luders 33 sailboat for sale

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Though a dated design with short waterline and full keel, this boat sails better than her contemporaries.

The 1960s produced a whole passel of smaller production yachts of a similar style designed by the likes of Phil Rhodes, Carl Alberg, Olin Stephens, and Ted Hood. These are quite traditional boats with moderate overhang fore and aft, modest topside height, full keel, heavier displacement, low aspect rig, and perky sheerline.

One of the most popular and typical of this style of boat is the Luders 33 designed by Bill Luders and built by Allied Yachts of Catskill, NY, from 1966 to 1974. Luders, a former boatbuilder as well as designer, designed the 1964 America’s Cup contender American Eagle , a fleet of 44′ yawls for the US Naval Academy, and the Sea Sprite 34.

It is unfortunate that the builder of the Luders 33, Allied Yachts, had such a troubled existence, struggling for survival from the early 1970s until the firm finally succumbed for good in 1981. In its heyday in the late 1960s, Allied built some popular boats including the 35′ Seabreeze, the 39′ Mistress, and the semi-classic Seawind 30 (later the 32′ Seawind II) as well as the Luders 33.

The problem for the used boat buyer in considering a boat from a defunct builder is compounded in the case of Allied. In its struggle in its latter years the quality of the boats Allied built became inconsistent. This is more notable in the detailing and finish work than in basic construction, but it is a factor to consider. However, this should not be as much a problem for buyers of the 33 as for later Allied products.

A Close Look at the Boat

Throughout its nine year production run, a bit more than 100 Luders 33s were built. Still, like such similar boats as the Alberg 30, the relative scarcity and traditional styling have made it a bit of a cult object.

With her short waterline, heavy weight, short rig, large amount of wetted surface, and small prop in aperture, the 33 can hardly be termed a spritely performer under either sail or power. For instance, against the more modern (designed in 1968) but otherwise comparable Tartan 34, the 33 gives away more than 20 seconds per mile under PHRF.

At the same time the 33 is no slouch when sailing among heavier boats of her type. At her introduction, much was made of her hull design having been tank tested; indeed in the later 1960s, 33s compiled a creditable racing record. At their best in winds of 10 to 15 knots and smoother seas, a number are still successfully raced in PHRF events in the Northeast where winds are typically moderate. Although short, the rig with its big mainsail and masthead foretriangle provides plenty of sail power; however, a good reefing system is needed to prevent overpowering in a breeze. One advantage of the large mainsail is the ease with which the boat can be handled under mainsail alone, in contrast to the difficulty of sailing a modern tall, skinny mainsail design without a headsail.

For power the 33 will have either the original Gray 25 hp gas engine, the 27 hp gas Palmer (after 1967), or a small retrofitted diesel. All can provide enough push ahead, but the prop location and size hurts backing down.

Belowdecks the 33, like so many of boats of her size and type, is decidedly cramped compared to more recent 33-footers, although it’s spacious for a boat with a waterline length of merely 24′.

The forward berths are comfortable; the upper or pilot berth in the main saloon is handier as a catchall than it is for sleeping; the pull-out transom berth is not bad as either a seat or a berth; and the “convertible dinette” is just fine for those who want to have a double berth and who don’t object to the compromise.

Other than the dinette, the layout of the 33 is definitely “traditional” with an athwartships galley aft, a small head, and an icebox lid that doubles as a chart table. The raised cabin trunk with large windows was a popular feature in production boats of this era, providing headroom, light, and cockpit protection.

The interior decor of the 33 was intended to be plain and functional, although a number of owners report dressing it up with wood, replacing Formica surfaces. The quality of the joinerwork and finish varied somewhat during the production run but in general can be deemed about average.

The cockpit is short by modern standards but has more abundant stowage space in seat lockers and lazarette than in later boats fitted with quarterberths and cockpits extending to the transom. The original design was for tiller steering, but many 33s have been subsequently fitted with wheel steering. Owners report wheel steering preferable for ease at the helm but are divided on whether it should be located forward or aft in the cockpit.

The decor might be plain, but there seems no question that the basic construction of the 33 is rugged. The weight of the boat apart from ballast amounts to a whopping 8,000 pounds, a weight that today is closer to the all-up displacement of boats with waterlines 2′ to 4′ longer.

What to Look For

As with so many boats built more than, say, 10 years ago, weaknesses such as inadequate hull-to-deck joints, poor bulkhead tabbing and the like have long since become apparent and should be found in any professional survey. What may be less apparent in the 33 is deck and cabintop delamination—separation of the laminate from the balsa core.

Similarly there are reports of gelcoat problems (crazing, voids, etc). And, as with any deck-stepped mast the step and under-deck support system should be carefully checked. So too should the rudder and its hangings.

In the era in which the 33 was built, strength was often obtained by using heavy fiberglass scan’tlings in place of good construction engineering, one result of which is sloppy glasswork although not necessarily a weaker hull structure.

With a boat of the type of the 33, upgrading and refurbishing seems a worthwhile investment. Performance can be markedly improved with slab reefing, a roller traveler, good sails, etc. The looks of the boat can be dramatically enhanced with well finished exterior wood trim and refinished gelcoat surfaces. Thus, in considering used 33s, look for those in which past owners have worked—and spent—to make their boats better. The alternative is to look for a sound but unimproved model at the right price and plan to invest in bettering her. Finding the right one may take time and effort, but they do come on the market. As one owner put it, “Look for three years and close the deal in three minutes if you find her.”

Conclusions

Given the price on the used boat market of similar “traditional” boats such as Cape Dories, Sea Sprites, and Albergs, the Luders 33 strikes us as a most promising alternative. The 33 sails better than most of her full keel/short waterline kin, is built to last as long, and should represent good equity. In return, the 33 may need some refurbishing, perhaps a new diesel engine if not already retrofitted, but the result is a superb boat at a price that should be well below that of other production boats of her type.

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• Sailboat Guide

1971 Luders Allied 33

• Description

Seller's Description

Current owner has spared no expense and cut no corners on updating this boat and getting her ready for open Ocean Sailing, Additional pictures and full description coming soon..

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

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luders 33 for sale

1969 Luders 33

$5,000 US General condition and any additional information 33 Classic Luders 33 Sloop Panache hull 82. Solid...

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Cheoy Lee Luders 36

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This is not your father's sail boat. This Sea Sprite was originally built in 1984 by C. E. Ryder out of Bristol, RI, and designed by Bill Luders . Panache was remover from service and underwent a professional 3 year keel up restoration.She was returned to service in 2007. Since that time she has been upgraded every year and has the latest in navigation and creature comforts. Panache has been featured twice on PBS TV and has also been featured in two national sailing magazines. If you are looking for a full keel classic sailing vessel that backs like a dream with a bow thruster, and has the latest in everything nautical, you will not find one in the world better than Panache. Check out the following video: 55 gallons water, 65 gallon custom made stainless steel holding tank, bow thruster, Air conditioning, 2 heaters, custom made teak helm, refrigerator/freezer, electric head, windlass, hydraulic autopilot, with navigation and radar equipment. Many more features, must be seen to appreciate the craftsmanship that went into this very seaworthy blue water vessel.

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Anyone have first-hand (or second, or third.....) knowledge of the Allied Luders 33? I am considering stepping up from my wonderful Bristol 29 to something with room enough for the family. We sail on the Chesapeake mostly, but look forward to some blue water sailing soon. Perhaps to Maine.  

I don't think you're going to see much difference in interior volume on the Luders (Allied or Cheoy Lee?). The Luders 33 is an early 60s CCA design; narrow and lots of overhang, which doesn't translate well into interior space.  

And IIRC, the Bristol 29 is probably a bit better in terms of seaworthiness and comfort ratios and all that.  

I went on-board the Luders yesterday. Not a bad boat, but I agree with your cautions. For purity of line and sea-kindliness I don't know that I can much improve on my B29. How about the larger Bristols? Do they have the same strengths as the B29? I understand the difference between the first and second gen boats, and steer away from 29.9 and its fellows.  

Have you thought about a Bristol 32?  

The third generation boats like the 31.5, 35.5 and 38.5 were excellent boats in terms of build quality, seaworthiness and sailing ability, especiallyas compared to the earlier designs (with the 31.5 being my least favorite of that series.) I am a very big fan of the Bristol 34 which was a Halsey Herreshoff design and represented a big leap in build quality, seaworthiness and sailing ability over the earlier Bristol 32's. They are comparatively rare boats but I was aboard a nice example last year. I have a fair amount of time on and racing against Luder 33's and on Bristol 32's for that matter. While I like the Luders 33 better than the Bristol 32, neither are especially good boats for the Chesapeake (really poor light air ability and really poor behavior in a chop) especially as compared to the Bristol 34. I think that you would be disappointed in both the Luders 33 and Bristol 32 as compared to your Bristol 29. Respectfully, Jeff  

I have been looking at both the Bristol 32 and 34 recently. The problem with the 34 seems to be to find one old enough to fit my budget. While there are a number of the 32's in the early generation, I have seen no 34's. When were they built?  

If I remember correctly the Bristol 33 and 34 (the 34 was an improved version of the 33) were built from 1970 through 1976  

Bardo said: I went on-board the Luders yesterday. Not a bad boat, but I agree with your cautions. For purity of line and sea-kindliness I don't know that I can much improve on my B29. How about the larger Bristols? Do they have the same strengths as the B29? I understand the difference between the first and second gen boats, and steer away from 29.9 and its fellows. Click to expand...

TSteele65 said: Have you thought about a Bristol 32? Click to expand...

I'm in LOVE: YachtWorld.com Boats and Yachts for Sale  

TSteele65 said: I'm in LOVE: YachtWorld.com Boats and Yachts for Sale Click to expand...

Get a survey... for the few spots the broker knows about, there are a dozen more hiding.  

Don't let soft spots scare you....you can get a lot of sailing in before various body parts start falling through the deck (trust me, I know). Then it is just a simple matter of removing the deck skin, replacing the core material and re-applying the skin and finishing off the non-skid. What the hell else are you going to do in off season?  

There is a Bristol 34 for sale in Oriental, North Carolina at Triton Yachts. Look it up on Yachtworld. Price is a bit high, but they're like that in Oriental. I bet she will go for quite a bit less.  

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