Victoria 18

The victoria 18 is a 18.5ft fractional sloop designed by g. william mcvay and built in fiberglass by victoria yachts co. between 1977 and 1983., 600 units have been built..

The Victoria 18 is a moderate weight sailboat which is a good performer. It is very stable / stiff and has a low righting capability if capsized. It is best suited as a day-boat.

Victoria 18 for sale elsewhere on the web:

victoria 18 sailboat data

Main features

Model Victoria 18
Length 18.50 ft
Beam 5.50 ft
Draft 2 ft
Country United states (North America)
Estimated price $ 0 ??

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victoria 18 sailboat data

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Sail area / displ. 19.02
Ballast / displ. 45.83 %
Displ. / length 253.66
Comfort ratio 13.16
Capsize 2.07
Hull type Monohull long keel
Construction Fiberglass
Waterline length 12.83 ft
Maximum draft 2 ft
Displacement 1200 lbs
Ballast 550 lbs
Hull speed 4.80 knots

victoria 18 sailboat data

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Rigging Fractional Sloop
Sail area (100%) 134 sq.ft
Air draft 0 ft ??
Sail area fore 46.75 sq.ft
Sail area main 90 sq.ft
I 17 ft
J 5.50 ft
P 20 ft
E 9 ft
Nb engines 1
Total power 0 HP
Fuel capacity 0 gals

Accommodations

Water capacity 0 gals
Headroom 0 ft
Nb of cabins 0
Nb of berths 0
Nb heads 0

Builder data

Builder Victoria Yachts Co.
Designer G. William McVay
First built 1977
Last built 1983
Number built 600

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victoria 18 sailboat data

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Review of Victoria 18

Basic specs..

The hull is made of fibreglass. Generally, a hull made of fibreglass requires only a minimum of maintenance during the sailing season. And outside the sailing season, just bottom cleaning and perhaps anti-fouling painting once a year - a few hours of work, that's all.

The boat equipped with a fractional rig. A fractional rig has smaller headsails which make tacking easier, which is an advantage for cruisers and racers, of course. The downside is that having the wind from behind often requires a genaker or a spinnaker for optimal speed.

The Victoria 18 is equipped with a long keel. A full keel provide a better directional stability than a similar boat with a fin keel; on the other hand, better directional stability means also that the boat is more difficult to handle in a harbour with less space.

The boat can enter even shallow marinas as the draft is just about 0.61 - 0.71 meter (2.00 - 2.30 ft) dependent on the load. See immersion rate below.

Sailing characteristics

This section covers widely used rules of thumb to describe the sailing characteristics. Please note that even though the calculations are correct, the interpretation of the results might not be valid for extreme boats.

What is Capsize Screening Formula (CSF)?

The capsize screening value for Victoria 18 is 2.05, indicating that this boat would not be accepted to participate in ocean races.

What is Theoretical Maximum Hull Speed?

The theoretical maximal speed of a displacement boat of this length is 4.8 knots. The term "Theoretical Maximum Hull Speed" is widely used even though a boat can sail faster. The term shall be interpreted as above the theoretical speed a great additional power is necessary for a small gain in speed.

The immersion rate is defined as the weight required to sink the boat a certain level. The immersion rate for Victoria 18 is about 44 kg/cm, alternatively 246 lbs/inch. Meaning: if you load 44 kg cargo on the boat then it will sink 1 cm. Alternatively, if you load 246 lbs cargo on the boat it will sink 1 inch.

Sailing statistics

This section is statistical comparison with similar boats of the same category. The basis of the following statistical computations is our unique database with more than 26,000 different boat types and 350,000 data points.

What is Motion Comfort Ratio (MCR)?

What is L/B (Length Beam Ratio)?

What is a Ballast Ratio?

What is Displacement Length Ratio?

What is SA/D (Sail Area Displacement ratio)?

Maintenance

When buying anti-fouling bottom paint, it's nice to know how much to buy. The surface of the wet bottom is about 4m 2 (43 ft 2 ). Based on this, your favourite maritime shop can tell you the quantity you need.

Are your sails worn out? You might find your next sail here: Sails for Sale

If you need to renew parts of your running rig and is not quite sure of the dimensions, you may find the estimates computed below useful.

UsageLengthDiameter
Mainsail halyard 16.6 m(54.3 feet)6 mm(1/4 inch)
Jib/genoa halyard16.6 m(54.3 feet)6 mm(1/4 inch)
Spinnaker halyard16.6 m(54.3 feet)6 mm(1/4 inch)
Jib sheet 5.6 m(18.5 feet)8 mm(5/16 inch)
Genoa sheet5.6 m(18.5 feet)8 mm(5/16 inch)
Mainsheet 14.1 m(46.3 feet)8 mm(5/16 inch)
Spinnaker sheet12.4 m(40.7 feet)8 mm(5/16 inch)
Cunningham2.7 m(9.0 feet)6 mm(1/4 inch)
Kickingstrap5.5 m(18.0 feet)6 mm(1/4 inch)
Clew-outhaul5.5 m(18.0 feet)6 mm(1/4 inch)

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  • Sailboat Guide

Victoria 18

Victoria 18 is a 18 ′ 6 ″ / 5.6 m monohull sailboat designed by G. William McVay and built by Victoria Yachts Co. between 1977 and 1983.

Drawing of Victoria 18

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

  • SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
  • D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

  • D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
  • LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

  • D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
  • LOA: Length overall in feet
  • Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

Derived from the earlier MINUET. Two versions were built; A sloop and a very limited edition cutter with a bowsprit. The number built listed is only a rough approximation. Just before the factory closed, a VICTORIA 17 was introduced, a shortened version of the 18 with an outboard rudder. It is thought that they exist in very small numbers.

Victoria Yachts was a company founded by the designers son, Bill McVay. The location was: 203 Benson Junction Road DeBarry, Florida 32713 USA

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VICTORIA 18 Detailed Review

https://images.harbormoor.com/originals/bb4c7f7b-8d7d-4bcd-8986-89fc88e3ac09

If you are a boat enthusiast looking to get more information on specs, built, make, etc. of different boats, then here is a complete review of VICTORIA 18. Built by Victoria Yachts Co. and designed by G. William McVay, the boat was first built in 1977. It has a hull type of Long Keel and LOA is 5.64. Its sail area/displacement ratio 19.02. Its auxiliary power tank, manufactured by undefined, runs on undefined.

VICTORIA 18 has retained its value as a result of superior building, a solid reputation, and a devoted owner base. Read on to find out more about VICTORIA 18 and decide if it is a fit for your boating needs.

Boat Information

Boat specifications, sail boat calculation, rig and sail specs, contributions, who designed the victoria 18.

VICTORIA 18 was designed by G. William McVay.

Who builds VICTORIA 18?

VICTORIA 18 is built by Victoria Yachts Co..

When was VICTORIA 18 first built?

VICTORIA 18 was first built in 1977.

How long is VICTORIA 18?

VICTORIA 18 is 3.91 m in length.

What is mast height on VICTORIA 18?

VICTORIA 18 has a mast height of 6.1 m.

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Victoria 18 - Sailboat Data, Parts & Rigging

Victoria 18 - Mainsail Covers

Sailboat data, rig dimensions and recommended sail areas for Victoria 18 sailboat. Tech info about rigging, halyards, sheets, mainsail covers and more.

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Victoria Eighteen Sailboat

Discussion in ' Sailboats ' started by Harold Anderson , Aug 26, 2011 .

Harold Anderson

Harold Anderson Junior Member

Looking for owners of Victoria Eighteen Sailboats. Want to discuss modifications. Please email me at [email protected] Thanks Harold  

Doug Lord

Doug Lord Flight Ready

Victoria 18 Harold, I'm not an owner but I am curious about what mods you had in mind?  

PAR

PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

I'm very familiar with the Victory 18, having repaired and restored a few. So, you need rudder repairs too . . .  
I am looking to reduce weather helm. It's bad! Boat wants to round up all the time and I am constantly using pressure to control the rudder with the tiller. Have tried changing mast rake with very little improvement if any. Moved gear all over the boat also with no effect. Thought of mabey a bow sprit. I guess they built a couple of cutter rigged victoria eighteens supposedly to cope with the weatherhelm. What about a ketch rig? A small mizzen mabey? Also the sleeping arrangements are horrible. I think they were designed for midget midgets! No harm intended. The accomodations are port and starboard on the sides. Please reply if you have ideas about the weatherhelm. I am a novice and don't know where to go from here. I don't want to be fighting the tiller the entire trip though thats for sure. Thanks Harold  

CutOnce

CutOnce Previous Member

Harold Anderson said: ↑ I am looking to reduce weather helm. It's bad! Boat wants to round up all the time and I am constantly using pressure to control the rudder with the tiller. Have tried changing mast rake with very little improvement if any. Moved gear all over the boat also with no effect. Thought of mabey a bow sprit. I guess they built a couple of cutter rigged victoria eighteens supposedly to cope with the weatherhelm. What about a ketch rig? A small mizzen mabey? Also the sleeping arrangements are horrible. I think they were designed for midget midgets! No harm intended. The accomodations are port and starboard on the sides. Please reply if you have ideas about the weatherhelm. I am a novice and don't know where to go from here. I don't want to be fighting the tiller the entire trip though thats for sure. Thanks Harold Click to expand...
Harold, you inexperience as a sailor is very likely the cause of the weather helm sensation you are feeling. This isn't a personal dig at you, but an observation from many that have sailed one with limited experience. The Vic 18 wants to sail on her hear, not flat, which is one of the big problems most have with her, they tend to over sheet the old gal, trying in vain to right her, which just makes her ***** and moan, offering a lot of helm pressure to remind you to ease the sheets. Her preferred angle of heel is 12 degrees or more, depending on wind strength. The rudder on this boat was a source of difficulty and not as well shaped as it could be. Most make modifications. The factory made a shorter version called the Victoria 17, but with a transom hung rudder, which solved the issue. The cutter rig was an option, but very few were actually built (3 or 4) and it wasn't to address a weather helm issue, but to satisfy a perceived client demand. The sloop is the better sailor by far. The rudder was redesigned a few times and reports of the later models are that they work better (what year is yours?). There was once a web site for them and a discussion forum, but I don't know if it's still active. They made 300 or 400 of these boats and there are many in my area, most can be had for next to nothing. As a keel boat goes they get killed by more modern canoe bodies and being the shoal draft version of a Minuet 18, it lacked ability to windward too. The rudder needs more area, which is usually tacked on aft. Since this is a part that often needs to be rebuilt, I've modified everyone I've worked on with good results. I added about 20% more area to the trailing edge and reshaped it for better flow.  
Paul, here is the website: http://www.victoriayachts.com/vicsite/index.html  

strattm

strattm New Member

PAR said: ↑ Harold, you inexperience as a sailor is very likely the cause of the weather helm sensation you are feeling. This isn't a personal dig at you, but an observation from many that have sailed one with limited experience. The Vic 18 wants to sail on her hear, not flat, which is one of the big problems most have with her, they tend to over sheet the old gal, trying in vain to right her, which just makes her ***** and moan, offering a lot of helm pressure to remind you to ease the sheets. Her preferred angle of heel is 12 degrees or more, depending on wind strength. The rudder on this boat was a source of difficulty and not as well shaped as it could be. Most make modifications. The factory made a shorter version called the Victoria 17, but with a transom hung rudder, which solved the issue. The cutter rig was an option, but very few were actually built (3 or 4) and it wasn't to address a weather helm issue, but to satisfy a perceived client demand. The sloop is the better sailor by far. The rudder was redesigned a few times and reports of the later models are that they work better (what year is yours?). There was once a web site for them and a discussion forum, but I don't know if it's still active. They made 300 or 400 of these boats and there are many in my area, most can be had for next to nothing. As a keel boat goes they get killed by more modern canoe bodies and being the shoal draft version of a Minuet 18, it lacked ability to windward too. The rudder needs more area, which is usually tacked on aft. Since this is a part that often needs to be rebuilt, I've modified everyone I've worked on with good results. I added about 20% more area to the trailing edge and reshaped it for better flow. Click to expand...
Harold Anderson said: ↑ Looking for owners of Victoria Eighteen Sailboats. Want to discuss modifications. Please email me at [email protected] Thanks Harold Click to expand...
Hi: I have acquired a Victoria 18 and it is missing a pin that holds the bottom of the rudder to the hull. Any info on what that pin looks like and where to get one? Mike, Thanks Harold Anderson said: ↑ I am looking to reduce weather helm. It's bad! Boat wants to round up all the time and I am constantly using pressure to control the rudder with the tiller. Have tried changing mast rake with very little improvement if any. Moved gear all over the boat also with no effect. Thought of mabey a bow sprit. I guess they built a couple of cutter rigged victoria eighteens supposedly to cope with the weatherhelm. What about a ketch rig? A small mizzen mabey? Also the sleeping arrangements are horrible. I think they were designed for midget midgets! No harm intended. The accomodations are port and starboard on the sides. Please reply if you have ideas about the weatherhelm. I am a novice and don't know where to go from here. I don't want to be fighting the tiller the entire trip though thats for sure. Thanks Harold Click to expand...
Sorry to tell you that Paul Riccelli passed away. RIP Mr. Paul [PAR] Riccelli https://www.boatdesign.net/threads/rip-mr-paul-par-riccelli.60437/ You may find some contact information here: VICTORIA 18 sailboat specifications and details on sailboatdata.com http://sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_id=28  

Hank Abt

Hank Abt New Member

Sorry to hear about Mr. Riccelli. Great loss. His designs were interesting. Can the riverboat series plans still be purchased?  

Vic18Larry

Vic18Larry New Member

I also am seeking rudder repair info and pictures/videos as I just acquired a Victoria 18 in need of saving. Larry Toole  

Donald P

Donald P New Member

Good morning Larry and all... I was researching the Skimmer this morning and found a few posts her that i thought I would offer some possible input on. It sounds like Paul was an avid sailor and designer with lots of wonderful years spent about salty projects, well, good for him! It's a dream for most of us I'm sure to aspire to reach his level of knowledge and experience level with people and all things nautical! "Here here" to Paul and his love of boats! The Vic 18... I bought this boat somewhere in '97 or maybe 2000... I don't remember exactly. These things sort of get lost once you have been involved so long that you cant remember what it was like to be without something water based like this in your life. But I digress. So the two major issues confronting owners of the Vic 18 are and have been generally thru-hulls and Rudders. That's a pretty good record considering all the stresses these boats take on over their sailing lives, not to mention those that get abandoned, fill with water, or come off their trailers from unexpected situations. All of that in mind, the Victoria has been a solid and extremely safe boat to its owners. I have seen nothing in my 20+ years of sailing, talking, meeting, sharing and communication about the Victoria that points to anyone loosing a Vic due to capsizing, hard sailing, weather extremes or anything other than storms or other natural disasters. Neither have i heard of anyone being hurt or seriously injured due to any issue with these boats. Simply put, they are safe, semi-efficient, solid basic performing sailboats that will give you the thrill of 12 to 28 degrees of heel in the right conditions within an excellent safety envelope. Even for beginners... she is forgiving - mostly due to her weather helm, always rounding up quickly, unless coaxed not to. As far as the Rudder Pin.. I will get the specs, but I believe its simply a basic brass 5/16th or so SAE 3.5" bolt, screwed into the base of the receiver through the rudder, with a removable Loctite (Blue - NOT red). Its been a while... but for some reason I believe we cut the hex heads off of this bolt afterwards, as the assembly was actually held in place and secured at the top of the rudder shaft. Right now I don't know the exact reason for cutting the head off. I think maybe leaving the head on would allow the pin to worry lose as the rudder surface near the bolt head turned on the non rotating bolt head with enough friction over time to allow the bolt to worry free. This is probably not much to worry about for a a dry docked Vic, but is something to be concerned about when a Vic is at a mooring or docked for extended periods. It goes without saying that whenever I sail the Vic and hit 15 to 25 or more degree heel, I get gasps from those in other boats in close proximity, and even from folks on shore "uh oh !! Whoa !! look at that! Shes going over!" only to be followed by "wow" as she continues pushing through the water without stopping, reaching for the next tack. The summer before last I got hit with a very strong gust with myself and another person on the Vic. I was being followed by someone on another boat who witnessed exactly what happened and relayed that to me afterwards. I am not one to push the Vic in a steep heel during a stiff breeze, that basically does the same thing as putting your foot on the accelerator and the brake at the same time while driving. Lots of energy directed into not much movement but lots of stress on the equipment. So the boat heeled, and then kept going as I pulled on the rudder to maintain course through the gust, while attempting to let out the main sheet at the same time. My timing was off and the main sheet slipped out of my hand as the boat continued to roll and I reached out for balance on the starboard side standing rigging. The Vic's bottom paint clearly visible now out of the water to such a degree that the boat almost hit what felt like 40 but was probably more like 30 or 32 degrees or more. I remember standing on the port coaming as if it were the cockpit floor. I could see the bottom of the boom in front of me swinging down toward the water, and it was reported that almost the entire rudder was out of the water (from what the boat following us could see). I did not however feel the rudder go slack, so I think that report was more of an "oh my god shes going over" though in reality it wasn't there. In any case water spilled over the coaming and into the cockpit for a split second as the displacement wave turned back on itself and entered the boat after its initial push away. The lead shoal keel took over at this point of course, without any of my help. I was still hoping my grip on the starboard rigging (now directly behind my back), would hold me. I had no clue where my passenger was, although there was movement and clawing noises coming from beside me..!!!! The boat slowly creaked back into the norm, first to 28, 25, 20, then rocked back into a standard 12 to 15 degree heel. I would bet that is the furthest any Vic has ever gone over. And although i'm not a master at sailing, this single experience has given me the ability to both feel safe, push this little boat further than the average person might attempt simply because they do not know its maximum ability to not roll, and maintain a safety margin to not get back there again in an emergency. That rudder was working hard no doubt. I haven't calculated the stress placed on that few square feet (if that) in that kind of a situation, but it has to be up there for a design load. So in that, I am wondering if adding even more surface area to the rudder might create a moment (twisting action) about the rudder shaft, that would overcome the basic design of the rudder to cause damage to the wings (internal stainless bar stock supports (I think 2), welded to the shaft aft to support the stresses of the rudder under load). It all has to do with the sizing, location, and number of those wings and whether they are webbed together or free standing. I believe they are independent stainless bar stock welded to the shaft(with holes drill possibly for adherence of the fiberglass) and not connected together. Now... if those supports were not welded to the shafts center, but wrapped around the shaft and then welded forming an almost wing like surface for each of the supports. That would have given the design a much much stronger ability to counter the loads, for adding a larger surface area, and it could have supported the use of lighter stainless material because you would pick up strength due to the width of the supports being placed outwards around the diameter of the shaft and not simply welding to the center line of it. Man I hope this is not overkill!!! "Brevity is the soul of wit" William Shakespeare - Hamlet  
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David Oro

David Oro New Member

Hello Donald: I have read your comments above several times and I really appreciate all the insights. I have identified a Vic 18 and I have been considering buying it for a while but if possible I would really appreciate being able to speak with you on the phone or on this platform to ask more about the sailing performance. I am an experienced sailor and in fact I owned a Vic 17 several years back. I really enjoyed sailing her but indeed she always heels much more than most boats-- and I easily got used to it. I am no performance freak... I just want a boat for day sailing that I can take out under most normal wind conditions: 10 - 15 knots with ocasional gusts to 20 knots. Your comments would indicate that the Vic 18 is safe and as you said "semi efficient" which I took to mean that we would like to be able to point up to the wind more .... but it is reasonable. Is this correct? BTW the boat I am considering is a 1981 so she should have the rudder improvements that you mentioned for later year models. If possible, please call me at 786-253-4949 and/or zap me an email at [email protected] . I thank you very much in advance. Best regards, David  
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1982 Victoria 18

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1979 Victoria 18

  • Thread starter smclear
  • Start date May 7, 2012

Chief Petty Officer

  • May 7, 2012

I've been boating my entire life but I've always been a powerboater. I had a sunfish for a summer or two some 35 - 40 years ago but never really mastered it. Now at 53, I think I'd like to give sailing another go. A friend of mine has a 1979 Victoria 18 that he's looking to get rid of. Before going any further, and since I know nothing of sailboats, I'd like to ask a couple of questions. 1. Are those good sailboats? 2. Would they be too much boat for a "rookie" sailor? Looking for any thoughts or ideas. I'll be using this on a 3,200 acre inland lake.  

Re: 1979 Victoria 18 The Victoria is a pretty fair boat for lake sailors except it is not the best in light air. you might get disappointed or frustrated trying to learn in a boat that needs some skill when the wind is very light. if you have pretty consistent winds, you should be fine. the full length keel makes it a PITA to load on and of a trailer, IMHO.  

Re: 1979 Victoria 18 I was kind of worried about the keel and trailer deal. Being a total rookie, what should i look for in a first sailboat. I want something big enough for 4 people, but not so large or difficult to create the frustration you allude to. I am just now considering this and am in no hurry to do anything yet. Just starting the learning process.  

  • Feb 9, 2013

Re: 1979 Victoria 18 Hi Chief, I saw this thread and wanted to ask if you bought that Victoria 18. I was just curious because I bought one about the same time you were considering doing so. Like you, I had a small sailboat many years ago and last year decided to get back into sailing. After purchasing my Vic, I took basic lessons at a local club and that gave me the knowledge and confidence to venture out on my own. I find that trailering and launching is no big deal. You just have to back the trailer further into the water because of the keel. Of course you may already know that by now.  

  • Mar 1, 2013

Re: 1979 Victoria 18 No. I never moved on it. The boat actually belongs to my boss and is still available. He's not actively trying to sell it. He just doesn't use it and heard I was wanting to learn. Part of my problem is I really have no room for it at the family cottage. Not to mention, no place to store it over the winter. There are several sailing clubs on the lake that offer lessons so I think that is where I'll start.  

avenger79

Lieutenant Commander

Re: 1979 Victoria 18 i have been interested in learning to sail for years. last year I broke down and took ASA 101. first class was in a 23 foot boat in 30 knot winds. then I rented a few times and now just purchased my own 19 footer. a full keel boat would be better if left moored but not terrible for trailering. a 19 footer is considered by many to be a good starter. good to have a keel because they are more stable then centerboard. if you want much more info on sailing go to sailnet.com they have tons of info for newbies.  

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victoria 18

  • Add to quote

I recently purchased a vic 18 for my son, he has been learning to sail on a laser and does pretty good at it so hence the vic 18. Can anyone tell me of a source for how to rig this boat as well as the basic set up? I also think there are some hardware missing the my need to be replaced. Any help would be appreciated... Thanks  

victoria 18 sailboat data

I'm in a community sailing club that has a Vic 18. I'll probably be there this Sunday, if I can I'll take some pictures. It's a thrilling boat to sail, because it heels over very easily. You spend most of the sail over at about 30º, sometimes more!  

victoria 18 sailboat data

My dad and I owned a Victoria 18 when I was in high school. I should have some pics on my home computer that might be helpful, or if you can post pictures of your boat we can help that way. They're great little boats  

I have recenlty acquired a Vic 18. The rudder is hanging off the boat. I need someone who has a Vic 18 to tell me how the rudder is attached to the lower (and only) gudgeon. Something is missing. Can you look at yours and tell me how what is holding the rudder in place and the lower end? Thank you. Mike  

I recently acquired a Vic 18. Need to know how to reattach rudder since the bottom of it is not held in place on the gudgeon. It is just hanging there. The gudgeon appears to be ok. Something is missing, a pin or bolt that acts like a pintle on either the gudgeon or the rudder. Thank you. Mike  

Here is a photo. I stuck a screwdriver up through the gudgeon and into the end of the rod on the leading edge of the rudder and taped it to the keel to hold the rudder in place while I trailered it home. If I take the screwdriver out, the rod on the rudder just sits on the gudgeon and can easily slide off to one side or the other. It doesn't drop down very much because the rod extends all the way up through the deck to the tiller and becomes the tiller post. Thanks, Mike  

Attachments

Wall Surfboard Rust

Hello, Hope this finds you all well. I am looking for the owner's manual of a 1981 Victoria 18. Anyone have a copy? or can guideme in the direction of one? Thanks Fair Winds!  

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09-04-2010, 13:37  
Boat: Victoria 18-Halcyon
. I don't have the to connect to. Is this an option?

Does anyone know where I can view or a instruction manual on ?
09-04-2010, 13:42  
Boat: Radford 40
. the primary function of a topping is to support the boom when the sail is being raised or lowered. They also serve to prevent the leach of the sail from being stretched.

I do not know any , but I bet if you goggled toppiing lifts you would find answers!

Tom
09-04-2010, 13:45  
Boat: 1990 Ericson 32-200
09-04-2010, 13:47  
Boat: Gozzard 36
of this size to not have a "topping lift" since it can be stored down. With larger the weight of the boom can be high and the boom could chafe against the . How do you store your boat? While you could add a block to the top of the mast to run a line to the end of the boom so you might pull this line to raise the boom.

Not all are alike so that alone is not a reason add one but you could. Is there some reason you feel you need one?

09-04-2010, 13:48  
Boat: Research vessel for a university, retired now.
09-04-2010, 13:49  
Boat: Research vessel for a university, retired now.
09-04-2010, 13:56  
Boat: Cape Dory 33, 17' Boston Whaler
to the main in lieu of a topping lift since you'll rarely need to suspend the boom while the sail is actually on it.
09-04-2010, 14:10  
Boat: Rosa B
09-04-2010, 14:12  
Boat: Victoria 18-Halcyon
to rig the main sail. I had a friend rig the boat for me yrs ago and back to . did not pay attention.

At this point haven't sailed yet except with to get a feel for the way. not up.
09-04-2010, 14:24  
21. Unless you enjoy having a boom beat about the when rasing & lowering the main ALL sailboats benefit from a topping lift. Dead end it at the boom end, up to a block at the mast and back down the mast to a cleat. DO NOT HAVE THE CLEAT, IE, THE END THAT YOU USE TO RELEASE/SECURE IT AT THE BOOM END.
10-04-2010, 05:07  
Boat: (Cruiser Living On Dirt)


Rigging:
A. Mast and Boom are all extruded anodized . For best appearance a coat of wax should be applied to all surfaces and repeated on a semi-annual basis. This will keep the surfaces clean and make the of and road film much easier.

B. Shrouds. Two uppers - Two lowers - and forestay, are 8 / 8 - 1 x 19 dried . They require virtually no other than periodic wiping with a damp cloth.
While doing this, you should check terminals for any fraying as well as the shrouds themselves for kinks.

C. Turnbuckles - are also virtually free. They should be visually inspected for cracks and occasionally the threads should be lubricated lightly with WD-40 or a similar substance.

D. Spreaders - are free floating fore and aft. Vertically they should stand straight out or at a slightly upward angle from the mast.
The upper shrouds should be taped or covered at the spreaders with spreader boots to eliminate the possibility of chafing on the during tacks or while close hauled.

E. Rigging the Mast:
a. Attach all shrouds to the mast.
b. Lay the mast on the with the step forward on the bow pulpit. (A piece of line may be used at this point to hold the step to prevent the mast from rolling off the boat).
c. Extend all the turnbuckles to within approximately 1" of their fully extended position.
d. Separate the starboard upper and lower shrouds and drape them over the starboard side of the boat. Do the same for the port side shrouds and drape them over the port side.
e. Now attach the upper and lower turnbuckles to the Chain Plates making sure that the Upper turnbuckle goes in the AFT Hole of the and the lower turnbuckle is attached through the froward hole.

(IMPORTANT) All clevis pins should be installed from to to inboard. There are two primary reasons for doing this.

1. If the cotter pin should break for any reason, gravity will help hold the clevis pin in position.
2. If the cotter rings are placed , the will hook on them while the is luffing and rip them out.

This procedure should be followed through-out the rigging.
ALL COTTER RINGS AND PINS INBOARD.

f. Halyards - The Main should be run through the two nylon sheeves at the mast . Make sure the shackle is placed on the aft or slotted side of the mast. This halyard may now be secured tothe starboard cleat at the base of the mast. The Jib Halyard should be run through the block located on the forward face of the mast about 1/8th of the way down from the mast head. The shackle end of this halyard should be placed so as to be away from the mast. This halyard may now be atached to the cleat on the port side of the mast.
(NOTE yells to douse the Jib. you instinctively grab the port halyard. The gets hit in the head with the boom as the Main Sail comes tumbling into the . Don't laugh, it happens!!!
It's dangerous!!!

2. Stepping the Mast - This is a two person job. No muscle is required, just some thinking.
Let's assume a male-female combination. No chauvinism intended here! Do it any-way you want, but for example we will use this combination.

a. Remove the pin from the tabernacle at the foot of the mast.
b. Place the female crew on the Aft , facing forward, just behind the travelor. The male crew should be forward at the pulpit
c. Pick the mast up and move Aft with it. The female will be holding the mast over her head and moving it Aft. Go slowly as balance at this point becomes critical.
d. Position the Aft holes of the tabernacle plate on the mast so that they align with the Aft holes on the tabernackle deck plate located on the top of the .
e. Insert the tabernackle pin. (NOTE
g. The male crew member will now walk forward, the mast overhead, raising it to its full up position.
h. The female will then attach the forstay to the bow plate.
The forstay attaches to the second hole aft from the bow.

This whole operation should have taken roughly 60 seconds, so don't get frustrated, reading
this.

i. Lowering the Mast - Utilize the same technique in reverse.

3. Tuning - It is most likely the most important aspect in the rigging of your boat. The tuning of your rig has more to do with its sailing characteristics, pointing ability, etc. than any other facet of your boat.

a. Tighten the uppers and the forstay until the mast is in a straight up position, forward and aft as well as port and starboard. The uppers and forstay should, at this point,
should be tight much like a guitar string, you should be able to pluck them.
b. Now tighten the lowers, still keeping the mast in its straight attitude. The lowers should not be as tight as the uppers. You should be able to hold the lower shroud, placing the palm of you hand flat against the inboard side of the shroud and with the other hand pull the shroud forward and aft approximately 2" from center. If
the lowers are to tight, the mast will bend forward.
c. Install the locking rings into the lowers and uppers so that they cannot turn and then tape these rings in such a way as to eliminate the possibility of chafing.
d. Install the locking rings in the forstay.

Your boat should now be in tune. Small adjustments may be made as you sail the boat because of stretching in the rigging as well as any modifications you may feel will make the boat, perform better. "This is a starting point, not a Law." Play with the tuning as you understand it.

When lowering and raising the mast from this point on, it is only necessary to disconnect and readjust the forstay. The lowers and uppers should stay attached and tuned.
10-04-2010, 06:07  
Boat: Currently boatless
 
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Victoria 18' ?

  • Thread starter RussC
  • Start date Jun 13, 2016
  • Forums for All Owners
  • Trailer Sailors

RussC

Looks like a nice toy.  

jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John

It's not a Montgomery but you will have lots of fun with her. 2 boats. You are really hooked. Congrats.  

walt

Going to need yet one more boat shed.. LOL.. Looks like huge fun!!!  

jssailem said: It's not a Montgomery but you will have lots of fun with her. 2 boats. You are really hooked. Congrats. Click to expand

Best of luck keeping it quiet.  

walt said: Going to need yet one more boat shed.. LOL.. Looks like huge fun!!! Click to expand
Crazy Dave Condon said: Is the Victoria the one which has cocpit floor drains up forward in the cockpit floor with the drains cris crossing one another underneath the cockpit floor to the thru hull drains. Click to expand

victoria 18 sailboat data

She looks great Russ. Like the colors of the gennaker/asymmetrical.  

jssailem said: She looks great Russ. Like the colors of the gennaker/asymmetrical. Click to expand

P1030621.JPG

Wile looking at another thread about sail numbers it occurred to me: why is my sail number so high when there were only about 600 of these boats built? then it hit me. Sail number 79230 must be: built in 19 79 (it was) and number 230 in the series. Do any other manufactures use this format ?  

P1030623.JPG

She looks great Russ. 2 feet of draft looks like she can be run up nearly to the beach. That boat is going to give you a lot of fun this summer. What lake? Tweety? Seems I remember a cat and bird cartoon from the 50-60's - Sylvester and "Tweety"? May your summer winds make her fly.  

Know the area. Went by there when I was driving up to Crater Lake after leaving Grants Pass a couple of years ago. Very pretty area. If you get the bug to head our way, let me know. We have a couple of nice lakes she would have fun sailing. Detroit, and Green Peter come to mind.  

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VIDEO

  1. Sailfish 18

  2. Sail Wars! Virginia Victoria RC Sailboat Racing, NVMYC 2023, Video#259

  3. Amazing boat fits in a box

  4. Sailing our Victoria 18 Sailboat at Sunset

  5. Seascape 18

  6. Victoria RC yacht re-christened, the JEM sails again, GoPro on board

COMMENTS

  1. VICTORIA 18

    The number built listed is only a rough approximation. Just before the factory closed, a VICTORIA 17 was introduced, a shortened version of the 18 with an outboard rudder. It is thought that they exist in very small numbers. Victoria Yachts was a company founded by the designers son, Bill McVay. The location was:

  2. Victoria 18

    The Victoria 18 is an American trailerable sailboat that was designed by Canadian G. William McVay.It was built in the United States 1977 to 1983.. Most boats built were sloop rigged, but a few were built as cutters with a bowsprit.A small number were built as the Victoria 17, with a shorter hull and an outboard rudder.. The Victoria 18 is a cabin development of G. William McVay's 1967 open ...

  3. Victoria 18

    The Victoria 18 is a 18.5ft fractional sloop designed by G. William McVay and built in fiberglass by Victoria Yachts Co. between 1977 and 1983. 600 units have been built. The Victoria 18 is a moderate weight sailboat which is a good performer. It is very stable / stiff and has a low righting capability if capsized. It is best suited as a day-boat.

  4. Review of Victoria 18

    The DL-ratio for Victoria 18 is 264 which categorizes this boat among 'light crusers & offshore racers'. Heavy Light 12% 0 50 100. 12% of all similar sailboat designs are categorized as heavier. A heavy displacement combined with smaller water plane area has lower acceleration and is more comfortable.

  5. Victoria 18

    Victoria 18 is a 18′ 6″ / 5.6 m monohull sailboat designed by G. William McVay and built by Victoria Yachts Co. between 1977 and 1983. ... The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more. Formula. D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³ D: Displacement of the boat in pounds ...

  6. VICTORIA 18: Reviews, Specifications, Built, Engine

    If you are a boat enthusiast looking to get more information on specs, built, make, etc. of different boats, then here is a complete review of VICTORIA 18. Built by Victoria Yachts Co. and designed by G. William McVay, the boat was first built in 1977. It has a hull type of Long Keel and LOA is 5.64. Its sail area/displacement ratio 19.02.

  7. First Sailboat Buying Advice

    I've been looking for a few weeks now for a boat under $3,000 with a trailer and have come across a Pearson Triton 18 and a McVay Victoria 18. I am looking for advice based on the ideal boat for outlined below. The Pearson in particular has been difficult to find information on, I can really only ever find reviews on the larger Triton's.

  8. What number is my boat

    In both options, the first three letters, assigned by the US Coast Guard, identified the builder. VYN was assigned to Ria Yachts DBA Victoria Yachts. The next five numbers were the serial number which was at the discretion of the builder. It may or may not include the hull number although most do. In your case it's pretty likely the 18 was ...

  9. Victoria 18

    Sailboat data, rig dimensions and recommended sail areas for Victoria 18 sailboat. Tech info about rigging, halyards, sheets, mainsail covers and more. Sailboat Data directory for over 8,000 sailboat designs and manufacturers. Direct access to halyards lengths, recommended sail areas, mainsail cover styles, standing rigging fittings, and lots ...

  10. victoria 18 Archives

    To provide the best experiences, we use technologies like cookies to store and/or access device information. Consenting to these technologies will allow us to process data such as browsing behavior or unique IDs on this site. Not consenting or withdrawing consent, may adversely affect certain features and functions.

  11. Boat: 1981 Victoria 18

    This Victoria 18 sailboat has a fiberglass hull and an LOA of 18.5 feet (length over all). The boat has a 56 inch beam. This sailboat is set up to sail as a Sloop. The craft has 134 square feet of sail area. Displacement for the boat is 1200 lbs. The draft of this sailboat is approximately 2'0". (For those brand new to sailing, draft is ...

  12. Victoria 18 and St Pete info

    Location: St Pete. Boat: Sabre 34 , Island Packet 38. Posts: 739. Re: Victoria 18 and St Pete info. You should have no problem going under the dick meisner bridge ( north end of skyway) then straight up through pinellas bayway structure E it has 25 ft clearance closed, you'll probably need to request an opening.

  13. Victoria 18' ?

    A P-18 is listed as 1100 pounds displacement, and the Victoria as 1250. (sailboatdata.com) I tow my 192, 1400 pounds listed, with a Subaru Forester, which lists a capacity of 2200 or 2400 pounds (depending on where you find the spec.) I don't really like to do it, because surely the boat and trailer at at or exceeding that max.

  14. Victoria Eighteen Sailboat

    The factory made a shorter version called the Victoria 17, but with a transom hung rudder, which solved the issue. The cutter rig was an option, but very few were actually built (3 or 4) and it wasn't to address a weather helm issue, but to satisfy a perceived client demand. The sloop is the better sailor by far.

  15. Boat: 1982 Victoria 18

    The 1982 Victoria 18 sailboat has a fiberglass hull and has an overall length of 18.5 feet (sometimes referred to as LOA). The width (or beam) of this craft is 56 inches. This boat is rigged as a Sloop. The sail area for the sailboat is 134 square feet. The displacement for the boat is approximately 1200 lbs.

  16. SailboatData.com

    SailboatData.com …is a database that contains information on over 9000 production and semi-production sailboats dating back to the late 1800's. COMPARE BOATS To compare up to three boats at one time, click the (+) Remove a compared boat by clicking (-)

  17. 1979 Victoria 18

    Messages. 53. May 7, 2012. #2. Re: 1979 Victoria 18. The Victoria is a pretty fair boat for lake sailors except it is not the best in light air. you might get disappointed or frustrated trying to learn in a boat that needs some skill when the wind is very light. if you have pretty consistent winds, you should be fine. the full length keel makes ...

  18. victoria 18

    Minnesail. 2943 posts · Joined 2013. #2 · May 18, 2017. I'm in a community sailing club that has a Vic 18. I'll probably be there this Sunday, if I can I'll take some pictures. It's a thrilling boat to sail, because it heels over very easily. You spend most of the sail over at about 30º, sometimes more! Catalina 22.

  19. Victoria 18 motor bracket

    I an a new owner of a very well kept Victoria 18 that has no signs of ever having an outboard motor. The factory installed receiver (made of some polymer) appears to be in good shape. ... To save a list of favorite sailboats, please login or register. LOGIN REGISTER ... We use technologies like cookies to store and/or access device information ...

  20. Need Instructions on Rigging a Victoria 18

    Attach all shrouds to the mast. b. Lay the mast on the deck with the step forward on the bow pulpit. (A piece of line may be used at this point to hold the step to prevent the mast from rolling off the boat). c. Extend all the turnbuckles to within approximately 1" of their fully extended position.

  21. Victoria 18' ?

    Merit 22- Oregon lakes. Jun 27, 2016. #33. Update: Today I got all the teak refinished with Cetol and re-installed it. then polished the brass and other shiny bits etc. , and took her down to the graphics shop to have them install the new "Victoria Eighteen" graphics on the sides and her new name on the stern.

  22. Help stepping mast on Victoria 18

    To provide the best experiences, we use technologies like cookies to store and/or access device information. Consenting to these technologies will allow us to process data such as browsing behavior or unique IDs on this site. Not consenting or withdrawing consent, may adversely affect certain features and functions.