Boat: Building 31 ft cat | . He supposedly has plans to sail the to and departed for the the day of . Hope he has a lot of patch kits and duck tape! And does a serious somewhere in the . Also there is a SR 34 on Ebay. I was on this last month. It APPEARS to be quite nice, but the exact origin/type of is unknown. He has sent me some cutout pieces for boil testing. I actually bought another boat last week, but still plan to test the and post the results here for anyone interested. I'd be happy to share any other observations about that particular boat via PM. Cheers, Jeff | 31-05-2010, 05:57 | | Boat: Searunner 34 Trimaran | | | 31-05-2010, 09:21 | | Boat: Searunner 40 trimaran, WILDERNESS | , to reassemble the (preventive on the starter, etc.). Then I'm going to pull the stick for , painting and . THEN, I get to go sailing. I'll post some pics of the when I get started on it. | | | 31-05-2010, 10:03 | | Boat: Searunner 34 Trimaran | , etc. The "...then go sailing..." is the best part of all! Looking forward to those pics when you get them uploaded. Fairwinds, Rann | | | 03-06-2010, 00:41 | | Boat: 34' Searunner Tri | I found this add while cruising the craigslist want adds. It led me to this site. I would say it is worth reading for all of us, but should be required reading for anyone considering building a boat. As for me, I only had a short period of time to be in ( I depart for AK. in the morning) So I never launched Corazon. I would have to say though, the design once again came through in flying colors. We had a tropical storm here last Sept. that dumped 30 inches in 24 hours. The roads and homes were destroyed in many places. Many of the in got a a lot of inside. I spoke to one guy who had a 50' 750k boat. He found it with 18" of and the floor and bottom cabinets ruined. The little had all the vents open in the wings and ama's. The drained like it does so well. I had NO WATER inside, or what little came in was evaporated by the time I got there. The combination of dry and vented makes all the difference. The that got soaked also have all the vents shut...they turned into farms. Just ugly. We did use the Hobie Skiff a lot. instant fun, just push the throttle! I tried to post a few shots but could not. I will try later. | | | 04-06-2010, 14:25 | | Boat: Searunner 34 Trimaran | , really fast, into square waves & 40 knts of ... Our Beckson mushroom vents on the top leak like a sieve when they go under a wave that poops the entire boat! (WAY over the top of the dodger) thing... This never happens if I FALL OFF in a gale. "Learn slow, remember long". Then there was the time our PSS , had it's rotor slide up the shaft, letting in a LOT of water. Both a Monomaran, And a would've been in big trouble. We caught it just before the engine got water in it. Having a dusty dry , (normally), our pumps had no automatic function at the time. Since then, we put a doughnut zinc on the shaft, inside the boat, just on the forward side of the rotor. This makes it impossable for the rotor to slip forward again. We also added float switches to the bilge pumps. Then, seperate first alert bilge water alarms, to both cabins & the amas. Then there was the time that we were away in one of those huge rains, & our SS cover Nicro 24 hr Mushroom vent, let water past the openings & into the fan, which slung it everywhere. With 4 of these on the boat, and after several , I found that the factory just doesn't seal them well. I took the last batch apart, & silicone caulked the cover to the guts, all cracks & openings except the bottom weep holes, and also caulked the wire openings. (really thoroughly) Then used silicone plumbers grease on the compartment "O rings", and the plastic cylinder that slides into the trim ring. Other than change the "Radio Shack" ... It's been 10 years on these 4, with no problems & no . (on really dificult connections like this, I use "Jet Lube" copper powder loaded, "electrically conductive" grease) It keeps the moisture out of the connection, while maxamizing conductivity. Great for house cabels too! On battery , When I follow the connect up with solvent off the excess "jet lube", then with 5 coats of "Liquid Lectric Tape", the connection is perfect, & 100% waterproof for the life of the . (10 years?) I have removed old connections like this many years later, & found the battery post as shiney as day one. In fact, having made an electrically complex boat, (forgive me Jim & John), I have found that by making all connections crimped & soldered & heat shrunk, then connected with this level of care, and the wire fastened every 4" or so... only the batteries, or the device on the other end can fail. It makes it easy to figure out when they crap out. By having mechanical redundancy, and not relying on these things too much... Well, "so far so good". I checked out that info about the above CC35 . Really nice job! I love my SR 34, and having more room & , it is the better boat for us. Before I knew that however, I almost went with the CC35. For a "couple" who want to for months on end, rather than years, this is the perfect cruising trimaran! And, to my eye, one of the most asthetically pleasing boats ever designed. Some thoughts on boat projects in general that I can pass along... The boat needs to be kept out of the sun, not just the rain. If it's in a building, it needs to have a roof & walls that are at least 50% opaque. This varies with the time exposed. Was it 3 months or 5 years? UV damaded looks like it. It is more yellow, no longer clear, and when rapped with a round piece of just hard enough to dent the surface of the plywood, it doesn't crack. (lots of luck getting permission to do that!) To prevent from dripping from the ceiling of your boat building, when it's cold & damp out, completely seal the floor with 6 mil poly. The ground is where most of that moisture comes from. Also... UV is an ongoing problem. For this reason it is best to use opaque "Grey" primer under a White LP job. (with no bare spots) This blocks 100% of the sun rather than 50%, like White primer under white paint does. It makes the boat's interrior much cooler in the tropics too. (I did experiments on comparative samples) This also applies to protective . Green or dark Blue Sunbrella, block MUCH more of the UVs than Toast, Beige, or White. Color choice can double the life of your sails! One important thing to apply in boat projects, is stick within the of the design, or call for a consultation about the changes you have in mind. (This is regarding the things that change the stresses, weight, factors, or balance of the sailplan.) When we started our , I had just recently been out on a guys SR 34, that had a Gougeon Bros Wing . The boat went from headsail driven to driven. The was way forward of the designed location. (not where the strength & stiffness is) It had a loose triangular rig that flopped around at , and the wing mast did not self feather. It wanted to sail at , & in a ... Anyway, the boat actually was beautiful, & sailed great. It just wasn't a better cruising boat! I talked to John Marples about a more perfected version of this, with a smaller wing, on our project. After he explained all of the reasoning why it was a bad idea, it all made sense to me. He sugested a Taller version of our standard SR34 rig, rigged as a , but sailed as a . I drew it to scale & sent it to him to double check everything. (like spreader location, etc.) The boat & rig are designed together to compliment each other. Our is perfectly balanced at all times. In the case of the CC35 project , it could be that these folks did this change along with John? OR, perhaps they had sailed on a CC35 that was driven, with the same ball & socket pivoting mast. With a large roach main, I assume the mast is in a different location to balance the sail plan? Anyway, if it balances perfectly, it may be an improvement, but if not, the drag would eat up any advantages from a slicker rig. That rig is great on a beach cat... IF they really did their homework on this, it looks like they really put in the love, & care, & expertiese, to make something special. It may be 2 years & $20,00 from a complete sail away cruising home, but it sure looks like it was built well. If John surveys the boat, & passes these issues, their asking of $50,000 is not an unreasonable amount of . It is hard to describe how much this really is... My hat's off to them. BTW... The way to test for good glue joints on a project boat, is to chip off an goober or run out of a stringer or frame glue joint, in about a dozen concealed locations. The glue goober should come off with a thin piece of still attached, NOT clean. This tells if the connecting surfaces were prepped properly before glue up... There I go, rattling on about boat projects again. Hope this is of use to some one. Mark | | | 06-06-2010, 07:26 | | Boat: Searunner 34 Trimaran | . It is painted with AwlGrip, & the paint is 95% intact, but chalking badly. It is covered with scratches, chips, & dings. It is only "failing" on the welded on like the gooseneck, masthead, base, bases, & boom ends. I know that the "proper" way to paint it is to 100% strip the paint everywhere & start over. The thing is, I don't care about the ultimate cosmetic perfection of the paint job, don't want to go to the trouble, and don't want to loose even 1% of the mast in the process. (it is a spagetti stick already) What I'd like to do is remove the stuff in the way, strip the failing paint & bare spots only, and only fine sand the rest of the mast (95% of the surface area), to remove just the surface, & get a bond. The thing is... the first step in repainting is Alumaprep, & Alodine wash. (to etch the surface of bare aluminum) If I spot treat the bare areas that need it this way, I must overlap the "prepped paint only" of the mast. Then I would prime & paint the entire mast. I know that the first couple of shiney years, the different levels of paint at these can be seen, but being a mast, I don't think it matters. I do wonder however, how Alodine sticks to AwlGrip (VS bare aluminum), and how AwlGrip will stick to itself, with (in small areas) a layer of Alodine in between? Would this be a mistake? Nothing Like: "been there done that" Mark | | | 18-06-2010, 19:41 | | Boat: Parkins Herreshoff 28 | place because i thought someone here might be interested... "Searunner Trimarans" by Jim Brown, 1973 the book is in excellent shape with lots of info pertaining to these boats... if you want it make me an offer that will cover and its yours... | | | 19-06-2010, 04:05 | | | place because i thought someone here might be interested... "Searunner Trimarans" by Jim Brown, 1973 the book is in excellent shape with lots of info pertaining to these boats... if you want it make me an offer that will cover and its yours... | 19-06-2010, 09:23 | | Boat: none | | | | 19-06-2010, 09:33 | | Boat: Searunner 40 trimaran, WILDERNESS | , Sterling, in my case, because that's what I have gallons of. I'll take pictures of all of this and send them, when it happens. Right now, I'm reinstalling the starter (had it stripped, serviced for the hell of it), changing the start/high draw battery bank (I eliminated it when I created my new monster house bank), and finishing last-minute touches on the new . I hope this helps. | | | 21-06-2010, 10:42 | | Boat: Islander 34 | on the outrig.org website for $15. Bad news: the PDF is protected with a password, so it won't (easily) load onto an eBook reader. I purchased a copy. I'm now reading the while sitting in a marina atm awaiting my first-ever haulout this afternoon... wish me luck! EDIT: the book is here: I'm on an expedition to the farthest location possible! ham: VE0FOS tiktok: instagram: | | | 24-06-2010, 16:38 | | Boat: Searunner 34 Trimaran | to the .) It works great to do this, but with 2" between the boom & , we have to tie up the main sl really close, to keep it off of the . This makes it where it chafes the flaked sail, to move the boom out, because the main is tied tightly around the boom. The main sheet, just under the boom, is the problem. Now that I see the writing on the wall, for manually handling this OB motor, I HAVE to solve this. So I plan to use split PVC pipe as a , and make a tunnel under the boom for the main sheet to run through. Then it will work, even inside a tight wad of sail, sail ties, & reefing lines... inside an even tighter mainsail cover! If I can swing the boom out, without uncovering & un tieing the main, I will use it as a hoist. At least that's the plan. When you describe all of the changes to your boat over the years... It sounds like the alone is original! Is every system & removable part, second generation? We have replaced most of the at the end of the wire, more from obsolesce than failure. Oh well, gives us something to do. Mark | | | 25-06-2010, 08:41 | | Boat: Searunner 40 trimaran, WILDERNESS | support tubing, that also doubles as a super handrail when working near the boom. The is secured to the tubing, with the cover zipped along the top with a long line. The lazy jacks secure to the tubes, which flare outward and upward from the boom. It looks very cool, as you will see in the photos, and keeps the entire sail well flaked and above the boom. Then, as I will probably do, one can simply install two sheaves, one at the forward and one at the after end of the boom where the mainsheet can travel. It's harder to describe than photograph, so have patience with me. I built my boat over thirty years ago. Because it was the first Brown in Southern to be completely sealed in West System, it has held up very well. Everything else, non-structural, has pretty much been changed as new materials came to market. At the moment, my is almost completely gutted as I sand and repaint everything, including the underdeck above the . It's been hard, but it is completely going to transform the . All of the has been completely replaced using L16 batteries as the house bank, a Magnum , custom electrical panel, and a distributed 12 volt in five major conduits from the locker above the new . I installed a on the bow, with pressure water for the saltwater washdown and controls at the bow, , and even in the bilge so I can pull the 1/4" high-test chain through a chase into the bilge aft of the forward mainstrength bulkhead, when I want to seriously trim the boat for long passages. The was organized on Excel, so if you want a copy I can send it to you. All wires are coded at their terminal ends so I can identify them when doing changes or . After I get the mast pulled this summer (after the haulout next month and new installed) I will pull out the floorboards and replace them with the prototype I used in the : 1 X 2 hollow rectangular aluminum tube stringers, drilled out with large, aircraft style, "lightening holes", and 1/2" high density foam soles with sand nonskid. I figure I'll save well over a hundred pounds with that changeover. The old plywood boards are getting pretty funky after so many years of abuse. Since I ripped out so much stuff, I took out the entire system (with the exception of the and waste tank) for replacement. All of it was showing its age, and the materials today are too cool to be ignored. I have planned for a , so this pushed the entire project to reflect new uses and sources of freshwater. And, for the first time, I'll be including a pressure water system, and possibly a small water , to meet my pleasure craving needs as I age with the boat. I have most of the parts for the new reefer/freezer which will fit under the sterncastle table. And my for the will go in right after that. I'm going to be using high output with an charge controller to keep the ice cubes cold. Right now, however, all is chaos, with the exception of the forward bunk, where I can sleep. But it seems to be coming together. I have promised Jeff and Josie to meet them, next year, somewhere in the Pacific. One must have goals and deadlines, I suppose. | | | Thread Tools | | Rate This Thread | : | Posting Rules | post new threads post replies post attachments edit your posts is are code is are are are | Similar Threads | Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post | | Siskiyous | Multihull Sailboats | 2 | 21-08-2017 20:45 | Bahia 46: | Kiwikat | Fountaine Pajot | 24 | 09-11-2011 20:30 | | jvrkmarina | The Sailor's Confessional | 2 | 06-07-2011 06:45 | For Sale: | scotiasailor | Classifieds Archive | 0 | 02-07-2011 13:03 | Privacy Guaranteed - your email is never shared with anyone, opt out any time. ![](//sharoland.online/777/templates/cheerup/res/banner1.jpg) | | |
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trimaran preowned sailboats for sale by owner. trimaran used sailboats for sale by owner. Home. Register & Post. View All Sailboats. Search. ... Searunner Trimaran: Length: 37' Beam: 22'3' Draft: 3'6' Year: 1987: Type: cruiser: Hull: fiberglass trimaran: ... 34.4' Hunter Hunter 34 Henderson Harbor YC Henderson Harbor, New York Asking $20,500 ...
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HS = 1.34 x √LWL (in feet) Pounds per Inch Immersion: The weight required to sink the yacht one inch. Calculated by multiplying the LWL area by 5.333 for sea water or 5.2 for fresh water. FOR MULTIHULLS ONLY: BN - Bruce Number: The Bruce Number is a power-to-weight ratio for relative speed potential for comparing two or more boats. It takes ...
The Searunner Trimarans are home-built, wooden tri-hull sailboats designed by Jim Brown and John Marples intended for circumnavigation. ... Searunner Trimarans were designed in five hull sizes: 25, 31, 34, 37 and 40 feet. View All Members Showing 10 of 86 Member(s) steve ripples. andres. Seafarer24. ... For Sale: Searunner Trimaran Seattle ...
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This is the 34' Searunner designed by the partnership of Jim Brown and John Marples. If you are ever considering a trimaran, please find Jim Brown's book "The case for the cruising trimaran" Jim uses the 34' to illustrate his ideas on boats design. You will not find a better book on real life cruising needs and designs.
Location: Mexico/Alaska/Oregon. Boat: 34' Searunner Tri. Posts: 725. 34' Searunner Trimaran. 34' Searunner Trimaran Cruising Mutihull / Super Light Synthetic Rigging 34' Searunner Trimaran Cruising Mutihull / Super Light Synthetic Rigging | eBay. Cruisers & Sailing Forums - Jmolan's Album: 34' Searunner San Carlos Mexico.
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Searunner Trimaran User & Owner Group. Private group. ·. 1.0K members. Join group. About this group. A group for users, owners, and folks interested in the multihull designs of Jim Brown, and those inspired by them, like Constant Camber, to discuss the boats, the builds, the maintenance, the modifications, and their sailing journey with them.
Find Searunner Trimaran boats for sale near you by owner, including boat prices, photos, and more. Locate Searunner boat dealers and find your boat at Boat Trader! ... 2017 Searunner Trimaran. $24,000. Seattle, WA 98119 | Private Seller. Request Info < 1 > Connect with Us. Download the BoatTrader app. Explore Boat Trader. Boats for Sale ...
Trimaran preowned sailboats for sale by owner. Trimaran used sailboats for sale by owner. Home. Register & Post. View All Sailboats. Search. Avoid Fraud. ... 25' Searunner Trimarain Seattle, Washington Asking $19,000. 17.3' Windrider 17 ... 34.4' Hunter Hunter 34 Henderson Harbor YC Henderson Harbor, New York Asking $20,500.
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NEW 35' TRIMARAN FOR SALE I found this add while cruising the craigslist want adds. It led me to this site. DESIGNER/BUILDER - MARPLES 35'*CC35A*TRIMARAN I would say it is worth reading for all of us, ... Boat: Searunner 34 Trimaran. Posts: 1,661 Roy, Thanks for the advise. It is good to know that spot treating with Alodine & priming will work.