bavaria yacht gelcoat colour

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Gelcoat Color for Bavaria

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Need to do some minor gelcoat repair. Does anyone know the RAL number for Gelcoat on a late model Bavaria (Vision 46)?? Also, do you know a good source in the US for buying Gelcoat? I have found sources in Germany, but without the RAL number in the US, no luck. Thanks in advance for your assistance!  

A direct contact with Bavaria or a Bavaria dealer should be your source of such information. An active dealer should also have info on which (local) Gel source 'already' has this information to be capable of supplying the matched color/hue. Failing that, the 'best' way to color match gelcoat is to cut a 3/4" plug from hull, or other surface and send the sample out for computerized color analysis ... which will include an assay for any fading/oxidation or other color change due to sunlight exposure. If your eyeballs are over ~50 years of age, forget doing an eyeball color match, as old eyes dont see nor comprehend 'red' very well. I like and use Gel Coat Products, Inc., Seattle, Washington for good color matching and service. Gel-coat Products They have quite a large color-match data base of production boats on file. Their cost of color analyzing a 'plug' is approx. $100. As many of these gel suppliers do, they will offer 'paste' and 'ready to spray' forms of gelcoat. If you want perfection, Id suggest the final application to be a spray. Do websearch for ""Gelcoat Repair Without a Mess" + "John Gabriel" for a simple yet comprehensive DVD/video. For small repairs using spray technique: Preval Sprayer  

You could try these guys Fibre Glast They have a color chart that you could rent or buy so you can match color Could be a RAL 9016  

Contact Spectrum in FL... you send them a sample of YOUR gelcoat and they match it. It's what the pros use and recommend here in LIS. All Categories  

$ 133 a quart thats a bit more then Fiberglast at $ 39 a quart and they do RAL #'s  

I don't imagine that mfg have a RAL #... so it's better to match... especially with some UV fading.  

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Gelcoat repair colour matching – the quick way

• January 5, 2015

A basic colour match may not be perfect – but in most cases it’ll do the job and is much easier to use than professional repair products

Gelcoat repair colour matching is a tricky business – and to do a professionally matched repair is complicated. However, if your boat has a pigmented hull, it is possible to get a fairly close match using clear gel coat and a bottle of pigment. Chandlers will sell a range of small pots of colour designed to replicate the most popular (unfaded) shades.

The pigment is mixed into the gel coat before the catalyst is added, so can be compared against the hull nearest the damage. For the very best results, use a polishing compound on the damaged area of the hull first, to remove oxidation and get to the true underlying colour.

1. As with the previous repair, the damage is tidied with a blade, cleaned with acetone, and the area around it masked off.

2. A small amount of clear gel coat – more than enough to fill the repair – is decanted into a calibrated beaker…

3. …and then placed onto some digital scales (these improve accuracy when mixing in a ratio of catalyst). If you don’t have scales you can make a ‘guesstimate’ based on volume instead.

4.Using a bottle of grey pigment, which seems pretty close to our boat colour, we measure out no more than 10% by weight – or volume – using a graduated beaker.

5. The pigment is thoroughly mixed in, and then wax-in- styrene is added to a ratio of 5%. A small syringe will be useful here. NOTE: The wax rises to the surface of the gel coat, excluding air (necessary to allow the gel coat to cure properly underneath). It is also possible to use a spray wax coating over the gel coat instead, or some repairs can even be done by taping airtight film over the top.

6. To bulk out the gel coat and stop it running out of the gouge, you can add fine silica powder. Wear a mask – the powder is carcinogenic.

7. When ready to proceed, just add catalyst at a ratio of 2% and mix together thoroughly.

8. Work the paste into the hole using a plastic applicator.

9. Once cured, the repair should be standing slightly proud of the surrounding area…

10. …so it can be sanded with 400-grit paper until flush with the rest of the gel coat.

11.Then sand lightly again with an 800-grit abrasive to restore the smooth surface

12. Finally, give the whole area a buff with a cutting compound/gel restorer to bring back the shine.

13. While not as perfect as a professional colour-matched repair, this scratch will be still be hard to detect from a distance.

Gelcoat repair: How to make an invisible repair

Everything you need to know to make an invisible gelcoat repair, from preparation and filling to topcoat and polishing

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Bavaria 2006 Gel coat white RAL number?

• Thread starter Jason14
• Start date 10 Dec 2020
• 10 Dec 2020

does anyone know the RAL number for the white on the Bavaria Yachts of 2006 vintage? just got a small repair to make and wanted to match it the best I could? thanks  

Well-known member

I don't know the RAL number but suspect that a boat that old, the colour would have faded making the RAL number irrelevant. Possibly the best you can do is try to mix some pigment colours together to the correct shade before adding to a clear gel coat.  

It should be RAL9016 however, as Boathook says, your boat will no longer be that colour and some fiddling will be needed to arrive at a match.  

pvb said: It should be RAL9016 however, as Boathook says, your boat will no longer be that colour and some fiddling will be needed to arrive at a match. Click to expand...

AngusMcDoon

Jason14 said: Many thanks, i thought it may have faded but its a good starting point at the manufacturers colour Click to expand...

Beneteau381

AngusMcDoon said: I've used a RAL colour code gelcoat for minor repairs using the same colour code that boat was built with 20 years ago. At first there is a slight difference because of fade, but a year later the new stuff seems to have faded the same as the old and now it can't be seen. Click to expand...

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Matching gelcoat with a colorimeter ?

• Thread starter Leeward Rail
• Start date Feb 19, 2022
• Forums for All Owners
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Leeward Rail

Matching gelcoat with colorimeter... Has anyone done this? Do gelcoat companies has a way to match their colour to Lab, RGB, Hex etc. like you can with paint ? Did a quick Google search and can't seem to find any info, and figured I would ask the group before I spent half a day making phone calls.  

Haven't heard of anything like that. Seems like someone with that ability would be advertising heavily to let people know. AFAIK you have to tint the gelcoat with colorants until you get the right mix for the color you need. Then it invariably shifts colors when it is finally cured. Paint pigments might work with gelcoat, so then you'd have an answer. Might be worth a try to find out, unless someone's already tried and can tell us.  

To match gelcoat colour recently on a 38 and 18 year-old boats, I went to Spectrum (see catalogue) and was able to match the colour perfectly on both. You can also take a chip to your local automotive body shop who can also match the colour.  

Attachments

• Spectrum Color Catalog July 2020.pdf 5.4 MB Views: 679

Use the advice shared in the previous posts. I will add in to trust your eyes. Electronics are a great tool, but don't overcomplicate this one.  

sail sfbay said: You can also take a chip to your local automotive body shop who can also match the colour. Click to expand

jnorten said: Electronics are a great tool, but don't overcomplicate this one Click to expand

sail sfbay said: To match gelcoat colour recently on a 38 and18 year-old boats, I went to Spectrum (see catalogue) and was able to match the colour perfectly on both. Click to expand

My 1984 boat was an off-white, close to a light and purchased a Spectrum Grady White 1995-2004, off white gelcoat patch kit from the Spectrum catalogue and guess what..........first kit matched perfectly. So you might find the color off their catalogue that match your boat without time-consuming trial and error mixing colors like my gelcoat contractor did.  

Colorimeter...........any of various instruments designed to determine the color of something, by comparison with standard colors or by spectroscopy What does colorimeter mean - Definition of colorimeter - Word finder (findwords.info) .......just saying.  

Justin_NSA said: Isn't a colorimeter a proctologist's instrument? Click to expand

sail sfbay said: any of various instruments designed to determine the color of something, by comparison with standard colors or by spectroscopy Click to expand

Leeward Rail said: Traditionally the devices for paint matching are large and expensive, but like many electronic devices that include optical sensors, there are now, handheld units at very reasonable prices. Click to expand

I've used Spectrum to match my early 80's Catalina white. It's pretty good (nearly perfect, but not p-e-r-f-e-c-t) without modification. I also found white MarineTex epoxy putty (more specifically WM's version) is pretty darn close too and cheaper. I'm fussy, but only 6 feet fussy. If it's good from 6 feet, then it's good for me. The electronics are fantastic, but will still require some delicate mixing of drops of tint. . . .Oops overdid it by one drop of tint. . . .Now gotta' try again. . . .  

jnorten said: The electronics are fantastic, but will still require some delicate mixing of drops of tint. . . .Oops overdid it by one drop of tint. . . .Now gotta' try again. . . . Click to expand

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To start the ball rolling – I have a June 2000 boat and have the following problems –

1. Wobbly stanchions 2. Thin deck gelcoat (going ‘grey’ in places). 😥

Does anyone have similar problems and are there any tried and trusted solutions you can recommend ❓

Overall, though, we still love the boat, especially the rear cabin (stateroom!) and the galley which works very well, both at sea and in harbour. 😀

On our B32 I have the wobbly stanchion base problem (2 so far) along with a leak which I think is coming from one of them. A preliminary investigation (feeling in the back of a locker!) reveals no nuts to tighten. Do they really just screw to the deck?

Mine have a single bolt with the nut accessible from underneath – there is a removable narrow panel at the back of each locker/wardrobe to give access – albeit quite fiddly.

The single bolt is on a 2 inch stub that projects above the deck and is secured underneath the deck with a washer and nut. The 2 foot stanchion fits, rather sloppily, over the stub and is secured with a single short bolt through the stanchion into the stub.

The wobbliness comes firstly from the loose fit of the stanchion over the stub and secondly from the leverage of the 2 foot stanchion on the 2 inch stub. It is the latter that worries me – I get the feeling that a hard shove at the top of the stanchion could damage the deck around the fixing hole. I’m pleased to say, though, that in 7 seasons, this hasn’t happened yet.

I have had to reseal each base, using Sikaflex, to ensure a waterproof joint between the stanchion, stub and deck. This is quite easy to do – about 10 minutes per stanchion.

Hope this helps.

Thanks for the post.

The stanchions on Minna (B32 2002) are different from how you describe.

They are secured using two screws which can be seen on the deck. I also found rummaging around in lockers fiddly but I found no nuts. I need to do a more careful check when I have some more time to do it properly with a torch and a small mirror.

I agree with the thought on geometry, a 2ft stanchion on such a small base is bound to work loose over time.

Our B32 ( Nov 2003) has two securing bolts which go through the deck and through the wooden inner gunwhale rail. None of ours have worked loose, but we had a slight leak on one this year, so removed the back of the locker and got a small socket on the nuts and removed the stanchion. Easy job, completed the whole thing having re-sealed with sikaflex in a few minutes.

Thanks for the post, I need to go and look again when I get some time.

The last time it was sailing or stanchions and sailing won!

I have just found a large leak – we have had torrential rain here over the last 48 hours. Water was seen running from the after side of the port hanging locker. I removed the thin ply panels which where wet and found a couple of stanchion studs with nut, washers and split washers. There was evidience of leakage here. I removed the nuts and washers and found corrosion (crevice) on the back face of each washer. The stanchion is held in with two small locking bolts, on ford and one aft. On removal of these two bolts the stanchon can be pryed of its support pillar. Once removed it’s easy to removed the pillars and studs. I then cleaned up the holes, removed the old sealant and wiped the area with acetone to remove any oil. This done I filled the holes with a sealant – not sikaflex as I might want to get them off again. The sealer I used is a cross bewteen silicon and sekaflex but does not completely harden. Once filled I placed the pillars and studs back in their respective holes and knocked them home. I then placed more selaant on top of the pillar flange and repalced the stanchions and wires. Once doen I refitted the nuts and washers ensureing that I placed selaant on the washers – messy but worth while. Tightened the nuts and job done. Now I need rain or a hose to check to see if my handy work has stopped the ingress of water. I’ll revert when I have had chance to water test them.

Regards, GCP.

Hi Nashira,

I have succesfully carried out the same stanchion repair job. Make sure you also check the seal between the pulpit and the deck. Even in light rain the water runs from the whole pulpit down to the four deck fixings. After you have hose tested the toerail and stanchion bases, play a hose spray on the pulpit rail and watch how the water forms and runs down. Once inside the water can travel towards the stern making it appear as if the leak is from the stanchions. A small smear of flexible sealant around the four base fittings each year will prevent this leak. I also found that this was the main source of water that was making the front bunk cushions wet.

Regards, Loblolly

Thank you for your valued advice. I have had to re bed another two stanchions, next in line up the deck. I have taken down some of the very flimsy ply linings in the lockers and can see the bead of sealant that seals the deck to the hull. There are signs of water ingress which has probably been there for a long time. I am going to lift all o fhte S/S plates fastened to the toe rail and re seal with a flexible sealant and I will pay particular attention to the pullpit.

I’m in the UK at the moment – dismal and dark! But hope to be home end of this month when i will have another go at it. Thanks,

Have not had any stanchion leaks on my B34, which i have had from new in 2000 but you should hear me curse anyone who pushes my boat off using the gaurd rails and stanchions. Get everyone used to pushing at the toe rail to give the stanchion bases the best chance of survival. I learned this from my two previous boats and believe that no boat builder has ever made a stanchion base capable of taking the load you can apply by using the stanchions as a 2 foot lever.

I am very interested in your comments about thin Gelcoat as we do have a problem with our B34 in the cockpit coaming area. We have noticed that no matter how we polish and maintain the gelcoat, the top is a different colour white and deteriorates to a dull finish very quickly. We suspect that when the deck moulding was built there were imperfections in the coaming area, wghich would have been in the base of the mould and that these have been touched up by some sort of sprayed gelcoat finish, which weathers more quickly and is a slightly different colour.

Could this be the case and if so has anyone else got the same problem. If so is this a latent defect that should be dealt with by the manufacturer, even though the hull warranty period has just expired.

Would like to hear from anyone interested before i speak to Opal.

I would support any action with Opal as I have the problem in the port side of the cockpit and around the port side of the hatch garage on deck. It is clear to me that the gelcoat was too thin and the smallest amount of polishing (to ‘remove’ grey areas) actually exacerbated the problem.

I suspect Opal will duck and weave but may, at least, suggest what can be done (at our expense, no doubt) to give some cosmetic improvement.

G’day, Now back down under after 3 hectic weeks in the UK and Europe. Found more water leaking in to the after hanging locker – see post above. So I have now completed re sealing all stanchion bases. Leaks stopped. To be safe I will address the Starb side as well.

Gel coat. I have a couple of areas in way of the toe rail and the centre set of cleats that have small longitudinal stress cracks. I imagine these are relatively easy to repair with gel coat, but colour matching could be an issue? Has anyone had good results in colour matching? Off white. Polishing gel coat can be a problem especially if you use a vehicle type polish or cutting compound. These products are much harsher than marine type compunds and can degrade the gel coat and sometimes cut right through it. I have not noticed any areas of thin gel coat but have not yet done any serious polishing.

Fair winds,

After completing re sealing all of the Starb side stanchion bases I thought I clear of problems. another down pour and noticed more leakage in to the aft cabin locker. This time I enlisted the help of the shore side water supply and carefully checked each individual deck fitting. Low and behold I found the centre set of toe rail cleats on the Starb side to be the culprit. The forward bolt which is held captive by the cleats appears to have never been sealed. I attempted to remove the bolts from the cleats but due to access problems gave up. My only recourse now is to seal the bolt head within the cleat. Hopefully this should fix this outstanding problem.

The previous Owner of Nashira had the boat up in QLD and used a boom tent to ocver most of the deck. It is conceivable that he never realised that there was a problem. Anyhow hopefully this is the end of the saga and no more leakage.

Fair winds.

Have spoken to Opal and as you predicted they did not show a lot of interest. They suggested sanding down the gelcoat with very fine wet and dry, then giving a good coat of wax. I still feel that this is quite a serious latent defect. Whilst i appreciate that some making good is necessary to the finished deck moulding, the process used should provide fiberglass that is fit for purpose, not a material that weathers rapidly. What do you think.

Well done for trying with Opal!

In my case I believe the problem is very thin gelcoat. I tried 400 grade wet and dry some time ago and it just made the problem worse.

Since my boat is 7 seasons old I anticipate that Opal would show zero interest although I agree it is a latent defect. However, it would probably need solicitors letters etc in order to get them to accept it as such.

What I would appreciate is some advice, from anywhere, on what could be done to improve the cosmetics. Whatever solution is suggested doesn’t need to be too hardwearing as the areas in question aren’t subject to much wear and tear.

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• Portsmouth Eastward Ho

Portsmouth Eastward Ho Boats for sale

1976 PORTSMOUTH Eastward Ho

Neptune, New Jersey

Make PORTSMOUTH

Model Eastward Ho

Category Sailboats

Posted Over 1 Month

1976 PORTSMOUTH Eastward Ho All of the prep work has been done and she's just about ready for paint. This is a great opportunity for someone looking to customize an Eastward Ho their way and do it cheap!   Seller has all parts to complete this project. Also available separately is the completely rebuilt 14HP Volvo MD7A Diesel engine, ready to be placed in the boat.  Top to Bottom rebuild was performed by world renowned Monmouth Marine Engines of Brielle NJ. $3000 Invested.

Belmar, New Jersey

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• Sailboat Guide

Eastward HO 24

Eastward HO 24 is a 23 ′ 7 ″ / 7.2 m monohull sailboat designed by Walter McInnis and built by C. E. Ryder starting in 1975.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

Originally designed for wood contruction. The hulls of the later, FG version were built by CE Ryder (USA) and finished by Portsmouth Yacht Co. Diesel power was available as an option.

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Eastward ho 24 preowned sailboats for sale by owner. Eastward ho 24 used sailboats for sale by owner.

Both salon settees turn into two twin beds so can sleep 4 adults. YEAR: 1977 MAKE: Portsmouth Yacht Co MODEL: Eastward Ho CLASS: Sloop, Pocket Cruiser LENGTH: 26' (24' with 2' boomkin) HULL MATERIAL: FIberglass reinforced plastic FUEL TYPE: Diesel. AIR CONDITIONING: Drop in Cruise Air. ALL PHOTOS ARE RECENT.

1978. 31'. 10'. 4.2'. Florida. $12,900. Description: Airyella is a classic New England style sloop - has incredible character, is very distinctive, and is a pleasure to sail. She is perfect for anyone looking for a boat that will sail, and anchor overnight with 1-5 people, comfortably in the bay and the Keys and beyond, at a fantastic price.

1976. 24'. 9'. 4'. Connecticut. $12,000. Description: Built by CE Ryder (USA) and finished by Portsmouth Yacht Co., Rhode Island, USA, this stout pocket cruiser is a solid full-keel sailing vessel. Omoo has had a lot of updates including new diesel engine (Kubota Beta marine), rebuilt gearbox (2021), new standing and running rigging (2020), new ...

Broker: Designed by Eldredge-McInnis and built by Portsmouth Yacht Co., the Eastward Ho is a compact yet roomy sloop designed for family cruising in comfort. She is a proven design which combines traditional elegance with practical accommodations. Nothing has been overlooked to satisfy both the sailor and the cruising enthusiast.

A boat with a BN of 1.6 or greater is a boat that will be reefed often in offshore cruising. Derek Harvey, "Multihulls for Cruising and Racing", International Marine, Camden, Maine, 1991, states that a BN of 1 is generally accepted as the dividing line between so-called slow and fast multihulls.

Model McInnis. Category Sailboats. Length 31'. Posted Over 1 Month. 1985 #1 Hull McInnis,31 ft., 4.5ft. draft, McInnis Cutter rig Eastward Ho series. 28hp Yanmar diesel, All hardwood Interior, Complete custom finished, In bristol condition. Completely blue water equipt.Leave Message at 772/283-0853. $40000.

Go to Sailing Texas classifieds for current sailboats for sale . Eastward HO 24, 1977 LOA 25'5" LWL 20' Beam 8'8" Draft 3'10" SA 283 sq ft Ballast 3,600 Displacement 7,000 Keel Full Designed by Thomas F. Eldredge/Walter J. Mcinnis and built by the Portsmouth Boat Company (UK).

Used 1978 Eastward Ho 31 for sale is located in Bienville National Forest (Mississippi, United States of America). This vessel was designed and built by the Eastward shipyard in 1978. Key features 1978 Eastward Ho 31: length 9.45 meters. engine: fuel type - diesel. 1978 Eastward Ho 31 refers to classes: sailing yachts , sailboats and sailing ...

Seller's Description. Portsmouth Eastward Ho 24, 1978 sailboat for sale I am selling my 1978 Portsmouth Eastward Ho 24 for $12,500. The boat is in Alamitos Bay (Seal Beach, CA / Long Beach, CA) where the buyer may assume the slip at $320 a month. Very nice location, across the street from the new 2nd and PCH outdoor mall.

Go to Sailing Texas classifieds for current sailboats for sale Eastward Ho, 24 ft., 1975 No. 55, 1975. Highly regarded Eldridge/McGinnis cruising design- Full keel, 4 ft. draft. ... The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more. Formula. D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³ ...

Seller's Description. 1980 Portsmouth Yacht Co Eastward Ho 31. She is a classic designed in 1959, built in 1980. Similar to the Sea Sprite 33 that Robin Graham sailed around the world. Custom interior Volvo Penta MD2B 25hp Nice thick teak toe rail Electric Windlass Auto Helm Updated hardware above deck Updated rigging Bimini, dodger frames ...

Search eastward ho 24 prices - more than 1 listings - Built by CE Ryder (USA) and finished by Portsmouth Yacht Co., Rhode Island, USA, this stout pocket cruiser is a solid full-keel sailing vessel. ... 1976 CE Ryder Eastward Ho 24 sailboat for sale in Connecticut. Ce Ryder eastward ho 24 . Built by CE Ryder (USA) and finished by Portsmouth ...

Boat Trader currently has 3 Eastward boats for sale, including 1 new vessels and 2 used boats listed by both private sellers and professional yacht brokers and boat dealerships mainly in United States. The oldest model listed is a contemporary boat built in 2018 and the newest model year of 2021.

Join Date: Aug 2018. Posts: 3. Eastward Ho 31 Sailboat. Cutter Rig. Eldredge McInnis design, built in RI by C. Ryder Yachts. Roller furling jib. Jib boom & roller for twin furlers. Re-built Volvo Penta 30hp with spare engine & transmission. Bimini & dodger.

35.5' Endeavour E35 Presently on the hard for winter storage at Morgans Marina, New Jersey Asking $35,000

2015 Malibu Wakesetter 22 VLX. Battle Creek, MI. $40,000. 2008 Hydra-Sports 2200 CC. Sarasota, FL. $26,500. 2 new and used Portsmouth Eastward Ho boats for sale at smartmarineguide.com.

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Advertisement. Eastward HO 24 is a 23′ 7″ / 7.2 m monohull sailboat designed by Walter McInnis and built by C. E. Ryder starting in 1975.