09-04-2010, 13:42 | |
Boat: Radford 40 | . the primary function of a topping is to support the boom when the sail is being raised or lowered. They also serve to prevent the leach of the sail from being stretched. I do not know any , but I bet if you goggled toppiing lifts you would find answers! Tom |
09-04-2010, 13:45 | |
Boat: 1990 Ericson 32-200 | |
09-04-2010, 13:47 | |
Boat: Gozzard 36 | of this size to not have a "topping lift" since it can be stored down. With larger the weight of the boom can be high and the boom could chafe against the . How do you store your boat? While you could add a block to the top of the mast to run a line to the end of the boom so you might pull this line to raise the boom. Not all are alike so that alone is not a reason add one but you could. Is there some reason you feel you need one? |
09-04-2010, 13:48 | |
Boat: Research vessel for a university, retired now. | |
09-04-2010, 13:49 | |
Boat: Research vessel for a university, retired now. | |
09-04-2010, 13:56 | |
Boat: Cape Dory 33, 17' Boston Whaler | to the main in lieu of a topping lift since you'll rarely need to suspend the boom while the sail is actually on it. |
09-04-2010, 14:10 | |
Boat: Rosa B | |
09-04-2010, 14:12 | |
Boat: Victoria 18-Halcyon | to rig the main sail. I had a friend rig the boat for me yrs ago and back to . did not pay attention. At this point haven't sailed yet except with to get a feel for the way. not up. |
09-04-2010, 14:24 | |
21. Unless you enjoy having a boom beat about the when rasing & lowering the main ALL sailboats benefit from a topping lift. Dead end it at the boom end, up to a block at the mast and back down the mast to a cleat. DO NOT HAVE THE CLEAT, IE, THE END THAT YOU USE TO RELEASE/SECURE IT AT THE BOOM END. | |
10-04-2010, 05:07 | |
Boat: (Cruiser Living On Dirt) | Rigging: A. Mast and Boom are all extruded anodized . For best appearance a coat of wax should be applied to all surfaces and repeated on a semi-annual basis. This will keep the surfaces clean and make the of and road film much easier. B. Shrouds. Two uppers - Two lowers - and forestay, are 8 / 8 - 1 x 19 dried . They require virtually no other than periodic wiping with a damp cloth. While doing this, you should check terminals for any fraying as well as the shrouds themselves for kinks. C. Turnbuckles - are also virtually free. They should be visually inspected for cracks and occasionally the threads should be lubricated lightly with WD-40 or a similar substance. D. Spreaders - are free floating fore and aft. Vertically they should stand straight out or at a slightly upward angle from the mast. The upper shrouds should be taped or covered at the spreaders with spreader boots to eliminate the possibility of chafing on the during tacks or while close hauled. E. Rigging the Mast: a. Attach all shrouds to the mast. b. Lay the mast on the with the step forward on the bow pulpit. (A piece of line may be used at this point to hold the step to prevent the mast from rolling off the boat). c. Extend all the turnbuckles to within approximately 1" of their fully extended position. d. Separate the starboard upper and lower shrouds and drape them over the starboard side of the boat. Do the same for the port side shrouds and drape them over the port side. e. Now attach the upper and lower turnbuckles to the Chain Plates making sure that the Upper turnbuckle goes in the AFT Hole of the and the lower turnbuckle is attached through the froward hole. (IMPORTANT) All clevis pins should be installed from to to inboard. There are two primary reasons for doing this. 1. If the cotter pin should break for any reason, gravity will help hold the clevis pin in position. 2. If the cotter rings are placed , the will hook on them while the is luffing and rip them out. This procedure should be followed through-out the rigging. ALL COTTER RINGS AND PINS INBOARD. f. Halyards - The Main should be run through the two nylon sheeves at the mast . Make sure the shackle is placed on the aft or slotted side of the mast. This halyard may now be secured tothe starboard cleat at the base of the mast. The Jib Halyard should be run through the block located on the forward face of the mast about 1/8th of the way down from the mast head. The shackle end of this halyard should be placed so as to be away from the mast. This halyard may now be atached to the cleat on the port side of the mast. (NOTE yells to douse the Jib. you instinctively grab the port halyard. The gets hit in the head with the boom as the Main Sail comes tumbling into the . Don't laugh, it happens!!! It's dangerous!!! 2. Stepping the Mast - This is a two person job. No muscle is required, just some thinking. Let's assume a male-female combination. No chauvinism intended here! Do it any-way you want, but for example we will use this combination. a. Remove the pin from the tabernacle at the foot of the mast. b. Place the female crew on the Aft , facing forward, just behind the travelor. The male crew should be forward at the pulpit c. Pick the mast up and move Aft with it. The female will be holding the mast over her head and moving it Aft. Go slowly as balance at this point becomes critical. d. Position the Aft holes of the tabernacle plate on the mast so that they align with the Aft holes on the tabernackle deck plate located on the top of the . e. Insert the tabernackle pin. (NOTE g. The male crew member will now walk forward, the mast overhead, raising it to its full up position. h. The female will then attach the forstay to the bow plate. The forstay attaches to the second hole aft from the bow. This whole operation should have taken roughly 60 seconds, so don't get frustrated, reading this. i. Lowering the Mast - Utilize the same technique in reverse. 3. Tuning - It is most likely the most important aspect in the rigging of your boat. The tuning of your rig has more to do with its sailing characteristics, pointing ability, etc. than any other facet of your boat. a. Tighten the uppers and the forstay until the mast is in a straight up position, forward and aft as well as port and starboard. The uppers and forstay should, at this point, should be tight much like a guitar string, you should be able to pluck them. b. Now tighten the lowers, still keeping the mast in its straight attitude. The lowers should not be as tight as the uppers. You should be able to hold the lower shroud, placing the palm of you hand flat against the inboard side of the shroud and with the other hand pull the shroud forward and aft approximately 2" from center. If the lowers are to tight, the mast will bend forward. c. Install the locking rings into the lowers and uppers so that they cannot turn and then tape these rings in such a way as to eliminate the possibility of chafing. d. Install the locking rings in the forstay. Your boat should now be in tune. Small adjustments may be made as you sail the boat because of stretching in the rigging as well as any modifications you may feel will make the boat, perform better. "This is a starting point, not a Law." Play with the tuning as you understand it. When lowering and raising the mast from this point on, it is only necessary to disconnect and readjust the forstay. The lowers and uppers should stay attached and tuned. |
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The number built listed is only a rough approximation. Just before the factory closed, a VICTORIA 17 was introduced, a shortened version of the 18 with an outboard rudder. It is thought that they exist in very small numbers. Victoria Yachts was a company founded by the designers son, Bill McVay. The location was:
The Victoria 18 is an American trailerable sailboat that was designed by Canadian G. William McVay.It was built in the United States 1977 to 1983.. Most boats built were sloop rigged, but a few were built as cutters with a bowsprit.A small number were built as the Victoria 17, with a shorter hull and an outboard rudder.. The Victoria 18 is a cabin development of G. William McVay's 1967 open ...
The Victoria 18 is a 18.5ft fractional sloop designed by G. William McVay and built in fiberglass by Victoria Yachts Co. between 1977 and 1983. 600 units have been built. The Victoria 18 is a moderate weight sailboat which is a good performer. It is very stable / stiff and has a low righting capability if capsized. It is best suited as a day-boat.
The DL-ratio for Victoria 18 is 264 which categorizes this boat among 'light crusers & offshore racers'. Heavy Light 12% 0 50 100. 12% of all similar sailboat designs are categorized as heavier. A heavy displacement combined with smaller water plane area has lower acceleration and is more comfortable.
Victoria 18 is a 18′ 6″ / 5.6 m monohull sailboat designed by G. William McVay and built by Victoria Yachts Co. between 1977 and 1983. ... The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more. Formula. D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³ D: Displacement of the boat in pounds ...
If you are a boat enthusiast looking to get more information on specs, built, make, etc. of different boats, then here is a complete review of VICTORIA 18. Built by Victoria Yachts Co. and designed by G. William McVay, the boat was first built in 1977. It has a hull type of Long Keel and LOA is 5.64. Its sail area/displacement ratio 19.02.
I've been looking for a few weeks now for a boat under $3,000 with a trailer and have come across a Pearson Triton 18 and a McVay Victoria 18. I am looking for advice based on the ideal boat for outlined below. The Pearson in particular has been difficult to find information on, I can really only ever find reviews on the larger Triton's.
In both options, the first three letters, assigned by the US Coast Guard, identified the builder. VYN was assigned to Ria Yachts DBA Victoria Yachts. The next five numbers were the serial number which was at the discretion of the builder. It may or may not include the hull number although most do. In your case it's pretty likely the 18 was ...
Sailboat data, rig dimensions and recommended sail areas for Victoria 18 sailboat. Tech info about rigging, halyards, sheets, mainsail covers and more. Sailboat Data directory for over 8,000 sailboat designs and manufacturers. Direct access to halyards lengths, recommended sail areas, mainsail cover styles, standing rigging fittings, and lots ...
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This Victoria 18 sailboat has a fiberglass hull and an LOA of 18.5 feet (length over all). The boat has a 56 inch beam. This sailboat is set up to sail as a Sloop. The craft has 134 square feet of sail area. Displacement for the boat is 1200 lbs. The draft of this sailboat is approximately 2'0". (For those brand new to sailing, draft is ...
Location: St Pete. Boat: Sabre 34 , Island Packet 38. Posts: 739. Re: Victoria 18 and St Pete info. You should have no problem going under the dick meisner bridge ( north end of skyway) then straight up through pinellas bayway structure E it has 25 ft clearance closed, you'll probably need to request an opening.
A P-18 is listed as 1100 pounds displacement, and the Victoria as 1250. (sailboatdata.com) I tow my 192, 1400 pounds listed, with a Subaru Forester, which lists a capacity of 2200 or 2400 pounds (depending on where you find the spec.) I don't really like to do it, because surely the boat and trailer at at or exceeding that max.
The factory made a shorter version called the Victoria 17, but with a transom hung rudder, which solved the issue. The cutter rig was an option, but very few were actually built (3 or 4) and it wasn't to address a weather helm issue, but to satisfy a perceived client demand. The sloop is the better sailor by far.
The 1982 Victoria 18 sailboat has a fiberglass hull and has an overall length of 18.5 feet (sometimes referred to as LOA). The width (or beam) of this craft is 56 inches. This boat is rigged as a Sloop. The sail area for the sailboat is 134 square feet. The displacement for the boat is approximately 1200 lbs.
SailboatData.com …is a database that contains information on over 9000 production and semi-production sailboats dating back to the late 1800's. COMPARE BOATS To compare up to three boats at one time, click the (+) Remove a compared boat by clicking (-)
Messages. 53. May 7, 2012. #2. Re: 1979 Victoria 18. The Victoria is a pretty fair boat for lake sailors except it is not the best in light air. you might get disappointed or frustrated trying to learn in a boat that needs some skill when the wind is very light. if you have pretty consistent winds, you should be fine. the full length keel makes ...
Minnesail. 2943 posts · Joined 2013. #2 · May 18, 2017. I'm in a community sailing club that has a Vic 18. I'll probably be there this Sunday, if I can I'll take some pictures. It's a thrilling boat to sail, because it heels over very easily. You spend most of the sail over at about 30º, sometimes more! Catalina 22.
I an a new owner of a very well kept Victoria 18 that has no signs of ever having an outboard motor. The factory installed receiver (made of some polymer) appears to be in good shape. ... To save a list of favorite sailboats, please login or register. LOGIN REGISTER ... We use technologies like cookies to store and/or access device information ...
Attach all shrouds to the mast. b. Lay the mast on the deck with the step forward on the bow pulpit. (A piece of line may be used at this point to hold the step to prevent the mast from rolling off the boat). c. Extend all the turnbuckles to within approximately 1" of their fully extended position.
Merit 22- Oregon lakes. Jun 27, 2016. #33. Update: Today I got all the teak refinished with Cetol and re-installed it. then polished the brass and other shiny bits etc. , and took her down to the graphics shop to have them install the new "Victoria Eighteen" graphics on the sides and her new name on the stern.
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