2012, Holland Jachtbouw

Identifying features: Black hull, red bottom and modern grey rig with race boom.

Current state: Sold in 2015 by Chris Gongriep, the former owner of Holland Jachtbouw, she has since solely been used for cruising by her US owner who shows no signs of wanting to race, although she will be in Bermuda to watch.

Race prediction: Was cruised and raced extensively for a couple of seasons after she was built and has proven to be a supremely fast boat for her size in the right hands.

J Class yacht Rainbow – the Dutch destroyer

Hanuman – JK6

J Class yacht Hanuman sailplan

LOA: 42.19m/138ft 5in · LWL: 27.50m/90ft 3in · Beam: 6.60m/21ft 8in · Disp: 180 tonnes

Launch year and yard: 2009 Royal Huisman

Identifying features: Carries the old Endeavour II sail number JK6 – but a totally modern day reinterpretation of Sopwith’s second boat, built in aluminium.

Current state: Her weight and stability were optimised at Newport Shipyard in 2016 and she was also fitted with a new mast and rigging, plus a new furling headstay.

Race prediction: With her same core Comanche/Puma crew and Ken Read on the wheel, this is a highly race-oriented J Class yacht.

Skipper: Greg Sloat · Race helmsman: Ken Read

Inside J class yacht Hanuman

Lionheart JH1

J Class yacht Lionheart sailplan

LOA: 43.4m/142ft 5in · LWL 27.2m/89ft 3in · Beam: 6.55m/21ft 6in · Disp: 180 tonnes

Original lines: Starling Burgess and Olin Stephens

Modified design: Hoek Design

Launch year and yard: 2010, Bloemsma and Claasen Jachtbouw

Identifying features: Black hull and rig, bulwarks giving a high freeboard effect, two deckhouses.

Current state: Constantly upgraded, Lionheart has new North raw sails with plans to build more sails before Bermuda.

Race prediction: Lionheart is consistently optimised, has some key pros and a fantastic crew spirit. Should be finishing in the top three in Bermuda.

Skipper: Toby Brand · Race helmsman: Owner-driver · Tactics: Bouwe Bekking

J Class yacht Lionheart J/H1 – replica of an original that was never built

Photo: J Class Association / Thierry Martinez

J Class yacht Topaz sailplan

LOA: 42.7m/140ft 1in · LWL: 27.8m/91ft 3in · Beam: 6.75m/22ft 2in · Disp: 180 tonnes

Original lines: Frank Paine

Launch year and yard: 2015, Holland Jachtbouw

Identifying features: Longest waterline of all the Js (for which there is a sail area penalty) she has a striking Art Deco interior and a dark blue hull with turquoise antifoul.

Current state: New and raring to go.

Race prediction: With her fuller volume forward, longer waterline and shorter keel, Hoek believes she will be the fastest J Class downwind and in light airs. The crew has practised hard since last year and now has top big boat helm in Holmberg.

Skipper: Romke Lopik · Race helmsman: Peter Holmberg

New J Class yacht named Topaz is launched – and the design team says she is “absolutely stunning”

Photo: J Class Association / Carlo Borlenghi

J Class yacht Svea sailplan

LOA: 43.6m/143ft 1in · LWL: 27.6m/90ft 7in · Beam: 6.65m/21ft 10in · Disp: 180 tonnes

Original lines: Tore Holm

Launch year and yard: 2017, Bloemsma / Vitters

Identifying features: Dark grey metallic hull, near flush ultra-clean, ergonomically optimised deck with low single doghouse and huge 8ft diameter wheel that turns in a well that extends down to the keel frames.

Current state: Just launched.

Race prediction: Tore Holm was a gifted Metre designer and Svea looks like a fast upwind boat, with a race oriented deck design and a slippery underwater shape. It’s asking a lot of her crew to be competitive for 2017.

Skipper: Paul ‘PK’ Kelly

Race helmsman: Owner driver

Nine Js and counting: J Class Svea J-S1 is sold and under construction at Vitters

The history of the J-Class

The Js are inextricably linked with the America’s Cup as, barring Velsheda , all were built for the purpose of America’s Cup racing. From 1929 to 1937, 20 J Class yachts were designed. Ten of these went on to be built, with six racing in the America’s Cup finals. A modern J Class yacht’s lines can only be taken from the original designs, ensuring the fleet’s look endures.

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Model Range

The J Class model range consists of two J Class hulls, the Nottingham 48 and the Nottingham 60, each of which can be built to carry either bermuda rigs, gaff rigs and coming shortly a genoa rig. In addition I'm nearing the end of the development of the International Dragon, a little under 60 inches and designed from outset to carry a genoa rig. The Canterbury version of the 48 is still available for those who want to race abroad and I've also included on this website details of the Folkboat project.

The Nottingham 48 and the Nottingham 60 are supplied in "kit" form for the customer to build. The hulls are of very high quality and constructed using traditional fibreglass techniques with pigmented gelcoat to achieve the colour scheme choice of the customer. The kit includes the hull, rudder, ballast (for the 48), internal woodwork with stand, deck and hatches

The Canterbury J is only available in White as the hull will need to be filled and painted when the ballast is fitted however the ballast and woodwork are the same as the Nottingham. In a spirit of honesty I would have to declare that whilst this moulding is from a Canterbury Association approved mould the quality of the moulding is only fair compared with the high quality Nottingham mouldings. The quality is however less relevant as the hull will need to filled and painted anyway

The International Dragon is a new project. This model may become available as a kit but initially is available as a Ready to Run, with the customer only providing the radio. This model is built and engineered to the highest standards and will incorporate improved design features that are not generally found in model yachts...some day all models will be built this way!!

I'm introducing the Folkboat on this site on behalf of a chum, Charles Chambers. The hulls are laminated by ourselves and the model is available from Charles as a Ready to Run.

If you click on the arrow on the menu you will be able to open up more detail.

Frank Russell Design

R/c and model yacht design, plans, boats, sails..

I have been a designer of model and radio yachts since 1968. Boats been built from my plans now number in the hundreds both from both home and production builders. Many of my designs have won State and National Championships in Australia and overseas. New designs are added periodically and occasionally I do receive requests for specific designs. I also from time to time produce free plans.

Most of my older plans Pre 2000 will eventually be available as PDF files of the original large format drawing. The plans are located here:

A more complete list of my designs is here:

Plans are normally drawn on A4 and A3 format. Sections and appendages are normally drawn full size, 1:1. Some fin and bulb drawings are drawn to be printed in two halves and joined after printing. Arrangement drawings are 1:5 and sometimes 1:4.

Make sure when printing that the “Scaling” or “Fit to Page” option is turned off in your printer setup when you print. I also have the “Print Preview” turned on as well so I can check if the page size is correct. All drawings are in either A4 or A3 size paper.

Each drawing has a 100mm scale which will allow you to see if the drawings are the correct size.

The PDF drawings are usually emailed within a few hours of receiving your order from Paypal by email. DXF and DWG formats are available for most plans. Just ask and they also will be emailed.

Printed Paper Plans are available and are printed from the same plan as the PDF. Please ask before ordering. There is usually an additional postage charge for Printed Paper Plans.

LATEST PLANS:

The Erebus -10r shape is based on the Ellipsis IOM. The design has the same LCB and waterline as the P6.1, so Phoenix 6 sail plans can be transferred over to the new hull. The hull is more rounded and has more reserve buoyancy above the waterline which will give the hull more lift over waves. The bow profile also has been lifted slightly for the same reason. Hull balance should be excellent. The deck is flat for simplicity and the plans show the same inbuilt mast ram setup I have been using successfully on both my A Class and 6 Metre designs. Any P6 sail plans used may need to be slightly altered. The Erebus sail plans are similar to the P6.1 but have been modified to suit the new deck design.

LOA 1650mm LWL 1200mm BOA 175mm 4.0kg ballast displacement 5.8kg Draught 630mm

After payment is made. I will email you the pdf file. Plan has A3, A4 sheets and a larger sheet with sections designed for laser cutting.

A printed paper plan can be supplied, postage extra.

Ellipsis M Version 2a Marblehead 2018-2024: This design is based on the successful Ellipsis IOM concept, as is the second of two sailing prototypes for the Equation M design. Of the 3 designs produced, this is favourite and was the only hull created by cutting the Ellipsis IOM in half and adding 128mm to the middle section and then re-fairing. The hull was then rescaled to the needed size and shape.

After payment is made. I will email you the pdf file.

If you require another format: DXF, or DWG, 2D or printed paper plan, postage extra.

Equation Marblehead 2019: This design is based on the successful Ellipsis IOM concept, that of correct volume distribution rather than fashionable features with the emphasis on simplicity This design is the result of two Sailing Marblehead prototypes, The Ellipsis 1c and Ellipsis 2a.

If you require another format: DXF, or DWG, 2D or printed paper plan, postage extra.

Paperclip Mk3 IOM 2024 The hard chine version of the Ellipsis and Equinox IOM’s. It is intended to be built “Tape and Glue” from 1mm plywood sheets. The PDF and DXF drawings for theses hull and deck panels are included as are the sections if you would like to build the hull over frames. The prototype built by Tony Goldsworthy seems to perform well.

The PDF Plan is on 7 A4 and 2 A3 sheets, The laser cut sheets are on 2 large sheets PDF and DXF. The Plan is also available on DXF, or DWG

LOA: 938mm LWL: 915mm BOA: 190mm Disp: 5.1kg

PDF Plan emailed or Printed and posted on 6 A4 and A3 sheets

If you require another format: DXF, or DWG, 2D or 3D or printed paper plan, postage extra.

Ellipsis 36 2023 is a 36 inch restricted class designs based on the Ellipsis IOM design. The 36r design was a request from a UK skipper for a lighter version of the 2017 design for both Radio and vane sailing. This design shuld be more suitable for lighter wind smooth water venues than the 2017.

LOA: 938mm LWL: 915mm BOA: 189mm Disp: 4.4kg

Goth 36 2017 is an 36 inch restricted class design based on the Goth IOM design. The original request came from John Fisher in 2013 who wanted a very light 36r for vane sailing. This design is the third design in the series, which has progressively become heavier and more successful.

New Equinox IOM Plan : The Equinox is a variant of the Ellipsis… IOM. The basic design was produced initially as a 3D printed project that never eventuated for various reasons. Two prototypes were built including a 3D printed boat which was built by John Taylor in the UK. The design incorporates several features of some of the newer IOM shapes including a fuller higher bow profile and wider stern. The design is well balanced and well behaved like the Ellipsis and should be as easy to plank from wood.

Hulls an components for this design are now available. See IOM COMPONENTS Page.

Please ask If you require another format: DXF, or DWG, 2D or 3D or printed paper plan, Postage extra.

Phoenix 4 2020 10r Every new design presents a designer with options to consider and directions to go. After a ten year gap from the P3, all 10r’s had adopted the deep keel, light weight approach and although it did seem to work I after the P5 I though that the Phoenix 4 design although fast went in the wrong direction. I always have thought about what I should have done. So this is P4- 2020, with 2020 hindsight is the result.

LOA 1550mm LWL 1250mm BOA 200mm BWL 180mm, 4.2kg ballast on 600mm Draught and P1 to P3, Marblehead style sail plans on a flat deck.

She even drawn in the same software as the original.

After payment is made. I will email you the pdf file. Plan has A3, A4 sheets and a larger sheet with sections deasigned for laser cutting.

Goth 36 is an 36 inch restricted class design based on the Goth IOM design. The original request came from John Fisher in 2013 who wanted a very light 36r for vane sailing. this design is the second in the series, heavier and more successful. There is also a later 2017 version which will be published soon.

LOA: 938mm LWL: 899mm BOA: 190mm Disp: 4.4kg

If you require another format: DXF, or DWG, 2D or 3D or printed paper plan, just ask.

UFO Mk2 – A development of the successful UFO with a heavier displacement and larger sail plan. Improved aft sections with the chine removed.

LOA: 1838mmLWL: 1250mm Disp: 15kg SA: 0.978763 m2

PDF Plan emailed or Printed and posted on 12 A3 sheets

Phoenix 8 – 10r: The Phoenix MK 8 is a larger more powerful boat than the last three Phoenix Mks. The P8 is a return to the simple design, No chines, no raised fore deck and Marblehead rig profiles as used from P1 to P3. This allows simpler light weight construction and fully open soft decks and shared rigs if you have a Marblehead.

LOA: 1650 mm LWL: 1240mm, BOA: 170mm, Draught: 630 – 680mm, Disp 5.7kg, SA: 1.00 m2

The Free updated IOM mast and boom schematic along with FRD IOM Setup Guide

FRD IOM Setup Guide Mast and Booms combined Feb 2020

Epsilon RG65 – 65 2019: This design is based on the successful Ellipsis IOM concept, that of correct volume distribution rather than fashionable features with the emphasis on simplicity and efficiency.

Plans are PDF format or printed paper plan only. 3D hull and 2D bow and stern sections in DXF or DWG format are available on request.

Cerberus – 6m Something more of a challenge from a designers and builder’s point of view. A class I have always admired. This is Cerberus, my first published Six Metre design. This is the result of several requests for a design in the class and also a desire on my part build a six Metre for fun sailing locally. There are a couple of boats that will be built in the UK to join the fleet there. This design is intended to excel in moderate winds and will outperform anything of similar size drought and displacement in Australian conditions. Plans are $30 pdf plans from my PLANS page with other formats available. This design may also be available for 3D printing at a later date.

LOA: 1515mm, LWL :1020mm, Displacement: 11.75kg, SA:0.682019m2

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America’s Cup Columbia Model Ship (Standard Range) – AM (AS076F)

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J-Yacht ‘Ranger’ 1937 Model (Standard Range) – AM (AS150)

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Friday, august 14, 2020, j class yacht plan.

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Free Plans: SMALL SHIPS & BOATS

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