islander 24 sailboat

Bahama 24 islander

The bahama 24 islander is a 24.0ft masthead sloop designed by j. h. mcglasson and built in fiberglass by islander / tradewind yachts between 1964 and 1970., 500 units have been built..

The Bahama 24 islander is a moderate weight sailboat which is a reasonably good performer. It is very stable / stiff and has a good righting capability if capsized. It is best suited as a day-boat.

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Islander 24

The Islander 24 sailboat is a popular recreational sailboat that was first introduced in the 1960s. It is a small and affordable vessel, making it a great option for novice sailors or those on a budget. Despite its compact size, the Islander 24 has a spacious interior that can comfortably accommodate up to four people. The boat features a simple and efficient layout that includes a forward V-berth, a convertible dinette, and a quarter berth aft.

The Islander 24 has a moderate fin keel and a spade rudder, which provides good stability and maneuverability. The boat has a masthead sloop rig, with a tall mast and a relatively large sail area, making it a fast and fun boat to sail. The Islander 24 is also well-known for its durability and sturdiness, with many boats still in use today despite being over 50 years old. Overall, the Islander 24 is a classic sailboat that offers a great balance of affordability, comfort, and performance for recreational sailors.

LOA: 24.00 ft LWL: 20.00 ft Beam: 7.83 ft Draft: 3.42 ft Displacement: 3300.00 lbs Ballast: 1700.00 lbs Hull type: Modified Full Keel Hull construction: FG Rigging type: Masthead Sloop

Islander 24 for sale in the last 12 months

Looks like this is a boat rarely offered for sale - we could not find any listings in the last 12 months. Please come back and check at a later time or add this boat to your list to be notified if one is available for purchase.

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Islander Bahama 24' as first boat?

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I am thinking of getting the Islander Bahama 24 listed locally in my area on Craigslist as my first boat. Any opinions or things I ought to look for when I have a look at her? The link is below. Thanks for any tips! http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/boa/283964123.html  

Not a bad looking starter boat - you might look around at some comparable boats like Tanzer, Cal or Catalina to get a feel for what to expect for what money..  

sailingfool said: Not a bad looking starter boat - you might look around at some comparable boats like Tanzer, Cal or Catalina to get a feel for what to expect for what money.. Click to expand...

Never sailed one - they were very popular - Google the History of Columbia Yachts - try Columbia Yacht Owners - there is something there about how Islanders came to be, I believe. Buy Don Casey's book called "Inspecting the Aging Sailboat" Use that as a guide check the boat out. Don't worry too much about cosmetics and then go out and start sailing.  

yes I have my S.O.'s family ownes an I.B 24 flush deck, lots of room in cabin (for a 24 footer...) great sailing qualities. Initially tender but locks in at around 15-18 degrees of heel and does not move. The spoon bow softens the ride in a chop. BUT, it's a slow boat, and takes a long time to tack her and get back up to speed. They are nice boats to pocket cruise on (3 1/2 ft draft) Inboard or outboard?? Unless the inboard was replaced (it was a Palmer 1 cylander gas engine designed in the 40's) the outboard is more reliable...although is does not retract out of the water.  

I looked at an Islander 24 when I was shopping around for my first boat about a year and a half ago. I also found it on craigslist for $1k and it looked nice in the photos, but in person it was a mess and I didn't like the layout/design. It has a nice size cockpit, but in my opinion the interior was very cramped. It had low headroom (I'm 6'), I don't think there was a rear berth beneath the cockpit, and I just didn't like the layout. One reason I think there is less interior space is because the Islander has the well for the outboard. It hides the outboard and gives the boat a clean look, but the outboard is always in the water and then that also pushes the cockpit about 2' forward, taking away from the interior. A couple months later I came across a 1982 Catalina 25 which became mine two weeks later. I really like the design of the C-25. It's only 1' longer, but has so much more usable interior space. My C-25 has a pop top which gives over 6' of headroom and has a nice dinette interior layout. I would highly recommend looking at Catalina 25s. The Catalinas are also very popular, have a great owners association, and you can easily buy replacement parts. There are so many boats out there to choose from. Have fun looking around, checking them out in person to see what you really like.  

JustinC25 said: I looked at an Islander 24 when I was shopping around for my first boat about a year and a half ago. I also found it on craigslist for $1k and it looked nice in the photos, but in person it was a mess and I didn't like the layout/design. It has a nice size cockpit, but in my opinion the interior was very cramped. It had low headroom (I'm 6'), I don't think there was a rear berth beneath the cockpit, and I just didn't like the layout. One reason I think there is less interior space is because the Islander has the well for the outboard. It hides the outboard and gives the boat a clean look, but the outboard is always in the water and then that also pushes the cockpit about 2' forward, taking away from the interior. A couple months later I came across a 1982 Catalina 25 which became mine two weeks later. I really like the design of the C-25. It's only 1' longer, but has so much more usable interior space. My C-25 has a pop top which gives over 6' of headroom and has a nice dinette interior layout. I would highly recommend looking at Catalina 25s. The Catalinas are also very popular, have a great owners association, and you can easily buy replacement parts. There are so many boats out there to choose from. Have fun looking around, checking them out in person to see what you really like. Click to expand...

gee! i have a contender almost identical to the islander24. yeah the cabin room is a little to be desired, but this is a boat that sailed to Hawaii from the west coast. i wouldn't wanna try that in one of those egg shell thin catalina's. on heavy days, you'll be going out when they're coming in. believe me, that islander is as hard a boat as you could have as a first vessel. she'll do you well. scott  

I second the comment about the Cat 25s. We sailed one out out of Island Sailing Club (Tomahawk Island, in Portland) for weekend cruising, and it was a fun boat. In fact, I think the V berth was more comfortable than a Cat 27. I also may be biased, but I'd go for a Cal over an Islander, and maybe over a Cat, because of their heavier build quality and possibly "easier to work on" characteristics. Here's two from the Portland Craigslist: 1973 27 ft. CAL Sailboat - 27 - Proven Racing Sloop - Offers? Great Cal Jensen 2-24 24 ft. Racing / Cruising Sailboat There was also a Cal 34 listed on Portland Craigslist lately-- they are also not bad boats (to work on, sail, upgrade for cruising to a degree). After you buy, check out McCuddy's for a slip. (Disclaimer: I have a Cal 20 there...) Let us know what happens-- and if you bought the Islander, show us some pics.  

I am about to buy an islander 24' as an upgrade from my current Balboa 22' ... I figure I can sell one during the summer for more money than I paid. I also like the idea of a full, glassed in keel. (Hawaii anyone?)  

I-24 Tager, Just noticed the I-24 back up on Craigslist. This your boat? Islander Bahama 24 Scott  

She was my boat! I loved her well, and only got $800 for her. Oh well she was an alright boat. I am much happier with my Haida 26. Standing headroom is a necessity.  

Hi, my name is Ben. I recently bought a 1965 Islander Bahama 24. I have been going over the boat and fixing and learning about it. Inside of the boat, all the way in the back, underneath the engine well, I have noticed a small leak coming from a hole at the very bottom. The hole looks like it is plugged with a wooden plug that appears to be rotting. Do you know what that hole is for? I would like to pull out the wooden plug and replace it with a rubber expansion plug but I do not want to sink the boat. This is my first boat so I am in the learning mode.  

Ben, you might get more replies to your inquiry as a new thread out on the Gear & Maintenance forum.  

Hello. Although this is an old thread I thought I would add to it in case someone else contemplating an Islander 24 finds this. I was gifted a 1969 Islander 24 'Bahama' which is the flush deck version and sailed it for almost 12 years. We sailed it on the west coast of British Columbia and later moved it to Kootenay Lake in the interior of the province. I sold it 7 years ago and it is still churning out the miles! BUILD QUALITY: The boat is very ruggedly built with almost 4" of glass at the bow and two+ inches at the turn of the keel. The keel is encapsulated lead so no worries about the keel/hull join or keel bolts. My kids ran that boat into more than one pile or wharf and it sustained nothing more than scratches to the paint. We once ran hard aground on rocks and pounded for an hour while waiting for the tide to lift us and sustained minor damage to the glass on the bottom of the keel but otherwise the boat was fine. SAILING: This boat needs wind to move. We were happiest in 15-20 knots with a 130 Genoa and full main. With the full keel the boat doesn't point very well and being relatively slow you likely won't win many races against lighter displacement, fin keel 24 footers. Having said that, the handicap is favorable and in regattas where the wind was up and we sailed well we often finished near the top of the pack on corrected times. As someone else noted, she is a bit tender but locks in at around 15 degrees and is really hard to knock off her feet. We once hove-to in 50+ knots and 8-10 waves and did fine. INTERIOR: Not a lot of room to maneuver but the V-Berth is bigger than on my 30' C&C. The head arrangement (forward under a v-berth cutout) leaves a bit to be desired - but what 24' boat doesn't? We cruised for weeks with a family of four and could carry enough provisions for a week. I built storage bins into the port aft quarter for things that didn't require regular access. The cabin table dropped down to form one berth on port and there was a full length berth to starboard that extended under the cockpit. The cabin top is a pop-up which coupled with a boom tarp created a lot more headspace and opened up the cabin to light/air on hot days. One major modification I made was to glass in the hull at the outboard motor-well in the aft lazarette and mount a 9.9 on the stern. Two advantages - I could raise the motor so that it didn't drag and the lazarette became a more substantial and dry storage area. Disadvantage was that motoring in anything more than 3' waves would cause the outboard prop to leave the water at the top of the wave. THINGS TO LOOK OUT FOR: Besides the usual old boat things to watch for..... The rib that supports the deck stepped mast is solid glass but when we bought our boat it had a noticeable sag under the mast and cracks in the rib. I repaired that and built a new plate that extended two feet out on either side of the original mast step to better distribute the load. The chainplates are bedded onto a plywood bulkhead. If any water has gotten past the deck onto that join it is possible there may be some rot around the chainplate. The cockpit drain hose was coupled directly to a bedded thru-hull that had no seacock. Very unsafe because if the hose failed or uncoupled there was no was to stop water ingress. The forward deck tended to flex under my 210 lbs so I beefed it up by glassing in a couple of ribs. All in all the boat served us very well with very low cost of maintenance. We safely sailed it in conditions good and very bad and never once worried about the boat. Hope this helps someone.  

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VESSEL REVIEW | Sinichka – Electric commuter boats designed for Russia’s Moskva River

A series of three new electric monohull commuter ferries have already begun operational sailings on the Moskva River in the Russian capital Moscow.

Built by Russian shipyard Emperium, sister vessels Sinichka , Filka , and Presnya – all named after rivers in Moscow – are being operated by the Moscow Department of Transport and Road Infrastructure Development (Moscow Deptrans). They are the first units of a planned fleet of 20 vessels that will serve the capital city and other nearby communities. The new ferry system will be the water transport system to be operated on the Moskva River in 16 years.

Each vessel has a welded aluminium hull, an LOA of 21 metres, a beam of 6.2 metres, a draught of only 1.4 metres, a displacement of 40 tonnes, and capacity for 80 passengers plus two crewmembers. Seating is available for 42 passengers on each ferry, and the main cabins are also fitted with USB charging ports, wifi connectivity, tables, toilets, and space for bicycles and scooters. The cabin layout can be rearranged to allow the operator to adjust the distances between the seats and to install armrests of varying widths.

An open upper deck is also accessible to passengers and is the only area on each ferry where smoking is allowed.

The ferries are all of modular construction with each ferry’s wheelhouse, main cabin, and other structural elements being built as complete, separate components. This enables the ferries to be easily dismantled for transport to anywhere in Russia by rail and then quickly re-assembled within seven days.

The ferries are also ice-capable. Recently completed operational trials on the Moskva showed that the vessels can also easily navigate under mild winter conditions with broken surface ice, though year-round operations are planned for the entire fleet.

The ferries are each fitted with 500kWh lithium iron phosphate battery packs that supply power to two 134kW motors. This configuration can deliver a maximum speed of 11.8 knots, a cruising speed of just under 10 knots, and a range of 150 kilometres.

Emperium said the transfer of rotation of electric motors to the propeller is carried out by direct drive. As a propulsion installation, a pulling rotary propeller-steering column with double screws is used. The installation of double pulling screws, with similar power, allows an operator to increase the efficiency of the propulsion system to deliver a slightly higher speed or to reduce energy consumption. This arrangement also provides the ferries with enhanced manoeuvrability necessary for navigating in close quarters.

The batteries themselves have projected service lives of 10 to 12 years and are fitted with safety features such as built-in fire extinguishers and gas vents. Quick-disconnect features allow the batteries to be easily removed for replacement or maintenance.

Some of our readers have expressed disquiet at our publication of reviews and articles describing new vessels from Russia. We at Baird Maritime can understand and sympathise with those views. However, despite the behaviour of the country’s leaders, we believe that the maritime world needs to learn of the latest developments in vessel design and construction there.

Click here to read other news stories, features, opinion articles, and vessel reviews as part of this month’s Passenger Vessel Week.

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Tags: Emperium Filka Moscow Moscow Department of Transport and Road Infrastructure Development Moskva River Presnya Russia Sinichka WBW newbuild

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• Sailboat Guide

1960 Islander 24

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Seller's Description

1960 Islander,hull nmbr 1 I believe. Has a new barely broke in Mercury 5hp long shaft with extended warranty.

Equipment: 2 head sails 1 100% and a storm jib. 2 extra sails from a Hunter 27 that could be cut to fit at sail loft,1 is brand new. Mercury 5hp,2 anchors with chain. Extra parts,varnish,paint and kiwi grip. Lowered to bottom dollar price!

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

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