the wayfarer sailboat

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Might be considered a little on the small side for camper-cruising, yet this dinghy has, over the last 49 years, established itself with an impressive reputation for doing just that.

Proctor was involved in such design, but in 1957 saw a need for a “true family dinghy”, one that was “robust enough to lie afloat all the time, that would be forgiving and not demand great physical strength and agility from the crew… [and could] go places and be used for exploring rivers and inland waterways”.

The Wayfarer, as she became known, has since achieved all this, plus earned herself a respectable reputation for performance around the cans.

The design itself is robust and stable, but echoes the lines of her racing contemporaries. She’s relatively beamy at 6ft 2in (1.9m) and heavy at 368lb (167kg), but still produces a good performance in terms of speed and handling.

Most importantly, she’s easy for the inexperienced to control and has a good seakeeping ability for those who want to take her further afield. Although the hull and sail plan is the same as originally designed, the Wayfarer has, over the years, evolved through several marques.

Proctor’s original spec was for a plywood hull and the dinghy was also sold in kit-form for amateur construction. GRP was introduced with the Mk1 in 1965, followed in 1974 by the MkII. Since then, the Mk1A, MkII SD, MkIII and Wayfarer Plus S have all followed, each with slight changes to the interior layout, such as built-in buoyancy tanks, increased locker space and self-bailers.

No article on this design is complete without a mention of renowned dinghy cruisers Frank and Margaret Dye and their wooden Wayfarer, Wanderer (CB146). Between them they’ve sailed many tens of thousands of miles in Wanderer , cruising as far afield as Iceland, Norway and along the East Coast of America.

By doing this, not only have they achieved a place in dinghy cruising history, but they have inspired countless people to get afloat in a Wayfarer and experience the joys of camper-cruising. Their adventures have reinforced the Wayfarer’s reputation as a good seaboat and Proctor’s original design brief for a versatile dinghy that is well set up for cruising.

Space on a 16ft open dinghy will always be at a premium, but two people can quite comfortably sleep aboard on the 8ft-long flat floor, either side of the centreboard. The mast is set in a tabernacle, so it can be easily raised and lowered afloat, and fore and aft buoyancy tanks can be used for the dry storage of camping equipment.

In daysailing mode, the Wayfarer is suitable for a crew of two to six, and it is for this reason that the dinghy has become the choice of many families and sailing schools. It also has a healthy racing reputation and national and international competitions are now held annually.

Article by Vanessa Bird, author of Classic Classes

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Wayfarer Rigging Guide

Go To: Sailing - Rigging Guides

Posted on 21 September 2009 15:59

The Wayfarer is a great boat for cruising, racing or training. Its' wide double chined hull gives' it great stability, and plenty of space gives it a lot of flexibility. They're easy to rig too, which you're about to find out!

Originally designed in 1957 by Ian Proctor, the Wayfarer is a large, nearly 16 foot long dinghy, suitable for learning, racing or cruising. Once a favourite boat of many sailing schools due to its size and stability, the Wayfarer has since lost out due to the more modern designs such as the Topper Magno, Topper Omega, Laser Stratos or RS Vision. As a glass fibre (GRP) constructed boat, they can be expensive for what they are, and don't take kindly to damage as well as the more modern rotomoulded one-design boats from Laser, Topper and RS.

Photo 1, A wayfarer hull with the mast up

Photo 2, The mast gate and support

Photo 3, Standard rudder pintles

Big enough to comfortably sit three adults (and at a stretch on short journeys up to six), the Wayfarer is capable of longer trips, having even been sailed from Scotland to Iceland. There have been several versions of the design, ranging from wood to GRP, the later versions named the Wayfarer World. They have several internal bouyancy tanks, and usually a back hatch which can be used for storage. Inside, most have floorboards to level the floor, and several different bailing/draining systems can be found underneath. There is also a smaller version of the Wayfarer called the Wanderer.

Photo 4, Mainsheet traveller

Photo 5, The mast with cleats

Photo 6, The mast and spreaders

A typical bermudan rig boat, the Wayfarer has a main and jib sail, and a symmetrical spinnaker (although the Wayfarer World is assymmetric). The boats typically used to be rigged aft-main, although newer models are centre-main, and they are relatively easy to convert. As a restricted design boat, the sail plan/size, hull shape/size and mast length etc are fairly limited, but lots of variations can be found in other aspects, such as booms, fittings, lines etc. The boats we are rigging are aft-main Mark 2 GRP boats. We used two boats to demonstrate some differences between booms and outhaul systems. We will not be rigging a spinnaker on this boat as the spinnaker halyard was unkindly removed.

Photo 7, The parts we need

Photo 8, The rudder with the kicker and mainsheet

What You Need

- Mast, Spreaders, Shroud, and Forestay (unless you've bought from new, these should all be together) - Photos 1, 2 and 6 - Main Sail, Jib Sail - Photo 7 - Battens - Main Sheet ( 10mm x 13 metres ) + Blocks + Traveller - Photos 4 and 8 - Jib Sheet ( 10mm x 10 metres ) - Kicking strap/boom vang assembly + lines - Photo 8 - Outhaul ( depends on arrangement ) - Downhaul ( 5mm x 2 metres ) - Boom - Tiller + Tiller Extension, Rudder - Painter ( 10mm x 3 metres ) - Hull (bit obvious this one) + Centreboard - Bungs (depending upon boat type).

Photo 9, The gooseneck

Photo 10, Attaching the mainsheet block to the traveller

Photo 11, Mainsheet block attached to traveller

As always, remember if you are buying a boat that it may not always come as class legal - we are kindly borrowing these boats from a sailing school and they may not fall to form on class regulations. If in doubt - get a copy of the Class Rules which can be found on the Wayfarer Class assocation website and measure for yourself. If in doubt on any items, contact us !

Lets Get Started

We're going to rig the boat from the front to the back, and we're doing it on dry land as it wasn't a windy day. You may find it easier with a boat this size to get it on the water before you rig it, especially if you have pontoons you can moor up to.

It's a little odd rigging the mainsheet first - but as we took it all off, it's easier to put this back on first before we have sails flapping around. First, attach the relevant block to the mainsheet traveller (here using a pin and split ring, Photos 10 and 11), and then attach the other block to the underside of the boom (shown here attached from the end of the boom, Photo 12). The main sheet on ours here is whipped onto the becket on the pulley block on the traveller (Photo 13).

Photo 12, Mainsheet block on boom

Photo 13, Mainsheet attached

Take the sheet up to the block on the underside of the boom, from front to back through the block, then back to the lower block, and back to front through this block (Photo 14); this is for an aft-main rig arrangement (Photo 15), yours' might be different if it's centremain. Also note the black band on the boom (Photo 16); you may find this on older booms, and it is the optimal point at which to pull the sail out to using the outhaul - pulling it any further past this point flattens and depowers it. You don't tend to see this on many modern boats!

Photo 14, Feeding the mainsheet through the blocks

Photo 15, Boom and mainsheet rigged

Photo 16, Black band on the boom

Photo 17, Attaching the jib to the front of the deck

First, we rig the jib, securing the tack (the front bottom corner) of the jib to the front of the boat, using the metal fixing point and a shackle (Photo 17). Next, we secure the rope stopper for the halyard to the top of the sail (see article) or use a shackle (Photo 18), and then hoist the jib. Secure it around the cleat (see article) as in Photo 19. Attach the jib sheets to the clew of the jib - this is best done by finding the middle of the rope, tying a stopper knot in it, feeding it through the jib clew and then tying another stopper knot the other side to hold the middle of the rope in place. Next, pass the jib sheets through the jib fairleads (Photos 20 and 21), and secure with a stopper or figure 8 knot (Photo 22).

Photo 18, Attaching the jib halyard with a rope stopper

Photo 19, Cleat and coil the halyard

Photo 20, Jibsheets through the fairleads

Photo 21, Feed the jibsheets through the jammers

Feed the main sail car along the bottom of the boom (Photo 23); the wayfarer does not have a loose footed sail, so the boom has to have the sails' bottom edge bolt rope (the thick edge that feeds up the mast or along the boom, again in Photo 23) fed through it, with the small plastic car first (if your sail has one). Feed it all the way along until the eyehole at the tack (the front corner) has reached the front end of the boom. Secure the tack eyehole to the boom using a split pin (Photo 24), then secure the outhaul at the other end.

Photo 22, Secure the jibsheet wiht a knot

Photo 23, Feed the mainsail car into the boom track

Photo 24, Secure the tack of the mainsail

Photo 25, Attaching the basic outhaul to the boom

We have two types of sail and boom shown here; the first type has an exterior boom outhaul, which can be rigged in one of two ways. We've rigged it up by first tying a bowline on the end of the boom (Photo 25), then taking this through the clew (back corner) eyehole of the sail, then back through the end of the boom (Photo 26); this creates a multi-purchase system without using pulley blocks. We've then tied this off and secured it with a series of hitches (Photos 27 and 28). This is for if you do not wish to use the outhaul, and just want a more simple system.

Photo 26, Securing the basic outhaul

Photo 27, Securing the basic outhaul

The exterior boom outhaul is designed for slightly smaller diameter rope than we have. The idea is to take it from the back of the boom as we did, without the half hitches (Photo 29), then take it along the length of the boom. At points along the boom are fairleads or eyeholes (Photo 30), and at the mast end of the boom is a jammer cleat which we have not shown (but are heading towards in Photo 31).

Photo 28, Securing the basic outhaul

Photo 29, Alternative to secure the basic outhaul

Photo 30, Alternative to secure the basic outhaul

For the second type of boom we have, there is an interior outhaul. The outhaul is hidden inside the boom (Photo 32), with the working end that you pull all the way at the front of the boom, coming through a sheave block through to a jammer (and onward to a pully block on this boat) as in Photo 34. The other end is taken around the sheave at the end of the boom (Photo 32), through the clew eyehole in the sail, and then secured to the end of the boom - there is a small notch in the back of the boom which when used with a knot in the rope can secure the outhaul (Photo 33). This may not look very secure - but when under tension, it will not come out. Many more modern high performance dinghies such as the RS200, RS400 and Laser 2000 use this method for securing not only the outhaul, but also the downhaul as well.

Photo 31, Alternative to secure the basic outhaul

Photo 32, The better outhaul

Photo 33, The better outhaul

Photo 34, The better outhaul fed to the cockpit

Raise the sail

Next, we raise the sail. Before you do this - you should put the battens in the sail. This is probably one of the most common things that is forgotten when rigging a boat, and how embarassing is it to pull the sail all the way to the top, and finish rigging to look around and spot the battens lying on the floor? Doubly so when you're doing a rigging guide! The Wayfarer has three battens, and they should all be inserted before hoisting the mainsail.

First, secure the main sail halyard to the head of the sail using a stopper knot like in Photo 35 (at this point, also secure any mast top bouyancy bags you may be using to stop the boat inverting if you capsize). Slot the bolt rope on the luff (front edge) of the sail into the mast groove (Photo 35). One person should feed the mast luff in as the other person hoists the sail by pulling on the halyard (Photo 36). Keep hauling until the sail is at the top of the mast - as the sail reaches the top you may find it easier if the other person lifts up the boom to take the weight off and make hoisting easier. Secure the end of the halyard around the cleat, ours is a figure 8 cleat. Next, pull the boom down onto the gooseneck; if you put it on the gooseneck before hauling it up to the top, you will struggle to pull the sail up with the boom resisting you (Photo 37).

Photo 35, Feed the main sail in to the mast

Photo 36, Hoist the main sail

Photo 37, Pull the boom down onto the gooseneck

We didn't rig a downhaul on this boat as it isn't usually rigged up with one, as it's a training boat. There are however plenty of spare cleats, so it's easy to add one if you wish. Usually, this will involve tying the end of a length of rope to a fitting (on the side of the boom if possible), through the eyehole of the sail, and then down to a cleat. If it's light winds, don't worry - downhauls are only really needed when it gets windy!

Photo 38, Assemble the kicking strap

Photo 39, Assemble the kicking strap

Kicking Strap

As with most kicking straps, there is a great deal of variation out there, particularly if you are ignoring class rules. The kicker on our Wayfarer is a 4:1 ratio. Assemble the kicker as shown (Photos 38 to 41 inclusive) or as necessary if yours is different (get in touch with us if you are stuck with yours). Attach the bottom end to a fitting on the bottom of the mast (usually a fairlead or metal D-Loop) with a shackle (Photo 42), and the top end to the boom fitting - this will be with either a key that fits in a slot, or a shackle fitting (Photo 43).

Photo 40, Assemble the kicking strap

Photo 41, Assemble the kicking strap

Don't tension the kicker too much while you're on land, if it's windy and you tighten it, the force going through the sail into the boom can only make it jump from side to side with a lot of force, but if you leave the kicking strap loose the boom can jump up and down with the wind also, so it will move around side to side less, effectively depowering it and lowering the chance of someone getting knocked out!

Photo 42, Attach the kicking strap to the mast

Next, it's time for the rudder. Drop the rudder onto it's pintles carefully (Photo 45), and then feed the tiller into the top of the rudder (Photo 46). You should have some method to secure the tiller into the rudder stock, as you can see on ours its a split or clevis pin, through a hole in each (Photo 47). This will stop the tiller coming out and the rudder floating off if you capsize. Note we've also put the bungs in at this point (Photo 44).

Photo 43, The finished kicking strap

Photo 44, Secure the bungs

Photo 45, Attach the rudder

Finally, all well setup Wayfarers should have two lines on the rudder, an uphaul and a downhaul. The uphaul can be just a length of rope, on ours going from the middle of the back of the blade (as can be seen in Photo 48) to the tiller (Photo 49), to hold the rudder blade up when you are out of the water. The downhaul is harder to see, but is a length of rope from the front of the underneath of the rudder blade (as can be seen in Photo 48), with a length of elastic attached, which is pulled and fits on a catch or hook on the tiller (we can't show this as you can only do it when sailing to hold the rudder down). When out sailing, pull this and hook it on to keep the rudder blade down - if the rudder hits the bottom, the elastic will come into play and allow the blade to move backwards.

Photo 46, Insert the tiller

Photo 47, Secure the tiller

Photo 48, Secure the rudder blade in the up position

Photo 49, Secure the rudder blade in the up position

Finally, ensure all self-bailers are up, and all bungs are secured. On this boat, the bungs have been tied together, through the rudder pintle with a short length of cord.

There you have it, a fully rigged Wayfarer (Photos 50 and 51) - for the size of the boat, it's astonishingly easy to rig. There are different variations, Mk 1, Mk2, Mk3 and Wayfarer Worlds, all with fairly similar rigging arrangements. However, you can also get centre-main versions which aren't much more difficult to rig, and you can now even get asymmetric versions with a bowsprit. Whatever Wayfarer you are rigging, get it right and you can have a great day cruising, racing or just playing around!

Photo 50, Ready to sail!

Photo 51, Ready to sail!

Fig 1. Get all the gear ready

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• Sailboat Guide

Wayfarer is a 15 ′ 9 ″ / 4.8 m monohull sailboat designed by Ian Proctor and Phil Morrison and built by Hartley Boats and Abbott Boats Inc. starting in 1957.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

The original plywood boat was available also, in kit form. (Small Craft Ltd.) Design updated by Phil Morrison in 2007. A modified version, the CL16 has been built in CANADA.

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• About Sailboat Guide

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United States Wayfarer Association

Class contact information.

Click below

Class Email

Class Website

One-Design Class Type: Dinghy

Was this boat built to be sailed by youth or adults? Both

Approximately how many class members do you have? 100

Photo Credit:Hartley Boats Inc

Photo Credit: Hartley Boats Inc

Photo Credit: Hartley Boats inc

About United States Wayfarer Association

With a Wayfarer, you can do it all – * Learn to Sail * Day-sail or Cruise to Adventures * Race with spinnakers

It easily tows, launches from trolleys, fits in a garage.

Originally designed by Ian Proctor in 1957, Hartley boats has reimagined the class thanks to Phil Morrison with Mark 4’s. This amazing design has sailed from Scotland to Iceland – you’re invited to read about Frank Dye’s adventures for the ultimate cruising adventurer with a Wayfarer.

In the United States, we host a U.S. National Regatta and Easterns, and every other year a North American Wayfarer Regatta shared with our Canadian Wayfarer Association. Every three years there is an International Competition.

Boats Produced: 13000

Class boat builder(s):

Hartley Boats https://www.hartleyboats.com/

Approximately how many boats are in the USA/North America? 950 USA and 1000 CAN

Where is your One-Design class typically sailed in the USA? List regions of the country:

South Eastern Michigan North Carolina Florida New England Wisconsin

Does this class have a spinnaker or gennaker? Yes

How many people sail as a crew including the helm?  2 for Racing

Ideal combined weight of range of crew:  350

Portsmouth Yardstick Rating:   1102

Boat Designed in  1957

Length (feet/inches): 15’10”

Beam: 6’1″

Weight of rigged boat without sails: 372

Draft: 8″

Mast Height: 22’7″

Class Rules (PDF Doc)

Back to One-Design Central

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• Yachting World
• Digital Edition

Faeroes to Norway in a Wayfarer dinghy – Frank Dye’s extraordinary tale of sea survival

• June 7, 2017

Tom Cunliffe introduces a famous extract from Ocean Crossing Wayfarer – the story of Frank Dye's open-water voyages in his Wayfarer dinghy, Wanderer.

When I was a student in Liverpool in the mid-1960s, sailing the university’s Firefly dinghies when I ought to have been studying, the local hero was a young man called Bill Brockbank, writes Tom Cunliffe . His sister attended the same lectures as me.

Bill had sailed to Norway from Scotland with the great Frank Dye in his 16ft unballasted, open Wayfarer dinghy, Wanderer . I only learned the details of this remarkable voyage when I discovered Ocean Crossing Wayfarer , a second edition of which is published by Adlard Coles.

This extract soars beyond a story of indomitable spirit and survival against the odds: it represents the summit of great seamanship. The skill with which Dye and Brockbank coax their cockleshell craft through a northerly storm is officially logged as Force 9, but clearly a lot worse than that at its height.

Their tale is an object lesson in preparation, clear thinking under shocking pressure, understanding the options and, of course, dogged refusal to quit.

The storm hits them on passage from the Faeroes to Ålesund. In subsequent chapters they arrive in good health by their own unfailing efforts. The book, written by Frank and his wife Margaret, is not to be missed.

A full blooded Force 8 was blowing by 1630, and I suggested to Bill that he might like to have a look. His answer was a decided ‘No’.

My view was very impressive — seas long, high and steep, with wave crests cascading down their fronts, and foam everywhere. I sat on the stern locker feeling awed but, surprisingly enough, enjoying such a thrilling sight.

At 1730, under the comfort of the boat cover, I began to write up the log. By now a full Force 9 was shrieking outside.

It was bitterly cold and the wind cut into one’s face like a knife. Bill dozed while I carried on with my log.

Bill Brockbank

Outside, the drogue warp was creaking badly. What a great pity that the Norwich chandlers had been unable to supply us with that 1-ton nylon I had wanted. I was not sure that the half-ton Terylene was adequate for the job.

Almost immediately Wanderer drove back against the sea-anchor. It must have parted, for I felt her swing.

Suddenly, I was choking in a torrent of foaming water; there seemed to be tons of it, all dark green and frothing, pushing me down. It seemed like hours before I surfaced.

I had swallowed a great deal of water and immediately the thought filled my waterlogged brain: ‘If this is drowning, I don’t like it.’

Bill and I were both still in the boat, now both on the port side, and still under the cover, so Wanderer must have rolled completely over, ­possibly several times. The mast crutch had gone, but that seemed all.

I was still clutching the log. We bailed like hell, but there was not so much water as I had expected; probably the cockpit cover had kept a lot out.

We pulled in remains of the sea-anchor warp and I went forward to tie on a small running drogue – an unpleasant task, but a skipper’s job in such conditions.

Admiring a wild scene

The seas were enormous, rearing 30ft above us, with heavy water collapsing from each crest. I got out a haversack to make a temporary drogue; Bill emptied the other rucksack and, by cutting holes in it, threaded them onto the shaft of the grapnel.

We were only just in time, as the running drogue had now gone. Bill surged the new one, trying to keep us head on to the seas. I paused for a few seconds to admire the wild scene, and then we decided that we must have a larger drogue, and quickly.

Fortunately the mainsail was still rolled round the boom – that could be used as a drogue if I put a lashing on one end so that the sail opened into a cone when pulled through the water. Bill suggested that we doubled the warps. What a good idea! We should have done that before.

Working under the cover, I felt fear – if we capsized, I drowned! By uncleating the end of the warp, doubling it and attaching it by a bowline to the mainsheet, which I had already tied securely along the boom, we made ready.

It was a risky operation to go forward to lead the ropes through the fairlead.

Our mainsail drogue worked well. Bill surged it, while I scrambled forward again to bring in the haversack. Not a hope in hell if I get swept off the bows!

The weight of the grapnel anchor was causing our bags to sink too deep, pulling our bows down into the breaking crests; so I pulled it in, removed the grapnel, shackled a short chain through the holes in the haversack with an empty tin of Shell oil on a 6ft line as a float, and once overboard it performed beautifully.

We started a 15-minute watch system to pull Wanderer into any crest that looked like becoming dangerous. It was very wet, very hard, work.

Bill emptied the water with a bucket as far as the floorboards during his watch and I crawled under the cockpit cover to pump out the rest.

By 2015 it was Bill’s watch and the seas were over 30ft and very heavy. Suddenly a real bad one roared down on us from the port side.

It crashed in and rolled us over. I had a fleeting memory of being thrown clean out of the stern, seeing Bill going under me, then the boat coming down on me.

Down I went into the green depths with tremendous weight driving me downwards. More panic — down, down! Needing to breathe, I choked and began to drown.

We both surfaced clear of the boat and ropes, although Bill had the drogue warps over his head and shoulders. He climbed over the stern; I hooked an arm and leg over one side and rolled in as Wanderer rolled towards me.

The boat was completely full. Bill took the warps forward through the fairleads and began to surge away. He had to keep his head up at all costs.

If he was seasick now, he would lose his strength and determination, and those were the only two things that would keep him alive in these conditions. So I bailed with the bucket and felt dreadful.

The mast had gone, the centre section shattered for about 5ft of its length and its top banging into the side of the boat, only held by the halyards and splintered wood. I was about to cut it adrift by severing the shrouds, when Bill suggested that we ought to keep it. ‘We may want it tomorrow,’ he suggested dryly.

Just then I was more concerned about riding out the gale. However, I undid the shrouds and pushed the mess beneath the cover.

Smoking water

It was now quite impossible to look into the wind. It was screaming, and the tops of the waves were blown completely away.

Within our limited vision the whole sea seemed to be smoking. Entire waves were breaking in a wall of solid water with tremendous roars.

About 2100 hours we caught the inevitable. I just had time to shout to Bill.

We both hauled in on the warps frantically, attempting to pull Wanderer through the crest. She rose gallantly, but was in an impossible position: she seemed to be rising at 60° and there was still a 15ft crest curling above us.

The events in this extract occurred to the east of the Faeroes.

Down it came and we were driven bodily under. With ears roaring under tremendous pressure, and swallowing water, I fought back to the surface, only to discover that Wanderer was lying bottom up.

I had visualised this happening. Now we must find the answer quickly if we were to survive.

I found myself at the stern, and pulled myself round to the same side as Bill, and we climbed aboard. It was a bit difficult with waterlogged clothes and boots full of water, but the bilge runner just gave us a toe hold, and we were able to jam our fingers in the centreboard slot.

With the help of the next wave we were able to roll Wanderer over. We climbed in and found her full of water, right to the very top of the rear buoyancy, and began to bail as waves continued to wash in.

Three times they washed straight over us and refilled the boat, then just as we had become almost buoyant, another wave filled us. I heard myself scream out: ‘Oh God! Give us a chance; we haven’t cleared the last lot yet!’

He gave us that chance, and we took it. Bill hauled in on the warps, to swing Wanderer head on to the seas, and held the cover over us, and I bailed flat out.

At 2345 I shouted: ‘Bill, the boat is completely dry, I shall be damned annoyed if you fill it again.’ That was the wrong thing to have said because immediately a sea roared in from port and Wanderer was rolled over.

Once again I remember being thrown clear, Bill going under me, and the hull coming over on top. Again came the ghastly descent into dark green water, feeling the horrible weight over me and choking back to the surface.

Wanderer lay on her side this time. We climbed aboard to find only 3in of water in her. Most extraordinary! She must have rolled very quickly.

We were very tired, especially mentally, and there was a constant roar, the sting of spray and the strain of judging each wave. The clouds began to clear slightly to the north, but the wind was as strong as ever.

If the wind did not die down before darkness fell we should be in real trouble, for we should no longer be able to see the dangerous crests in time to pull the dinghy round to meet them bows on!

It was pitch black at 0030 hours on Wednesday. We were hungry, but could find no food.

It started to rain, but it would need a torrent to kill the sea. By 0130 it was just light enough to see, and there seemed to be a slight reduction in the wind – now about Force 8, and only occasionally gusting to 9.

We were so cold that it took conscious thought to realise the difference in wind strength, but I started to believe that we might survive. I was amazed at Bill’s stamina. He had shown no signs of failing and was in better spirits than a few days ago.

The clouds were breaking up in the northern half of the horizon, but that did not necessarily mean the end of the gale. By dawn the wind was Force 8 and definitely moderating.

A few hours more of this and the seas would have subsided. It was still much too dangerous to leave Wanderer to her own devices, and we continued working the warps, swinging her to meet each breaking sea.

It was bitterly cold, and we were both shivering violently. I felt sick with the amount of salt water I had swallowed and when Bill passed me a water container, I drank deeply.

At 0430 hours it was full daylight. The seas were as high as ever, but the wind was no more than Force 7.

Mostly the seas were now breaking on the back face. Occasionally we shipped a green one, but fortunately they did not capsize us.

I still could not relax and was desperately tired. An hour later the seas were still as bad, but the wind was dropping to Force 6.

Bill was still working like a trooper, his strength never failing. Suddenly I realised that the worst was over, and felt bemused, numb with the reaction. We badly needed food.

Wayfarer Boat: Exploring the Versatility and Adventure of this Classic Vessel

by Emma Sullivan | Aug 12, 2023 | Sailing Adventures

Short answer: Wayfarer boat

The Wayfarer boat is a popular sailing dinghy designed for both leisure and competitive racing. It offers stability, versatility, and ease of handling, making it suitable for sailors of all skill levels. Developed in the 1950s, the Wayfarer is known for its durability and spacious cockpit, accommodating up to 4 people. With a variety of rigging options available, it can be adapted for different sailing conditions.

Exploring the Versatility and Beauty of the Wayfarer Boat

Title: Exploring the Versatility and Beauty of the Wayfarer Boat: The Perfect Vessel for Adventure

Introduction: When it comes to boats, few can match the iconic status and timeless appeal of the Wayfarer. Renowned for its versatility, beauty, and exceptional craftsmanship, this vessel has captured the hearts of sailors worldwide. In this blog post, we will delve into what makes the Wayfarer boat so special, exploring its remarkable features that make it perfect for any sailing adventure .

1. Impeccable Design: The Wayfarer’s design is a striking blend of classic elegance and practicality. With sleek lines and a sturdy construction, this boat epitomizes both form and function. Its carefully calculated hull shape ensures stability in different conditions while providing excellent handling capabilities – allowing even beginners to sail with confidence.

2. Unparalleled Versatility: One of the most appealing traits of the Wayfarer is its exceptional versatility. Whether you are planning a leisurely day cruise or aiming for more challenging offshore adventures, this vessel can handle it all. Thanks to its generous storage capacity and cabin space, you can easily pack everything needed for extended trips across vast water bodies or simply enjoy relaxing moments on peaceful lakes.

3. Ease of Use: Sailing enthusiasts often talk about the ease with which one can operate a Wayfarer boat – even solo! While being accommodating enough to comfortably fit up to four people, this vessel’s thoughtful design allows single-handed operation without compromising safety or maneuverability. Novice sailors will appreciate how quickly they can familiarize themselves with sailing techniques aboard the user-friendly Wayfarer.

4. Customization Options: The beauty of owning a Wayfarer lies not only in its performance but also in personalizing it according to your preferences and needs. From vibrant color options to various rigging choices and accessories like spinnakers or jibs, you have an array of customization possibilities. This boat is truly a blank canvas, ready to be molded into your dream vessel.

5. A Living Legacy: When you own a Wayfarer, you become part of a rich history and an active sailing community. Introduced in 1957, this classic design has stood the test of time and remains incredibly popular today. The Wayfarer Class Association offers numerous events and races for enthusiasts to participate in and connect with fellow sailors who share their passion for this extraordinary boat.

Conclusion: In conclusion, the Wayfarer boat stands as a symbol of both beauty and practicality in the sailing world . Its versatile design, ease of use, customizable features, and captivating history make it an exceptional choice for any sailor seeking unforgettable adventures on the water . Whether you are venturing into uncharted territories or leisurely exploring serene lakeshores, the Wayfarer will undoubtedly provide a remarkable experience every time you take it out on the open sea . So why not embark on your next sailing escapade aboard this iconic vessel ?

How to Sail and Enjoy a Wayfarer Boat: A Step-by-Step Guide

Have you ever dreamed of gliding across the water, harnessing the wind’s power , with nothing but serenity surrounding you? Look no further, as we unveil the perfect vessel for your maritime dreams – the Wayfarer boat. This article will provide you with a detailed, professional, witty, and clever step-by-step guide on how to sail and truly enjoy this remarkable boat .

Step 1: Familiarize Yourself with the Wayfarer Boat

Before embarking on your sailing adventure, take some time to acquaint yourself with the different components that make the Wayfarer boat unique. Its sturdy construction and versatility allow it to navigate various conditions effortlessly. Familiarize yourself with its hull design, sails, deck layout, centerboard or keel options, halyards and control lines – these will be your keys to navigating smoothly through any waters.

Step 2: Learn Basic Sailing Techniques

To master sailing in a Wayfarer boat or any other vessel gracefully, understanding basic sailing techniques is crucial. Start by learning about points of sail – like close-hauled (where the wind approaches directly from ahead), reaching (sailing at an angle relative to the wind), and running (when the wind comes directly from behind). These principles will help you maneuver efficiently using your sails’ power.

Step 3: Rigging Your Wayfarer

Rigging might sound daunting at first, but fear not! With our step-by-step instructions combined with wit and humor for good measure, this process will become second nature in no time. Prepare your mainsail and jib by attaching them securely to their respective spars while making sure all connections are fastened tightly. Next, assemble both mast sections together before stepping it onto its base confidently. Adjust your standing rigging by pulling firmly but gently until everything is suitably taut. Now, doesn’t that sound simple and delightful?

Step 4: Hoisting the Sails

Once your Wayfarer is appropriately rigged, it’s time to hoist those marvelous sails and watch as the wind breathes life into them. Release your jib halyard, allowing the sail to climb confidently up the mast while ensuring it remains untangled. With a swift tug on your mainsail halyard, see how it elegantly ascends to its rightful place at the top of the mast. Ahoy! Your ship is ready to seize the day!

Step 5: Taking Control with Rudder and Centerboard

As you set sail in your beautiful Wayfarer boat, controlling its path becomes essential for a safe and enjoyable voyage. The rudder controls the steering while preventing unwanted weather helm or lee helm – terms that make sailing sound more like an epic battle than peaceful seafaring! Balance is key here; adjust your rudder according to wind conditions and fine-tune its sensitivity along the way.

Don’t forget about your centerboard or keel options either! Deploying them helps stabilize your boat ‘s lateral movement while reducing drift when going against crosswinds. Imagine yourself gliding through waters with grace and ease – just like a dolphin surfing waves.

Step 6: Safety First – Learn Rescue Techniques

Even experienced sailors encounter challenges from time to time, so being prepared for unexpected circumstances is paramount. Familiarize yourself with rescue techniques such as capsize recovery drills, including righting a capsized boat swiftly and safely .

Approach these scenarios with confidence; remember, even Sir Francis Drake had his fair share of mishaps on his voyages around the world!

Step 7: Embrace Adventure and Enjoy Sailing in Your Wayfarer Boat

With every wave you conquer and every nautical mile behind you, immerse yourself in the magic of sailing aboard your Wayfarer boat . Appreciate the wind’s whispers and nature’s presence, allowing the stress of everyday life to dissolve and be replaced by tranquility.

Capture these precious moments – maybe even take a snapshot of your triumphant return to shore – and share them with fellow sailors, inviting them to join in on the joys of sailing a Wayfarer.

In conclusion, mastering the art of sailing and truly appreciating the beauty of a Wayfarer boat is an experience like no other. Follow our step-by-step guide filled with witty humor and clever advice, courtesy of passionate sailors who understand the allure this vessel holds.

So grab your captain’s hat, hoist your sails, and set off on an extraordinary adventure aboard a Wayfarer boat – where serenity meets excitement, tranquility blends with adrenaline, and every moment becomes etched into memories that will last a lifetime.

Frequently Asked Questions about Wayfarer Boats: Everything You Need to Know

Welcome to our blog section where we aim to answer all frequently asked questions about Wayfarer boats. Whether you are new to sailing or a seasoned sailor , we believe it’s important to address any doubts or queries you may have.

1. What is a Wayfarer boat?

The Wayfarer boat is a versatile and reliable sloop-rigged sailing dinghy that has gained immense popularity worldwide. Designed in 1957 by Ian Proctor, this iconic boat offers stability, simplicity, and performance all in one package. Its spacious cockpit allows for comfortable cruising with friends and family, while its excellent handling characteristics make it suitable for racing as well.

2. What makes the Wayfarer boat so special?

One of the standout features of the Wayfarer boat is its unparalleled versatility . Whether you want to embark on an adventurous solo sail or enjoy a leisurely day out with loved ones, this boat can accommodate your needs. Its sturdy construction enables sailing in various water conditions including lakes, rivers, coastal areas, and even open ocean passages.

3. Is the Wayfarer boat suitable for beginners ?

Absolutely! The Wayfarer’s forgiving nature and straightforward rigging system make it an ideal choice for novice sailors . Its stability ensures that even those without much experience can confidently navigate the waters . Additionally, there are numerous national and international training programs available specifically for newcomers who want to learn how to sail a Wayfarer.

4. Can I race with a Wayfarer boat?

Certainly! The Wayfarer class association organizes competitive racing events across the globe throughout the year. These races range from local club regattas to prestigious international championships. With its exceptional maneuverability and robust build quality, the Wayfarer excels both on short courses and during long-distance races.

5. How many people can comfortably sail in a Wayfarer?

The beauty of the Wayfarer lies in its generous capacity. Depending on the model or layout, it can comfortably accommodate 4-5 people without feeling overcrowded. The spacious cockpit and ample seating ensure everyone has a comfortable spot to enjoy the journey.

6. Is maintenance difficult for Wayfarer boats ?

Caring for a Wayfarer is relatively easy due to its durable construction and low-maintenance materials. Routine upkeep involves regular cleaning, inspecting the rigging for any signs of wear, and ensuring the hull remains in good condition. Generally speaking, with proper care, a Wayfarer boat will provide years of sailing pleasure.

7. Can I customize my Wayfarer?

Absolutely! With numerous accessories and customization options available, you can personalize your Wayfarer boat to suit your preferences and needs. These upgrades can range from performance-enhancing additions such as racing sails or a spinnaker system to comfort-centric features like extra storage compartments or improved seating cushions.

In conclusion, the Wayfarer boat offers an unbeatable combination of versatility, reliability, and excitement for sailors across all skill levels. Whether you are looking for a family-friendly cruising experience or desire some competitive racing action, this iconic vessel has got you covered! So hop aboard a Wayfarer today and embark on unforgettable adventures on the water !

Unlocking the Secrets of the Wayfarer Boat: Tips and Tricks for Beginners

Ah, the Wayfarer boat – a vessel shrouded in mystery yet beckoning adventure seekers from all corners of the world. If you’re one of those daring newbies embarking on a journey with this iconic boat, we have just the arsenal of tips and tricks to help unlock its secrets and set sail like a seasoned pro. So grab your cap, hoist that mainsail, and prepare to embark on an enchanting voyage!

1. Understand Your Vessel Before diving headfirst into the vast blue expanse, take some time to acquaint yourself with the inner workings of your Wayfarer boat . From bow to stern, explore every nook and cranny – grasp its elegant design, feel its sturdy construction under your fingertips, become one with the boat. Understanding your vessel is key to sailing confidently and making quick adjustments when needed.

2. Mastering Sail Trim Ahoy there! The winds may howl, but fear not, for we have the secret to harnessing their power at your command – mastering sail trim. Adjusting both main and jib sails accordingly will enable you to control your boat ‘s speed and direction effortlessly. Study wind patterns like an ancient mariner studying constellations; play with trimming angles like a symphony conductor creating sweet harmonies – find that perfect balance where wind dances in sync with water beneath your hull.

3. Ride the Ripples – Boat Balance Imagine you are gracefully tangoing atop ripples subtly caressing your Wayfarer’s hull – yes! It’s all about maintaining proper boat balance on those shimmering waters. Distributing weight among crew members or adjusting equipment placement can make all the difference between smoothly slicing through waves or sluggishly bobbing along.

4. Embrace Tacking Maneuvers Fear not brave sailors; tacking maneuvers shall be your trusted ally amidst treacherous waters. Master the art of swiftly crossing the wind – intelligently alternating your sails from one side to the other. This technique allows you to evade obstacles like a nimble ninja, keeping your boat in control and gracefully navigating through intricate passages.

5. Safety is Key While unlocking secrets and maximizing excitement are essential, nothing outweighs the value of safety at sea. Equip yourself with knowledge on marine rescue techniques, invest in personal flotation devices, and always be aware of weather conditions . Protecting yourself and others onboard ensures that each adventure ends with memories to cherish rather than cautionary tales.

6. Join an Enthusiastic Community As a beginner in this mesmerizing world of Wayfarers, joining a community of like-minded enthusiasts can prove invaluable. Their collective wisdom will open doors to seemingly elusive techniques and hidden gems within the sailing realm. Seek out online forums or local sailing clubs where you can meet spirited sailors keen on sharing their experiences – learn, grow, sail together!

So there you have it, dear adventurers – our guide to unlocking the secrets of the Wayfarer boat for beginners! Approach your voyage with confidence, embrace both challenges and triumphs along the way, and soon you’ll find yourself part of an illustrious lineage of seafarers who dared tread upon uncharted waters.

Remember – embrace the winds, follow this compass of wisdom we’ve bestowed upon you, and let your journey unfold as an epic tale – filled with laughter, saltwater kisses from gentle spray, and breathtaking sunsets on horizons yet unseen!

From Construction to Completion: Building Your Own Wayfarer Boat from Scratch

Are you an adventure enthusiast who dreams of sailing the open seas? Look no further! In this blog post, we will take you on a journey of building your own Wayfarer boat from scratch. Get ready to set sail on a thrilling DIY project that combines craftsmanship, innovation, and a sprinkle of nautical charm.

Construction Phase: Turning Dreams into Reality

Every great venture starts with solid groundwork, and building your very own Wayfarer boat is no exception. The initial step involves meticulously planning out the design, materials, and dimensions required for your vessel . With plenty of online resources and forums available at your fingertips, undertaking this ambitious task has never been easier.

Next comes the procurement stage, where one must gather all the necessary raw materials that will ultimately form the backbone of your boat . Attention to detail is key here – selecting high-quality marine-grade plywood ensures durability and longevity against any weather conditions Mother Nature may throw your way.

Now that we have our materials ready, it’s time to roll up our sleeves and dive into construction mode. Starting with the hull formation, we need to follow precise measurements while cutting pieces of plywood according to plan. Fear not if this seems intimidating for novices; plenty of online tutorials provide step-by-step instructions with visual aids.

Assembling each section together requires patience and accuracy—no room for shortcuts in achieving optimal performance . Investing extra effort during this phase will pay dividends during sea trials in the near future.

Refinement Phase: Polish Your Gem

Building a boat isn’t just about merging planks and screws; it’s about fine-tuning every detail until perfection is achieved. Sanding down rough edges allows for a sleek finish that not only enhances aesthetics but also ensures streamlined functionality while gliding through waters .

Once satisfied with the smoothness, it’s time to bring color into play. Choosing marine-grade paint designed to withstand harsh marine environments adds a vibrant touch while safeguarding your masterpiece from relentless sunrays and salty water. Spraying on multiple coats with care and precision will guarantee a breathtaking final result.

Completing the Look: Embellish Your Vessel

With construction and refinement stages complete, it’s time for personalization! Make your Wayfarer boat truly reflect your style by adding customizable features like handcrafted wooden accents, tasteful upholstery, or even personalized emblematic flags.

Moreover, no sailing experience is complete without properly outfitting your vessel. Think in terms of storage compartments to stow away essentials, conveniently placed cup holders for refreshments on deck, or even eco-friendly solar panels to charge electronic gadgets during long journeys.

Conclusion: Smooth Sailing Ahead

Your journey from construction to completion is finally at its end! As you behold the magnificent vessel you’ve crafted with your own hands, satisfaction and pride will undoubtedly wash over you. From meticulously constructing the hull to refining each detail with finesse—this endeavor has nurtured your patience, honed your craftsmanship skills, and rewarded you with a functional work of art ready to tackle endless adventures on the high seas.

Embrace this newfound achievement as a testament to human ingenuity and creativity. Building your own Wayfarer boat from scratch unveils a world of limitless possibilities where passion meets tangible realization. So set sail confidently into vast oceans, knowing that the winds will guide you towards extraordinary experiences yet to be discovered. Bon voyage!

Mastering the Art of Maintenance: Keeping Your Wayfarer Boat in Top Shape

When it comes to owning a Wayfarer boat, mastering the art of maintenance is absolutely crucial. Not only does well-maintained vessel ensure your safety and enjoyment while out on the water, but it also helps preserve the longevity and performance of your beloved boat. So, fasten your life jacket and prepare to dive into some expert tips on how to keep your Wayfarer boat in top shape!

First and foremost, regular cleaning is key. Although it may seem mundane, this task plays a significant role in preventing dirt buildup, rust, and other potential damage caused by exposure to the elements. Make it a habit to wash down your boat after every outing using a mild detergent or specialized marine cleaner. Don’t forget to pay attention to hard-to-reach areas like the hull’s underside as they can be hotspots for debris accumulation.

Speaking of the hull, keeping it free from any scratches or dings not only enhances its aesthetic appeal but also ensures optimal performance . Consider applying a protective coating or anti-fouling paint that acts as a barrier against marine growth such as barnacles or algae. Additionally, inspect your boat regularly for any signs of corrosion or damage and promptly address them before they worsen.

Moving onto the technical aspects of maintenance, maintaining your engine should always be at the forefront of your mind. Regularly servicing your engine not only prevents unexpected breakdowns but also optimizes fuel efficiency and extends its lifespan. Consult with boat mechanics or refer to manufacturer guidelines regarding recommended service intervals. Lubricating essential components and replacing filters are small tasks that go a long way in reducing wear and tear on your engine.

Another important aspect often overlooked is checking electrical systems for any signs of wear or malfunctioning components. This includes inspecting wiring connections, battery terminals, navigation lights, horn functionality – basically anything related to electricity onboard! Any issues you detect should be addressed promptly by experts since electrical problems can jeopardize both safety and the boat’s overall performance.

Now, let’s talk about one of the most critical components – your sails . Proper sail care is essential for optimal performance and longevity. Firstly, always ensure that your sails are dried off and stored properly after each use to prevent mildew or mold growth. Inspect them carefully for any signs of wear and tear such as frayed edges or compromised stitching. A well-tuned rigging system guarantees maximum control over your sails, so invest time in adjusting tensions and inspecting lines for wear.

Remember, safety should never be compromised when it comes to boating. Alongside routine maintenance tasks, make sure that you regularly check on safety equipment such as life jackets, fire extinguishers, flares, and distress signals. Test all navigation instruments such as compasses and GPS devices to ensure accuracy before every voyage.

In conclusion, mastering the art of maintenance for your Wayfarer boat demands a combination of regular cleaning habits, attention to detail on key components like the hull, engine, electrical systems, sails, as well as ensuring all safety equipment is in working order. With a little dedication to maintenance efforts and an eye for detail in caring for your beloved vessel professionally while injecting some wit into the process – you’ll undoubtedly enjoy countless unforgettable journeys on your Wayfarer boat!

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Wayfarer Dinghy

04.05.16  –  By: Graham Loveland  –  In: Boats

Ian Proctor (1918-1992) had more than one hundred designs to his credit including the Gull, National 18, Tempest, Topper, Wayfarer, and Wanderer. Each of these designs has its own attraction and adherents, but perhaps the one design that has proven over more than 50 years, to appeal to the widest audience is the Wayfarer.

Proctor conceived the Wayfarer back in 1957 originally as a dinghy to be suitable for day sailing and cruising. With its flat bottom boards, and with the erection of a boom tent, owners could sleep aboard, albeit in somewhat Spartan conditions, as so well demonstrated by Frank and Margaret Dye in their classic long distance dinghy cruising. The Wayfarer quickly became popular among a wider range of users, with racing helmsmen and sailing schools both adopting the design. To this day the Wayfarer remains a hugely popular boat in use in sailing schools due to its capacity (at nearly 16ft in length it can accommodate up to six adults), its stability and seaworthiness, and its ability to offer satisfying sailing. To date some 11,000 Wayfarers have been built. Although by the standards of dinghy design this is not an especially large number, and indeed some of Proctor’s other designs, notably the Topper, have seen more boats built, the Wayfarer remains a classic among dinghy designs, and is still going strong today.

The Mark I boat was designed for construction in plywood either by amateurs or licensed builders, with a double chine hull to give a compromise between stability and ease of construction. Wooden boats continued in production well after glass reinforced plastic (GRP) was becoming common in boat building, as the wooden boats offered a degree of stiffness for racing sailors not found in the earlier GRP versions. The last wooden boat, number 9558, was built around 1994.

GRP construction commenced in 1965 with a number of internal changes, although the hull design remains to this day essentially as originally conceived. Most of these differences revolved around the positioning of the forward bulkhead, the construction of buoyancy compartments and the implications of this for recovering the boat after a capsize. The Mark II GRP boat, introduced in 1974, enjoyed almost as long a run as the Mark I wooden boat, and more boats were built to this design than to any other version of the Wayfarer. Other variations followed and in the early 1990s there were six different versions all in production at the same time.

Shortly before his death Ian Proctor collaborated with his son, Keith, in designing the Wayfarer World, an all GRP version with a self-draining cockpit and a removable aft storage tank, which allowed for transom flaps and facilitated drainage after a capsize, and a spinnaker chute.

The latest incarnation, the Mark IV, was introduced in 2007, when all other earlier designs, except the “World” and “World S”, ceased production. The redesign was carried out at the commission of the Wayfarer class association by the former successful racing helmsman and dinghy designer Phil Morrison. His brief was to update the design for the current generation, to take advantage of modern production techniques and to modernise the internal layout. Morrison looked at all the variations that had occurred in the class rules since its introduction as well as examining those boats and features that had proved successful on the racing circuit. The result has been a boat with a more spacious internal layout, easier to right and drain, which has served to give the class a new lease of life.

Because of the way in which the class rules have ensured that older boats can remain competitive with newer derivations, Wayfarers tend to maintain strong second hand values and remain popular boats among dinghy sailors. Racers generally prefer the stiffer hulls of wooden or foam sandwich construction boats (the “Plus S” or “World S” variants), while cruisers and day sailors tend to prefer the greater storage facilities in the Mark I or II, or the later “World” design.

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Sky International

Hartley Wayfarer

The ultimate all rounder the Wayfarer has been top of the class for over 50 years, the new GRP mark IV has revitalised this classic making it once again the flagship cruiser, trainer & racer in hundreds of training centres, resorts and racing clubs nationally & internationally. Vibrant class association promoting regular well attended cruising & racing events at home & abroad.

Hartley Wayfarer Features

• Leave on moorings
• Takes up to 6 people
• Very easy to right by one person
• Righted with very little water to bail, self drain tubes and bailers drain the water
• Optional removable rear locker will take an outboard motor
• Optional slab reefing, head buoyancy pads
• Ideal for use with outboard motor. Rowable if all else fails
• GRP construction means she will last and last

Specifications

• Length – 4.82m
• Beam – 1.85m
• Hull weight – 183kg
• Max, Carrying Capacity – 6 People
• Main sail Area – 8.83m2
• Jib sail Area – 2.79m2
• Genoa sail Area – 4.27m2
• Spinnaker Area – 13.5m2

The Hartley Wayfarer is available in a number of setup options, please go to the official site www.hartleyboats.com to see the full range of options. We are here to help too, feel free to get in touch and we can help with pricing and details, please call +852 2827 5876 or use our contact page .

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• Description

The Wayfarer is a high quality, hand-built G.R.P. dinghy suitable for all the family. At just under 16 foot this spacious dinghy can comfortably accommodate up to 6 adults.

Its excellent handling characteristics ensure that beginners quickly gain confidence and can also relax and have fun sooner. Meanwhile more experienced sailors can enjoy club racing or the challenges of the racing circuit.

The solid G.R.P. construction of the Mark IV provides good stiffness, long term durability and also very stylish lines. G.R.P. is easy to take care of which enables the Wayfarer to be maintained at a very high standard for many years.

The Wayfarer is a very versatile craft with a vast range of options for training, cruising and racing. In short, it can be rigged for one purpose and later re-rigged to meet your changing needs.

Asymmetric or Symmetric

The Wayfarer available with either asymmetric or symmetric (conventional) spinnakers. Originally intended for sailing schools the asymmetric spinnaker option is now available for all. It provides an exciting new dimension to this classic class. Asymmetric spinnakers are great fun and also very easy to use. They offer a great alternative for training and cruising and at club level you may be able to use an asymmetric spinnaker for local racing but they are not yet class legal for championship racing events.

• Over 50 years proven history
• Created by one of the world’s best designers Ian Proctor
• Stability is the best in its field
• Flexible, for experienced sailors to novices
• PN Rating 1101

The Racing Hartley Wayfarer

The Racing Wayfarer is constructed with speed and agility in mind and provides an exhilarating three sail performance under spinnaker. This boat is very suitable for racing on short or long courses on inland and coastal waters. There is an active Wayfarer class association that provides a full schedule of racing events locally, nationally and internationally.

The Cruising Hartley Wayfarer

The Cruising Wayfarer is ideal for pottering around with the ease of a furling jib and a reef-able mainsail, it is big enough for spending a night under the stars and it can be fitted with oars, anchors or even an outboard engine to suit your cruising needs. Our boats are built to order so you can choose from a range of options to suit your intended use.

The Training Hartley Wayfarer

Training Wayfarers are constructed with extra strengthening in the areas that come under high stress in sailing schools and resorts. Training boats are available in a variety of options which can include asymmetric or symmetric spinnakers or even both options in the same boat. They can have rear seats fitted or not and even a trapeze option. Also fit them out with masthead flotation to forestall inversion and all round bumpers to guard against bumps and scraped.

Although updated in 2008 by Phil Morrison to take full advantage of modern design, manufacturing and building techniques, the Wayfarer has an unrivalled pedigree and has been one of the worlds safest and most popular sailing dinghies since it was first designed as an all round training, cruising and racing dinghy by Ian proctor in 1957.

The Wayfarer is a high quality, hand built, G.R.P. constructed training dinghy. The solid construction of both its hull and deck ensures stiffness together with long term durability. With a length of just over 16 foot, this dinghy provides ample room for up to 6 people to sail in comfort. Its length, together with its excellent handling characteristics ensure that you are soon confident with the boat and leaves you to focus on having fun with the family. With options for jib furling, spinnakers and outboard motors this really is a hugely versatile craft.

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Wayfarer tk trainer £18995 incl vat.

Specification

Having spent thousands of pounds from my pension pot buying the worlds very best 16ft dinghy, the Wayfarer, a dinghy rated at the top of all other dinghies for stability and handling capabilities in big seas with strong wind's.

For many years I asked my naval architect 'could you improve the Wayfarer, can it be done?', the answer was 'YES'.

Hartley Boats are proud to announce the launch of our new Wayfarer TK Trainer.

How, you might ask, can I state that this is the best training boat in the world? It is as follows; the boom is higher (more headroom), controls led back to centre, reefs down in seconds with slab reefing on the main and our furling reefable genoa system. Then, take weight out of the construction and fit a 60kg cast-iron centreboard this making the boat virtually impossible to capsize. When forced over it will not invert and rights itself and, when in water with water on its sails just a little help with one hand on the centreboard and the boat rights.

The boat is so stable and easy to sail. 

During testing with full sails, asymmetric kite flying in windy conditions, gybing, sailing single-handed was easy. The decision to take the weight out of the hull and out into the 60kg cast-iron centreboard has delivered a well-balanced training boat that does not require a more powerful rig.

We now have the very best training boat money can buy.     

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Tuning Your Wayfarer

Simple procedure to optimize performance.

Before you start setting up your rig you need to check out some of these basics 1: Make Sure the mast is braced securely to the hull at its foot. 2: At deck level the mast should have no sideways movement and have chocks to stop forward movement. 3: A way to achieve needed rig tension either Muscle Box or cascade system 4:A rig tension gauge and a tape measure of at least 24′ (8m) and a straight edge like a batten 40″ (975mm)

The following 3 steps of mast set-up are interrelated and so need to be repeated until the base settings are archived.

1: Set the spreader lengths and angles, this controls the prebend of the mast to match the luff curve in the mainsail.

It’s important to set the spreaders correctly before fitting the mast to the boat. Each spreader should be set to 508mm as above diagram measured from mast wall to the shroud. It’s important the angle of the spreaders are equal on both sides and spreaders are fixed. To start with the measurement from shroud to shroud should be 965mm as above digram. The defection the distance between the luff grove and a line running from shroud shroud should be 200mm as shown in diagram above.

2. Mast foot position and rake

Before you step the mast make sure all mast chocks are removed. Step mast and attach shrouds and forestay but do not tension. Next remove mast pin so the mast step is taking full weight of the mast. This is a good time to check the mast is free to move fore and aft at deck level but has no side to side play. At this point pull the heal of the mast back till it’s touching the pin in the mast step. It’s now time to load the Genoa and tension the rig to 150kg. Next step is to push the mast forward at the height of your spinnaker pole ring this will allow the mast to take the prebend the spreaders are dictating if it has not already done so. First check is to see if you can get your mast pin to go through without restriction. The mast pin should be no thicker the a 1/4″ and should be able to slide in with no or very little resistance. If the mast pin goes in we are ready to check the rake.

Ouch if the pin will not go through. If it’s hitting the front or back of the pivot hole in the mast do not sweet skip to section 3 checking rake then recheck pin for fit. More to come on corrections if rake is right. If the pin will not go through because it’s fitting the top of the pivot hole you will have to put a shine under the mast foot. The worst case would be the pin hitting the bottom of the pivot hole in the mast then depending on your boat you will have to figure out the best solution. I have only seen this problem on one kit boat since I stared sailing with Al in the mid 1980’s. Ok if your rake is right and the pin is still hitting the front or the back of the pivot hole in the mast you will need to take the rig tension off and adjust the pin in the mast step which controls how far the foot of the mast comes back.

3. Setting the Mast rake

Mast is steeped rig tension is 150kg mast has been pushed forward at spinnaker pole loop to make sure pre bend is set. Mast pin is out. Let’s set the rake.

Attach tape measure to main halyard and raise it to 5.866m (19′ 3″) from the top to the middle band #1 as shown in above digram above. Cleat the main halyard at this point then take the measuring tape to the stern of the boat and measure the distance to the top of the transom. Mark IV should be 7.24m to 7.29m (23′ 9″ to 23′ 11″) all other Mark’s 7.14 to 7.185 (23′ 5″ to 23′ 7″) measured to the bottom of the trailer rail. You may need to adjust the length of the shrouds to achieve this. Once you are in the range drop main halyard and make tight down the back grove of the mast to check prebend, you should have a gap of about 25mm to 38mm (1″ to 1.5″) between the halyard and and the mast grove at it widest point. If all is ok time to go sailing. If you can not achieve desired settings back to step #1. Note some old Mast and Marks may need they’re spreader angles adjusted slightly to achieve the settings.