sailboat solar panel rail mount kit

Adaptability

Our innovation gives you options

Options and choices

In general we use two basic options for mounting rigid solar panels – one gets you up and over the canvas, and the other is a bit leaner. We then adapt the basic concept to the boat in question.

You can read more about these basic models in our article in Marine Fabricator magazine . This will give you a good idea where to start in planning your solar panel project.

Please also see our page of advice and FAQs on adding solar panels in seven easy steps.

Once you have a basic mounting option in mind, you can choose what Gemini Marine Products you want to use to execute the build.

Option 1: Low and lean

We designed our saddle-type post and fork mounts  with solar panels in mind. They give you easy, secure mounts for a solar panel frame that won’t draw attention to itself.

The saddle fittings bolt onto the top of the frame through the canvas of your bimini top or dodger. Rails running fore and aft create the base, and athwartship rails can augment the frame if needed. The entire installation can be made from off-the-shelf materials on the boat.

This option puts the entire rack up on the roof and largely hidden from view.

Option 2: Up and over

Alternatively you can use our   sliding or split side mounts  to create exterior side rails between your bimini’s end frames. Paired with a set of side-to-side bent rails, they go up and over the top to create the mounting platform.

This method does not touch the canvas and can be retrofitted without any fabric modifications. It provides good clearance and additional features such as a protective crash bar (think boom).

DIY Hybrids to meet  your  needs

You can of course mix and match our hardware and methods to create exactly what you need to suit your boat and the solar panels you’ve chosen.

Don’t take our word for it

The good folks at Abroad Reach Travel go through all the pros and cons of solar panel installation on boats, and when it comes to rigid panels, our rail mounts are right there on the shipping list .

Over at Tugnuts you’ll find lots of people using our mounts to install their solar panels . (Just search “Gemini” and see.

Easy enough for DIY. Strong enough for liveaboarders.

“ Easily executed .” – Tonya Ricketts and Captain Dave Pickering North East Canvas Products Association on using Gemini Marine Products for solar panel installation

Need a helping hand?

Use our DrillSteady  for clean, easy drilling every time, even on a rocking boat.

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Flexible Solar Panel Mounting Solutions

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Flexible Solar Panel Issues

Flexible solar panels get hot.

Solar panels get hot from normal operation upwards to 160ºF! The hotter they get, the less efficient, and the shorter their life span. Our flexible solar panel mounting solution using our twinwall polycarbonate solution solves this issue!

Flexible Solar Panel Crystals can Crack

Placing of a Solar Panel across Bimini or Dodger bows without additional support is not recommended by panel manufacturers. Doing so can crack the cell crystals leading to failure or even catch fire.

Additionally, when flexible solar panels that are affixed directly to canvas without support, oscillation induced by high winds causes is crystal cracking. Think of a flag flapping. How many times have you seen your Bimini flap during a summer squall, or frontal gale? That flapping is transferred directly to the flexible solar panel and subsequently causes crystal cracking. Our flexible solar panel twinwall polycarbonate mounting solution solves these issues!

Our Solution

Here at Potomac Sailmakers we are boaters first.  We sat down with a major Flexible Solar Panel manufacturer and discussed the matter at the Annapolis Boat show last fall. The result was a design that meets the following specifications:

• Is lightweight
• Supports Flexible Solar Panels Across Bows
• Provides cooling which increases efficiency and panel life longevity
• Quickly removable
• Secure in heavy wind and sea conditions
• No Screw hole penetration through canvas
• Makes handling and stowage safe (solar affixed to backer as “one” unit)
• Provide Chafe Protection

Solar Panel Mounting Assembly

Meet the Potomac Sailmakers’  flexible Twinwall Polycarbonate bolt-on Flexible Solar Panel Mounting Kit. We are now entering our second year of providing this solution!

It starts with a vented lightweight & strong twinwall polycarbonate substrate that is custom cut to the exact dimensions of the Solar Panel.

It is affixed to the panel by either mechanical and special high temperature adhesive tape. This becomes a single solar panel assembly that now nearly impossible to over flex which would cause damage to the solar panel crystals.

Next we fabricate side rails for both “long” edges of the panel assembly. These serve the dual function of securing the unit to the canvas and providing chafe protection. The side rails are sewn to the canvas. The side rail rails wrap around the long edge of the panel assembly and are fastened to the edge solar panel assembly by mechanical snaps.

On both short edges, we fabricate screens which provide chafe protection and allow panel ventilated cooling while keeping small insects out of the air vents. This kit is offshore ready and strong enough to securely hold panels in gales, rough sea conditions, summer squalls. We use Top-Gun® fabric on the rails which provides excellent chafe and UV protection.

We previously had an off-shore and in-shore model, but decide to standardize on design that can handle off-shore gales and in-shore thunderstorm winds which can exceed hurricane force at times.

One of the great benefits of our system is that the solar panel assembly is quickly installable & removable by one person.

Here is a picture on an O’Day

Mounting Options:

1. Our Kit, we sew – Send us your Canvas or drop it off at our loft and have us sew the rail kit on. We will return the canvas, the custom cut twinwall polycarbonate, mounting tape (solar panel to twinwall), velcro and any other options you want. You can even ship us your solar panel if you wish for a complete turn-key solution.

2. Our Kit, you sew – We provide our complete sew-on kit and you sew it on or have your local canvas shop sew it on

3. DIY – This “non-sew-on”  installation an be via a through-bolt kit such as is offered by Custom Marine Products or your own method.

Other Options

Storage Bag – custom made storage bag for PSOLMA© when it is not mounted.

Batten supports – These are custom sized battens that go underneath the canvas and rest on top of the bows. They keep the panels from depressing the canvas thereby preventing pooling of water and associated debris and providing a more professional streamlined look. The battens are held in place by chafe resistant straps that wrap around the bows. The battens are strong laminated vinylester pieces with end caps that we also use on our small boat racing sails.

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The Complete Guide to Solar Panel Mounts for Boats (and Where to Position Them)

How many boaters invest hours researching solar panels? They go all wide-eyed at the shiny panels, marveling at their ingenuity, but how many consider the humble mounts those bright panels sit on?

Let's face facts: Solar panels get all the glory, but spare a thought for the mounts? A good mount can help you get the most out of your solar, increasing your capacity by up to 40 percent.

So maybe it's time for mounts to step out of the shadows of solar panels and into the sunlight (bad pun, I know). Seriously, let's give them some glory.

The type of mounts you have depends on what you want the solar to do and the space available. Is it to charge a cell phone or mobile GPS unit? Or is it to power your entire onboard needs when stationary?

The engine does the hard work when you're moving, so you only really need solar when you're moored up, right? To find out what solar mounts are right for you, we first need to discover what type of boater you are.

Are You a Liveaboard Boater?

Being a liveaboard boater  is a different experience to being a leisure boater. You can't just plug-in to a marina or get into an SUV and tow the boat home at the first sign of a rain cloud. The boat is your home.

So power is something you need to manage carefully. And the right solar panel mounts for your boat are essential to optimize the performance of your solar panels.

Are You a Leisure Boater?

As a leisure boater, you'll have different priorities than a liveaboard, and your need to manage power is not so crucial. You'll watch for sunny weather and head out in the boat for a day or weekend excursion . So why do you need solar?

Coolers need power to chill their contents and cell phones need charging. But in the main, the boat engine will power the electrical equipment onboard, because there won't be long periods when you're not moving, unlike a liveaboard boater.

Liveaboard or not, if the sun's power reduces your costs, minimizes the engine's wear and tear and you can afford it, why not?

What Are the Best Boats for Solar Panel Mounts?

Pontoon Boats

It depends on the size and shape of your pontoon boat . Smaller vessels are designed to make the most of the available space, which means seating and guests take priority on the deck .

Newer models, like the Cypress Cay Sea breeze SL 250, have virtually no surface to put solar mounts. Some pontoons have living space.

The Canadian manufacturer  South lands  builds hybrid pontoon boats, but the average pontoon vessels are for day trips and fishing. Some pontoons have fixed canopies so solar mounts can fit the available flat surfaces .

If you're in the market for a pontoon boat, solar panels and how to mount them are way down on your list of priorities.

Yachts offer a multitude of opportunities to fit solar mounts. Pole mounts are popular with yacht owners, as are fixed and angled mounts . And because most yachts are seafaring, there's little to obstruct the sun's rays way out in the ocean.

In addition, yachts are designed to travel farther, making extended periods onboard inevitable. This means that choosing the right mount is crucial to achieving maximum input.

Canal Boats

A  canal boat's  design makes them ideal vessels to fit solar mounts. Their robust, steel roofs can withstand the most durable solar panel mounts. This means larger panels can be attached to increase onboard power input.

Because of their long shape, canal boats also allow various panel mount options too. In fact, the only solar panel mount that's unsuitable for a canal boat is the pole mount because of low canal bridge clearances.

Motor Cruisers

Motor cruisers, because of their shape, often have plenty of space for panel mounts to be fitted. With long flat roofs, most motor cruisers (even the mid-range ones) are excellent boats for fixed, angled and even pole mounts .

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The Best Ways to Fix Solar Panel Mounts to Your Boat

Glue adhesives.

There are numerous products available to bond panel mounts to any surface. If you choose this option, it's worth remembering there's some prep work before applying the glue.

Most manufacturers recommend cleaning the surface area before bonding, and some recommend lightly sanding the surface before applying adhesive.

I recommend this  Sikaflex-252 White Polyurethane Adhesive The most significant advantage of this glue is that once dried, it can be sanded and painted. Oh, and when choosing adhesives, there's the small matter of  no holes .

The fixing solution you choose depends on the boat you have and where it's used. Gluing solar mounts on a seafaring yacht may not be the best idea, especially if you're mid-Atlantic in force nine gales.

You want to know that the mounts are going to do their job and hold your solar panels in place. This Temco Z Bracket Stainless Steel Mount Kit (Available on Amazon) can be easily installed on solar panels. The stainless steel material means it'll never leave rust on your boat.

You're gonna need to bolt the mounts to the roof. Just make sure that when you've drilled the holes, you have enough marine-grade  sealant to plug the gaps.

Panel Sizes Versus Types of Mounts for Your Boat

Some solar panel mounts aren't suitable for different-sized panels. The most robust by far is the fixed mount system. If you cruise a lot and don't mind the panels being permanently flat, then these mounts can handle whatever weight you throw at them.

If you want tilt and angled mounts, then you'll need to check with the manufacturer what the maximum load is. The general rule of thumb is: the larger the mount, the bigger the panel it will hold.

Panel weights 100 w or less will fit cheaper mounts. If you want panels over 100 w, check with the bracket manufacturer to see the maximum load weight.

The Best Way to Position Solar Panel Mounts on the Boat

Your first consideration is the obstructions that might hamper the performance of the panels. Get it wrong and all that hard-earned cash you shelled will be for nothing.

Putting a fixed mount for solar on a deck of a motor cruiser isn't any good if you then use a retractable canopy to shield you from the sun and it blocks the panel producing energy. You've just wasted hundreds of dollars.

Another consideration is the mount type, especially if you're stationary for long periods. Tracking the sun by tilting the panels when not moving will increase power input massively.

If you're mostly moving and rarely still, then flat is best. This position optimizes the sun's rays, drawing power in whichever position the boat sits.

Look at your own boat. Does it have large flat areas, preferably high up and unaffected by shadows or obstructions? If the answer is yes, then the next consideration is what type of solar panel mount is best for you.

The Different Types of Solar Panel Mounts for Boats

Fixed Mount

The  HQST Z-Bracket is an excellent example of a fixed mount. It's lightweight and inexpensive. And I mean cheap!

It isn't complicated to fit, although it does require you to drill holes in whatever surface you attach it to. This bracket also enables you to mount the panel to many styles of vessels. The manufacturer even recommends them for RVs.

The other advantage of a fixed mount system is its ability to handle panel sizes from the smallest all the way up to 300w. While these look like a good option, it's worth remembering that if you need the flexibility of moving the panels to chase the sun, fixed mounts won't be for you. 

On an ocean-going yacht or a pontoon boat (space permitting) on a lake, the fixed mount system would be worth considering. There'll be minimum obstructions, and while you're always moving, the flat fixed mounts will optimize the charge into the batteries.

There are other types of fixed-mount systems that don't require any drilling.

The  Renogy Solar Panel Drill-Free Corner Bracket is a good choice if you don't want to drill holes in your boat roof. They aren't as cheap as the Z-Brackets, but primarily they do the same job.

If you own a boat with a fiberglass body, drilling into the roof simply isn't an option. So how are they fixed? Good old bonding adhesive like Sikaflex 252 (Available on Amazon) .

Adjustable Mounts

The Renogy Adjustable Tilt Mount Bracket  mount enables the solar panel to be adjusted to directly face the sun, a feature commonly used when the boat is still.

For the liveaboard boater, the adjustable mount is crucial. By adjusting the angle of the panels, you can increase the input of energy by up to 40 percent.

This particular model can only support a maximum panel of 150w, and the adjustment angle does decrease depending on the size of the panels. So it's worth considering that the max 150w panel, while the most powerful, could give less performance with this bracket, because of the angle that it can be mounted.

What makes this mount different is that the brackets that attach to the roof of your boat are independent of each other, rather than on a long aluminum bracket joining them together.

It means the roof doesn't have to be completely flat. Canal boats would benefit from this type of bracket because they have slightly curved roofs.

The Link Solar Adjustable Rack Solar Panel Mount  is another adjustable bracket, enabling the maximum performance of the panels.

It's a rack system, so it has a long strip bracket that attaches to the roof. The beauty of this system is the capacity it can handle.

If you invest in the 41-inch bracket, it'll take the weight of a 300w solar panel. It may cost more, but given that you'll probably only need two brackets if you're mounting 300w solar panels, it could still be a cost-effective choice.

Just remember where you're going to mount it. Because it's a rack system panel mount, it only fits on perfectly flat surfaces.

AM Solar 35mm Tilting Mount Okay, I'm a bit sneaky here. Technically, these mounts are for RVs. But if it attaches to RVs, it'll attach to your boat. They're light, compact and give vital adjustability to maximize the sun's power.

This mounting system's advantage is you'll avoid drilling holes in your roof. Each bracket has a VHB tape strip, which bonds to most surfaces. Fiberglass gives the best bond, but if it works for RVs, then metal surfaces will work too.

A word of caution:  These brackets attach by drilling into the solar panel's side. This is the crucial bit: If you're piercing the side of your panel, there's a strong chance you'll invalidate the warranty.

It's worth checking before you do. AM Solar sells compatible panels with pre-drilled holes, which massively cuts down on your choices and ability to shop around for the best price.

Pole Mounts 

Missouri Pole Mount

Let's start with a positive: This pole mount is 100% American. That's got to be a good thing, right? 

Pole mounts are excellent for panels that can be raised up to avoid obstructions. They're also good for boats with limited solar panel mounting space.

Pole mounts are popular with yacht owners due to their maneuverability and height adjustment properties. This particular pole system can handle two 100w panels, so there's no need to compromise on the energy you create.

What We've Learned

All the solar panel mounts featured are value for money. What to consider is the panel size. Is it better to have two 300w panels, reducing the number of solar mounts? Or do you go for six 100w panels, increasing the mount's overall cost? That'll depend on your boat's available space.

By far, the easiest to use is the fixed flat system . Glue or bolt the brackets on and away you go. No fuss. But again, mounting space may be an issue, so this type of mount won't be for everyone.

The most efficient is the angled, adjustable mount . Liveaboards should consider this when buying solar. Increasing your panel's performance with the ability to angle towards the sun is vital if you're stationary for extended periods.

In winter, when the sun sits lower in the sky, you'll reap the benefits of angled mounting systems for sure.

To clean your solar panels, simply rinse with a boat hose  and nozzle and swipe with a silicone squeegee . This is a quick task to do when you've got out the boat soap  or hull cleaner for the rest of the vessel.

One Final Point

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Adding Solar Power to a Sailboat

• By Emily Fagan
• Updated: October 18, 2019

During our nearly four-year cruise of Mexico, my husband, Mark, and I lived almost exclusively on 555 watts of solar power charging a 640-amp-hour house battery bank. We anchored out virtually every night aboard our 2008 Hunter 44DS, Groovy , and relied on the sun for power. During one 10-week stretch, while we waited for a replacement engine alternator to arrive, our boat’s solar panels were our sole source of power. We had no backup charging system to turn to, and yet we lived and sailed comfortably the entire time. Mounting solar panels on a sailboat was not difficult, but a few key decisions made a huge difference in how effective our panels were.

A solar-power installation on a sailboat is made up of two independent systems: one system to charge the batteries, and another system to provide 120-volt AC power for household appliances. In the charging system, the solar panels convert sunlight into electrical current and deliver it to the batteries via a solar charge controller. Similar to a voltage regulator, the charge controller acts as a gatekeeper to protect the batteries from receiving more current than they need as they are being charged. In the AC power system, an inverter or inverter/charger converts the 12-volt DC power in the battery into 120 volts AC whenever it is turned on.

Panel Positioning and Wiring Considerations

One of the biggest challenges for sailors installing solar power on a sailboat is finding a place on the boat where the panels will be shaded as little as possible. Just a few square inches of shade on one panel can render that panel all but inoperable. Unfortunately, between the mast, radome, spreaders and boom, shadows cross the deck all day long, especially as the boat swings back and forth at anchor.

What’s worse, if the panels are wired in series rather than in parallel, this little bit of shade can shut down the entire solar-panel array. When we installed solar power on Groovy , we had already lived exclusively on solar power in an RV for over two years. Our RV solar panels had been wired in series, and we had witnessed the array shutting down current production when just half of one panel was shaded.

Choosing whether to wire the panels in series or parallel on a boat affects the wire gauge required, which is why many solar-power installers lean toward wiring the panels in series. Panels wired in series can be wired all the way to the solar charge controller with a thinner-gauge wire than those wired in parallel. This is because the voltage of panels wired in series is additive, while the current remains constant, so the current flowing is just that of a single panel. In contrast, the current flowing from panels that are wired in parallel is additive, while the voltage across them is not. This means that in a parallel installation, the current going to the charge controller is several times higher and requires much thicker cable to avoid any voltage loss over the length of the wire.

Not only is thinner-gauge wire less expensive, but it is also more supple and easier to work with, making the job of snaking it in and around various crevices in the boat and connecting it to the solar charge controller much less of a struggle. Thus the choice between series and parallel wiring boils down to a trade-off between system performance, expense and ease of solar system installation.

Luckily, the size of the wire can be reduced if higher-­voltage solar panels are chosen. Since watts are determined by multiplying volts by amps, a higher-voltage panel that generates the same watts as a lower-voltage panel will produce less current. Therefore, selecting nominal 24-volt panels instead of 12-volt panels allows for the use of thinner wire sizes no matter how they are wired.

Our Marine Solar Panel Design Choices

In our installation, we decided to mount three 185-watt, 24-volt (nominal) Kyocera solar panels high above the cockpit, well aft of the boom, as far away as possible from potential shade. Our Hunter came with a big, solid stainless-steel arch, and we turned to Alejandro Ulloa, a brilliant metal fabricator at Baja Naval Boatyard in Ensenada, Mexico, to build a polished stainless-steel solar-panel arch extension onto the existing structure. He designed the arch extension with integrated telescoping davits to hoist our dinghy as well as support the solar panels. These davits were strong enough — and the lines and blocks had enough purchase — that either of us could lift our light Porta-Bote dinghy with its 6-horsepower outboard without a winch.

We spaced the panels about a half-inch apart and wired them in parallel. Using two twin-lead wires, we snaked the three positive leads and one common ground down through the inside of the arch tubes so they wouldn’t be visible, and placed wire loom over the exposed wires under the panels.

The junction points for the three parallel panels were on positive and negative bus bars inside a combiner box, all mounted in a cockpit lazarette. Inside the combiner box, we installed three breakers, one for each panel. This gave us the ability to shut off any or all of the panels if we needed to (we never did).

We mounted a Xantrex solar charge controller (model XW MPPT 60-150) in a hanging locker, as close to the batteries as possible, in a spot where it was easy to monitor and program. We ran twin-lead wire from the combiner box to the charge controller and from there to the batteries.

Our boat came with three new 12-volt Mastervolt 4D AGM house batteries, all wired in parallel, for a total of 480 amp-hours of capacity. We wanted a bigger house battery bank, and because it is best for the age, type and size of the batteries to be matched, we added a fourth new Mastervolt 4D AGM house battery, which brought our total to 640 amp-hours. Our batteries were installed at the lowest point in the hull, below the floorboards, and they ran the length of the saloon, from just forward of the companionway stairs to just aft of the V-berth stateroom door.

The best way to charge a bank of batteries that are wired in parallel is to span the entire battery bank with the leads coming from the charge controller. We did this by connecting the positive lead from the charge controller to the positive terminal of the first battery in the bank, and the negative lead from the charge controller to the negative terminal of the last battery. By spanning the entire bank, the batteries were charged equally rather than having the charging current focused on just the first battery in the bank.

We feel that AGM batteries are superior to wet cell (flooded) batteries because they can be installed in any orientation, don’t require maintenance, can’t spill (even in a capsize), and charge more quickly. Our Mastervolt batteries, like almost all AGM batteries on the market, are dual-purpose, combining the very different characteristics of both deep-cycle and start batteries. Our batteries work well, but if we were doing an installation from scratch today, we would consider the new Trojan Reliant AGM batteries. These batteries are engineered strictly for deep-cycle use and have been optimized to provide consistent current and maximize battery life.

Our boat came with a Xantrex Freedom 2,500-watt inverter/charger wired into the boat’s AC wiring system with a transfer switch. The inverter/charger performed two functions. While the boat was disconnected from shore power, it converted the batteries’ 12-volt DC power into 120-volt AC power, allowing us to operate 120-volt appliances, like our microwave. When the boat was connected to shore power, it charged the batteries.

Because this inverter/charger was a modified-sine-wave inverter, mimicking AC ­current with a stair-stepped square wave, we also had a 600-watt pure-sine-wave inverter to power our potentially more sensitive electronic devices. We chose Exeltech because its inverters produce an electrical signal that is clean enough to power medical equipment, and they are NASA’s choice for both the Russian and American sides of the International Space Station. For simplicity, rather than wiring the inverter into the cabin’s AC wiring, we plugged ordinary household power strips into the AC outlets on the inverter and plugged our appliances into the power strips. Like the charge controller, the inverter must be located as close to the batteries as possible. Ours was under a settee.

Shade’s Impact on Sailboat Solar Panels

Once our solar installation was completed on our sailboat, we closely observed the effects of shade on our solar-panel array. We were often anchored in an orientation that put the panels in full sun. Just as often, however, we were angled in such a way that shade from the mast and boom covered portions of our panels. It was fascinating to monitor the solar charge controller’s LCD display whenever the sun was forward of the beam — the current from the panels to the batteries fluctuated up and down as we swung at anchor.

Taking notes one morning, we noticed that the charging current was repeatedly creeping up and down between 9.5 and 24.5 amps as the boat moved to and fro. When the entire solar-panel array was in full sun, it generated 24.5 amps of current. When we moved so the mast shaded a portion of one panel, the array generated 15 amps. When it shaded portions of two panels and only one was in full sun, the array produced just 9.5 amps. Of course, it would have been preferable to see a steady 24.5 amps all morning, but this sure beat watching the current drop to zero whenever a shadow crossed a panel.

We discovered that shade makes a huge impact while sailing, too. Surprisingly, it is far worse to have the panels shaded by the sails than to have the panels in full sun but tilted away from its direct rays. One afternoon, we noticed that while we were on a tack that tilted the panels away from the sun, they generated 24.5 amps of current, whereas on a tack where the panels were tilted toward the sun but two of the three were partially shaded by the sails, the current dropped to a mere 10 amps.

Reflections On Our Solar Panel Installation

A wonderful and surprising side benefit of our large solar panels and arch system was that the setup created fabulous shade over the jumpseats at the stern end of the cockpit. Our metal fabricator, Alejandro, placed a support strut at hand-holding height, and sitting in those seats feels secure and comfortable while sailing, no matter the conditions.

After living on solar power for eight years of cruising and land-yacht travel, we’ve learned that you can never have too much solar power. Groovy’s 555 watts was enough to run all our household appliances as needed, including our nearly 4-cubic-foot DC refrigerator, two laptops, a TV/DVD player, and lights at night. However, it was not quite enough power to run all that plus our stand-alone 2.5-cubic-foot DC freezer during the short days and low sun angles of the winter months without supplemental charging from the engine alternator every few days. For the 10 weeks that we did not have a functioning alternator, our solution was to turn off the freezer, which enabled our batteries to reach full charge every afternoon.

Solar power made a world of difference in our cruise. Not only did it allow us to live comfortably and with ample electricity for weeks on end when our engine alternator went on the blink, but as a “set-it-and-forget-it” system, it also gave us the freedom to anchor out for as long as we wished without worrying about the batteries. In our eyes, the solar-panel arch enhanced the beauty and lines of our boat, giving her a sleek and clean appearance. It was true icing on the cake to discover that the panels and arch system also provided much-needed shade over the cockpit and helm from the hot tropical sunshine. If you are preparing for a cruise, consider turning to the sun for electricity and outfitting your sailboat with solar power.

The Installation:

Emily and Mark Fagan offer cruising tips and share their stories and photos on their website, roadslesstraveled.us . They are currently enjoying a land cruise across America aboard an RV.

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mounting solar panels on sailboat rails We have built a strong customer service team - a team of professionals with the right skills. We organize training sessions for them to improve their skills such as excellent communication skills. Thus we are able to convey what we mean in a positive way to customers and provide them with the required products at Trip Solar Bracket in an efficient manner. TripSolar mounting solar panels on sailboat rails We carry out regular training to our service team to enrich their knowledge and understanding of the products, the production process, the production technology, and the industry dynamics in order to solve customer's question in a timely and effective manner. We have a strong global logistics distribution network, enabling the fast and safe delivery of products at TripSolar Bracket.wholesale solar brackets,wholesale universal solar panel pole mount bracket ,standing seam solar mount.

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Noa Adjustable Solar Panel Mount Kit

£  109.95

12 in stock

+44 (0)2392 219433

• Description
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NOA solar panel mount fastens on the rail and includes all fittings. The panel can be adjusted about the horizontal to face the sun.

• Stays of 650mm length for fixing to panel
• Rotates and slides
• Secure mount to rail
• NOA fittings included

NOA fittings are supplied for a standard 25mm rail. If required a 22mm rail fitting or an insert for 22mm rail can be supplied. 30mm rails can be accommodated only by removing the rubber insert completely.

NOA has provided accessories to boat-owners for more than 20 years making life at sea safe, secure and simple.

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Rail mounting solar panels

• Thread starter stranded
• Start date 13 Nov 2016
• 13 Nov 2016

Well-known member

A simple question I think for anyone with a mechanical mind. I've got two 100W (so very roughly 1200 x 590mm, 8kg) rigid solar panels to mount on the pushpit side rails. The connection will be through a pair of NOA rail mounts - the sort (B I think they are designated) which allow the panel to slide. I had planned to use canopy fittings to fix a strut between the lower pushpin rail and outer panel edge to prevent the NOA rail fittings turning in testing conditions. Still possible, though the rail mounts for canopy fittings all seem to have the cotter pin arranged so the strut pivots in line, whereas I would need it perpendicular) But. Is there a significant mechanical disadvantage (or indeed advantage) to using tensioned lines from the outside edges of the panel to the lower pushpit rail so as to prevent movement by 'pulling the edges in' with rope rather than pushing one edge out with a rigid strut? Does this make any sense?  

Lon nan Gruagach

Active member.

Dougal Tolan said: These: Work very well. A larger, similar, fitting that fits scaffold pole sized rails needs no other fixing on 1m 2 panels that have been out in 100mph gusts. The wind loading is almost perfectly balanced so they stay put. If you are concerned that your rails are too small for this to work then you might sleeve them and fix the sleeves with a pin. Click to expand...

• 14 Nov 2016

Nooka said: A simple question I think for anyone with a mechanical mind. I've got two 100W (so very roughly 1200 x 590mm, 8kg) rigid solar panels to mount on the pushpit side rails. The connection will be through a pair of NOA rail mounts - the sort (B I think they are designated) which allow the panel to slide. I had planned to use canopy fittings to fix a strut between the lower pushpin rail and outer panel edge to prevent the NOA rail fittings turning in testing conditions. Still possible, though the rail mounts for canopy fittings all seem to have the cotter pin arranged so the strut pivots in line, whereas I would need it perpendicular) But. Is there a significant mechanical disadvantage (or indeed advantage) to using tensioned lines from the outside edges of the panel to the lower pushpit rail so as to prevent movement by 'pulling the edges in' with rope rather than pushing one edge out with a rigid strut? Does this make any sense? Click to expand...

I use the stanchion as a support for an extending bar brace. I have used these fittings for 2 years now ... but am moving to the same NOA fittings as you for next season... .. so i can move the panels more outboard when required. I also use smaller serial panels to keep the voltage high and parallel either side to combat shading. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5713/25352710699_c99de7d8fb_z.jpg https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5664/22810522198_e4eb8b4cce_c.jpg https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5555/22810094158_36a94ba330_c.jpg  

Thanks guys - yes, that is the sort of thing I am trying to do. I just want enough articulation so that with the sliding NOA fittings (which I have already bought) I can achive some degree of variation on the angle to the sun by sliding them inboard/outboard. Though from Dougal's contribution I might see how they do on their own - that's why I wanted to bring a mechanical mind to bear because it hadn't occurred to me that with the panel centred over the rail the wind forces would in themselves largely cancel out on each side of the panel (might have to streamline the under edge to stop the frame profile 'catching' significantly more wind underneath - though if that is a real rather than imagined imbalance, maybe could achieve similar effect by setting up off centre. Could then go for a simpler strut to support when the panels are fully outboard when anchored/moored and max sunbathing space required!  

• 15 Nov 2016

Nooka said: Thanks guys - yes, that is the sort of thing I am trying to do. I just want enough articulation so that with the sliding NOA fittings (which I have already bought) I can achive some degree of variation on the angle to the sun by sliding them inboard/outboard. Though from Dougal's contribution I might see how they do on their own - that's why I wanted to bring a mechanical mind to bear because it hadn't occurred to me that with the panel centred over the rail the wind forces would in themselves largely cancel out on each side of the panel (might have to streamline the under edge to stop the frame profile 'catching' significantly more wind underneath - though if that is a real rather than imagined imbalance, maybe could achieve similar effect by setting up off centre. Could then go for a simpler strut to support when the panels are fully outboard when anchored/moored and max sunbathing space required! Click to expand...

PaulRainbow

I have a similar sized panel at the stern, attached to a pole. The pole can rotate and the panel can tilt, so it can always be directly facing the Sun, although i rarely bother to move it.  

Attachments

PuffTheMagicDragon

skipper_stu said: View attachment 61003 I dont know why it comes out upside down! Click to expand...

PuffTheMagicDragon said: Is this better? Click to expand...

• 16 Nov 2016

In the past twelve years in the Med I have managed to destroy three stanchions in almost exactly the position that the solar panel in the photo is mounted. One of these was my fault, berthing stern-to in a force 7 in Sardinia, but the other two were done by others, one when I was not on board. In each case the panel would have been wrecked. Yet another good reason why people mount them on arches.  

Vyv I too am looking at mounting panels on the rail as in Puff's photo, but using the brackets shown in post #3 it should be possible to store the panels on the inside of the stanchions, rather than the outside, with the (presumably) more fragile side of the panel facing inwards. To deploy the panel for use, you would only need to lift the panel (using the sliding mechanism of the brackets) and then rotate the panels outwards over the rail and then secure them horizontally. Given the damage you have previously endured, do you think that panels mounted this way would be less likely to be damaged than panels secured as in the photo?  

vyv_cox said: In the past twelve years in the Med I have managed to destroy three stanchions in almost exactly the position that the solar panel in the photo is mounted. One of these was my fault, berthing stern-to in a force 7 in Sardinia, but the other two were done by others, one when I was not on board. In each case the panel would have been wrecked. Yet another good reason why people mount them on arches. Click to expand...

neil1967 said: Vyv I too am looking at mounting panels on the rail as in Puff's photo, but using the brackets shown in post #3 it should be possible to store the panels on the inside of the stanchions, rather than the outside, with the (presumably) more fragile side of the panel facing inwards. To deploy the panel for use, you would only need to lift the panel (using the sliding mechanism of the brackets) and then rotate the panels outwards over the rail and then secure them horizontally. Given the damage you have previously endured, do you think that panels mounted this way would be less likely to be damaged than panels secured as in the photo? Click to expand...

Nooka said: In the scheme of things, for us say £450 in replacement panels over 12 years seems a fair price to avoid the aesthetic compromises of an arch. Click to expand...

skipper_stu said: I dont know why it comes out upside down! But it gives you an idea of what I have done! Hinges on the top angle of the panel, notched pusher stick on the bottom, the notches rest on the toe rail with 12mm shock cord with a hook on tied parallel to the pusher and hooked on the toe rail as well. Click to expand...

dunedin said: How did you attach the s/s tubes - did you weld (preventing removal) or use some kind of bracket? Click to expand...

vyv_cox said: The aesthetics are a matter of opinion, I suppose. Obtaining a replacement panel of exactly the same size and specification when cruising the Mediterranean may be no easy task. This season we needed a new stripper arm for our windlass. The Greek agent had one in stock, its cost was €10. It was shipped to the nearest point at which we could collect it. €18. We hired a car for the day to go for it after being assured that the package would be ready for collection. €60 (it was in August). It was not there. Next day we went by taxi for it. €30. At least the stripper arm was the right one! Click to expand...

Nooka I used the NOA rail mounts for a couple of 50 watt solar panels on the pushpit. Photo here... Jubilant at Portland Marina The mounts feel very secure and although I did buy a couple of rods and dinghy tiller UJs to make some adjusters, I ended up propping them up with a few left over plastic pipes and they've survived a year like that. One thing to note about the NOA mounts is that they are designed for 25mm rails and you might find you have 1" rails. They really don't clamp easily around the 25.4mm rail but if you clamp them perhaps on a warm day, then tighten up gradually over a few days, they will fit in the end. I believe NOA have suggested sanding the insides down a bit - but don't worry, they do fit eventually.  

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When you’ve already narrowed down your options to reputable installers and are trying to decide which quote to move forward with, here are three final considerations that distinguish the best from the rest:

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As of March 2024, the average solar panel cost in Moscow, PA is $2.89/W . Given a solar panel system size of 5 kilowatts (kW), an average solar installation in Moscow, PA ranges in cost from $12,298 to $16,638 , with the average gross price for solar in Moscow, PA coming in at $14,468 . After accounting for the 30% federal solar tax credit and other state and local solar incentives, the net price you'll pay for solar can fall by thousands of dollars, and with options like a solar loan, solar lease, or power purchase agreement (PPA), you can find the right payment setup for your personal needs.

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Solar Panel Installation Companies in Moscow

Location (1).

• Use My Current Location

Popular Locations

• Albuquerque
• Cedar Rapids
• Grand Rapids
• Indianapolis
• Jacksonville
• Kansas City
• Little Rock
• Los Angeles
• Minneapolis
• New Orleans
• Oklahoma City
• Orange County
• Philadelphia
• Portland Maine
• Salt Lake City
• San Francisco
• San Luis Obispo
• Santa Barbara
• Washington D.C.
• Moscow, Moscow region, Russia

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