baby stay on sailboat

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purpose of baby stay?

• Thread starter Ardenfour
• Start date 4 Dec 2014

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My recently acquired boat came with what was deswcribed as a 'quick-release' baby stay. A full-thickness wire stay attached with a snap shackle and rigging with a fold-out handle, to tension/detension the stay. Runs from a deck u-bolt about 5ft in front of the mast up to the spreaders. The p & s lowers are in line with the shrouds, so any decent tension on the baby induces a mast bend. It's a masthead rig. I thought the idea with a masthead rig was to keep the stick straight at all costs - a bend simply meant that the forestay would not tighten, but would increase the bend? Tacking would be a lot smoother without the baby to foul the genoa, so what's it for? and can I move it out the way under some conditions?  

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Ardenfour said: My recently acquired boat came with what was deswcribed as a 'quick-release' baby stay. A full-thickness wire stay attached with a snap shackle and rigging with a fold-out handle, to tension/detension the stay. Runs from a deck u-bolt about 5ft in front of the mast up to the spreaders. The p & s lowers are in line with the shrouds, so any decent tension on the baby induces a mast bend. It's a masthead rig. I thought the idea with a masthead rig was to keep the stick straight at all costs - a bend simply meant that the forestay would not tighten, but would increase the bend? Tacking would be a lot smoother without the baby to foul the genoa, so what's it for? and can I move it out the way under some conditions? Click to expand...

Phoenix of Hamble

If you pull the centre of the mast forward, the top can actually goes aft a little, and if it does, the forestay will be tightened... bending the mast will also flatten the main depowering it a little... far from a straight mast being essential, managing mast shape is a useful skill in getting the boat to work well, and can help manage power and balance. Sometimes also, a detachable babystay is to stop the mast pumping as much as changing the mast's shape. EDIT - if its detachable, presumably the rig is set up to be secure without it, and the stay is there mainly to provide an extra control to mast shape, and extra support in extreme conditions, so should be fine under normal sailing without it.  

Ardenfour said: My recently acquired boat came with what was deswcribed as a 'quick-release' baby stay. Click to expand...

VicS, the lowers are in line with the cap shrouds - go to the same chainplate  

lpdsn said: If it's a quick release one it may be a retro-fit for a storm jib. Is there a halyard associated with it? Click to expand...

It simply controls the centre section of the rig fore and aft in association with aft shrouds. It can stop the mast inverting or as others said induce more mast bend to de power main. This is a good document to understand your rig http://www.riggingandsails.com/pdf/selden-tuning.pdf  

No halyard associated with it - I wouldn't like to attach any sail to it, there seems to be nothing to stop the mast bending forwards in the middle as lowers are in line with caps...  

Phoenix of Hamble said: If you pull the centre of the mast forward, the top can actually goes aft a little, and if it does, the forestay will be tightened... bending the mast will also flatten the main depowering it a little... far from a straight mast being essential, managing mast shape is a useful skill in getting the boat to work well, and can help manage power and balance. Sometimes also, a detachable babystay is to stop the mast pumping as much as changing the mast's shape. EDIT - if its detachable, presumably the rig is set up to be secure without it, and the stay is there mainly to provide an extra control to mast shape, and extra support in extreme conditions, so should be fine under normal sailing without it. Click to expand...

Ha! Way too technical for me! Wot's that then?  

Ardenfour said: VicS, the lowers are in line with the cap shrouds - go to the same chainplate Click to expand...

Ardenfour said: Ha! Way too technical for me! Wot's that then? Click to expand...

Ok, just googled that, don't think I'll be doing much of that!  

Ardenfour said: Ok, just googled that, don't think I'll be doing much of that! Click to expand...

sailorman said: detachable is to facilitate for dip pole gybing Click to expand...

VicS said: Gybing the pole will be difficiult by any method with a baby stay in place wont it. Click to expand...

VicS yes, lowers are inline. This (poorer) picture shows the lowers and caps on same plate. The reason the spreaders appear swept back slightly is due to the baby stay bending the mast.  

sailorman said: Are you sure :sleeping: You know more than the OP then Vic who posed the question as he didnt Click to expand...

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• Thread starter Al
• Start date Aug 1, 2006
• Macgregor Owner Forums
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Hey, ALL.My question of the day is how far from the mast step do you install the baby stays?How high up the mast do you mount baby stays?My understanding is as far away as possible and as high as possible, probably as high as lower shrouds...this way ther will be less stress on it..RIGHT???But'what's the reasonable distance/height?How long are your baby stays?Thanks.Any input/pix are appreciated ([email protected])I'll be posting some pix of my project soon.  

The instructuction sheet I got from BWY says to connect the baby stays 67" from the bottom of the mast. I went 72" and connected them along with the bale that the winch hooks to. They should be 47" apart where they connect to the deck, "and such that the middle of the mounting plate is even with the back edge of the mast".  

winch? I would only have to guess that the winch that you are talking about is the one on a gin pole(or whatever it's called)?I was thinking of using a block and tackle(like a mainsheet) and thru a block in a bow run the same sheet to my primary winch and use that to crank it up.How thick are your baby stays? 1/8 ?Do you use a crutch pole to support a mast before raising it or do you lift it right off the stern railing?thanks, Al  

upper part of baby stays As for how to mount a top part of stays on a mast...do you think, blind rivetted regular pad eyes would be strong enough? wOr would I have to put a bolt thru the whole mast to mount the tangs (like up top)?Any info is appreciatedI was thinking, 3/16 stainless steel blind rivets and pad eyes...  

Thru-bolt I have my baby stays through-bolted to the mast. Rivets are ok for some applications but there may be a fair bit of lateral force with the mast trying to swing to the side while raising. I would not want to see the resultant damage/injuries if the rivets failed and the mast swung loose. By the way, I lift my mast off of the crutch with no effort. Also, I use a simple block and tackle shackled from the gin pole to the forestay. I suppose I could run the line to one of the winches but don't really see the need. If I need to stop anywhere in the process, I simply secure the line to one of my bow cleats. The only thing I would do differently is use a longer line for the block and tackle. I only have a foot or two free when the mast is down. It would be nice to have a bit more to grab onto at the start.  

More bs I agree with J. Barrett that thru bolting is the way to go. The winch I refered to is the one on the gin pole. This makes it easy for me to crank up the mast and still have a free hand to guide the furler. The cables are 1/8.  

how high can you reach? In my opinion, the higher you attach the baby stays to the mast the better the side to side stability while transitioning. The question is; once raised can you still reach to disconnect them or do you plan to leave them up while sailing?I think about 6'-7' is about the best you can do.  

gin pole About a gin pole now...how long and how thick is yours?What is it made of?Do you mount it on a trailer.What's the minimum height for a gin pole?It seems like most of the load it carries is a compression load, not much bending...right?you think, a 2 inch PVC pipe would do? :O) or does it have to be stronger than that?  

gin pole Al, my gin pole is inch and a half aluminum tube, I guess about four feet in length. I bought the kit from MacGregor. It came with the pole, stays, hardware, and block + tackle. The pole attaches to the mast step. If I could change anything, I would go with a longer pole so that the block pulls in a straight shot to the forward chainplate. With mine being short it doesn't allow you to really pull down as hard as you could to make pinning the forestay easier. My kit is actually for a 26 but works well enough for me. Also, I leave my baby stays attached. In thinking about it, a snap shackle on the upper end would allow for them to be removed easy enough..... for now they stay on. Do you have a hinged mast step? I found that changing to one helped alot with the overall stability of the raising. I didn't have the kit before the new step so I can't say how well it would work without it. -John  

baby stay mount in mounting baby stay to boat, think of a hinge with the mast at the center of the pin and the stay mounts at the ends of the pin so that that relationshil remains during raising/lowering the mast....which is to say that you might have to mount the stays on elevated blocks to keep piv points in line with mast base pin.  

NO PVC no to using pvc pipe.  

Nevada City Bob

Pix? Bruce, I've often thought that your suggestion of mounting the BSs at the same deck elevation as the mast step was the only way of keeping the lines tight all the war through the evolution, but I haven't heard anybody else bring that point up. Do you (or anybody else out there) have pictures of such an installation?  

Toe buster Something else to trip over. A little slack in the bs's is not a bad thing. Think of them as training wheels on a kid's bike. They don't have to make contact, but are there if you need them.  

more ? on baby stays I have mounted the lower atttachment points for the baby stays on the deck. (By the way, thanks for the "HINGE TIP"...Since i will be leaving the BSs on while sailing, I was thinking of attaching them to the mast by using the same tangs as the lower shrouds...Do you think, it's a bad idea??? I really don't want to drill another hole in a mast...What do you think?...to drill or not to drill :O)  

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How to Tune a Sailboat Mast

Here are some general guidelines for tuning your mast’s standing rigging . please see our blog on  how to properly adjust a turnbuckle  before you begin. as always we recommend seeking the advice of a professional rigger for more specific tips and tricks regarding tuning your boat’s rigging..

Your boat must be in the water. Begin by just slacking off all of the side shrouds as evenly as possible, so that all stays can be adjusted by hand. Once loose, try and adjust all turnbuckles so that they are pretty much equally open (or closed) from port to starboard respectfully. Also go ahead and line up the cotter pin holes (if present) in the studs so that they are in a pin-able position. Now is also the time to balance out the threads, between the upper and lower studs of the turnbuckle, IF they are not even. Do this by unpinning the turnbuckle from the chainplate – BE CAREFUL HERE –  to ensure the mast is secure before unpinning any one stay. Lastly, loosen all halyards or anything that may pull the mast to port, starboard, forward or aft.

1.  Check by sighting up the backside of the mast to see how straight your spar is side to side. You can take a masthead halyard from side to side to ensure that the masthead is on center. Do this by placing a wrap of tape 3′ up from the upper chainplate pin hole on each upper shroud. Cleat the halyard and pull it to the tape mark on one side, mark the halyard where it intersects the tape on the shroud. Now do this to the other side, the mark on the halyard should also intersect the tape similarly. Please note: when the mast is equipped with port and starboard sheaves, instead of just one center-line sheave, it will appear slightly off to one side. Just keep this in mind……

2.  Using the upper shrouds as controls, center the masthead as much as possible using hand tension only. Some masts are just crooked. If yours is(are) crooked, it will reveal itself when you loosen all of the stays and halyards initially and sight up the mast. Although you should use hand tension only, you can use a wrench to hold the standing portion (the stay portion) of the turnbuckle. If for some reason the shroud is totally slack and you still can’t turn the turnbuckle by hand then the turnbuckle may need to be serviced, inspected, and maybe replaced.

3.  Tune the mast from the top shroud on-down, making sure the mast is in column.  Remember:   as you tension one shroud by adjusting the turnbuckle, to loosen the opposing shroud the same amount.

4.  Once the mast is fairly straight from side to side, tighten the shrouds all evenly using tools for tensioning. Typically, for proper tension, the shrouds should be tightened using these guidelines; uppers are the tightest, and then fwd. lowers, then the aft lowers and intermediates should be hand tight plus just a turn or two. ~ With an in-mast furler it is recommended to tension the aft lower a bit more to promote a straighter spar (fore and aft) for better furling. 

5.  Now you can tension the aft most backstay (s). If the backstay has an adjuster it should be set at a base setting (500-1000 lbs). If the backstay simply has a turnbuckle then it should be tightened well. After this has been done, in either situation (adjustable or static backstay), one should site up the mast from a-beam and notice that the masthead has a ‘slight’ aft bias. If there is no aft bias, too much, or the mast is inverted (leaning forward), then the forward most forestay (s) will most likely need to be adjusted to correct this. If a furler is present then seek the council of a professional rigger or refer to your furler’s manual for instructions on how to access the turnbuckle if there is one present.

6.   Finally, sight up the mast one last time and make any necessary adjustments.  

7.  MAKE SURE ALL TURNBUCKLES AND PINS HAVE  COTTER PINS AND ARE TAPED NEATLY  TO PREVENT CHAFE!

Read HERE for how to use a LOOS & Co. Tension Gauge!

Here is a little vid from our friend Scott at  Selden Masts  (click the link then hints and advice for more info) on rig tune…..

[youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rcCALZ4x6R4&w=420&h=315]

Is your mast fractionally rigged, only has a single set of lowers or is just plain different? Be sure to leave any  questions or comments below.

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54 Comments

I have a 1965 Alberg 30. On a starboard tack the boat has more weather helm than on a port tack. I have not been able to achieve a balanced helm on either tack. New full batten main, new 150 roller furl genoa.

Other than the boat being evenly ballasted from port to starboard, e.g. holding tanks, fuel tanks, below deck furnishings, and storage items, I would check the rig from side to side. A crooked mast or poor static tune can result in the boat sailing differently on both tacks. A good way to test this is either sighting up the mast at the dock to ensure that the mast is relatively straight side to side and in column. You can also see that when beating (aka hard on the wind), you have to make adjustment’s to the mainsail sheet tension (NOTE: the traveler will likely need to be adjusted to mirror the same setting as on the previous tack). If notice that with the traveler in the same position on each respective tack that the sail is bubbling or flogging more on one tack than on the other, it is likely necessary to re-tune the mast. This can be done at the dock by following the guidelines in the article once the everything has been appropriately loosened to tension.

Let us know if this helps.

Any Hints, tips for tuning a 1977 Whitby 27 sloop 1/4 ton rig?

Nothing special that I can think of. Just follow the guidelines in the article. From what I can gather there are only a single set of lowers correct? Are the spreaders aft swept at all or just straight out? If it is single lowers and no sweep to the spreaders you’ll need to set the rake using the forestay adjustment to set the rake and the backstay to control the forestay tension. If you are interested in optimizing sail tuning, like in racing situations: higher wind sailing conditions will desire more tension on the shrouds, a bit more tension on the lower than the upper, but only slightly; and in lighter winds loosen them up a bit, a tad looser on the lower than the upper.

Hope that helps, and good luck.

How do I tune /2 in rigging. Neither of the loos gaug s are large enough?

Thanks for the question. Yes, I think the Loos gauges only go up to 3/8″ wire. First let me say that a tension gauge is not a must for proper tuning, more for tension recording and also not exceeding max tension which is typically hard to achieve without additional fulcrums or wrench extensions. Having said that, if you know that you need one simply search google for cable tensioning gauges. There are a few others like this one https://www.checkline.com/product/136-3E , pricing is not easily apparent and may be excessive for your needs.

My recommendation is that if you have a good local rigger have them do a static dock-side tune and perhaps sail-tune in the boat’s ideal conditions. Perhaps they can provide a tutorial on their process for you to be able to make rigging adjustments over time.

Hope that helps.

Hi. Nice article. I have a Mirage 27 (the Bob Perry design). It’s a masthead rig with single spreaders and the shrouds on each side come to the same chainplate. I have been tuning so that tension on the lower and uppers is the same and trying to set them so that (as you say) the leeward shrouds are just slightly slack. But how do I induce mast rake? I have a split backstay with a 6:1 purchase on the adjuster; should the mast have rake even with the adjuster off? or do I just haul on it? or should the tension on the inners and outers be different?

HI Michael,

You will need to lengthen the headstay and shorten the backstay. This can be done a few ways either with turnbuckle adjustment or actually shortening and lengthening cables, sometimes you can add or remove toggles also.

Hope that helps!

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I recently purchased a 1988 Catalina S&S 38 and experienced my first launch this season, including stepping the mast and tuning the rig. As we prepared, we found that the Cap Shroud and Intermediate Shroud were clamped together at the four spreader ends. The folks at the yard had never seen that, and I certainly didn’t know why it was there … possibly to keep the spreader ends and shrouds consistent? Anyway, as I am learning how to tune my rig, it seems to me that these clamps would prevent me from tuning the cap shroud and intermediate separately and correctly Thoughts? Should I remove them and re-tune the rig?

So it is a double spreader rig I take it? The upper shroud wire should run freely through the first spreader, or the closest one to the deck, and be clamped at the top spreader. The intermediate shroud wire should be clamped at the lower spreader.

Before stepping, if this was done correctly, both upper spreader and lower spreader should be clamped equal distance from the mast attachment point, when looking at the mast from port and starboard.

In other words, you should measure the distance from where the upper shroud attaches to the mast to the end of the upper spreader and it should be the same distance on the other side, port to starboard. Then the same goes for the intermediate shroud and the lower spreader. The upper shroud should run freely through the lower spreader although it is covered by the clamp, but not actually clamped at the lower spreader, j ust the top one.

If all 4 spreaders are clamped equally port to starboard. You should be good to tune from there. The spreaders should show a slight up angle, to be specific slightly more up at the upper spreader than at the lower, but all of them should be just ever so slightly pointing up. You even want to think about clamping them slightly higher than that before tensioning, as this will pull them down and into their preferred angle, just slightly up. Specific angles are really only determined on the spar builders drawing and vary for manufacturer to manufacturer. Generally it is pretty clear where they want to sit. With the shrouds loose if you find that angle that appears to be the right one, and push them up slightly from there then clamp. This will allow them to be pulled down slightly once tensioned.

Kind of a tricky thing to explain in writing but hopefully it helps.

Have further questions? Give us a call 443-847-1004, or email us [email protected]

I have a Catalina 275 fractional rig with single swept back spreaders and an adjustable backstay. My questions are: how much rake, tension on cap and lower shrouds and on chain plate should cap shroud be forward and lower aft. I am racing and want the best performance. Thanks for any help. Bill

If the two shrouds are on the same plate, right next to each other, and the pin holes are the same diameter, and the plate is configured in a fore and aft configuration, I would choose the aft hole for the lower shroud and the forward one for the upper shroud.

In terms of specific rake, you will need to look towards the maker of your sails and or the boat manufacturer. I discuss how to measure rake in the preceding comments.

“You can measure rake by hanging a small mushroom anchor from the main halyard, with the boat floating on its lines, if you wish”

For racing I would start off with a good static tune at the dock by following the points in the article. If you know it’s going to be light day, start off with light rig tension. Be sure to use either Velcro wrap style cotter pins or simply lash the upper and lower shroud turnbuckles together to secure them. This will give you access to removing the pins or lashing while sailing and adjusting the stays.

From there you will need to sail tune for that days specific conditions, your shrouds will tell you what needs to be tighter and looser. I have answered how to do this a few times already in the comments below, please take your time to peruse the comments section to see what sail tuning entails. Doing this will always ensure that the cable tensions are set up ideally for the conditions and the boat can be sailed at maximum potential.

“For racing, ideally once the static tune at the dock (the part we just talked about) is done, go out and sail tune. Do this by going hard on the wind and checking to see if the leeward shrouds are just starting to dance, this is ideal. If they are swaying about they are too loose for the current conditions. If the leeward shrouds are tight, they may be a touch to tight. Tension and loosen as needed; count what you did and to what shroud, then tack and do the same to the other side.

ALWAYS secure the turnbuckles when you are finished adjusting them.”

Just hit ‘Ctrl F’ and search the page for “sail tune” and “rake”

I am trying to tune a Hallberg Rassy HR36 masthead rig. The rig has two in-line spreaders. The cap shroud is 3/8 inch and terminates at the lower spreader. From the lower spreader, the cable transitions to a 5/16 inch cable passing over the upper spreader to the masthead. A second 9/32 inch cable runs from the lower spreader to the mast (just below the upper spreader). The Selden rigging suggests that the “upper shroud” be at 15 percent of the breaking strength of the cable. In this situation, is it 15 percent of the 3/8 inch lower portion? If so, how should the upper 5/16 inch and 9/32 inch cables be tensioned?

Thanks for your help.

Hi Bryant, good question. Once proper alignment and centering of the spar has happened (static tune), and you are perhaps a hair tighter than hand tight on all shrouds, you can begin to tension things to a percentage of breaking strength. Do this by using the cables at the deck and use their diameters to determine the tensioning amount.

The V1 (aka cap shroud) in your case is a 3/8″ cable which supports the two cables above ii, hence its large diameter. The 5/16 V2,D3 and the 9/32 D2 total 19/32. So if 15% of the 3/8 cable is achieved you will below that threshold for the cables aloft. Does that make any sense?

With that in mind there is a range of acceptable tension from light air to heavy air. 15% sounds like a good middle of the road tension. Generally you do not want to exceed 30%. Sail tuning in ideal conditions is generally the best way to determine the right tension, but 15% of breaking strength sounds like a good place to start.

Don’t forget your cotter pins and tape, especially aloft.

Hope that helps and thanks for the question.

T.R.C. Thanks you for the clarification regarding the V2,D3 and D2 load distribution. When I set the V1 tension to 15%, the tension on the V2,D3 was at 8 %. I then tensioned the forward shroud to 12 % and the aft shroud to 10 %. Then I tensioned the backstay to 14 %. After doing this, I measured the tension on the V1 to be 10 %. The only information I could find regarding tension on the D2 was that is did not have to be tensioned much. I tensioned it to 5%. The mast sights straight and I used a bossen seat on a halyard to measure to the lower part of the V1, which also indicated that the mast was straight. Did I overtension the fore and aft stays? Is the tension in the D2 too much or too little? Again, I appreciate your advice.

When you tighten the backstay it usually induces a bit of aft bend in the mast which will soften the upper shroud (V1) a bit. You can just take up on it again to get it back to 15% if you like. As I said there is a acceptable range for all of the stays, which you are well within. Everything else sounds like you did a pretty good job. Next up sail tune and see if there is excessive waggling on the leeward side, but in moderate breeze. The shrouds will begin to sway as the breeze builds, this could be a telltale to either reduce sail a bit or you can add some tension to the shrouds all the way around.

Should be all good as they say.

Cheers, ~T.R.C.

T.R.C., your advice has been invaluable. I took her out in 12-15 knots and was very happy with the sail luff and stiffness of the rig. Thanks for you help!😁⚓️

Hi , can you provide any tuning guides for a Swan 38 Tall mast single spreader rig with baby stay, I am keen to set the rig up for new North sails and race her competitively. The mast is an exact Nautor factory replacement in 1998. She shall not have furling sails.

Hi Peter and thanks for the comment.

Unfortunately we do not have a guide for that boat. I would ask the sailmaker however to see what info he or she might have. Alternatively you can always start with a good static tune and then sail tune the boat as I describe in some of the comments below. This is the best way. I may use a Swan 45 Tuning guide as the template and then just fill in my own numbers over time. This is ideal, but infidelity start with asking the sailmaker you are working with, he should have some good info.

This may seem like a silly question, but it has me perplexed. How long should my cotter pins be? Long enough to ‘jam’ against the surrounding body, to prevent rotation? Otherwise, I don’t see how they’ll prevent my stays from loosening.

The length should be the minimum amount to just be able to bend the legs. Too long and they get caught up on things, too short and you can’t adequately bend the legs to keep the pin in place. The head of the pin is a actually providing the security.

Does that help?

Great article to get me started, thanks! I just have a few questions…

I originally owned a Tanzer 7.5. Her mast was rigid and simple to tune with a LOOS and an eyeball. I however now own a Mirage 33 (1982) and things are a bit more complex (but not too much). When I bought her the mast was already stepped and the owners said they replaced the forestay (inside the furler) 1 season ago. I went about the boat tuning the rig as best I could but I started second guessing the rake. I found noticeable rake in the mast with virtually no backstay tension on. So I think my forestay stretched (being “new”) and I need to bring it forward.

How do I measure how much rake (at rest on the tensioner) is enough? With my rig as is I felt worried that if I pulled down on the backstay tensioner I might buckle my mast by bending it too far. It seems to me it’s ALOT of downward pressure on the column when you pull down on her especially if the mast was already raked or maybe in my case leaned too far back to start? She has a babystay too, I wasn’t sure how far to tension that other than to assist adding bend\rake but since I had too much already I just lightly tightened it and hoped for the best!

Thanks for the question. With the backstay tensioner completely off, you should be able to adjust the static/ base tension of the backstay with a turnbuckle (s). Loosen the Baby Stay so that it is completely loose, sloppy, to take it out of the equation. Then mark furling line spool direction and remove the line. Next, open the furler up to gain access to the turnbuckle inside, if present. Remove all cotter pins or locking nuts to free the turnbuckles on the headstay and the backstay. You should then loosen things so that the headstay and the backstay can be adjusted by hand. Close the headstay turnbuckle and open the backstay turnbuckle to reduce rake, and vice versa if wanting to add rake.

You can measure rake by hanging a small mushroom anchor from the main halyard, with the boat floating on its lines, if you wish. Then once you achieve the desired mast rake go ahead and tension the forestay and backstay a few turns equally with tools; not too tight, but a good base light air setting, or as loose as you can imagine the headstay ever needing to be. Lastly, tension the baby stay a bit until it just starts to tug on the mast, helping induce bend. From here the backstay tensioner will do the rest: wind it on and it will tension the headstay and induce mast bend via the baby stay. You may have to take the boat sailing and adjust things as you find out how it performs at various degrees of rake and bend.

I hope that’s not too wordy, but helps explain it all a bit. Feel free to email or call with further questions.

Regards, ~T.R.C.

Can you provide some specific information regarding rig for 1980 C&C 32. Looking to purchase new main and want to get the most from it for Wednesday nights. Boat currently does not have a pony stay, it has been removed. Can replace that track/car. What should initial bend look like, keel step is fixed so assume I need to some chock aft of mast at deck? Have rod rigging but no Loos gauge for same, should I acquire one? Love this site, very helpful RayK

Thanks for the compliment. This may be less technical than you might expect. I would start with the basic guidelines given in the article to ensure a good base, static tune setting. A Loos gauge is good but not needed. If you focus on getting the spar straight, side to side, with a slight aft bias and then the tension is set so that it feels fairly tight. I know that sounds vague, but keep this in mind: if you are anticipating heavier wind make things a bit tighter, and loosen things up if less windy. The order of tension, in regards to the which shroud (upper vs intermediate vs lower) is important; more so than the amount of tension. Make sure nothing is so loose it is just flapping about.

The headstay should have some good slack to it with the backstay adjuster totally off. Adjust the backstay and headstay turnbuckles, with them in the slack position until the masthead is favoring a slight aft lean or rake, but only slight. From there, tension the backstay adjuster very tight and see what the headstay tension feels like, should be very tight.

PLEASE NOTE: if the backstay adjustment is totally bottomed out at this point, the backstay needs to be shortened a bit. Just pay attention to how this affects the rake. …

This part is where the pony stay or the baby stay will play a critical part, for mast bend. You may even find the pony stay to be good for mast pumping in light air and waves. Making this baby stay removable is a good idea, as well as, we’ve found that Dynema rope is the best choice here.

So… a centered mast head, side to side. A straight, in column mast from the top on down. A slight aft rake to start with…and as you begin to wind on the backstay and the baby stay you will add some rake but also a good bit more bend.

Take this set up for a few test sails and see how things act, in different conditions. After that you can make some adjustments here and there as needed: weather helm, shroud tension, mast rake, pre bend, etc…Moving chocks and using a Loos gauge.

ADDT’L TIP: Chocks and mast step position affect bend and rake properties. Want more rake? Chock mast aft in collar and move step forward. Want more bend? Chock mast forward in collar and move mast aft. As all things, there is more to it than that, but that’s the gist of the whole chocks and mast step thing…

“Sail Tuning” is a blog we are in the works of, but the punchline is that if hard on the breeze, and the leeward shrouds are excessively loose, and you are sure you aren’t over canvased…then go ahead and take turns on the leeward side until they just stop waggling, count what you’ve done, tack and mirror the turns on the other side.

Once the boat is set up for that specific condition, and you return to the dock, you should take your loose gauge and record these settings…creating a tension gauge setting for various conditions.

Hi, Thanks for your information. I have a Dehler 34. 1986… How much mast prebend and rake is recommended? The boat is new to me in March. Raced ok but I want to get a new main and want it to fit a well tuned mast. What do you think of a 2 degree rake and 4″ prebend at the speaders? Also, I have a Harken furler, How do you measure the forestay tension? Thanks, Duke

The answer, this boat is pretty sporty so it should show some rake. The spreaders are swept slightly aft so this will produce some natural bend just to tension the headstay.

Head-stays are always tough to measure with any sort of gauge, there are some class specific tricks for using a gauge in funky ways in order to get data, but they aren’t really reliable in my opinion. If you live in a typically windy area, go for bit more shroud tension, headstay tension and mast bend, and see how the boat feels. This will take some trial and error. If the forestay feels too stiff, slot too tight, loosen the uppers a bit, thus reducing bend and slackening the headstay.

Once the boat is sailing well in the ideal conditions, record that bend and those tensions. This is where I would leave things set, record it, and then just adjust shroud tension to affect bend and headstay in order to compliment different wind strengths and sea states. It takes quite a bit of back and forth, and documentation to get it right. One designers have already worked all of this out and then they share it for others…..very helpful. The rest of us will have to be the trailblazers for this type of information for other boat owners with the same (similar) boats to benefit.

Hope that helps, thanks for the kind words, and good luck. Once you figure things out post a link here for others with the same boat…..would be helpful.

Hello, Thanks for all of this great info. I just purchased a 37′ boat with a 3/4 fractional rig and a tapered mast. I was wondering if there were any special considerations when tuning the fractional rig? Currently the stays and shrouds are a little loose and can be wiggled (borderline flopping) by hand although the mast stands and is visually centered. (We are in SW Florida and the boat went through a direct hit by hurricane Irma like this and still stands tall!) Also is it advisable to increase shroud tension in small increments first on one side and then do the same on the opposing side? Thanks so much for any info

Hi Nathan. There are some thoughts, so fractional masts are usually fitted with aft swept shrouds and spreaders. If so, this means that the uppers also tension the headstay and create mast bend. The lowers then also act to reduce mast bend, so the tighter you make them you are actually reducing mast curve, thus powering the mainsail up. So be conscious of these two thoughts when tensioning the shrouds. The rest is fundamentally the same as the guide suggests. Loose or wiggling shrouds (excluding the scenario where we are talking about the leeward shrouds under sail), should be tightened. Doing things in increments is definitely a good idea.

Hope that helps. Thanks for the questions.

Thanks!! Now that you say that about the swept spreaders helping create mast bend it makes perfect sense. I had an ‘oh duh’ moment. I’ll probably err on the side of looser lower shrouds knowing if we need more power we can always tighten them up. Thank you again this helped immensely!

I want to buy a tension gage. Most familiar with Loos. But do I need Pt 1 or 2? (Pretty sure I don’t need 3 or Pro.) I have two rigs to tune: a 1972 Morgan 27 and a Catalina 22, I think 73 or thereabouts. The Morgan 27 is mine, fresh water for life, and 99.9% most likely factory wire. The Catalina 22 is a borrower in the Gulf, but pretty sure the owner has never tuned it. My problem is I can’t find the gage of wire for either standing rigging anywhere! Any help?

I think this one will do… https://sep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-70220623433298_2270_120385950 . The Morgan is likely 3/16″ wire and the Catalina is likely 5/32″, that’s an educated guess. Hope that helps.

I just purchased a 1980 C&C 40. I was told that I need to replace the rod rigging as it is “too old”. The mast is down and the rod rigging seems ok but I have not done any penetration testing. Does rod rigging need to be replaced due to age? Thanks Rigging Co.

Not replaced, but re-headed. This can mean that some stays need to be replaced as a whole, but not typically not the whole set. There are instances where you’ve almost replaced all of it anyways, so full replacement just makes sense. Other than those scenarios, full replacement is due after a certain mileage with rod…60,000 NM. Please keep in mind these standards are very general recommendations. It sounds like in your case, you should send in the rod, tangs, and chainplates for service and inspection. once we receive everything we will make a quote for the recommended services and/or replacement.

Hope that helps and give us an email for more info.

I have had a problem with securing the spreaders to the shrouds, resulting in the spreaders dropping. I am using stainless wire to seize them but still having a problem. Any tips on how to do this properly?

Seizing the wire onto spreaders with hinged spreaders is a bit of a trick of the trade that requires some practice. We use the X’s and O’s method. The end result should be something that looks like this… https://theriggingcompany.files.wordpress.com/2011/11/2012-06-07_14-26-09_899.jpg?w=900 . A trick to make the wire bite into the spreader end a bit more is to wedge a small piece of leather between the spreader and the wire before seizing. Also parceling and serving the wire where it intersects the spreader will help create more bite too. Lastly, and I don’t like this method but you can install a bull dog cable clamp beneath the spreader, nuts facing in, to keep it from dropping when slack.

I hope that helps a little. Thanks for commenting.

I am struggling to get enough rake into my mast. 33 foot Charger 33 keel stepped. Have loosened forestay and moved mast foot forward by about 10 mm. Should the chocks in the collar be adjusted? Runners and 2 spreaders, and check spreader. Spreaders do not have much aft angle. Move mast step more forward? Outers are tight with inners looser. Thoughts?

Hey Bernard,

Yeah, it sounds like chocks are the last thing. Maybe remove the chocks with the rigging slack and see if you can get the mast to sit where you like it with just hand tension. Then chock it where it wants to sit. It sounds like you are on the right track everywhere else, perhaps add a toggle into the headstay and shorten the backstay is next. Good luck and I hope that helps somewhat.

Hi, We have a Lagoon Catamaran with fractional rig, upper and lower shrouds, fore stay and upper and lower diamonds. No back stay. The mast has a degree of pre-bend. I do not plan to drop the mast.

I may have to do some work on the port side upper diamond. Is it as easy as just undoing the turnbuckle? Or do I need to loosen the starboard one at the same time. If it needs replacement should I also replace the starboard one even if in good condition?

As a further question, what happens if a diamond breaks, does it result in mast failure?

You would need to loosen the other counterpart to that stay for sure. It is just good practice, will keep the mast straight, and also make your life easier for removal install. Now, do you replace both? I don’t know. How old is the standing rigging? Why are you replacing the one? If it is not all due for replacement and you are just replacing due to damage, just do the one, but loosen both sides to do this.

Hope that helps and thanks for the visit.

Hello! I recently purchased a keel-stepped 1982 Goman Express 30 which came with an Alado Furler. I have been sailing it since May of this year. My question is this: Despite relocating mast wedges at the cabin roof to bias the lower mast aft about 2″, I still have a pronounced backward bend (10 degrees or so) just above the highest spreader. When sailing on jib alone, most wave action causes the mast to pump right at the bend point. I have a split backstay that is as un-tensioned as possible and the forestay only has another inch of adjustment left. There is no baby stay.

How can I get the bend out of the mast? How concerned should I be that the mast might break at that point?

Thanks in advance for your reply!

Eric Hassam – Delta Flyer

Thanks for taking the time to comment on our site. It sounds like you are on the right track. So one other adjustment that you have is the mast step position. This greatly affects mast bend on keel stepped masts. For a stronger bend and less rake, move the mast butt aft. For more rake and less bend (probably what you need to try), move the mast step forward a bit. If neither of these help, you may be off to have your headstay shortened and this means it is too long. This is likely not the case, but it is a possibility.

Keep in mind….A mast should have a slight aft rake bias along with a small amount of mast bend. This is quite normal. You can send us a picture if you’d like a second opinion on if it is over-bent. Having said all of that, even if you remove all of the mast bend, the mast may still pump. This is a design flaw in many spar designs that lots of end users have experienced. This can be remedied by redesigning the stay lay out. Is there a place for a staysail stay and/ or runner backstays? If so add them. Is there a place for a baby stay? If not, that may be a consideration.

Thanks again and I hope that helps.

Hi, I have a 48 foot yawl with a 7/8 fractional rig, is the tuning procedure the same as a masthead rig? I seem to have trouble getting aft rake and proper headstay tension. Also, is there a particular tension number the upper shrouds should have? many thanks in advance

Hi Bill, thanks for taking the time. 7/8 is very close and I would treat it like a masthead rig, especially if the none of the spreaders are aft swept. Tesnsion the headstay using the backstay(s). This should pull the top of the mast aft. If there are any other forward stays, i.e. stay sail stay, forward lowers, or anything else that could be holding the mast forward, go ahead and loosen those completely. You then may need to tighten the Tri-attic (the stay that connects the top of the mizzen and top of the main) if present. OR if the mizzen needs more rake too, then lossen all forward stays and pull it back using the available aft stays for this as well.

Hope this helps and please email us and send some pictures if you need more help.

I have a 1972 Morgan 27, which has both forward and after lower shrouds. I wish to remove the forward lowers so I can trim a 110% jib inside the stays. I see a lot of boats without forward lowers and think this will work OK, but wonder if I should increase the size of the aft lowers and beef up the chain plates. Any suggestions?

THANKS FOR YOUR INPUT. I AM GOING TO REMOVE THEM ANYWAY AND SEE WHAT HAPPENS. “HOLD MY BEER, WATCH THIS….” FAMOUS LAST WORDS.

Lol! Good luck. Call us if you need assistance.

I have rod rigging on my Beneteau 32s5

Any other guidance on tuning them vs wire rigging

Hi and thanks for commenting.

Just follow the guidelines in the write up. The over all goal is that the mast needs to be straight and in-column when looking at it from side to side.

Fore and aft, the mast should show a very slight lean aft. Depending on whether or not the spreaders are in-line or aft swept; you should also see some slight bend if there is any aft sweep to the spreaders just from the tension of the uppers.

A Rod stay tends to run a bit tighter than wire, so keep that in mind.

For racing, ideally once the static tune at the dock (the part we just talked about) is done, go out and sail tune. Do this by going hard on the wind and checking to see if the leeward shrouds are just starting to dance, this is ideal. If they are swaying about they are too loose for the current conditions. If the leeward shrouds are tight, they may be a touch to tight. Tension and loosen as needed; count what you did and to what shroud, then tack and do the same to the other side.

ALWAYS secure the turnbuckles when you are finished adjusting them.

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Wow, I would hate to be charged by her for three trips up the rig and forget the screw driver the rubber plugs that are sacraficial and replaced everytime removed just to clean the stainless 1×19 rigging.

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Symphonie Baby Stay

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Just purchased Jeanneau Symphonie. Previous owner - quite experienced racer did not remove baby stay for dip pole jibing as he had it under considerable tension and was nervous of removing it temporarily for the jibe. Used end to end jibe. However, the stay is equipped with a quick release mechanism (manufacturer) and I would like some advice here as dip pole jibing is easier?  

I have same question in jibing the whisker pole/Genoa on my B361. Dealer thought baby stay can be detached for down wind leg without any problem. I e-mailed factory (Mike Watson - Beneteau) asking if detachment was feasible--that was a week ago,still no answer. What quick detachable device do you have on your boat ? Please pass any more information you receive.  

It was not all that uncommon in the 1970''s to have a highfield lever and quick release pin for removing the baby stay for dip pole jibing. Alternatively the babystay would be made up on a block and tackle and would be eased back to the mast during a dip pole jibe. That said, it was not all that unusual to do an end for end jibe, even on a pretty big boat that had a babystay. Jeff  

Jeff Thanks for the input. Only release mechanism I see in catalogs are ABI one for $350+ and a Johnson shroud lever for $46+. Johnson solution is good for 1500 lbs., but I have no idea what load my babv stay should handle. Still have not had a answer from Beneteau !!! billhereus what is the release mechanism on your boat ?  

I don''t have a babystay. Boats with babystays are deal killers for me. As a single-hander babystays are such a pain in the butt and represent a real hazzard that a boat that needed a babystay would be scratched from my list. I have spent a fair amount of time on boats with babystays though and the solutions range right across the board. Iam surprised that you have not heard back from Beneteau. I have always gotten very quick responses from Marion S.C. Jeff  

Jeff_H said: I don''t have a babystay. Boats with babystays are deal killers for me. As a single-hander babystays are such a pain in the butt and represent a real hazzard that a boat that needed a babystay would be scratched from my list. ........... Jeff Click to expand...

Our babystay is 10mm dyneema with a swivel Gibb hook to the deck. Therefore it can be removed instantly, and it needs to be available because it doubles as our spinn pole uphaul/topping lift. We always remove the staysail before the spinn hoist, so this works. Infact when racing (i.e. when we will want a spinn hoist v quickly) we rarely use the staysail preferring the 135% Genoa or the blade jib as the upwind sail choice for speed. When cruising ... well the priorities are different.  

Previous owner fitted an extension to the quick release handle to make removing the stay easier. However, it is under considerable tension and, having spent some time getting the mast shape OK and reasonable tension on the shrouds, there is no way I can reduce that tension on the baby stay. Removing it for the jibe is not really practical, I reckon. End to end jibing is a bit of a faff though ....  

Dear Own- In his post, Jeff mentions that he likes to singlehand, and that having a babystay makes gybing the pole a P.I.T.A. and dangerous. With a babystay rigged, you have to do an end-for-end gybe. Singlehanded, this means lots of loose ends flapping around and things that can go wrong while the boat wallows through the maneuver with no one at the helm. The babystay also makes it necessary to handle the loose pole further out on the foredeck - adding to the danger. Using lazy sheets and guys without a babystay enables you to perform a dip pole gybe, which gives you much more control over the situation. It's also a lot quicker (and safer) to switch the guy in the jaws on a dip-pole gybe than it is to be fishing around with a pole swinging from just the topping lift. If you're only going to rig your babystay in heavy weather, possibly to hoist a staysail or storm jib instead of your genoa, then you're not likely to be flying a spinnaker at that point, and the issue won't affect you. When the chute's up, the crew can put the babystay away. If you've got a boat that needs the babystay to keep the rig in the boat, or to bend the mast for tuning, then it's a different story. I've been on boats that stowed them when not needed, and even then they can be a hassle: clunking around and getting in the way of smooth leads and such. Getting a mast that's strong enough without is is a much simpler solution. K.I.S.S.  

KISS the baby(stay) goodbye? Thanks, Paul, for the very clear reply. I had not considered the effect of a baby stay on spinnaker handling. My initial thoughts were that perhaps a baby-stay (as opposed to a more forward, cutter-like, inner forestay) that was JUST big enough to fly the #4 could be attached at the hounds (thereby avoiding running backs) and far enough aft on the foredeck (forward edge of cabintop) to not be too interfering when tacking the genoa. The thought was that this would be rigged as a permanent stay, thereby avoiding the greater expense, rigging time, and clanking around when not in use (as you mentioned) of a removable stay. But maybe this is not such a hot idea after all.  

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Sailing With A Baby: Essential Guide 2024

Sailing with a baby is something we’ve spent the last 4 years considering. Is it safe? Will it be possible? What will we need? All the questions first time parents ask themselves only with an added layer of complications – a boat!

Well now we are going to well and truly put all these questions to the test, with our little one due in just a few months time.

Luckily we’re surrounded by the most incredible community of sailing parents who have shown us just how possible it is to go sailing with a baby, and we can’t wait to get out there as a family of three!

We’ve spent a lot of time researching, scouring the sailing forums , and asking many, many questions about boating with kids, so we wanted to share what we’ve found out for any other parents out there wondering whether they can live a sailing lifestyle with kids.

We’ve got the low down on safety tips, essential equipment and more to help you get set up to go sailing with your baby!

As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases. We also earn from other affiliate programs. This means we may receive a small commission on products purchased through our links at no extra cost to you.

Table of Contents

Can you bring a baby on a sailboat, keeping your baby safe while sailing, essentials for sailing with a baby, what’s the youngest a baby can be on a boat, will a baby get seasick, can a baby go in the sea, conclusion: sailing with a baby.

You can definitely sail with a baby, but there are some things you should be aware of and prepared for before you do.

Before we started living on a sailboat and meeting countless sailing families I would have said taking a baby on a sailboat was dangerous , but my opinion on this has changed dramatically. If you are well prepared then having a baby onboard can be easy(ish!) and extremely enjoyable.

We haven’t had a newborn on a boat (yet!) but we did have the best week with my niece and nephew who were 15 months and 3 years old at the time. It took a little thought and a few purchases to make sure they’d be safe and happy, but we spent the whole time at anchor and had a blast.

You only have to walk down a busy town quay or seek out sailing families online to find out that babies do not need to change your sailing plans.

Read on to find out more about sailing with a baby.

The first and most important consideration when sailing with kids and babies is obviously their safety.

I have met lots of sailing families who were nervous to bring their kids on board because they knew if something happened people would judge them, and you just have to read the comments on the sailing YouTube channels with kids to know this isn’t a one-off opinion.

Would people dish out the same judgment if your child was injured in a car accident or walking down the road? Absolutely not. But because sailing is unfamiliar to so many people they immediately think it’s more dangerous than the everyday activities they’re used to.

If you take a few sensible precautions, just as you would with a car seat or a bike helmet, then sailing with a baby doesn’t need to be dangerous at all.

Here are a few things we would advise you to do to keep your baby safe while sailing, though obviously each tip will depend a little on the age of the child, the boat, and where you’re sailing.

Lifejackets and Tethers

This is a no-brainer really. Make sure every baby or child on board has their own age-related, decent-quality life jacket , just as you would make sure every adult on board has a life jacket.

They will need to wear this at all times, and if they’re at walking age then you’ll want to get them a tether so they can’t wander off if you happen to take your eyes off them for a second!

We have used Helly Hansen gear for years and have a lot of trust in it, so we highly recommend you check out their range of life jackets for babies and kids . We’ll be opting for their baby life jacket once our little one arrives!

✔ Helly Hansen baby lifejackets

A Sling Or Baby Carrier

One of the best tips I’ve received from sailing parents is to invest in a decent sling or baby carrier. There will be plenty of times your little one is crying but you need two hands to helm, or work a line.

You can carry your baby with you while doing any essential tasks if you have a comfortable baby carrier!

This might not sound like a safety concern, but if you’re sailing short handed then you might really need those extra hands on deck. Knowing you can help with the sailing and not being torn between that and your distressed child is a big comfort!

We’ve been recommended the Ergobaby or the Baby Bjorn carriers.

Car Seat Or Similar

You’re going to want somewhere secure to put your baby while you’re underway, or when the motion in the ocean isn’t all that pleasant.

We’re planning to use a car seat attached somewhere secure in the boat. We won’t want to leave him in there for any long length of time, but it will be somewhere we know is secure if I’m needed on deck and don’t feel safe wearing him in a sling.

Baby First Aid Kit

For a start, you’ll want to make sure your first aid kit is properly stocked before you set off sailing with a baby! But there might also be some extras you want to add that are child specific.

This might not be quite so vital if you’re just sailing away from shore for a few hours, but it’s still important to have the basics just in case. Make sure all your medication is in date (we’re terrible for this!) and stashed well away from tiny hands.

This is a great guide by Pampers with some extras to consider like baby-safe pain and fever medicine and a specific baby first aid guide.

If you’re planning longer offshore passages then check in with your doctor before you go. They might recommend taking emergency supplies of antibiotics or other things you can’t purchase over the counter just in case of emergencies at sea.

Net For The Railing

If your baby is on the move then you’ll want to consider putting netting around the lifelines of your boat. This will help contain little ones and give an extra preventative measure in case they try to climb overboard.

We will definitely be doing this on our catamaran before our baby starts to move around. Obviously it isn’t foolproof, but any extra safety measure we can take we will!

Weather Protection

Exposure to all the different weather you experience when sailing can be a big cause of concern for adults, let alone children. This is so easily prevented by making sure everyone has the correct clothing.

Make sure you have sun protection for babies, including glasses, a hat, and SPF-rated clothing. You’ll also want suncream that’s suitable for infants.

Alongside this make sure you have cold-weather clothing and rain gear in case you experience a change in weather. A warm sleeping bag might also be a great thing to have on board in case the temperature dips!

Passage Planning

If you’re boating with a baby for the first time then you might want to put a bit more effort into passage planning. At least for the first few sails.

It’s probably a good idea to stick to familiar cruising grounds for a little bit until you’re comfortable with your new setup. We will make sure we’re always close to shore and a town for the first sails so that we won’t be as panicked if anything isn’t going to plan!

We have agreed we’ll be spending a bit of time ‘fair weather’ sailing. Obviously the forecast isn’t always reliable, so we’ll also make sure we have lots of bail-out anchorages along the way in case things get spicy and we aren’t feeling comfortable.

From then on, I’ll definitely be making a note of hospitals and doctor’s surgeries along our proposed route.

The other thing we’ve been told to watch out for is provisioning. Alongside all your usual food and drink you’re going to want to make sure you have enough supplies onboard for your baby. Things like nappies, creams, and formula milk or baby food if you aren’t breastfeeding must be in plentiful supply!

Alongside some safety equipment we’ve already mentioned (but will include in this list so you have all the information in one place!) there are some other essentials you’ll want to consider taking onboard before you head off on your first sail with a baby.

Some of these items will only be important if you’re actually living on the boat, or spending more than just a few hours on board.

#1 Lifejacket

As we discussed earlier, a decent life jacket for a baby or child is essential.

Attach a tether to your child life jacket if they’re on the go so that you can keep them safely contained in the cockpit at all times! You’ll want one designed for children like this one from West Marine , that isn’t stretchy.

A tether isn’t so important for newborns that aren’t on the go! As obviously they won’t be moving from where ever you put them!

✔ Shop tethers

#3 Baby First Aid Kit

As we discussed before a first aid kit stocked up with supplies for your baby is a safety essential. If you live onboard or are onboard for any length of time then you might want to also consider:

• Baby thermometer
• Saline Spray and a Snot Sucker
• Nail Clippers

This American Red Cross baby first aid kit has some great essential additions that you might want to consider.

#4 Somewhere Secure To Go When Sailing

It will depend on your baby and your boat, but as we listed earlier you’re going to want somewhere secure to put your baby down in case your full attention is needed on deck.

This needs to be safe if the boat is rolling around, so something like a car seat attached to seating might be ideal. They’re designed to keep your baby safe in a car crash after all!

You might prefer to have the baby on you in a baby carrier, but if it does get rolly then you might not feel that stable yourself. Have a back up plan just in case!

#5 A Baby Carrier

Again, a safety essential so you can have both hands free for things like docking or helming. We were recommended Ergobaby or Baby Bjorn so it’s worth checking out those brands.

We’ve also been warned against any cheap mimics of baby carriers. It might be tempting to save the money but they often aren’t thoroughly tested and so potentially not safe for your baby to spend any periods of time in.

#6 Compact Stroller

Adam and I spent a long time debating whether we would need a pram/pushchair, but we’ve been advised to get one by numerous friends who travel regularly. Apparently they are indispensable for things like airport travel, and really useful for shopping runs or pottering around towns.

If you’re doing a provision run and you have to carry the baby on your front or back then you’re unlikely to be able to carry much in the way of groceries. If you have a stroller you can load it up for the walk back, and also carry a backpack if you need a big shop.

Something like the much favourited gb Pockit+ All City can be used from 6 months up to about 4 years and folds up tiny (perfect for fitting in the dinghy!)

✔ Check out compact strollers here

#7 A Way To Feed Them

It seems obvious, but you’re going to need to feed your baby while you’re on the boat!

If you’re breastfeeding then this might not be too tricky, but if you’re using formula then you’ll want to consider things like whether you can get your preferred formula milk in the country you’re cruising and how you’re going to sterilise bottles.

These are usually easy problems to solve, but make sure you’ve looked into it before you head off and make sure you have adequate supplies on board and any essential equipment (and the power to run it!)

#8 Highchair

It was fine managing without a highchair for the week we had my niece and nephew onboard, but for longer amounts of time it would be really useful to have a dedicated place for a baby to sit and eat, where they were secure and you didn’t have to constantly watch them or even hold them.

If you’re living on board with a baby then a high chair is a must. But you probably won’t have the floor space for a regular high chair. Instead opt for one that can clip to the table or chair. We love this one that can also stand alone, so you take it to the beach or another boat.

✔ Portable high chair

The cleaning you have to do on a boat the better! Not only is it already such a tiny space to try and keep tidy and clutter free, but there is also usually a limited water supply on board.

Get a bib that’s easy to wipe, or even better, a smock bib that will cover their clothes completely. Hopefully it will save you some laundry runs which are always such a pain!

If you have a washing machine on your boat then lucky you! But still, you’ll want to keep loads to a minimum to save on water and electricty.

#10 Nappies and Wipes

The endless disposable vs reusable nappies debate. I’m going to have to update this post when I’ve tried and tested both myself, but from what I have heard here is the low down! You’ll probably have to make a decision based on your own personal preferences and the amenities you have available.

Reusable Nappies

There’s no question that reusable nappies are better for the environment, and for us folks that live on the sea that’s quite a big deal. We want the world to stay this beautiful for when our little ones grow up!

BUT reusable nappies take a whole lot of washing, and on a small boat with a limited water supply and no washing machine they might be completely impractical.

I’ve heard differing reports on how often you’ll need to wash the nappies, but one friend told me she did a wash load three times a day! This is obviously completely impractical, even if you have a washing machine on board.

I am super keen to try the reusable nappies and we’re lucky enough to have a full size washing machine onboard, along with a water maker and decent power and batteries. But I’m trying not to get ahead of myself. I imagine we will opt for a bit of a mix in the end.

Disposable Nappies

Although they aren’t great for the environment they are found almost everywhere in the world, and they don’t have a sell by date so you can stock up and carry as many as you’ll need.

The trouble I can see with disposable nappies is that you have to dispose of them, and we all know getting to shore and to a bin isn’t always that simple when you live on a boat.

If you opt for disposable nappies you’re going to want some sort of nappy bin that will help contain the mess and smell.

Alongside your choice of nappies, make sure you grab yourself a decent supply of wipes that work best for your baby.

They have quite a limited choice here in Greece, so I imagine if you had a firm favourite in the UK they might be hard to find out here. It’s worth stocking the boat up while you can!

#11 A Changing Mat

If you’re just sailing for a short amount of time then a small, travel changing mat will be perfect for onboard. It won’t take up too much space in your packing or on the boat, and you’ll be able to take it on trips to shore etc.

If you’re living on board then you’ll probably want to invest in two changing mats. A portable one you can take with you on adventures (just keep it in your changing bag) and a more permanent one for the boat that can be cleaned easily and live in one spot.

We’ve opted for a changing mat with little sides in the hopes that it’s a bit more contained once they start rolling, but I imagine we’ll also have to switch to changing him on the floor when he gets more active. A rolling boat and a rolling baby don’t add up!

✔ Our portable changing mat

✔ Our permanent changing mat

#12 A Changing Bag

This is a real essential for anyone that’s in and out the house (or boat!) all the time. Having a dedicated changing bag that you keep stocked up with the essentials will make getting ready to go ashore ten times easier (we all know how long it already takes to get the dinghy ready!)

I plan on having a ready to go changing bag somewhere near the door at all times, so I can just grab it and know it’s got all his essentials in there. It’s one less thing to think about when leaving the boat.

Luckily changing bags are pretty stylish these days! I love this cute rucksack style changing bag that I figured will be handy for getting in and out of the dinghy.

✔ Shop changing bags

#13 Muslins

These are so useful for just about everything, so you’ll want a good stash on board. Obviously for when baby is sick, but also for things like sun cover ups or light towels to dry them off when it’s hot.

My sister used them for everything and if you’re living on board I can see you’d want a big stash of them!

#14 Clothes

If you’re only day sailing then you probably have a pretty reliable forecast (though we all know how quickly things can change out on the water!)

There are few things you’re going to need as essentials when sailing with a baby, so here’s a little list. It will depend massively on the climates you’re sailing in so you’ll want to adjust as necessary.

• Under layers (baby grows)
• SPF rated sun cover up
• Warmer outfits (long sleeved baby grows, jumpers, trousers)
• Something really warm like an outdoor pram suit or sleeping bag in case it gets cold and windy
• Something waterproof (the outdoor pram suit will probably be waterproof but just in case!)

#15 A Bed Separator Or Cot

You’re going to need somewhere for your baby to sleep, and you probably won’t have the space for an actual cot. We’ve thought so much about this and spoken to so many different people about what works for them.

We’ll share our findings, because I think how you do it is probably a very personal thing in the end. Hopefully one of these solutions will fit for you!

Portable crib

One option is to set a portable crib on one of your beds. You can either choose to sleep beside them (say, on one side of a v-birth) or you can sleep in a separate cabin. These will stand well on a range of surfaces, and are smaller and more lightweight than a proper cot.

Moses Basket

We’ve heard mixed things about Moses baskets. You can easily fit a Moses basket in a cabin birth and sleep beside your baby, but we’ve also heard they literally last weeks before the baby grows out of them.

We’re not going to bother trying them, but perhaps they’d be a great option if you have a small baby!

Co-sleeping

Parents might choose to co-sleep with their children for various reasons, but it’s so important to read up on the safety guidelines before you do.

This could work well for sleeping on a boat, especially if you’re a little anxious like me! But just make sure you’re doing it as safely as possible but considering all the guidelines (no sundowners before bed!)

Bed Seperator

Another clever trick we’ve seen some cruisers do is to create a little bed divider, so you’re kind of co-sleeping but with something in between you and the baby. It’s still worth reading up on the co-sleeping guidelines if you’re going to do this, and checking that things like your mattress is suitable for a baby.

#16 A Baby Tent

My sister bought her little baby tent with her when they came sailing and it was probably the most useful thing she bought (asides from the lifejackets!)

It was the perfect place for her 1.5 year old to sleep. We just put the tent up in the double birth and he was encased, couldn’t get up and wander around without anyone knowing, and protected from mozzies.

We figure one of these will also be great for taking to the beach or naps outside because it will give full shade coverage, and again, good security!

✔ Shop for baby tents

#17 Sleeping Bag

A sleeping bag is a great solution for keeping your baby warm at night while on a boat. Opt for one suitable for whatever climate you’re sailing in, as each has a slightly different tog.

Sleeping bags are perfect as (if they’re the right size) they can’t ride up and risk going over babies face. They’re also great to have on board in case the temperature changes suddenly and you need to warm your baby up.

If you live aboard you might consider getting two just in case your baby covers theirs in sick or poo in the middle of the night. Having a back up is always handy when running water is a luxury!

#18 Blankets

Blankets for trips out or cold nights on board are perfect. Have a few to hand on board to you can wrap up your baby while out sailing in cooler weather, or use them as extra layers at night time.

Cellular blankets with all the little holes in are great for anxious mums like me, as if they do happen to ride up they’re a lot more breathable. Phew!

#19 Dummies & Tethers

I expect there are a lot of first time mums out there vowing not to use dummies (me included), but even my sister who has a will of steel gave in to this one at 2am one morning when finding one she’d shoved at the back of a cupboard.

Even if you don’t plan on using a dummy, you might be thankful you had one on board just in case!

#20 Somewhere To Wash Your Baby

You’re going to need somewhere to wash your baby if you live onboard full time. A sink might do for when they’re very little, but you’re going to need to upgrade pretty quickly!

A good solution is a foldable baby bath or an inflatable one. You won’t have much space onboard to store a sull sized one. The down side to an inflatable baby bath is that a) you’ll have to blow it up each time you want to use it and b) they aren’t particularly durable, especially not in a sunny, salt water environment.

But they will fold up smaller than a foldable bath, so you’ll have to decide how much storage space you can give over!

✔ Foldable baby bath

✔ Inflatable baby bath

#21 Entertainment

You won’t have much room for the usual array of baby toys that people seem to collect these days, but you’ll have the beach and dolphin watching and all manner of other interesting things to do instead.

You’ll probably want a small collection of age appropriate toys on board to keep them entertained easily on long passages, but don’t forget you can make a lot of toys out of things you probably carry on board too.

We found sticker books bought hours of fun for my niece and nephew, and my nephew absolutely loved sorting shells into different containers.

If you live on board then try connecting with other cruising families and swap toys and books every so often so you have a fresh supply of new entertainment every now and again!

Frequently Asked Questions

Some of your most frequently asked questions answered!

The age at which a baby can be on a boat may vary depending on several factors, including local regulations and the specific circumstances of the boat trip. Safety is a crucial consideration when taking a baby on a boat.

While there might not be a universally defined minimum age, it is generally recommended to wait until an infant is at least a few months old before taking them on a boat. Newborns have fragile necks and limited head control, so it is important to ensure their safety and comfort.

You might want to try out sailing life with your baby in the safety of a marina first, where the motion will be considerably less.

You should also make sure your baby is big enough to wear an appropriate life jacket .

If you’re planning to take a baby on a boat, consult with a pediatrician to get personalized advice based on your specific situation. They can provide guidance on factors such as the baby’s health and any local regulations or recommendations.

Remember that even if a baby is old enough to be on a boat, it’s crucial to take additional precautions to ensure their safety, such as providing appropriate flotation devices, protecting them from excessive sun exposure, and securing them properly on the boat.

Babies can experience seasickness , just like adults. However, the likelihood of a baby getting seasick can vary from child to child. Some babies may be more prone to motion sickness than others, while some may not be affected at all.

Motion sickness occurs when there is a disconnect between the motion sensed by the inner ear and the visual cues received by the eyes. This sensory conflict can lead to symptoms such as nausea, vomiting, dizziness, and general discomfort.

Infants and young children may be more susceptible to motion sickness because their vestibular systems (responsible for balance and spatial orientation) are still developing. Additionally, they may not have fully developed their ability to focus their vision and integrate sensory information.

If you plan to take a baby on a boat and are concerned about seasickness, here are a few tips that may help:

• Choose a stable boat: Opt for a larger boat or catamaran over a monohull that offers more stability and minimizes rocking motion.
• Stay near the center of the boat: Being in the middle of the boat can help reduce the sensation of motion compared to the front or back.
• Provide fresh air: Ensure proper ventilation and fresh air circulation on the boat, as stuffy environments can exacerbate nausea.
• Frequent breaks: Take breaks from being on the water by heading to calmer areas or returning to shore if needed.
• Avoid strong smells: Strong odors, such as fuel or food, can worsen feelings of nausea.
• Distraction and focus: Engage the baby in activities or provide toys to divert their attention and focus on something other than the motion.

It’s always a good idea to consult with your pediatrician before taking a baby on a boat, especially if they have a history of motion sickness or any other health concerns. Your pediatrician can offer personalized advice and may even suggest suitable over-the-counter remedies or medications if necessary.

We’ve read lots of different guidelines on this so it’s important to do some research of your own and come to your own conclusion. Most guidelines say wait until your baby is 2 months old before taking them for a dip, but other advice we’ve read says 6 months.

Whenever you choose to take your baby for their first dip, bear in mind that they can’t regulate their body tempoteratures in the same way you can. It’s really important not to let them get cold.

Also, be mindful of currents that might make it harder to hold your baby. Stick to shallow waters where you can easily support them.

Remember, each baby is unique, and it’s essential to consider their individual needs and health status. It’s advisable to consult with your pediatrician before taking a baby into the sea, especially if they have any specific health concerns or if you have any doubts or questions.

As you can see, sailing with a baby can be a rewarding and enjoyable experience, but it requires careful planning and consideration.

That being said, doesn’t every passage require planning and consideration?! There might just be a few extra things to keep in mind.

Here’s a quick summary of some key points to keep in mind when sailing with a baby:

• Safety first: Prioritize the safety of your baby by ensuring the boat is equipped with appropriate safety measures, including life jackets and childproofing the area where the baby will be on the boat.
• Consult with a pediatrician: Before embarking on a sailing trip, consult with your pediatrician to ensure your baby is physically ready and healthy enough for the experience. They can provide specific advice based on your baby’s age and any unique health considerations.
• Sun protection: Protect your baby from the sun’s harmful rays by using sunscreen, dressing them in protective clothing, and providing shade on the boat. Remember to reapply sunscreen regularly.
• Hydration and feeding: Keep your baby well-hydrated by providing them with fluids and ensuring they have regular feeding times. Pack necessary supplies, such as bottles, formula, breast milk, and baby food.
• Comfort and sleep arrangements: Create a comfortable and safe area for your baby on the boat where they can rest and sleep. Consider bringing familiar items, such as a favorite blanket or stuffed animal, to help them feel secure.
• Plan for breaks: Babies may need breaks from being on the boat. Plan stops at suitable locations where you can go ashore or anchor in calm areas for your baby to stretch, play, and explore.
• Be prepared for seasickness: Some babies may experience seasickness. Consult with your pediatrician about suitable remedies or medications to alleviate symptoms if needed. Monitor your baby’s well-being and provide comfort measures as necessary.
• Constant supervision: Always keep a close eye on your baby while sailing. Ensure they are within reach and protected from any potential hazards or accidents.

By following these guidelines, you can create a safe and enjoyable sailing experience for both you and your baby. Remember to be flexible and adapt to your baby’s needs throughout the trip and go make some awesome memories!

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What is a Sailboat Stay?

Last Updated by

Daniel Wade

June 15, 2022

A sailboat stay is a cable or line that supports the mast. Stays bear a significant portion of the mast load.

Stays are a significant part of a sailboat's standing rigging, and they're essential for safe sailing. Stays support the mast and bear the stress of the wind and the sails. Losing a stay is a serious problem at sea, which is why it's essential to keep your stays in good condition.

Table of contents

‍ How to Identify Sailboat Stays

Sailboat stays connected to the top of the mast to the deck of the sailboat. Stays stabilize the mast in the forward and aft directions. Stays are typically mounted to the very front of the bow and the rearmost part of the stern.

Sailboat Forestay

The forestay connects the top of the mast to the bow of the boat. The forestay also serves an additional purpose—the jib sail luff mounts to the forestay. In fact, the jib is hoisted up and down the forestay as if it were a mast.

Boats equipped with roller furlings utilize spindles at the top and base of the forestay. The spindles rotate to furl and unfurl the jib. Roller furlings maintain the structural integrity of a standard forestay.

Sailboat Backstay

Backstays aren't as multifunctional as forestays. The backstay runs from the top of the mast (opposite the forestay) to the stern of the sailing vessel, and it balances the force exerted by the forestay. Together, the forestay and the backstay keep the mast upright under load.

Sailboat Stay vs. Shroud

Stays and shrouds are often confused, as they essentially do the same thing (just in different places). Stays are only located on the bow and stern of the vessel—that's fore and aft. Shrouds run from the port and starboard side of the hull or deck to the top of the mast.

Best Sailboat Stay Materials

Traditional sailboat stays were made of rope and organic line. These materials worked fine for thousands of years, and they still do today. However, rope has limitations that modern sailboat stays don't.

For one, traditional rope is organic and prone to decay. It also stretches, which can throw off the balance of the mast and cause serious problems. Other materials, such as stainless steel, are more ideal for the modern world.

Most modern fiberglass sailboats use stainless steel stays. Stainless stays are made of strong woven stainless steel cable, which resists corrosion and stress. Stainless cables are also easy to adjust.

Why are Stays Important?

Stays keep the mast from collapsing. Typical sailboats have lightweight hollow aluminum masts. Alone, these thin towering poles could never hope to withstand the stress of a fully-deployed sail plan. More often than not, unstayed masts of any material fail rapidly under sail.

When properly adjusted, stays transfer the force of the wind from the thin and fragile mast to the deck or the hull. They distribute the power of the wind over a wider area and onto materials that can handle it. The mast alone simply provides a tall place to attach the head of the sail, along with a bit of structural support.

Sailboat Chain Plates

Sailboat stays need a strong mounting point to handle the immense forces they endure. Stays mount to the deck on chainplates, which further distribute force to support the load.

Chainplates are heavy steel mounting brackets that typically come with two pieces. One plate mounts on top of the deck and connects to the stay. The other plate mounts on the underside of the deck directly beneath the top plate, and the two-bolt together.

Mast Stay Mounting

Stays mount to the mast in several ways depending on the vessel and the mast material. On aluminum masts, stays often mount to a type of chain plate called a "tang." A tang consists of a bracket and a hole for a connecting link. Aluminum masts also use simple U-bolts for mounting stays.

Wooden masts don't hold up to traditional brackets as well as aluminum. A simple u-bolt or flat bolt-on bracket might tear right out. As a result, wooden masts often use special collars with mounting rings on each side. These collars are typically made of brass or stainless steel.

Sailboat Stays on Common Rigs

Stays on a Bermuda-rigged sailboat are critical. Bermuda rigs use a triangular mainsail . Triangular sails spread their sail area vertically, which necessitates a tall mast.

Bermuda rig masts are often thin, hollow, and made of lightweight material like aluminum to avoid making the boat top-heavy. As a result, stays, and shrouds are of critical importance on a Bermuda rig.

Traditional gaff-rigged sail plans don't suffer as much from this issue. Gaff rigs use a four-pointed mainsail. This sail has a peak that's taller than the head and sometimes taller than the mast.

Gaff-rigged cutters, sloops, schooners, and other vessels use comparatively shorter and heavier masts, which are less likely to collapse under stress. These vessels still need stays and shrouds, but their stronger masts tend to be more forgiving in unlucky situations.

How to Adjust Sailboat Stays

Sailboat stays and shrouds must be checked and adjusted from time to time, as even the strongest stainless steel cable stretches out of spec. Sailboats must be in the water when adjusting stays. Here's the best way to keep the proper tension on your stays.

Loosen the Stays

Start by loosening the forestay and backstay. Try to do this evenly, as it'll reduce the stress on the mast. Locate the turnbuckles and loosen them carefully.

Match the Turnbuckle Threads

Before tightening the turnbuckle again, make sure the top and bottom threads protrude the same amount. This reduces the chance of failure and allows you to equally adjust the stay in both directions.

Center the Mast

Make sure the mast is centered on its own. If it's not, carefully take up the slack in the direction you want it to go. Once the mast is lined up properly, it's time to tighten both turnbuckles again.

Tighten the Turnbuckles

Tighten the turnbuckles as evenly as possible. Periodically monitor the direction of the mast and make sure you aren't pulling it too far in a single direction.

Determine the Proper Stay Pressure

This step is particularly important, as stays must be tightened within a specific pressure range to work properly. The tension on a sailboat stay ranges from a few hundred pounds to several tons, so it's essential to determine the correct number ahead of time. Use an adjuster to monitor the tension.

What to Do if you Lose a Stay

Thankfully, catastrophic stay and shroud failures are relatively rare at sea. Losing a mast stay is among the worst things that can happen on a sailboat, especially when far from shore.

The stay itself can snap with tremendous force and cause injury or damage. If it doesn't hurt anyone, it'll certainly put the mast at risk of collapsing. In fact, if you lose a stay, your mast will probably collapse if stressed.

However, many sailors who lost a forestay or backstay managed to keep their mast in one piece using a halyard. In the absence of a replacement stay, any strong rope can offer some level of protection against dismasting .

How to Prevent a Stay Failure

Maintenance and prevention is the best way to avoid a catastrophic stay failure. Generally speaking, the complete failure of a stay usually happens in hazardous weather conditions or when there's something seriously wrong with the boat.

Stays sometimes fail because of manufacturing defects, but it's often due to improper tension, stripped threads, or aging cable that hasn't been replaced. Regular maintenance can prevent most of these issues.

Check the chainplates regularly, as they can corrode quietly with little warning. The deck below the chainplates should also be inspected for signs of rot or water leakage.

When to Replace Standing Rigging

Replace your stays and shrouds at least once every ten years, and don't hesitate to do it sooner if you see any signs of corrosion or fraying. Having reliable standing rigging is always worth the added expense.

Choosing a high-quality stay cable is essential, as installing substandard stays is akin to playing with fire. Your boat will thank you for it, and it'll be easier to tune your stays for maximum performance.

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I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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Standing Rigging (or ‘Name That Stay’)

Published by rigworks on november 19, 2019.

Question: When your riggers talk about standing rigging, they often use terms I don’t recognize. Can you break it down for me?

From the Rigger: Let’s play ‘Name that Stay’…

Forestay (1 or HS) – The forestay, or headstay, connects the mast to the front (bow) of the boat and keeps your mast from falling aft.

• Your forestay can be full length (masthead to deck) or fractional (1/8 to 1/4 from the top of the mast to the deck).
• Inner forestays, including staysail stays, solent stays and baby stays, connect to the mast below the main forestay and to the deck aft of the main forestay. Inner forestays allow you to hoist small inner headsails and/or provide additional stability to your rig.

Backstay (2 or BS) – The backstay runs from the mast to the back of the boat (transom) and is often adjustable to control forestay tension and the shape of the sails.

• A backstay can be either continuous (direct from mast to transom) or it may split in the lower section (7) with “legs” that ‘V’ out to the edges of the transom.
• Backstays often have hydraulic or manual tensioners built into them to increase forestay tension and bend the mast, which flattens your mainsail.
• Running backstays can be removable, adjustable, and provide additional support and tuning usually on fractional rigs. They run to the outer edges of the transom and are adjusted with each tack. The windward running back is in tension and the leeward is eased so as not to interfere with the boom and sails.
• Checkstays, useful on fractional rigs with bendy masts, are attached well below the backstay and provide aft tension to the mid panels of the mast to reduce mast bend and provide stabilization to reduce the mast from pumping.

Shrouds – Shrouds support the mast from side to side. Shrouds are either continuous or discontinuous .

Continuous rigging, common in production sailboats, means that each shroud (except the lowers) is a continuous piece of material that connects to the mast at some point, passes through the spreaders without terminating, and continues to the deck. There may be a number of continuous shrouds on your boat ( see Figure 1 ).

• Cap shrouds (3) , sometimes called uppers, extend from masthead to the chainplates at the deck.
• Intermediate shrouds (4) extend from mid-mast panel to deck.
• Lower shrouds extend from below the spreader-base to the chainplates. Fore- (5) and Aft-Lowers (6) connect to the deck either forward or aft of the cap shroud.

Discontinuous rigging, common on high performance sailboats, is a series of shorter lengths that terminate in tip cups at each spreader. The diameter of the wire/rod can be reduced in the upper sections where loads are lighter, reducing overall weight. These independent sections are referred to as V# and D# ( see Figure 2 ). For example, V1 is the lowest vertical shroud that extends from the deck to the outer tip of the first spreader. D1 is the lowest diagonal shroud that extends from the deck to the mast at the base of the first spreader. The highest section that extends from the upper spreader to the mast head may be labeled either V# or D#.

A sailboat’s standing rigging is generally built from wire rope, rod, or occasionally a super-strong synthetic fibered rope such as Dyneema ® , carbon fiber, kevlar or PBO.

• 1×19 316 grade stainless steel Wire Rope (1 group of 19 wires, very stiff with low stretch) is standard on most sailboats. Wire rope is sized/priced by its diameter which varies from boat to boat, 3/16” through 1/2″ being the most common range.
• 1×19 Compact Strand or Dyform wire, a more expensive alternative, is used to increase strength, reduce stretch, and minimize diameter on high performance boats such as catamarans. It is also the best alternative when replacing rod with wire.
• Rod rigging offers lower stretch, longer life expectancy, and higher breaking strength than wire. Unlike wire rope, rod is defined by its breaking strength, usually ranging from -10 to -40 (approx. 10k to 40k breaking strength), rather than diameter. So, for example, we refer to 7/16” wire (diameter) vs. -10 Rod (breaking strength).
• Composite Rigging is a popular option for racing boats. It offers comparable breaking strengths to wire and rod with a significant reduction in weight and often lower stretch.

Are your eyes crossing yet? This is probably enough for now, but stay tuned for our next ‘Ask the Rigger’. We will continue this discussion with some of the fittings/connections/hardware associated with your standing rigging.

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A baby had no home after a stay in the NICU. Her nurses adopted her.

‘you never know who is out there who needs you,’ said nicu nurse drew deras.

Nurses Taylor and Drew Deras doted on tiny and fragile baby Ella, one of their premature NICU patients who was born at 23 weeks, weighing just over a pound.

The couple, who met during an overnight shift and got married a few years later, both treated Ella when she was at her weakest. There were points they thought she wouldn’t make it.

“She was very, very little and very, very sick,” said Taylor Deras, 31, who, along with her husband, is a NICU nurse at Methodist Women’s Hospital in Omaha. “Every time I worked, I would take care of her.”

Ella, who was born in May 2021, needed intensive medical care, including several blood transfusions. Whenever Taylor Deras had downtime during her shift, she would snuggle Ella and read to her.

Her husband, who also had a soft spot for the baby girl, did the same.

Ella’s biological mother was in her early 20s, the Derases said, and she struggled to keep a job and a home. Ella’s father was not in the picture.

Initially, Ella’s mother would visit regularly, Taylor Deras said, explaining that they developed a close relationship. Over time, as Ella’s health stabilized, she came less frequently. In December 2021, Ella was deemed a ward of the state, at which point her health declined and she was transferred to Children’s Nebraska .

When she was finally strong enough to go home in April 2022, Ella faced another setback.

“Ella did not have a stable home to go to,” Taylor Deras said.

The Derases — who had been married since 2020 and trying for a baby for about a year — called Ella’s social worker and offered to be her foster parents. Since she was still medically fragile, they knew they would be well-equipped to care for her, and they worried about her health if she entered the foster care system.

“Maybe this is our pathway to becoming parents,” Drew Deras recalled thinking. “This is our chance.”

The couple also found out that Ella’s biological mother wanted her daughter to stay with the nurses who had lovingly cared for her for close to a year.

“She told the CPS worker ‘I want her to go to them; they know her best,’” said Taylor Deras.

After completing foster parent training, the Derases took Ella home when she was 11 months old. One of her first words was “dada.”

While the Derases were thrilled to have Ella living with them, they knew there was a looming possibility her mother might want her back.

“We tried not to get too attached to Ella, but we were also super excited that we got to take care of her,” said Drew Deras.

“We were just so thankful that Ella was in our home, and we were keeping her safe,” said Taylor Deras.

Ella’s birth mother continued to visit her daughter. During one visit, she told the Derases: “You guys are her parents.”

“That gave us a lot of peace,” said Drew Deras.

In July 2023, Ella’s biological mother relinquished her parental rights, clearing the way for the Derases to adopt her. On Nov. 18 — which was National Adoption Day — they made it official.

“There was so much excitement going on at the courthouse,” said Taylor Deras, adding that many of their colleagues came to the proceeding. “It was just everything we prayed for and worked for and advocated for.”

“We had just been wanting this for so long. It’s hard to put into words,” said her husband, explaining that they continue to have a good relationship with Ella’s biological mother and give her updates from time to time.

Ella, who is nearly 3, has a tracheostomy — a surgically created hole in her windpipe that provides an air passage for breathing — as well as a gastrostomy button (G-button) for feeding. The Derases said both are likely to be removed within the year.

“Every week she gets better and better,” said Taylor Deras. “She’s walking and talking, and we didn’t know if she was going to be able to do those things.”

The Derases’ story has been covered in both local and national news , and they hope it inspires others struggling to grow their family to consider fostering or adopting.

“You never know who is out there who needs you,” said Drew Deras.

The Derases said they’re open to taking in more children.

“There are children out there that have special needs and need fostering and adopting,” said Taylor Deras.

“They deserve love,” Drew Deras said.

For now, they are savoring the time with their daughter, whom they described as “sassy, smart, kind and bubbly, and loves to be challenged.” Ella will start preschool in the fall.

“We’re so lucky that we’re the ones who get to put her to bed every night, and the first people she gets to wake up to,” said Drew Deras.

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'I can't believe that': Watch hundreds of baby emperor penguins jump off huge ice cliff

Bertie gregory, a national geographic cinematographer, catches emperor penguins jumping off a 50-foot antarctic glacier in incredible, never-before-seen footage. gregory's astonishment is palpable..

Nothing gets in the way of a baby emperor penguin getting into the water, not even a huge ice cliff. 

The courage some chicks have in the face of adversity is truly unmatched, serving them well as hundreds were documented taking a deep dive off an Antarctic cliff in January. 

The “unprecedented” footage was captured by Bertie Gregory, an award-winning British cinematographer for National Geographic. 

The penguin chicks captured in the clip below knowingly and maybe a bit hesitantly jumped, a sight that Gregory says is “pretty unbelievable.” 

“I had no idea that the chicks would be able to make such a giant leap," he says. "And not just survive, but happily swim off together into the Southern Ocean …  How’s that for your first swimming lesson?”

Watch the ‘unbelievable’ series of leaps here 

It's not unusual for emperor penguin chicks to march toward the ocean at a young age, even when they're just 6 months old. They jump just 2 feet off the ice to take their first swim, according to National Geographic. 

Others have jumped from a much a higher altitude, heading to “sheer ice cliffs” knowingly to make the first jump. Satellites have recorded the death-defying jumps since 2009, but what happens next has remained a mystery until now. 

A colony of chicks are seen making their way along the edge of the huge ice cliff, moving together toward the edge, as Gregory wonders aloud: “What on Earth is going on here? … Where are these chicks going?” 

They stop just short of the edge. 

“That cliff has got to be 40-50 feet high,” Gregory says. "I’ve only ever seen emperors jumping off the sea ice. And that's a couple of feet maximum. Surely, they can’t be thinking of going off there."

One lone chick ... one giant leap

One lone chick reaches the edge, adjusting its position slightly before a big, brave leap into the icy water. It makes a big splash and soon after is swimming with ease. 

“I can’t believe that. He’s made it,” Gregory says. 

The rest of the chicks take the successful dive as a sign to move forward, with a number of chicks launching themselves into the water every couple of seconds. 

“So, we know these chicks have grown up together. And they stick together," Gregory says. "I think a lot are going to start to jump. Those first brave jumpers seem to give the rest the confidence to follow. Some of them are even trying to flap their wings."

National Geographic clip is just the start, documentary coming soon

The “never-before-filmed” behavior you just witnessed is part of a larger National Geographic docuseries set to premiere on Earth Day (April 22) in 2025. Stay tuned for more information on the award-winning SECRETS OF franchise, SECRETS OF THE PENGUINS.

Brazil authorities open investigations into boat with decomposed bodies

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Mexican public health officials are sounding an alarm after a study discovered the presence of animal tranquilizer Xylazine in opioids in cities on the country's northwest border with the United States.

As Mexican banda music scales new heights globally, a festering dispute in the genre's traditional home turf pits frustrated hotel owners against the strolling ensembles that play songs on the beach at all hours of the day and night.

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Sydney stabbing that killed 6 was not an ideological attack, police say

Sydney police on Sunday ruled out terror or ideology as a motive after a man killed six people in a random stabbing attack on Saturday in one of the city's busiest shopping centres.

Iran's Islamic Revolutionary Guards Corps said it launched dozens of drones and missiles at Israel on Saturday, in an attack that could lead to a major escalation between the regional archenemies.

The U.S. military has shot down Iranian drone aircraft headed toward Israel on Saturday, three U.S. officials said, without disclosing how many drones were shot down or the precise locations.

Jordan's air defences were ready to intercept and shoot down any Iranian drones or aircraft that violate its airspace, two regional security sources said.