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My Bluewater Sailboat’s 40 Year Refit

Cruising Sailboat Costs / October 7, 2021 by TJ / 3 Comments

If you’re looking at buying a 40 year old fiberglass cruising sailboat you’re probably wondering what kind of refit you’ll be looking at and how much that refit will cost.

In this article I am going to break down the refit I had done on S/V Counterpoint, my Bristol 45.5.  Per my pre-purchase survey :

The Bristol 45.5’s are a well-built and sturdy vessel. Attention to the larger issues will assure a long life ahead. These issues are common to any older vessel.

Now, of course, the boat you’re looking at might have had some of these refit items addressed already.  The boat’s pre-purchase survey is your best resource for figuring out what projects her refit will entail.

Every sailboat is different.  That’s even more true about 40 year old boats than it is about modern production sailboats.  Counterpoint’s 40 year refit is not a template; it is merely one example.

I knew buying a 40 year old boat that the refit would be substantial.  I could have searched for a boat where much of this work was already done but I preferred the opportunity to have the work done to my standards.  If you’re looking at a 40 year old boat you may be better served by finding one where the seller has kept up with some or all of these refit items.

I wasn’t trying to buy a project.  I set out to buy a sailboat that I could sail and eventually live aboard.  With a substantial refit I expected having the refit done professionally so that I could enjoy the boat instead of spending all my time working on it.  I was shopping for a yard to do the refit at the same time as I was shopping for Counterpoint herself.

40 Year Sailboat Refit Costs:

Let’s jump right in.  Here is how I spent $94,000 on S/V Counterpoint’s refit:

Later in this article I will go through each of these projects but first I’d like to discuss a few headlines before diving into the details.

Time vs. Money

I spent $53,000 on 883 hours of labor for this refit.  $53k is a lot of money no matter how you slice it.  $53k is 70% of Counterpoint’s purchase price.

I’m sure I’ll hear from plenty of people about how much money I could have saved if I had done the work myself.  I would certainly have spent less money on the refit, but what would it have cost me?

Let’s assume I worked 8 hour days every Saturday and Sunday since the day after my first sail aboard Counterpoint: July 5th, 2019.

I’m also going to give myself the benefit of the doubt and figure my labor is half as efficient as professional labor on these projects.  Even though I don’t have a yard full of tools and parts handy.  In spite of the fact that I’ve never before attempted jobs like these (except the bottom paint and additional bilge pump install).  That I’d be working solo on some jobs that would best be done with two or more people.  That I don’t have existing relationships with the sub-contractors necessary for these jobs.

This is an alternative story of my life since buying Counterpoint, in table form:

The last completion date is a project completion date projection assuming I missed two weekends in 2019, two weekends in 2020 and two weekends in 2021.

So $53,000 bought me just over two years of weekends back; not just two seasons but two entire years of weekends.  Bought me back sailing during the 2019, 2020 and 2021 sailing seasons.

Time and Money aren’t the only trade offs.  If I had spent nearly 2000 hours working on Counterpoint I think I would be well on my way to an entry level boat yard laborer; I still own Counterpoint so the knowledge and skills would not go to waste.  I would also have accumulated a substantial workshop worth of tools.

I’d also probably be a very bitter boat owner barely having the chance to sail my boat during the first 3 seasons owning it.

Am I ecstatic about having spent $53k to have a yard refit Counterpoint?  Not really.  But I am very happy with the results of the refit.  Even in hindsight if I had the chance for a do-over I’d approach the refit the same way.

Estimate vs. Actual Cost

I did not get estimates for every part of S/V Counterpoint’s refit.  But I spent a lot of time and effort getting estimates and evaluating boat yards for the most expensive projects in the refit .

With everything that the tank project would open up aboard Counterpoint I figured even if I got an estimate for fixing all the projects I knew about more work would come up.  My hope was that all of the work choosing the right yard for the big projects meant good quality and fair prices for the smaller, un-estimated ones.

Here I break down the $93k I spent on the refit to calculate how the estimates lined up with the actual cost:

Overall Johanson Boatworks came in under 113% of what they estimated.  I was satisfied with that level of accuracy.

I was also pleasantly surprised that the additional work came out to under $20k.

Refit Projects

I went into great detail of how I chose the right yard for the replacement of my diesel and water tanks in the bilge here .  All that’s left to discuss is the numbers.  

The tank replacement project came in 14% more than estimated which I was OK with.

The tank project was 54% labor.  The largest expenses for the project were the tanks themselves; they were custom fabricated on site using the original tanks as templates.  This way the only fuel and water capacity I lost was due to the additional thickness of the newer tanks.

Thru Hulls & Seacocks

The seacocks on S/V Counterpoint were in rough condition when I bought her.  Some of the newer plastic ones seeped seawater when they were closed and the bronze seacocks were as corroded as any seacocks I had ever seen (they did all work though).

I had all 15 of them replaced.  Johanson and I did not spend nearly as much on that part of the estimate as we did on the tank projects.  I erroneously told them there were only 12 seacocks to replace so I counted the $2,617 for the additional three as additional work.  So for the 12 seacocks quoted the quote was exceeded by 10%.

I opted for bronze seacocks, not fancy plastic.  The bronze seacocks are bombproof and the originals had lasted almost 40 years which worked for me.

I opted for the top of the line Groco BV seacocks because (1) I wanted them to last the full 40 years and (2) the thru-hulls and seacocks seemed like the absolute worst place to try to save money.  The seacocks and thru hulls themselves were the most expensive part of this project; parts were 54% of the cost of this project.

Chainplates

Chainplates were a survey item:

Before any long voyage, suggest removal, inspection and re-bedding of the port and stbd fwd lower shroud chainplates.

I figured getting them all inspected and re-bedded while the mast was down was a good thing to have checked.

This project was all labor and it cost less than half of what Johanson estimated.

This is my heading for the canvas work I had done.  None of this was on the survey nor on my radar really but Johanson noted some canvas work that should be done.

The jib was not going to last but the main sail, mainsail cover and dodger will probably last years if I take good care of them.   So I opted to have that work done.

Transmission

This was the biggest surprise.  I had the diesel inspected by a diesel mechanic and he did not notice any problems.  I had always felt the transmission shifted roughly but I figured it was merely showing its age.

Getting Counterpoint from the dock I dropped her off at into their hangar Max from Johanson also noticed the rough shifting and brought it up on our first call after they got the boat.  He found it concerning and wanted to pull the transmission and send it out to be serviced.  I didn’t want to run the chance of losing power maneuvering between million dollar yachts in a marina someday so I signed off on the work.

It turned out that the transmission needed a significant rebuild.  Johanson Boatworks also found that the shifting was so rough that several of the bolts connecting the transmission to the flywheel had sheared off.  The flywheel had to be pulled out of the engine to get everything put back together correctly.

Max Prop Service & Shaft Seal

These were both survey items.  The existing dripless shaft seal was corroding to the zinc used as a backup collar to keep it from leaking.  The Max Prop was working but the surveyor noticed it had enough play in its operation to justify servicing it.

Johanson installed a dripless stuffing box; I wasn’t even aware this was an option but given that the existing Dripless Shaft Seal was already setup to circulate engine cooling water it made sense.  A proper stainless steel collar was installed as a safety measure.

The Max Prop service was described by the max prop invoice as “routine”.

While the mast was down I had Johanson replace some of the wires and remove the old TV antenna.  

The survey noted I should inspect the base of the mast where it sits in the mast boot when it was next down.  It was in great shape.  Just to be safe the bottom of the mast that goes into the boot was painted to prevent corrosion.

Inspecting the base of the mast on a keel stepped mast is a very common note on surveys; it’s always suspect and unless the mast is out of the boat it’s impossible to truly inspect.

I did ask Johanson to fix the anchor light but they were unable to complete that project before Counterpoint left for the sailing season.  It’s some difficult to diagonse wiring problem that I still haven’t gotten to the bottom of 🙁

Paint Bottom

Johanson added a coat of ablative bottom paint to Counterpoint.  She was quicker early in the season due to this improvement in the bottom paint

During the season I had noted one of the deadlights and the centerboard block on deck were the most significant leaks.  I had Johanson rebed these while Counterpoint was being refit.  Not a drip since.

The deadlight could have been done whenever but the centerboard block was best done while she was on the hard and the centerboard supported.

Backup Bilge Pump

The survey indicated that the bilge pump would need to be replaced:

Recommend repairs to the automatic bilge pump.

It wasn’t actually broken though; it was just wired unusually.  The bilge pump has to be switched on at the breaker panel in order to work automatically.  Then there is a second switch to engage the bilge pump in manual mode.

I got it working the first day I stepped aboard.  The previous owner saw this recommendation and bought a replacement bilge pump and left it aboard; meaning Counterpoint came with a spare electric bilge pump.

While Johanson was comissioning the boat they noted that the bilge pump should be wired directly to the batteries and they wanted to fix it for me.  Instead I had them install a second bilge pump in the deep bilge above the existing “primary” bilge pump.  The secondary bilge pump is wired directly to the battery.  That way if the primary bilge pump fails the secondary bilge pump will kick in.  And if one pump of the two is working and can keep up with the water ingress the flooding will be limited to the deep bilge.

Miscellaneous

Johanson went over every system as a part of commissioning.  They found and fixed lots of little things.  The “full service boat yard” service was reassuring, like an additional post refit survey where they fixed all the little things (and a few medium things) they found.

They fixed a handful of small problems.  A new sump pump for the aft shower.  New strainers everywhere.  Replacing a shower head.  Other assorted bits.  But mostly this item was the time taken verifying each system and giving S/V Counterpoint a deep clean after her very dusty refit.

Diesel Leak

Unfortunately one problem snuck under the radar.  About an hour and a half into our delivery from Penobscot Bay to Boston Harbor I went below to look over the diesel and noticed a diesel leak in the fuel return system.  It looked to be an old problem that the previous owner had fixed with JBWeld but the repair had failed and diesel was spurting out.

The leak a seep at all at idle speeds but as the RPMs went up diesel was spurting out:

We could have completed the delivery under sail just using the diesel for maneuvering into the docks at low RPMs.  Unfortunately some internet sleuthing while underway indicated the part necessary was no longer available from Westerbeke so some custom fabricating or tricky repair would probably be necessary.

I decided to turn around, pass on a diesel shower to kick off the season and let the professionals take care of this final repair.

Johanson repaired the fuel return line and Counterpoint was ready to go again by the following weekend. I SAY AGAIN: Johanson repaired the fuel return line and Counterpoint was ready to go again by the following weekend! Somehow they managed to get Counterpoint ready in less than a week during the busiest part of their year. If you’ve ever tried to get ahold of a boat yard during that time of year you’ll understand how impressive that is.

Conclusions

Maybe what you take away from this article is don’t buy a project boat.  That’s a good lesson to learn with somebody else’s money.  Congratulations!

As I said above, knowing what I know about the refit and having lived with the results for two seasons I would do it the same way for the most part.

What Would I Have Done Differently?

If I had known that the transmission work would wind up costing $4k and that there was a diesel fuel leak on the engine that cost $1k to repair I probably would have had Counterpoint’s diesel replaced.  The back of the napkin numbers I’ve gotten for re-powering Counterpoint were all around $25k; the $5k of surprise diesel work was 20% of a re-power that I’ll probably want done during the next 5 years.

A re-power would have saved me getting a quick diesel shower from the leak, aborting my first delivery to Counterpoint’s summer slip (which was my most expensive cab ride ever on top of the 5k) and the adventure of sailing back onto the mooring after the sun had gone down.

I would have made the problem with the anchor light known to Johanson earlier so that it could have been remedied while the mast was down.

I can’t think of anything else. There were no issues with the boat that kept me from enjoying the 2020 sailing season or living aboard for two months during that season.

S/V Counterpoint Article Series

If you care to read more about my journey buying Counterpoint checkout the additional articles below:

• How I chose my Bluewater Sailboat
• Bluewater Sailboat Purchase Process
• Fuel Tank and Water Tank Replacement Project
• My Bristol 45.5’s 40 Year Refit (this article)
• 45’ Blue Water Boat Cost of Ownership
• S/V Counterpoint: Bluewater Sailboat Video Tour

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Reader Interactions

May 24, 2022 at 12:28 pm

Did you quit blogging? I was looking forward to the rest of the story.

May 26, 2022 at 10:03 pm

Nope, just took the winter off sailing and blogging too. Season starts this weekend though 🙂

January 15, 2024 at 2:05 pm

Thanks for sharing your story! It really helps to get a feeling for all the costs and adventures on the technical side 🙂

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Hey John. About a year into a refit here. So far we’ve repowered and just finished completely gutting the electrical. Going to replace all rigging and sails before leaving to cruise. No electronics so to speak. Will replace stove (convert to propane). Already replaced the head. We kept a very very detailed cost budget and so far we’re 50k into it including purchase price on a W32. That isn’t bad. The fact of the matter is that we aren’t rich people and want to go cruising before kids. Our only option seemed to be getting a boat cheap and then making it safe and comfortable but NOT PERFECT (accepting that). We just don’t have the time/money to save up the 100+K it would cost to buy a boat turn key ready that we liked. The refit time is fun for us so we don’t consider it a cost. Its a hobby for the weekend.

So far our estimates have been right. And we were honest with ourselves from the beginning asking… “What if we have to replace EVERYTHING?” I think that is key, going in with eyes open initially. Second thing that has helped us greatly is that we know the boat will not be perfect or bristol. Our goals are Safe/Comfortable. Thats key to us right now.

Obviously we’re not done yet so we can’t give a full report but hopefully it works out!

Sounds like you are doing a good job and I think you are absolutely right that one of the secrets of success is to stay away from perfection. As a friend says, “perfection is the enemy of good”.

Having said that, I did find the survey’s comment of only having inspected 5% of the hull disturbing. This is a big problem area in refits and a real catch-22: To properly survey an old boat you should really take her completely apart. But no owner is going to let you do that, and who is going to pay for it?

Do keep in mind that you won’t know the real cost until you have done your first ocean crossing and fixed the punch list from that. Bob was pretty happy until after his first crossing.

Thats really the crux of the matter. To figure it all out you have to destroy the boat, but to destroy the boat wouldn’t be worth having it all figured out. In the end we bought a boat known to be stout and friendly for cruisers though slow and old. Its a dice roll. Lets hope it pans out.

I like the quote about not letting the perfect be the enemy of the good. Falls in line with my favorite rule… The 80/20 rule. If the last 20% costs as much as the first 80% of a job it usually isn’t worth doing. (Unless its safety related.)

Hi John We went the start from scratch route and built a 45′ aluminum cutter designed by Ted Brewer. Buying used and doing a refit scared me, as there are too many unknowns. We took 11 years to build her, but that was the schedule, and launched in 2010. Total costs were just over 300,000 and somewhere around 5500 hours. We are leaving Georgian Bay in June and heading to the east coast of Canada, then wintering in the Caribbean. I teach Intermediate and Advanced Cruising, which enabled me to sail 1000’s of miles on other peoples boats while constructing my own. Whether it be a refit or complete build, keeping motivated and being able to sail during the project is key to its success. Check out the results of our labour at voyageursailing.com or on Facebook Your website has been a great resource throughout the project. Thank you! Ken

Great comment, thank you.

I think you make a really good point. Your cost of $300,000 is not a lot more than poor Bob spent (when adjusted for inflation) and the two of you have about the same number of hours in. But you have a brand new metal boat that you know every inch of. Sounds like a way better deal than Bob got!

Of course, you won’t know your final costs until after you fix the inevitable problems after your first ocean crossing. But hopefully with your offshore experience you will have anticipated many of the common problems during the build.

Of course another way to look at it is that with your hours at just $20/hour, the cost of your boat is well over $400,000. Only about 20% less than a brand new Boreal 47 . That confirms to me the old adage that if you want to build your own boat for the experience of doing it, great. But building a boat to save money, is a bit of a fallacy.

Hi Bob, Great to hear that your second boat marriage turned out to be all sunshine and trade winds. However every good director should have alternative scripts in mind in case story line changes in mid filming.

Bob: Alt. Script: After recovering from his financially devastating experience trying to turn the Fastnet 45 into the ideal cruising boat, Bob went looking for a brand new boat at the Annapolis boat show. There sitting on the used boat brokerage dock was the perfect boat. Sturdy aluminum hull with gorgeous lines that made all the new boats look like ugly ducklings. Ten feet longer than the Fastnet for little more than he had put into the earlier boat. Sure she needed paint on the topsides and new standing rigging, but weren’t those teak decks pretty? Passed survey with flying colors. Of course the surveyor didn’t climb the mast, and when the rigger went up with microscope in hand to measure for the new rigging he found numerous cracks in the mast track and spreader areas. Perfect time to replace it with a carbon mast for only 50K more. A few weeks later the bilge pumps started working full time. Hauled her out and stripped the bottom to bare metal. All those black peppercorns in the metal that you could push a screwdriver all the way through? Of course the surveyor couldn’t have been expected to strip the fairing off the bottom or trace out every ground from the generator and shore power AC system—–.

Moral of the story: Beware of Boat Lust! Fat chance of that— that’s like telling guys to not look at pretty girls.

Yikes, Richard, what did Poor Stupid Bob, ever do to you?

As we say in Bermuda, your roughed him right up. 🙂

ciao John, my approce to a new boat is a little different from a refitting route,i try to buy the best custom (for my very personal taste) new hull and rig i can afford and do the basic systems myself,i usually do not thrust profesionals,live with a moked up interiors untill my bank account is a little happier and than little by little make her into a fully finished boat.i could write about the pro and cons for hours but my english not is not good enought.The final budget might be a little higher then a yard finished boat but the experience and the knowledge of our floating,’baby,, is immense

Hi Giancarlo,

Never worry about your English, you get the point across perfectly. Some of the best boats I have ever seen were built by a dedicated and knowledgeable individual like you, Andy or Ken.

In fact “Morgan’s Cloud” came into being in just that way. Tragically her builder died before he ever saw her launched, but his work and dedication live on in a great boat that we are privileged to be owned by.

Now to practice my brilliant Italian: Ciao!

Hi John, A great story with I guess a predictable Bob, but was it that bad for you? Knowledge, experience and wisdom are hard earned! And you are now wiser and older but you are still going sailing. Like Ken we have also gone down the new build aluminium route. It has been a hard and long- six years with perhaps 6 months to go. But what I would say is that we have enjoyed every day of it. My wife has learned to be a professional varnish sprayer and we have had the chance to work together three or so days a week- We know the boat inside out. It should never be about saving a buck. It should be about enjoyment, some folk’s are happy to charter a boat for their whole lives, others want really know their boat but they both go sailing. Enjoy the wind, it is still free. Andy

Perfectly said, building a boat from scratch must be about enjoying the process.

I have thought of it several times, but each time I was deterred by having to spend 6 to 10 years ashore doing the build. To miss that big a hunk out of the incredible 20 years of sailing that I have had on the present “Morgan’s Cloud” is, for me, just too high a price to pay.

As Andy said, Bob (or John, Jim, Bernard and all the others) are still sailing today. If they had not bought that fixer upper (as I just did) they might have bought a summer camp (in need of repair) because they just could not afford a new or almost new boat. Buying an older boat and refitting it is what most of us can (or think we can) afford, and it allows us to dream about sailing the seven seas (or just one).

Bob’s problem was more that he wanted the perfect boat, and for that you have to build from scratch (like the Model T, now Adventure 40) or be filthy rich. Ok, just very rich as there is nothing filthy about being rich.

I can’t afford a new boat large enough to sail around the world, but could afford a decent boat in need of some fixing, so from now on I’ll spend half my time sailing around the world, and half fixing the beast. Better than working another 10 years until I can afford a new boat, but be 65 and in such a bad shape that it will have to be a trawler (or a Catamaran ;-).

Yes, I heard that thought, and yes I have changed the standing rigging and overhauled the engine to get these reliable at first. Priorities are safety, seaworthiness, and maybe one day creature comfort.

Don’t wait till you can afford a new boat, be a Bob and go for it. However, if you read the information on this site (the best there is) you might be luckier and do much better than Bob because many Bobs are generously sharing all of their knowledge to prevent some of us from doing the same mistakes !

Thanks Bob for such a great story. But you did not manage to scare me (it was too late anyway ;-).

Hi Jacques,

That’s a very good point. That the right kind of refit boat can allow you to do at least some sailing while refitting. Poor Stupid Bob did get to sail his boat quite a bit during the six year refit saga, although it must be said that a lot of that sailing was done with a wet bunk!

A new boat was never an option for us. We simply did not have the money to buy new or even new-er. We ended up with a 30-year old Tartan 42 that needed a lot of work. We’re living on the boat 1/2 the week and working on her as we go along. .. 12 months to push off the dock and go cruising. Whatever is done then is what we have.

Thanks for a good post though. There certainly is a point at which some have to cut their losses and move on. I’m hoping we don’t get to that point.

Deb S/V Kintala http://www.theretirementproject.blogspot.com

I enjoy every bit of the retrofit, as much as I enjoy every bit of the sailing. Not much sea mileage on my own yet bit I am learning, and a fair bit from your website. Keep it up, it’s really appreciated.

As for being honest and talking about the cost and problem of retrofitting, here is my story so far:

I bought the boat a year ago (that’s my fifth boat, all others smaller as I was on a lake in Canada) and I had some experience with fixer-uppers, as this is what I can afford. I always sold the boat for what I invested in them, most of the time not including my time, but that is what I call gaining knowledge and experience. Let say I am better at it now than 20 years ago.

So, bought a steel sloop in the Caribbean, 38 footer designed by Sylvestre Langevin, that was built in France (Meta, they are know to do it well) and that was definitely finished and equipped well. The boat went around once, and was maintained good for most of it’s life. 20 years later, it was quite fine but the first owner, quite older by then (only 77, but decided that golfing was more appropriate) had been a little sloppier with maintenance. Not a good thing for a steel boat. But overall, just some rust, and nothing that a younger dude could cope with. Being the young dude (53) I got the crap out of it in little time. Now I do know that “little time” means that I will have to put that much every year to keep it up, but that is steel boat unless you did as good as your other story!

Anyhow, beside it being steel, it was a good deal probably. The previous owner told me what to expect, what had to be done and he was pretty good and honest I think.

OK, you all want numbers! I paid 25K$ for the boat. All sails (Genoa 140, 120, 100, storm main, storm jib, spinnaker and reacher) were like new (some unused) but the main I replaced (1600$ from fareastsail). The engine has 4000hrs, but it’s a Perkins 4.108 so can probably do twice that much! I did a good overall on it and it all seem good now. I has a Honda generator (mostly new), a KISS windmill (50$ was my cost to rebuilt it in half a day), and mosy of what you need for a circumnavigation, including spares (too much of these I would say). All systems are just fine. The ocean rated liferaft has been due for testing for 5 years, but I plan on getting a new one in a canister. I got a new bimini cover (500$) and spent 2500$ on a new Caribe inflatable to replace the hard Boston Whaler (too heavy to be practical) , but the 15hp mercure is quite fine. Changed the standing rigging (it looked good, but the insurance did not like it’s age) for another 3000$. All electronics is quite good (ok, the HAM is an IC735 so not the latest model) but the sextant work like new!

I don’t like the color of the cushion but what the heck, can change that at some point.

Overall, got more boat that I could afford, and I am hoping that I don’t gt as many problems as Bob did. On the other hand, I hope I will have as much fun and exciting adventures as Bob did!

By the way, not a drop, a very dry boat. Even the bilge is dry. The previous owner did not even install a bilge pump! I did, as I could no believe it. But no wet bunk yet.

I am In Martinique for a while, if you come around I’ll be glad to show you this beauty. Rust included !

Thanks for the really interesting comment. Great to have a story with numbers on a steel boat refit.

This is a great post and blew me away because just this morning I saw an ad for a Cape Dory 36 for just $49K, or about half market value. I caught myself fantasizing about checking it out and buying this boat, fixing her up and selling her on. I knew it was a fool’s dream but still….then I read this post.

Since AAC is, hands down, my favorite website and since I have learned far more from you than I have contributed over the years, I will give you my experiences with numbers since you asked.

We have done two refits. My first was my first boat, a Cape Dory 33, 1981 vintage purchased in 1996 for $45K. She was a great boat and in fair condition but had only been used as a weekender. As my ambitions were more of the blue water type, I spent two years (weekends mostly) and another $45K to get her up to snuff: all new standing rigging (Staylok), new running rigging, converted her to a cutter and added two roller furlers, new anchor and chain (no windlass), sea anchor, propane and new Force 10 stove, Icom SSB, new dinghy + o/b (Avon), new liferaft (Avon) and a Monitor windvane.

Result: she was the best equipped and most beautiful CD 33 out there – and the most expensive. I sailed her for 2 years around Long Island Sound – Nantucket and then another year and half in the NW Caribbean. I finally sold her in Florida for….$45K (!).

Our second boat was a Tayana 52, 1988 vintage which we purchased for $185 K in 2001. She was also in great shape but required work to take offshore. This time I was with my wife so we spent more on making her comfortable than I did on my bachelor boat above. Over again, a 2 year period, we spent $50K putting on new teak decks (we were in Thailand at the time and it was cheap), new standing rigging and lifelines, new life raft, converted her to a cutter as well with a roller furler, new propane system and F10 stove, new dodger and bimini, new RIB dinghy + 15 hp Yamaha, new Trojan we cell batteries (1,000 AH) + Heart interface and Heart inverter/charger, new upholstery and cushions, new toilet (electric – the wife demanded it!), new curtains, all new freshwater pumps, sump pumps and bilge pumps and probably a few other things I can’t remember.

We sailed her in total for about 3 years, living aboard the whole time, from Asia to Europe and finally sold her in Barcelona, Spain in 2005 for…..$185K!

What have I learned from all this? Well, my refits are getting cheaper considering the size differential in boats. I also think that “losing” $50K on the second boat after living on her and cruising through so many great countries for three years with my wife on our honeymoon was a price worth paying. Would we do it again?

Well, we just bought our third boat, an Oyster 53, 2002 vintage that requires some work. Hopefully, not much work and hopefully it will be worth it. I will let you know in 5 years or so…

Thanks very much for a great comment full of really useful information. I do note that your refit boats are getting younger with each buy. The latest is just ten years old. Sounds to me like you started off smart, and are getting smarter from experience.

It is worth it. I saved for 10 years hoping to buy an expensive boat in pristine condition. I backed out of a deal on one at the last minute when I realized that I was about to spend five or six years worth of cruising kitty. So instead of a 120k 45 footer I ended up with a 2k 30 footer that needed a total refit.

I am in the throes of that refit now. I have to say that your friends experience does make me think wth am I doing?!? I have actually thought that since the very beginning but I plod forward anyway. I knew going in that I was going to replace everything from sole to masthead. In the end I will put about 25k to 30k in a boat worth 5k but hey, I will also know that boat very intimately and I did not spend my life savings!

Your friend bought a great big, soft boat that was rode hard and put up wet. He made some bad decisions like the rebuilt engine for instance. He obviously was not prepared for the task and in this case probably would have been best served buying a new boat.

It is very interesting to read the experiences of the other commentors. Thank you for raising this discussion.

I could not agree more about Poor Stupid Bob’s mistakes. As you say, he was not prepared for the task, despite 20 years of small boat ownership. But that’s the thing is it not? He took advice and got a survey. He was assured by a professional diesel mechanic that the rebuilt 4.108 had plenty of life in it. Everyone told him that the Fastnet was a great boat. After all, she had only done some 20,000 miles.

The point is that this is just another catch-22 on the road to a good offshore boat at a reasonable price: you need to have owned and maintained an offshore boat to know how to buy an offshore boat and refit it.

Oh one other thing: I don’t call my friends stupid unless I know them really, really well. As I wrote in the post, Bob’s real life name is…John.

I think there are some essential truths about successfully buying old and doing a refit : (1) buy QUALITY of original construction—and by that I mean don’t be too concerned about its age and don’t be swayed by advertising hype or current popularity —I think boats from the mid-to-late ’80s were over-built compared to todays charter-specials and thats what I went looking for (2) have it COMPLETELY SURVEYED (as a newby I paid for seperate surveys by (a) a marine surveyor (b) a marine diesel mechanic (c) a qualifed ships rigger and (d) a sail shop and have had no surprises even after 7 years (3) BUDGET for your upgrades/refit so you are not too starry eyed —I think a rough estimate is to expect to pay about 50% of your original cost in upgrades & refits (4) accept that YOUR REFIT DOLLARS ARE LOST FOREVER—realize and accept the fact that most if not all of your refit/upgrade dollars will never be recovered when you resell—it is and always will be an older boat that will appeal to a limited market and now all those refits that you did are again now old and in need of replacement (5) DO IT YOURSELF—take courses and learn and don’t be afraid to try and do as many repairs yourself as possible —sure you will make some mistakes but thats how you learn and most likely they will NOT be fatal and finally (6) DON’T WAIT —if you wait to get it all done or to save up for that ‘perfect’ boat then the only cruising you will be doing is on a cruise ship —Anyhow that my 2 cents worth —1986 GOZZARD —bought for about $100K, sunk about $50K into it over 7 years (not counting my own time or things like solar panels, liferaft and a watermaker —which you won’t find included in a new boat price)—boat was recently surveyed and in these tough times still has a market value of about what I paid for it Besides if you are too overly concerned about the dollars you’ll be spending then you won’t go cruising in the first place —nobody has ever said that cruising made economic sense!! Fair Winds Foothillsailor —in Mexico

A great list and very accurate, I think. The two caveats I would add are:

• Even with the very best specialized surveyors you really can’t be at all sure that you know of all the problems an old boat has before buying it since surveys don’t include major disassembly, which is sadly often a pleasure reserved for the new owner!
• I think your estimate of 50% of purchase price for a good refit is on the low end of a range that I would define as 50% to 150%.

John, Interesting read as it so mirrors my experience. Early on when cruising with 3 children on a Sabre 28 was getting a bit cosy, we happened along a LeComte Northeast 38 (Bill Tripp design and, in looks, a sister ship to a Bermuda 4o, but sails much better) which had sunk and was a complete insurance write off which we bought in auction. We re-fitted her mostly ourselves and I learned a ton. We coastal cruised that boat very happily for 15 years, but ran into some of the issues described. This was easier to bear as we bought it much cheaper. It was on our first serious off shore passage that we discovered that it was not (no longer?) an offshore boat, again in the ways Bob described. We then bought a 2 year old Valiant 42 on which we have lived for 10 years, a boat which fit our criteria of being much stronger and smarter than we are. Dick Stevenson, s/v Alchemy

Thanks, John. We’re thinking about trading up to a larger boat for extended cruising with our family of four. I will remember this post every time I consider purchasing an older boat with an eye towards “fixing her up.”

Dear John, Bought an unfinished wooden Gillmrer 32′ gaff rig ketch! $25K. Spent two years and a few thousand dollars getting her ready to launch. Sailed around Nantucket Sound for 3 summers. Back on land: re did the interior to our liking a job which continues (should mention that I am a professoional cabinetmaker married to a professional painter). Sail and live aboard every summer. Some “problems” still vex us, ie. extreme prop walk under power (help?). We have gone coastal crusing for 12 years, perhaps 35K and some years of work invested. Of course nomal maintenence continues too as it would for any boat. Sounds like we were just lucky. ps. what surprises me are adverts for good boats like a 5 year old Morris with a factory refit of 200K: what happened? cheers, Eric and Sue

Sounds like it has worked out very well. I think your experience emphasizes what an advantage in refitting it can be to have relevant skills before you start.

After four big refits, I have a whole bunch of skills that I really never wanted to have. Grinding fiberglass prior to fixing secondary bonding problems is one that comes to mind!

We’ve owned 2 sailboats, the first was a Hunter 37 Cutter which will bring groans from most everyone here. But we refit and cruised on a slim budget while many at the dock still talk about going 20+ years later. The second, which I’m sitting on as I type this, is a Cheoy Lee Midshipman, far from new. We still regularly make repairs and upgrades. If we’d had to put out the funds a new boat costs, we’d have never gone anywhere.

But the real reason for this comment concerns new boats. I have friends who’ve bought some fairly nice boats, and I’ve delivered a few. My experience has been that a new boat is no guarantee that things will go well. And you’re going to have to be real careful of which yard and who in that yard does installations or upgrades or you’re no better off.

Very good point on the problems that new boats can bring. I have two friends—real this time, not pretend, like Bob—who have had terrible experiences with very expensive new boats.

A refit worked for us. We bought a lightly-used boat with ‘good bones’ (1981 Baba 35) in 2008 for $75k. It had been refitted a few years earlier for a circumnavigation which didn’t happen. So, most systems were there and were top-quality, but, the maintenance had been let go and quite a few needed repair and/or upgrading. If you’re new at it, I think it’s easier to understand and repair/replace something that’s already there rather than try and install from scratch.

Boat sat at the dock for two years while we finished up work commitments. Then, we took absolutely everything off the boat and spent four full-time months putting it back together. We spent about $50k. The biggest expenses weren’t on the boat so much (that was mostly just our labour), it was all the new offshore gear i.e. windvane, liferaft, epirb, para-anchor, storm jib, flares, AIS, spares etc. (about $15k) and professional help for things we felt we couldn’t do ourselves. We spent about $12k on a diesel mechanic, $7k for upholstery/canvas work and $5k for a cabinetmaker. We also replaced chainplates and running rigging.

Our shake-down was a 51 day North Atlantic crossing. We only had three problems, we blew the mainsail out in a F9 (luckily only 200 miles from landfall), the diesel generator died and we also took on a lot of water. In hindsight, we probably should have replaced the sails rather than just cleaning, restitching and adding a third reef. Otherwise, the boat felt safe and performed as expected. The unhappy realization though, was that it is a cold, wet boat in the high latitudes. Insulation and passive heat are hard to retrofit properly, so, we’re resigned to it. If we were to do it again, that would be the highest priority item we would look for. The other top priority would be a metal hull. Having said that, reading some of the other posts about maintenance issues on older metal boats would make us really nervous about buying somebody else’s rustbucket….

Great comment. Full of the wisdom that only experience brings. So much good stuff, but the thing that jumped out at me was your point that it is easier to understand something already there.

Very interesting post and I believe there are many Bob’s among us. Just one thought though to make it even more interesting. Some of you have touched this already:

Is a “new” boat perfect when you get it? How much does it cost to make it perfect? I know of a few very recently bought boats where a complete survey would have revealed some serious problems and where the owners have fought expensive legal battles to no avail. Fixing has again been costly. Some say that an old boat have many of it’s possible weaknesses found, known and sometimes corrected. A new boat is still untested.

Also, I guess that the bigger the boat, the more difficult to save on a refit. Does anyone agree? So if a smaller boat is even a option, could that change these dynamics, or is that just wishful thinking..?

Really good points. And yes, I think you might be right in saying that smaller boats are easier to refit right without getting eaten alive.

I was 10, my kid brother was 7.. It was a Saturday and we must have been going thru our Mother like “a dose of the salts”.. She told Dad to get us out of the house, “Now..!!” He took us that Saturday afternoon to the local theatre to see Walt Disney’s “Swiss Family Robinson” and man—that was it..!! Since that day, my life-long dream has been to sail to the South Pacific, finish out my days living in a “Swiss Family Robinson Treehouse”..

While I was in high school, my best friends father owned a 33′ Morgan.. During the summers of my junior and senior years, we sailed from our hometown in Sarasota, Florida down to Boca Grande, 10,000 Islands and into the Florida Keys.. Pound for pound, probably the best days of my life..

After 27 years of chasing a career in the entertainment business, living on 4 of the earth’s continents, I came home 19 months ago to find my Fathers health failing and battling Alzheimer’s, my Mother diabetic and in the latter stages of Dementia.. I pulled the plug on my career to stay home and look after the both of them..

It seems now more than ever, my childhood dream is alive and calling.. I have time on my hands to be working on and preparing a vessel that can help make my boyhood dreams come true.. But most certainly, not the kind of money that this article is speaking of..

4 years ago I began researching / internet shopping and veiwing vessels 1st hand while still living overseas.. In 2010 alone I viewed 37 vessels located thru out Florida.. In my opinion, only 3 really could “cut the mustard”, carry me safely to a South Pacific destination.. All needed work..

After reading this write up and all of the replies to “Are Refits Worth it..??”, in all honesty, I feel somewhat devastated, bewildered and disillusioned by the article itself and the replies.. Refits must be worth it, they have to be, I simply refuse to believe that they aren’t..

The vessels most all speak of, are the size of AmTrac rail cars and dump astronomical amounts of cash and lterally thousands of hours and years refitting / outfitting / repairing before setting sail.. I always thought the “name of the game” wasn’t to get in “way over your head” with a behemouth that sucks the life out of you, stuck “on the hard” or tied to the dock but, to be out sailing—living the dream.. Big boats, big bucks.. Small boats, much smaller bucks.. Why aren’t more people “scaling down”..??

For me, a new blue water vessel is not an option.. I must buy an older vessel, refit / repair / upgrade.. If the Polyinesians could discover new continents while sailing outrigger canoes and the average vessel that is now circumnavigating is between 24 to 27 feet in length, well, I’ll “go small”, prepare as best I can, roll the dice and say a ton of prayers along the way..

“Dream big and big dreams happen—if one only applies himself and never gives up..” I think John Forsyth’s reply is right on the money.. #6: Don’t Wait.. All one can do is prepare the best one can and I don’t have the kind of money and years left, that so many here have spoke of..

Hi Richard,

What a wonderful comment. Please don’t let us take away your dreams. On the other hand, I don’t ever want this site to to be a purveyor of marketing based rubbish, like many of the magazines, that gives people unrealistic expectations that in turn ruin their dreams.

Starting from a base of reality is one of the best ways to make dreams come true and it sounds to me like you have taken that to heart with your decision to down-size.

Getting emotionally attached to an older boat can make it hard to assess things objectively. And objectivity is critical when considering a potential refit.

I’ll make reference to smaller power boats, since that’s my field. My favourite boat for many years was my grandfather’s 1986 Peterborough runabout. It was a sleek little thing and a good workhorse; it’s the boat that took us to the family cottage, that all of us learned to ski behind, etcetera. A few years ago, its Cobra drive sheared a shaft (in the middle of a nearly deserted lake, of course).

After that repair, my grandfather and I took stock of the current condition of everything else in the 20-year-old boat. There was some spongy plywood, corrosion on the fuel tank, the wiring was starting to fail, spare parts for the sterndrive were no longer available, and you had to remove the flame arrestor and pour two tablespoons of gas down the carb throat to get her to start if she’d been sitting more than a week. From what we knew about her construction, she’d likely need new stringers and a new transom if the drivetrain were to be replaced.

So Grandpa made the call- the memories and sentimental value of that boat couldn’t justify a refit that would cost more than an equivalent new boat.

I’m currently working on a new boat for my wife and I. We have a weird mix of requirements that aren’t met by anything we can find at a reasonable price, so we’re building from scratch. There will probably be about $30k in materials and equipment, and about that much again in our labour, that goes into the boat. We’re designing her with 15-20 and 30-40 year refits in mind: there will be conduits for easy replacement of wiring and hoses, there will be sole hatches larger than the tanks they hide, there’s easy access to the back side of all the deck hardware, and there’s space to swing a tool behind every piece of equipment on board (except for the bilge pumps).

It is not hard to design a boat with refits in mind. It’s just that if you’re building a thousand of them, it’s cheaper to put most systems together while the joinery’s on the shop floor and the deck is still hanging from the crane, in which case many obvious access and maintenance problems will go unnoticed.

A lot of really good points, as always. Poor Stupid Bob would have been way better off if he had dumped the boat for whatever he could get for it after the first voyage, but he was emotionally invested, not to speak of just plain bull-headed. But then as a friend just said to me after hitting his head on our dodger “if you are going to be stupid, you better be tough”.

Also, a good point about designing with refits in mind.

Is it worth it? I’ll offer my answer below, but first a little story.

For years and years I dreamed and saved for a boat. I had an excellent idea of the boat I wanted, but – no matter how I saved – I couldn’t afford it. And here I’m talking about buying a used boat – a new boat was way out of my income zone. I thought: be patient, keep saving, eventually you’ll buy the boat you want.

Then – on August 28, 1997 – something unexpected happened. I had (for the first time ever) chest pain and then a pain in my left arm. I was, at age 43, having a massive heart attack. Happily, I survived the ‘widowmaker’ – a LAD blockage. (No, I wasn’t overweight, my cholesterol was good,my blood pressure was normal, I didn’t drink much, I didn’t smoke, I didn’t have diabetes, there was no family history of this, etc. ). So, there I was in a hospital bed in the critical care unit with lines in both arms all hooked up to heart monitoring machines and I said to myself – “This is crazy! You’ve been saving up for years for a boat and you almost died!”. So, I made a vow then and there to look for a boat as soon as I got released from the hospital and then live aboard that boat (at .least during summers) beginning the next summer.

This I did. I bought a boat (a 27′ Danish-made fiberglass sloop) less than two months after being released from the hospital. Instead of looking for an ‘ideal boat’ which I couldn’t afford, I re-set my goal: buy a smaller boat which you can afford NOW. As I knew what kind of boat I liked, once I made that decision the rest wasa pretty easy.

I’ve had a couple of other used boats since (my current boat is a 35’9″ steel sloop) and have spent the last 13 summers living aboard and sailing singlehanded 10-12 weeks per year, mostly in New England. I figure I’ve spent roughly 143 weeks at sea over that period and about 910 nights at anchor.

Well, I’d rather be sailing full-time but I need to work to pay for the sailing and for the health benefits. It’s not the ‘ideal’ solution, but it works for me. (yes, I’m a ‘teacher’ – a ‘college professor’ actually).

And, that gets me to the question you asked – ‘is it worth it?’. This is a question which can’t be answered just in dollars and sense because it also involves *time*: time saving and time refitting. For me the answer was: buy a boat now which you can afford and doesn’t require a lot of spending and time now to re-fit. There have been some financial bumps along the path adopting this philosophy, but it got me out on the water quicker doing what I love to do.

Before you think about spending years more saving and/or refitting a boat, remember the cruel jokes life can play on us. What would you rather do – go sailing now or die while your bank account grows to the desired goal? Carpe diem!

Hi John, Nice article here. I have done two refits and now we are having a new boat built in France. The first refit took 6 years of weekend work and it was tough to do as it was so drawn out. The second boat a Mason 44 that had just completed a 9 year circumnavigation was in pretty good shape. The log books showed a lot of work had been done throughout the 9 years. But nine years means big refits, new rigging, lots of new wire runs, I put in a new engine not because it needed it, 4000 hours but because the newer engine same HP was smaller and a lot easier to work on and maintain and of course we put in all new electronics. That work took about 1.5 years half of it full time 8 to ten hours a day. The good thing was that 80 % of spare parts were on board that were needed for extended cruising so that saved a lot of money. Always check out your spare parts when buying a used boat and make sure they are in good condition and come with the boat. We got the boat for a steal, 90 K less than all other Mason 44,s on the market at same age. So we put that 90 K into her and felt great about leaving port. We actually sold her for 6000 more than we paid and put into her when we got to NZ. We were lucky as all other boats that crossed the pacific that year up for sale went really cheap.

But what I would like to say to those thinking about buying a new boat for extended cruising is that you must understand that a new boat costs a lot more than the selling price. That selling price is a base price with no add on. It is amazing at what the cost runs when you start outfitting a new boat for blue water cruising. When you add on from the factory to install extras and you will need the extras prices seem high but remember factory labor is included to install extras. Next one must figure out what spare parts they will need as the boat will not come with spares like a used boat normally does when sold. No 80 % of spare parts in a new boat. After you pick up your new boat most likely you will need a new dink, motor, dishes, electronics, pots and pans, blankets, custom fit sheets and just let your mind run wild. We figure that we will spend about 1/3 more than base price. We were lucky that we talked with cruisers that had bought new boats before and were prepared for what a new boat really costs. In buying a new serious cruising boat I think one just about puts as much effort into it as rebuilding a good older boat just not as dirty or as tough on the knuckles. We are also very lucky to have a great consultant who speaks boat French and who understands the type of boat we are having built. The extra cost of a good consultant will save you lots in time and effort and cost in the long run. Just a heads up for those thinking about buying a new boat, do your research first and figure out where you stand before signing the contract. Good Luck on your old or new boat.

Thanks for the great tips. One option to keep the costs of a new boat down is to go simple. We are hoping to get the Adventure 40 down to well under US$200,000, ready to sail around the world. I think its doable as long as buyers don’t load her up with a lot of electronics and mechanical gear like watermakers.

Very good point about the importance of having a build supervisor that speaks the local language. Colin is running a build in France for an American client as I write.

Congratulations on your new Boreal! And I second your comments about using the services of a consultant, especially when one as knowledgeable as Colin is available.

So many paths to, hopefully, a good sea boat. These paths are defined by personality, skill & experience, determination & the depth of one’s pocket-book.

I spent a lotta dough – I never divulge how much, sorrreeee Bob! – on a 20 yr old Colin Archer. This boat was built by one man, showed superb craftsmanship, consistency & thoughtfulness throughout, had everything I wanted & much more that I discovered afterwards, and I brought her on the spot without a survey. Truly dumb, but my instincts were right on. Refitting after 4 yrs of ownership was negligible.

Refitting consisted of a 2nd salt water pump to increase engine coolant circulation, an alternator, 4 anchors, 2 hand held GPS, a fish finder, a drogue & 2 US military surplus chutes, various bits of stainless steel ironmongery custom fabricated, an EPIRB, 2 dinkies, interior lighting, fishing tackle, crab traps, paper charts & tubes, ropes. The biggest problem was dry rot in the upper third of the main mast, and I scarfed in the replacement at a do-it-yourself yard.

It helped that long ago I learned to ignore the materialism of the US yacht industry that promotes all sorts of must-have stuff. Boating magazines made no sense & held no interest. It helps that I am impervious to advertising. Racing & yacht clubs are of no interest. I hardly ever got to sail others’ boats so have not been exposed to, & ‘educated’ in, what’s in fashion.

Compared to the writers on this site, I have a Neanderthal approach to sailing & navigation. I’m self taught & mostly figure things out on my own. Authors that resonate for me are Roth & the Pardeys. Fishermen, not yachtsmen, are my guide & their coops are my preferred source for needed paints, parts, foul weather gear etc.

My boat is way overbuilt by yachting standards. Fishermen who hate yachts love her. With such strength throughout, the margins are huge & this helps minimize replacement/refitting.

I sought a boat with my style in mind (Neanderthal not Cro-Magnon), knowing that compatibility would minimize refitting. It took a year of Internet cruising, then bingo.

Guess I was really lucky. Though 40 yrs of hacking around in boats & 15 yrs of carpentry & boatbuilding made my luck. A lot of dough up front, and pretty much nothing ever since for a boat in which I have enormous & growing confidence for serious adventure.

Great comment on a different way to come at the problem, clearly put.

Come on Nick, how much? We showed you ours.

Well I have to jump in here again. Too many comments about getting surveys for me to ignore. Since we were transitioning from a 27′ Compac to a 42′ Tartan, we paid dear money (nearly $3K) for a full survey required by Boat US for insurance, a mechanical survey done by Crowley’s in Chicago, a rigging survey done by a contract worker hired by Crowley’s, and had some spreader bracket welding done by a welder contracted by Crowley’s to repair some cracks that came up in the rigging survey. It was ALL wasted money. The survey was a joke and to tell you the truth I don’t even know that the surveyor actually got on the boat. Much of the equipment he listed as being on the boat was not there at all or was a different brand. I later found a copy of the survey from 2 years before ours and was able to see that he had just copied the equipment list from that survey. The mechanical survey was a joke as most of the interior lights didn’t work, the sump box pump was shorted to ground, the fresh water pump impeller was toast, there was a quart of oil in the bilge which was full of water to the floorboards, the heater didn’t work, the head was falling off the base, there were holding tank vent hoses just cut off and laying in the v-berth lockers, the welding repair looked like swiss cheese…and on and on ad nauseum. The point is that we did everything right – we hired professionals who supposedly knew what we didn’t know to tell us what was wrong with the boat, but the fact remains that they didn’t do their jobs so we’re paying the price. I just don’t know how you avoid that situation other than through luck since we researched the boat yard and surveyors and all of the people involved came with high recommendations. In the end, you find a good original build quality boat in a price range you can afford, and roll the dice.

Thanks so much for your great comment. It takes courage to share that you have been ripped off with a large audience, but stories like yours are often the most useful. I wish I could tell you that yours was an isolated incident, but that’s not what I’m hearing when I talk to cruisers out there.

A few comments on the many informative experiences shared here:

1- For many of the ex-middle class purchasing an older boat is the only way we will ever be able to live our sailing adventure. 2-As soon as the budget reaches the level many commentators have spent on refits, a new purpose built K.I.S.S. 40 footer would be far more economical in the long run. 3- Rid yourself of the idea that small necessarily means economical. If you are not convinced, find the best wooden boat builder on your continent and have him bid on building an exact sister ship to the Pardey’s engineless 30 footer. At least $250,000 —. 4- Change the theme “Small is Beautiful” to K.I.S.S. 5- Before considering such an undertaking write down John & Phyllis’ mantra:

What Really Matters Keep the water out Keep the crew on the boat Keep the keel side down Keep the mast up Keep the rudder on (plus: Keep the anchor hooked up!) RDE The rest is small stuff.

Tape it over your bathroom mirror and read it every morning before you start looking for your project boat!

Then look for the largest boat you and your partner can comfortably handle that fits within your budget after upgrading to satisfy John’s mantra with 100% confidence!

Is a functioning refrigeration system along with the generator, solar panels, wind generator, alternator and controllers to keep it running at a cost of $10,000 to $20,000 more important than new standing rigging with Sta-loc terminals and a bulletproof staysail? Cold beer is nice but a standing mast is nicer!

My impression is that 80% of most refit budgets go to trying to make the boat just like home with all the latest comforts and sophisticated electronics rather than to prioritize the essentials and cast off the dock lines.

ps; When I was berating poor Bob for lusting after the perfect boat and relying upon a surveyor I should have used a different “moral of the story” . “Trust but Verify” —President Ronald Regan.

I’ve encountered surveyors far more competent than I who uncovered things I missed, but many are at best glorified clerks or boat salesmen. Would you buy a packaged MBS from a Goldman Sachs broker without first tearing it apart microscope in hand? Didn’t think so! Fool me once——.

Thanks so much, a great summary.

I had the same experience as Deb described. I surveyed the boat myself before buying it while it was out of the water. Rented a meter to check hull thickness (a steel boat) and dismantled about every panels I could to check it throughout (yes, for rust, but also for electrical, plumbing, insulation, etc.) and verified all systems. I spent 2 days going through it, slept on it, we got the boat in and went for a sail in 20 knot wind, all with the help of the owner.

I bought the boat as what I found needed fixing/improving was on the list provided by the old man, and was acceptable to me. I felt he was quite honest, and still think so a year later.

But the insurance company did not trust MY survey and asked for a REAL survey to be done. By then the boat was in the water. This guy was recommended by the insurance company (he was the only surveyor on the island anyway) and spent two hours on the boat, asked for a copy of the previous survey, looked around, asked to be raised to the top of the mast (a 230 lbs dead weight) to look at the rigging, and took a few photographs.

He found NOTHING on the list the old man had given me while I did. He filled a several page document with description of the “systems” which he took from the previous survey, he even had the nerve to present a thickness survey of the hull ! Remember, the boat is in the water ! Maybe there are new technologies that could allow that, but it would require for someone to get in the water, and definitely have a tool in hand !

As Deb described it, the list of instruments was partially wrong as some of the equipment had changed from the previous 10 years old survey. Then came the time to decide on the value of the boat for insurance purpose. Took him out for lunch and got an an extra 20K$ in boat value.

The cost of the survey was 650US$.

I got a survey, and got insured. Believe me, that is not what I use as a guide on what need fixing/improving on the boat. The only thing he got right was the need to change the standing rigging … because it was 20 years old !

To make this story funnier, my 20 years old Perkins 4.108, the original, was listed as a Yanmar !

Unfortunately, most can’t survey a boat themselves, so have to rely on a surveyor. But look at what they do, and if they don’t remove any “harder to remove” panels, find a proper way to look at the chainplates from below, don’t turn on each and every instruments, run the engine, and some more, it’s useless. Even if you know nada, look for yourself, ask friends, or that “know it all guy on the dock”, might cost you a few beers, but will give you some pointers on what the surveyor should see.

Poking around with a pointy tool is weapon number one for finding rot and masked rust. A rubber mallet is essential to spot rotten core and even osmosis blisters.

My last recommendation : DON’T give them the last survey !! This way you can compare the two and see if this makes any sense.

On the other hand, if you know nada about boats and how to survey them, maybe a fixer upper is not for you.

Another great comment full of useful information, thank you.

And you wrap it up perfectly with your last line that says it all. It’s just another catch-22 in boat acquisition: you need to know a lot about boats to do a good refit, but really the only way to know a lot about boats is to own several and take them offshore. Even Poor Stupid Bob did a lot better with his subsequent boats after his experience detailed in this post, but it was a pretty expensive education!

Hi Gents, great site ! great posts on this subject, it is all so true, here is our short story : in 2009, i woke up on a morning, and decided to surf the internet and realise one of another of my unreasonable dreams (i have many feasible unreasonable dreams), being to get my own sailboat, experience : only sailing dinghis when … younger, the ocean : yes, that’s actually my job, Money available : no, Bank loan budget : say abt 50k euros for a start, Nr of kids : 5 ! (between 3 and 18 by then), Wife’s approval : yes (that’s reality of life…), so i went surfing (the net), and enjoyed the crazy offers of 50 footers in the caribean, or more exotic palces (i’m not afaraid of distances … i’m a seaman), Then i got lucky : – my collegues/friends / sailors convinced me to start under 40′, – my wife reduced my (start) budget to 35k, – i love strong boats (that’s my job, again), but having chipped too much rust as a cadet (even if loving great today epoxi coatings), i obviously redirected day by day to (old) aluminium, – i love old out-of-fashion lines and designs, – i was the lucky one to discover a boat of which the price had just dropped abt 30% before other guys interested realised, – to get my offer accepted within an hour, – get a used, dirty, half abandonned, but basicly healthy, and basicly but decently upgraded 10 years earlier, … boat, – fall in love with a renown design of a very smart and renown designer, sharing the same basics in life as i do as i finally realised (i’m very KISS and rough and seaworthy), – being the cheapest alu design of her age available on the market, (some suffered electrolysis in the keel-bilge sections), then, i was so crazy : – to make an offer by email being (at work) 10.000nm away, – to let it survey by one of my sailor mates (as crazy as myself), instead of an “expensive” prof-alu surveyor, as my banker and insurer did not requested for such a “Quote : “cheap boat – reduced loan” Unquote, (the relativility of the world), and the difficulty of finding one in a remote place (abroad of course) … – that the Mate said : well, yes, i would do it too, but you know me … Conclusion : – i’m in love with her (a basic), – she is beautifull to my eyes (another basic), – i feel safe in it, – i have plenty job on it, even if everything had been kept almost original and simple, – i do it all (almost) myself (my wallet reminds me i’m actually quite capable, and i could do it), every day on the boat every one new thing, but try to keep her always ready to sail in the Ria, to run away when fed up of upgrading, – i realise every day how much i had to learn abt (sailing) boats (i’m 25 yrs at sea on M/V’s), and their systems, and how easier (and cheaper) it is to learn that on a 34′ … Final conclusion : as so many said here in their own way, and like so many things in life : if i had known before, would i have done this ? maybe no because it is not reasonable, but it would have been a real pity to be too reasonable !!! So YES, refit IS definitely worth it ! She is called Moscatel, as she started het life in Spain, and she is a 34′ Romanée, (enjoy the site we created), as Philippe Harlé’s designs all called by a wine or liquor, actually, she would still be a good base for an “Adventure 34′”, as some requested … Bon vent à tous, as we say, and see anyone of you passing Coruna-Betanzos-Sada Rias

A great comment and a great story, thank you. Looks like you got a great boat at a fantastic price.

From someone who has just found out… health issues will prevent the dreams. Go with whatever you have, old, new, crappy, perfect, small, large, too large etc. Just go now before you can’t. Thanks John or Bob, you missed the important point because you already went. Bill

A really good point. Thank you for letting us all learn from your misfortune. I sincerely hope that things get better.

You mentioned purpose built cruising boats better than what you first bought. What models did you have in mind?

I built a 24 foot boat from scratch 35 years ago. After I was finished I knew were all the bodies were buried in production boats. I had a fiberglass hull (c-flex) and a wood epoxy (T-88) deck and cabin. I sailed that boat and showed it no mercy….down to Mexico from California. I hove-to off Cedros Island in a force 8 in total comfort for two nights. I spent $36,000 on materials and some outside labor…more than any production 24 boat was selling for!! I had NO repairs in 17 years, nothing broke, and the boat looked like NEW the day I sold it for $27,500.

When I went looking for a bigger boat I spent all my time on how the boat was built, could I access everything easily, how were the bulkheads put in. I can honestly say that most boats failed including a Fastnet 45 I looked at. When I found my current boat, a custom Rival 32, I knew I had found a special boat. Perfect structural shape after sailing the Atlantic and Pacific. No keel bolts, hull and deck fiber glassed together, massive hardware, stout mast etc. and the best bonded in bulkheads I had ever seen in any boat except for the older 70’s Swans. Plus no core in the deck to be rotting out.

I paid $35,000 for the boat and spent another $40,000 on it including a new Volvo 2030. At the end I knew every part of that boat and I trust it completely…plus is has NO leaks. I have had zero problems with the boat but I know that when I go to sell it I will be lucky to get $40,000 for it..if that. I could have bought a Pacific Seacraft 34 but the cost was $120,000 new at that time and then I had to outfit it and what is that boat worth now?

Cruising boats are expensive. However, I have found that if you live on the boat instead of an apartment you save at least $400 a month…or $4,800 a year for a 32 to 35 foot boat. Add this up over a 15 year period and bingo…the boat owes you nothing… you have to live aboard a boat full time for it to “pay”.

Don’t ever think a new boat is without problems….unless it is built properly from the start and few are….this is why you, John, have such an interesting project going with your 40 footer. My 24 footer proves your concept…do it right from the beginning and you will have few is any problems…..

I planned my 24 footer over 3 years and thought about everything before I began the project and finished it in 18 months!!! So your 40 footer has the potential to be a great deal.

One example on my Rival: The wood compression post is set in a damn that goes across the hull and filled with an industrial epoxy. After 40 years that compression post is like new. So many masts are stepped on the keel and sit in water….ugh…at the boatyard I worked in we had to fabricate many new mast steps on boats that were breaking down or rusting out and the base of the aluminum mast usually had to have a 1/2 inch cut off due corrosion. This is why I have never liked the mast stepped on the keel…and there are other reasons as well.

Is is worth fixing up an older boat? Only if you like working on boats and know how to do it….but you have to start with the right boat because there are some things that are just too expensive to fix in an older boat as your friend found out.

Yacht Refit Guide: Making Your Pre-Owned Oyster Your Own

If you’ve just bought or are considering buying one of our pre-owned sailing yachts for sale, the first thing on your mind will likely be getting aboard and starting your adventure. However, just as each person has their unique preferences about home design, each yacht owner wants their yacht to suit their personal tastes. At Oyster, we have an extensive yacht refit department with capabilities to make your brokerage sailing yacht your own. Below, we run through the refit process, yard locations, what can be changed and the ‘Oyster difference’.

The oyster yacht refit process: step by step.

From the moment you get in touch to talk about yacht refurbishment we are by your side, and we will help you every step along the way. The yacht refit process generally goes as follows:

• You reach out to Oyster Yachts Palma, our primary European sailboat upgrade centre. Operations Manager of Oyster Yachts Palma, Mark Durham meets with you to discuss what you would like to have done.
• Based on this discussion, Mark assigns one of the three Project Managers (PMs) to oversee the refit, with each PM offering their own specialist skills:

Steve Colley

Joined Oyster Palma S.L. as Service Manager in 2017 having previously managed Oyster Service & Refit Southampton since 2011. Steve has managed numerous major refit and repair contracts as well as overseeing warranty works in the UK, Spain and the Caribbean.

Hamish Burgess-Simpson

A sailor come ashore who has lived, sailed and worked on both sides of the Atlantic, the Caribbean, Indian and Pacific Oceans, and the Mediterranean – focusing on a wide range of disciplines over the years. In the past 15 years, Hamish has primarily concentrated on yacht refit and new-build project management, and for the majority of his maritime career, he has sailed and worked on Oyster yachts.

Pierre Oberon

Recently joined Oyster having run his own yacht maintenance company in Palma for 15 years, Pierre has considerable experience of the entire yacht refurbishment process. He has worked in many areas of the marine industry; as a sailor, service manager, and workshop manager, project managing several refits of motor and sailing yachts, and as director of two service companies and a charter base over the last 34 years. Pierre is fluent in English, Spanish, French, with a comfortable understanding of German.

• The PM meets with you and talks through your ideas and requirements, bringing in the relevant members of the Oyster team to advise on pricing and timescales. They look at your budget and divide your wish-list as necessary paying careful attention to what is most important to you.
• The PM schedules in the necessary work, keeping the majority of this in-house with our expert professionals. If anything is subcontracted, such as upholstery or rigging, the PM will oversee the work to ensure it is completed to Oyster standards, providing you with warranty and peace of mind. We will provide a trustworthy and objective eye, sharing our years of knowledge while at the same time keeping you up-to-date. Oyster’s seal of approval on these works will help boost the resale value of your yacht. 
• You receive regular updates from the PM. If Oyster’s team finds anything that would benefit from being serviced while onboard, the PM will contact you to see whether you want to proceed.

WHERE CAN I BOOK AN OYSTER REFIT?

• Our yacht refit team in Palma are insured to work in any local yard, meaning we can be flexible to your needs and preferences.
• Our Oyster representative in Barcelona can support you there, offering advice on the best local yard for your projects and managing any refurbishment through.
• If you’re in the U.S., Oyster Yachts Newport offers everything from light maintenance to intensive sailboat upgrades.
• In the UK we have Oyster Service Centres in Southampton and Ipswich, which offer a broad range of services from yacht refurbishment through to annual maintenance.

WHAT CAN I CHANGE TO MAKE MY BROKERAGE YACHT FEEL LIKE HOME?

Yacht refurbishment can completely transform a vessel, making it almost unrecognisable. Other than impossible tasks such as moving structural bulkheads or changing the type/size of the yacht, the world is your Oyster. 

Below are some of the most common sailboat upgrades that will make a brokerage yacht feel like your own:

• Upholstery: This is the most popular way of personalising a yacht, allowing you to implement your taste in every little detail.
• Canvas work: Again, this adds a personal touch.
• AV system upgrade. This will depend on how high-tech you are, and what you will spend time doing on your yacht.
• Re-configuration of cabins: In some cases we have been able to change the cabin configuration to fit your family, perhaps adding bunk beds and games consoles for a kids cabin, or making one of the smaller cabins next to the owner’s suite into a cot room for very young children.

THE ‘OYSTER DIFFERENCE’

If you are planning on having your yacht refit, your first step should be to get in touch with our  Oyster sailing services  team. We know our boats inside out and are best equipped to refurbish your yacht, with countless hours of build experience under our belts. 

Not only does an Oyster refit guarantee you the best possible quality, but if you are planning to sell your luxury sailing yacht at some point in the future, her resale value will be boosted by the fact that your works have been managed by Oyster’s trusted team. Get in touch today to set your project in motion.

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What is Sailboat Refit? (A Comprehensive Guide)

Sailboat refit is an important part of boat ownership, and yet it is often an intimidating process for many boat owners.

Whether you are a new or experienced boat owner, understanding what is involved in a sailboat refit is key to making sure you get the most out of your boat.

In this comprehensive guide, you will learn what sailboat refit is, the benefits, different types, costs, steps, best practices and challenges involved in the process.

So, if youre ready to make sure your sailboat is properly refitted and ready for the open seas, lets dive in and explore the ins and outs of sailboat refit!

Table of Contents

Short Answer

Sailboat refit is the process of upgrading or renovating an existing sailboat.

This can include replacing parts, installing new equipment, repairing structural damage, and painting or varnishing the interior and exterior.

Refitting a sailboat can be a major undertaking, requiring specialized skills and tools, and can take anywhere from a few days to several months, depending on the scope of the project.

What is a Sailboat Refit?

A sailboat refit is the process of renovating an existing sailboat to make it look and perform better.

This may involve repairs, upgrades, and modifications to the boat’s interior, exterior, and systems.

Refits are a popular way to extend the life of an existing sailboat and ensure it can keep up with the latest technology.

Refitting a sailboat involves more than just making cosmetic changes.

It includes replacing worn out or damaged parts, rewiring electrical systems, updating navigation systems, and adding additional amenities and equipment.

Depending on the age and condition of the sailboat, a refit can be a simple job or an extensive project that requires professional help.

Refitting a sailboat can be a cost-effective alternative to buying a new boat.

It can also be a great way to customize a boat to suit individual tastes and preferences.

Refits can range from minor projects like replacing a few hardware items or a new coat of paint to more extensive projects that involve structural changes and the addition of new systems.

In addition to improving the look and performance of a sailboat, a refit can also improve its safety and value.

By replacing worn and damaged parts and updating navigation systems, a refit can help make a sailboat more reliable and seaworthy.

This not only increases the value of the boat, but also helps to ensure a safe and enjoyable sailing experience.

No matter what type of sailboat refit is desired, it is important to find a qualified professional to ensure the job is done correctly.

An experienced professional can help to ensure the job is completed to the highest standards and that the boat meets all safety standards.

What Are the Benefits of Refitting a Sailboat?

Refitting a sailboat can be a great way to extend the life of your boat and ensure it can keep up with the latest technology. Refits can range from minor cosmetic changes to a complete overhaul, depending on the goals of the owner. In addition to increased performance, refitting a sailboat can provide a number of benefits, including:

1. Improved Safety: One of the most important benefits of refitting a sailboat is improved safety. Refitting your boat can help ensure that it is up to date with the latest safety regulations and standards, so you can enjoy worry-free sailing. Refitting can also help reduce the risk of mechanical and structural failures due to wear and tear, which can be especially beneficial for boats that are more than a few years old.

2. Increased Comfort: Refitting a sailboat can also provide increased comfort while sailing. This can involve replacing worn out cushions, updating the cabinetry, and installing air conditioning. By making your boat more comfortable, youll be able to enjoy your sailing trips even more.

3. Increased Performance: Refitting your sailboat can also help improve its performance. This can involve upgrading the boats electronics, installing new sails, and replacing the engine. Improving the performance of your boat can help you sail faster and more efficiently.

4. Increased Value: Refitting your sailboat can also help increase its value. This can be especially beneficial if you are looking to sell your boat in the future. Refitting your boat can make it more attractive to potential buyers and can help you get a higher price.

Overall, refitting a sailboat can be a great way to extend the life of your boat and improve its performance and value.

Whether youre looking for minor cosmetic changes or a complete overhaul, refitting your sailboat can help you get the most out of your sailing experience.

What Are the Different Types of Sailboat Refits?

When it comes to sailboat refits, there are several different types of projects that can be undertaken.

Depending on the condition of the boat, the owners goals, budget, and other factors, the scope of the project can range from minor cosmetic changes to a complete overhaul.

One type of sailboat refit is a cosmetic refit.

This type of project focuses on the aesthetics of the boat, such as cleaning and waxing the exterior, replacing hardware and fixtures, and refreshing the interior.

The goal of this type of refit is to improve the aesthetics of the boat while also helping to protect it from the elements.

Another type of sailboat refit is a performance refit.

This type of project focuses on improving the performance of the boat by upgrading and replacing components such as the sails, rigging, and engine.

The goal of this type of refit is to make the boat faster and more efficient.

A third type of sailboat refit is a structural refit.

This type of project focuses on the structural elements of the boat, such as replacing rotten wood, repairing or replacing the hull, and strengthening the frames and bulkheads.

The goal of this type of refit is to make the boat stronger and more reliable.

Finally, a complete refit is a project that combines all of the above types of refits.

This type of project combines the aesthetics, performance, and structural elements of the boat to make it look and perform better.

The goal of this type of refit is to make the boat look and perform like new.

No matter what type of sailboat refit is undertaken, its important to have a clear plan and budget in mind before beginning.

A professional refit can be expensive, so its important to make sure that the project is planned out and that the budget is realistic.

Additionally, its important to make sure that the project is completed properly, as a poorly done refit can cause more harm than good.

What Are the Costs of a Sailboat Refit?

When it comes to sailboat refits, one of the most important considerations is the cost.

Depending on the scope of the project, refits can range from a few hundred dollars to tens of thousands of dollars, and the costs of a refit can vary widely depending on the boats size, condition, and the owners goals.

For a minor refit, the costs could include a few hundred dollars for a new coat of paint, new canvas, and new lines.

For a more extensive refit, the costs could easily climb into the thousands of dollars and include repairs to the hull, repainting the exterior, installing a new mast and rigging, upgrading the interior, and replacing the sails and electronics.

Its also important to consider the cost of labor when budgeting for a refit.

Professional services can cost thousands of dollars, depending on the complexity of the project.

If you plan on tackling the project yourself, you should consider the cost of tools, supplies, and time to complete the work.

Finally, its important to factor in the long-term cost of maintenance and upkeep for the boat.

Refits can extend a sailboats life, but its important to ensure that the boat is well-maintained to get the most out of the refit.

Regular maintenance and repairs can add up over time, so its important to factor in the cost of upkeep when budgeting for a refit.

Overall, the costs of a sailboat refit can vary widely depending on the boats size and condition, the owners goals, and the complexity of the project.

By researching the costs of materials, supplies, and labor, as well as the long-term costs of maintenance and upkeep, you can create a budget for your refit that will ensure your sailboat is looking and performing its best for years to come.

What Are the Steps Involved in a Sailboat Refit?

When it comes to a sailboat refit, it is important to understand the process and the steps involved.

Every refit is unique and will vary depending on the goals and scope of the project, but there are some common steps to consider.

The first step in any refit is to assess the boat and create a plan.

This will involve inspecting the boat for necessary repairs, upgrades, and modifications.

This is the time to decide what needs to be done and to create a budget.

The next step is to start the actual refit.

This will involve stripping the boat down to its bare bones and repairing any existing damage.

This includes replacing any unusable components and making any necessary repairs.

Once the repairs are complete, the boat is ready to be upgraded.

Upgrades can include new equipment such as sails, rigging, electronics, and other features that will improve performance and look.

Modifications to the interior and exterior can also be made to make the boat more comfortable or to give it a new look.

The final step in the refit is to launch the boat.

This involves putting the boat in the water, testing it out, and ensuring it is ready for use.

This is also the time to make any final adjustments or tweaks that may be needed.

A sailboat refit is a great way to extend the life of an existing sailboat and make sure it is up-to-date with the latest technology.

By understanding the process and the steps involved, you can ensure your refit project is a success.

What Are the Best Practices for Refitting a Sailboat?

Refitting a sailboat is a big undertaking, and its important to plan ahead and take the necessary precautions to ensure the job is done safely and correctly. The following are some of the best practices for refitting a sailboat:

1. Make sure you have the right tools and supplies. Youll need a variety of specialized tools and materials for any refit, including saws, drills, sanders, caulking, sealants, and marine paints. Make sure you have the right materials and tools for the job.

2. Get professional help. If youre not familiar with boatbuilding and repair, its best to hire a professional to help with the refit. Hiring a professional means you get the job done right the first time, and it will save you time and money in the long run.

3. Take safety precautions. Boats can be dangerous places to work, so make sure you take the proper safety precautions. Wear protective gear such as goggles, gloves, and ear protection. Make sure youre familiar with any hazardous materials, such as paint or fiberglass, and that youre taking the necessary steps to avoid harm.

4. Make a plan. Before you start the refit, make sure you have a plan. This should include a timeline, budget, and list of materials and tools youll need. Having a plan will help you stay organized and on track.

5. Focus on one task at a time. Refitting a sailboat is a complex process with many different tasks. To avoid getting overwhelmed, its best to focus on one task at a time and make sure its done correctly before moving on to the next task.

By following these best practices, you can ensure that your refit goes as smoothly as possible.

With the right tools, materials, and professional help, you can make sure your sailboat is safe, efficient, and reliable for years to come.

What Are the Challenges of Refitting a Sailboat?

Refitting a sailboat is no easy task.

It involves a significant amount of time, effort, and money.

Before embarking on such a project, it is important to consider all the potential challenges and determine if the benefits of the refit outweigh the costs.

One of the biggest challenges of a sailboat refit is the cost.

Depending on the type of refit and the desired outcome, the cost can range from a few hundred dollars for minor cosmetic changes to tens of thousands of dollars for a complete overhaul.

Other expenses may include tools, materials, and labor.

Another challenge is the complexity of the work.

Sailboat refits can involve a variety of tasks, from welding and carpentry to electrical work and plumbing.

Unless you are experienced in these areas, you may need to hire an expert to help with the refit.

Additionally, some refit projects may require specialized tools or parts that may not be available locally.

Finally, it is important to consider the amount of time involved in the refit.

Depending on the scope of the project, it can take anywhere from a few days to several weeks or even months to complete.

If you undertake a large refit project, you may need to factor in the cost of a marina stay while the project is in progress.

Refitting a sailboat can be a rewarding experience, but it is important to be aware of the challenges involved.

With a realistic budget, the right tools and materials, and a realistic timeline, you can make sure your sailboat refit project is a success.

Final Thoughts

A sailboat refit can be an exciting and rewarding experience.

By understanding the different types of refits available, the costs involved, and the steps and best practices to follow, owners can ensure their sailboat is up to date and ready to take on any adventure.

With a little bit of planning and the right guidance, a sailboat refit can be the perfect way to extend the life of your boat and make sure youre ready to hit the open waters.

James Frami

At the age of 15, he and four other friends from his neighborhood constructed their first boat. He has been sailing for almost 30 years and has a wealth of knowledge that he wants to share with others.

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Sailboat Refit for a Transatlantic

• By Lesley Davison and Tim Murphy
• Updated: January 26, 2021

The germ might not have sprouted on the Spanish Camino de Santiago in June 2013, but it found fertile ground there. By bicycle we were traversing the 1,000-year-old pilgrim’s route to the mythical crypt of St. James, and on crossing into Celtic Galicia, where the landscape starts feeling witchy, we both realized we wanted to travel more deeply along Europe’s outpost edges. We’d each lived in European capitals before, but now we wanted to dwell in places still older than those: not Madrid but Catalonia, not Paris but Brittany, not Dublin but Connemara.

Cycling was a great way to travel deeply in foreign countries, and we proved to ourselves that even in remote places, we could fix flat tires and adjust cables as simple mechanisms faltered. But our scope was ultimately limited by the twin 20-liter paniers each bike carried, and that revelation soon set us off to thinking about sailboats for some extended traveling. After many months exploring the yacht-brokerage market, in fall 2017 on Florida’s Atlantic coast, we found the right boat for our project: a 1988 Passport 40, designed by Robert Perry. She was Hull No. 141 of the 148 P-40s built in Taiwan between 1980 and 1991, and we named her Billy Pilgrim —a nod to our own peregrinations but also to the Kurt Vonnegut character who came unstuck in time. He or she; never they: Billy P abides gender fluidity but abhors sloppy grammar.

Porthole Project

The punch list.

The Passport 40 was perfect for us in a hundred different ways. Still, there’s no getting around Billy Pilgrim ’s 30 years of living. We knew that a shakedown would reveal items to update and refit. Sure enough, by the time we sailed from Florida to our home port in New England, we loved Billy P all the more, despite a pressing short list of shortcomings. One category earned its place at the top of the list: leaks. Fixing those became our priority when we hauled the boat for winter at Maine Yacht Center in Portland.

Tim has worked through boat problems before. As a teenager, he slept aboard his family’s liveaboard CT-41 ketch surrounded by Tupperware to catch the downpours from a leaky cabin top. Since then he’s partially refit a 1974 Vineyard Vixen 29 (see “A Jade Mist Dream Come True,” CW, October 1998). Lesley’s experience with boat ownership was limited to a fleet of kayaks and a 1985 Boston Whaler 15. She’s owned homes built more than a century ago and knows that when you address one problem, you inevitably uncover others, and that sometimes it seems best to just leave the damned dominoes alone rather than set off the whole series. Still, this particular home would also be oceangoing, so it was clear that some projects couldn’t be ignored forever. We went into the refit as enthusiastic amateur marine technicians, eager to learn. Yet the more we got into it, the more we realized there are some things the eight-hour-a-day guys know that we didn’t even know we didn’t yet know.

We determined that unwanted water was coming into the boat from three sources: portholes, chainplates and hatches. The process for stopping the leaks at each source suggested the same steps: Remove the items without damaging vital parts; keep track of what went where; and re-bed the parts snugly so that they don’t start leaking again.

One crucial choice stood over every part we removed: Repair it or replace it?

Re-bedding Portholes

On examination, the gaskets that seal the glass lens in the porthole frames weren’t compromised, nor were the frames themselves. Water was instead leaking in through the cabin house around the edges of the porthole assembly. We determined that five of our 10 portholes needed re-bedding: one on either side of the V-berth, two portside in the galley, and one above the starboard settee.

Each Hood porthole assembly comes in two parts. Installed from inside the cabin is the body of the porthole, which comprises the glass lens, stainless-steel frame, hinges, and a flange that protrudes from inside to the exterior. Outside the cabin, a flat trim ring fits over the protruding flange and provides surface area for sealant. Both the frame and trim ring are secured with wood screws into the plywood cabin side and are bedded in marine adhesive sealant.

Removing the wood screws was straightforward enough. But in order to remove the porthole, we had to break the seal of the 30-year-old sealant without damaging either the stainless fittings or the cabin sides. It may have been crusty and leaky, but it sure didn’t want to let go! We rank amateurs started by using a series of putty knives, screwdrivers and pry bars, working around the edges of the frame, slipping in the blades to loosen the sealant, and prying to get it to release from the cabin side, while at the same time trying not to scrape up the surface or bend the stainless trim ring. A slender putty knife with a certain amount of stiffness worked best to get under the edge and move around the trim ring’s circumference to break the seal. After our initial trials, one of the trained professionals at Maine Yacht Center came by to offer advice and provide us with a selection of small wooden wedges to replace our metal tools when we’d broken the seal. We were now able to move our tools and break the bond on another section.

Once the exterior trim ring came off, we had to break the seal on the porthole flange inside the boat. To do this, we started from the outside by bonking the flange toward the interior with a rubber mallet, trying to move it evenly so that the porthole would slide out at the same angle it had been inserted through the hull—challenging because we were still working against the ancient sealant. Our first porthole removal was not entirely elegant. Some of the melamine surface inside the cabin got a little chipped, but we hadn’t ruined anything vital. One down, four to go!

For the remaining portholes, our friends at Maine Yacht Center provided us with a simple custom-made porthole puller: a wooden contraption that looks kind of like an old-school vise with two feet. Using the puller, you still have to break the seal of the old goo under the trim ring. That done, you put the two feet of the puller against the interior cabin side and the other end against the outside edge of the flange; then you torque the nuts of the two bolts, thereby pushing it toward the inside of the boat. This was a revelation, a process far tidier than our bonking method.

With the portholes removed, now it was time to clean up the surfaces before reinstalling them. Both the porthole assemblies and the cabin-side holes through which they pass needed some work. The water that had seeped in had made a mess of things.

So we cleaned up all the nasty debris, using sandpaper and a stiff brush to get any loose chunks off, then we sealed all the plywood edges of the cutouts with thickened West System epoxy. In the worst spots we applied polyester filler with a putty knife, taking care not to alter the shape of the hole. On the stainless-­steel porthole assemblies we used a wire brush, sandpaper and even a Dremel tool in the spots that showed some pitting corrosion. All cleaned up, our parts were ready to be installed.

One charming moment came upon removing our second porthole, when a little note fell out of the cabin side. In Mandarin, we later learned, it read, “Good luck for selling your boat.” It was a sweet surprise to hear from one of the souls in Taiwan who had built our boat decades before.

We now needed to be very clear about two things. One was labeling. All the portholes we’d removed looked like they were the same size and shape. That wasn’t exactly true, but it was important that everything got labeled, to a kind of ridiculous extent. The second thing came before we started with the re-bedding: We vigilantly covered everything. We taped all edges religiously; we had tons of gloves and rags easily accessible; we covered any nearby surface with cardboard or plastic.

For our marine adhesive sealant, we used white UV-resistant Sikaflex Marine 295. Working with this stuff is ­basically like working with the insides of a well-toasted marshmallow. We tried hard not to get it on anything; once cured, it’s a nightmare to get off. So we taped around the work area, leaving about a quarter-inch gap to make a nice fillet around the edge of the frame or trim ring. We kept a trash bag ready to receive all of the nasty we were about to produce. We squeezed generous gobs of Sikaflex on all the parts (not just the backs of the trim rings, but also inside the tubular part of the porthole flange that protrudes through the cabin side) so that when we fastened them back into place, an ample amount oozed out the entire perimeter. This was our proof that the sealant filled all the voids where water might be tempted to leak in. Then we secured the trim rings and frames with new stainless-steel wood screws. With a clean gloved finger we made a nice fillet around each edge. Before it cured, we carefully pulled our tape, leaving an elegant arc of sealant between cabin side and stainless plate. This is really a four-handed job so that one person can remain goo-free and can clean the stainless with water-soaked rags. Our final step was to clean up all the unintended Sikaflex before it set and then gaze with pride. The fine white line of that fillet was the only visible sign of all our work.

Chainplate Project

Re-bedding the chainplates.

Chainplates are hidden workhorses. Before this project, Lesley hadn’t really been conscious of their existence. Ours are flat strips of stainless steel that pass through the deck. Below deck, they’re through-bolted to structural members massively laminated to the hull. Above deck is a hole in the chainplate through which the shroud terminals are pinned. These unsexy but crucial pieces of steel carry all the dynamic sailing loads, holding up the mast against all the forces from the sails and the waves.

On each side, the Passport 40 has four shrouds and therefore four chainplates. Capping the hole in the deck through which each chainplate passes is a flat, thin, rectangular steel cover; the receiving end of the chainplate sticks up through a slit in this cover. It looks kind of like a light-switch cover about 1/16-inch thick and mounts flat on the deck. Because the Passport has 4-inch bulwarks around the deck perimeter, seawater or rainwater sometimes stands deeper than these chainplate covers. It’s a recipe for leaks and crevice corrosion. Once we determined that we’d need to pull and re-bed all eight chainplates, we decided it might be a good time to add an upgrade: a step or a riser, which would raise the deck cover above the level of soaking saltwater pools. This presented us with a design project.

Inside the cabin, we removed the teak cladding that conceals the chainplates. Next, we carefully removed and labeled all of the grounding wires that were attached for galvanic bonding. Because these showed 30 years of corrosion, Tim replaced all the ring terminals and sealed them with heat-shrink tubing. Then we removed the nuts, washers and bolts from the chainplates. On deck, we removed the cover plates, which were attached with sealant and wood screws into the deck. Finally, we had to wiggle the chainplates out of their slot through the deck. Of course, inside the boat the chainplates are located in one awkward place or another: inside cabinetry in the head, behind other cabinetry in a hanging locker, or in the saloon. Each set of bolts required a different set of yogic contortions to access, but we are fortunate in that Lesley is right-handed and Tim’s a lefty, giving us options for any configuration. In several places we could read a nasty tale of leaked water. We had to release the grip of the old sealant and slide the chainplates up through the deck without distorting them. Our rubber mallet and some more bonking from above helped to free them. We again labeled everything compulsively, cleaned up any water damage, and gave white surfaces some fresh coats of paint.

Lesley made paper templates to create new risers from 3/8-inch fiberglass sheet—higher than standing water but not so high as to introduce toe-stubbers. In this new configuration, the screws that hold the deck covers in place would no longer penetrate the deck or sit in standing water, diminishing the likelihood of new leaks. Lesley cut out the risers on a band saw, then rounded the corners with a sander and sprayed each with Awlgrip. The new risers are a thing of beauty, and now the plates and their fasteners sit well above any standing water on deck.

When it came time to reinstall, we had to make a decision about how removable the new risers would be. Should we bed them to the deck with epoxy (­permanent) or Sikaflex (removable with a bit of ­effort)? What kind of legacy were we leaving for the imaginary future owners of Billy Pilgrim if they were ever going to re-bed or replace their chainplates? The Trained Professionals we consulted strongly advocated for Sikaflex, not epoxy, and we followed their advice. After ­examining the chainplates to ensure that they were still sound (they were), we refastened them with all new stainless-­steel bolts, washers and nuts. This step presented some puzzles to detangle. Some bolts originally ran from fore to aft and others from aft to fore in order to fit inside the teak cladding. In some places it seemed like the interior furniture was built around the chainplates when the boat was built in Taiwan, and it took some fiddling around before we got everything snugly in its original place, bolts tightened and grounding wires reattached. Now we were ready to reseal from above.

We made a dam underneath each hole that the chainplates traveled through on the deck using 3M Strip-Calk butyl tape—the Trained Professionals call it dum-dum tape—which comes on a roll and is basically the consistency of chewed gum. This way enough Sikaflex can be injected to fill in the gaps, but the Sikaflex won’t drip into the whole cavity under the deck. From above we taped around the risers, as we’d done with the portholes. Next we squeezed Sikaflex to fill the hole around the chainplates, covered the ­bottom of the new risers so that it oozed out all sides to seal that bond, then covered the bottom of the steel deck plates to seal them onto the risers. Finally, we fastened the deck plates with stainless-­steel wood screws, which no longer penetrated the deck. One less opportunity for water to come in!

Replacing and Installing New Hatches

The last of our three leak-eradicating jobs was perhaps the most straightforward: hatches. Billy Pilgrim has four—two big, two small—all made by Atkins & Hoyle in the mid-1980s. The aluminum struts had collapsed on themselves, and we sometimes found little chunks of powdered aluminum in the V-berth sheets. Previous owners kept these hatches open with wooden blocks, a proposition that always bespoke smashed fingers. More ­consequentially, the aluminum frames of two of the hatches were cracked—not a case for re-bedding or repair but rather full-on replacement.

Hatch Project

For the past 20 years, Tim has either directed or judged Cruising World ’s Boat of the Year event, giving him the chance to see and sail more than 500 new sailboats, as well as the gear that’s installed on them. That experience led him to prefer Lewmar Ocean series hatches, both for their security and user-friendliness. And no more wooden blocks to hold open the hatches.

Removing the old hatches was very much like removing the portholes and employed many of the same tools. Same goes for cleaning up the surfaces on which the hatches sit.

The main puzzle this job posed was that the frames of the Ocean hatches are slightly smaller than the composite bosses that are molded into the boat’s deck. We fashioned a solution from a ½-inch-thick flat marine plywood, finished off in the same way Lesley finished the chainplate risers. For each hatch, we cut out a piece whose outside perimeter matched the outside edge of the boss, and whose inside cutout matched the inside of the hatch frame. We used wood screws and Sikaflex to fasten them—no more aluminum powder in the bed!

Better still, no more unwanted water in the boat.

Billy Pilgrim has a permanent mooring in Gloucester, Massachusetts, but spent the COVID-19 summer of 2020 hauled out at Maine Yacht Center in Portland, Maine, where Lesley Davison and Tim Murphy visited on self-quarantined day trips so that work could progress.

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A Complete Guide to Yacht Refitting

• by yachtman
• August 30, 2023 August 26, 2023

Yacht refitting is a precise job. It requires a plan and perfect execution. It means changing an existing yacht to a modern, working, and attractive ship. Every bit, from the design inside to the mechanical systems, is examined to make a one-of-a-kind yacht.

Refitting doesn’t just upgrade the yacht’s looks. It also updates its abilities and safety features. This includes changing outdated navigation tech to new tech, or fixing the plumbing and electrical systems to meet today’s standards. The goal is to make sure the yacht looks great and works perfectly.

Sustainability is an aspect of yacht refitting that sometimes gets forgotten. Nowadays, because of more awareness of environmental problems, many yacht owners choose eco-friendly solutions for their refits. This can be installing energy-saving appliances or using sustainable materials for upholstery and furniture. Using sustainable practices helps yacht owners enjoy their vessel without making a huge environmental impact.

Recently, a luxury yacht had a full refit. It changed from an old boat into a beautiful floating palace. The ancient interior was replaced with modern furniture and stylish finishes. The outside was also given a new look with new paint and deck updates.

During the refit process, every area of the yacht was inspected closely, making sure all systems were upgraded to high safety standards. The end product was a completely refurbished yacht that got attention in every port, but also gave its owners an amazing cruising experience.

Understanding Yacht Refitting

To understand yacht refitting with its sub-sections on what is yacht refitting and why it is important, we will delve into this section. Gain insights into the process and significance of yacht refitting as we explore the various aspects involved in transforming and maintaining a yacht to meet your specific needs and requirements.

What is Yacht Refitting?

Yacht refitting is the process of renovating and upgrading a yacht. It is done to enhance the yacht’s performance, functionality, and aesthetics. It is done to meet the owner’s needs and keep up with industry trends.

Modifications and improvements can include:

• Interior remodeling to change the layout, design, furniture, fixtures, and lighting.
• Technological upgrades to keep the yacht equipped with up-to-date navigation, communication, entertainment, security, and energy-efficient solutions.
• Hull repairs to fix any damages or corrosion issues.
• Repainting to give the yacht a fresh look and protect it from environmental factors.
• Deck renovations to improve safety measures and enhance aesthetics.

Yacht refitting can offer many benefits, such as improved performance, increased value, and a more appealing look. Don’t let your yacht fall behind – take action now and give it the refitting it deserves.

Why is Yacht Refitting Important?

Yacht refitting is essential for keeping a yacht in peak condition. It’s all about the details- from inspecting the hull for any damage, to updating navigation systems. Refitting also allows for innovative technology and features not available when the yacht was built. Plus, it’s a chance to customize it according to the owner’s preferences.

Refitting also prevents potential issues, by adhering to strict maintenance schedules. Servicing mechanical components and replacing worn parts ensures performance and reduces breakdowns.

Owners who neglect refitting miss out on advancing technology and design. Keeping up with industry trends means their vessel remains competitive, and they stay ahead of the curve. Refitting is necessary for luxury offerings and resale value. New innovations emerge every year, making refitting essential.

Planning for Yacht Refitting

To ensure a successful yacht refitting process, master the art of planning. Start by assessing the condition of the yacht, setting a realistic budget, and choosing the right refit team. These sub-sections will provide essential solutions for an effective and efficient yacht refit. Now let’s dive deeper into each of these key aspects.

Assessing the Condition of the Yacht

Evaluating a yacht’s condition is essential. Assess all the components and systems of the vessel for optimal working condition. Comprehensive evaluation lets you identify any issues or areas that need attention before refitting.

You need to consider many factors that affect performance and safety. These include: the hull, deck, electrical systems, plumbing, engine, sails/rigging, and interior amenities. Examine each component closely. Look for damage, soft spots, water intrusion, cracks, oil levels, tears, and wear.

Also assess structure, corrosion, and water damage. Hire a professional marine surveyor for an in-depth analysis. This helps you make informed decisions before refitting. Keep the vessel in optimal condition for safety and enjoyment.

Setting a Budget

Assess your priorities. Consider what’s most important and allocate your budget accordingly. This will help you make wise decisions, and not spend too much on unimportant details.

Research costs. Find out the average cost of different refitting projects. Include materials, labor, and any additional fees.

Allow for unexpected expenses. Leave room in your budget for any possible surprises or changes. Unexpected issues may appear during the refit, so you’ll need a contingency fund.

Consult with professionals. Get advice from experienced yacht refitters or consultants. They can help you estimate costs accurately and allocate your budget properly.

Remember other factors. Maintenance costs, storage fees, and insurance premiums must be taken into account. All associated expenses should be considered.

The wealthy businessman example. A wealthy man wanted to refurbish his yacht but set a budget without adequate research or professional help. He ended up overspending on unnecessary features and was in financial trouble. This is a reminder to plan carefully and consider expert advice when budgeting for yacht refitting.

Choosing the Right Refit Team

When looking for a refit team, assess these five criteria:

• Expertise in your refitting needs (mechanical, electrical, interior).
• Team’s track record and experience.
• Specialization in the type of yacht.
• Reputation from reviews & testimonials.
• Resources like facilities, equipment & suppliers.

It’s essential to consider these points before choosing. They’ll help you pick a dependable team that meets your timeline & budget.

Clear communication between you & the team is key. It helps ensure that expectations are understood, challenges addressed & decisions made collaboratively.

Interesting fact: According to Boat International’s 2020 Global Order Book Report , there’s been an increase in demand for refits over new builds in recent years. That shows the importance of a reliable refit team.

Step-by-Step Guide to Yacht Refitting

To ensure a smooth yacht refitting process, follow this step-by-step guide. Start by inspecting and assessing the hull, mechanical and electrical systems. Then, focus on interior refurbishment and exterior repairs and upgrades. Finally, complete the process with painting and finishing touches.

Inspecting and Assessing the Hull

Inspecting and assessing the yacht’s hull is a must. This includes examining its exterior for damages or faults that require repair or reinforcement.

• Inspect for Cracks: Glance over the entire hull surface, paying special attention to the bow and stern. Look for any cracks or damage that can weaken the hull.
• Check for Corrosion: Check where metal fittings are attached to the hull. Search for rust or discoloration that can weaken the hull over time.
• Assess Impact Damage: Check the hull for dents or punctures caused by collisions. Scan both sides of the hull to be sure.
• Evaluate Seaworthiness: See if there are any deformations or bulges that can affect buoyancy and stability. Ensure the vessel’s structure is sound before sailing.
• Consult Experts: Seek advice from experienced professionals if uncertain. They can help you address any issues.

Remember, regular inspections and maintenance prevent future hull damage. Stay proactive and address potential issues before they worsen.

As an example, a skipper found small fiberglass hull cracks near the dock. He sought professional help and had them fixed before they became worse. This shows the importance of regular inspections and prompt action to keep the boat seaworthy.

Mechanical and Electrical Systems

Systems like the Engine, Electrical, Air Conditioning, and Plumbing are integral to the yacht. The Engine System propels it, the Electrical System powers lights and appliances, the Air Conditioning System keeps it comfortable, and the Plumbing System distributes fresh water. There are also safety features such as fire alarms, bilge pumps, and navigation lights .

To avoid malfunctions, inspections and maintenance must be done regularly. Qualified professionals should inspect and upgrade the Mechanical and Electrical Systems . This will guarantee a smooth sailing experience, comfort, and reduce the risk of unexpected problems. Get ready to luxuriate in a reliable yacht!

Interior Refurbishment

Interior refurbishment is all about enhancing and revitalizing the inside of a yacht. This includes revamping the furniture, upgrading fixtures, and making aesthetic enhancements. Furniture may need reupholstering, refinishing, or even new pieces for a modern look. Fixtures like lighting, plumbing fittings, and electronics can be replaced with more advanced options. Aesthetic improvements could include artwork, unique materials, and stylish accents. Every detail is important for a cohesive and striking interior . Boat International magazine states that yacht owners often choose bespoke designs to add a personal touch and charm.

Exterior Repairs and Upgrades

Attention-to-detail is key when revamping your yacht’s exterior. Spot any wear and tear, like seals around hatches, portholes or railings and make sure to maintain them properly – preventing water leakage and corrosion.

For a modern look, consider repairs and upgrades such as:

• Fixing cracks or dents, so that the structural integrity is intact.
• Installing LED lights for energy-efficiency and bright illumination.
• Replacing outdated windows with high-quality, energy-efficient ones for improved insulation and aesthetics.
• Adding new deck surfaces, like teak, synthetic materials, or non-skid coatings.
• Applying a fresh coat of paint or vinyl wrapping.
• Installing window tints or blinds for privacy and sun protection.

Talk to professional yacht refit experts who can provide advice tailored to your vessel’s needs. Transform your vessel into a stunning masterpiece that reflects your style and sophistication on every voyage. Take action now!

Painting and Finishing

Applying high-quality marine paint is crucial for its longevity and looks. Sand and fill any imperfections for proper surface preparation. Primer boosts adhesion and guards against moisture. Finishing options include gel coat, varnish, and clear coats. Give attention to details such as colour, texture, and sheen for the desired visuals.

Professionals should handle painting and finishing for a flawless result. A lesser-known fact is the history behind yacht painting. In the past, copper-based paints were used to shield hulls from barnacles and other sea life. This continued until antifouling coatings were invented in the 20th century. Yachts today benefit from advanced paint technology, providing protection and aesthetics.

Common Challenges in Yacht Refitting

To navigate the common challenges in yacht refitting, ease the process by effectively managing unexpected issues, maintaining your timeline and budget, and ensuring the availability of quality materials and reliable suppliers.

Dealing with Unexpected Issues

Dealing with unexpected issues when refitting yachts can be tough. But, there are approaches to handle them efficiently and reduce any disturbance to the project.

• Take it easy and measure the situation: When you come across unforeseen issues, it is fundamental to stay collected and approach the problem sensibly. Spend time to completely understand the problem before you come up with a strategy.
• Talk to gurus : Get in touch with specialists who have had experience dealing with similar scenarios. Their proficiency can give significant observations and direction on the most proficient method to settle the issue.
• Make a backup plan : It’s consistently wise to have a contingency plan ready for unforeseen conditions. This guarantees that you are set up to address any unexpected issues that may come up during the refitting process.
• Communicate precisely: Keep all stakeholders apprised of the circumstance and how it will affect the project timeline or budget. Clear and concise correspondence is essential in managing desires and limiting any negative influences.
• Adapt and modify: Be adaptable in your methodology and eager to modify your plans if essential. At times unforeseen issues require alternative arrangements or changes to the first plans.
• Stay positive: Fostering a positive attitude can help you tackle unexpected difficulties with strength and assurance. This will not just help you explore troublesome circumstances yet in addition motivate trust in others engaged with the project.

Besides these points, it is essential to recall that each yacht refitting project has its own one of a kind arrangement of difficulties. As such, it is important to stay adjustable and open-minded when facing unexpected issues, as no two circumstances will be precisely the same.

To further lessen potential problems, consider doing exhaustive research before undertaking any refitting project. This incorporates gaining a complete understanding of the yacht’s history, construction materials, and potential zones of concern. By taking proactive measures, you can ready yourself for potential issues and decrease the probability of encountering unforeseen impediments during the refitting process.

Managing Timeline and Budget

Having a realistic timeline is essential for successful yacht refitting. This includes calculating the scope of work, spotting potential problems, and giving enough time to each job . Plus, budget control is key to staying away from extra costs. Making a budget plan with labor, materials, and contingency costs in mind helps to stay in charge of spending.

Furthermore, monitoring and communication are crucial in effectively managing budget and timeline. Keeping everyone updated on progress, fixing any issues right away, and changing plans if necessary helps in a smooth refitting project. Examining alternative options or methods can help get the most out of budget and timeline management . Working with expert professionals in yacht refitting can provide useful advice and new ideas to tackle issues.

For instance, a yacht refitting project was delayed because of technical difficulties with the electrical system. The team had to adjust the timeline but still be able to include extra work within the existing budget restrictions. Thanks to their great coordination and problem-solving skills, they managed to overcome the obstacles without sacrificing quality or customer satisfaction.

Finding Quality Materials and Suppliers

Finding quality materials and suppliers is a challenge when refitting a yacht. Let’s look at some factors to keep in mind.

Location, Quality, Reputation, Cost, and Availability are the key factors. Location matters because of transport costs and delivery times. Quality is important for meeting standards. Research the suppliers’ reputation for providing quality products. Cost is vital but don’t compromise on quality. Availability also matters as delays can affect projects.

Pro Tip: Build strong relationships with reliable suppliers. This saves time and effort in future projects. Regular communication keeps you up-to-date on new materials and trends.

Tips for a Successful Yacht Refitting Project

To ensure a successful yacht refitting project with seamless collaboration and excellent results, prioritize effective communication and collaboration. Proper project management is crucial in keeping everything on track. Additionally, striking the right balance between aesthetics and functionality is key. Let’s now dive into each sub-section to discover how they contribute to a triumphant yacht refitting venture.

Communication and Collaboration

Communication and collaboration are essential to any yacht refitting project’s success. Coordinating well ensures that everyone is on the same page and can solve problems efficiently and complete tasks in time.

To demonstrate the importance of these two concepts, take a look at this table:

Also, it’s important to communicate with external stakeholders such as clients, suppliers, and contractors.

By doing this, you create an environment where information flows, ideas are exchanged, and challenges are tackled proactively. This boosts teamwork, productivity, and ultimately successful yacht refitting projects.

Proper Project Management

Project management is essential for a successful yacht refitting! All aspects need to be properly planned and coordinated for on-time, budget-friendly results.

We divide tasks into three categories:

• Initial assessment (Project manager: 1 week)
• Design development (Naval architect & interior designer: 2 weeks)
• Mechanical systems upgrade (Marine engineer & technicians: 4 weeks)

Rigorous project management practices ensure success. Our experienced project managers oversee the whole process. We manage timelines, responsibilities, and resources so projects are completed within the specified budget.

Interior refurbishment (Interior designers & craftsmen: 6 weeks) and electronics installation (Marine electrician & technicians: 3 weeks) are also important.

Don’t miss out! Contact us for professional project management services. Let us take care of the logistics, and watch your dream yacht come to life.

Balancing Aesthetics and Functionality

A yacht refit project requires a careful balance of looks and performance. It’s key to make sure the yacht is both visually appealing and operates properly. To achieve this balance, there are several aspects to consider, such as design, layout, and equipment. Being meticulous allows yacht owners to get the results they want.

The table below outlines the importance of balancing aesthetics and functionality:

More than just these factors, color schemes, materials used, and ambiance should also be taken into account while striking the right balance between looks and performance.

It’s essential to add unique details that haven’t been addressed before. This could involve custom-made furnishings or installing new tech features. These additions can make the yacht look better, and perform better too.

Did you know? According to Boat International’s Global Order Book report, in 2020, more than 800 superyachts were delivered around the world. This shows the huge demand for yacht refitting projects, as yacht owners seek to improve their vessels’ aesthetics and functionality.

The process of yacht refitting is complex. We’ve learned about the different aspects of refitting. At the end, it’s clear that this is a great way to upgrade your yacht.

A unique point is considering eco-friendly options during the refit. We need to be conscious of environmental issues and look for energy-efficient systems, eco-friendly materials, and waste management practices.

In addition, experienced professionals can help. Designers, naval architects, and project managers can make the process smoother. Consult with fellow yacht owners or online forums for good shipyards or service providers.

For a successful refit, plan carefully, pay attention to detail, and keep sustainability in mind. Pick amenities and features that look and work well. Be open-minded and have fun with it! You can make your vessel a personalized floating oasis. Explore the possibilities!

Frequently Asked Questions

1. What is yacht refitting?

Yacht refitting refers to the process of renovating, repairing, or upgrading a yacht to improve its performance, appearance, or functionality. It involves various modifications and enhancements to meet the owner’s specific requirements and preferences.

2. How long does a yacht refit usually take?

The duration of a yacht refit depends on the extent of work required and the size of the yacht. Small projects can take a few weeks, while larger refits can take several months or even years. It is essential to establish a realistic timeline with the refit yard or professionals involved.

3. What are the common areas addressed during a yacht refit?

A yacht refit typically covers several areas, including the yacht’s hull, mechanical systems, electrical systems, interior design, navigation equipment, and safety systems. The scope of the refit can be customized based on the owner’s specific needs and budget.

4. How much does yacht refitting cost?

The cost of a yacht refit varies significantly based on the extent of work required, materials used, and the expertise of professionals involved. It is advisable to obtain detailed quotes from multiple refit yards or contractors to compare prices and services. A thorough initial assessment is necessary to estimate the overall cost accurately.

5. Can a yacht refit increase the yacht’s value?

Yes, a well-executed yacht refit can increase the yacht’s value. Upgrading outdated systems, modernizing the interior, and enhancing the overall functionality and aesthetics can make the yacht more appealing to potential buyers or charter clients. However, it is crucial to consult with yacht brokers or experts to understand the market trends and potential impact on the resale value.

6. How often should a yacht undergo refitting?

The frequency of yacht refitting depends on various factors, including the age of the yacht, its usage, and the owner’s preferences. As a general guideline, a comprehensive refit is typically recommended every 5-10 years. However, regular maintenance and smaller updates are necessary to ensure the yacht remains in optimal condition between major refits.

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Yacht Servicing, Refit & Repair

Yacht servicing.

We offer general repair and maintenance including window repair, vinyl repair, furniture upholstery, locating & repairing small leaks, even minor electrical & plumbing repairs.

Yacht Refit

Are you interested in a full yacht refit? We can offer a full yacht remodel or simply help maximize your storage space, replace flooring, yacht carpet, install custom furniture, offer a full head remodel and more.

Yacht Furniture

We offer indoor upholstery repair for your yacht furniture and outdoor furniture repair including vinyl repair and replacement. Need custom built pieces? We can custom build furniture inside & out to fit your desired lounge areas.

Repair, Remodel, Refit, Reshape

When your vessel carries a lot of sentimental value, it is not easy to just replace it. That is why we are here. We understand every yacht is special, built custom and sometimes priceless to it’s owner. We treat each refit as an opportunity not a job. No matter where you are located, it is easy to get to us, and depending on where you might be in Florida, we can come to you.

We are located in Port Canaveral, Florida. Our port is a widely known international cruise ship port with plenty of depth and width for any size yacht. Call us today and let us get acquainted!

You will speak directly with Pete, our master craftsman.

Born and raised in South Florida Pete grew up fishing and diving in the Atlantic ocean. It is hard not to gain a natural love and respect for the ocean for both it’s beauty and power. Understanding how the ocean deteriorates anything over time has helped Pete become a master at repairing it’s inevitable damage. Now, with over 25 years experience designing and building custom furniture and over 15 years in the marine industry; not many things surprise Pete when it comes to repair.

What about luxury you ask? Before the COVID shutdown, Pete enjoyed 5 years as production lead building the magnificent Ocean Alexander 70e Motoryacht CLICK HERE TO SEE THE END PRODUCT . This experience gave Pete the knowledge of all aspects of yacht construction.

“I take a lot of pride in my work. I’m good with customers, I understand their vision and can bring it to reality! If you can dream it I can build it from conception to completion!” Pete DeJong

We offer full interior refits! Only need a specific area redone? We can do a head remodel, floor replacement, yacht carpet replacement, vinyl repairs and more.

We specialize in customizing furniture to maximize your living space, building custom storage and reupholstering overly damaged outdoor furniture.

We install vinyl fabric headliners, outdoor vinyl furniture and vinyl cladding. Need something fully replaced? We can mold padding and replace entire cushions.

We match and replace existing molding, cleats, bow rails, winches & all exterior stainless or brass. We also offer minor fiberglass repairs on your yacht exterior.

Are you in the area and need a bit of yacht maintenance? We offer bilge cleaning and gel coating.

We can re-caulk windshields, glass windows and hatches. Need a window replacement? We can do that as well.

Do you have a leak you can't find? We will find the spot of intrusion and fix it for you.

We are located in Port Canaveral with some of the only deep water marina's on the East Central Coast of Florida. We can accommodate any yacht size.

Frequently Asked Questions

We can schedule an appointment as soon as today. Give us a call so we can learn your dream interior, goal time range, schedule and budget.

Every yacht refit and owner preference is unique. That is why we offer custom refits. Once we have an idea of material availability as well as the extent of renovations needed; we can determine a custom refit timeline for your specific project.

Absolutely, in fact, many yacht refits begin with the need for more storage. Our craftsman can design custom storage space throughout your yacht to decrease clutter and expand the cargo you can carry.

We keep close communication with the owner during the entire refit timeline. When a delay happens due to weather, materials, unforeseen damage under the surface or anything else that may cause more time to finish; we contact you immediately.

With the most up to date materials, high density foam, luxury vinyl, top of the line flooring and veneers.

Call us and let us design your refit!

Most boat and some yacht owners use a polypropylene synthetic carpet for moisture resistance, UV fade resistance and increased traction. These carpets are expensive for the low quality look and not as comfortable as wool carpet since it is a plastic material. For a yacht, carpet is common issue that needs repair or replacement. When I personally do a carpet removal and new flooring installation, I suggest Amtico or other luxury options that last and feel better than manufactured marine carpeting.

From Miami to Jacksonville; Cocoa Beach to Tampa. If you are concerned about getting to us, our shop is located in the Port Canaveral cruise ship port. Our port can accommodate any size yacht and we have a Premier Marina for private yachts up to 110'. Check out what The Ocean Club Marina in Port Canaveral has to offer on their official website https://oceanclubmarina-pc.com/

We have multiple manufacturers to choose from with a plethora of color options available. It has not been a problem for us in the past to match any vinyl color. We can also change your color with a full vinyl reupholster while matching and complimenting your existing finishes.

When you need a vinyl repair that requires matching the correct color, the timeline starts with the availability of stock in the color you need. When your color is in stock, we can complete a vinyl repair as fast as 1 day.

Sometimes, we can speed up the process with a full vinyl reupholster of the furniture, padding or full headline replacement. We can find vinyl colors to match and compliment your existing finishes without waiting for a perfect match to come back in stock.

Normally a few days. Especially if the entire window must be removed, rebedded and allow for proper cure time. Luckily in the Florida Sun, the curing process does not take long.

We repair yacht furniture damage as small as a ding or tear all the way to a full upholstery removal and replacement. We can custom mold padding and foam for indoor yacht furniture with custom upholstery options. For exterior yacht furniture, we suggest vinyl fabric to withstand the harsh elements. There are many soft and colorful vinyl options to choose from.

Absolutely! Not only do we have options for yacht carpet replacement, we offer luxury Amtico Flooring upgrades that are manufactured to be more durable for your yacht than hard wood & yacht carpet. There are so many finishes, colors and countless possible layering patters, including an authentic Teak look most yacht owners prefer!

Contact Bilge 2 Bridge

321-266-2247

750 Mullet Rd Suite C, Cape Canaveral, FL 32920

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Refit guide: Sailboat refit done right

Published April 7, 2023 · Updated April 7, 2023

If you’re planning a sailboat refit, you know it can be a daunting task. Whether you’re preparing for an offshore voyage, upgrading your vessel, or simply maintaining your boat’s systems, a comprehensive refit guide can be an invaluable resource. In this post, we’ll provide a detailed checklist for every sailboat refit, including tips and tricks to help ensure a successful outcome.

Introduction

A refit is the process of upgrading or restoring a boat to improve its functionality, safety, and overall appearance. This may involve anything from replacing outdated equipment and upgrading systems to overhauling the interior and exterior of the vessel.

Regular refits are essential for maintaining the safety and performance of a sailboat. Neglecting a vessel’s maintenance can result in costly repairs, decreased value, and even endangering the crew’s lives. A refit is a comprehensive maintenance plan that involves assessing the boat’s condition, identifying areas for improvement, and performing necessary repairs and upgrades.

Without regular refits, small issues can turn into major problems. This could include a deteriorating hull, failing rigging, or outdated electronics, which can put the boat at risk in heavy weather conditions. In addition, regular refits can help to maintain a boat’s value, and even increase it, as a well-maintained vessel is more appealing to potential buyers. A refit can also ensure that a boat is equipped with the latest technology, making it more efficient and easier to handle. Overall, regular refits are essential for keeping a sailboat in top condition and ensuring safe and enjoyable sailing experiences.

Pre-Refit Planning

Setting a budget:.

Before embarking on a refit project, it’s essential to read our refit guide and set a budget. It’s important to have a realistic idea of how much the project will cost, and to allocate funds accordingly. When setting a budget, consider the cost of materials, labor, and any unforeseen expenses that may arise. It’s also important to factor in any upgrades or improvements that may be necessary to meet safety standards or legal requirements.

Assessing the boat’s condition:

Assessing the boat’s condition is a critical step in the refit process. Before beginning any work, it’s important to thoroughly inspect the vessel to identify any areas of concern. This may include checking the hull, deck, rigging, and mechanical systems. Identifying any deficiencies or weaknesses early on can help prevent more significant issues down the road.

Identifying areas for improvement:

Once the boat’s condition has been assessed, it’s time to identify areas for improvement. This may include anything from upgrading outdated equipment to modernizing the interior or exterior of the vessel. Consider your goals for the refit and prioritize improvements based on their importance and feasibility.

Choosing the right time for a refit:

Timing is an important consideration when planning a refit. Many boaters choose to undertake a refit during the offseason, when the boat is not in use. This can help minimize the impact on the boater’s ability to sail or use the boat. It’s also important to consider the time required for the refit and ensure that it fits within your schedule and budget.

Developing a refit plan:

Developing a comprehensive refit plan is crucial to the success of the project. The plan should outline the scope of the work, budget, timeline, and any necessary permits or approvals. It’s also important to consider the skills and expertise required to complete the work and ensure that all necessary resources are in place.

Refit Guide: To-Do List

As part of our refit guide, we want to give you an example of interesting areas to cover in a refit. A refit plan usually brings up a to-do list. A generalized to-do list could look like this:

Hull and Deck

• Inspecting the hull and deck for damage
• Repairing any damage found
• Cleaning and painting the hull and deck
• Upgrading hardware and fittings
• Replacing lifelines and stanchions

Rigging and Sails

• Inspecting the rigging for damage
• Replacing any worn or damaged rigging components
• Upgrading to high-performance rigging
• Replacing worn or damaged sails
• Choosing the right sails for your sailing style

Electrical and Electronics

• Inspecting the electrical system for damage or wear
• Upgrading to a modern electrical system
• Installing new electronics, such as a chartplotter or autopilot
• Replacing old batteries
• Adding a battery monitoring system

Plumbing and Sanitation

• Inspecting the plumbing system for leaks or damage
• Replacing worn or damaged hoses and fittings
• Upgrading to a modern sanitation system
• Adding a watermaker or water filtration system
• Installing a holding tank for sewage

Interior and Comfort

• Inspecting the interior for damage or wear
• Upgrading to more comfortable cushions and bedding
• Installing heating or air conditioning
• Upgrading the galley appliances

Safety Equipment

• Inspecting all safety equipment, such as life jackets and fire extinguishers
• Replacing any expired or damaged equipment
• Installing additional safety features, such as a man overboard system
• Upgrading to a modern EPIRB and PLB

Deck and Cockpit Upgrades

The deck and cockpit of your sailboat are where you’ll spend most of your time, so it’s important to make sure they’re comfortable and functional. Consider adding or upgrading features such as a bimini top, cockpit cushions, or a swim platform.

Add or upgrade deck hardware such as winches, clutches, or tracks.

Paint and Cosmetic Upgrades

A refit can also provide an opportunity to improve the appearance of your boat.

Consider repainting the hull or topsides, or adding new graphics or logos. You can really go creative here.

A sailboat refit can be a daunting task, but with a comprehensive refit guide and checklist, you can ensure a successful outcome. By carefully planning your refit, addressing the hull and deck, upgrading electrical and plumbing systems, improving the interior, and enhancing safety and navigation, you’ll be well on your way to enjoying a safer, more comfortable, and more reliable sailing experience.

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The youtube refit of “Duracell”

April 6, 2023

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Complete Refits & Restoration

Modernize, revitalize, and customize your boat with a complete refit.

With turnkey services and a state-of-the-art marine facility, Yacht Management can accommodate a variety of custom yacht services. Some of these services include interior and exterior refits, entertainment systems, mechanical systems, marine electrical and marine electronics.

There are two types of boat owners who contract yacht refits:

• Yacht owners who love their vessel and want to upgrade their finishings.
• Yacht buyers that have purchased a used yacht and would like to refurbish their vessel.

Whether you fall into yacht fit category one or two, Yacht Management of South Florida can help make the refit and restoration process stress-free. Once you have decided to undergo a complete yacht refit and restoration, our team will work with you to create an organized list to plan your project. Our yacht management group works closely with several reputable naval architects that can bring your vision to life. With the collaboration of CAD drawings, your restoration concerns can be turned into obtainable projects with minimal down time. One tip to keep in mind when shopping for yacht restoration prices is to focus on more than just the cost of the restoration. Reputation should play a factor in your decision making process for who to choose for your yacht refit. Sometimes, a price difference of 2%-7% could result in a substantial improvement in your yacht renovations.

Coal Blooded, Mangunsta 80'

This recent REFIT project completed at Yacht Management Service Center on an 80' Mangusta required consideration of every detail. The owners wanted to modernize the vessel, which included metallic paint work, complete interior overhaul, electronics upgrades including re-wiring to accommodate for LED lighting and major engine and generator service.

We provide the following services

• Comprehensive planning, organizing and management of substantial refit projects
• Naval architect and cad drawings
• Marine engineering & surveyors
• Dedicated project manager
• In-house interior designers and specialty contractors
• Yacht restoration, complete refits and yacht interior design

For all inquiries, fill out the form below and a member of our team will respond as soon as possible

Yacht Refit Cost

There is a false impression about yachts – that they only require a refit if they are on their last legs and are barely seaworthy. This simply isn’t the case. 

If you think in terms of houses, you refit your home from time to time to update how it looks, to reflect both your personal taste and changing trends: to future proof it and ensure it remains fit for purpose.  

Now consider when you would usually renovate your house. Normally, the highest expenditure is when you move in, as you want it exactly the way that suits you before settling in. You might spend smaller amounts updating it from time to time, as fashions change, before spending the second highest amount of money when you plan to move out.

Why? Because you realise that, by making it look more up-to-date and attractive to potential buyers, you’ll get better value for it.  The cost of any work is justified by the proportionally far larger increase it adds to the value.  

Delivering Value

Much the same applies to yachts. A refit by Setag is there to add value. It isn’t the equivalent of fixing a dilapidated house – rather it should be seen as a way to futureproof your yacht and make it reflect your taste, personality and needs.  

One of the most common customer situations the yacht business caters for is the returning customer who wants to upgrade their vessel. Our solution at Setag is to offer a larger pre-owned model, without the depreciation and work with the customer to carry out a thorough refit at the fraction of the cost. That way they have all the benefits of a new build – with bespoke interiors created for them as well as up-to-date electronics systems, but delivered at value.  

A Sustainable Transformation

We provide a beautiful level of service, offering luxury to the pre-owned market – ensuring that you are in control of your yacht’s refit at every stage. You get to sit down with one of the best interior designers in the business and work with them to create the yacht that you have always dreamt of, rather than simply making do with the pre-owned boats available, in the state that you find them.  

In turn, we can make a very significant impact on the vessel for 10-15% of the boat value . So there’s a good economic answer for having a Setag design & refit, but a full, dedicated refit service simply hasn’t existed until now.  

We’re ready to redefine, refit and remaster your yacht, according to your needs. Get in touch today to Realise the Art of the Possible.

Redefined by Setag

Each project is truly bespoke, catering to individual needs. If you are moving into a new house, you naturally want to renovate to put your own stamp on it – to make it feel like your home. So, why would you be happy to live with someone else’s taste when it comes to your yacht?

Yacht Refit

One of the most common questions we are asked by potential clients is what we mean exactly when we talk about offering a refit service for yachts. There is a false impression about yachts that they only require a refit if they are on their last legs and are barely seaworthy. This simply isn’t the case.

With SETAG, you can make a huge difference when you buy something secondhand, maybe a bit tired and then you put all of this beauty in it and you create what effectively is a brand new boat. Completely to your own liking, your own standard...creating the perfect boat for us.

Brilliant concept...new boat look and feel at pre-owned prices - by the industry experts. Recycling at its best!

The great thing is, none of this is off the shelf - I love this boat and now she’s got her frock on...this is the best money I've spent.

If you want to redefine, refit and remaster your boat who better to do it than the people who designed it in the first place? "What a fantastic idea!"

We cannot recommend the SETAG team highly enough. If you love your current boat, then for a fraction of the cost to change it, have it SETAG’d. The SY branding certainly helped us obtain a premium price. We got what we paid for her in 2017 plus what we spent with you!

I have worked with Chris for over 30 years and I’m pleased to see him develop his own brand - along with likeminded people with industry-leading expertise. The future is bright for Setag Yachts and pre-owned yacht owners, who can now refurbish their vessels to today’s - or even tomorrow's standards.

That has been one of the key selling points for us – having that personalised service and having a boat that is unique to us – is standout in its own right. We are pretty blown away…very very pleased. I think it’s fabulous…it has transformed the boat.

The perfect way to open up a new market: the "true reflection of luxury". Setag gets it: simplicity and personalisation are key – with the depth of knowledge to deliver.

Setag are probably the only company who can carry out all the tasks as a ‘one stop shop’. Other yards were reluctant to price work and needed to subcontract many tasks meaning higher costs and longer lead times. If you are in any doubt speak to Chris and his team, they know boats like no one else.

We have been waiting for this quality of service: a comprehensive, professional refit that we can rely on – because of the pedigree of its staff, with over 200 years' experience in our market.

You have put Princess magic into our beloved Broom.

Never have I come across a more able collection of professionals in this market. We have complete trust in Setag, since its team has been in the business for as long as we can remember. We're very excited to welcome this specialist refit company into our portfolio.

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COMPLETE refit

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My dear sailheads, Can anyone suggest a good place to do a COMPLETE refit of a 35-45 foot sailboat? I’m talking about ripping EVERYTHING out and replacing it with new. I can’t do it myself so I’m looking for a yard that could do it all for me. I have worked/suffered on 3 of my own boats so know enough to supervise but I don’t want to lift a single tool - which is as much for the quality of workmanship as it is to preserve my own sanity. Is this even a thing that people do? I’m thinking that I could get an essentially new boat for about a third the cost of a new one. Have I been spending too much time in poorly-ventilated spaces working with epoxy? I can go anywhere in the world - especially if it means taking advantage of high levels of skill or/and low costs of labor. Any and all (positive, upbeat, even heart-warming) suggestions are welcome. Cheers, Ed  

My gut tells me there is something up here. It does not stand to reason that a boat in need of a total refit could be taken anywhere in the world to have it done. As far as paying a yard to do a full gut and refit, in all cases it would cost multiple times what any boat would ultimately be worth. Not a fraction of. I'm not even sure one could do so for less than what a new one would cost. These projects are usually reserved for collectible or historic vessels. I've personally known of insurance damage, which was nothing near a full gutting, that cost the insurance company nearly the full current value of the boat. Most bulkheads, plumbing and cabinetry, not to mention engines, rigging, etc, were not touched. I know of another that took on water, up to her floor boards. $400k just to deal with what was below (clean, paint, replace), which did include the generator, nothing above touched.  

Agree. Just buy a newer boat.  

I've heard Columbia is pretty good value, but Guyana is by far the best for craftsmanship for the money. Otherwise, if the boat is going to be worth a million or more, there are plenty of quality boat yards in the US.  

I can not help really. In my limited experience with boat yards they can barely do basic work and the only reason to let them on your boat is that your absolutely did not had the resources to do the work yourself or hire someone to do it. But, Sharon in Bristol RI used to do this type of work. I assume since you say "35-45 foot" that you don't have a boat yet. I would think you are never going to come out ahead buying a POS and refitting it over buying a different boat. It you could there would be yards doing it and selling the "refit" boats as a business.  

Ed, LOTS more info needed starting with basics such as make, model, ear, basic construction. On the absurd level a “complete refit” is building a new boat from old plans. Surely yours is not that fartone. And there are all kinds of specialty yards that can do such a thing. But are they a ailable to you? Can the boat sail 1,000 miles? Can it be trucked across country? Do you need something near water or is it small enough to move via road inland? Etc. For example Covey Island in Nova Scotia does custom refits on cold molded hulls.  

ootinaboot said: I'm thinking that I could get an essentially new boat for about a third the cost of a new one. Click to expand...

capttb said: Pacific Seacraft has factory refit services available and I've seen a few boats they'd done, might be slightly less than a new one but not much. Pacific Seacraft is the award winning manufacturer of ocean going sailing yachts. The Pacific Seacraft manufacturing facility is located in Washington North Carolina. The company was featured in the book The Worlds Best Sailboats by Ferenc Mate. Pacific Seacraft was named by Fortune Magazine as builder of one of Americas best products. The Bill Crealock designed sailboats are internationally recognized as one of the finest blue water sailing yachts in the world. Click to expand...

I read somewhere that the hull is about 10% of the cost of a boat. If the OP thinks he can fix up a derelict for less than the cost of a boat ready to go IMHO he hasn't consider the entire cost.  

The only way for the OP to come anywhere near a bargain on this is to do most of the work himself, which he has clearly stated is not his intention.  

This makes zero sense but then it's sailing after all. Wherever you are in the world, within reason, there are yards that can do this work. But look in your back yard first. If you're in California, let's say, and you transport your boat to Turkey, let's say, for some perceived high cost/quality ratio, then you can just save yourself the transportation costs and keep it in home waters. East Coast, West Coast, Canada, Britain, Europe - there are yards everywhere that will gut and refurb your boat so long as your checks don't bounce.  

ootinaboot said: I don't want to lift a single tool Click to expand...

ootinaboot said: I'm thinking that I could get an essentially new boat for about a third the cost of a new one Click to expand...

quality of workmanship , preserve my own sanity and about a third the cost of a new one. he used these all in the same post but did not mention which planet he is on.  

OP, call Jeremy Rogers yachts in Britain and ask them the cost to completely gut and rebuild an old Contessa 32 versus how much it would cost to have a new one built. You'll find the numbers aren't very far apart at all - certainly not in your "1/3 price" fantasy ratio.  

And just imagine the responses had he posted this in sailing anarchy forum.  

Is that one of those dank corners of the internet where emotionally troubled keyboard warriors go to vent the pain they feel from lifetimes of inadequacy and personal failure?  

give the guy some slack!  

Thanks, all. To clarify, my intention was to find a place where I could get the work done and buy a boat reasonably close to it. For example, I bought my first two boats in the Phuket/Langkawi area where there seemed to be no shortage of reasonably skilled workers available at reasonably low rates. Point taken about how expensive refits can be - but are ya’ll’s estimates based on the rates for labor you’d pay in Europe/N. America/Austra-Zealand? So, yes, Thailand/Malaysia is an option but I was casting about for suggestions of other places on the globe...and for refit advice in general.  

Oh, I assure you my suggestion was meant in good faith - if this is a serious project, I think a call to a place like Jeremy Rogers would be a great first research step. This is exactly what they do - they completely refurbish yachts, as well as build new, side by side. There aren't many places that do that. They can give you very clear figures and real world advice on their corner of the market as well as probably point you to other yards that have similar capabilities. They could give their opinions on where economies could be made, what issues accompany a job like this, common mistakes and oversights, etc. etc. There is also Elephant Boat Yard, or Falmouth Boat Co. in Cornwall. Southern England has several amazing boat yards. I would check Robinhood Marine in Maine - I've seen their work and it's first rate, and they do keel-up restorations. You could start there. For what it's worth. I would definitely put the boat somewhere convenient, where I could visit (translation: SHOW UP UNANNOUNCED) and check on progress. The farther afield you look the more communication friction there will be, the more supply issues you'll have, the more everything will cost to ship, the harder it will be to press something legally if things go wrong... ("Oh sir...we are very sorry but your new engine was stolen from the yard...") Good luck.  

Rio Dulce comes to mind as a end of the road place where dreams go to die, cheap hulls. There are several boatyards with supposedly inexpensive labor and housing along with an expat community for kinship. I have never been there but researched it as an option. It was my plan to go there this year and supervise the work. . But then covid so we pushed the refit up a year and got it done in the States. Far to much with my own labor.  

I still don't think this plan is the wise way to proceed. It would be much cheaper, and take much less time to find a boat that is in as close to the condition, and configuration as you can get. Much better than trying to convert a boat into the one you want. You get a huge discount on the money spent buying a well cared for boat.  

Of course it's a loony idea but I'm glad people pour their hard earned money into refitting boats. It keeps good boats in circulation and out of the boneyard.  

So it seems that the concensus opinion is that if I’m stuck in a developed country the most cost effective approach would be to purchase the newest boat I can afford then fix and upgrade as necessary? Would all agree?  

ootinaboot said: So it seems that the concensus opinion is that if I'm stuck in a developed country the most cost effective approach would be to purchase the newest boat I can afford then fix and upgrade as necessary? Would all agree? Click to expand...

olson34 said: It's best to free oneself from the fiction that one's hobby somehow has to make financial sense. If you can afford it and your family approves of it, just be content. Applies to boats, houses, airplanes, and automobiles. (Master Yoda might have something pithy to say also... ending with "Do or do not; there is no try" ! ) Click to expand...

For me the math is simple spend $200k on a slightly used boat or find a well use boat for 100k and spend 100 k for the parts to do a complete gut and rebuilding then find someone to do the labor for free. just looking at the marine and every other industry in the last 4 months has cost your refit 20% more then it did last year. shipping costs are going up by the day and they can't ship the parts because they are out of stock. Raw materials are in short supply and the price quote is good for 48 hours but they are backordered for 6 months. doing refit right now is going to expensive.  

" olson34 said: It's best to free oneself from the fiction that one's hobby somehow has to make financial sense. If you can afford it and your family approves of it, just be content. Applies to boats, houses, airplanes, and automobiles. (Master Yoda might have something pithy to say also... ending with "Do or do not; there is no try" ! ) AND Click to expand...

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Yacht Refit

Yacht refurbishment services.

Does your sailboat, motoryacht, or powerboat need maintenance attention or possibly a complete refit? Located on Hatteras Island on the North Carolina Outer Banks, where there is a tradition of boatbuilding for those who want to be shored up a few miles from where the Gulf Stream scrapes the closest point of land on the Eastern Seaboard, one refit and maintenance service truly stands out. Phillips Boatworks is owned by Capt. Jay Phillips, who has experience is all aspects of the pleasure and luxury yacht business. For big projects we have a team of designers, engineers, and boatbuilding experts that can ensure your project is handled meticulously.

Experience with big Boatbuilding Programs! Phillips Boatworks Team is well acquainted with big projects. Owner, Jay Phillips, has been a key player at the highest quality levels of yacht manufacturing. We have built boats that stand out far ahead of the crowd at events like the Annapolis Boat Show, in that they are engineered and constructed using the most advanced composite technology currently available. Use of Prepreg Systems, Resin Infusion, Vacuum Bag and Autoclaved parts are the norm for us because the boats we have designed and engineered must be the lightest and strongest in the marketplace. This trickles down to an outstanding level of quality on all levels of fiberglass and refinishing work, even if it requires hand laid fiber and resin. We have operated, transported and worked on yachts from 100′ in length and under. We have designed and engineered some of the lightest and fastest catamarans ever known.

Systems Engineering and Installations. While our experience with hull and superstructure is strong, so is our knowledge of how to integrate, install, repair, and maintain vital on board systems. From the diesel powerplant to the drivetrain, tankage, plumbing, bilge systems, electrical/electronics tech, and hvac systems, we have done it before a variety of yachts that we have owned, managed and maintained for others. Brands we like working with in particular include:

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Classic 62m Feadship superyacht Virginian completes extensive refit

The 62.2-metre Feadship motor yacht Virginian has completed an extensive refit at the Atlantic Refit Center in La Rochelle, France.

Virginian arrived at Atlantic Refit Center in November 2023 and concluded works last week. She is now waiting for good weather conditions, after which she will depart for a summer cruising season in the Mediterranean.

Delivered in 1990, Virginian 's classic exterior lines were penned by Studio De Voogt . She was the first Feadship to have four full decks, and her hydraulic transom hatch, concealed tender storage and separate captain's lounge are features that were considered ahead of her time.

The superyacht has had a number of exterior and interior refits over the years, including in 1999 and 2008. Her most recent works involved the complete removal of anti fouler, as a prerequisite to Virginian' s new hull paintjob; the interior renewal of the bridge deck and the crew area, including electrical works and carpentry; the completion of the two main engines' 20-year survey, alongside other technical upgrades.

Accommodation is for 12 guests across six cabins and 18 crew, with onboard highlights that include a library with an open fireplace, a Jacuzzi and an observation lounge.

The refit yard also recently welcomed the 42-metre Vitters sailing yacht Sharlou .

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