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Anchor Selection: A Guide to Types and Sizes

Anchoring is a crucial aspect of boating, and the right anchor can provide stability, safety and peace of mind for any sailor. Choosing the correct type and size of anchor is essential, as it can greatly impact your overall experience on the water. This guide will outline the various types of anchors available, their ideal uses, and how to choose the right size for your boat.

Understanding the Purpose of Anchors

Anchors serve multiple purposes in boating:

• Holding power : Anchors are designed to provide holding power by digging into the seabed and creating resistance, preventing the boat from drifting.
• Temporary mooring : When a boat needs to be stationary for a short period, an anchor is used to secure it in place.
• Emergencies : Anchors can serve as a safety measure in emergencies by helping to control your boat’s movements in rough weather or if the engine fails.

Types of Anchors

There are several types of anchors to cater for various boating requirements and environments. The primary ones include:

Plow Anchors

Originally designed for large ships, plow anchors resemble a plowshare and offer excellent holding power in most bottom conditions, especially sand and mud. They work by digging into the seabed and maintaining a consistent grip. Plow anchors are popular among cruisers due to their adaptability, and they can handle a variety of wind and current changes.

Danforth Anchors

Also known as fluke anchors, Danforth anchors boast superior holding power in proportion to their weight. They’re characterized by their flat, sharp flukes and long shank that allows them to dig into soft substrates like sand and mud. However, Danforth anchors may struggle with rocky bottoms and can be challenging to set in grassy or weedy seabeds.

Claw Anchors

Claw anchors, also known as Bruce anchors, have three claws that provide holding power in a variety of bottom conditions. Due to their versatile design, they re-set easily when the boat’s position changes and can function with shorter scope, which is the anchor rode (chain or rope) payed out relative to the water’s depth. These factors make claw anchors popular among boaters, though their holding power may be less than that of plow or Danforth anchors.

Mushroom Anchors

Mushroom anchors are useful for small boats in relatively calm conditions. As the name suggests, they’re shaped like a mushroom and utilize their weight to create a suction effect, embedding themselves into soft bottom substrates like silt or mud. However, they generally offer limited holding power in stronger currents or wind.

Choosing the Right Size Anchor for Your Boat

Selecting the appropriate size anchor for your vessel involves considering factors like boat weight, size, and the windage (resistance to wind). Generally, anchor manufacturers offer recommendations based on boat length, but it’s essential to factor in your specific boat’s requirements and typical anchoring conditions.

Anchor Weight

Anchors are typically sized by weight, ranging from a few pounds for small vessels to several hundred pounds for large yachts. The rule of thumb is that the heavier the boat, the heavier the anchor should be. However, it’s important to consider the type of anchor you’re using, as the holding power varies across anchor designs.

Boat Length

Boat length is another crucial aspect to consider when selecting an anchor size. Consult manufacturer guidelines on their recommendations for anchor sizing based on boat length.

Chain and Rode Size

The anchor rode, which connects your boat to the anchor, is critical for holding power. The scope, typically measured in a ratio of the rode’s length to the water’s depth, is an important factor for the anchor’s performance. A common recommendation is using a 4:1 scope for temporary mooring and a 7:1 scope for overnight anchoring. Ensure the chain (the section of the rode closest to the anchor) is of suitable size and strength to prevent it from breaking under strain.

Final Thoughts

When selecting an anchor for your boat, it’s essential to consider the type, size, and the conditions in which you’ll be anchoring. Consult manufacturer guidelines and conduct thorough research on the options available to make an informed decision. A properly sized and suited anchor will offer peace of mind, ensuring your vessel remains securely moored during your adventures on the water.

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Boat Anchor Selection Guide: Choose the Perfect Type & Size

When you buy a used boat, odds are it will come with an anchor, and with a new boat you'll usually get to choose an anchor for it. What if that old anchor you have on your new-to-you boat doesn't hold so well, or needs replacing? In any of those scenarios, you'll need to pick out a new anchor for your boat. There are more types of anchors that you dreamed of, and they're all different in how they perform in different anchoring conditions. And your anchor will need to be sized for your boat.

The type of anchor you choose depends on the predominant bottom types where you plan to sail, and what fits on your boat. Once you know the type, you get the perfect type and size of anchor from the length and weight of your boat using the manufacturers' recommendations.

On this page:

How does an anchor work, loads and forces on an anchor, anchor construction materials, most common anchor styles, how do i choose an anchor, what's in your anchor locker, picking the right anchor ground tackle.

Instead of getting overwhelmed, if you do a little research upfront on what you might need you can narrow down your choices and get the best anchor for your boat and where you use it.

While it may seem obvious at first glance, there are many mistaken assumptions about just how your anchor holds your boat to the bottom. It's important to understand just what your anchor does when it's holding your boat, so you know why you may choose one anchor or another.

All anchors dig into the bottom. Some have aggressive, plow-like forms or scoops which burrow in quickly, others have various hooks, spikes or protrusions designed to catch and hook as soon as the anchor is pulled.

Angle of attack provides holding power

The pulling force on an anchor is along the shank, and for an anchor to offer maximum holding power, it's crucial that the bulk of the load from the boat's pull is applied in this direction. If the pull is from the side, the anchor may break out. If the pull is from above the anchor, it definitely will.

Part of the role of the chain in your rode is to keep the rode flat on the bottom to make sure the loads from the boat are horizontal and along the direction of the shank.

Scope & chain provide angle and drag

Your anchor rode and how much scope you let out is as important to your choice of anchor to how well you hold. Chain has its own resistance to being dragged and adds extra holding, and as noted above, it also keeps the forces on the anchor from pulling it out.

The longer the scope, the better the angle of pull on the anchor. With a length of chain, the extra weight adds more holding the bottom, and a rope/chain rode gives extra shock absorption in the catenary of the rode.

You can learn more about how to select and install the right anchor rode by reading our detailed article here.

Orientation of anchors

Most modern anchors have a definite top and bottom, and will not set lying on their backs. These anchors flip and orient their blades down if they land the wrong way or break out. Many anchor designs dig in quickly with the anchor lying on its side, and may have roll bars or weights to keep them in a suitable setting orientation.

Some anchors, like grapnel anchors or the Bulwagga, had a radial symmetry and no true up or down. These don't need to reorient or right themselves. They will catch the bottom no matter how they lie, though not all the blades and hooks will help hold the anchor.

Good anchors will reset unnoticably

All anchors can break out and may get rolled as a boat swings at anchor and wind strength increases. An anchor's ability to reset is important. You don't want to drag long before your anchor sets again. With a good anchor, you won't even be aware it has broken out and reset, as it will happen quickly without your boat seeming to drag at all.

An anchor doesn't care at all about what kind of boat is on the other end of the rode, what it cares about is how much drag force is on the rode. A heavy boat in a light breeze may pull as hard on an anchor as a lighter boat in more wind. It's the force that counts, and you size your anchor by how much force you can expect to land on that anchor and rode.

Boat weight partially determines drag force

Your boat's weight is one of the two sources of drag force on your anchor. Heavier boats will pull more than light boats in the same condition. Many anchor vendors give tables of boat weight ranges which match to the best anchor size.

In wind, boat length is more important

Picture two boats with the same weight - a low-slung classic yacht with little freeboard , but a heavy full keel, and a more modern design with higher freeboard, less ballast, and about ten more feet of length. In windless conditions, they'll pull about the same against the anchor.

But in twenty knots of breeze, the longer boat with more freeboard will have a lot more pull. Here, the boat's length overrides the weight. A doubling of wind speed quadruples the load on the anchor, so this effect becomes more pronounced the higher the wind.

Anchors are made from three primary materials - galvanized steel , stainless steel , and aluminum .

Galvanized steel anchors are cheap

Galvanized anchors are the most common, as they are the least expensive, offer excellent weight, and are very durable and rugged. They can rust over time as the galvanization wears off, but provide the best cost to holding of all anchor construction material. You can re-galvanize an anchor at considerably less cost than replacing the anchor, if the original protection wears off.

Stainless steel anchors are expensive

Stainless steel anchors have similar strength to galvanized steel anchors combined with corrosion resistance. They look beautiful on the bow, but they are quite expensive at 3-5 times the cost of a similar galvanized anchor, and you'll want to pair them with a more expensive stainless chain. While they won't rust, they can get scratched and lose their shiny finish if you use them often. And there is a risk of crevice corrosion if stainless steel sits underwater too long.

Aluminum anchors don't rely on weight

Aluminum anchors are lightweight and strong, but may not have the holding power of heavier anchors of a similar size, and aluminum is not as strong as steel. They are popular with racers, and also for secondary anchors, because they are lighter and easier to handle. Aluminum anchors rely on bottom penetration to set, not weight.

The dozens of anchors available break down into a few general classes. Trying to organize all the choices by function helps you narrow the field to what may work best for you.

Claw anchor

Claw anchors, like the Bruce, have claw style blades to dig in and hold well for most conditions. They may struggle to dig in with a hard mud or clay bottom, but will reset well on other bottoms.

Plow anchor

Plow anchors are generally fixed, like the Delta, or have a hinge like the CQR. The fixed plows do well in everything but rocks, while the hinged CQR doesn't hold quite as well but responds better to the movement of the rode since there is a swivel.

Plow with Roll Bars

Modern designs like the Rocna and Spade incorporate a plow form on the blades, coupled with a roll bar. These have fantastic holding power and set easily. They don't fit as well on some older boats, and are more expensive.

Fluke anchor

The fluke anchors are great in mud and sand, but don't do as well with bottoms they can't penetrate or grass. The Danforth (and its clones) are popular with smaller boats, and the lightweight aluminum Fortress is a favorite with weight conscious ravers.

Fisherman's anchor

The traditional crossbar and hooks anchor is good for rocks. Some break down for storage, which makes them a popular choice for a storm anchor.

Grapnel anchor

Grapnels are fine anchors for dinghies, kayaks, PWCs and other small, light craft but don't do well with higher loads and larger boats.

Mushroom anchor

Small mushroom anchors can hold a small craft like a dinghy or kayak. Many permanent moorings are large mushroom anchors, where they can dig deep into the bottom. But they are not suitable for big boat use.

Other alternatives

This list isn't exhaustive. There is constant innovation in anchor technology, from the Bulwagga to various box anchors, which don't even look much like anchors as we think of them. All have their strengths and weaknesses, so research carefully and try to find someone with real-world experiences with them.

Remember, there is no "right" or perfect anchor, so look at a lot of options to see what fits your boating style.

The basic decisions you have to make about your anchor are the style, size, and material of your anchor. While we can't get into every type of anchor on the market and how it works for every boat, we can give you an overview of the decisions you must make.

What fits on your boat?

If you're adding a new anchor to an existing boat, you may have some natural limitations on what anchors you may choose.

With a bow roller sized for a plow or a nice Danforth bracket installed already, maybe those features limit your choices. You may switch between a CQR and a Delta with that anchor roller, but there's a good chance you can't fit a Rocna's roll bar up there without bending something. You could probably switch a Fortress out for a Danforth in that bracket, but you can not hang a plow from it.

Most anchor manufacturers give dimensional drawings of their products on their websites, so measure and even mock up something to see if it will go. On my boat, I shoved a Manson Supreme where a CQR went, but not without permanently bending a retaining pin. And I mocked the whole thing up in cardboard ahead of time to be sure.

Where will you anchor?

The range of where boat affects what to have in your bow locker. If you're a Chesapeake Bay sailor and you don't leave the bay, something that holds well in mud is a must and may be all you need. But a world cruiser needs something more effective across a range of bottom types.

Give careful thought to the places you’ll want to spend the night on your boat, especially the bottom types you'll find. In the end, you'll likely have more than one anchor, and you want to cover most of the holding types you'll encounter.

Choose your materials based on budget and style

This is a matter of budget and style, mostly. As a cruiser who spends almost every night at anchor, I can't see the sense of spending a fortune on a pretty anchor that spends most of its life hidden. But for some, adding that high gloss show to the bow of a Bristol condition yacht everyone can see most of the time, the aesthetic choice may make more sense.

When I raced, I had a Fortress because it met the requirements to have an anchor, but I ended up spending a couple of nights on it. It was easy to move around, but for vacations I still dragged the 35 lb. CQR out of the shed and put it in the bow locker.

Size your anchor based on boat length and weight

Sizing your anchor is most people's biggest worry. Remember, it's better to have too much anchor instead of not enough. You want to sleep soundly and leave your boat without worrying. If you're hauling your anchor up without a windlass, the extra pounds matter a lot more, but it's better to have extra.

It's not as hard as you think to size your anchor, because every single manufacturer publishes a guide to how to select the right product for your boat. Most of them have tables for boat length and boat weight, and we talked up above about how a boat's weight and windage affect anchor loads.

To size your anchor, follow these steps.

• Search the "by length" table for the length of your boat, and note the recommended size.
• Search for the weight of your boat, and note the recommended size.
• The correct anchor size for your boat is the larger of those two recommendations.

If they give a single number in the table, choose the next number above yours. If they use ranges and your boat is on the edge of a weight or length range, there's no harm in moving to the next size band. Don't move down bands; you don't want to undersize.

For an example, look at this sizing table for Spade Anchors. We've going to pick an anchor for a boat which is 53' long and weighs about 54,000 lbs.

Source: Anchor sizing chart on Spade Anchor USA

You'll see a boat length of 53' puts us at 59ft. and a 55 pound galvanized anchor. But by vessel weight, for 54,000 lbs., the recommended weight is 99 pounds.

So the larger of the two is 99 lbs., so that is the proper weight for this boat.

Most boats should have more than one anchor, so you will go through this process several times. You may need multiple anchors for the different bottom conditions you may come across. If you foul an anchor or lose one, a spare anchor and rode can literally be a lifesaver.

Other reasons for multiple anchors include a lighter anchor for a "lunch hook," though with an electric windlass this isn't much of a concern on bigger boats. You may want a smaller stern anchor in case you need to anchor where you don't want to swing, or it's important to keep your bow facing a direction other than into the wind. And finally, if you plan to cruise far from your home port, you may want a storm anchor.

Any of the anchor types we've discussed will fill many of the above roles, and you can use these tools to evaluate your boat and your plans to make the best choice for each job.

The next step is to select the right ground tackle. Ground tackle consists of everything that connects the anchor to your boat and is used to control the angle of attack, scope, and drag by adding or removing weight to the anchor.

I've written a detailed guide to help you to understand ground tackle in depth , which will help you select the perfect parts yourself.

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Anchor Selection Guide: How to Choose the Best Boat Anchor Type

There are a number of boat anchors available, constructed of different materials, and often with confusing names. This article will discuss the most popular types of boat anchors,  how to choose the best anchor for your boat, the most common material types, and also give an overview of different naming conventions.

Quick Anchor Style Summary

Video: Choosing an Anchor Type

Our video below introduces many of the anchor types discussed here, although the article discusses a few more anchor types and provides some useful links.

Quick Summary Boat Anchor Recommendation

For most boaters , a Bruce or Delta is the best balance between price and performance. Both perform similarly and are similarly priced (Narrowly, the Bruce/Claw is our favorite of the three). If you've used a Danforth in the past , and you have had luck with it, choose a Danforth. If you've never used one before and if your setup allows it, choose a Bruce or Delta instead. If you're a blue-water cruiser , choose a CQR, or consider one of the new generation of anchors discussed below.

Boat Anchor Names: Trademarked Names and Generic Names

A special note is needed on the naming of anchors. Many anchors have a trademarked name, such as a   Bruce   or CQR, and a generic name like Claw or Plow. This is the same as how Xerox is a trademarked name for photocopier and how Aspirin is a trademarked name for pain killer. Trademarks effectively never expire whereas design patents expire after approximately 20-25 years. Therefore, manufacturers are free to clone an anchor design that has an expired patent but cannot use the trademarked name.

Bruce™ Claw Anchor

The   Bruce, or Claw, remains one of the most popular anchors among recreational boaters in North America. This is our anchor of choice as well.

The   Bruce   was developed in the 70s by the Bruce Anchor Group. Once their patent expired in the early 2000s, they stopped production of this anchor but many imitations have come along since.

The  Bruce  is an excellent all-purpose anchor as it performs well in most sea bottoms including mud, sand, rock, and coral. It has a harder time penetrating harder surfaces, such as clay, and bottoms with heavy grass. The three-claw design sets more easily than other anchors. It also resets easily if it is ever broken loose. On the downside, the Bruce has a lower holding power per pound than other anchors, meaning you’ll usually need a larger anchor than say the  Delta/Wing .

Pros:  Performs well in most conditions. Sets easily. Cons:  Awkward one piece design. Lower holding power per pound. Bottoms: Performs well in most bottoms; Struggles in hard bottoms such as clay, or heavy grass.

CQR™/Plow   &   Delta™/Wing Anchor

Both the CQR/Plow and the Delta/Wing are a plow style anchor. The most significant difference between these anchors is the fact that the CQR has a hinged design whereas the Delta is a one piece design.

The   CQR   is one of the oldest styles, dating back to the 30s and to this day, it remains one of the most popular anchors among blue water cruisers. Despite this, it has relatively low holding power and it consistently struggles in independent tests. It’s also rare to find a CQR under 25 lbs lending itself to the saying “There’s no such thing as a small CQR”. Despite these shortcomings, the hinged design makes it more responsive to wind and tide changes as compared to other anchors.

The   Delta   is arguably the most popular anchor on boats today, and is the standard anchor of choice used by most boat manufacturers. It has a good holding power per pound (about 50% more than the Bruce).

Both the   Delta   and the   CQR   perform well in most bottoms, struggling the most in rock.

Pros:   Performs well in most conditions. Fits most bow rollers. Cons:   Hinged design can make stowage awkward. "No such thing as a small CQR/Plow anchor". Bottoms : Performs well in most bottoms; struggles in rock.

Danforth™/Fluke Anchor

The  Danforth , or Fluke anchor, remains a very popular anchor choice. The Fortress is also a popular Fluke style anchor, different from the  Danforth  in that it comes apart and it constructed of light-weight, high-strength, aluminum.

The Fluke performs well in mud and sand, potentially the best of any anchor style. The downside is that outside of these bottoms, it is not a good performer. Therefore, it is a mud/sand only anchor, which fortunately is what most bottoms are comprised of.

Whether or not it is used as a primary anchor, a Fluke anchor makes an excellent choice as a secondary or stern anchor.

Pros:  Performs well in mud and sand. Stows easily on most bow rollers. Cons:   Does not perform well outside of mud/sand. Bottoms : Top performer in mud/sand. Performs poorly in other bottoms.

Spade Anchors

There are several anchors on the market today that feature a sharp fluke and a roll bar. These include the   Rocna and Manson Supreme.

Each of these anchors are essentially a variation on a plow style anchor. If you look at the plow portion of these anchors, you can see they are a lot sharper than traditional plows like the   Delta/Wing   and CQR. Analogous to a knife through butter, these anchors can penetrate the sea bottom a lot easier and deeper than the other anchor styles, hence the name for these anchors: "spade". The roll bar helps orient the anchor upright when setting.

These anchors have performed   extremely well in third party tests . The biggest downside to these anchors is that because they are still patented, they can be very expensive. The roll bar along with the elongated fluke can also make storing these anchors on bow rollers difficult.

Pros:   Very high holding power for many models. Cons:   Difficult to stow on a bow roller. Expense. Bottoms : Performs well in most bottoms; less effective in rock

Grapnel   and Other Small Craft Anchors

A  Grapnel anchor  is generally used for small boats such as Kayaks, Dinghies, Canoes, etc. It’s also popular with fishermen.They fold up very compactly and are easy to stow. A Grapnel’s holding power comes from hooking onto another object, such as a rock. When it does hook, it can create immense holding power, which can also make retrieving the anchor difficult.

Pros:  Great for use as a lunch hook. Folds to allow for compact storage. Cons:  Not appropriate for non-temporary anchorage. Bottoms: Rock or other situations when it can hook onto an object.

Mushroom Anchors

Large Mushroom anchors  are often used for permanent mooring buoys. As the silt from the sea-bottom builds up over these anchors, it can result in extreme holding power, up to 10 times the holding power of its actual weight. As a mooring buoy, the mushroom anchor is an excellent choice, however, it is not as useful in some temporary anchoring situations. An exception is that smaller versions of these anchors are good for use in small boats for anchoring while fishing or for a lunch stop over silty bottoms where the mushroom can penetrate.

Pros: If large, great for permanent mooring buoys. If small, good for use while fishing or for a lunch stop. Cons: If large, not appropriate for non-permanent moorings. If small, only good in soft bottoms. Bottoms: Silt, soft mud, unpacked sand.

Boat Anchor Material Types

Boat anchors come in a variety of types, the most popular being mild steel, high-tensile steel, stainless steel, and aluminum.

Most of the traditional steel anchors we are accustomed to seeing are likely either mild or high tensile steel. Mild steel and high-tensile steel are nearly indistinguishable from one another appearance wise. However, high tensile steel is 2-3 times stronger than mild steel. This isn't to say that a high-tensile steel boat anchor has 2-3 times the holding power of its mild steel counterpart, but it will nonetheless be stronger.

Both mild steel and high-tensile steel anchors are not corrosion resistant, and therefore need to be galvanized to prevent rust and other corrosion. All steel anchors (except stainless) should be galvanized. Galvanization has a tendency to wear down over time, but an anchor (as well as nearly any other steel product) can be re-galvanized.

Stainless steel is identical to galvanized steel in terms of holding power but differs significantly in appearance. The shiny gloss is essentially the only difference between stainless steel and galvanized steel. Stainless steel is also very corrosion resistant and will resist most rusting over time. You will often see manufacturers describing stainless steel as either 316 Stainless or 304 Stainless. 316 is a different chemical composition than 304 and is more corrosion resistant. It also more expensive.

There are some anchors constructed from high strength aluminum, such as the Fortress. These anchors are extremely lightweight while still offering high holding power. These anchors rely on bottom penetration for most of the holding power, and therefore, if they are not set, they provide little to no holding power.

Published May 08, 2018

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Everything You Need to Know About 8 Major Boat Anchor Types

There are quite a few types of anchors you can use for your boat and they are not all interchangeable so it’s key that you pick the right one. Many boaters carry more than one type as not all anchors work well in all conditions. It’s good to have an anchor that can work on soft, muddy surfaces as well as one that can work in hard or rocky conditions. If you know where you’ll be boating and what conditions are like ahead of time, you can prepare by ensuring you have the right anchor. 

All an anchor needs to do to be functional is hold your vessel in place in the water. But this requires an anchor suited to both the size of your boat and the conditions below the surface of the water.

Let’s take a look at 8 of the most common anchor types to see what they’re good for and how they work.

Fluke Anchor or Danforth Anchor

Fluke is the type of anchor, but Danforth is a trademark name. It’s like tissue versus Kleenex. The name “fluke” is a reference to the pointed parts of the anchor that stick out like teeth.

• Description: Some fluke designs can come apart, and some are solid. Typically, they are made of lightweight aluminum and offer remarkable strength and holding power even when they are rather small and light.  There are several fluke designs, and some may have multiple flukes, but there will be at least two present.  These are great for bass boats, pontoons , and much more.
• Boat Type : Small to medium boats under 30 feet
• Ideal For : Muddy, sandy, and soft seabeds
• Bad For: Rocky bottoms, hard bottoms, coral
• Advantages: The flukes can dig in like a scoop and bury themselves deep, allowing the pressure of the mud/sand and water to push down on the flat parts of the flukes, creating a strong hold to keep your boat in place. This is arguably the best kind of anchor to use in these situations
• Disadvantages: If the ground is packed hard or covered in rocks or weeds, the fluke will be less effective at getting any grip and may not be able to lock into anything at all, making it essentially useless. 
• Cost: Fluke anchors run a range of prices based on size and quality. Some smaller flukes that still perform very well can be purchased for under $25. Higher quality and larger flukes can be found for $100 to $150. 

Claw Anchor or Bruce Anchor

Bruce is the trademark name for a kind of claw anchor.

• Description: Claw anchors resemble plow anchors but with a broader scoop section and typically three teeth or claws that it uses to dig into the substrate to gain hold. 
• Boat Type: Mid-sized boats up to about 60 feet
• Ideal For : Soft bottoms that are muddy but also rock and coral
• Bad For: Loose seabeds like sand are not ideal for the claw, and hard clay bottoms will offer no purchase. Claws do not perform well in weeds, either.
• Advantages: Claw anchors are considered some of the easiest to use. Setting a claw anchor is usually quick and easier than other anchor types. It’s also easy to reset when it comes loose, so many boaters prefer it and consider it a good, all-around anchor for most conditions. It works best when the bottom is soft so it can get some purchase, and it also does well in rock and coral because the teeth or claws can wedge into place.
• Disadvantages: Pound for pound, the claw anchor also has less holding strength than most other anchors so in poor conditions, you may find a claw anchor coming loose on its own far more than you’d like. 
• Cost: The smallest Bruce or claw-style anchors start around $30 to $40 and are best suited for smaller vessels. Larger and heavier claws, especially stainless steel ones, will increase in price to as much as $150 or more. Marine-grade claw anchors that weigh over 40 lbs can even break $500.

Mushroom Anchor

These are more often used for permanent moorings, like for buoys, as their holding power only increases over time as silt and debris builds up on top of it. They work by simply sitting in place and allowing the cup part to fill up over time as the current deposits material inside.

• Description: Mushroom anchors get their name from their shape, which resembles an upside-down mushroom cap.
• Boat Type : Tiny boats or permanent moorings
• Ideal For: Sandy or loose bottoms so the sediment can collect in the mushroom.
• Bad For: Large boats as well as rocky or hard bottoms
• Advantages : Mushrooms are some of the cheapest anchors and they come in small sizes that are ideal for very small boats. Larger mushrooms can hold things in place permanently if they are given time to really take root.
• Disadvantages: Most mushrooms are not ideal for temporary mooring because they need time to become buried and provide resistance. They have very limited holding power for larger vessels, especially for short term anchoring. On a bottom that is hard or rocky, a mushroom anchor will not be able to provide any holding power as they need soft material and silt to fill in the cup and provide resistance. 
• Cost: A cheap, cast iron mushroom anchor made for a small vessel might cost you around $20. Heavier mushrooms, up to 20lbs, that have a vinyl or galvanized coating can cost as much as $70 or more.

Grapnel Anchor Or Grappler Anchor

They are designed to work on a rocky bottom where the hooks can wedge in between and around rocks to form a strong hold.

• Description: These anchors resemble a grappling hook and tend to have four or more hook-like fingers spread out around the central column. The claws usually fold down when not in use, making this one of the most space-saving anchor designs.
• Boat Type: Smaller vessels under 15 feet
• Ideal For: Rocks
• Bad For: Soft or muddy bottoms
• Advantages: Grapnel anchors are best for smaller boats like canoes because of their compact size and holding power. Once set, it’s very hard to release a grapnel anchor so the hold is reliable.
• Disadvantages: These anchors don’t work well without rocks to hold onto. They also tend to come loose easily if the winds and currents change which doesn’t make them ideal for any sort of long term anchorage.
• Cost: Grapnel anchors can be incredibly cheap with dinghy-sized anchors at under $15. Larger galvanized or stainless steel versions can range from about $60 to $90.

Plow Anchor or CQR Anchor

CQR is a trademark name for a kind of plow anchor. These get their name because they look like an old-timey plow you might find in a field. These anchors are very old and, as such, are very common as well.

• Description: Where a fluke has two or more teeth, a plow has that center fluke or tooth that will dig into the bottom to give the anchor the needed hold.
• Boat Type: Medium-sized boats around 60 feet
• Ideal For: Soft bottoms like sand or mud and also weeds
• Bad For: Hard or rocky bottoms, also very loose bottoms
• Advantages: A plow anchor is one of the best anchors for handling changes in wind and current. They are less likely to break free and need to be reset in these conditions. They tend to work well in many conditions and are fairly reliable and predictable as a result.
• Disadvantages: Plow anchors don’t offer as strong a hold as many other anchor types, and, as a result, to get one that works, you may need to opt for a heavier anchor than you would if you used a different type.
• Cost: Galvanized steel plow anchors can be just over $100, while stainless steel plows can get up around $250 or more.

Delta Anchor

This is another kind of plow anchor and sometimes it’s called a wing anchor. Delta anchors are some of the most popular anchors in use today and are solid, all purpose anchors. These are ideal for most sized vessels including larger boats.

• Description: Delta is a single-piece anchor while the CQR is a hinged piece, so the operation is slightly different. Otherwise, this is much the same as a typical plow anchor.
• Boat Type: Up to 70 feet
• Ideal For: Soft, muddy bottoms but also sand and clay.
• Bad For: Rocks
• Advantages: The Delta anchor is reliable in many conditions and, When it does grab hold because it’s one solid piece, it offers a surprisingly strong hold as well, especially when compared to similar anchors.
• Disadvantages: May be too large or expensive for many boats.
• Cost: A Delta anchor for a boat around 30 to 40 feet may set you back $400 to $500. A 22lb stainless steel Delta can be over $700. That said, you can find many Deltas for smaller boats that cost between $100 and $200.

Box anchors are a relatively new anchor design but have proven to also be extremely versatile. They are not designed for any specific size of boat and seem to work well with all kinds. They say you can even anchor a houseboat with box anchors.

• Description: They are designed in a box shape lined with hooks or flukes along the outside edges. It works in any bottom condition by digging into harder surfaces or scraping softer ones to fill the box and add weight. Because of how this anchor sets, you may need less anchor line to use it.
• Boat Type: Potentially any boat, though it may be overkill for smaller vessels.
• Ideal For: Any seabed
• Bad For: May be unnecessary for smaller vessels
• Advantages: The box anchor uses less line than a traditional anchor and can hold a 45-degree angle. The down-facing flukes can dig into the seabed without catching on debris, and the anchor can also reset itself when it comes loose. The box anchor can set almost immediately after dropping it. It offers some extreme holding power with less anchor rode than many other modern anchors, making it one of the more popular up-and-coming anchor styles.
• Disadvantages : Because they’re so new, they are not as well tested or trusted yet, and they can also get a little pricey, especially for casual boaters or those with smaller vessels. 
• Cost : You can get box anchors from about $100 for a basic version up to around $300 for a stainless steel one.

Shallow Water Anchor or Power Pole

Power pole anchors work automatically by using what looks like a hydraulic arm to raise and lower the pole and root it in place. A DIY shallow water anchor can be as simple as a fiberglass pole attached to the hull with a clamp. 

• Description: Unlike a standard anchor attached to a line and dropped overboard, a shallow water anchor is essentially just a pole extending from the side of the hull down to the surface below the water. Because it’s for use in shallow water, it anchors the boat directly to the ground below without requiring a line.
• Boat Type: These anchors are often used on jon boats , flats boats , or any vessel used for fishing in very shallow water.
• Ideal For: Shallow water
• Bad For: Deep water, larger rocks.
• Advantages: With a power pole set up, these anchors can be set into nearly any kind of bottom and then released again in just moments. They also offer an extremely secure hold that roots the boat in place to ensure minimal movement while fishing. DIY poles are often cheap and easy to make, and many video tutorials are online.
• Disadvantages: A Power Pole type boat anchor can be a major investment, and not every boater wants to put that much money into an anchor. By the same token, a DIY version will be cheaper but may take some time and effort to produce, and also you may need to do some trial and error to get it to work.
• Cost: Power Poles can cost over $2000 and also require maintenance. A DIY pole, however, can cost you $20 or $30 depending on the design.

The Bottom Line

There are a number of types of anchors which work with whatever sized boat you have and whatever surface you are trying to anchor in. It’s always important to test your anchor out to make sure it meets your needs, can hold your boat, and is easy for you to both set and release when needed. 

Most anchors don’t cost a lot of money but some larger or more complex designs can set you back a considerable sum of money so make sure you’re investing in something you truly need before committing to any purchase. 

My grandfather first took me fishing when I was too young to actually hold up a rod on my own. As an avid camper, hiker, and nature enthusiast I'm always looking for a new adventure.

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Which Anchor Is Right For You?

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There are a plethora of types and brands to choose from. Here's a guide to help you select the best one for your needs.

All anchors are designed to hold your boat in place by using the weight of the anchor, hooking the bottom, burying into the bottom, or a combination of all three. That said, choosing the right one relies on a number of considerations, from the style and size of your boat to the type of bottom you'll be anchoring in (e.g., mud, grass, sand, rock), as well as wind and water conditions you expect to encounter.

While an anchor's weight is important, even more so is its holding power. A modern, well-designed lightweight anchor can provide significantly more holding power than a heavy, older model that relies more on weight than design. Here's a list of common anchor types, uses, and pros and cons.

Narrow fluke, hook-type anchor relying on weight as much as how deep the flukes dig in. The traditional or fisherman's anchor (also called yachtsman anchor) is a good example.

• Versatile choice for a wide variety of bottoms depending on the width of its flukes: Narrow flukes best for rock, coral, grass, hard sand. Wider flukes (often called Herreshoff anchors) better in medium to hard sand and clay bottoms
• Doesn't perform well in soft sand or mud
• Awkward to stow, though modern take-apart versions make stowage easier
• Can trip with current/wind reversal
• The "lazy" fluke can foul the rode during tide or current shifts

Burying-style anchor relying on broad flukes rather than weight for holding power. Traditional Danforth anchors and newer Fortress Marine anchors are ­popular examples.

• Large flukes hold well in clay, mud, sand
• A pipe-like stock keeps anchor from twisting and pulling out as boat shifts
• Lighter design is attractive. Popular choice for boats with dedicated anchor locker (bow riders, midsize and larger fishing boats), or those with ample on-deck storage or bow roller
• Less effective in rock and grass
• Can be difficult to retrieve once fully buried
• If direction of pull goes past 180 degrees, it likely will break free (and usually reset itself in the new direction)
• Awkward to stow on deck with lots of angles to snag lines and toes

A stockless, single-point anchor named after its shape, which resembles a farming plow. Either a hinged or solid shank. Popular examples: CQR (a name derived from "secure"), Rocna, Delta, and Manson Supreme.

• Performs well in sand, stiff mud, shell, mud/gray clay
• Many consider it the ideal overall anchor for vessels larger than 30 feet. Not the best in any one type of bottom, holds well in all
• Easiest to stow and deploy on boats with bow roller and dedicated anchor locker
• Holding can be marginal in bottoms with moderate to heavy grass.

While similar to the plow, instead of single-point penetration, claw anchors have a scoop design. Bruce and Lewmar are good examples.

• Performs well in varied bottoms (sand, mud, light grass, etc.)
• Not ideal for rocky bottoms
• Due to size and weight, claws are more easily stowed and deployed on boats with bow roller and dedicated anchor locker

Similar to those nifty clawed hooks ninjas use to climb palace walls in the dead of night, grapnel anchors typically have at least four large arms or flukes. Spike or "grabber" anchors (a variation of the grapnel) typically have five or more shorter, fixed spikes or prongs attached to a centrally weighed shaft or base.

• Popular choice for smaller craft (e.g., dinghies, kayaks, PWCs.) due to light weight and ease of stowing. Most have folding arms and can be tucked away
• Works best on rocky or weedy bottoms where arms have something to hook
• Particularly useful in heavy vegetation where one or more flukes can penetrate the bottom while the outside ones hook into the vegetation
• Poor performer in sand and mud
• Considered only a temporary anchoring solution

With its shape-derived name, the box anchor is a square unit with eight angled flukes (four per side, two each at front and back) providing holding power by maximizing surface area contact with the bottom. Once deployed, the anchor's scoop design allows the narrow panels to set cookie cutter-like into muddy bottoms.

• Popular with pontoon owners, it requires no chain, sets quickly, retrieves easily, folds flat for storage
• Easier to use than many other anchor styles when deployed. Harder to handle and stow onboard
• Not good for long-term anchoring. When anchoring in areas subject to strong current, high wind, or waves, it can tip forward releasing the back "teeth," reducing holding power.

Named for its shape, resembling an upside-down mushroom, the holding power comes from the weight and the bottom suction generated once buried. Often used as mooring anchors. Models designed as boat anchors (vice moorings) will have holes or slits in the circular bowl or "cap" area to help release this suction and make retrieval easier.

• Works best in silt or muddy bottoms
• Ideal for canoes, jon boats, other small craft
• Not good for bottoms where it will have trouble burying itself (rock, weeds, hard sand)

Derived from the mushroom anchor and similar in shape, it has broad flukes rather than a simple bowl-shaped mushroom cap. These flukes (with rounded, rather than pointed ends) allow the anchor to grab, hold, and penetrate the bottom better than regular mushrooms.

• Works well in soft bottoms, but in a pinch can give decent service on rougher bottoms (e.g., weeds, rock)
• Like the mushroom, good for use aboard canoes, jon boats, similar small craft
• Not suitable for larger boats
• Not suitable for extreme or long-term anchoring. Should only be used for short-term anchoring under moderate conditions

Anchor Pole

This flexible "spike" lets you silently "spud down" over your favorite shallow-water anchorage (8 feet or less). It's deployed via a folding hydraulic arm. One anchor pole can hold you in place, but installing two allows you to temporarily position the boat regardless of prevailing wind and current directions.

• Typically found on bass boats. Can be installed on most any fishing boat anchoring in shallow waters
• Not suitable for extreme or long-term anchoring. Should be used short-term under moderate conditions only

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Anchor Types for Boats: A Comprehensive Guide

by Emma Sullivan | Aug 4, 2023 | Sailboat Tips and Tricks

Short answer: Anchor types for boats include Danforth, Plow, Claw, Mushroom, and Fluke anchors. Each type has its own design and suitability for different seabed conditions and boat sizes. It is crucial to choose the right anchor type to ensure secure anchoring and safe boating experience.

The Ultimate Guide to Anchor Types for Boats: Everything You Need to Know

Welcome to our ultimate guide to anchor types for boats! If you’re a boating enthusiast or someone who is just starting out in the world of boating, then understanding different anchor types and their uses is essential. Anchors play a crucial role in ensuring the safety and stability of your boat , whether you’re enjoying a relaxing day on the water or facing rough weather conditions.

So, let’s dive right in and explore the various anchor types available, along with everything you need to know about them.

1. Fluke/Plow Anchor: The fluke or plow anchor is one of the most common types found on boats due to its versatility. This traditional design consists of multiple sharp hooks that dig into the seabed. It offers excellent holding power in sand and mud bottoms, making it ideal for coastal boating adventures .

2. Claw/Bruce Anchor: The claw or Bruce anchor has gained popularity among boaters for its reliability and easy use. Its unique shape resembles a claw or hook, which helps it grip various seabeds effectively. This type excels in rocky or weedy bottoms where other anchors may struggle to hold.

3. Danforth/Fluke Anchor: Another popular choice for recreational boaters is the Danforth or fluke anchor . Its lightweight yet robust construction makes it easy to handle and store on board. Known for its ability to hold well in sandy bottoms, this anchor features broad flukes that dig deep into the substrate, providing secure anchorage against shifting tides.

4. Mushroom Anchor: If you primarily engage in small craft activities like kayaking or fishing, a mushroom anchor could be your go-to option. Shaped like an upside-down mushroom, this type relies on weight rather than grappling hooks to keep your boat secured in calm waters where strong currents aren’t present.

5. Grapnel Anchor: Designed with versatile capability in mind, grapnel anchors are often used by dinghies or small boats . This anchor features multiple tines that can catch on various objects, such as rocks or reefs, making it useful for temporary anchoring during short stops or emergencies.

6. Navy Anchor: Traditionally used by larger vessels and sailboats, the navy anchor showcases a classic design with exceptional holding power. Its heavy iron construction provides stability in rough seas and rocky bottoms. While it may require extra effort to handle due to its weight, this anchor remains a reliable choice for long-term mooring .

Remember, choosing the right anchor should be based on several factors such as the size and weight of your boat, prevailing weather conditions in your boating area, and the type of seabed you typically encounter. Having multiple anchor types onboard ensures you’re prepared for any conditions you may face during your boating adventures.

So there you have it – our comprehensive guide to different anchor types for boats! Whether you’re setting sail for a leisurely day at sea or embarking on an extended voyage, understanding these anchors and their functionalities will help ensure your safety while enjoying the vast beauty of the water!

Happy boating!

How to Choose the Right Anchor Type for Your Boat: A Step-by-Step Process

As any seasoned sailor or boating enthusiast knows, having the right anchor for your boat is crucial. It can mean the difference between staying safely in place or being at the mercy of unpredictable currents and winds. With an overwhelming array of anchor types available in the market, selecting the perfect one may seem like a daunting task. However, fear not! In this guide, we will take you through a step-by-step process to help you make an informed decision and select the ideal anchor type for your boat .

Step 1: Assess Your Boating Needs The first step in choosing the right anchor type is understanding your specific boating needs. Are you predominantly sailing in calm waters or braving rough seas? Do you have a large yacht or a small fishing boat ? Consider factors such as boat size, weight, and operating conditions to determine what type of anchoring challenges you are likely to face.

Step 2: Research Anchor Types Once you have identified your boating needs, it’s time to dive into researching various anchor types available. Common anchor types include Danforth anchors, Claw anchors, Plow anchors, and Mushroom anchors – each designed with unique features to suit different conditions. Learn about their strengths and weaknesses; understand their holding power on different seabeds as well as under varying weather conditions.

Step 3: Consult Fellow Boaters and Experts Take advantage of the wealth of knowledge that experienced sailors possess by consulting fellow boaters or experts in the field. They can offer invaluable insights into which anchor types work best based on their personal experiences and expertise. Engaging with online forums or visiting local marinas where boaters congregate can expand your perspective further.

Step 4: Evaluate Your Budget Anchors come in various price ranges depending on their size, material composition, and manufacturing quality. Carefully evaluate your budget and seek the best value-for-money anchor type that fits within your financial limitations. Remember, while price is an important factor, compromising on quality can ultimately cost you more in terms of safety and future replacements.

Step 5: Consider Anchor Weight Matching anchor weight to your boat size is crucial for optimal performance . As a rule of thumb, industry experts recommend using approximately one pound (0.45 kg) of anchor weight for every foot (30 cm) of boat length. However, keep in mind that this is a general guideline and may vary depending on unique circumstances such as windage or tidal currents .

Step 6: Determine Suitable Anchoring Techniques Different anchoring techniques may require different types of anchors. For example, if you plan on frequenting rocky seabeds or strong currents, a plow-style anchor might be more suitable due to its ability to penetrate difficult surfaces effectively. Understanding the anchoring techniques you will employ most frequently can help narrow down your options.

Step 7: Consider the Material The material from which an anchor is constructed plays a significant role in both durability and performance. Common materials used are stainless steel, galvanized steel, aluminum alloys, and even high-strength plastics. Factors such as corrosion resistance and strength should be taken into account based on your boating environment – saltwater versus freshwater.

Step 8: Seek User Reviews Before making a final decision, read user reviews online or talk directly with other boaters who have firsthand experience with specific anchor types you are considering. Genuine user feedback can provide insights into how well an anchor performs in real-life scenarios – something that cannot always be gleaned from manufacturer’s claims alone.

By following these step-by-step guidelines, you’ll equip yourself with the knowledge needed to choose the right anchor type for your boat confidently. Remember that there is no one-size-fits-all solution; what works well for someone else may not necessarily be the perfect fit for you. Take your time, research thoroughly, and prioritize safety above all else when making this vital decision for your boating adventures . Happy sailing!

Frequently Asked Questions about Anchor Types for Boats: Find the Answers Here!

Title: Frequently Asked Questions about Anchor Types for Boats: Find the Answers Here!

Introduction: Selecting the right anchor type for your boat is crucial to ensure it stays securely in place, allowing you to relax and enjoy your maritime adventures without worries. With an abundance of anchor options available in the market, it’s natural to have questions about which one suits your needs best. In this blog post, we will answer some frequently asked questions about different anchor types, providing you with a detailed, professional, witty, and clever explanation. Let’s delve into the world of boat anchors together!

1. What are the main types of boat anchors ? When it comes to boat anchors, there are several popular types worth considering. The most common ones include fluke (Danforth), plow (CQR), claw (Bruce), mushroom, and grapnel anchors. Each design has unique characteristics that make it suitable for specific boating conditions.

– Fluke Anchors: These traditional lightweight anchors excel in sandy or muddy bottoms due to their ability to effectively bury themselves. – Plow Anchors: Renowned for their versatility and holding power in various seabeds like sand, mud or grassy areas. – Claw Anchors: Combining strength and excellent holding capacity on a variety of bottom surfaces such as rock or coral. – Mushroom Anchors: Ideal for small boats or personal watercrafts in calm waters like lakes or ponds. – Grapnel Anchors: Perfect for short-term anchoring on rocky bottoms where other anchors may struggle.

2. Are all anchor types suitable for all boat sizes? While some anchor designs work well across various boat sizes, others perform better in specific categories depending on size and weight distribution. For small recreational boats or personal watercrafts, light-duty anchors like mushroom or fluke are often sufficient. Medium-sized sailboats typically benefit from plow-style anchors. Larger vessels might require multiple heavy-duty plow or claw anchors to distribute the load effectively.

3. How do I choose an anchor size appropriate for my boat ? Finding the right anchor size is primarily determined by your boat’s length, weight, and wind conditions in your typical boating area. It is generally recommended to follow anchor manufacturers’ guidelines that provide a suggested size chart based on these factors. However, it’s important to note that different manufacturers might have slightly different recommendations. When in doubt, it’s wise to opt for a slightly larger size for added peace of mind during adverse weather conditions .

4. Can I rely solely on one anchor type or should I consider having multiple anchors? Having multiple anchors of various types and sizes has its advantages when boating in diverse locations with contrasting seabeds. Depending on the anchorage requirements of each destination, you can select the most suitable anchor from your arsenal to ensure optimal holding power and increased security.

5. Do all boats require an anchoring system or are there alternatives? While most boats benefit from using traditional anchors, some vessels opt for alternative systems like automatic or electric anchoring devices designed specifically for their type and purpose . These systems offer convenience and ease of use but may not always be suitable for all boating scenarios due to limitations in certain areas or unpredictability of environmental factors.

In conclusion, understanding anchor types is essential when it comes to securing your boat safely while enjoying your maritime adventures. By choosing the right anchor design, size, and considering alternatives if necessary, you can navigate the waters confidently without concerns about drifting away unexpectedly. Remember to consult manufacturer guidelines, take local conditions into account, and stay informed about any updates within the industry.

Understanding Different Anchor Types for Boats: Exploring Pros and Cons

Ah, anchors – the unsung heroes of every seafarer’s journey. These heavy metal wonders play a vital role in keeping boats secure, preventing them from drifting aimlessly in the vast open waters . But with a plethora of anchor types available today, choosing the right one can be quite the conundrum. Fear not; in this article, we will dive into the intricacies of various anchor types, exploring their pros and cons. So grab your life vest and let’s set sail on this anchor adventure !

1. Fluke Anchors: Let’s begin with the classic choice – fluke anchors. Recognized by their two curved “flukes,” these anchors are versatile and commonly used in recreational boating . Their lightweight design makes them easy to handle, while their ability to hold well in mud or sand makes them suitable for most conditions.

Pros: – Versatile: Fluke anchors perform admirably in sandy or muddy bottoms. – Easy to stow: Their compact size allows for convenient storage on board. – Efficient holding power: Fluke anchors offer reliable grip when properly set .

Cons: – Limited use: While great for sandy or muddy bottoms, fluke anchors may struggle in rocky or grassy terrains. – Less efficient in shifting currents: The lightweight nature of fluke anchors means they might drag more easily when current direction changes.

2. Plow Anchors: Moving on from flukes, we venture into plow territory! Plow anchors possess a distinctive shape reminiscent of a…well…plow (surprise!). These robust beasts provide excellent holding power even under challenging conditions.

Pros: – Superior strength: Plow anchors excel in gripping rock beds or grassy areas. – Suitable for various seabeds: With their sharp edge design, plows adapt well to different bottom compositions. – Good reset capability: In case the anchor gets dislodged, plow anchors are known to reposition themselves efficiently.

Cons: – Clunky weight: The significant weight of plow anchors can be cumbersome to handle during deployment and retrieval. – Requires ample storage space: Due to their bulkiness, stowing plow anchors might be a challenge on smaller boats .

3. Claw Anchors: Now it’s time to unravel the mystery behind claw anchors – the perfect balance between performance and convenience. Resembling an actual claw, these anchors offer an excellent combination of holding power and ease of use.

Pros: – Versatile capabilities: Claw anchors are efficient in various bottom compositions, including sand, mud, or even rocks. – Quick-setting feature: Their unique design allows for rapid engagement with the seabed. – Compact storage: Claw anchors are often foldable or collapsible, making them ideal for boats with limited space.

Cons: – Limited reset function: While they set quickly, claw anchors might require additional resetting if they break free due to shifting conditions. – Not suitable for very soft bottoms: In extremely soft mud or silt areas, claws may struggle to obtain sufficient grip.

4. Mushroom Anchors: Don’t let their seemingly whimsical appearance fool you; mushroom anchors mean business! With broad flat heads resembling—you guessed it—a mushroom cap, these specialized tools are predominantly used in permanent moorings.

Pros: – Stable positioning: Mushroom anchors bury themselves deeply into the seabed due to their broad surface area, ensuring remarkable stability. – Suitable for sandy/muddy/soft terrains: They excel in bottoms where other types may struggle. – Low impact on marine environment: These environmentally friendly anchors minimize damage to delicate underwater ecosystems.

Cons: – Immobile by design: Mushroom anchors are not recommended for cruising purposes as their deep-seated nature makes them challenging to retrieve if needed. – Specialized usage scenario: Unless you require a permanent mooring, a mushroom anchor might not be the most practical option.

Now that we’ve ventured through the fascinating world of anchor types, armed with knowledge of their pros and cons, you can make an informed decision for your boating adventures . Remember, choosing the right anchor is crucial to ensure a safe and enjoyable journey on the high seas. So hoist those sails, set sail confidently, and let your chosen anchor be the steadfast companion in every nautical endeavor!

Mastering Anchoring Techniques with Various Anchor Types for Boats

When it comes to boating, one skill that every sailor must master is anchoring. Whether you are planning to spend a peaceful day out on the water or you are embarking on a multi-day adventure, knowing how to anchor your boat securely is crucial. In this blog post, we will delve into the world of anchoring techniques and explore the various anchor types you can use to keep your boat in place.

Anchoring is more than just dropping an anchor overboard and hoping for the best. It requires careful consideration of factors such as wind, current, and bottom conditions. By understanding these variables and using the right anchor type for the specific conditions, you can ensure both your safety and peace of mind while enjoying your time on the water.

Let’s start by exploring some popular anchor types:

1. Fluke Anchor: This traditional style anchor is commonly used in smaller boats or non-critical situations. Its design features sharp-pointed flukes attached to a shank, allowing it to dig into sandy or muddy bottoms effectively. While fluke anchors may not be suitable for heavy-duty applications, they are reliable in calm conditions.

2. Plow Anchor: Also known as CQR anchors, plow anchors offer excellent holding power due to their sharp blade-like shape that allows them to penetrate different types of seabeds including sand, mud, grass, and even rocky bottoms. Their self-aligning ability ensures a strong grip even when there are sudden changes in wind direction.

3. Danforth Anchor: With its distinctive two-fluke design attached to a stock at one end and flat triangular blades at the other end, Danforth anchors provide immense holding power in sandy or muddy bottoms thanks to their large surface area. However, they might struggle with rocky or grassy bottoms where they can become entangled easily.

4. Claw Anchor: This modern alternative combines the best features of plow and fluke anchors . Its concave shape allows for easy penetration into different bottom conditions while providing a secure hold. Claw anchors are often recommended for boaters who navigate challenging conditions or need to anchor in strong currents.

5. Mushroom Anchor: Unlike previous anchor types, mushroom anchors are specifically designed for soft bottoms such as silt or clay. Featuring a wide head and slender stalk, they create significant suction that keeps your boat in place. While they may not be suitable for all situations, mushroom anchors excel in calm waters with minimal currents.

Now that we have explored some popular anchor types, let’s dig into anchoring techniques:

1. Setting the Anchor: When dropping your anchor, ensure it reaches the seabed without any obstructions like rocks or vegetation preventing proper engagement. Avoid a free-fall approach, instead, slowly lower the anchor while allowing the rode (the chain/rope connecting your boat to the anchor) to unravel smoothly .

2. Scope: The scope refers to the ratio between how much rode you release relative to the depth of water where you are anchoring. For most boating situations, a 3:1 scope is a safe starting point (for every foot of water depth , let out three feet of rode). In areas prone to heavy winds or current shifts, increasing the scope to 5:1 or even more can provide added security.

3. Securing an Anchor: Once your anchor is set and you have paid out enough rode with an appropriate scope, apply backward pressure on your boat using reverse throttle action to confirm if it has securely dug into the bottom. This technique known as “backing down” ensures a reliable hold before shutting off your engine.

4. Checking Holding Power: Regularly monitor whether your anchor remains firmly set by observing landmarks onshore or using GPS technology onboard. If you notice significant movement or dragging despite wind shifts, it may be an indication that you need to reset or consider changing anchor types based on the current bottom conditions.

By understanding different anchor types and mastering anchoring techniques, you can enjoy worry-free boating experiences while ensuring the safety of your boat and crew. Remember, practice makes perfect, so embrace every opportunity to refine your skills and become a seasoned sailor capable of tackling any anchoring challenge that comes your way.

Tips and Tricks for Anchoring Success: Choosing the Perfect Anchor Type for your Vessel

When it comes to anchoring your vessel, there is no one-size-fits-all solution. The type of anchor you choose can greatly impact the success of your anchoring endeavors. With so many different options available, it can be overwhelming to determine which anchor type is best suited for your particular vessel . To help you navigate through this sea of choices, we have compiled a list of tips and tricks to ensure you select the perfect anchor type for your needs.

1. Understand Your Vessel Before diving into the world of anchors, take some time to fully understand your vessel’s characteristics . Factors such as size, weight, and windage should all be considered when selecting an anchor. A lightweight dinghy will require a different type of anchor than a heavy cruising sailboat .

2. Assess Your Operating Conditions The conditions in which you will most frequently anchor play a vital role in determining the appropriate anchor type for your vessel. Consider factors such as seabed types (sand, mud, or rocky), tidal currents, and prevailing weather patterns. Different anchors perform better under specific conditions; understanding this will give you an edge in making an informed decision.

3. Traditional Fluke Anchors – Simple Yet Effective If you are looking for a versatile and easy-to-use option that works well in sandy or muddy bottoms, fluke anchors are an excellent choice. They offer good holding power and are commonly seen on small recreational boats due to their simplicity and reliability.

4. Plow Anchors – Reliable Performance in Various Conditions Built with efficiency and versatility in mind, plow anchors excel in most seabed types including sand, mud, or grassy bottoms. These reliable performers dig into the substrate with their sharp pointed tip and provide exceptional holding power even during strong currents or high winds .

5. Claw Hooks – Holding Power Par Excellence Claw anchors, also known as Bruce-style anchors, are characterized by their unique claw-like design. This type of anchor is particularly useful when anchoring in rocky or coral-filled bottoms due to its ability to securely hook onto obstructions and provide unmatched holding power.

6. Stainless Steel Anchors – The Optimal Choice for Durability If you prioritize durability and strength, investing in a stainless steel anchor is highly recommended. These anchors are corrosion-resistant, making them ideal for long-term use in saltwater environments. However, bear in mind that they can be heavier and more costly compared to other options.

7. Seek Professional Advice When in doubt or faced with complex anchoring needs such as extreme weather conditions or specific vessel requirements, consulting with a marine professional is wise. They possess the expertise required to guide you through the selection process and ensure you find an anchor tailored precisely to your situation.

Remember, selecting the perfect anchor type for your vessel involves careful consideration of various factors ranging from vessel characteristics to operating conditions. By following our tips and tricks, you’ll be well-equipped to make an informed decision that will ultimately contribute to your anchoring success on every voyage. So prepare yourself for smooth sailing ahead by choosing the right anchor type – bon voyage!

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• Anchoring for boats: A comprehensive guide

If you're setting sail on a boat, understanding the ins and outs of anchoring is crucial. Anchors play a pivotal role in keeping your vessel secure, whether you're in a tranquil harbor or facing challenging seas. In this comprehensive guide, we'll delve into all things related to boat anchors, from types and techniques to essential tips for safe anchoring.

Types of boat anchors

When it comes to boat anchors, various types are available, each designed for specific conditions and seabeds. Let's explore some common types:

1. Danforth anchor

The Danforth anchor, also known as the fluke anchor, is revered for its exceptional holding power, particularly in soft and sandy seabeds. Its design, characterised by sharp triangular flukes, facilitates deep penetration into the substrate, ensuring reliable anchorage even in calm waters with minimal tidal movement. This anchor's effectiveness is further enhanced by its lightweight construction, making it a preferred choice for smaller vessels and recreational boating activities. Additionally, the Danforth anchor's collapsible design enables easy storage and deployment, adding to its practicality and versatility on board.

2. Plow anchor

Plow anchors, represented by renowned designs such as the CQR (Coastal Quick Release) and Delta, are renowned for their versatility and rapid setting capabilities across diverse seabed conditions. Featuring a single large fluke resembling a plough, these anchors excel in gripping various substrates, including sand, mud, and gravel, making them favoured choices for boaters navigating different coastal environments. The CQR's innovative hinge mechanism allows it to pivot and self-align with changes in the seabed, ensuring optimal holding power even in shifting conditions. Similarly, the Delta anchor's robust construction and sharp tip enable it to penetrate and set quickly, providing reliable anchorage for vessels of various sizes.

3. Claw anchor

Claw anchors, epitomised by designs like the Bruce and Lewmar models, are specially engineered to conquer challenging seabeds characterised by rocks, weeds, or debris. Their unique configuration, featuring multiple curved flukes resembling claws, allows them to penetrate and grip uneven or obstructed surfaces effectively. This attribute makes claw anchors indispensable for boaters exploring rocky coastlines, shallow reefs, or areas prone to seaweed entanglement. The Bruce anchor, in particular, is celebrated for its exceptional holding power and reliability, making it a preferred choice for offshore cruising and long-term anchoring. Similarly, Lewmar's claw anchors are revered for their durability and performance in demanding marine environments, offering peace of mind to sailors and adventurers alike.

4. Mushroom anchor

Mushroom anchors are compact, weighted anchors ideally suited for lightweight boats, canoes, or small watercraft. Their design features a wide, flat bottom resembling a mushroom cap, which sinks into the seabed to provide stability and secure holding in calm conditions. While not suitable for anchoring in high winds or strong currents, mushroom anchors offer a practical solution for temporary mooring or securing vessels in sheltered waters. Their simplicity and ease of use make them popular choices for recreational boating activities, where lightweight and portable anchoring options are preferred. Additionally, mushroom anchors are less likely to damage delicate substrates or cause environmental disturbances, making them environmentally friendly alternatives for anchoring in sensitive marine ecosystems.

Anchoring techniques

Proper anchoring involves more than just dropping an anchor into the water. Here are essential techniques to master:

1. Setting the anchor

Setting the anchor involves a careful process to ensure a secure hold. Begin by lowering the anchor to the seabed slowly while allowing the boat to drift back with the wind or current. This gradual descent facilitates proper embedding of the anchor into the seabed substrate. As you lower the anchor, pay out enough anchor rode (chain or line) to create a scope ratio of 7:1, providing optimal holding power. A sufficient scope allows the anchor to set more effectively and reduces the risk of dragging or dislodging in changing conditions.

2. Setting the hook

Once the anchor reaches the seabed, it's crucial to set the hook firmly for maximum holding power. Apply reverse throttle to the engine, gently pulling the boat back against the anchor. You'll know the anchor is properly set when you feel resistance and observe the boat pulling back while the anchor holds firm. This resistance indicates that the anchor has dug into the seabed and established a secure grip, ensuring stability even in challenging conditions.

3. Monitoring swing radius

Maintaining awareness of your boat's swing radius is essential to prevent collisions with other vessels or obstacles while at anchor. Continuously monitor your surroundings and the movement of your boat in response to wind, current, and tide. Use fixed landmarks onshore or GPS systems to track your position relative to your anchor point. By monitoring your swing radius, you can proactively adjust your position if necessary to avoid potential hazards and ensure safe anchorage throughout your stay.

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Essential anchoring tips

1. weather awareness.

Remain constantly vigilant and attuned to weather changes, as they can significantly impact the safety and security of your vessel. Be particularly mindful of forecasts predicting strong winds or storms, as these conditions can pose serious risks to anchored vessels. Ensure that your anchor is adequately secured and prepared to withstand the anticipated weather conditions. Regularly check weather updates and take proactive measures to safeguard your vessel and crew.

2. Routine inspections

Regular inspections of your anchor, chain, and rode are essential to maintaining their integrity and ensuring reliable performance. Over time, exposure to saltwater and environmental factors can cause wear and corrosion, compromising the effectiveness of these crucial anchoring components. Therefore, it's imperative to conduct routine checks to identify any signs of damage or deterioration promptly. Replace any worn or damaged components without delay to prevent potential anchor failure and mitigate risks while anchoring.

3. Proper storage

Effective storage of your anchor is vital for both safety and convenience on board your vessel. Improperly stowed anchors can pose hazards to crew members and damage to the vessel itself. Utilise dedicated anchor lockers or secure mounting systems to store your anchor safely when not in use. Ensure that the storage location is easily accessible and well-secured to prevent accidental dislodgement or shifting during rough seas or sudden manoeuvres. By prioritising proper storage practices, you can minimise the likelihood of accidents and ensure the efficient deployment of your anchor when needed.

4. Emergency procedures

Familiarise yourself and your crew with emergency anchor release procedures to be prepared for unforeseen circumstances requiring rapid anchoring. In emergency situations such as engine failure or loss of steering control, deploying the anchor quickly and effectively can be crucial for preventing drift, collision, or grounding. Establish clear protocols and designate responsibilities for emergency anchoring, including the location of emergency anchor release mechanisms and the steps for their activation. Regularly review and practise these procedures to ensure swift and coordinated responses in times of crisis.

5. Anchor type selection

Ensure you select the appropriate anchor type tailored to your vessel and the prevailing conditions you anticipate. Different anchor designs excel in specific seabeds and weather conditions. For example, a plough anchor proves effective in muddy bottoms, whereas a Danforth anchor is better suited for sandy or rocky substrates. Understanding the strengths of your anchor enhances its performance and guarantees a reliable hold.

6. Scope calculation

Calculate the correct scope, the ratio of anchor rode length to water depth, to guarantee adequate holding power. As a general guideline, employ a scope of 7:1 in calm conditions and extend it up to 10:1 in rough seas. Sufficient scope facilitates proper anchor setting and offers superior resistance against dragging or dislodgement.

7. Setting technique

Master the technique of firmly setting your anchor. Upon dropping the anchor, slowly manoeuvre your vessel in reverse while paying out the rode, enabling the anchor to embed into the seabed. Once the desired length of rode is reached, secure it and gradually increase engine power in reverse to set the anchor securely. This method ensures a robust hold and minimises the risk of anchor drag.

8. Monitoring and adjustment

Regularly monitor your vessel's position to confirm the anchor's secure hold. Utilise onshore visual references or GPS systems to track any movement. Should any dragging or shifting be detected, consider readjusting your position by resetting the anchor or deploying additional anchors for added stability. Remain vigilant to changing conditions and make necessary adjustments to maintain a safe anchorage.

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Boat Anchor Types: A Complete Guide

Table of Contents

Last Updated on January 11, 2024 by Boatsetter Team

To live out your boating dreams, it is important to ensure your  safety  and ensure that you have the best anchor. Anchors are essential for any boating activity and crucial for any experienced or amateur boater. By mastering the fundamentals of safe anchoring, you will safeguard your boating experiences from any accidents or anxiety. This guide will help you choose your ultimate anchor and provide tips for choosing which boat anchor is right for you. After choosing the anchor that is your right fit, you will be able to have smooth sails ahead and enjoy a stress-free time with friends and family.

Knowing the Ropes

Knowing your whole anchor system will be essential in shopping for an anchor. The anchor system is comprised of the chain, rope, shackle, and deck cleats along with the anchor. Each of these items must deliver the quality, performance, and strength that you need to anchor your boat .

Your Anchor Line: The Anchor Rode

Using a short anchor chain and three-strand nylon line will greatly reduce loads of shocks on your boat and the anchor system. Nylon is very elastic and helps reduce shockwaves or damage to the boat. Avoid anchor rodes that use all chains because they will lack the shock-absorbing qualities of nylon rope when the winds increase. The chain protects the line from chafing on the seabed.

If regularly anchoring in 25-ft of water or less, use 6 ft of chain. In greater depths, use an additional 6 ft for every 25-ft of water depth.

Holding Power

You have to make sure that the  anchor  you choose will support the boat you are operating and will fit the conditions of the environment you will be boating in. Choosing the right anchor for the type of boat you operate and the type of wind conditions you will be encountering is essential for boating safely. You must be certain that your anchor will be able to hold your boat. Here are three different types of anchors and rules of thumb for the durability of an boat anchor.

• Lunch Hook:  This anchor should hold a boat in a 15- knot breeze.
• Working Anchor:  This anchor should hold up to 30-knots of wind.
• Storm Anchor:  This anchor is for winds up to 42-knots of wind.

It is important to remember that as a general rule, when the wind speed doubles, the holding requirement quadruples. Be mindful of holding power requirements for different wind speeds, and use this information as a rule of thumb!

Know Your Scope

The scope is the length of the anchor line in relation to the distance of your boat’s deck to the bottom of the sea. Understanding scope is critical in anchoring and boating safely. The scope’s ratio should at least be 5:1, length to distance. When the scope increases, the anchor’s horizontal pull will also increase, which can help dig the anchor deeper into the sea bottom. When the scope decreases, the anchor’s pull will become more vertical. This can cause your boat to disturb and dislodge your anchor, especially at the height of a wave or during high tide.

If the scope’s ratio is less than 3:1, you are at risk of giving away a significant amount of control. Remember to set your anchor at a 5:1 initially. Afterward, you may shorten the scope as needed.

Power Setting the Anchor

To ensure that your anchor is thoroughly buried into the sea bottom, it is best to “Power Set” it. When you start setting the anchor into place, begin to lower it slowly into the water. As the anchor begins to descend deeper into the bottom, slowly begin to increase your anchor load with your engine to make sure it is securely buried. Remember that if you back off at any speed, you might not give the anchor a chance to bury itself into the sea bottom and ensure anchoring. You can follow and mimic the force of the wind by using the engine’s thrust to set the anchor to a predetermined load. By matching your boat’s total maximum horsepower and hull type , you can determine to what extent your boat can “Power Set” your anchor.

Anchoring in Soft Mud Bottoms

If you are anchoring in a soft mud bottom, this will greatly reduce your holding power compared to harder soils or sands. If you encounter a problem setting your anchor in this environment, then try setting the anchor at a very short scope at first. This initial scope could be a 2:1 ratio. When the anchor begins to dig in and set, slowly increase the scope to a greater ratio. An example of this could be a 5:1 ratio. Then, try to power set the anchor.

Special “mud palms” can be installed on your anchor, and it is recommended that you permanently install these “mud palms” to set your anchor in any type of bottom.

Retrieving the Anchor

Start by slowly moving the boat into a position that directly hovers over the anchor, pulling in the line as you go. When you are directly above it, shorten the line on a cleat and slowly power backward to pull the anchor out of the bottom. Do not power forward since this will require way more energy and put heavy loads on the anchor and support system.

A Summary of Anchor Types: Choosing the Right  Style  for You!

Claw anchors.

The Claw Anchor is one of the most popular anchors among boaters in North America. This anchor is a dynamic anchor that performs well in many sea bottoms, including mud, sand, rock, and coral. It has more trouble digging into harder surfaces like clay and dense grass. It has a three-claw design and sets and resets easier than other anchors. On the other hand, it has a lower holding power per pound than other anchors.

The Wing and Plow Anchor

The Wing Anchor is a hinged anchor. The Plow Anchor also has a hinged design, but the greatest difference between the Plow and Wing is that the Wing is a one-piece design. The Plow Anchor is one of the most popular anchors among bluewater cruisers despite having low holding power. However, the hinged design makes it more responsive and durable to environmental elements.

Delta Anchor

This anchor is an excellent choice for anchors that are going to be used repeatedly during stormy conditions. The self-righting design allows it to set quickly and the ballasted tip ensures that it stays in place. The Delta anchor can be said to be the most popular anchors among boats today and is the standard for boat manufacturers . Regardless of whether you want a boat anchor for a sailboat or for a pontoon boat, be sure to choose this one.

The Fluke Anchor

The Fluke Anchor is also a popular choice among boaters. The Fluke Anchor is constructed of lightweight, high-strength aluminum. The Fluke Anchor performs well in mud and sand, perhaps better than any other style. On the other hand, if not in mud or sand, The Fluke Anchor is not the best performer.

The Plow Anchor with Roll Bar

There are several Plow Anchors with roll bars that are essentially variations on the plow style anchor. The Plow Anchors with roll bars are a lot sharper than traditional Plow styles. Since the roll bars create a distinct sharpness, they can penetrate the sea bottom much easier than other anchor styles. The roll bar also helps the anchor orient itself when setting. The only downside is that these anchors can be very expensive and difficult to store.

Grapnel and Small Anchors

The Grapnel Anchor is used for small boats such as Kayaks, Canoes, etc. It is a favorite among fishers and is compact and easy to store. Grapnel’s hook onto another object for holding power yields immense holding power but can create difficulty retrieving the anchor.

Mushroom Anchors

Mushroom Anchors are often used for mooring buoys permanently because of their extreme holding power that can often hold ten times its actual weight. Silt from the sea bottom builds up over these anchors and results in this extreme holding power. However, this anchor type is not useful in temporary anchoring situations and makes more sense for permanent mooring. The exception is smaller versions of the Mushroom that can be used for small boats and anchoring while fishing.

Anchor Materials

The most common anchor materials are mild steel, high-tensile steel, stainless steel, and aluminum. Most anchors are mild/high-tensile steel. High-tensile steel is about twice as strong as mild steel, but that is not to say that it has a higher holding power, just that it is stronger. These are not corrosion resistant and need to be galvanized to prevent rust. All anchors need to be galvanized and can be pre-galvanized to prevent erosion.

Once you identify your needs and what fits best for you and your boat, you will be able to safely anchor at any desired destination!

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How to Pick a Boat Anchor: The Guide to Types, Sizes & Weights

October 20, 2023

Lakes can get choppy, and river currents can drag you along when you'd rather stay put. Having the right anchor on your boat is crucial, especially if you're busy staging for a wakeboard or ski ride .

But what type and size of anchor is best for your setup?

Types of Boat Anchors

Let's look at the most popular types of boat anchors, and look at some charts to figure out what size and weight anchor is right for you.

Fluke Anchors

Also known as a Danforth anchor, the fluke anchor is favored by lake and river boat owners for its lightweight design and excellent holding power in soft bottoms.

Fluke anchors have a rotating bar that connects the anchor to the line. Their forward-heavy profile allows the flukes to drive straight down into sand or mud. As line is laid out, the bar swivels into a horizontal position, providing good scope.

• Boat Size: 30 feet or less
• Best For: Lakes, rivers, mud and sand
• Bad For: Rocks, debris, coral, strong currents

Plow Anchors

Also called a delta anchor, the plow anchor is one of the most popular anchors on the boat market. It's simple and effective, capable of providing reliable mooring in all water conditions and most beds.

Plow anchors dig into the surface below and they provide high holding power. They set quickly, which makes them an excellent choice when strong currents and winds could otherwise quickly move your boat.

But plow anchors' large, flat fins can get stuck in debris and large rocks, so it's best to stick to softer bottoms.

• Boat Size: 70 feet or less
• Best For: Sand, mud, grass bottoms, strong winds
• Bad For: Rocky bottoms

Claw Anchors

Also known as a Bruce anchor, the claw anchor is similar to a plow anchor: It sets quickly and digs into soft bottoms, providing good holding power against currents and wind -- though not as well as a plow.

Because claw anchors use smaller pins, they're better suited in gravel and rock, affording a lower risk of catching and getting stuck where a plow anchor might get hung up.

Digger Anchors

The digger anchor excels at providing high holding power in gravel and rocky bottoms, even with strong currents and high wind. It uses a rod that partially rotates, while limiting the angle of the anchor line's scope.

As current and wind pull on the boat, the rod's limited angle pulls on the anchor's claws, pushing them further into the bottom. The digger's thin, long claws work great in virtually all bottom, including gravel and small rocks -- just avoid large debris, as the limited angle of the anchor rod prevents it from being pulled back out of a snag effectively.

• Boat Size: 40 feet or less
• Best For: Sand, mud, grass, gravel, strong winds
• Bad For: Bottoms with large debris

Navy Anchors

The classic, heavy, big navy anchor excels at providing high holding power in all waters and conditions. Its size and shape make it suitable for rocky bottoms and debris fields, as it has little risk of getting snagged.

The only problem with a navy anchor is that its benefits can become problematic for smaller vessels: Because navy anchors are large and heavy, they can be difficult to stow, and they add plenty of weight to the hull.

• Boat Size: 20+ feet
• Best For: All bottoms, currents, and weather
• Bad For: Small, light boats

Mushroom Anchors

The mushroom anchor is made for small vessels in relatively calm waters with soft bottoms. It relies on suction and sinking into sand, dirt, and mud to provide holding power. These anchors are typically found on light, electric motor-powered boats, kayaks, and dingy boats.

• Boat Size: 12 feet or less
• Best For: Soft bottoms free of rock
• Bad For: Large boats, heavy currents, rocky bottoms

River Anchors

Like the mushroom anchor, the river anchor is also intended for small vessels in lakes and rivers -- but with one exception: The river anchor works well in rocky bottoms and beds filled with debris. The wide, flat flukes work best when they can grab hold of objects on the floor. River anchors work well enough in soft bottoms, albeit with less holding power than a mushroom.

• Best For: rocky bottoms and debris fields
• Bad For: Large boats, heavy currents

Choosing The right Size Anchor

When selecting a boat anchor, it's important to consider the following factors:

The size and weight of your boat will determine the size and weight of the anchor you need. As a general rule, the heavier the boat, the larger and heavier the anchor should be.

Water and Weather

The type of weather and currents you encounter will influence your anchor choice. Different anchors perform better in different conditions, so it's important to choose one that suits your boating environment.

Conditions of Water Bed

The floor your anchor rests upon can vary wildly. Some lakes and rivers have rocky bottoms filled with debris, while others have soft silt or sand. Picking the wrong setup could mean you wind up drifting, or worse, cutting line because your anchor got stuck at the bottom.

Anchor Weight vs. Boat Size Chart

The chart above is a general guideline for selecting the appropriate anchor weight for your boat. Conditions on the water, and the weight of your boat -- regardless of its size -- could mean you need a heavier anchor.

Anchor Chain vs. Rope

When it comes to anchoring, you'd think chain is far superior to rope. But chain really only provides two advantages: It adds holding power, helping to keep your boat moored in one spot in rough water and strong currents, and it resists chafing -- it won't suffer damage from being dragged along debris and rocks.

Chain is heavy, though, so it adds weight to your craft when not being used. This isn't a concern on large, sea-going vessels. But you probably don't want that added weight when you're cruising around on the river or lake, especially when towing a wakeboard, tube, or skis.

Chain also rusts, even with regular maintenance, and it's expensive. Nowadays, synthetic anchor rope is tough and abrasion-resistant, and it withstands water and sunlight incredibly well. It's also lightweight relative to its strength, and it takes up much less space than chain.

The most effective setup combines a bit of chain near the anchor, with rope making up the rest of the line. Just a few feet of chain is needed to ensure your anchor is properly seated. This bit of chain also improves the scope of your line. "Scope?" You, say? Read on.

It's All About Scope

Rope alone will provide as much holding power as chain, so long as your scope is correct. Scope measures the ratio of the length of deployed rope (or chain) to the height from the ocean, lake, or riverbed to the anchor point on the boat.

The minimum effective scope you need to properly moor your vessel with any anchor and line is 5:1. That means if the depth from your boat's topside to the underwater floor is 5 feet, you need 25 feet of rope laid out below. This affords about 75% of the maximum holding power of your anchor and line.

A scope of 10:1, laid perfectly flat on the bed below, provides 100% holding power. Using the same 5 foot depth, you'd need 50 feet of anchor rope or chain laid out for max holding power.

Need a new anchor setup? Check out our boat anchors and anchor lines !

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7 Best Sailboat Anchors

As long as it's the right one, your sailboat anchor is the best insurance you'll ever buy.

The right sailboat anchor will depend on the type and size of your sailboat, your planned area of sailing, and the weather conditions that you expect to encounter. So there are no shortcuts but to choose the best sailboat anchors based on these factors.

Anchoring, at its core, is all about securely fastening your sailboat using the best sailboat anchor so that it doesn't float away when the winds or tides start shifting.

And whether you're planning for a day's fishing trip to your nearest lake or going for an offshore voyage, an anchor is unquestionably essential in ensuring the safety of both you and your sailboat.

A good anchor not only gives you the much-needed peace of mind but gives you the ability to securely anchor your sailboat on a nice bay, grab a quick lunch, or explore the nearby reefs.

More importantly, you'll appreciate the importance of choosing the best sailboat anchor for your boat when you have to ride out a storm.

There are lots of excellent sailboat anchors that are a great fit for your boat. The most important is to understand what makes a high-quality anchor so that you can make an informed choice when buying the best sailboat anchor for you and your vessel. This will depend on things like the size and type of your sailboat, where you want to sail to, and the projected weather and the type of bottom of where you'll be sailing at.

Needless to say, there are a lot of sailboat anchors out there that it can be very confusing. In this article, we'll discuss how to choose the best sailboat anchor for your boat. More importantly, we've done thorough research and review the best sailboat anchors just to make the process of choosing the best sailboat anchor for you as easy as possible.

Table of contents

How to Choose the Best Sailboat Anchor

Choosing the best sailboat anchor on various things such as the type and size of your boat, the type of bottom where you're planning to anchor your boat on, the weather conditions, and many more. For example, anchoring a 24-feet sailing boat on a muddy bottom will not be the same when using the same anchor when anchoring a 49-feet sailboat on a rocky bottom. More importantly, choosing the best sailboat is all about finding the right balance in terms of the size of your boat, the type of the bottom where you're sailing at, the climate conditions, and the amount of time that you're planning to be anchored.

Here is what you need to consider.

The Size of Your Boat

The size of your boat will determine the type of anchor that's appropriate based on its weight and resistance. For example, a claw anchor can be great for boats measuring between 16 feet and 50 feet. In essence, having a bigger boat will require an anchor that is bigger and has more holding power. On the other hand, a smaller anchor with less holding power will be ideal for a smaller boat.

Your Anchoring Time

The holding power of your anchor can be affected by the amount of time you are planning to anchor your boat. If you're planning to anchor your boat for longer periods, it would make a lot of sense to have an anchor with high holding power. Differently, you can go with an anchor with less holding power if you're planning to anchor your boat for a few hours.

The Bottom Type

The shape and sharpness of an anchor will determine how good an anchor can hold your boat in different types of bottoms. For example, claw anchors can struggle in rocks and corals but work perfectly in sand and mud. On the contrary, grapnel types of anchors can work great in rocks but don't work in sand or mud. It all depends on the bottom type of the area you're planning to sail at. 

Anchor Material

The type of material used in manufacturing the anchor is of great importance in terms of its functionality, reliability, and durability. Most anchors are galvanized to prevent them from rust and also for a better price. However, stainless steel anchors offer better anchors in terms of quality and aesthetics.

Without further ado, let's jump straight in.

1. Lewmar Galvanized Delta Sailing Anchor

(Best for Larger Boats)

Although several modern types of sailboat anchors have taken the anchor industry by storm, some traditional anchor designs still hold their ground today and the Lewmar Galvanized Delta Sailing Anchor is one of them. It's designed with a single, sharply pointed wedge fluke that has a similar shape to a plow and really gets into the ground. It digs down and holds so secure for larger boats measuring over 21 feet.

This is a superb sailboat anchor that performs exceptionally well on most bottom types save for rocks. You'll love the fact that it holds extremely well in softer bottoms such as sand and mud. This anchor is made from high-grade manganese steel and is galvanized with a protective layer of zinc to prevent it from rusting. It's also more light than most anchors so stowing and transportation shouldn't be a problem.

Having been a hallmark anchor for many years, this anchor guarantees reliability and will hold excellently even in stormy conditions. Launching it is also easy thanks to its ballasted tip and streamlined shank and will set the first time thanks to its self-righting design.

• ‍ Perfect for larger boats
• Very durable
• Approved by several National Lifeboat Associations
• Comes with a perpetual guarantee against breakage
• Easy to launch
• Very secure
• ‍ Quite expensive
• Requires tripping line to release it from the seabed
• Not great for rocky bottom

2. Rocna Vulcan Galvanized Anchor

(Best for Changing Weather Conditions)

As the best-selling sailboat anchor currently available in the market, it's easy to see why the Rocna Vulcan Galvanized Anchor is the most highly rated anchor by multiple independent reviewers. Built for strength and versatility, this anchor works great with a wide range of boats, which is a very unique feature. Coming in sizes ranging from 9 to 606 pounds, this anchor is so versatile and gives you the option of choosing the right size for your sailboat.

This remains the most dependable anchor in the market, especially in the roughest of conditions. It holds all types of the seabed so fast and has a roll bar that's crucial in ensuring that your boat's weight is not only distributed appropriately but the boat sets at the right angle. Its Vulcan design and sharp tip allow it to snug fit on the bow and to get right into the seabed respectively.

This is an anchor that draws the best features from traditional sailboat anchors such as spade and bagel anchors to become one of the best modern sailboat anchors out there.

• ‍ Perfect for stormy conditions
• Great for all types of seabed
• Very versatile and available in a wide range of sizes
• Perfect for all types of boats
• It has an easy storage design
• It's designed by a well-known brand
• ‍ Very expensive
• ‍ Its shank is only perfect for  bigger flukes

3. Manson Galvanized Supreme Sailing Anchor

(The Fastest Setting and Highest Holding Anchor)

If you're looking to purchase the best sailboat anchor from a well-established brand, look no further than the Manson Galvanized Supreme Sailing Anchor. This anchor has been in the market for the better part of the last two decades and still holds its ground as one of the best sailboat anchors out there. The fact that it is perfect for all types of seabed makes it a great option for sailors who are on a budget.

This sailboat anchor has an indisputable reputation all over the world as the fastest setting and highest holding anchor. This is because it's uniquely designed for extreme holding conditions thanks to its standard bow rollers and a dual operation shank that's designed with the utmost versatility in mind. Whether you're looking to anchor in mud, sand, or rocky areas, this anchor will never disappoint you.

• ‍ It has an extremely high holding power
• It's the fastest setting anchor in the market
• It's perfect for all types of seabed including rocky areas
• Its safety is guaranteed as it has passed multiple tests
• It's very durable
• Designed for extreme weather conditions
• ‍ It's heavy, which can bring difficulties in stowing and transportation
• Very expensive

4. Danforth S-600 Standard Sailing Anchor

(Best for Smaller Boats)

At this point, you shouldn't have any doubt that some of the more traditional types of anchors still have a place in the anchor industry today. The Danforth S-600 Standard Sailing Anchor is a traditional fluke anchor that's extremely perfect for smaller boats but can also be used as a secondary anchor for larger boats. Having been developed in the US back in the 1940s, this type of anchor is similar to the modern CQR anchor and doesn't compromise on quality and reliability even in rough weather conditions.

It's lighter than most anchors, so stowing or transporting it shouldn't be a problem. In terms of its holding power, it has an excellent power-to-weight ratio and can hold quite fast in sand and mud. The fact that it is a fluke type of anchor makes it not perfect for coral, rock, or gravel bottoms.

• ‍ Perfect for smaller boats
• It's good for sandy and muddy substrates
• Lightweight and compact
• Has a holding power of about 600 pounds
• Constructed with high-strength galvanized steel
• Quite affordable 
• ‍ Not ideal for rock, coral, or gravel substrates
• Can only be used as a secondary anchor on larger boats (over 27 feet)
• It has moving parts

5. Lewmar Claw Anchor

(Best for All Types of Seabed)

If you're looking for the best sailboat anchor that will serve you perfectly in all types of substrates, the Lewmar Claw Anchor can be an ideal choice. Previously known as the Bruce or Claw type anchor, this anchor has a three-pronged design that enables it to easily set in any bottom. It doesn't matter whether you want to anchor in an area with mud, sand, rock, coral, gravel, or grassy bottom, this anchor will hold its ground.

It can be a great option if you're on a tight budget and want to buy an anchor that doesn't have a complete design while going about its duty quietly. It's so versatile thanks to the fact that it's available in sizes ranging from 4.4 pounds to 44 pounds. What's more; it's made from high-grade steel and it's very durable. If anything, it draws inspiration from the anchors used in securing oil rigs in the North Sea. 

• ‍ Excellent for all types of substrates
• It's very versatile
• It's durable
• It's very affordable
• ‍ Its odd shape makes it difficult to stow

6. Mantus Galvanized Sailing Anchor

(Perfect for Dense Grassy Bottoms)

The level of functionality that the Mantus Galvanized Sailing Anchor brings to the table is unmatched. This is an anchor that offers unparalleled holding power as it can dig a lot deeper than most anchors out there.

It's strongly built but can come apart to make it a lot easy to store and transport. Its sharp-headed nose gives it maximum penetration power, though it may not hold quite well in low viscosity sea beds. This anchor is highly dependable yet very expensive so it might not be an ideal option if you're on a budget. So if functionality is your top priority when going to an area with dense grassy bottoms, it can be your ideal option. 

• ‍ Very functional and dependable
• Perfect for dense grassy bottoms
• Easy to store and transport
• Made from high-quality steel
• Comes with a lifetime warranty against breakage
• ‍ It has moving parts
• It's very expensive

7. Norestar Stainless Steel Delta/Wing Boat Sailing Anchor

(Highest Quality Anchor)

One of the most important things when in the market for a good sailboat anchor is quality. Well, the Norestar doesn't disappoint on this front as it's manufactured using the highest quality stainless steel. This stainless steel is strengthened with micron thick PVD coating that gives it a highly urbane appearance.

Its design is also one of the most popular anchoring systems in the maritime industry today. This is because it offers impeccable security and gives you the peace of mind knowing that your boat is safe at all times.

• ‍ It is self-launching
• Made from the highest quality stainless steel
• It sets easily
• Perfect for most bottoms
• It's lightweight and has no moving parts
• ‍ Not ideal for bottoms with hard sand
• Quite expensive

There you have it; these are the best sailboat anchors in the market. An anchor is one of the most crucial parts of safe sailing. Whether you're looking to moor at the harbor or to explore far-reaching areas in the water, a good anchor is your number safety and insurance while on the water.

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Daniel Wade

I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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5 Boat Anchor Types Explained (With Pictures)

I myself lost an anchor while out on the lake. It had been an accident, but we were prepared. I was so incredibly thankful we had a spare!

This article will break down the different types of anchors, their uses, and which will work best for your specific needs!

Table of Contents

1) Fluke Anchors

Let’s start with the basics!

The most common anchor used is the Fluke anchor. It is also referred to as a Danforth anchor or a Lightweight anchor.

Fluke anchors have high holding abilities attributed to their wide and flat flukes, commonly made from strong steel.

The Fluke anchors can firmly keep your boat in place. When the flukes at the end of the anchor dig themselves into the bottom with a sand bed, it uses the slight pulling forces of the boat itself to keep it in place.

This anchor type is often the anchor type used for smaller boats. As the name suggests, it is lightweight and easy to handle.

This anchor also stows flat, making it incredibly easy to store. This is important for smaller boats that may not come with high amounts of storage space.

Storage of your anchor, when not in use, is recommended. This is true for all anchor types. They are often sharp and painful when accidentally kicked or stepped on. They can also slide around if not stored properly, which could cause injury or loss of the anchor.

This is often the “go-to” anchor because you can use a lighter anchor for your boat than the weight you would need for other anchor types.

Choosing the proper Fluke anchor is dependent on the length of your particular boat. Fluke anchor weight can range from 4 pounds to 44 pounds or more.

Recommended Weight of FLUKE Anchors per Boat Length:

Some of the boat lengths that are listed above can be compatible with more than one size.

If your boat is on the heavier side or planning to anchor in more aggressive water, you will want to consider using a heavier option.

2) Plow Anchors

Another prevalent anchor type is the Plow anchor. You can tell it is a plow anchor because it will look like a large shovel or scoop.  The original maker of these anchors called them a CQR. A more modern option is called a wing anchor, like the Delta.

The Plow anchor has strong holding power in more types of bottom conditions than the Fluke anchor.

This anchor is also used on larger boats. They are more forgiving when the wind changes direction so that they re-set more easily.

This anchor can be more difficult to store than the Fluke anchor, but special chocks are available to mount them deck.  They also often fit well on bowsprit anchor rollers.  This is why some people purchase both a plow anchor and a Fluke anchor to meet the particular anchoring conditions.

Plow anchors gradually plow themselves into the bottom, burying themselves to create hold.

This anchor is designed to swivel so that change in pull does not cause it to lift out of the ground. This issue can be a problem for the Fluke anchor since it is not designed to swivel this way.

Like the Fluke anchor, choosing the proper Plow anchor depends on the length of the boat. The Plow anchor typically ranges between 26 and 60 pounds. This makes them heavier than the Fluke anchor, making them more difficult to operate but gives them more holding power.

Recommended Weight of PLOW Anchors per Boat Length:

3) Grapnel Anchors

The grapnel anchor can be either fixed or folding.  It does not have the ability to hinge or swivel. Like the Plow anchor, they use their weight to set and hold.

This anchor holds similarly sized boats as the Plow anchor but is usually used on smaller boats.  Its major disadvantage is that the upright flukes can tangle with the anchor line and pull the anchor out.

Like the Plow anchor, this anchor holds up in more bottom types than the Fluke anchor.  It does not usually hold as well as a Plow anchor, though.

Like the Plow anchor, the grapnel anchor is heavy to handle and difficult to store, unless it is the folding style.

Unlike the Plow anchor, the grapnel type anchor has some lighter options, making it a better choice for smaller boats.

The grapnel anchor type can range in weight from 13 to 66 pounds.

Recommended Weight of Grapnel Anchors Per Boat Length:

Like the Fluke anchor, if you have a heavier boat for its length or expect volatile conditions, opt for the heavier option.

4) Claw Anchor

The Claw anchor is also a popular choice because it sets easily and deals well with most types of bottoms. This includes rock, which the previous anchor types mentioned are not ideal for.

The Claw anchor has a wide three-claw design that was originally known as a Bruce anchor.

The Claw anchor, however, can be more difficult to set and hold well.  This means you may need a heavier anchor for your vessel than you would with the other options above.

Like the Plow and grapnel anchor, this anchor is heavy and awkward to stow.  But like the Plow anchor, it will often fit well on a bowsprit anchor roller.

The Claw anchor is relatively less expensive than other anchors, so it remains a popular choice among recreational boat owners.

The Claw anchor can range in weight from 6 pounds to huge industrial sizes. This is the widest range offered by all the options.

Recommended Weight of CLAW Anchors per Boat Length:

Because of the anchor’s range of holding power, quite a few options above overlap. You will want to make sure you opt for the heavier option to ensure your boat holds.

5) Scoop Anchors

The scoop anchor is the term for a number of the new generation of modern anchor designs.

The first of these designs was the Rocna, and now includes others such as Spade and Manson.  These designs are getting very popular because they work in many types of bottoms and have high holding power.

The scoop anchors have been tested thoroughly, and they will generally set and reset easier than the other options.  Because they set so well, you can often use a lighter weight.

However, the scoop anchor can be more difficult to manage and store on the deck or in a locker.

The early versions did not fit well on a bowsprit anchor roller because they had roll bars to help them set and re-set better.  Newer versions have resolved this issue.

The scoop anchor can range in weight from 6 pounds to huge industrial sizes, also.

Recommended Weight of Scoop Anchors per Boat Length:

Because the anchor’s holding power will depend on the boat’s weight and windage, it is used on quite a few options above overlap. If your boat is heavy for its length, you will want to make sure you opt for the heavier option to ensure your boat holds.

3 Factors To Choosing The Right Anchor Type

With a large variety of options, you are probably thinking: so, which one do I choose?

Most boaters agree that you should have two different styles of anchors. This will allow you to use one based on where you are and what you need.

This also allows you to set multiple anchors if needed. This can help with crowded areas or extreme weather. Setting an anchor off the front and back of your vessel can reduce your swinging range when that is important.

There are 3 factors to look at when picking the right anchor for you.

One major factor to look at is the bottom of the body of water you plan to boat in.

1) Consider The Bottom Type For Where You Are Going

This is one of the most important reasons to bring more than one anchor, especially if you are not familiar with the body of water or its bottom.

Bottom Types include:

• Sand : easy for setting and has a high hold.
• Mud : requires a deeper and wider setting for a stronghold.
• Rock/Coral : setting depends more on where you drop your anchor than what anchor you drop.
• Shale/Clay/Grasses : relies on the weight of the anchor more than its design.

Recommended Anchors For Each Bottom Type:

2) Choose The Right Anchor Size (Weight)

After you determine what type of anchor you need for where you are going, you will want to make sure you apply the size charts listed under each anchor.

This is to make sure you pick the proper weight for your particular boat.

When in doubt with any anchor I mentioned above, opt for the heavier option. This will provide more stability and security, no matter what conditions you might encounter.

Some boaters like to have one lighter anchor (a “lunch hook”) for calm conditions and a more robust anchor for overnight anchoring.

The final thing to consider is what your anchor should be made from.

3) How To Choose The Right Anchor Material

There are three common materials your anchor could be made from.

These include galvanized steel, stainless steel, and aluminum.

Some pros and cons of each metal type are as follows:

*If your galvanization begins to wear down, you can always get it re-galvanized.

Final thoughts

There are many other important considerations with anchoring correctly and confidently.

These include the size (diameter) of the line or ride; and the length of the rode for the water depth, called scope.  For instance, an all-chain rode will hold better than a short length of chain and rope.

This is another whole topic, though.

Hopefully, by using this guide, you can pick the anchor that is best for you and your boat.

The proper anchor can help you be confident while you are out on the water and gives you one less thing to worry about!

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Yachting Monthly

• Digital edition

Best anchors: 8 new generation designs suitable for every boat

• Rupert Holmes
• January 27, 2022

Most boats would benefit from upgrading to a better anchor for a host of reasons. We take a look at 8 of the best anchors on the market right now

Securing your anchor do it is ready to drop could get you out of a tight spot when you can't sail out of trouble. Credit: Theo Stocker

Good ground tackle and understanding how to anchor properly opens up the option to stay overnight in stunning bays and creeks, away from costly marinas and expensive harbour moorings. And picking the best anchors is essential in terms of safety too as you may well need it to hold you off a lee shore in the event of engine failure.

However, unless your boat’s anchor has been upgraded recently, the chances are it’s of a type that will not provide good holding power.

What to look for in a good anchor?

Much has changed in the world of anchors in the past 20 years, which led to classification societies such as Lloyds adding a new Super High Holding Power certification category for these anchors in 2008.

Most of the best anchors exceed the requirements for this by a wide margin.

These advances in anchor technology and different types of anchor mean older boats won’t have been equipped with what we would now consider to be decent ground tackle when they were new.

This is also true for most vessels built in the last 20 years. Until recently the latest generation of anchors was relatively expensive, so were generally only fitted as standard equipment to very high quality yachts.

The various brands of today’s very high holding power anchors share a number of key characteristics that make them more effective than older products.

The best anchors tend to have a concave profile akin to the shape of a shovel. This digs more firmly into the seabed without tending to act like a plough when under load.

Another important aspect to look for in a good anchor is the tip weight, as loading as much weight here as possible is a massive help in enabling it to penetrate weed and other difficult types of sea bed.

Typical new generation anchors have 35-45 per cent of their weight on the tip. Some also have roll bars that prevent the anchor landing on the seabed upside down.

Whatever anchor you choose, beware of cheap unbranded copies. These rarely have the precise geometry needed to maximise holding power. Some are also badly cast and therefore weaker than the original design.

At a glance:

Note: We may earn a commission when you buy through links on our site, at no extra cost to you. This doesn’t affect our editorial independence.

7 of the best anchors on the market right now.

Rocna Galvanised Anchor

This was one of the first of the new generation of ultra high holding power anchors and quickly gained much acclaim, despite an initially high price tag.

The Rocna is well engineered and has an excellent reputation for digging in quickly and easily. Once set it then offers excellent holding.

A roll bar is incorporated, but a downside of Rocnas is they do not stow neatly on all bow rollers.

To solve this problem the company developed the Vulcan series, which doesn’t have the roll bar and is shaped to fit on a wider range of bow rollers.

Reasons to buy:

– Good quality anchor

– Excellent holding power

Reasons to avoid:

– It is expensive

– Do not stow neatly on all bow rollers

Specifications:

– Size: 96 x 41 x 39 cm

– Weight: Available in 10kg, 20kg and 25kg

Buy it now on Amazon.co.uk

Buy it now on Amazon.com

Buy a Rocna Vulcan on Amazon.co.uk

Buy a stainless steel Rocna Vulcan on Amazon.com

Lewmar Stainless Steel Epsilon Anchor

Read PBO’s Lewmar Epsilon review

The latest model from this UK company offers the benefits of a new generation anchor at very attractive prices.

It has a winged design with concave flukes to maximise holding power in a variety of sea beds, a ballasted tip that enables it to dig in readily and is self righting, even though the roll bar is optional.

The Epsilon is intended as a direct replacement for Lewmar’s long-running plough style Delta anchor.

Although the Epsilon’s shank is proportionately shorter, the two models share the same basic shank geometry. Therefore, if a Delta fits your bow roller then an Epsilon will also fit.

– Easy to handle

– Designed to fit any bow roller that works for the Delta

– It has a shorter shank

– Size: ‎55 x 35 x 30cm

– Material: stainless steel

– Weight: ‎6.1kg

Buy it now on eBay

Buy it now from Amazon

Buy it now from West Marine (US only)

Fortress FX-11

This aluminium anchor is an older design from more than 30 years ago, but still has a number of advantages that makes it an excellent choice in some circumstances.

It’s biggest feature is very light weight relative to the holding power the anchor provides. This makes it a perfect option for performance catamarans and trimarans, as well as for smaller fast motor boats.

The key downside, however, is that the holding power is achieved through the surface area of the flukes, not the weight of the anchor. This means it’s physically larger than other anchors, although it comes apart like the Spade for easier stowage.

A neat feature is that the angle of the flukes can be varied to suit different types of sea bed.

– Perfect for catamarans and trimarans

– Easy to manoeuvre thanks to its light weight design

– Flukes can be adapted to the type of sea bed

– Larger than other anchors

– Holding power is from the surface area of flukes

– Size: ‎73.66 x 15.24 x 7.62 cm

– Material: aluminium

– Weight: 8 pounds

Spade Anchor S series

This is another popular modern anchor, but with an important difference to other brands.

The hollow shank can be removed to make stowage easier. This makes it an excellent choice for racing yachts and other vessels that don’t permanently keep the anchor on the bow, or for occasional use as a kedge.

There’s no roll bar, but the tip loading is close to 50 per cent of the total weight, which helps it to dig in and set quickly.

The main drawback of the Spade is one of cost – it’s more complex to manufacture than other designs, so the price is relatively high.

– Good option for racing yachts

– The hollow shank can be removed

– No roll bar

– Expensive

– Size: S40 to S160

– Material: galvanised steel

– Weight: 6kg to 55kg

Buy it now from Jimmy Green Marine

Knox Anchors

Professor John Knox spent a great deal of his spare time researching the loads on anchors and rodes.

His work in this area over a period of 20 years contributed a huge amount to our understanding of anchoring and precise causes of anchors dragging or breaking out.

It also led him to develop his own design of anchor that would offer significantly better performance compared to the popular models at the time. It was therefore one of the first of the new generation designs.

The Knox anchor has a patented divided fluke with sharpened edges set at an angle that enables it to dig into the seabed quickly and efficiently.

It’s fitted with a roll bar and, while the shank is made of the highest tensile strength steel available.

– Made of the highest tensile strength steel

– Patented divided fluke with sharpened edges set at an angle to dig into the seabed

– We can’t find any

– Material: highest tensile strength steel

– Weight: 6.5kg to 27kg

Buy it now from Knox Anchors

Stirrup Anchor Bugel Anchor

The Bügel was one of the very first new generation anchors and quickly set a new benchmark in the industry.

It has a flat fluke with lower surface area than later designs, plus a roll bar and a shank made of thick plate.

This makes it a relatively inexpensive anchor, which is undoubtedly a key factor behind its enormous popularity, even though later products offer higher holding power.

– Good value anchor

– It features a rollbar and shank

– Other products offer higher holding power

– Size: 66 x 28cm to 86 x 38cm

– Material: Hot-galvanised steel

– Weight: 9 to 16kg

Buy it now from compass24.com

Manson Supreme Anchor

This was the first anchor to receive Lloyds Super High Holding Power certification when the classification was introduced in 2008.

It’s a fabricated design that uses two layers of steel for the fluke and relies on a roll bar, rather than a ballasted tip, to self-right.

The upper slot in the shank is intended for use in rocky sea beds, or anchoring in coral . The idea is that if the anchor becomes stuck the rode can be slid to the shank end of the slot, enabling the anchor to be retrieved without using a tripping line.

The shape of the anchor is designed to fit all conventional anchor rollers.

– Good for use on a rocky sea bed

– The anchor fits all conventional anchor rollers

– Other products offer innovative designs compared to this classical anchor design

– Size: 18′ – 30′ to 40′ – 45′

– Weight: 7kg to 20kg

Buy it now from Marinesuperstore.com

Ultra Marine Ultra Anchor

Read Yachting Monthly’s Ultra Anchor review

Our sister title Yachting Monthly recently tested the new 12kg Ultra Anchor from Ultra Marine over several nights at anchor.

Editor Theo Stocker said: “I was impressed with how quickly the anchor set.

“While our normal 10kg Bruce anchor can struggle in soft sand and weed, the Ultra anchor buried itself almost completely and refused to drag.

“The Ultra’s performance amply delivers on its maker’s promises as is comparable to other stainless anchors,” he concluded.

– Handmade and hand-polished stainless steel

– Ready to dig in

– Not the cheapest option on this list

– Weight: 5kg to 8kg

12 Best Sailboat Anchors for Any Sailor

Having the ability to anchor out inside a nice peaceful bay or right outside of a marina avoiding all the hubbub can be an amazing feeling.

It’s an even better feeling knowing that your sailboat is securely fastened using the best sailboat anchor so that you don’t start floating away when the tide or wind starts to shift.

There are a lot of amazing anchors out there that are potentially a great fit for you and your sailboat as a primary anchor.

Having a clear understanding of what makes a good, high-quality sailboat anchor from a trusted brand means you’ll be able to make a more educated choice when deciding which anchor is best for you and your sailboat.

The Best Sailboat Anchors

Depending on your style of sailing and the whereabouts you like to explore, you may need one sailboat anchor over another.

Based on my experience, there are a lot of great options out there to choose from, which is why I put together the following list of the best sailboat anchors.

1. Rocna Vulcan Galvanized Anchor

One of the best sailboat anchors out there today based on being the best-selling anchor for yachts and workboats goes to the Rocna Vulcan Galvanized Anchor .

As one of the pioneering brands for sailboat anchors, the Rocna Vulcan was able to transform from the original Rocna anchor to the most dependable, best anchor out there today.

The Rocna Vulcan is actually a modified version of the original Rocna anchor, which was one of the most groundbreaking anchors to have been engineered and set the stage for the Rocna Vulcan.

The original Rocna anchor was designed in New Zealand back in 2004 and took the industry by storm. By taking the best features from more traditional anchor types, like the Bugel anchor and Spade anchor, it was able to set itself apart.

The Rocna Vulcan has a lot of fantastic features to it apart from being a very strong and powerful anchor. For one, it has the ability to dig into almost any type of seabed, which comes in handy when sailing in diverse locations.

It’s also relatively lightweight and easy to stow due to it not having a roll bar like its older brother, the original Rocna.

Another great feature is that it has no moving parts, so no one’s fingers have the chance of getting pinched.

When it comes to the construction material of the anchor, the Rocna Vulcan is a galvanized steel boat anchor, which means it’s very strong, long-lasting, and relatively inexpensive.

The design of this sailboat anchor allows for it to self-right itself when landing on the seabed and when being pushed around by currents and tides. It also comes with a lifetime warranty, so it’s guaranteed to last the lifetime of your sailboat.

All in all, the Rocna Vulcan is a great choice for any sailboat looking to anchor out.

Regardless of where you are, it’s highly likely you’ll be able to use your Rocna Vulcan to anchor and feel good that you have a popular, well-designed anchor manufactured by a trusted brand.

If you’re serious about getting one of the best boat anchors, definitely check it out.

2. Manson Galvanized Supreme Anchor

As one of the most famous boat anchors that were released when the original Rocna anchor came out is the Manson Galvanized Supreme Anchor .

As a matter of fact, this anchor came out in 2003 and is well known to this day as being extremely effective due to having a very high holding power, an effective roll bar, and an ability to settle to the seabed quickly.

You certainly cannot go wrong with a Manson Supreme anchor if you decide to get one. They have very high holding power, are able to dig into almost any seabed, have no moving parts, and are able to touch the seabed quickly.

While their major advantages are definitely the holding power and fast settling, this comes at the price of being rather heavy which can make stowing this anchor difficult at times.

3. Lewmar Galvanized Delta Anchor

Even though there are a number of modern anchor types that have taken the industry by storm, some of the more traditional designs still hold their weight to this day.

That’s why the Lewmar Galvanized Delta Anchor  is still on the anchor scene, especially since it’s been a hallmark anchor for a very long time.

There are a number of good reasons to go with this anchor by Lewmar especially the fact that it has a strong holding power in softer seabeds (like mud and sand).

It’s also relatively lighter than other sailboat anchors allowing for easy stowing and transportation. Another great quality is that it’s all one piece, so there’s no potential issue of pinched fingers.

The only downsides include that it sometimes requires a tripping anchor line to release it from the seabed and that it’s not ideal for hard seabeds or seabeds covered in kelp.

4. Spade Anchor S120 Galvanized Steel

Another well-known, traditional design for anchors is the Spade Anchor S120 Galvanized Steel .

This type of anchor has been around for quite some time and has proven itself as a worthy contender to even the newer, more modern anchor types.

It certainly set the stage for a lot of anchor designs today and it continues to shine even today.

The Spade anchor is a very popular style of anchor that was designed in France back in 1996.

It was based on the delta style anchor design in a way to achieve a similar grip power to the seabed but by providing an even large surface area contact to the seabed.

This sailboat anchor is lightweight and can dig into soft seabeds quite well making it a great fisherman anchor for most fishing boats.

One of the downsides is that it sometimes Spade anchors needs the assistance of a tripping line to remove it from the seabed.

5. Lewmar CQR Anchor

Of all the more traditional anchors out there today, one of the most famous that really shook the anchor industry is the Lewmar CQR Anchor .

Before the more modern sailboat anchors, the CQR anchor (or the plow style anchor generally) was the go-to anchor for many yachts and workboats.

If you’re looking for a classic, time-tested anchor, the CQR might be the anchor for you.

The CQR anchor was designed in the UK way back in 1933 and has been one of the most well-known anchors out there. It was known to be so secure (and it still is), that it was named CQR because it sounded like “secure”.

This anchor’s relatively lightweight, digs into the seabed quite well, and is rather versatile in terms of the texture of the seabed it can grip.

However, it does have some downsides including it being oddly shaped so stowing is more difficult, it has moving parts, and it sometimes requires a tripping anchor line to remove it from the seabed.

6. Lewmar Claw Anchor

Another great anchor that’s been around for a while is the Lewmar Claw Anchor , which has been known as either the Bruce or Claw anchor in the past.

The strong reputation of Claw anchors has been well-known in the anchor industry for a long time and is further proven due to being manufactured by the trusted brand Lewmar.

The Lewmar Claw anchor is a fantastic anchor to own due to it being relatively lightweight, strong, and inexpensive.

As a matter of fact, it’s one of the best sailboat anchors anyone can buy since it has a lot of positive advantages like it has no moving parts and it’s easy to remove from the seabed.

The only downsides include it having an odd shape, making it a bit more difficult to stow, and not being the best when penetrating seaweed or grass-like seabeds.

7. Danforth S-600 Standard Anchor

There’s no doubt that even some of the traditional anchors still have a place in the best anchor category and that goes double for the Danforth S-600 Standard Anchor .

Similar to the CQR anchor, this anchor has been around for quite some time and was developed in the US back in the 1940s.

As a matter of fact, they were originally manufactured to be equipped with certain landing aircraft during WW2.

The Danforth anchor is an industry standard and has been a hallmark for many decades. They’ve been used as anchors for many types of vessels and are especially good for anchoring out in loose seabeds like sand or mud.

It’s also relatively lightweight and can be stowed easily since it’s pretty flat. Unfortunately, it has some moving parts to it, sometimes requires a tripping line to get it out of the seabed, and is certainly not ideal for more rocky seabeds.

8. Norestar Stainless Steel Danforth-Style Anchor

While the original Danforth anchor is a great choice for your next anchor, a step up in terms of quality is the Norestar Stainless Steel Danforth-Style Anchor .

While you’ll certainly spend a bit more money for this Danforth-style anchor, the design improvements ensure a safer anchoring and a longer-lasting product.

This Danforth-style anchor by Norestar provides all of the advantages of owning a traditional Danforth with some extras.

First, it has no movable parts so there’s no chance of pinching fingers while operating the anchor.

Second, it allows for anchoring off in seabeds that are rockier than the original Danforth can handle. It even comes in stainless steel, which means this anchor will last a very long time.

It does, however, still have the downside of at times needing a tripping line to release it from the seabed.

9. Norestar Stainless Steel Bruce Anchor

The Bruce anchor (also known as the Claw anchor) is a popular style of anchor that’s been used for a very long time.

There’s no question the Norestar Stainless Steel Bruce Anchor is a step up in the design of this anchor style, similar to how they improved the Danforth.

This Bruce/Claw anchor is a great choice for your sailboat’s next anchor since it has a good holding power for almost any seabed texture.

It’s also quite lightweight, has no moving parts, and it’s very easy to break it from the seabed.

Even better, it’s made out of stainless steel, so it’s built to last. Honestly, there aren’t too many downsides to this anchor apart from it being relatively expensive.

10. Norestar Stainless Steel Delta Anchor

The Norestar brand is amazing at taking the more traditional style of anchors and improving its designs to make them more attractive.

Well, they’ve done that once again with the Norestar Stainless Steel Delta Anchor .

The Delta anchor was already an improvement to the CQR anchor, but Norestar decided to take it to the next level.

The Delta anchor by Norestar is one of the highest quality stainless steel, delta-style anchors you could put on your sailboat.

Apart from it being stainless steel like the rest of Norestar’s anchors, it’s also lightweight, has no moving parts, and has a powerful holding power in softer seabeds.

However, it might not be the best sailboat anchor on seabeds with hard sand and it might require a tripping line to set it free from the seabed.

11. Mantus Galvanized Anchor

Some of the best sailboat anchors are originally derived from the more traditional sailboat anchors (in particular those with a roll bar), which is definitely the case for the Mantus Galvanized Anchor .

As one of the most well-known anchor types out there, this anchor manufactured by Mantus Marine stands out as a top contender for the best sailboat anchor.

This anchor by Mantus is produced with galvanized steel which makes it quite strong, inexpensive, and dependable.

With its uniquely designed roll bar, this sailboat anchor is able to properly land on the seabed when making its descent resulting in getting a better grip of wherever it ends up.

This anchor is specifically designed to break through dense grassy bottoms, so definitely a consideration when buying your next sailboat anchor.

12. Fortress Anchor

Sometimes it’s important to break free from the most well-known anchor brands and see what else is out there.

After stepping outside and digging into other anchor styles, I fell upon the Fortress Anchor , which is an aluminum fluke anchor that has a lot of common characteristics found in the traditional Danforth-style sailboat anchor.

The Fortress anchor has a very similar design to the Danforth but differs in the sense that it’s even more lightweight since it’s made out of aluminum magnesium alloy.

Some of the clear advantages that make this a candidate for the best sailboat anchor are that it settles quickly to the bottom of the seabed, it can be disassembled for easy storage, and it’s been tested to have double the holding power compared to its competition.

Downsides include movable parts, sometimes requiring a tripping line to remove it from the seabed, and not being ideal for rocky seabeds.

What to Consider Before Buying a Sailboat Anchor

We went over a good amount of high-quality sailboat anchors just now, so you should have a good idea of what anchor you might consider purchasing for your sailboat.

However, there are a few considerations to take into account before making that purchase, which is what we’ll cover now.

Construction Materials

You’ll find a number of different construction materials for anchors, like aluminum and steel, but by far the most common materials you’ll find is a metal anchor made of steel or aluminum alloy.

Galvanized Steel

Anchors made out of galvanized steel are often found to be less expensive and shiny compared to other types of anchor materials.

The great part is that they’re very strong and can last a very long time. Unfortunately, they’re prone to corrosion so it’s not uncommon to have to get them re-galvanized.

Stainless Steel

Anchors made out of stainless steel are very strong and aesthetically pleasing in terms of their appearance since it’s rather shiny.

You can’t go wrong with getting a stainless steel anchor, but you’ll definitely be forking over more money to get one.

Aluminum Alloy

Anchors made out of aluminum alloy are very lightweight compared to steel but often come at a much higher cost when going through the checkout line. However, when set correctly on the seabed, they’re known to have very high holding power.

Lakes vs. Coastal Waterways

Depending on where you’re sailing, you’ll need a certain level of strength to keep your sailboat from moving around while anchored.

Sailing in coastal waterways definitely requires a strong anchor than when sailing around lakes, so it’s generally advised to stick with the stronger anchors just in case.

If you know your sailboat will never leave the lake scene, go with a weaker (and thus cheaper) anchor.

Anchor Weight to Boat Length

You might’ve been wondering how strong your anchor should be based on the size of your sailboat.

Well, there’s no hard and fast rule to the exact strength (or weight) your anchor should have, but it’s definitely possible to determine a minimum weight to cover some worst-case scenarios when using your anchor.

A simple way to determine the minimum anchor weight of your sailboat is to subtract 5-10 lbs from every foot of your sailboat’s length overall (LOA). For example, if your sailboat is 40 feet long, then a 35 lb boat anchor would be a good weight.

This is a good rule of thumb when choosing an anchor weight for your sailboat, but should only be considered as an estimate and for minimum weight.

If the anchor you plan to purchase has a chart helping you decide on the proper weight to get, you should definitely follow that.

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Types of Anchors: How to Choose the Right Size Anchor

Most new boats do not come equipped with an anchor, but every boat should have one on board. You may want to drop the anchor to hold the boat in a secluded cove for an afternoon of relaxation or even an overnight stay , or just to hold your boat over fishing structure.

The anchor is most important as a critical item of safety gear . If you should lose power, it’s the anchor that’s going to keep your boat from drifting into peril, be it rocks or another shoal, or the dangers of a surf-swept shoreline. The best anchor first depends on the size and type of your boat.

A tall sportfishing boat or power cruiser that can catch a lot of wind will need heavier gear, for example, then a low-profile bass boat . Boats used for long-distance cruising may need to anchor in rough weather, and on a variety of bottoms, and thus will need not only heavier gear but also several different anchors suitable for different bottom conditions.

How to Anchor a Boat: Step-by-Step Guide

Consult a Boat Anchor Size Chart

Anchor manufacturer guidance, usually based on boat length, can be a good starting point to determine which size anchor is appropriate for your boat. If your boat is heavier than typical boats of that length, or presents more windage, you should select a larger anchor.

The same logic applies if you frequent an area with high winds. Generally, the bigger the anchor, the better, but the anchor’s holding power in the bottom, rather than its weight, is what really matters. Always keep your ground tackle (the anchor and its rode, or line) ready to deploy at a moment’s notice.

Types of Boat Anchors 

Once you have a better idea of what size anchor you need for your boat, you'll also want to consider the type of anchor. Let's explore some of the most popular options available for boaters when it comes to anchors.

Mushroom Anchor

Very large mushroom anchors are used for moorings or securing buoys. Small mushroom anchors may be effective in the softest river bottom but have minimal holding power. They should be used only for personal watercrafts , small aluminum fishing boats , or dinghies .

Danforth or Fluke Anchor

This style of anchor is a good choice for smaller boats because it folds flat and is easy to stow, and has great holding power for its weight. Its wide, sharp flukes sink into sand and hard-mud bottoms, but are less effective in deep mud or a grassy bottom. If the wind shifts and boat drifts over the anchor and then in the opposite direction from which it was set, a Danforth anchor can pull free.

Plow Anchor

A plow anchor is a little more cumbersome than a Danforth, and is a good choice if the anchor is secured on a bow roller rather than in an anchor locker in the boat. A plow anchor has a single penetrating point and is more likely to reset itself if boat position changes. It can be more effective than the Danforth in light grass, has the strength to hold in a rocky bottom if it gets a good grip, and does well in soft bottoms.

Claw Anchor

This non-folding anchor is similar to the plow anchor, but has a broader scoop shape that works well in mud, clay or sandy bottoms. These anchors are also strong enough to hold on a rocky bottom. A claw anchor will re-set quickly if the wind changes. It may not work well on a very hard bottom, or in thick vegetation, both challenging for all types of anchors. This anchor is also best-suited to installation with a bow roller or windlass .

Grapnel Anchor

Shaped like a grappling hook, this anchor has multiple tines or points, and is designed to grab onto structure on the bottom—such as rocks or submerged timber—rather than sink into the bottom. The tines usually fold up along the shank so that the anchor is more compact for stowage. On some models the tines are designed to bend to make it easier to retrieve the anchor if it becomes snagged on bottom structure. The tines can them be bent back into shape. Grapnel anchors are available in many sizes, including very small models for jon boats , skiffs or small boats , like kayaks.

Read Next: How to Tie Up a Boat: Mooring Guide

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Better Sailing

Best Types of Sailboat Anchors

When buying a sailboat anchor, you want to ensure the safety of your sailboat, when mooring or setting anchor at the middle of a bay. There are many types of sailboat anchors available in the market and not all of them are constructed of same materials. This article will analyze different types of boat anchors, how to choose the best anchor for your boat, as well as the different types of their construction materials. The right anchor means not just the right design for the type of seabed you’re anchoring on, but also the appropriate size for your sailboat.

Here Are The Most Common Types of Sailboat Anchors

The spade anchor – best sailboat anchor overall.

A new generation anchor, it comes in a welded one-part or two-part design that can be easily disassembled with a spanner. Also, this sailboat anchor has excellent holding power. It provides balance and always arrives on the seabed point down, something that enables it to set very quickly. This Rocna Vulcan Galvanized Anchor has amazing holding power and, talking from experience, will never disappoint at any seabed or weather condition. It is also becoming a favorite for people who liveaboard and are looking for strong dependable anchors to have on their sailboat. I couldn’t recommend this anchor more.

Danforth or Fluke

The Danforth, or Fluke anchor, is a very popular anchor. It performs well in sand and mud, possibly the best among many anchors styles. The disadvantage is that outside of these bottoms, it is not a good performer. Thus, it is a sand anchor, which is what most bottoms are comprised of. However, it is the best anchor style in terms of weight to strength or anchoring ratio. Furthermore, it’s easy to store because it lies flat. The angle of the flukes is standard for 32 degrees or up to 45 degrees for soft mud. All these are Danforth boat anchors . You just need to find the right size for your boat.

Delta & Plow, Wing, or CQR

This type of anchors is bulkier than Danforth anchors. Both Delta and CQR are a plow style anchor. The difference between these anchors is that the Delta is a one-piece design, while CQR is a hinged design. Moreover, the delta and plow anchors are easy to store at the bow of your sailboat rather than in a locker. Delta and CQR demonstrate good performance in most bottoms, but they struggle in rock. This Lewmar Delta is a great sailing anchor that you can pick up from Amazon at a great price.

Bruce or Claw

The Bruce or Claw anchor rights itself and plows into the bottom, primarily because of its design. The Bruce is an all-purpose anchor because it performs well in most sea bottoms. These could be sand, mud, and rock. Its three-claw design sets more easily than other anchors. However, the Bruce anchor has an average holding power, which means that you might need a larger anchor, i.e. the Delta or Wing. Take a look at all these Bruce anchors available online and pick one that is the right size for your boat.

Fisherman, Kedge, or Herreshoff

It’s probably the best of all, in terms of holding in thick kelp or rock, but also more specialized. They are the traditional anchor shape that we all know. Modern kedge-style anchors are lighter and can adapt to specialized use. Furthermore, their sharp bills and small flukes hold better in hard sand. Kedge anchors are often used in heavy vegetation seabeds . However, I wouldn’t recommend this type of anchor to have on your sailboat since there are better and more versatile ones out there.

This type of anchor is similar to other plow anchor styles. The difference is that it has an adjustable fluke angle. Adjustable angles mean that they can be adjusted for different bottom conditions, unlike the Plow and Delta anchors. Although Super Max is a bulky anchor, it’s really effective.

Mushroom and River Anchor

These anchors are suitable for permanent mooring buoys. This style is designed to gradually dig itself deeper and once inserted, it has great holding ability. On the downside, this anchor does not work well in weedy or rocky bottoms. It is mostly useful in temporary anchoring situations. Although this type of anchor can be handy on your boat or sailboat it shouldn’t be the only one or even the second anchor aboard.

The Bugel Anchor

Another new generation of sailboat anchors, and also the first to sport the rollover bar. Furthermore, it has a simple design that makes it affordable. The Bugel Anchor provides excellent performance in most seabed conditions. However, they were widely replaced by spade anchors and you can’t really find them in most marine stores or online.

Best Material Types For Sailboat Anchors

There is a wide variety of anchors constructing materials. The most common are mild steel, stainless steel, high-tensile steel, and aluminum. Most of the traditional anchors we know are either made of mild or high-tensile steel. The difference between them is that high-tensile steel is 2 or 3 times stronger than mild steel. Keep in mind that these anchors are not corrosion-resistant, thus they have to be galvanized in order to prevent rust. In general, steel anchors (except stainless) should be galvanized. Most sailors choose a galvanized anchor because they are affordable, but also because they have the highest tensile strength. Nowadays, some anchors are made of aluminum and rely on their shape for their function.

Related Content: Stainless vs Galvanized Anchor

Connection Between Sailboats and Anchor Size

So, what’s the minimum size of sailboat anchor for a vessel of a particular length? For example, a 20ft sailboat will need an anchor of 15lb. Then, a 30ft sailboat will need an anchor of 25lb. Finally, a 36ft sailboat will need an anchor that weighs 35lb. Generally, anchors work in two ways. They can be massive and use their weight to keep the boat from drifting, or lightweight and bury themselves in the bottom, in order to stop the boat from moving. Of course, a combination of both is optimal and as a general rule, you want a bigger anchor that you think you need. That way, even if you find yourself in heavier weather than expected, you want one less thing to worry about.

What Characteristics Make a Good Anchor?

Firstly, it must dig in fast every time. Secondly, it has to bury deep, because of the greater the mass of seabed above and ahead of the anchor, the better the holding power. Thirdly, it must have excellent holding power. Finally, it must hold in the different wind conditions. For instance, when the wind shifts, the anchors have to drag around in order to face the new direction. Prefer the anchors that remain buried while dragging, rather than capsizing and pulling out. Moreover, the static holding power can’t be more than 20 times the anchor’s weight. For example, if you use a 15kg anchor, its static hold will be approximately 300kgf. In a 40 knot wind and for a 33ft yacht, this is probably the force that the anchor will receive.

Summary – What is the Best Sailboat Anchor?

In general, all of the above-mentioned anchors meet the four basic performance criteria. However, some of them demonstrate better performance in terms of holding power in certain types of seabed. For example, the Danforth is quite good in any sand, but there’s still a risk of it rolling and pulling out as the currents turn. On the other hand, Fisherman performs excellently in rock or kelp. However, nowadays the design of the new generation anchors provides much better-holding power and are generally more reliable in their movement.

Peter is the editor of Better Sailing. He has sailed for countless hours and has maintained his own boats and sailboats for years. After years of trial and error, he decided to start this website to share the knowledge.

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4 Popular Types of Sailboat Anchors

• August 9, 2022

Sailboat anchors are a frequently overlooked yet necessary item, and it might come as a surprise that many new boats do not come with one. As such, it is usually a boater’s next purchase before going out and spending time on the water.

Unless you are a seasoned skipper, choosing the right type of anchor can be overwhelming as there are several styles, each with its pros and cons. Additionally, having to consider the length, height, and weight of your boat. Furthermore, it is often recommended to have two anchors of different designs, especially for a larger craft. In simple terms, an anchor can be the difference between your boat staying in place or drifting onto the rocks or shoals. As such, it is important to choose the right type.

With that said, what are the best types of sailboat anchors for a sailboat?

Table of Contents

As the name implies, it is shaped like a plow and is commonly used as a primary anchor for larger powerboats and cruising sailboats. The main advantage of a Plow anchor is versatility, as it can dig into softer bottoms such as grass, sand, and mud. In addition, it resets easily should the wind or current change direction.

However, like all anchors, a Plow Anchor has a few downsides. Most notably, it struggles in rocky bottoms, which can be said for most types. Another consideration is storage, as a Plow anchor is heavier and takes up more space due to the hinged design.

A modern variation of the Plow anchor is the Spade anchor . While similar in appearance, it has a sharper pointed edge for digging into the bottom. As a result, a Spade has more holding power, enabling a boater to use a lighter anchor. As for drawbacks, like a Plow, it fares poorly on rocky bottoms and takes up more space due to the longer fluke and roll bar. In addition, being a new design, Spade sailboat anchors are still patented and more expensive than some of the other options.

The Fluke anchor , or Danforth, is frequently used as a primary anchor on smaller boats and sailboats due to its lightweight, excellent holding power, and compact size. However, it can be used as a stern or secondary anchor for larger craft. While a Fluke anchor is regarded as the best type in the mud and sand, it is less than ideal on other surfaces. In addition, it tends to become unstuck if the wind or currents shift and the boat drifts in the opposite direction that the sailboat anchors are set.

Claw sailboat anchors are popular for boaters thanks to their all-around performance. It is easy to set, grips well in sand and mud, and can hold on to rocks and coral. As for disadvantages, Claw anchors can have difficulty digging into clay and grassy bottoms. Like the types mentioned above, it is bulky and best suited for a bow install.

What Style of Sailboat Anchors Are Best?

As you can tell, there is not a “one-size-fits-all” anchor as there are several factors to consider, such as the bottom, size, and windage of your boat. Likewise, for larger craft, one or two anchors, and what type? Lastly, what material, galvanized steel, stainless steel, or aluminum, although the latter is more popular with sail boaters due to its lightweight.

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• Fishing Tips

The Best Boat Anchors Of All Time (Ranked Best Overall To Worst…)

• By: Joseph Simonds
• on July 16, 2021
• Found In: Boat Anchoring , Boating Tips , Fishing Tips , Weekly Newsletter: 7-18-21

• Comments (22)

It’s boat anchoring time!

Being able to quickly anchor your boat in any situation is one of the most important things for a boater (especially if you’re trying to catch fish and want to make sure you stay on your fishing honey hole).

It’s also a massive safety hazard if you have a small, weak anchor that won’t hold you during a storm, ripping current, etc.

But have you ever been confused (or uncertain) about which anchor is best for your boat?

Well, you’re not alone…

Turns out the majority of boaters we interviewed said they just bought an anchor “because their buddy had a similar anchor on his/her boat” or “because it was on sale and fit in the front hatch of their boat”…

NOT GOOD!!!

That’s why we had Salt Strong Fishing Coach Capt. Peter Deeks embark on a multi-month underwater investigation to find out exactly which anchors are best, and just as important, which anchors to avoid.

Let me tell you, the results were a bit shocking!

Let’s just say that the most popular anchors you see on boats are NOT the best!

Here are the main types of boat anchors that we tested:

• Danforth Fortress Fluke Anchor
• Common Danforth Fluke Anchor
• Small Fluke Anchor (West Marine)
• Danforth Steel Fluke (West Marine)
• Bruce Anchor
• Mushroom Anchor
• Grapple Reef Anchor
• Folding Grapnel Anchor
• Plow Anchor

Next, we tested each of these anchors out in every one of these situations (with and without chain – and with different rope length scopes):

• Hard compact sand
• Loose rocks/shelly gravel bottom
• Rocky/reef/wreck environment

So below you’ll see the following regarding this “best to worst” anchor test:

• An intro video where Capt. Deeks shares a few anchoring tips along with how we set up the test (definitely worth the watch)
• Links to all of the individual anchor tests (for you engineer types who like to see the actual underwater footage and testing of every anchor)
• Actual rankings for each anchor
• Conclusion video where we discuss the pros and cons of each anchor and declare a WINNER of best overall boat anchor

Enjoy this course and please leave us a comment below with any questions you have about anchors, how to anchor, or specific types of anchors you like.

1. Introduction To The Anchoring Test

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2. Links To All Anchor Tests (Actual Underwater Footage)

Click any link below to see the full underwater footage for each anchor type

3. The Boat Anchor Test Results

The point scoring system is based on speed and strength of hold with the following criteria:

1 = one point is awarded for an anchor fail with endless slipping before finally setting

2 = two points are awarded for an anchor that has slight slipping (or slight issues) but does set

3 = three points are awarded for an anchor that works perfectly and sets exactly how and when you want it to

The best anchors (ranked from best anchor to worst anchor):

• Best in Mud
• Best in Sand
• Best in Hard Sand
• Best for using shortest Rode
• Quietest Anchor
• 2 nd in ease of use and storage
• Tied for Best Structure or Wreck
• Plow Anchor (44 Points)
• Large West Marine Brand Fluke Anchor (37 Points)
• Small West Marine Brand Fluke Anchor (37 Points)
• Danforth Fortress Fluke (28 Points)
• Folding Grappling Anchor (26 Points)
• The Most Common Cheap Fluke Anchor (25 Points)
• Specialty Anchor – Best for Structure and Ledges
• Specialty Anchor – Best for slowing a drift or light force use

  Click here to download the Google sheet with all of the individual anchor scores

4. conclusion – the best boat anchors (ranked).

In conclusion, the BRUCE ANCHOR was the best overall anchor for fishing boats.

The Bruce, The Bruce, The Bruce is on Fire!

What’s crazy is that no one on our immediate Salt Strong team had one in their boat (we all had Danforth flukes and even a new Danforth Fortress – which was one of the WORST anchors).

But you can believe we’re all headed out to get a big Bruce anchor after seeing all of this.

The next time you’re at a sandbar, check out what anchors are being used.

I bet you’ll see more cheap fluke anchors and Danforth fortress anchors than anything else (which this study proved to be not very effective at holding boats).

Did you have any “aha’ moments from this anchor course?

Do you currently own a Bruce anchor?

Any anchors that we missed?

Anything else you’d like to see when it comes to boat anchors or anchoring tips?

Let us know by leaving a comment.

Tight lines and tight anchors!

Click here to download the Google sheet with all of the individual anchor scores

 click here to join the insider club, related categories:.

• Boat Anchoring , Boating Tips , Fishing Tips , Weekly Newsletter: 7-18-21

Ok, all the tests without chain are really useless! ANY anchor, should have proper amount of chain. That is just how anchors work. Period! And per Chapmans just sayin. That being said, most anchors hold better in certain bottoms then others. I have used a Fortress for years on a 22 Chawk Pilothouse (LOTS of windage!) w great success. But takes some skill to set properly. Also have have many other kinds and types. All have their place, and most vessels, even small, should carry 2 types, for different bottoms. But thanks for the great vids. Hope people can see, not having chain (really need 10ft of proper size for boat) greatly affects anchor set.

I have the grappling small anchor for my kayak. PLease let me know what you would recommend instead. Great stuff!!

Worst anchor – cement shoes Best anchor – 55 gal drum filled with cement, unknown, and whatever dumped in the tin can grounds off statin island.

Well I, too, had the winning worst anchor which seemed to be a reasonable one when I bought it. I rarely use an anchor since I am in shallow flats most of the time. That anchor didn’t last too long – it rusted worse than most so I pitched it. I use my old galvanized Danforth and it is holding up. Perhaps I will get a Plow or Bruce when the old one gives up. Shorter rode would be a selling point.

Get a Mantus anchor, similar to a plow but self righting. Best anchor ever.

No box anchor included in the test? I use a box on my pontoon and a fluke on my bass boat.

Please remember: You won’t use your best bower for holding fishing marks. For permanent parking. The chain does most of the work. Lots of heavy chain + cable up to seven times the depth of the water at high tide.

For fishing, you will use a very much lighter kedge. Possibly, even without chain. You will probably tow it from mark to mark. Very physical, even with a winch. If it slips now and again so what. Just curse and reset it. You will be on the boat after all.

Best Bower is your insurance for your pride and joy. Best you can accomodate / afford.

Kedge will be your bain. Usually lives like Odo in a bucket. Filthy, heavy, awkward and bloody hard work. Consider if you can set and reset it 10 times on a tide. Can I tow it? Make sure you can afford it when you loose it. Must trip easily so you can get it back off a dodgy bottom.

Choice! The excellent research has been done for you. Many thanks all round.

A rider. As a massive chain swings with the tide, it sterilizes the sea bed. Tremendous destruction. Use fore and aft permanent moorings in the absense of “Eco Moorings”. We are installing the latter, especially to conserve sea grass.

Did you test a Navy Anchor?

I think any “absolute” advice has to be given and/or taken with a grain of salt. I say this because everyone’s frequency of use, depth of water, and type of bottom they anchor in is different. For example, I rarely use an anchor (thanks to Minn Kota and Power Pole) but my anchor resides in the anchor locker of my 22 foot bay boat 24/.7. The anchor in my boat is an FX7 Fortress without any chain. If and when I do anchor (maybe 6 or 8 times a year), it is either mud or sand……and the Fortress locks up tight…..even to the point that, oftentimes, I have to use the boat to pull it up. I personally have no need for a 10 to 15 lb anchor in the bow! Obviously, that would change if I were trying to anchor in 10 feet of water with 20 feet of rope, or anchoring in grass, or ……….

I do indeed have bruce anchors on my boat. I learned of them long ago as a member of the sailing community as they are very popular with cruisers who live on their sailboats. I carry a 10kg Bruce on my 24’ bay boat and a second smaller one. I learned to carry what is called a kedge anchor which really is just a small anchor that you can either throw or manually place to help pull you off a lee shore, when you run aground or are in danger of doing so. I use a 7# bruce anchor with 5’ of stainless chain and 75’ of 5/16” nylon for my line. I can throw this anchor about 50’. Let it settle to the bottom and then set it and pull yourself either off a sandbar or back out to deeper water. It has saved the day more than once and it is also a nice anchor for a dingy or kayak.

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