bavaria yacht windows

Bavaria Yacht Info

• Bavaria Yacht Info »
• Member Forums »
• Bavaria Yacht Help! »
• replacement of framless hinged windows

Author Topic: replacement of framless hinged windows  (Read 2619 times)

• Karma: +0/-0
• Boat Model: bavaria 41
• Boat Year: 2003

dawntreader

• Boat Model: Bavaria37
• Boat Year: 2006

Re: replacement of framless hinged windows

• Karma: +9/-4
• 2014 Cruiser 37
• Boat Model: Cruiser 37
• Boat Year: 2014

Does it look like this one?

• Boat Model: Bavaria 38
• SMF 2.0.19 | SMF © 2017 , Simple Machines

• Sailing Yachts
• Our Services

Clear lines and clearly very different.

Maurizio Cossutti and his team masterminded the design of the BAVARIA C45. They created something truly unique – an elongated hull with three big windows, a long window strip, a narrow looking superstructure – in short: a silhouette in the style of a superyacht.

This yacht sets a completely new, fresh tone in the 45‐foot sailing yacht segment.

MORE INFORMATION ABOUT THE C45

On the official bavaria yachts website.

• New Sailboats
• Sailboats 21-30ft
• Sailboats 31-35ft
• Sailboats 36-40ft
• Sailboats Over 40ft
• Sailboats Under 21feet
• used_sailboats
• Apps and Computer Programs
• Communications
• Fishfinders
• Handheld Electronics
• Plotters MFDS Rradar
• Wind, Speed & Depth Instruments
• Anchoring Mooring
• Running Rigging
• Sails Canvas
• Standing Rigging
• Diesel Engines
• Off Grid Energy
• Cleaning Waxing
• DIY Projects
• Repair, Tools & Materials
• Spare Parts
• Tools & Gadgets
• Cabin Comfort
• Ventilation
• Footwear Apparel
• Foul Weather Gear
• Mailport & PS Advisor
• Inside Practical Sailor Blog
• Activate My Web Access
• Reset Password
• Customer Service

• Free Newsletter

C&C 40 Used Boat Review

What You Can Learn on a Quick Test Sail

Cabo Rico’s Classic Cutter

Bob Perrys Salty Tayana 37-Footer Boat Review

Preparing Yourself for Solo Sailing

Your New Feature-Packed VHF Radio

Preparing A Boat to Sail Solo

Solar Panels: Go Rigid If You have the Space…

Shoe Goo II Excels for Quick Sail Repairs

When Should We Retire Dyneema Stays and Running Rigging?

Rethinking MOB Prevention

Top-notch Wind Indicators

Worship Your Universal M-Series Diesel With the Marinized Kubota Block

Taking Care of Your 12-Volt Lead-Acid Battery Bank

Hassle-free Pumpouts

What Your Boat and the Baltimore Super Container Ship May Have…

Battle of the Teak Cleaners — Snappy Teak-Nu vs. Star Brite

New Seacocks for the Offshore Sailor

Bottom Paint Care

Quick and Safe Sail Cleaning

Are E-bikes Worth the Extra Weight and Cost?

How to Handle the Head

The Day Sailor’s First-Aid Kit

How to Select Crew for a Passage or Delivery

Re-sealing the Seams on Waterproof Fabrics

Waxing and Polishing Your Boat

Reducing Engine Room Noise

Tricks and Tips to Forming Do-it-yourself Rigging Terminals

Marine Toilet Maintenance Tips

Learning to Live with Plastic Boat Bits

• Sailboat Reviews

Bavaria 38 Ocean

This german-built production cruiser has first-class construction and is favorably priced. for serious cruising, however, she does have a few drawbacks such as a small galley and marginal sea berths..

In our travels to the boat shows, we’ve noticed an increased number of German and Scandinavian boats distributed in the U.S. by American dealerships. Part of the reason, certainly, is favorable exchange rates. To get a feel for how these boats stack up to their American and French counterparts, we decided to test sail the German-built Bavaria 38 Ocean. In a nutshell, it’s a well-built, comfortable cruiser with a small sailplan that may be well suited to offshore passage-making, but will not be exactly spirited in light air.

The Company Bavaria Yachts is a family-owned operation that began as the manufacturer of glass windows. Today, it produces boats in a new, modern plant in Giebelstadt, Germany. The firm evolved into the boatbuilding business in 1970’s, and currently produces approximately 450 boats per year, ranging in size from 29′ to 50′. Bavaria builds several distinct lines. Heavy emphasis is placed on the Holiday series, multi-cabin cruisers destined for the charter fleets in the Mediterranean. The Exclusive line consists of traditional aft cockpit sloops with fewer sleeping compartments, and a large master stateroom. The 38 Ocean features a center-cockpit intended for family cruising. The first boats imported to North America began arriving in 1995, and are in service in a charter fleet in the Pacific Northwest.

Though the company may not have the decades-old pedigree of some competitors, it enjoys among Europeans a reputation as the builder of sturdy, seaworthy boats. Bavaria funds the cost of two Lloyd’s inspectors who are permanently on site to inspect each boat as it works its way through the production line. Consequently, boats aren’t simply “built to Lloyd’s specifications,” but are issued a Germanischer Lloyd A5 certificate that covers hull, rig, engine, electrical system and locking devices.

Design Bavaria yachts are designed by the J and J design office, a relatively obscure firm founded by brothers Jernej and Japec Jakopin in 1983. Their first yacht, the Elan 31, was an immediate success, winning the 3/4 Ton world championships; more than 700 were produced. The firm subsequently formed a boat engineering company, Seaway, that offers marketing, design, tooling and prototyping services.

J and J works with more than 20 production yards in Europe, and has designed boats for Jeanneau, Bavaria, and Dufour, in collaboration with Bruce Farr, Doug Peterson and the Jeanneau design team. Three designs received Boat of the Year awards at the 1997 Dusseldorf boat show.

The pleasing lines of the Holiday and Exclusive models are similar in appearance to many Baltic, Swan, Wauquiez and Swedish Yachts.

The Ocean 38 Ocean, because it is a center-cockpit design, presents a different look. Its beam is considerable (13′ 2″), which gives us some concern regarding inverse stability and upwind performance. On the other hand, it makes for a large interior and increases initial stability.

The displacement/length (D/L) ratio is 217, and the sail area/displacement (SA/D) ratio is 17.8, numbers that are reasonable for most coastal cruising conditions. The D/L is a bit low for what most people would consider suitable for blue-water cruising.

The whale’s tail fin keel and spade rudder represent current thinking to improve lift and control. The boat is available with either 5′ 1″ or 6′ 5″ draft.

We think that one of the major drawbacks of a center cockpit arrangement is the height above the water, which can translate to mal de mer in heavy seas when the boat pitches and rolls; the tradeoff is a drier ride, even when pounding to weather, as we learned on a trip from San Francisco to Hawaii.

Construction The firm boasts that most of its employees have been working for Bavaria for more than 10 years, most having come through its formal apprenticeship program. A video we reviewed showed the operation to be highly efficient. Wood is brought into the wood shop as logs and milled; workers in the lay-up process are presented with shopping carts filled with numbered sheets of fiberglass that have been precut to specific sizes by a computer, and premixed containers of resin, so there is no deviation in the lay-up.

The downside to this rigid approach is that no customizing is possible. As Henry Ford said, “You can have any color you want as long as it’s black.”

The lay-up methods are fairly straightforward. The outer skin is powder-bonded glass mat and isopthalic resins. The hull below the waterline is solid fiberglass laid up to a thickness of 32 mm with alternating layers of 15-ounce and 20-ounce Verotex woven roving. The forward section of the hull, from the bow aft to the first bulkhead, is reinforced with a 2-mm thick layer of Kevlar. Additional strength is provided by double layers of fiberglass extending 12″ to either side of the centerline from the bow to the rudderpost, and a double lamination on the keel flange, a Lloyd’s requirement.

The hull is additionally strengthened by solid fiberglass stringers, and beams running athwartships that are bonded to the hull with S-glass. The engine bed is also laminated to the hull, and an aluminum engine bracket is glassed to its timbers so that engine bolts are lagged through the metal piece to the bed.

All of the interior bulkheads, as well as cabinetry and closets, are bonded to the hull before the deck is laid on. Areas around hatches are reinforced with marine-grade plywood.

A company video shows the boat sailing at full speed into a seawall. After the third collision, the boat is hauled, revealing only scrape marks in the bottom paint.

The hull above the waterline as well as the deck are cored with 15-mm Divinycell to provide strength, warmth, and a noise barrier.

The method of attaching deck hardware is unique. Winches and cleats are mounted to 3/4″ thick aluminum backing plates bonded into the deck.

Deck Layout Because the boat is targeted for cruisers who are more likely to hoist a reacher or drifter than a spinnaker, the deck arrangement is rather simple. In fact, there are only four winches. The primary sheet winches are Harken 44 self-tailers, and on the coachroof, to handle halyards, reefing and furling lines there are two Harken 40’s aft of Rutgerson rope clutches. Track for the jib cars is located at the base of the deckhouse and is equipped with Rutgerson cars, as is the mainsheet, which is located at the aft end of the cockpit.

Though there’s adequate room in the cockpit to seat six passengers, and enough length for a 6-footer to stretch out for a nap, we discovered that the steering pedestal can inhibit crew work. The helmsman will find the mainsheet, which is located on the aft coaming of the cockpit, and both jib winches, to be within close reach from the normal steering position. However, because jib winches are well aft, crew will soon discover that moving from windward to leeward will require navigating forward around the front of the pedestal on tacks, or aft of the cockpit. Our test boat was equipped with a storm dodger that extended aft from the five-piece windshield. This arrangement kept us out of the wind on a cold winter day. When tacking, however, we found it difficult to make the trip across the boat in the space between the dodger and front of the pedestal.

With 16″ of pathway between the teak toerail and the cabin trunk, movement fore and aft is easy; additionally, boats are equipped with double lifelines, stainless steel stanchions, a bow pulpit and pulpits on each corner of the stern. So, with the addition of jacklines, a crew can operate in relative safety, even at night. The boat is a 9/10 fractional rig, which we think performs more like a typical masthead rig. The mast is a tapered, double spreader Selden spar supported by 3/8″ wire standing rigging. Standard equipment includes a Furlex headsail furler, hard vang, topping lift, and hand-cranked backstay adjuster. The sail inventory consists of a 5.7-ounce Dacron Elvstrom mainsail with car sliding system and two reef points. Buyers can opt for a conventional, fully-battened main, or an in-mast furling mainsail at no additional cost. Selection of the furling mainsail reduces the size of the mainsail by 75 square feet, and the ability to shape the sail.

Stowage on the deck is in several large areas. The bow area has a chain locker large enough for an electric winch, as well as 100′ of 3/8″ chain, and rope. The stainless steel double roller, which houses a 44-lb. CQR anchor, is designed to can’tilever downwards when the anchor is lowered. This simplifies the task while avoiding damage to the gelcoat. A second stowage area aft of the locker is large enough for dock lines and fenders, and the windlass motor.

Stowage to starboard in the stern is designated for fire extinguishers; to port is a locker for propane tanks. European boats are typically plumbed for butane, so the aft compartment of boats headed for North America must be modified to provide space for propane tanks, since sizes and shapes are dramatically different. The compartment is properly vented overboard.

The stern is clearly designed for the casual cruiser. It houses a two-step swim platform equipped with a stainless steel ladder hinged to go in the water, and a freshwater shower. The emergency rudder mounts outboard on the platform. Long-distance cruisers will be challenged by the engineering necessary to mount a mechanical wind vane.

Belowdecks The generous beam of the Bavaria 38 Ocean provides large, comfortable spaces in which to lounge and sleep. The workmanship is of a quality found in boats costing considerably more.

The layout of the saloon is fairly typical, with the galley and the engine compartment beneath the companionway. A folding dining table and 6′ 6″ settee are located to port. A similarly sized settee is to starboard, forward of the nav station. The head, with doors from the saloon or the skipper’s stateroom, is to starboard.

The boat is particularly well ventilated by four deck hatches, three forward and one in the aft stateroom, and four opening ports on each side of the deckhouse. We found the boat to be well lighted, even on a cloudy, rainy day.

The master stateroom spans the stern and has a 6′ long, 5′ 6″ wide berth in the center of a compartment having 6′ feet of headroom that is surrounded by finely finished mahogany closets and cabinetry, and heavy, 3″ cushions. Because boats seem to shrink in size in proportion to the number of people aboard, we liked the fact that both staterooms have sitting areas that, albeit small, provide some private space.

The head, which is subdivided by a plastic curtain, is equipped with a single stainless sink, hot and cold water, and a medicine cabinet. The shower area has 6′ of headroom and 30″ of elbow room.

The V-berth measures 6′ 4″ on the centerline, and is 6′ wide at the head, tapering to 18″ at the bow. Cabinetry includes a 43″ tall hanging locker to starboard and a similarly sized cabinet with three shelves to port.

About the only drawbacks we noted were the lack of a good, tight sea berth or two, and the size of working space available in the navigation station and galley, which oppose each other amidships near the companionway. But while one might wish them larger, the space would have to be subtracted from the dining area and head. One must remember that despite its great beam, this boat is still just 38′ LOA. The working surface on the nav station is only 22″ deep and 38″ wide. The galley runs fore and aft, and is equipped with a double stainless steel sink, two burner stove, and an L-shaped countertop. There’s adequate working space on the 24″ x 66″ countertop when the stove is covered. However, when the stove is in use, 24″ of countertop are lost, so the cook may have to use the dining table for preparations.

The boat’s mechanical systems are well-conceived and executed.

The engine compartment is accessible by removing the companionway steps, and via a removable panel in the galley. This permits one to work on all four sides of the engine. The Whitlock cable steering system is directly overhead and easy to inspect or service.

Wiring and plumbing are accessible by removing wooden panels in the back of stowage compartments. We found all wiring to be bundled and wrapped every 6″, which reduces the possibility of chafe. Through-hulls are bronze with stainless steel ball valves, and all hoses and manifolds are accessible and double clamped. Though the headliner is not removable, deck hardware fasteners can be inspected by removing mahogany covers attached to the overhead.

Performance We tested the boat on a rainy day on flat water in wind speeds ranging from 15-22 knots. Whether you like the looks of the five-section permanent windshield is a personal matter, but it certainly affords superior protection from the weather and is easy to see through. The center section opens to provide ventilation. There certainly is a trend amongst cruisers toward hard dodgers or at least hard-top dodgers, and a permanent windscreen is a good foundation from which to design an all-weather enclosure.

Under power, the 50-hp. Volvo Penta, equipped with a fixed, 3-blade prop, powered the boat into 10 knots of wind at 7 knots at 2,500 rpm. We noticed that at 2,100 rpm the noise level belowdecks allowed conversation at normal voice levels; at 2,500 rpm engine noise was more noticeable.

The saildrive has pros and cons. Its horizontal thrust is efficient, but the aluminum housing is vulnerable to corrosion, particularly from stray AC currents in marinas. Owners should monitor the unit carefully. The Wauquiez Pretorien 35 reviewed last month also has a saildrive, and owners were cautioned to regularly replace the zincs and to dive on it for a visual inspection every 90 days.

The boat proved responsive to the helm, and easily turned a tight 360°. She also tracked well in reverse, even in gusty conditions.

Our test boat had both furling main and jib, which will simplify sailhandling for cruising couples. The furling main looked disproportionately small for this size boat. We also learned rather quickly the importance of fully hoisting the main; if there’s a scallop at the tack, the sail will not furl into the mast.

We began the test sail with a full main and 150% genoa and discovered very quickly that we were overcanvassed. We shortened the jib to about 90% and in this configuration we sailed comfortably to within 40° of the apparent wind at just less than 6 knots. The boat tracked well. Because the jib sheeting angle is 16°, it is unlikely the boat will sail closer to the wind. Speed increased to 7.5 knots when we footed off and sailed at 85°, but she became less stable so we further reduced the headsail. She proved more manageable at 120°.

We suspect that owners will be motoring until wind speed reaches 6-8 knots, and using the 150% genoa until wind speed reaches 10 knots. In stiffer breezes, she’ll need a shortened headsail or reef in the main. However, with a properly balanced sailplan, we think most cruisers will find the boat manageable and comfortable.

Sailors in gusty conditions, such as San Francisco Bay, will find a sail inventory consisting of main and genoa to be adequate; the need for a light air drifter or reacher will become apparent where winds are lighter.

Conclusion We think the Bavaria is an exceptionally well-built boat. She’s finely finished; gelcoat surfaces are smooth; and joinerwork is of the highest quality. Crew and guests will find accommodations below to be spacious and well-appointed.

The Bavaria 38 Ocean comes well-equipped with brand-name hardware, Par head, Espar forced-air heater, and a Coolmatic 12-volt refrigeration system that fared poorly in our December 1, 1996 test. Though securing foreign replacement parts can be a headache, the North American distributor maintains a modest inventory of post-1992 parts for all Bavaria yachts.

The boat comes with an extensive list of standard equipment such as teak cockpit seating and sole, ICOM VHF radio, Autohelm ST 50 instruments, dodger, windlass and anchor with 165′ of chain.

Given current exchange rates and a sailaway price of $189,900 (US), fob Seattle, or $182,990 (US), fob Annapolis, we think the boat is a very good value. For comparison, the somewhat larger Jeanneau 40 Deck Saloon 40 lists at $190,000 and the superb but somewhat smaller Halberg Rassy 36 at a bit under $200,000. A more run-of-the-mill production boat, such as the Beneteau Oceanis 381, starts at $138,000.

Contact- Yacht Sales West, Unit B, 2144 Westlake Ave. N, Seattle, WA, 98109; 206/378-0081. In Canada, Yacht Sales West, 1523 Foreshore Walk, Vancouver, BC, Canada; 604/488-1202.

RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR

Leave a reply cancel reply.

Log in to leave a comment

Latest Videos

Monitor Your Whole Boat From Home On A Mobile App

Beneteau 423: What You Should Know | Boat Review

Buying A Sailboat Is Scary! Yacht Broker Interview

The Great Loop – The Basics

• Privacy Policy
• Do Not Sell My Personal Information
• Online Account Activation
• Privacy Manager

• Sailing Yachts
• Motor Boats

BAVARIA C50

Perfect view of the sails, the course and all the fun., beauty and performance..

With family or with friends – the BAVARIA C50 is about the pleasure of sailing, but it’s about relaxation too. Together you can enjoy a fabulous time on water or on land, and with a lot of people. That’s because, as well as a three, four and five‐cabin version there is even a six‐cabin version available. The C50 comes in two different equipment levels: ’Holiday’ and ’Style’.

The new wow in this class.

Our aim was to make the BAVARIA C50 nothing less than a new benchmark in the 50‐foot yacht category. We’re sure we succeeded with its elegant, flat hull line and stunningly dynamic silhouette. The walk‐on deck is free of edges and steps, the hatches recessed into the deck provide optimum lighting and ventilation. Everything is clear and minimalist, reflecting our understanding of good, modern yacht design.

MORE INFORMATION ABOUT THE C50

On the official bavaria yachts website.

Yachting Monthly

• Digital edition

How to repair yacht hatches and windows

• Duncan Kent
• June 8, 2023

Leaky yacht hatches and windows can make life down below miserable. Duncan Kent explains how to ditch those drippy blues forever

Every boat I have ever owned has had at least one leaking window or hatch at some point and, from experience, no amount of temporary bodging has ever succeeded in fixing it for longer than a few days. In the end, the only way is to do it properly. Despite taking longer, there’s nothing better than knowing you’re leak-free when the skies open or a huge greenie comes rolling down the sidedeck.

Yacht window repairs

Scraping and back-filling will only last a short while, especially when the old sealant holding the glass in the frame has deteriorated beyond all recognition. The typical butyl sealant used for sealing glass into frames and frames to the cabin has a working life of around 20 years maximum. The first bit to go is usually the top strip, where the strong rays of the sun break down the butyl into a crumbly, powdered mess.

Adding sealant after a new hatch has been dropped into place and screwed down

No matter how experienced you might be at removing windows and hatches it always turns into a long, tedious job, so make sure you put aside a few days and do them one at a time to avoid having to tape tarps all over the boat.

If you do plan to remove them all at once, do mark all the components of each window and hatch with numbered tape (including any fixings) as it’s very likely they’ll all be a slightly different size or shape, so you don’t want to muddle them up. Also, mark the orientation of each frame so that it goes back in the same way, ensuring the mounting holes will line up.

Windows will be bedded into a frame which, though also sealed to the coachroof/deck at the end, will almost always be mechanically attached to the boat in some way. Although butyl sealant isn’t particularly adhesive, after 25 years you can guarantee it’ll be well stuck to the coachroof, and it’ll be much worse if someone has used an adhesive sealant on them!

The only way to remove them is by sheer hard graft unfortunately – sliding a sharp blade or sharpened paint stripper blade all around the seal (trying not to damage the boat) until enough of the old seal is broken to allow you to pull/push the window out.

Then a similar process has to be carried out on the frame to remove the glass or Perspex, whichever you have. The frame will usually be in two halves, joined by screws or clips with a backing plate, which will need to be cleaned up and resealed before reassembling.

One word of warning: the frames, commonly aluminium, often distort or even spring apart once you’ve removed the joiners, so it’s best to find a way to retain its shape (template or similar) so that it’ll slip easily back into place once you’ve sealed in the window. I’ve seen people make the mistake of sealing the pane into the frame and leaving it to go off before offering it up to the window aperture, only to find it no longer fits and they then have to either disassemble it all or start grinding out the aperture to match.

Once you’ve dismantled the window and hatch you must remove all trace of the old sealant and clean the frame and glass by rubbing alcohol or a similar non-oil-based product. Beware: some plastic panes, polycarbonate (such as Lexan) or acrylic, for instance, can be damaged when they come into contact with certain solvents, acetone or acids. All components must also be bone dry and solvent-free before you reseal them.

There’s a plethora of different types of adhesive and sealant available today but not all are suitable for every job. For instance, some of the well-known Sika brands of adhesive sealant will stick stuff together forever, which might sound great unless you need to change it a few years later and you have to chisel the component out of the GRP boat!

In rough seas any leaks in the windows will become all too apparent. All windows and hatches will need re-bedding sooner or later

Window and hatch glass is usually bedded in using butyl non-adhesive sealant as it will normally be held firmly in place by a frame, which in turn will be fixed to the boat using screws or bolts.

Butyl sealant is a mildly adhesive blend of butyl rubber and polyisobutylene. It is easy to apply and, remaining flexible, allows plenty of room for adjustment when the surfaces are mated together, unlike some quick-setting products.

In effect, it is used to simply create a waterproof, flexible gasket. Available in both cartridge form or as a tape, it is not unlike putty or chewing gum in feel and appearance, and is easier and far less messy than squirting sealant using a pump gun, although the latter is also available for other jobs.

One advantage of butyl is that it’s fairly easy to remove without the risk of surface damage at a later date, should it need redoing. The not-so-good news is it can be susceptible to UV damage, so in the case of some window areas that are regularly in full sun, it isn’t always the best solution.

An alternative product is silicone, which is an elastic, hybrid polymer. It has all the useful attributes of butyl sealant, while being UV and heat resistant too. Like butyl, silicone doesn’t have aggressive adhesive properties, so it’s important to only use it where there is some form of permanent physical support or fixture.

There are three seals for the opening hatch: the glass to the frame, the frame to the boat, and the rubber opening seal

Yacht window materials

Older boats often had tempered glass window and hatch panes, but these have since been widely superseded by lightweight, shatterproof plastic in most modern production yachts. The most common types used are polycarbonate or acrylic, available in a wide range of thicknesses.

One of the downsides of using plastic panes is that the material isn’t always very UV-resistant, particularly on older boats, leading them to craze over or discolour quite badly. There is no ‘cure’ for this unfortunately, you simply have to replace the panes with new.

Polycarbonate is a resin-based thermoplastic, which is so tough (around 250 times the breaking threshold of glass) that certain types are regularly used in the manufacture of bulletproof windows. It can, however, be scratched fairly easily and can discolour or craze over in constant direct sunlight.

The frames and aged sealant are removed, with old sealant carefully scraped off using a sharp chisel.

Acrylic plastic is part of the vinyl polymer family, also known as acrylates, or simply, acrylics. It is cheaper, less brittle and a little more UV-resistant than polycarbonate.

Neither, however, get on well with solvents, petroleum products such as WD40, or harsh cleaning fluids, preferring instead to be cleaned using warm water and mild washing-up liquid.

he screws were initially nipped up just a little over finger tight.

Both materials can be safely cut, drilled or heat formed into a curve with the correct equipment, although it isn’t that easy for a DIY’er. Frankly, though it’ll add a little to the cost, I would recommend having them pre-cut to fit.

Acrylic is more flexible than polycarbonate and therefore easier to form into shallow curves.

Fitting and resealing

If your pane fits into a U-shaped frame you’ll need to put rubber spacers between the frame and edges of the pane to ensure it is central in the frame and not chafing against it. These will remain in the frame. Then you’ll need similar spacers to ensure an even gap between the frame and pane is left on both sides to fill with sealant. Carry out a dry assembly run first to get the correct thickness of rubber spacers.

Sealant tape doesn’t work too well inside a U-shaped frame so it’s best to use a cartridge or putty knife to force the sealant into the gap, removing the side spacers as you go.

The frame itself can then be sealed to the hull using sealant tape. Clean the window surround thoroughly and then apply the tape to the hull, ensuring you lay tape all around each mounting screw hole as well. The frame should then be pushed gently back in place, lining the screw holes up, and then tightening the screws little by little, moving around the frame by opposing screws to ensure an even spread of the sealant. Do not overtighten the frame as the idea is to use the sealant as a gasket, not to squeeze all the sealant out of the sides!

Leave it a few days, if you can, before cleaning up any excess sealant from around the frames and make sure you don’t use cleaning products that are incompatible with the type of sealant you’ve chosen to use.

Yacht hatch repairs

Re-bedding the frame.

With hatches, the most common areas prone to leakage are the rubber gasket or the seal around the glass where it fits into the frame, so unless you know for sure that the base plate is leaking I’d leave it in place undisturbed. If you do need to remove and reseal the base it’s a good idea to put masking tape all around it before removing it.

This will make it easier to align the frame after applying the sealant, plus it will be in exactly the right place to protect the deck from sealant overspill when you come to replace the base frame, greatly facilitating the clean-up afterwards.

Carefully cutting through the old sealant around the window from below using a craft knife

To remove the base, you’ll have to either slide a sharp blade, paint scraper or a cheese wire around the existing sealant after removing any screws or bolts. You might even need to remove a trim piece or peel back the headlining a little if the nuts are concealed.

Butyl tape is the ideal solution for resealing hatch bases, although a liquid sealant will do just as well provided you carefully create a ring around each screw/bolt hole and ensure the bead of sealant is higher than any frame lip to ensure good contact with the glass.

Once the frame is in the correct position tighten up the screws/bolts just until the sealant starts to squeeze out, leaving it to be fully tightened later once it has cured. This prevents all the sealant being squeezed out by over-tightening the screws when the sealant is molten.

Re-bedding the glass

If it’s just the hatch gasket or the glass-to-frame bond that needs replacing then the base and top part of the hatch can usually be separated by unscrewing the hinges or just knocking out the hinge pin (it might need some penetrating fluid applied first).

On some older models hinge removal can be problematic and getting spare parts for things like knuckle hinges is now nigh on impossible. In which case it’s better to bite the bullet and remove the whole unit. Hatches with riser supports and/or manual clamps are usually simple to dismantle, allowing you to take the hatch top to the workbench to remove and replace the glass or acrylic more easily.

Remove the glass or acrylic by first cutting around the edge seal with a sharp knife. Remove as much of the old caulk as possible, which will make removing the glass easier. Prise the glass out carefully using one or more paint scrapers or something similar with a wide blade. Avoid screwdrivers as they can easily crack the glass.

Once removed, clean the frame and glass thoroughly with a solvent such as acetone, before re-bedding it onto butyl tape or sealant. After waiting for the sealant to dry, you need to caulk the remaining gap between the glass and frame. To make it an easy job to clean up afterwards, always run masking tape around both the glass and frame edges, leaving the gap to be caulked clear.

Enjoyed reading this?

A subscription to Yachting Monthly magazine costs around 40% less than the cover price .

Print and digital editions are available through Magazines Direct – where you can also find the latest deals .

YM is packed with information to help you get the most from your time on the water.

• Take your seamanship to the next level with tips, advice and skills from our experts
• Impartial in-depth reviews of the latest yachts and equipment
• Cruising guides to help you reach those dream destinations

Follow us on Facebook , Twitter and Instagram.

• Bavaria Yachts
• Delphia Yachts
• Monterey Boats
• Jetset Holiday
• JetSet Club
• Latest News
• Jetset Marine

COMFORT, WHATEVER HAPPENS.

Watch everything that happens around..

• Technical data

Bathing platform

Hatches and side windows, design theme, storage room, bilge pumps, instrumentation, helm station, propulsion / engine room, electric system.

•  400 6718 180

Original BAVARIA spare parts

Order original bavaria yachts spare parts.

Simply search for your desired spare parts at the shop or contact your local dealer with information about the needed spare part. The hull number or the boat model and year of construction of your BAVARIA are needed to select the right spare parts.

Order spare parts from SVB

If you like to order spare parts for your BAVARIA, please use the shop of our cooperation partner SVB.

SVB offers you original BAVARIA spare parts since only with original BAVARIA spare parts your yacht will remain an original. Find your original part – no matter if BAVARIA sailing yacht or motor yacht.

Requesting spare parts from the dealer

Your BAVARIA YACHTS dealer will of course also be pleased to advise you on the purchase of spare parts.

Beside the order and the delivery of your desired original BAVARIA YACHTS spare part, our local partner helps you with the installation and offers further services around your BAVARIA.

Experience the pure joy of yachting.

Sign up now for our WhatsApp newsletter and receive a FREE SVB set of playing cards!

Get the latest SVB news via WhatsApp and/or SMS!

• Spare parts
• SVB@Youtube
• My SVB Account
• Compare list

Are you missing items that you have already placed in your shopping cart? Log in to see your saved items.

• Hatches/Windows
• Inner Frames

BAVARIA YACHT Inner Frames

Fast, faster, SVB!

Worldwide delivery, in no time at all!

Customer ratings & reviews

Johan H. on 26.04.2024

Great product at a fair price delivered as promised, what more can you expect?

Konstantinos P. on 26.04.2024

Very good tradition very good product

Magnus M. on 26.04.2024