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Installing Motor Mounts
- By Steve D'Antonio
- August 31, 2022
It comes as a surprise to many boat owners that the only thing transmitting thrust from the propeller to the vessel’s hull, moving the hull forward, is the motor mounts. And, that the only connections between the prop and the hull are four ½-inch or 5⁄8-inch studs. A great deal of faith must be placed in those studs, so it’s worth making sure they are properly installed and maintained.
And not just because they transmit thrust. A motor mount also absorbs vibration and torque, using a rubber or synthetic material as the medium. It’s difficult, if not impossible, to design and construct a motor mount that does all three tasks equally well.
Absorbing vibration requires a softer durometer, while transmitting thrust and contending with torque requires a more robust durometer. The engine wants to counter-rotate in the opposite direction from the prop, which means the mounts on one side of the engine are compressed more than those on the other side. In some cases, the mounts on one side might actually be lifted, which means they are in tension rather than compression. For this reason, some engine manufacturers specify different durometer mounts for left and right.
Taking these variables into account, most mount designs must represent a compromise across the range of use.
Commonly, the cause of motor-mount failure is related to installation and the length of exposed stud. Ideally, motor mounts should not be adjusted to the limit of their travel, up or down. Motor mounts are the primary mechanism for adjusting engine location relative to the propeller shaft, otherwise known as alignment. The coarse adjustment should be performed by the boatbuilder or engine installer using shims, or by removing some of the stringer to depress the mount.
The goal is to get the engine bracket, which connects the engine to the mount stud, somewhere in the middle of the coarse-adjustment range. Then fine adjustment takes place, with the engine being moved a small distance up or down. If the engine is at the top of the stud’s adjustment at the end of this process, the leverage imparted to the stud can lead to its failure. If the engine is at the bottom of the stud’s travel, no further adjustment is possible—a potential problem for future alignment.
Fasteners used to secure the mount’s base to the stringer or shelf on which it rests should be a through bolt, machine screw or lag bolt, in that order. Through bolts offer the greatest security. Machine screws that are screwed into a tapped metal plate embedded into the stringer are a close second, although if they strip, repair can be difficult. Lag bolts are less than ideal because their coarse threads are engaging fiberglass and likely timber, which can fracture or strip if overtightened. And, if the timber gets wet, it will rot, allowing the fastener to pull out.
The fasteners should be the same diameter as the hole in the mount base. There should be no slop or play. If there is, the engine might shift fore and aft when changing gears. Because of the cyclical and reversing nature of loads on mounts, fasteners are prone to loosening. Nylon insert locking nuts or cam-style lock washers should be used to ensure their security. Mounts should be aligned parallel to the vessel’s centerline, and studs should be perpendicular to their base. If twisted, the life of the flexible inserts can be severely shortened.
Motor mounts should be inspected regularly. The studs and the shell (or cap) are usually mild steel, so they should be corrosion-inhibited. Check all adjustment and mounting hardware, making certain it is tight; you’ll need to put your fingers on each one to do this. If you see any indication that the mount base is sliding, that’s cause for concern.
Finally, look for signs of deteriorating flexible insert material, which will often show up as black dust or “crumbs” around the base of the mount.
Steve D’Antonio offers services for boat owners and buyers through Steve D’Antonio Marine .
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Brackets should be strong, durable, and, most importantly, easy to operate without having to hang out over the transom. What Was Tested. We rounded up eight brackets from five manufacturers—Fulton, Garelick, Triangle, Minn Kota and Outboard Motor Corp. (OMC). Prices ranged from $95 to $380.
Replaced the motor mounts on my 23 yr old 410. Purchased Ellebogen mounts which were a direct replacement. The job turned out to be not too bad. Originally I thought I would remove the motor mount brackets from the engine and remount the new engine mounts off the boat. As it turned out I could not remove the bracket bolts from the engine.
This motor mount is capable of being adjusted for load as well as height to ensure even weight distribution. The mount's flexible insert is twisted, which is problematic. ... Steve D'Antonio. It comes as a surprise to many boat owners that the only thing transmitting thrust from the propeller to the vessel's hull, moving the hull forward ...
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Marine Engine Mounts. ELLEBOGEN® marine mounts are designed and manufactured for leisure boat users who want the optimum degree of vibration isolation and durability. All ELLEBOGEN® marine mounts are manufactured from high quality components and subjected to specific stiffness and durability specifications. FIND YOUR MOUNT.
SKU: 550021. The adjustable outboard motor bracket is designed for motors up to 20HP or 115 lbs max weight. Heavy duty, light weight aluminum is designed for fresh water use on both power boats and sail boats. Manual operation means no power is required to raise and lower your auxiliary outboard motor. Spring loaded (11″ of travel with 5 ...
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1. 2. No matter what type of auxiliary motor you have, we have the motor mount you need to make sure your motor is secure and ready for use whenever you need it. Have questions about which auxiliary motor mounts are right for your boat, contact our team of boating experts at 877-388-2628 Monday through Friday 9:00 AM until 6:00 PM EST.
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I did something similar on my last boat. The core seemed pretty sound. It looks like the bolts simply came loose from vibration. I drilled 4 new holes, for a total of 8, fastened then with nylock nuts and used 3M 4600 sealer on everything. Cleaned, repaired and lubed the motor mount while I was at it. mostly installation went pretty well.
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