us yacht 25 sloop sailboat 1982

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US Yacht 25' - Are they as bad as they say?

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Hi, I'm getting ready to purchase a 25' US Yacht for $2500, but I recently read that they are built from the molds once used for Bayliner boats. Apparently Bayliner sold the design to Pearson, who built a few boats and then they sold it to US Yacht who used it for a few years in the early 80's. The boat I'm looking at seems pretty decent, and has everything I'm looking for (except headroom). It seems well built and solid, it has a split backstay, in mast halyards, in boom outhaul, cockpit forward traveler, Lewmar winches, an enclosed head, operable portholes, a decent sail inventory, etc. I don't plan on having a survey done, as I don't think it's worth paying 20% of the boats purchase price to have someone tell me what I already know. I've gone over every inch and I haven't found any issues. No water penetration, no loose hardware, no chain plate problems, (teak bulkheads), no soft spots, nothing really stands out. All in all it appears to be a decent little boat, which makes me wonder why everyone I've talked to says they are pieces of junk. Has anyone owned or been intimate with one of these? This picture is not the actually boat, but exactly like it. US 25  

THAT pic is not a pic of a typicaly Bayliner that most of us know about. In reality, that boat looks like a decent designed and sailable boat. The bayliners that I know about in that range would have a deck another 1-2' higher and another row of windows. I also do not recall any problems with some of the US Yacht boats built. Yes a spin off of Bayliner, that did go BK in the 80's, but a lot of BB's did that do to the recession at the time, including Cal, O'Day, Islander, Erickson etc that built nice boats. Marty  

Some owner reviews here: http://www.sailboatowners.com/reviews/revread.tpl?fno=499.93&id=11837863117890830 Sounds like it is not put together any better than the Bayliner though it looks better.  

Excellent, thanks camaraderie, that was some good info. Now I don't know what to do...  

I sailed on one of these years ago - very small cockpit since they try to cram some accomodation into a smallish hull. Decent performance for a small boat, though. It is actually a Gary Mull design - which is a good thing - but of concern, for example, was that fact that the main bulkhead was not tabbed into the hull. I can recall seeing light between the hull liner and the bulkhead edge. The US 22 and 25 were Mull, the Buccaneer 295/US30 and 33 were Doug Peterson designs - decent pedigrees but reputedly poor execution. But at least from a design point of view they were leaps ahead of the infamous Buccaneers that most associate with the name (and Bayliner).  

Has anyone owned or been intimate with one of these? Click to expand...

Not a Bayliner Buccaneer Have you ever heard of a US Yacht with blisters? I know of expensive boats 2-3 years old with them. That says alot about these 25+ year old boats! They aren 't tanks like the Buccs, but they aren't all that sluggish either... Brian US30 Wu-Wei  

What 2-3 year old boats have you seen with blisters? Brand names please!!  

us 25 I just recently bought a US 25 and I love it! The cockpit is a bit cramped and the tiller seems a little long, and getting to the outboard can be an adventure but over all I think she is a fine craft and I look forward to many happy years at the helm! How ever I have found it very difficult to locate much info on this model....any help would be appreciated!  

The issue is what you cant SEE Which would be all the wood stringers that have a high ROT rate i am sure sailnet member US27inKS can give you expert advise on were to check as he did a COMPLETE rebuild of a 27'  

When are manufacturers going to start using trex decking in place of wood?  

The orginal Bayliner 25 was a boat to stay away from. It was designed with to little of a sail area, too much freeboard with little if any input from a sailing aspect of boating being developed by the powerboat manufacturer. The US 25 however is quite different. I owned one and outsailed alot of 25ft buidlt by others and gave more room than most. The teck sole was a nice added. I wished I had gone with the US29, since the head room was missing. The quality was good. Hope you are enjoying  

I have a US25 and it's great. There are quite a few threads on this forum with both sides speaking out, but I say to make sure to listen to those that own them and sail them regularly. Very well balanced boat with a good amount of space inside and out for it's size. As for the tiller issue, I replaced my wine with a shorter one made out of hazelnut wood. I thought it was too long too. Agreed on the headroom, just a few more inches in height would be nice.  

GraemeInCanada said: I have a US25 and it's great. There are quite a few threads on this forum with both sides speaking out, but I say to make sure to listen to those that own them and sail them regularly. Very well balanced boat with a good amount of space inside and out for it's size. As for the tiller issue, I replaced my wine with a shorter one made out of hazelnut wood. I thought it was too long too. Agreed on the headroom, just a few more inches in height would be nice. Click to expand...

theres a 78 bucanneer 25ft asking 4 grand near where i live. Just FYI, i live in montreal but i'm currently visting my parents in Alabama. heres the link: BUCCANEER - Saint-Jean-sur-Richelieu Voiliers à vendre - Kijiji Saint-Jean-sur-Richelieu What do you think about this one?  

No kidding, but he is leaving for a month.:laugher  

The US Yachts were actually decent built boats. They weren't fast, but they were decent cruisers. Things to look for are bulkheads being rotted, as well as the teak/holly sole will be trashed. The windows leaked (like everything 30+ years old). They do sail quite well, and the fin keel model will hold up in a blow like nobody's business. They aren't pointing machines, but who cares its a $2500 sailboat. If the bulkheads are good, the chainplates are good, standing rigging is passable. Mast straight and all hardware still present... You're 99% there. Other thing to check is the rudder post, these wobble (not a big deal), but you'll have to shim it to keep it from dropping the rudder. Not unusual to hear of the rudders falling out, again, take some precautions and you'll be fine. My father bought a brand new US 27 in 1981 (I was his crew). It was a HELLUVA boat. We sailed it on Lake Norman, NC for 4 years, then moved it to NJ and sailed it on Barnegat. We actually raced it a lot, lost lots... We only ever placed when the winds were 30+ sustained, and a water spout formed on the lake. As for the US 25? My brother owned one for 10+ years (just sold it about 4 years ago)... Windows leaked like a strainer. Sailed it like mad though. They go over quick, then harden up nicely about 20 degrees. Trick to get them moving is a decent sized genoa. On the 27 we had a 170 we used up until the winds his 20+, on the 25 my brother never had more than a 110, and because of it, spent many a hot day with light winds going very slow. These are masthead rigs with blade mains, again headsail is the key. If you want any more information feel free to PM me.  

Hilarious...  

I can see why this guy has been banned from other forums, his internet cojones' keep getting in the way.  

Did he say when that month starts?  

Attitude is everything........well, at least for some folks.  

Upkeep is the deal (the windows leak, like in my Capri 25, and my Capri 22, at 30+ yeras the seals/windows crack and leak, duh)...as for kenneth... well, I think he stands out as a colossal waste of electrons, other than that... who cares? The OP asked a question are they horribly built as has been said. They aren't any worse than, a Catalina, or a Hunter, or a MacGregor, evidence is they are still being sailed 30 years later, and they were a production boat. They have their issues, as they all do. My personal experience with the 27, and the 25 is they are tough boats, sail well, but aren't going to set the water on fire with speed. With that they are big for their size (cruiser class). The US Yacht brand is slightly different than the Buccaneer or Bayliner models, they are arguably lighter, and less ugly, and generally better laid out.  

SHNOOL said: Upkeep is the deal (the windows leak, like in my Capri 25, and my Capri 22, at 30+ yeras the seals/windows crack and leak, duh)...as for kenneth... well, I think he stands out as a colossal waste of electrons, other than that... who cares? The OP asked a question are they horribly built as has been said. They aren't any worse than, a Catalina, or a Hunter, or a MacGregor, evidence is they are still being sailed 30 years later, and they were a production boat. They have their issues, as they all do. My personal experience with the 27, and the 25 is they are tough boats, sail well, but aren't going to set the water on fire with speed. With that they are big for their size (cruiser class). The US Yacht brand is slightly different than the Buccaneer or Bayliner models, they are arguably lighter, and less ugly, and generally better laid out. Click to expand...

Yes but when they were Us yacht the topsides and lines changed sugnificantly as I understand it they eventually became the Triton molds before they were (are) abandoned. Yep I understand the molds still exist. Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2  

Hi. I thought I have a US25, but now I think its a Buccaneer 255. Its a 1979 model and US yachts didnt take over til 1981. Plus it has a Volvo sail drive 50s 7.5 hp. None of the US yachts seem to have one, or Buccaneer 250s. I found the specs on the 255, but no pics. Its all is the same as the US 25 and Buc 250 except it weighs 4100 instead of 3750, and the spec said 3.5 ft draft but mine has a deep keel. I was wondering where the extra weight comes from? The sail drive weighs under 70 lbs. Does anyone know about these Buccaneer 255s. I dont think there are that many of them.  

I cant speak of the exact model but the Buccaneers as I recall had taller topsides than the US line. I'm betting this is where the weight difference is. Keep in mind those weights are "average" as with all boats and can vary as much as 20% within the production. The buccs and bayliners may have been the same hulls but the layouts and decks were different. As also said the topsides were taller on the older models. Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2  

Ok, i found a magazine ad for the 1979 buccaneer 250. Go figure? Its sister ship is the 255 and comes with an inboard. Extra weight must be from fuels tank, exhaust, blower, and stuff like that. The 250 weighs 3750, just like the us yachts version. If you got the optional galley, then the cabin is layed out like the Us 25. Mystery solved  

Looks like a nice boat I would go for it. Have you looked at any San Juans same year nice boat as well, Or a Captive 240 fast but tender and a nice interior as well.  

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Bayfield 25

When Madison, Wisconsin, resident Barb Constans and her partner Deb Rohde were preparing to downsize from their Southern Cross 31 Tao they had a few specific criteria: Their new boat needed to be trailerable, offer standing headroom, have a classic look and the versatility required for bluewater sailing (no small feat for a trailerable boat), and it had to have a decent trailer.

With those non-negotiable criteria in mind, they set their sights on just the right pocket cruiser: the Bayfield 25.

Designed by Ted Gozzard and built from 1975 to 1984 at Bayfield Boat Yard in Ontario, Canada, the Bayfield 25 is well known for its 1,500-pound full keel that draws less than 3 feet, shippy-looking miniature bowsprit and comfortable living spaces that provide 6 feet of standing headroom.

"We've been sailing together for 30 years, and we were very clear on what we were looking for," Constans said. "We also wanted a full keel, solid construction, deck-stepped mast and a nice, dependable, inboard diesel engine. The Bayfield 25 had it all."

Constans and Rohde paid $11,200 for the boat they found on Lake Winnebago, a 1982 Bayfield 25 they renamed Zephyr . The name honored their late pet, a cocker spaniel who joined them on a nine-month sabbatical cruise down the East Coast, through the Bahamas and into the Caribbean.

"It's a perfect name," Constans said simply. "It's a warm west wind and the name of a really great boat dog."

The price was midrange for a Bayfield 25 of this vintage: prices can range from $8,000 up to $15,000, depending on the boat's condition and how much work has been done.

Zephyr , the trailer, Yanmar 1GM single-cylinder diesel engine and sails-a main and a roller-furling genoa-were all in good condition, so Constans knew she wasn't facing a major reconstruction project. Yet there was going to be a substantial to-do list anyway.

"This is probably our last boat," she said. "We don't want her to be a project for the rest of our lives, but she needed updating to make her safer and more comfortable for liveaboard cruising."

That fall, the first task was to strip off the standing and running rigging and lifelines, which had never been replaced. Constans went to West Shore Marine in Racine, Wisconsin, for new stays, lifelines, turnbuckles and lifeline latches. She also bought new genoa sheets, and she replaced the mainsheets with line she had in stock at home. The halyards also needed replacing but she was able to use spares from their previous boat.

The 8-horsepower Yanmar didn't need refurbishing, but Constans decided that future maintenance and trouble-shooting would be made easier if they had service and parts manuals for it. So she approached Torresen Marine of Muskegon, Michigan, which provided the documentation.

"You can change the oil, filters and impellers yourself, and at the very least, you can figure out what the problem might be before you call a diesel mechanic," Constans advised. "It's good to have drawings that are specific to your engine, especially if the mechanic is used to working on cars."

Then, in spring 2012, Constans embarked on the bulk of the retrofit. She anticipated two to three weeks of work; it ended up taking six.

First, she replaced the winches, since self-tailing models would make it easier to sail shorthanded. She purchased two new Lewmar 16ST winches on sale from West Marine and installed them herself.

"I definitely learned a lot," she said with a chuckle. "The new winches didn't match our old winch holes, and it was an interesting and difficult process to set them properly and drill straight down. There was a lot of measuring and drilling, and it took much longer than I thought.

"It's worth it to look for expensive items on sale," she added. "I do a lot of shopping before we buy anything."

After that, Constans addressed the lighting belowdecks. She replaced all but one interior light, added two new halogen Aqua Signal reading lights in the V-berth and mounted a small kerosene swing lamp on the wall in the main cabin.

Constans soon found herself rewiring all of the boat's living spaces. Zephyr's wiring was old, and it wasn't tinned. So she replaced the wires with ABYC standard yacht wire.

"I was lucky, because I had a lot of electrical supplies from rewiring our previous boats, and I didn't have to replace the panel, which can be costly," she said. "Predicting what a rewiring job will cost is difficult, because it depends on the size of the boat and how many feet you need."

Next, Constans replaced the stationary, crazed portlights with two stainless steel opening models from Port Townsend, Washington-based Newfound Metals.

"Newfound Metals was so great," Constans said. "They have a YouTube how-to installation video, and they talked to me a bunch of times. Even so, it was significantly more work than I expected. Imagine trying to hold a sliding, heavy porthole in place on a thin sidewall and drilling! I had to buy clamps and screws to hold everything in place.

"I was dealing with templates, and it was tough to find the right lengths of metric screws because you've got to match stainless with stainless and not just buy any old screw from the hardware store," she continued. "This was one of the most complicated projects I've ever done. If you're going to do it, have a partner, and avoid 90-degree days! Butyl tape melts more than you'd think."

Because Constans and Rohde are frequently on the hook, Zephyr 's anchor was a critical feature. The boat came with a Bruce, but Constans opted for a 25-pound CQR with bow roller; she kept the Bruce as a backup.

"The CQR is a nice working anchor," she observed. "It's held everywhere. But I suppose sailors tend to stick with what makes them comfortable."

After cutting blocks of wood to serve as backing plates, Constans placed the anchor mount farther out on the bowsprit. That way, the CQR could sit on one side with the Bruce on the other.

Constans then turned her attention to Zephyr 's lead-acid batteries, replacing them with two AGM Group 27 batteries. She purchased battery boxes as well.

She also added a new LinkLITE battery monitor, similar to the one she and Rohde once had on Tao .

"It's disconcerting to not know the condition of the dedicated starting battery and house battery," Constans explained. "Being able to keep track of that was important. But space is at a premium, and it was challenging to decide where to mount the monitor and bus bar, and then figure out the wiring."

Next came the galley. Zephyr came with a two-burner, fixed-position stove, which Constans removed. Instead, she added a Coleman one-burner propane stove and a Forespar swing stove. And she purchased a Whale telescoping faucet, which has an on/off switch at the nozzle.

Then, Constans replaced the boat's bow and stern lights, as well as the mast light, with Aqua Signal Series 25 non-LEDs.

Finally, Constans addressed safety issues. The existing compass had a bubble in the oil, indicating a gasket failure, so she replaced it with a Plastimo Contest through-read model, which is viewable from the cockpit or down below.

"A friend helped me make the interior and exterior wood mounting rings, as the hole was a bit too big," she noted.

In addition, she bought a large radar reflector to help make Zephyr a bigger target on heavily trafficked waterways, added Tao's Apelco VHF radio with WAM unit, purchased a cockpit speaker so they would be able to hear the VHF and replaced the aging fire extinguisher with a larger, brand-new one.

The foredeck cleats were corroded, so she replaced those with new stainless steel cleats and wood backing plates. And, she added two stainless steel Johnson folding midship cleats along the boat's toerails so they could rig spring lines.

Constans also was determined to address the boat's anchor locker. There was no way to keep it shut.

"We're planning to take her on the Great Lakes, to the Intracoastal Waterway and even across the Gulf Stream to the Bahamas," she said. "In the event of a knockdown, I don't want that thing open."

She purchased a big, heavy, stainless steel barrel bolt from Jamestown Distributors. It was expensive, but it did the trick. Constans and Rohde also made several minor improvements including adding small amenities to the head, purchasing egg-crate foam for the V-berth, sewing a new head curtain, sewing winch and tiller covers, sewing sheet bags, using plastic snap-lid containers in the lockers to keep things dry, and adding a 12-volt outlet to the cockpit for the GPS and another down below. They also stripped some of the wood and replaced varnish with Sikkens. Constans estimates that about 90% of the refit was DIY.

There was one exception. Constans hired Select Plastics of Norwalk, Connecticut, to refurbish Zephyr's aging, crazed hatch. The company took the Lexan out, put acrylic in and added new gaskets and holes. And, at Constans's request, they incorporated her old solar vent.

"Over the years, I've learned when I can do something myself and when I need to find skilled labor," Constans said. "That being said, we had a problem with the trailer this fall, so in the spring I'm going to find someone to teach me to repack bearings. "

Constans has a few more things on her list. She'd like to add a mast floodlight for anchoring, a bimini top, a gin pole so she and Rohde can take the mast up and down themselves, a tiller pilot and a fuel pump to replace the existing manual one.

"I'm also thinking of sewing a gennaker," she mused. "I've never tried that."

To get a sense of what a new gennaker would cost, SAILING contacted UK Sailmakers in Annapolis, Maryland. Representative Dave Coughlin said the company would recommend a Matrix-cut Flasher; compared to Tri Radial, Matrix has more panels to allow better shape, performance and tear control. He also recommended Dimension Polyant's Dilon 100, a high-performance, 1.05-ounce-per-yard, ripstop spinnaker fabric that comes in a wide range of colors.

Sail area would come to 490 square feet, based on 165% Spinnaker Maximum Width (SMW). Coughlin said he estimates the price would come to roughly $1,617, which includes the sail and side-launch sail bag.

Opting to take sailmaking off their ambitious DIY list might be a good thing, because Constans and Rohde are looking forward to some serious sailing. Although the pair keep Zephyr at Mazanet Marine on Lake Mendota and enjoy lake sailing, they definitely are planning to cruise big water.

"We have a two-week cruise in the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore in our sights," Constans said. "Now we have a trailerable boat, so it's very doable."

When asked if she's happy with the Bayfield 25 so far, Constans is enthusiastic.

"She's a great boat," she said. "She's faster than our 31 was, and she can go out in 25 to 30 knots with two reefs in the main; she just jogs right along. She handles waves well. We're really pleased with her."

1982 Bayfield 25 (with trailer): $11,200

Retrofit Projects & Costs:

Replace rigging and lifelines $1,000

Genoa sheets $80

Yanmar 1GM service and parts manuals $165

Winches $1,100

New lighting and wiring $715

Two portlights $1,334

Anchor, anchor mount, bow roller $553

Batteries and battery monitor $760

Galley upgrades $237

Compass $153

Cleats $170

Fabric for curtain, sheet bags, winch covers $100

Misc. improvements $390

Refurbish hatch and add solar vent $371

Retrofit total $7,128

64% of Purchase Price

Grand total $18,328

Bayfield Yacht Owners Yahoo Group, http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/bayfieldyachts/info; Defender, 800-628-8225, www.defender.com; Jamestown Distributors, 800-497-0010, www.jamestowndistributors.com; Newfound Metals, 888-437-5512, www.newfoundmetals.com; Select Plastics, 877-874-3767, www.selectplastics.com; Torresen Marine, 231-759-8596, www.torresen.com; West Marine, 800-262-8464, www.westmarine.com; UK Sailmakers, 718-885-2028 , www.uksailmakers.com; West Shore Marine, 262-632-2724, www.westshoreinc.com

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• Sailboat Reviews

Remarkably roomy for such a small boat, the 25 is well finishedand offers enough performance for racing.

Just a few years ago, the prospective buyer of a 25′ sailboat knew that some serious compromises awaited him. His 25-footer would probably have little more than sitting headroom, might have four shelves that could reasonably be called berths, and probably had a head stowed under the forward berth. The galley? With luck, a two-burner alcohol stove, maybe a sink, and a water tank holding ten gallons.

Auxiliary power? Usually a 6 hp outboard hanging off the stern or in a well in the lazarette.

With today’s economy, more and more people who once might have considered a 30-footer are downscaling their size expectations to something more realistic, perhaps a 25- or 27-footer. While they may downgrade their expectations in terms of the length of their boats, they have not downgraded their expectations in terms of the size boat they want. This is not the contradiction it may seem. The fact is that there are a number of boats less than 27′ in overall length that offer room and features akin to those offered in older 30′ boats.

For better or worse, economic reality has forced many of us to downsize our boat expectations in much the way we downsized our automobile expectations.

Then came a new generation of small cruising auxiliaries. The modern 25′ “family” sailboat has 6′ headroom, berths for a family of five—if privacy isn’t a high priority—enclosed head, and perhaps an inboard diesel engine. A regular miniature yacht.

The Ericson 25+ is a good example. The proof of the popularity of this concept shows in the numbers. Over 660 units were built in the first three years after the Ericson 25+ was introduced in late 1978.

Designer Bruce King had a long and successful relationship with Ericson Yachts, starting with the Ericson 23, 30, 32, and 41 of the late 1960s. He has not been exclusively an Ericson “house” designer—witness the magnificent Herreshoff-inspired 90′ ketch Whitehawk to his design—but the vast majority of Ericson boats came from his board.

Bruce King and Ericson found a formula not unlike that of Bill Shaw and Pearson: build a wide range of boats of similar type in two to three foot increments, develop customer loyalty, and watch the customers move up through the ranks. Keep the really popular models, such as the Pearson 35 or the Ericson 35, and bring out other models every few years to catch the latest trend. That formula worked whether you were on the East Coast or the West, and like Pearson, Ericson had the formula down pat.

With the exception of a few forays into the cruising market with the clipper-bowed Cruising 31 and the Cruising 38 (later to be called Independence), the Ericson formula produced a well finished cruiserracer with good sailing characteristics. The Ericson 25+ was part of this successful formula.

Construction

The hull of the Ericson 25+ is a solid hand layup. A molded fiberglass body pan is glassed to the inside of the hull, functioning as the base for much of the interior furniture and adding a certain amount of rigidity to the hull. The deck, cockpit, and cabin trunk molding is balsa cored, with plywood replacing the balsa in high stress areas such as under the deck-stepped mast and where deck hardware is mounted.

Exterior glasswork is of good quality, with little roving printthrough, Gelcoat work is good.

The hull-to-deck joint depends on a secondary chemical bond. Both the hull and deck have an external molded flange. Glass-reinforced polyester resin is used as a bedding compound between these flanges. The inside of this joint is then lapped with four layers of fiberglass mat and cloth. This joint is covered on the outside by a plastic extrusion with a soft plastic insert which functions as a rub rail. We prefer a mechanically fastened hull-to-deck joint, because the strength of secondary chemical bonds is very difficult to evaluate.

The deck of the 25+ has a remarkably solid feel thanks to its cored construction. Neither the deck, cockpit, nor cabin top had any of the sponginess frequently associated with small boats.

Deck hardware of the 25+ is well mounted. Stanchions, pulpits, cleats, and winches have adequate aluminum bearing plates. The tiller head is a substantial chrome-plated bronze casting, The transom is plywood cored, greatly adding to its rigidity.

The mast of the 25+ is a black, deck-stepped extrusion. The stainless steel mast step looks surprisingly fragile. Because the mast is designed to be owner-stepped if desired, the forward lower half of the base of the mast is cut away to allow the mast to pivot forward for lowering. We doubt if there are many owners who will step their own masts. The design of the mast step to facilitate raising and lowering has greatly reduced the bearing surface of the heel of the mast.

In contrast to the mast step, the shroud chainplates are of surprisingly heavy construction. The 25+ utilizes Navtec chainplates, shroud terminals, and turnbuckles. Chainplates are strongly tied to the hull.

All through hull fittings below the waterline have Zytel valves, a reinforced plastic. Most have double-clamped hoses, but the icebox drain hose has a single clamp. Although modern plastics are strong, we suggest that you carefully inventory through hull fittings, as they are a major culprit in many sinkings of otherwise undamaged boats. Plastic valves may be immune to electrolysis, but they cannot be forgotten any more than bronze seacocks can be ignored.

Handling Under Sail

Despite the chubbiness of the 25+, owners report that she is a fast boat under sail. There are a number of features that contribute to this speed, She has minimum wetted surface, despite a displacement that is average for her overall length, though fairly light for a waterline length of almost 22′.

The Ericson 25+, 28+, and 30+ all feature Bruce King’s trademark, the “delta” fin keel. King states that this keel form has very low induced drag, and the 25’s performance reinforces his belief. The optional shoal draft keel reduces draft a foot, reduces lateral plane, and no doubt reduces windward ability, Unless you are bound and determined to have a boat drawing under four feet, by all means get the deeper draft version.

The rig of the 25+ is a high aspect ratio 7/8 sloop rig. The mainsail hoist of 31.5′ is unusual for a 25′ boat. In light air, tall rigs are usually faster, and we would expect the boat’s best point of sail to be upwind in light air. Since a great deal of the sailing in the world seems to be upwind in light air, this approach to the rig is a rational one.

With the addition of a backstay adjuster—easy because of the split backstay—it is possible to induce a reasonable amount of mast bend to control sail shape. A full width mainsheet traveler mounted on the cockpit bridgedeck greatly enhances mainsail control.

Shroud chainplates are set well inboard, allowing narrow headsail sheeting angles. The genoa track is also located inboard, almost against the cabin side.

There is no main boom topping lift, We think this is pretty indefensible on a cruising boat, and despite the additional windage, a topping lift is greatly to be desired on a racing boat. Without a topping lift, reefing becomes a real exercise in agility. Dropping the mainsail is greatly complicated, especially when cruising shorthanded. Should the main halyard break when sailing close hauled, the main boom could brain anyone sitting on the leeward side of the cockpit.

Two-speed Barient headsail sheet winches were standard in later boats. There is room on the cockpit coamings both for the addition of secondary winches for spinnaker handling and the replacement of the standard winches with larger ones. A single halyard winch is mounted on the mast, There is no main halyard winch. We would choose the optional aftleading halyards to facilitate shorthanded cruising.

The 25+ should sail with almost any other production cruiser-racer of her size. Her wide beam and deep draft should offset the additional heeling moment of the tall rig. Like all wide modern boats she should be sailed on her feet. Get the crew weight out on the weather rail in a breeze, and she should carry sail well.

Handling Under Power

There were probably more power options for the 25+ than any similar-sized boat on the market. They included: outboard power, OMC gas saildrive, Volvo diesel saildrive, and Yanmar diesel inboard.

The 25+ is small enough to be driven fairly well by a 10-hp outboard. There was about a $3,500 difference in equipping the boat with an outboard engine versus the diesel inboard. The choice depended largely on how the boat was to be used. Few boats of this size are used for long-distance cruising. For daysailing and racing, an outboard engine is more than adequate.

If extended coastal cruising is to be the boat’s primary activity, then one of the inboard options should be considered. Frankly, we have little love for saildrive installations. If you really want an inboard engine, the Yanmar single cylinder inboard diesel is the real choice. No matter which engine is in the boat, it is equipped with a 20-gallon aluminum fuel tank.

With a one-cylinder diesel engine, given a fourknot cruising speed and fuel consumption of about 1/4 gallon per hour, the range under power is almost 350 miles—a truly astounding range for a 25′ boat, That’s probably more range under power than the average boat is likely to need for an entire season.

Deck Layout

With shroud chainplates set well inboard, and a reasonably narrow cabin trunk, working on the deck of the 25+ is fairly easy. There is adequate room between the shrouds and the lifelines to walk outboard of the shrouds with ease.

There is a small foredeck anchor well, adequate for the stowage of a single Danforth and rode. There are no bow chocks, but there are two cleats located forward at the outboard edge of the deck.

Molded-in nonskid of a color contrasting to the primary deck color was standard on the Ericson. This relieves eyestrain in bright sunlight and reduces the basically austere external appearance of the boat.

The cockpit of the 25+ is comfortable. Coamings are angled outward rather than being vertical, allowing a more natural sitting posture. As in most tiller-steered boats, the sweep of the tiller occupies a large percentage of the cockpit volume. In port, the tiller swings up and out of the way, providing un-crowded seating for up to six adults.

A single cockpit scupper 1—1/ 2″ in diameter is recessed in a well at the back of the cockpit. The well allows water to drain on either tack. A stainless steel strainer over the scupper reduces its effective area by over 50%. Since the drain size is large enough to pass on through almost any debris that is likely to be found in the cockpit, we would remove the strainer for sailing. A single 1-1/2″ diameter scupper has more cross sectional area than two 1″ drains, and is less likely to clog.

There are two cockpit lockers. The starboard cockpit locker is a shallow pan suitable for storing small items such as winch handles and sail ties. At its after corner is a deeper bin which could make a handy icebox for cold drinks. The port locker is a large, deep affair which unfortunately suffers from the common failing of not being adequately separated from the under-cockpit area, A snap-in Dacron bag would convert this locker to reasonable sail stowage.

The companionway uses thick, well-made solid teak dropboards with proper step joints to prevent spray from working below, Unfortunately, the very strong taper to the companionway slides allows them to be removed by lifting less than an inch. For sailing in rough water, a positive means of securing these slides—a sliding bolt, for example—must be installed.

It is gratifying to see a real bridgedeck in a boat this size. Except for the strong taper to the companionway sides, this is one of the best designed cockpits we have seen in a small boat.

The amount of interior volume in the 25+ is truly remarkable. The boat easily has the headroom and elbow room of most older 30-footers.

The forepeak contains the usual V-berth with a filler to form a nominal double. We truly mean nominal. Two normal-sized people simply do not fit in the forward berth of the Ericson 25+. Consider it a large single instead, or a double for two children. Water and holding tanks occupy the space under the berth.

The 25+ has a genuine enclosed, standup head, an almost unheard of luxury in a boat this size. The head has an opening port for ventilation. There are two small lockers in the head, but both are largely occupied by plumbing hoses.

Opposite the head is a small hanging locker. This locker is fully lined with teak plywood, a nice finishing touch.

It is in the main cabin that the 25+ really shines. Headroom is an honest 6′. Two comfortable settee berths seat 6 in comfort, A fold-down drop-leaf table is big enough to serve 4, and is one of the sturdier tables of this type that we have seen.

The main cabin of the 25+ is well finished with a combination of off-white fiberglass and teak. This is a very successful decorating job, without so much teak as to turn the interior into a cave but with enough to give a well finished appearance. A ceiling of teak strips became standard later on in the production run, and the cabin trunk sides are veneered in teak. A teak and holly cabin sole came standard, with two access hatches to the bilge.

There is a real bilge, unusual in a boat of this size. The strainer for the cockpit-mounted Whale Gusher pump is accessible through a cabin sole hatch.

Under the settee on each side of the cabin there are storage bins. These make use of molded polyethylene drop-in liners, a most practical solution which recognizes the reality that under-seat storage is rarely, if ever, completely dry. An optional extension to the starboard settee converts it to a double berth, but at the expense of easy access to the storage bins underneath.

The galley is surprisingly complete for a 25′ boat. There is a well-insulated icebox of five cubic foot capacity. The insulation is exposed in the port cockpit locker, and will be vulnerable to damage from items stowed there. It could easily be sealed off with either plywood or fiberglass to protect it. The icebox lid is an uninsulated molding advertised as a removable serving tray. If it is used as a serving tray, then the icebox is uncovered, allowing the ice to melt. Whoever thought up that bright idea should go back to the drawing board or look around for some common sense.

For some reason, icebox lids are one of the poorest design features of most sailboats, It’s quite remarkable on boats with otherwise thoughtful design and construction to see poor icebox design. Perhaps there is collusion between the Union of Icebox Designers and the Association of Manufacturers of Ice to maximize the consumption of ice aboard sailboats.

There are storage lockers both above and below the icebox-stove counter. The stove is a recessed Kenyon two-burner alcohol unit with a cutting block cover, These stoves have the fuel fill located between the two burners, and we feel they are a poor choice for use aboard a boat. The burners must be absolutely cool before the fuel tank is filled to eliminate the possibility of explosion or fire.

It is not necessary to step on the galley counter when coming down the companionway. This is a real plus. Footprints on the counters have never appealed to us.

A human-sized quarterberth is a welcome feature. With adequate headroom over, it eliminates the coffinlike aura of so many small-boat quarterberths, and is without a doubt the roomiest, most comfortable berth on the boat.

With an outboard engine, the room under the cockpit that would normally house an inboard is given over to storage. The tiny one-cylinder Yanmar diesel would easily shoehorn into the same space.

Without a doubt, the interior of the Ericson 25+ is a real accomplishment, It is well finished, generally well designed, and remarkably roomy for a boat of this overall length. There is some miniaturization of components, such as the galley sink, head sink, and hanging locker. Nonetheless, she’s a big little boat, and would be truly comfortable for extended coastal cruising for a couple. That is something that can rarely be said for a 25′ boat.

Conclusions

Ericson came very close to achieving their goals in the 25+. She is about as much boat as can be crammed into this overall length.

An interesting option is an E-Z Loader trailer. With a beam of over 9′ and a weight of 5,000 pounds, the 25+ is no trailer sailer. It takes a large, powerful car or truck to tow a boat of this size, and the beam could present legal problems in some states. The trailer would be most useful for taking the boat home for winter storage, rather than frequent over-the-road transport.

Workmanship and finish detail are generally of good stock boat quality. Exposed joiner work is good. Fillet bonding varies from good to only fair, with glasswork generally good.

The Ericson 25+ is a good small cruiser for a young family, and offers enough sailing performance to be a reasonable choice for club racing.

Unlike many small cruiser-racers which concentrate on interior volume and forsake sailing ability, the 25+ really will sail. This means that the new sailor will not quickly outgrow her as he or she learns what makes a boat go fast. With good hardware such as Barient and Navtec and a fairly high degree of finish detail, it is easy to see why the boat fetches the prices it does.

For those used to less-expensive 25-footers, the cost will be a shock. It helps a little to think of her as a 28-footer with the stern cut off.

With an inboard diesel, a good light air rig, and lots of interior volume, she’s a good little cruising boat for a couple. A maximum boat for minimum length, she’s a modern solution to skyrocketing costs of sailing. At maximum price for her length when new, she’s not an example of “more for less,” but then, there’s no free lunch in the sailboat market. That’s for sure.

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SPECIFICATIONS

• DESCRIPTION

(SOLD) 1982 Catalina 25

1982 Catalina 25

Classic cruiser/racer that is well maintained with many updates which keeps her a joy to sail including a 2012 Yamaha 4 Stroke 9.9hp outboard 25 ' shaft.

This sea kindly sloop only comes to market due to the owners relocation.

Currently located in Brewer Yacht Yard, Glen Cove, she is hauled on the hard with her rigging

intact, easily launched with some traditional spring preparation.

Additional pictures forth coming.

• Manufacturer: Catalina
• Category: Sail
• Condition: Used
• Location: Glen Cove US
• Vessel Name: Catalina 25
• Hull Material: Fiberglass
• Designer: Frank Butler
• Make: Yamaha
• Engines(s): 1
• Engine Type: Outboard 4 Stroke
• Fuel Type: unleaded
• Horsepower: 9.9|horsepower
• Total Heads: 1
• Length: 25 ft
• Draft - max: 4 ft
• Fresh Water Tank:
• Holding Tank:

DESCRIPTIONS

The Catalina 25 masthead sloop is a good racer/cruiser for inland and coastal waters.

 (2013) Sunbrella bimini, sail cover, and all interior cushions in matching dark navy.   

Sails & Rigging

The mast is deck stepped on a stainless tabernacle with a keel stepped wooden compression post, allowing for a quick raising or lowering of the mast.

One set of spreaders, supported by three sets of shrouds, two sets of lowers and one set of uppers.

Jib car tracks are outboard

Rudder & Keel

A transom hung unbalanced spade rudder drawing 2'10"

This 25 Catalina has a classic "pop top" cabin top, which raises the head room to 6'4" and provides ample ventilation, giving a 360 view while standing below.

Large cockpit can sit 6.

Bench's are broad with back rest coamings.

Cup holders, cleats winch's.

Cockpit is self bailing.

Stainless  steel rails surrounds the cockpit with lifelines extending forward.

SS swim ladder hangs from the stern.

Halyard winches aft.

Disclaimer The Company offers the details of this vessel in good faith but cannot guarantee or warrant the accuracy of this information nor warrant the condition of the vessel. A buyer should instruct his agents, or his surveyors, to investigate such details as the buyer desires validated. This vessel is offered subject to prior sale, price change, or withdrawal without notice.

PRESENTED BY

Mike o’rourke, get brochure.

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1982 25 foot US Bayliner Sloop Sailboat for sale in Barefoot Bay, FL

Boat Basics

Boat Details

The Ultimate Guide to Boating in Florida: Unleashing the Best of Florida's Aquatic Adventures

When it comes to boating, few places can compare to the breathtaking beauty and many opportunities that Florida has to offer. With its miles of coastline, countless lakes, and meandering rivers, the Sunshine State truly is a boater's paradise. It's no wonder that Florida has more boats than any other state in the US with over 1,000,000 boats as of 2022. Whether you're a seasoned sailor or a novice ...(click to read more)

Additional Boat Details

Interior layout Sleeps 5, 2in Vberth, 2

Galley 2 Burner Alchol Stove, Sink,

Electronic Equipment VHF and Depht Sounder

Electrical System Battery

Other Equipment Trailer tandem axle, has just had $1,100 in work. New radial tires, new brake drums, marine grade brake shoes, new races & bearings

Remarks 1982 US Yacht/Bayliner 25’ TALL RIG SLOOP, 30’ MAST, 105” BOOM, 8’ BEAM 125 &150” JIBS, LARGE TRI-RADIAL SPINNAKER. FIBERGLASS HULL & DECK. TILLER STEERING. FAST BOAT. Galley w/2 burner alcohol stove, S/S sink storage cabinets. Sleeps 5 w/quarter berth. Enclosed head. Interior completely refinished. Boat drafts 30” w/board up, 5’ w/ swing keel down. VHF, depth sounder, 2 bulk head compasses, 3 lite mast head light & anchor light. Trailer tandem axle, has just had $1,100 in work. New radial tires, new brake drums, marine grade brake shoes, new races & bearings. Surge brakes. 10 hp Honda 4 stroke kicker. Boat has been used in freash water lakes only. Located near Sebastian, Florida. Call DAVE @ 406-369-6420 or 406-369-1500. Asking $7,000

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• Sailboat Guide

1983 Merit 25

• Description

Seller's Description

The Merit 25 is a 25-foot sloop designed by Paul Yates as a Midget Ocean Racing Club (MORC) racer and built by Merit Marine in the United States.

It is a recreational keelboat built predominantly of fiberglass with teak wood trim. The Merit 25 is a solidly built sloop that seats five comfortably in a self-draining cockpit.

7.5 foot V berths & 2 long Quarter berths SS sink on starboard Bottom sanded, primered and painted 2022 Second Owner since new New main halyard, recent interior paint. teak hatch boards recently varnished.

Equipment: 90, 120, and 150 jibs Main sail with reef points Spinnaker; near new Whisker and Spinnaker poles Tiller extension Roller furling jib Adjustable backstay Danforth Anchor and 1/2” Nylon rode 2 two speed Harken Jib sheet winches. Single speed jib and main halyard winch on cabin top

Harken 2 speed winches cleaned and lubricated; Fall 2022 Harken Single speed halyard winches cleaned and lubricated Summer 2022 5 hp Suzuki outboard motor and fuel tank, Runs good TRAILER; near new tires, replaced wheel bearings, new wood rails, new lights, in good condition.

Priced to sell. $5500

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

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