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Rolex Reference Number Guide: Complete Resource List

Rolex Reference number Guide: The Go-to Resource List

All Rolex watches have two engravings on the metal of its case. These engravings are what are known as the reference number and the serial number. The serial number can be found on the 6 o’clock side of the case of the watch, but from 2010, Rolex started engraving the serial number of their watches on the rehaut instead, which is the inner metal ring below the crystal. During a period, though, some Rolex watches got the serial number engraved both on the case and on the rehaut, but on modern Rolex watches, the serial number is only engraved on the rehaut.

Then, we have the second engraving, which is what we’ll be focusing on in this article, and that is the Rolex reference number. The reference number is engraved on the 12 o’clock side of the case.

The reference number is engraved between the lugs of the watch, on the case

Now, the serial number and reference number of a Rolex watch aren’t engraved by accident, but instead, they actually have several important purposes.

The reference number of a Rolex watch describes more about what watch it is, which model, and what elements it is made up of.

The serial number, on the other hand, can tell you when the watch was manufactured, and also work as a unique identification number for your watch.

Of course, if you know nothing about Rolex reference numbers or serial numbers, the numbers won’t tell you anything. To most people, these numbers mean nothing, but they actually give quite a lot of information, and each digit represents a defining characteristic of the watch.

In the middle of the 1950s, Rolex reached 999,999 which caused them to start over at 100,000. During this transition time (transition years), Rolex also stamped the date of the watch on the inside of the casebook, and they did so by using Roman numbers for each quarter.

Since Rolex has used reference numbers for a long time, the way they are used and how long the number is has evolved over the years. The Rolex reference numbers can vary between 4 to 6 digits in length.

Now, what each of the numbers means, and what each digit position in the number tells us, we’ll go into detail further on, but let’s go over them quickly, to begin with.

The first two or three digits in the Rolex reference number gives you information about which model it is. This is a huge help since by only knowing the two or three first digits that each model is represented by, you can instantly tell which model is being spoken about from the Rolex reference number.

When we say ”the model”, it is the most defining characteristic of that particular model type, which includes its size and the type of movement used in the watch.

If the Rolex reference number is made up of five digits, the 4th digit will refer to the style of the bezel on that watch. Note that there are some exceptions to this.

The last number in the reference number tells you which material the watch is made from.

When it comes to metal, it may sound unnecessary since you can clearly see what material a watch is made of, however, that’s not always the case.

In fact, when Rolex uses things like a mixture of white gold and stainless steel, it can be mistaken to only be stainless steel, or when Rolex uses their Rolesium metal, which is a mixture of titanium and Stainless steel.

In especially these cases, it gets much easier to identify which materials a Rolex watch is actually made in, since the eye may be tricked sometimes.

Furthermore, the Rolex reference is also great for identifying whether or not the watch is original or if certain parts have been changed. By looking at the Rolex reference number, you can identify which elements the watch should have, and then inspect the watch to confirm that.

When talking about serial numbers, Rolex began using a letter as the first digit of their serial numbers in 1987 to signify the year of production for that specific watch.

The Rolex reference number can’t be used to identify which year your watch was made, and that’s when the serial number comes in handy.

Rolex reference numbers: more helpful information

Rolex reference numbers can actually be used to distinguish counterfeit Rolex watches in some cases. The fact is that many counterfeit Rolex doesn’t even have the reference number engraved, and if they do, they tend to have completely made-up imaginary numbers. If the case is that the counterfeit watch has the real reference number, you’ll still be able to tell a real from a fake by looking at the quality of the engraving. Fake watch engravings tend to have an acid-etched look while the real watches have a   diamond engraving made to perfection.

On Rolex watches that were made before the 1980s, you’ll find a four-digit reference number, but on the flip side, on Rolex models released between the 1980s and 2000, you’ll find a 5 digit number.

The first two or three digits of the reference number can be used to identify the model of the watch, and we’ll present a list further on with the first numbers in the Rolex reference number and what model it alludes to.

The modern Rolex watches released from 2000 and onwards will have a 6-digit reference number with a number “1” prefacing the 5-digit reference number. The numeric preface may change as more models are released.

• The 5th digit refers to the bezel type
• The 6th digit refers to the bracelet type.

Now, you’re aware of the fact that Rolex reference numbers can give us quite a lot of information about the different Rolex models, but what exactly is it they tell us?

Well, each digit in the Rolex reference number actually refers to a particular element of the watch, and the different numbers tell us different things about the watch.

On traditional Rolex models, the first three digits in the reference number tell us what model the watch is.

These three digits can be used to determine the model of traditional Rolex models:

• 140 = Oyster Perpetual Air-King and Submariner
• 142 = Oyster Perpetual Chronometer 34mm and Explorer
• 152 = Oyster Perpetual Date – Mens 34 mm
• 162 = Oyster Perpetual Datejust Men’s 36mm
• 165 = Explorer II
• 166 = Submariner, SeaDweller, Yachtmaster 40mm
• 167 = GMT Master II
• 170 = Oyster Quartz Datejust
• 189 = Oyster Perpetual Special Edition
• 190 = Oyster Quartz Day-Date
• 1165 Cosmograph Daytona
• 1182 Oyster Perpetual Day-Date
• 1183 Oyster Perpetual Day-Date Serti (With Diamonds)

The modern Rolex models after 2004-2006 have an extra ”1” which is added to the beginning of the reference number which tells us that it is the modern version of an existing model. For example, while the older version no-date Submariner has the reference number 14060, the new ceramic no-date submariner has the reference number 114060, allowing us to differentiate the modern from the older model.

The sixth digit in the reference number, which is the last number of modern Rolex watches, is the digit that refers to the watch’s metal. For watches with a reference number with fewer digits than 6, the last digit in the reference number tells you what metal type it is made of.

The following numbers tell you that the different materials are used:

• 0 = Stainless Steel
• 1 = Stainless steel and Everose Gold ( Everose Rolesor )
• 2 = Stainless steel and Platinum (Yachtmaster)
• 3 = Stainless Steel and 18k Yellow gold (Yellow Rolesor)
• 4 = Stainless Steel and 18k White gold (White Rolesor)
• 5 = Gold Shell (No Longer in use)
• 6 = Platinum
• 7 = 14k Yellow gold (No Longer Used)
• 8 = 18k Yellow gold
• 9 = 18k White gold
• BIC = Bi-Color 18k Yellow and White gold combo
• TRIDOR = 18k Yellow, White, and Rose gold

Bezel code in the Rolex reference number

The 5th digit in the Rolex reference number tells us what type of bezel the watch has.

0 Smooth/Domed

• Engine Turned
• Pyramide -Not in use
• Special – Not currently in use
• Open -Not Currently in use

Rolex Submariner reference numbers

• 6204:  First Submariner without crown guards and 37mm case.
• 6205: Early Submariner without crown guards and 37mm case.
• 6200:  Early Submariner without crown guards and famous for its’ 3-6-9 “Explorer dial”.
• 6536:  Early Submariner with bigger crown and 38mm case.
• 6536/1:  Early Submariner with a small crown and known for its appearance in the first James Bond movie.
• 6538:  Early Submariner that can be seen both with the 3-6-9 dial and an ordinary in its 38mm case.
• A/6538:  Modded 6538 and the first MilSub made for Special Boat Squadron in 21 copies, was never sold on the civilian market.
• 5508:  Early Submariner with no crown guards and 37mm case.
• 5510:  Early Submariner with a 38mm case without crown guards.
• 5512:  A new case with crown guards and 40mm, COSC-certified written text on the dial.
• 5513:  The same as 5512 but not COSC-certified text on the dial.
• 5517:  MilSub made for the British military known for its sword hands. Also known as 5513/17.
• 5514:  The same as 5513 but moded with a gas escape valve for professional Comex divers.
• 1680:  First Submariner with date function. Can be seen with Submariner text written in red and white.
• 16803: Two-Tone Submariner with blue and black dial and bezel.
• 16808: Yellow gold submariner.
• 16800: A transitional model of the Submariner. First dial with white gold index.
• 168000: Updated 16800.
• 16610:  Finally fully updated Submariner from 1680. A case with Rehaut but most without.
• 16613: Two-Tone Submariner with blue and black dial and bezel. A case with Rehaut but most without.
• 16618: Solid yellow gold Submariner. A case with Rehaut but most without.
• 14060: No date and updated Submariner.
• 14060M: Updated submariner and case with Rehaut but most without.
• 16610LV: Green bezel and Submariners’ 50 years anniversary model .
• 116610LN: Ceramic bezel with a new case. Maxi hands and dial.
• 116610LV: Green ceramic bezel and a new case. Maxi hands and dial.
• 116613: Two-Tone ceramic Submariner with both black and blue dial and bezel. Maxi hands and dial.
• 116618LB: Solid yellow gold Submariner with blue and black dial and bezel. Maxi hands and dial. Maxi hands and dial.
• 116619LB: Solid white gold Submariner with blue dial and bezel.

Rolex GMT Master reference numbers

• 6542: First GMT Master with modified movement. Bakelite and steel bezel. Pepsi inserts. No crown guards
• 6542/8: Yellow gold GMT Master. No crown guards.
• 1675: Second GMT Master with both Pepsi and an all-black bezel. The first case with crown guards.
• 16753:  Two-Tone GMT Master with rootbeer bezel.
• 16758: All yellow gold GMT Master.
• 16750: First GMT Master with quickset movement. Pepsi and black bezel.
• 16760: GMT Master is also known as “Fat Lady” for its’ bigger case. Coke insert ( black and red ).
• 16700: Black, Pepsi ( blue and red ), and Coke ( black and red ) insert.
• 16710: Black, Pepsi ( blue and red ), and Coke ( black and red ) insert. First GMT Master II.
• 16713: Two-Tone GMT Master II in both rootbeer and black insert.
• 116710LN: Updated GMT Master II with ceramic bezel, maxi dial, and hands. This reference had a black bezel.
• 116710BLNR: Updated GMT Master II with ceramic bezel, maxi dial, and hands with Batman ( blue and black ) ceramic bezel.
• 116713LN: Two-Tone GMT Master II with a black insert with ceramic bezel, maxi dial and hands.
• 116718LV: Solid gold GMT Master celebrating 50 years of the GMT Master with green bezel and dial.
• 116719BLRO: White gold GMT Master II with Pepsi ceramic bezel ( blue and red ).
• 126710BLRO:  Brand new “Pepsi” model with Jubilee bracelet. Blue and red bezel.
• 126710BLNR:  The updated version of the 116710blnr with the Jubilee bracelet and new movement.
• 126711CHNR:  Also known as “root beer”. Gold and steel GMT, made in Everose gold and steel.
• 126715 CHNR: Full rose gold version of the “root beer”

Rolex Air King reference numbers

• 1400:   Updated version with sapphire crystal and a new caliber 3000 movement.
• 4365: Made in the 1940s. The first Rolex Air-King measured 34 millimeters.
• 4925: The first Oyster watch to feature the iconic Air-King moniker on the dial.
• 5502: Acrylic crystal. 1530 automatic movement.
• 5520: Silver dial, automatic movement. Gold case.
• 6500: Oyster Perpetual and chronometer rated. This Rolex reference was never branded an Air-King.
• 14000M: Automatic movement, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, waterproof screw-down crown. Case in 34mm.
• 14010M: Automatic 3130 movement, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, waterproof screw-down crown
• 114234: Introduced in In 2007. The last model of the Air-king family (of the past generation since the model was revived in 2016). It features a white gold bezel and is the only Air-king with such element.
• 114210: 34mm case, Silver Luminous with Arabic hour markers at 3, 6, 9. Automatic movement, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. Waterproof.
• 5700: Automatic movement, acrylic crystal, waterproof screw-down crown. Blue, linen, or silver dial.
• 5506: Automatic movement, acrylic crystal. Yellow gold plated.
• 5501: Automatic 1520 movement. Acrylic crystal, waterproof. Screw-down crown. Oyster case. Introduced in 1958.
• 5500: It is technically an Air-King, but Rolex also offered the ref. 5500 with an Explorer dial for about 10 years.
• 5504: Stainless steel. The 5504 case was used as both the Air-King as well as the Explorer. Featuring a 1530 caliber movement.
• 114200: Automatic movement, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, waterproof screw-down crown. 3130 movement 34mm.
• 6552: Built upon the 34mm Oyster Case.  
• 1002: The 1002 is often quoted as an Air-King model, but it never was – it was only an Oyster perpetual.
• 1401: Stainless Steel. Water Resistant to 100 meters.  
• 5701: A less-common model than most Air-King references.
• 116900:  The newest and current Air-King model. Released in 2016. 39mm case.

Rolex Oysterquartz reference numbers (all Oysterquartz models)

• 17000: Among the first examples of the OysterQuartz watches. Made in early 1978. Tritium luminous. Caliber 5035 with date indication.
• 17013: Two-tone version with 18k yellow gold and steel. 100m water-resistant.Rolex caliber 5035.
• 17014: Quickset date, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. 18k white gold fluted bezel. Datejust model.
• 19018: Full yellow gold. Available with different dials. Day-Date model.  
• 19019: Day-Date model. Made in 18k white gold. 36 mm.
• 19028: Day-Date model. Pyramid design details. Pyramid motif on both the bezel and the center links of the President bracelet. Unique and rare version of the OysterQuartz. Full 18k yellow gold.
• 19038: A middle-way model between the 19028 and the 19068. Pyramid motif on the bezel and center links of the president bracelet as well as twelve diamonds mounted from the factory. The 1903 is just like the 19028 other than that it has diamonds on the dial.
• 19048: It is a 19018 but has a different reference number since it has a bezel fitted with 44 brilliant-cut diamonds.
• 19049: Full 18k white gold. Day-Date model. It is just like the 19019 but has a different reference number since it has a bezel fitted with 44 brilliant-cut diamonds.
• 19058: Extremely rare version of the Oysterquartz. One of the rarest versions. Fitted with a bezel with 44 curved baguette-cut diamonds, rubies, or sapphires.
• 19068: Day-Date model. Equipped with a 44 brilliant-cut diamond bezel.
• 19078: The rarest Oysterquartz models there is. Fitted with a rainbow gem-set bezel with 44 curved baguette-cut gems in rainbow colors,   and a rainbow gem dial. Equipped with a 19028 pyramid bracelet. Day-Date model. Full 18k yellow gold.
• 19148: This model is just like the 19048 but features a bracelet with a twelve brilliant-cut diamonds per center link. The watch was crusted with 44 brilliant-cut diamonds on the bezel, 8 brilliant-cut diamonds on the case and 300 brilliant-cut diamonds on the bracelet. Day-date model.
• 19168:   Featuring an octopus bracelet. Normally production year 1987. Baguette and brilliant-cut stones on the bracelet and 44 curved baguette-cut stones on the bezel Full 18k yellow gold.
• 19149: Day-Date model. Full 18k white gold.

Rolex Yacht-Master reference numbers

• 16622: Automatic Rolex cal. 3135 movement, Quickset, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, waterproof screw-down crown. Platinum rotatable bezel. Made in Rolesium.
• 16628: Full 18K yellow gold. Automatic Rolex Caliber 3135 movement with date function. Movement with 31 jewels and quickset function. scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, waterproof screw-down crown. Rotatable bezel.
• 68623: 35mm. Two-tone with 18k yellow gold and stainless steel. Discontinued in 1999.  
• 68628: Full 18k yellow gold. 35mm case. Rotating bezel.
• 168622: 35mm. Platinum Uni-directional rotating bezel. Platinum dial. Rolex Calibre 2235 automatic movement. 48-hour power reserve.
• 168623: Two-tone 18K contrasted by stainless steel. 100 meters of water resistance.
• 168628:   Full 18k yellow gold. 100 meters waterproof. Automatic movement, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, waterproof, screw-down crown.
• 169623: Two-tone. 18k gold and stainless steel.  
• 169628: Full 18k yellow gold. Automatic movement. Bi-rotational Bezel, Date, Second Hand
• 169622: Platinum and steel. unidirectional rotating bezel.  
• 166233: Mechanical automatic movement. Rotatable 18k yellow gold bezel. 18k yellow gold and stainless steel case and bracelet.
• 116689:   White Dial with a body in white gold and platinum. Oyster bracelet in solid white gold. 
• 116688:   Yacht-Master II in yellow gold with a blue bezel. 
• 116655:  40mm Yacht-Master in rose gold with black dial and bezel
• 69628:   29mm ladies’ Yacht-Master in yellow gold with a blue and white dial. 
• 69623:   29mm ladies’ Yacht-aster in two-tone ( yellow gold and steel ). 
• 116622:  40mm Yacht-Master in steel and platinum bezel. Available with blue or white dial.
• 268621:  Two-Tone Yacht-Master in rose gold and steel in 37mm. Available with a brown/black dial.
• 116681:  Yacht-Master II in two-tone ( Yellow gold and stainless steel ) with a blue bezel.
• 116621:  40mm Yacht-Master in two-tone (rose gold and stainless steel )
• 268655:  37mm rose gold Yacht-Master with an Oysterflex rubber strap.
• 268622:  37mm Yacht-Master in stainless steel and platinum bezel. Known for the blue second hand.
• 126655: Updated version of 116655 with new caliber 3235 and featuring Glidelock clasp.
• 126622: Updated version of 116622 with new 3235 movement.
• 226659: New Basel 2018 release. White gold 42mm case with Oysterflex bracelet.

Rolex Explorer reference numbers

• 1655: Explorer II nicknamed ”Steve McQueen”. 24-hour bezel, GMT hand, waterproof screw-down crown, acrylic crystal.
• 16570: Explorer II model. Black or white ”polar” dial. 24-hour bezel. GMT hand. Stainless steel.
• 16550: Explorer II model. A predecessor of 16570. Transitional reference 16550, which came between the 1655 and the
• 16570:  Black and white dial. A mistake in the production made the early series of the white dials more cream-colored.
• 114270: Explorer I model. 36mm. 100m water resistance. 3, 6, 9 Arabic numerals.
• 14270: Explorer I model. no-date. 36mm. 3, 6, 9 Arabic numerals. caliber 3000 movement.
• 6610: Explorer I model. 3, 6, 9 indexes with tritium lime. One of the early Explorer models.
• 6350: The first watch to carry the Explorer name on the dial was the reference 6350. Launched in 1953.  
• 6298: Prototype watch used by explorers in the early 1950s, eventually leading to the development of the Explorer line. Called ‘Big Bubblebacks’.
• 6150: Pre-explorer model. The 6150 is one of the rarest and earliest examples of the “Explorer” model which doesn’t carry the Explorer name on the dial.
• 6098: Big bubble back watch. The successor of the 5020.  
• 5504: 3, 6, 9 Arabic numerals.  
• 1016: 3, 6, 9 Arabic numerals in tritium lume.  
• 216570 :   Black and white dial Explorer II 42mm
• 16570:   Black and white dial Explorer II 40mm,
• 5506: Dating back to mid-1950’s. The first use of the Rolex 1530 automatic movement. Referred to as Rolex dress Explorers. Dressier versos of the then 1016 Explorer. Available in two-tone or gold-filled cases.
• 6299: The reference 6299, as opposed to the standard 6298, refers to the watch being Yellow gold/stainless steel as opposed to the ref 6298 being only stainless steel.
• 5500: Essentially an Air-king with a classic gilt 3,6,9 Explorer dial. Available in two variants: Precision and Super Precision. Produced only from 1958 to 1967
• 5501: Fluted gold bezel. ”Precision” on the dial and the text ”Explorer”.

Rolex Milgauss reference numbers

• 1019: One of the most sought-after vintage Milgauss. Without luminous dots as requested by CERN who needed a watch which wouldn’t interfere with their experiments since the tritium used as the luminous material emitted radioactive ”signals”. Because of this non-lune version, the 1019 Milgauss has become one of the more desirable vintage Milgauss models.
• 6541:   Similar to an early Submariner in its case design. 25-jewel, self-winding movement. Featuring a black rotating bezel. lightning bolt-shaped seconds hand.
• 116400GV: The anniversary Milgauss edition “glass verte” with green sapphire glass.
• 116400: The first model in Rolex’s revived Milgauss collection which launched in 2007 after nearly two decades of absence.

Rolex Daytona reference number (and other Rolex chronographs)

• 116500LN -new 2016 released stainless steel Daytona with ceramic bezel.

Rolex Sea-Dweller reference numbers

• 1665:  Can be seen with various types of dials. This reference features a double red print on the dial.

Rolex Cellini reference numbers

Rolex datejust reference numbers, rolex bubbleback reference numbers, rolex day-date reference numbers.

On the inside of the clasp hinge, you’ll find what is known as the clasp/bracelet code. The clasp code on Rolex watches can be used to determine the year and month of the year when it was made. Have in mind though, that it’s not completely uncommon for Rolex watches to have bracelets that have a different date (thus were manufactured at a different time) than the watch’s case.

The clasp code consists of one or two letters which are then followed by a number. The letter in the code represents the year in which the bracelet was made, and the digits refer to the month it was made.

• A =  1976
• Z – W= 1998
• OP – 2006
• The letter S gives information that the watch has a service bracelet.

For more information about Rolex clasp codes, read our complete guide to Rolex clasp codes .

We hope that you found this Rolex Serial number resource helpful! Don’t forget to take a look at our collection of Rolex watches available.

Do you have any additional specific questions regarding Rolex reference numbers and watches?  Consult one of our watch experts here !

We have gone to great lengths to confirm and check so that the information provided here is correct, but if you see any incorrect information, kindly let us know and we will correct it.

38 thoughts on “ Rolex Reference Number Guide: Complete Resource List ”

Hey, I cant find the price to 16248 1987, 18K all over the internet. Can you give some hint of prizes? Thank You!

Hi, About 10-15K Euro depending on the condition, dial, accessories, bracelet etc.

Kind regards, Millenary Watches

I recently inherited a 1958 6605 Datejust. The jeweler tells me the ref. # is 354389. I cannot seem to make sense of it after reading your article. Am I missing something?

Hi, There is no such reference ever made. 6605 would be the reference number (model number) and then there is the serial number which is unique to the watch which is a different number.

I have two watches gifted that I am trying to get some info on to check authenticity and age. I have read the article and am still confused with the numbers I was given. A jeweler took the backs off K886180 & 83858 1263000 & 62610

Thanks for your list of clasps, bracelets, and style and serial number, Thanks to your list I caught a guy selling counterfeit Rolex watches in Florida. The bracelets were the giveaway They all had the same number on them 16233 which is a style number not a bracelet number,

Glad you found it helpful! Yes, that is definitely not correct!

Hi my wife has a Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date with white dial Roman numerals. It’s small size maybe 26mm the reference number is 78240 and bracelet AB7 and there is another number near the lugs 590B or something. It doesn’t say Date Just just Date. I figure it must of been made in July 2000. Is it real?

Hi, It’s impossible to comment on authenticity without having inspected it in person so we would advise you to take it to a professional watchmaker for an inspection. 590B would be the “end link” number, 78240 is the bracelet reference number.

I just purcahased a 2008 Rolex Yachtmaster Stainless Steel. It has a Rehaut with Rolex all around and the serial number. I also see the smail Rolex logo on the cyrstal at 6 o’clock(hard to find). I took it to a watchmaker who didn’t want to scratch the case by mistake, so we didn’t open the case. He had a machine thet he put the watch on that told him things I wasn’t fimilar with that proved to him it was good. It even told him it was running 14 seconds fast.He looked it over with his lope and said he thought it was real. My problem is the serial number on the rehaut is M905506. Any reference i can find including here says it should start with 166,686 or 696. Do you think i have a fake? i have until 3-28-23 to return it to Chrono 24. Thank you so much for any help you can offer. Dan

Hi, In around 2009, Rolex began using random serial numbers for its watches. You still have a sequential serial number and based on the serial number you provided, the production year is 2007 or 2008. As such, that is correct for your watch as you mentioned it is from 2008. Based on this, there’s nothing wrong with the serial number of this watch and it doesn’t sound like it is fake. You also got reassurance from a watchmaker which is a positive sign as well.

I am trying to understand the difference between a Submariner reference number 16613 and 16613LB. Can you explain please?

Hi, LB stands for “lunette bleu” and refers to the use of a blue bezel insert. Rolex officially began using the term “LB” when they began using ceramic bezel inserts, which was for the model that replaced the 16613, 116613LB.

Since Rolex made both a blue and a black version of the 16613, you could say 16613LN or 16613LB for clarification. If you’re just talking about the models in general, you could say 16613 but that would not tell which version you are talking about. So technically, there is no difference other than the fact that you specify more closely if it’s a blue or a black version.

The bottom line is, there is no difference other that when you say “16613LB”, you’re specifically talking about the blue version.

Hi. May I ask you about the price of a 1833 dated in 1974. Totally new. Never used and with its original documents and box. Thank you so much in advance. Cordial greetings

Hi, A completely unworn and “new old stock” 1833 complete with box and papers is a true collector’s item and would definitely fetch a premium over models that have been used. Depending on the dial, it would likely fetch somewhere around €30.000 to €40.000 but if it’s truly unworn and in brand new condition, and with a special and unique dial, such as a stone dial, it could fetch more than that at auction.

I have Rolex date just oyster perpetual gold 18k , I only find the serial 72200 ; how can I know if it’s original or not?

Hi, 72200 sounds like the bracelet reference number (72200 is the reference number for an Oyster bracelet). If you are unsure about the authenticity of your watch, you can order a consulting service here and one of our watch experts will be able to assist: https://millenarywatches.com/watches/watch-consulting/

I was gifted what is thought to be a fake Rolex Submariner. It has the Rolex Crown (12 o’clock), Rolex name, and serial number (6 o’clock)on the dial rehaut (inner bezel) That I can tell with a small magnifying glass there is no serial number between the 6 o’clock lugs NOR can I see a model/reference number between the 12 o’clock lugs. Do all Rolex’s have a model/reference number engraved between the 12 o’clock lugs? Could this be real and it is worn off by the band? Please help.

Thank you Bobby

Hi, Modern Rolex watches have the serial number on the rehaut at 6 o’clock and not on the case. With that said, if the serial number is on the rehaut then that is correct for a modern Rolex watch.

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– The Ultimate Rolex Reference Numbers Guide

The ultimate rolex reference numbers guide.

• Christine Ye
• March 15, 2024

What Is A Rolex Reference Number?

You might be surprised to learn that Rolex reference numbers can reveal quite a bit of information about a Rolex watch . Also known as the model number or style number, these numbers provide information about the model type, material, production period, and more. Below is a Rolex reference numbers chart which outlines the first 2-4 digits of each model, such as the Submariner , Datejust , Day-Date , Yacht-Master , and so on.

Rolex Reference Number Model Chart

Rolex reference numbers can be four to six digits long. The first reference numbers were four digits, and in the late-1970s, Rolex began switching to five-digit reference numbers. Around the 2000s, Rolex transitioned to six-digit reference numbers, often just adding a “1” to the beginning of the five-digit reference numbers. Therefore, depending on the number of digits a reference number has, it can tell you the approximate era in which a watch was produced.

In general, the length of the Rolex reference number indicates the following time periods:

• 4-Digit Reference numbers: Vintage Rolex watch produced prior to the late-1970s
• 5-Digit Reference numbers: Discontinued Rolex watch produced anywhere from the late-1970s until 1999
• 6-Digit Reference: Modern Rolex watch produced anywhere from 2000 to the present

A Rolex reference number can be found between the lugs at the 12 o’clock side of the case

Case Material and Bezel Style

While the first few digits convey the model type, the last digit (in five and six-digit Rolex reference numbers only) reveals the material of the watch.

Rolex Material Codes

The second-to-last digit (in the five or six-digit Rolex reference numbers) indicates the bezel style of Rolex dress watches, such as the Datejust , Day-Date , and Oyster Perpetual . This does not apply to Rolex sports watches like the Submariner , GMT-Master , Explorer  or Daytona .

Rolex Bezel Codes

Bezels from left to right: smooth, fluted, Turn-O-Graph

Finally, some Rolex reference numbers also include letters at the end. These letters are abbreviations to signify either the color of the bezel or the types of gems used in the bezel. There is one instance where the letters refer to the color of the sapphire crystal. Since most of these abbreviations are in French, we have included the translations and abbreviation meanings below.

Rolex Reference Letters Codes

Left to right: Rolex GMT-Master II Ref. 116710BLNR, Submariner Date Ref. 116659SABR, Milgauss Ref. 116400GV

Appreciating The Rolex Reference Number

Once you understand the structure of the Rolex reference number, it is easier to identify the details of a specific watch, such as the type of materials, bezel type, dial color, or which model you possess. Rather than a random string of digits and letters, the reference number is a code that once understood, can help to reveal the model, era, case size, and bezel style of a Rolex watch.

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2024 Rolex GMT Master II NEW RELEASE “Bruce Wayne” Oyster 126710GRNR

2024 Rolex GMT Master II NEW RELEASE “Bruce Wayne” Jubilee 126710GRNR

Rolex GMT Master II “Bumblebee” Gold and Steel Jubilee 126713GRNR

Rolex gmt master ii “bumblebee” jubilee 126713grnr – used.

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Yacht-Master

THE WATCH OF THE OPEN SEAS

The Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master, the emblematic nautical watch, embodies the privileged ties between Rolex and the world of sailing that stretch back to the 1950s.

Launched in 1992, the Yacht-Master was designed specifically for navigators and skippers. Embodying the rich heritage that has bound Rolex and the world of sailing since the 1950s, this Professional-category watch provides a perfect blend of functionality and nautical style, making it equally at home on and off the water.

ROTATABLE BEZEL WITH RAISED GRADUATIONS

The Yacht-Master is easily recognized by its bidirectional rotatable 60-minute graduated bezel made entirely from precious metal – Everose gold or platinum – or fitted with a Cerachrom insert in high-technology ceramic. The raised, polished graduations and numerals stand out clearly against a matt background. This characteristic and functional bezel – which enables the wearer to read time intervals, for example, the sailing time between two buoys – plays a full part in creating the visual identity of the watch. The bezel can be turned with ease thanks to its knurled edge, which offers excellent grip.

CHROMALIGHT DISPLAY

The Yacht-Master offers great legibility in all circumstances, even in the dark, thanks to its Chromalight display: the large hour markers and broad hands are filled or coated with a luminescent material emitting a long-lasting blue glow – for up to two times longer than traditional phosphorescent materials .

THE YACHT-MASTER, SUPERLATIVE CHRONOMETER CERTIFIED

Like all Rolex watches, the Yacht-Master is covered by the Superlative Chronometer certification redefined by Rolex in 2015. This exclusive designation attests that every watch leaving the brand’s workshops has successfully undergone a series of tests conducted by Rolex in its own laboratories and according to its own criteria. These certification tests apply to the fully assembled watch, after casing the movement, guaranteeing superlative performance on the wrist in terms of precision, power reserve, waterproofness and self-winding. The Superlative Chronometer status is symbolized by the green seal that comes with every Rolex watch and is coupled with an international five-year guarantee.

The precision of every movement – officially certified as a chronometer by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) – is tested a second time by Rolex after being cased, to ensure that it meets criteria that are far stricter than those of the official certification. The precision of a Rolex Superlative Chronometer is of the order of −2/+2 seconds per day – the rate deviation tolerated by the brand for a finished watch is significantly smaller than that accepted by COSC for official certification of the movement alone.

The Superlative Chronometer certification testing is carried out after casing using state-of-the-art equipment specially developed by Rolex and according to an exclusive protocol that simulates the conditions in which a watch is actually worn and more closely represents real-life experience. The entirely automated series of tests also checks the waterproofness, the self-winding capacity and the power reserve of 100 per cent of Rolex watches. These tests systematically complement the qualification testing during development and production, in order to ensure the watches’ reliability, robustness, and resistance to strong magnetic fields and to shocks.

THE OYSTER CASE, SYMBOL OF WATERPROOFNESS

The Yacht-Master’s Oyster case, 37 mm, 40 mm, or 42 mm in diameter and guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet), is a paragon of robustness and reliability. The middle case is crafted from a solid block of Oystersteel, RLX titanium or 18 ct gold. The case back, edged with fine fluting, is hermetically screwed down with a special tool that allows only certified Rolex watchmakers to access the movement. The Triplock winding crown – fitted with a triple waterproofness system – screws down securely against the case. It is protected by an integral crown guard. The crystal, with a Cyclops lens at 3 o’clock for easy reading of the date, is made of virtually scratchproof sapphire and benefits from an anti-reflective coating. The waterproof Oyster case provides optimal protection for the movement it houses.

CALIBRES 2236 AND 3235

Yacht-Master models are equipped with calibre 2236 (Yacht-Master 37) or calibre 3235 (Yacht-Master 40 and Yacht-Master 42), self-winding mechanical movements entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. Consummate demonstrations of technology, these movements carry a number of patents. They offer outstanding performance, particularly in terms of precision, power reserve, convenience and reliability.

Calibre 2236 is fitted with the patented Syloxi hairspring in silicon, manufactured by the brand. In addition to resisting strong magnetic fields, this hairspring offers great stability in the face of temperature variations as well as high resistance to shocks. Its geometry, which is also patented, ensures the movement’s regularity in any position. Calibre 2236 includes a paramagnetic nickel-phosphorus escape wheel.

Calibre 3235 incorporates the patented Chronergy escapement, made of nickel-phosphorus, which combines high energy efficiency with great dependability and is also resistant to strong magnetic fields. This movement is fitted with the blue Parachrom hairspring, manufactured by Rolex in a paramagnetic alloy. In addition to resisting strong magnetic fields, this hairspring offers great stability in the face of temperature variations as well as high resistance to shocks. It is equipped with a Rolex overcoil, ensuring the calibre’s regularity in any position.

The oscillator of these two calibres has a balance wheel with variable inertia regulated extremely precisely via gold Microstella nuts. It is held firmly in place by a height-adjustable traversing bridge enabling very stable positioning to increase shock resistance. The oscillator is also mounted on the Rolex-designed, patented high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers, further enhancing the movements’ shock resistance.

Calibre 2236 and calibre 3235 are equipped with a self-winding system via a Perpetual rotor, which ensures continuous winding of the mainspring by harnessing the movements of the wrist to provide constant energy. Calibre 2236 offers a power reserve of approximately 55 hours, while the power reserve of calibre 3235 extends to approximately 70 hours thanks to its barrel architecture and the escapement’s superior efficiency; moreover, since 2023, its oscillating weight has been fitted with an optimized ball bearing.

The Yacht-Master’s movements will be seen only by certified Rolex watchmakers, yet they are beautifully finished and decorated. Since 2023, calibre 3235 has also been marked with the words ‘Chronometer Perpetual’ and ‘Superlative Adjusted’ engraved respectively on the oscillating weight and on the bridges.

BRACELET AND CLASP: SECURE AND COMFORTABLE

The Rolesium versions (combining Oystersteel and platinum) and the Everose Rolesor versions (combining Oystersteel and Everose gold) of the Yacht-Master 37 and the Yacht-Master 40, as well as the Yacht-Master 42 in RLX titanium, are fitted on a three-piece link Oyster bracelet, equipped with the Easylink comfort extension link. This system, developed by Rolex, allows the wearer to easily increase the bracelet length by approximately 5 mm, for additional comfort in any circumstance. On the Yacht-Master 42 in RLX titanium, the bracelet includes ceramic inserts – designed by Rolex and patented – inside the links to enhance its flexibility and longevity.

The Yacht-Master 37 and Yacht-Master 40 in 18 ct Everose gold, as well as the Yacht-Master 42 in 18 ct yellow or white gold, are fitted on an Oysterflex bracelet, composed of two flexible, curved metal blades – one for each bracelet section – overmoulded with high-performance black elastomer. This Rolex-designed, patented bracelet is furnished with the Rolex Glidelock extension system, also developed by the brand and patented. On the Oysterflex bracelet, this inventive toothed mechanism has six notches of approximately 2.5 mm, allowing the bracelet length to be effortlessly adjusted up to some 15 mm.

The Oyster and Oysterflex bracelets on the Yacht Master models are equipped with an Oysterlock safety clasp, designed by Rolex and patented, which prevents accidental opening.

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Rolex Watch Model Number Guide

Air-King • Cellini • Datejust • Daytona • Explorer I & II • GMT-Master II •  Ladies Date  •  Ladies Datejust  • Ladies President  •  Ladies Yacht-Master  • Milgauss • President • Sea-Dweller • Submariner • Vintage • Yacht-Master

Rolex Watch Model Numbers

Guide to the different Rolex Watch model reference numbers that have been produced. Every year, Rolex crafts new models and each model receives a unique Rolex reference number to help identify it. Whether you are looking to figure out which watch reference number you have or which one you want, find your Rolex watch.

Daytona (Cosmograph)

From the 1960s to the 1980s, Rolex produced the Daytona / Cosmograph in two variations, however, the demand for the first (a Valjoux workhorse) brought forth the second, which came with a Zenith modified movement. Named for the famous race and speedway, perhaps the turning point for its popularity came when actor Paul Newman was seen wearing his Daytona Rolex at racing events. This model is available in stainless steel, 18 carat gold and stainless steel and 18 carat solid gold. By 2000, Rolex released a Daytona with a caliber 4130 which came with a 72 hour power reserve (model 116520). Surprisingly, the two-tone and gold variations are not the big sellers in the Daytona line up so for function and fashion with a little Newman thrown in, go for the stainless steel.

Rolex 6239, 6240, 6241, 6262, 6263, 6264, 6265, 16515, 16518, 16519, 16520, 16523, 16528, 116505, 116509, 116515, 116518, 116519, 116520, 116523, 116528, 116589, 116598, 116599

Day-Date Oysterquartz

Similar to the Datejust Oyster quartz, the Day Date Oyster quartz was launched by Rolex in 1977 in two different model variations. One model was the 19018 which came in yellow gold and the other model was the 19019 which came in white gold. Both models featured fluted bezels, sapphire crystals, and integral bracelets. The last year these watches were produced by Rolex was in 2001, again the same as when the Datejust Oyster quartz was discontinued.  These watches were in production for only 24 years and are now discontinued making them even that much more rare now!

19018, 19019

Day-Date President

The Rolex Day-Date was nicknamed the “President” after the company presented one to then-president Dwight D. Eisenhower in the 1950s. It features a calendar mechanism that displays the date and day using the self-winding Oyster movement.  It comes in Day-Date I (36mm case) and Day-Date II (42mm case) models.

1803, 1804, 1807, 6511, 6611, 18026, 18038, 18039, 18048, 18078, 18238, 18239, 18248, 18308, 18346, 18946, 18948, 18956, 18958, 19018, 118205, 118206, 118208, 118209, 118235, 118238, 118239, 118296, 118338, 118339, 118346, 118348, 118366, 118388, 118398, 118399

Datejust Turn-O-Graph (Thunderbird)

Launched in 1953, the Turn-O-Graph was designed for adventure lovers. It was discontinued in the early 1960s, then reborn as a special version of the Datejust. The modern Turn-O-Graph features a bi-directional bezel to measure elapsed time, making it the most functional and expensive watch in the Datejust line. Prior to the introduction of the Day-Date President, it was the most expensive Rolex cataloged.

1625, 6309, 16253, 16263, 16264, 16268, 116261, 116263, 116264

Datejust OysterQuartz

For a quarter-century, Rolex produced the Oysterquartz in Datejust, models 17000 (stainless steel) 17013 (steel/Yellow Gold) and 17104 (steel/White Gold). Special models of the Oysterquartz were made with jeweled dials, bezels and bracelets. Fewer than 25,000 Oysterquartz watches are believed to have been made. The last time one appeared in a Rolex catalog was 2001. It also is the last year that Rolex received chronometer certificates for the quartz movement from the COSC. The steel gold and all gold models continued to appear in the Rolex catalog until 2003, when the last of the models in stock shipped.

17000, 17013, 17014

Datejust Mid-Size

This popular line is similar to the Datejust, except that the case is 31mm, instead of 36mm. It also is distinguished by its handsomely designed dial with Roman numerals and gold time markers, and it comes in 18K gold and stainless steel or stainless steel. Other features include self-winding technology, date window, 29-jewel movement and fluted bezel. This Datejust Mid-Size can be a men’s or women’s watch.

6824, 7518, 17824, 68240, 68243, 68248, 68273, 68274, 68278, 77014, 77080, 77438, 78240, 78243, 78246, 78248, 78266, 78273, 78274, 78278, 78279, 78286, 78288, 81158, 81208, 81209, 81308, 81338, 81339, 178158, 178159, 178238, 178239, 178240, 178243, 178245, 178246, 178248, 178269, 178273, 178274, 178275, 178278, 178279, 178286, 178288, 178313, 178383

This Rolex model was first offered in 1945 and remains the best-selling Rolex watch today most likely for the many available variations. The following “Rolex Datejust models”, are listing below and some are considered to be “old Rolex models” numbers.   Along with the many different steel cases and bracelet selections, the DateJust is available in steel and yellow gold, steel and rose gold and solid gold. DateJust enthusiasts can choose from a variety of dials and diamond bezel choices. First designed with a Jubilee bracelet, today’s DateJust Rolex watches come with Oyster bands. Rare DateJust models include those with smooth bezels—most are fluted. Because of the many designs available, the DateJust is the go-to Rolex for everything from golf to the office. Additional features of the DateJust include auto winding technology Cyclops date, waterproof case and ultra-smooth 31 jewel movement. Dials sizes range from 26mm to 41mm.  Popular models include the 116138, 116200 and the 116234.

1600, 1601, 1603, 1607, 1630, 6305, 6518, 116244, 6604, 6605, 6827, 16000, 16013, 16014, 16018, 166201, 16030, 16078, 16200, 16203, 16220, 16233, 16234, 16238, 16248, 16250, 16364, 17000, 17013, 17014, 116138, 116139, 116188, 116189, 116199, 116200, 116238, 116201, 116203, 116208, 116231, 116233, 116234, 116243

Similar to the Air-King the Rolex Date debuted in the 1950s and included a date function and employed 34mm diameter faces. Today’s Date watches are available in steel only and feature an innovative design with automatic chronometer movement and a waterproof case safe up to 1000 meters. The original model line of Date watches were available in steel, 18 carat yellow and steel and 18 carat yellow gold all with fluted bezels and diamond markers making them sought after by Rolex collectors and investors. Favored models include the 1501, 15200 and the 15053.

1500, 1501, 1503, 1505, 1550, 1560, 1570, 1603, 1625, 5075, 6075, 6335, 6518, 6534, 6605, 6627, 15000, 15010, 15037, 15038, 15053, 15200, 15203, 15210, 15223, 15233, 15238, 15505, 115200, 115210, 115234

Named for the 16th century Italian goldsmith Benvenuto Cellini who provided his services to popes and kings, this fine collection of Rolex watches comes in a variety of designs and styles. Each is encased in 18K yellow gold with either quartz or manual wind movement, white or mother of pearl dial, either Arabic or Roman numerals and 18K gold bracelet or leather strap.

4112, 5241, 6673, 4113, 5330, 6692, 4223, 6110, 6693, 4233, 6621, 4243, 6623, 5116, 6628

The Air-King is considered by many to be the most affordable member of the Rolex family of watches and is known for its simplicity and balanced styling. The current models come standard with an Oyster bracelet, no date, and are 34mm in diameter.  The reference model #114200 sells retail at about $5,000 while the #114234 has a white gold bezel and has a retail price of about $6,200.  Some folks like searching Rolex models by year, or “new Rolex model numbers”, or even “Rolex Submariner models”.  Specifically designed for British Royal Air Force (RAF) pilots in the 1930s, the Air-King’s simplicity and large watch faces (32 to 34mm in diameter) were not ordinary in watch design for the time—but Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf felt large dials were essential for night flying. Given names like the Air Tiger,  Air Lion and Air Giant, only the Air-King model remains today, however, many seek out the older models based on their airmen history. Original Air-King models were hand-wound and built with the classic 10.5 ligne hunter movement until they were upgraded to the more popular Oyster Perpetual (automatic) movement. We do not provide “Rolex models by year”. Available in both gold and steel combinations, the Air-King is known in Rolex fan forums as “the watch rich in history” or the “Warrior Watch.” Rolex Air-Kings place in the entry-level category of Rolex watches as far as price, yet these models are still stunning with chronographs, 31 jewel movements and scratch resistant sapphire crystals. Simplicity and durability make the Air-King popular and functional and the waterproof cases endure in water and outdoor sporting. The most popular and sought after models include the 114200, 14010 and the 5500. To view more current Rolex models, visit www.rolex.com.

1009, 114234, 5520, 14000, 4365, 5700, 14000M, 4925, 5701, 14010, 5500, 6500, 14010M, 5501, 6552, 114200, 5506, 7784

Rolex first introduced the Explorer in 1954 and this model has remained steady in its features including a black dial with Arabic numbers, no date function and a smooth bezel. The 36mm stainless steel case in model 14270 was updated in in 2010 to the 39mm 214270 model. The idea behind the Explorer was its ability to withstand temperatures between -20C and +40C and historians tout the Explorer was made in honor of Edmund Hilary and Tenzing Norgay—the first men to reach the summit of Mt. Everest. Original models (6350 and 6150) came with bubble back 10.5 movement and a certified chronometer. With the 14270 model, the Explorer featured a new case, dial, movement and glass and finally a sapphire crystal glass. Because of the wide variations in design, collectors now seek out modern-day models such as the 214270 which come with a waterproof case, 24-hour rotating bezel, luminous 24-hour markers, and a black and sapphire dial.

1016, 1038, 5504, 6098, 6150, 6298, 6350, 6610, 14270, 114270

Explorer II

Much like the Explorer, the Rolex Explorer II had exploration in mind. It was equipped with a fourth hand that rotated once every 24 hours and designed for speleologists (cave explorers) who often had trouble differentiating between the morning and afternoon or day and night. Although the Explorer II was released in the 1970s, it didn’t become popular until the early 1990s.  Early models, the 1655 and the 1019 were the only two watches that utilized hands not used by any other Rolex model. By the early 1990s, the 1655 model came with sapphire glass and also allowed the owner to set the hour hand backwards or forward in one hour jumps. The 16570 models are the most popular today and feature 31 jewel movement; auto wind technology, Rolex Quickset, scratch resistance sapphire crystal, a waterproof stainless steel case and black dial with luminous time markers. Because of the many model changes and although the idea of durability of the Explorer II has never changed, model prices vary based on the release date, degree of rarity and feature set.

11655, 16556, 16570, 216570

From the 1950s to the 1970s, Rolex and their GMT-Master and GMT Master II timepieces were something to be seen and owned. The GMT-Master boasted a variety of dial colors and bracelet types making it the Rolex for the fashion and function. Great in depths up to 30 meters, the GMT-Masters model line also featured 31 jewel movement, waterproof case and Rolex Quickset. These watches were popular based on their ability to use a second hour hand to indicate a second time zone in the original model and by the 1970s, the GMT-Master II allowed for easy adjustment of a second hour hand with the crown in position two. There are all-black dial steel models and other models come with black, red/black or red/blue dials—the most popular bracelet is the Jubilee for all GMT-Master Rolex watches. Hot today is the GMT-Master II model 116710 with a maxi-case, 3186 caliber movement and ceramic bezel. Because GMT-Master Rolex watches increase in value, they are very collectible.

1675, 6542, 16700, 16713, 16750, 16753, 16758, 16170, 16710, 16718, 16760, 116710, 116713, 116718, 116758

Scientific accuracy was the ideology behind the Milgauss Rolex watch. This scientific need most likely came from its release in 1956 to scientists working near high levels of magnetic energy which made their watches lose precision. The Milgauss 116400 features a waterproof 40mm stainless steel case with a smooth bezel and black dial and stunning white and orange luminous hour markers.  In 2008 Rolex released a Milgauss Green Crystal anniversary edition, the 116400 GV which can withstand magnetic fields up to 1,000 gauss.  While variations over the years vary little, the Milgauss remains supreme and a favorite of those in the science field or the up and coming for its function and durability.

1019, 6451, 116400, 116400V

Masterpiece

Rolex Masterpiece watches come in different colors but the standard colors are blue, white and silver. The most important feature of the Rolex Masterpiece watches is its dial styles that are Index, Roman or Arabic. The Rolex Masterpiece watch also boasts automatic winding movements. Generally, these watches are made up of stainless steel and gold or polished with diamond, mother of pearl, ruby and precious gems.

18946, 18948, 69298, 69299, 80298, 80299, 80309, 80318, 80319, 80328, 80359, 81318

Ladies Oyster Perpetual

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust Ladies Watch features an automatic Swiss movement. The dial features date magnified at three o’clock position. The 18K Yellow Gold Case is attached on an 18K Yellow Gold bracelet which securely locks with a fold over hidden closure and Rolex logo. It has a 26mm case and automatic movement.

6718, 6719, 6723, 6724, 67180, 67193, 67194, 67197, 67198, 67230, 67243, 76030, 76080, 76094, 76180, 76183, 76188, 76193, 76198, 76243, 77518, 79193, 176200, 176210, 761833

Ladies Datejust

The Lady-Datejust offers opulent choices of bracelet bands and bezels of yellow gold, white gold, platinum or dazzling dual tone. Each watch includes a 32-jewel precision (real diamonds, rubies, emeralds and sapphires) movement and faces bedazzled in a constellation of genuine diamonds. Each piece is painstakingly crafted with the best of materials for a watch that will last for years to come. The automatic movement keeps accurate time, date and second hand movement. The buyer also has different choices in face color (such as sapphire blue and salmon) and number font.

6517, 6916, 6917, 6927, 69136, 69160, 69163, 69173, 69174, 69178, 69179, 69190, 69278, 79068, 79078, 79079, 79088, 79089, 79126, 79136, 79138, 79158, 79159, 79163, 79166, 79168, 79173, 79174, 79178, 79179, 79238, 79288, 80298, 80299, 80309, 80318, 80319, 80238, 80239, 80359, 179136, 179138, 179158, 179159, 179160, 179161, 179163, 179165, 179166, 179168, 179171, 179173, 179174, 179175, 179178, 179179, 179239, 179298, 179313, 179368, 179459

Ladies Date

Introduced in the late 1970s, the GMT-Master II like its predecessor 20 years earlier, utilizes a second hour hand to indicate a second time zone. It comes with a simple rotating 24-hour bezel so it is easy to tell the time in any time zone. It also allows the user to easily adjust the second hour hand with the crown in position 2. The steel models are only offered with black dials. The bezels are available in black, red/black and red/blue. GMTIIs typically come with a Jubilee bracelet.

6516, 6517, 6519, 6916, 6917, 6919, 69160, 69163, 69173, 69174, 69190, 69240, 79160, 79190, 79240

Oyster Perpetual

Similar to the Air-King 34mm model, the Oyster Perpetual (No Date) perplexed many as all Rolex timepieces are also Oyster Perpetual. The energy and popularity behind this model comes from the varied dial options, however, today’s Oyster Perpetual (No Date) Rolex watches are available in steel or steel with a white gold bezel.  Popular sizes range from the 26mm ladies to the 34mm—there is also a 31mm mid-size version of the Oyster Perpetual.

1002, 1003, 1004, 1005, 1006, 1007, 1008, 1010, 1014, 1018, 1023, 1024, 1025, 1030, 1038, 1500, 1501, 1565, 5500, 6085, 6103, 6177, 6202, 6284, 6518, 6532, 6546, 6548, 6549, 6551, 6552, 6556, 6564, 6565, 6567, 6569, 6580, 6582, 6584, 6590, 6605, 6623, 6634, 14203, 14208, 14238, 14203M, 14208M, 14233M

Submariner Date

Launched in 1953, the Submariner was the first Rolex guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 200 meters (660 feet). The Oyster Perpetual kept time for the likes of Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay on their successful quest to the top of Mount Everest that same year. Since then, these watches have become known as the watches of achievers. The Submariner comes only on an Oyster bracelet and has a 40mm case. The steel model is only available with a black dial, and is one of the most recognizable Rolexes. Anniversary editions with green bezels can occasionally be found. The Submariner has the common single direction rotating diving bezel with minute markers for the first 15 minutes. The original models—those made until 1956—are often considered “James Bond” models and have some easily recognizable differences. Notably, they have a smaller crown, no crown guard, and the bezel only had minute markers every five minutes. In 1982, the model 16800 was introduced. It sported the new sapphire crystal and quickset function. In 1989, the 16610 was introduced with an improved movement and a more secure bezel.  The 116610 was introduced in 2010 with a ceramic (Cerachrom) bezel and improved Glidelock buckle. The Submariner is one the most popular models and comes in a variety of styles.

1680, 16610, 16613, 16618, 16800, 16803, 16808, 116610, 116613, 116618, 116619

Production began on the Rolex Submariner in 1954 and this model is only available with an Oyster bracelet with a 40mm case. Perhaps the most recognizable Rolex today based on its black dial, over the years Rolex has released many anniversary editions—some even with green bezels. The single direction rotating diving bezel is part of its essences and many consider the Submariner to be the “James Bond” Rolex watch. The late 1970s and late 1980s models offered the Rolex Quickset function and sapphire crystals in models 16800 and 16610, respectively. By 2010, model 116610 came with a ceramic bezel and locking buckle. Variations of the Submariner include the steel (no date), steel (with date) and yellow and white gold. An 18 carat gold and steel model is also available and if diamonds delight you, they are only available in the gold models. The Submariner may forever be known as the “ever-changing” Rolex watch with the vast array of available models.

5508, 5512, 5513, 5514, 5517, 6200, 6204, 6205, 6536, 6538, 14060, 114060, 14060M

Sea-Dweller

For deep sea divers, the Sea Dweller Rolex watch was introduced in 1978 and sadly, discontinued in 2008. Part of the reason to discontinue this Rolex model was perhaps its similarity to the Submariner except the steel case was heavier and it came with a durable crystal with no Cyclops eye. A helium escape valve was only useful for deep sea divers and Rolex actually named one model, the Rolex Submariner 2000 Sea Dweller, but later dropped the Submariner 2000 from its name in 1973. The 16660 Sea Dwellers remain a diver favorite and include auto winding technology, 31 jewel movement, rugged stainless steel case and of course the desired helium escape valve. The face is oversized for easy viewing in underwater conditions and its stainless steel Oyster bracelet with secure flip-lock clasp makes it possible for this Rolex watch to withstand depths of 4000 feet or 1220 meters. The discontinuation of the Sea Dweller makes it quite collectible and rare.

1665, 16600, 16660, 116660

Yacht-Master

In 1992, Rolex released the Yacht-Master in both men and women’s styles and popular models include the 16622, 168622, 16623 and the 68623. Dials are available in full or mid-size and the Yacht-Master is available in stainless steel and gold and perhaps the most desired—platinum! The first model used the caliber 3135 movement much like the Submariner and Sea-Dweller and Rolex Yacht-Master watches are fitted with a triplock crown. Not made for watersports (resistant only to 100 meters), these watches shout flair and fashion. The 40mm version is often referred to as the Jumbo Yacht-Master. A favorite among celebrities, the Yacht-Master, a relatively new watch to the Rolex line up continues to grow up and get noticed.

16622, 16623, 16628, 18622, 68623, 68628, 69623, 69628, 116688, 116689, 166233, 168622, 168623, 168628, 169622, 169623, 169628

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.css-1c7en8u{font-size:clamp(1.375rem, 1.25rem + 0.3125vw, 3.125rem);line-height:1.1;margin-bottom:1rem;} Yacht-Master 42 .css-1g7r01k{font-weight:300;font-size:clamp(0.875rem, 0.9375rem + 0.1563vw, 1.25rem);line-height:1.2;text-wrap:balance;}.css-1g7r01k span{display:block;} Oyster, 42 mm, white gold Reference 226659

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Staying on course

The Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 42 in 18 ct white gold with a black dial and an Oysterflex bracelet.

The oysterflex bracelet, highly resistant and durable.

The Yacht-Master’s new Oysterflex bracelet, developed by Rolex and patented, offers a sporty alternative to metal bracelets. The bracelet attaches to the watch case and the Oysterlock safety clasp by a flexible titanium and nickel alloy metal blade.

The blade is overmoulded with high-performance black elastomer which is particularly resistant to environmental effects, very durable and perfectly inert for the wearer of the watch. For enhanced comfort, the inside of the Oysterflex bracelet is equipped with a patented longitudinal cushion system that stabilizes the watch on the wrist and fitted with an 18 ct white gold Oysterlock safety clasp. It also features the Rolex Glidelock extension system, designed by the brand and patented. This inventive toothed mechanism, integrated beneath the clasp, allows fine adjustment of the bracelet length by some 15 mm in increments of approximately 2.5 mm, without the use of tools.

18 ct white gold

Commitment to excellence

By operating its own exclusive foundry, Rolex has the unrivalled ability to cast the highest quality 18 ct gold alloys. According to the proportion of silver, copper, platinum or palladium added, different types of 18 ct gold are obtained: yellow, pink or white.

They are made with only the purest metals and meticulously inspected in an in-house laboratory with state-of-the-art equipment, before the gold is formed and shaped with the same painstaking attention to quality. Rolex's commitment to excellence begins at the source.

Bidirectional Rotatable Bezel

Timing the distance.

The Yacht-Master’s bidirectional rotatable 60-minute graduated bezel is made entirely from precious metals or fitted with a Cerachrom insert in high-tech ceramic. The raised polished numerals and graduations stand out clearly against a matt, sand-blasted background.

This functional bezel – which allows the wearer to calculate, for example, the sailing time between two buoys – is also a key component in the model’s distinctive visual identity.

Exceptional legibility

Like all Rolex Professional watches, the Yacht-Master 42 offers exceptional legibility in all circumstances, and especially in the dark, thanks to its Chromalight display.

The broad hands and hour markers in simple shapes – triangles, circles, rectangles – are filled with a luminescent material emitting a long-lasting glow.

More Yacht-Master technical details

Reference   226659

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Oyster, 42 mm, white gold

Oyster architecture

Monobloc middle case, screw-down case back and winding crown

Bidirectional rotatable 60-minute graduated bezel with matt black Cerachrom insert in ceramic, polished raised numerals and graduations

Winding crown

Screw-down, Triplock triple waterproofness system

Scratch-resistant sapphire, Cyclops lens over the date

Water resistance

Waterproof to 100 metres / 330 feet

Perpetual, mechanical, self-winding

3235, Manufacture Rolex

-2/+2 sec/day, after casing

Centre hour, minute and seconds hands. Instantaneous date with rapid setting. Stop-seconds for precise time setting

Paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring. High-performance Paraflex shock absorbers

Bidirectional self-winding via Perpetual rotor

Power reserve

Approximately 70 hours

Flexible metal blades overmoulded with high-performance elastomer

Folding Oysterlock safety clasp with Rolex Glidelock extension system

Highly legible Chromalight display with long-lasting blue luminescence

Certification

Superlative Chronometer (COSC + Rolex certification after casing)

Learn how to set the time and other functions of your Rolex watch by consulting our user guides.

Yacht-Master 42

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• Rolex Yacht-Master History

The Yacht-Master was not the first of Rolex’s watches to be designed with sea adventurers in mind. However, rather than focusing on the usability of the watch as a tool, as they did with the Submariner, Rolex seems to have set out to create a tool for boating, while focusing on the luxury and aesthetic look of the watch.

When the Yacht-Master was first introduced in 1992, it seemed to capitalize on the success of Rolex’s first nautical inspired watch, the Submariner. The original Yacht-Master may have been a redesign of the Submariner, though it looks like early Rolex Daytona models. There were many changes, including the size, which was slightly bigger than the Dayton’s 36mm, at 39.5mm. Other changes included an etched bezel insert that was permanently soldered to the bezel, larger hands and maxi-markers, and smooth, rounded edges.

Though it was created in the 1960’s, it was not initially released. Some think that Rolex thought the changes to the Submariner were too drastic, thus created an entirely new model: the Yacht-Master. Rolex originally introduced the new Yacht-Master in 1992 with Reference 16628. As with all Rolex watched, the Yacht-Master focused on strength and durability, thus it had a triple-lock crown and resisted water up to 100 meters (330 feet). While maintaining strength and durability, the watch also features luxurious materials and design, as has come to be expected from Rolex. Made from 18kt gold, the watch is topped with a white dial and is 40mm in size. Inside, the watch features a 3135 movement, which is the same movement used in the Rolex Submariner. With its gold features and impeccable style, the Yacht-Master was initially intended as a more luxurious version of the Submariner.

In 1994, Rolex introduced a 35mm mid-sized edition of the Yacht-Master with Reference 69628. This particular reference was geared toward the Asian market, or more specifically for men with smaller wrists. That same year Rolex introduced the women's 29mm version of the Yacht-Master with Reference 69628. Continuing to improve the model, Rolex also issued a new version of the 40mm men’s Yacht-Master in 1994 as well. The 18K gold watch features a beautiful blue sunray dial. Again, in 1999, Rolex improved upon the Yacht-Master design, introduction a stainless steel version of the 40mm at the Basel Fair. This mix of steel and platinum has been termed Rolesium. A unique feature of this reference is its platinum dial. This version was also the first modern Yacht-Master to bring back the timeless maxi-markers and larger hands of the original. The rare and expensive materials, size, and precision design make the Yacht-Master one of Rolex’s most luxurious watches.

Over the next few years and on into the 2000s, Rolex continued to improve upon the design. Aesthetically, some versions of the Yacht-Master pushed the limits of luxury, adding a beautiful mother of pearl dial, as well as two-tone metal versions, mixing steel and gold.

In 2012,  Rolex information was released about a new version of the stainless steel and platinum Yacht-Master, adding a stunning cobalt blue sunray dial. Some had complained about the “overuse” of the similar looking stainless steel and platinum, which some believe made the watch too monochrome. Rolex remedied this with the 2012 introduction, breaking up the platinum and stainless steel with a lovely pop of color.

The latest in the Yacht-Master line is Reference 116622. The sleek and sporty Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master is meant to epitomize the tie between Rolex and sailing. For variety, Rolex offers it in three sizes: 40mm, 35mm and 29mm. The mother-of-pearl blue dials continue to add a beautiful pop of color to the sleek and modern stainless steel and platinum combination. Large hour markers and broad hands, in combination with the raised and polished numerals and graduations which clearly stand out against the contrasting matt of the dial, make the watch easily readable. Made of 18K yellow gold of 950 platinum, the Yacht-Master’s bidirectional rotatable, 60-minute graduated bezel allows the wearer to calculate sailing time.

To ensure safety, especially on the water, Rolex ensures waterproofness in their design up to 300 meters (1,000 feet). Utilizing Rolex’s Triplock winding crown, the watch is specially designed to resist water pressure, as the winding crown screws down against the Oyster case as tightly and completely as an oyster’s shell. First invented by Rolex in 1926, the Oyster case and waterproof features continue to be used to this day. Another safety feature added by Rolex is the Oyster bracelet. As the link between the wearer and the watch, the Oyster bracelet has been designed to not only be aesthetically pleasing and comfortable, but also strong and innovative. Featuring a special clasp designed to prevent accidental opening, the Oyster bracelet is not only aesthetic pleasing but safe and strong, giving the wearer a peace of mind.

Inside, the new Yacht-Master features many important innovations, including the blue Parachrom hairspring. One of the most important components of a watch is its oscillator. Conventional oscillator hairsprings are made of ferromagnetic alloys, leaving them vulnerable to magnetic fields, temperature variations, and shocks (i.e. the watch is dropped), that interfere with their precision. To combat these issues, Rolex created the blue Parachrom hairspring. Finer than a human hair, the Parachrom hairspring is crafted from a highly stable paramagnetic alloy that includes niobium and zirconium. Unaffected by magnetic fields, it is up to 10 times more resistant to shocks. The Yacht-Master is also equipped with caliber 3135, a self-winding mechanical movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex and certified as an official Swiss chronometer.

Rarely does Rolex introduce a completely new model. In its long history, one of the last new models to be introduced was the Rolex Daytona, in 1964. 28 years later in 1992, another new model was released carrying the name Yacht-Master. This new design was the second Rolex watch, after the Submariner, to be developed around the Nautical theme. The latest new model, the Sky-Dweller, was introduced in 2012. Thus, historically Rolex makes new references, or versions, of models often, but it seems to take at least 20 years for Rolex to release a completely new model. However, when new models, like the Yacht-Master, are released, it is soon clear that their look, feel, and features were worth the wait.