sailboat teak restoration

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Restoring Teak

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There's nothing prettier than teak on a boat, but it requires some upkeep. Here are some tips and products to help keep it looking great.

The natural, unfinished teak on the sailboat above is a beauty. But with brightwork varnished and the deck oiled (above), she sparkles! Here you can see the difference in a teak deck that's been sanded (top) and unsanded (bottom).

Teak maintenance is a love-hate affair for most boat owners. We love the warm, golden glow of a freshly cleaned deck, but not so much the elbow grease required to keep it so. Let's take a look at some cleaning tips that can help bring your tired teak back to life.

The Versatility Of Teak

Due to its resistance to deterioration, rot, and insects, teak is one of the few things onboard that allows a boater to decide the amount of effort they want to spend maintaining it. Many prefer the golden glow and accentuated grain highlighted by properly oiled or varnished teak deck or trim, viewing the additional work required to achieve it as time well spent. Others take the more laid-back approach of letting it attain a natural silver-gray color, safe in the knowledge that less than 1/100 of an inch below that weathered-gray look lies beautiful, oily wood (just be aware that thinner pieces of teak trim can become severely sun-dried and brittle or crack if neglected for too long).

Regardless of your chosen maintenance philosophy, at some point a reason will arise to give your teak a thorough cleaning, be it spring commissioning, selling the boat, or readying the wood for oiling or varnishing. Ironically, cleaning is when teak is most likely to sustain damage due to the use of harsh chemicals and overaggressive or incorrect cleaning methods. Improper cleaning with pressure washers, stiff bristle brushes, or harsh chemicals can remove the soft, lighter-colored grain of the wood, creating a washboard effect. Once that occurs, these ridges (which more readily trap dirt) can only be removed by sanding, which again removes more wood in a vicious cycle of owners loving their teak to death.

Teak-Cleaning Tips

Most teak dies an early death, not from neglect, but from improper cleaning by well-meaning owners. Although you should always follow the manufacturer's recommendations for any cleaner or product being used, here are eight general tips on proper teak care that will serve you well in all situations.

• Use the mildest cleaner possible to get the job done.
• Always wear recommended protective equipment (e.g., rubber gloves, goggles) when handling teak cleaners.
• Protect adjacent areas and finishes while cleaning. Gel teak cleaners have an advantage in this regard, providing you more control during application on horizontal or even vertical surfaces. Teak cleaners can damage anything from gelcoat and paint to anodized aluminum and even chrome fittings. Wet adjacent areas with water prior to cleaning and keep them wet, being sure to rinse all areas thoroughly (especially those being cleaned) as any residue will continue to eat away at whatever surface it remains on.
• When cleaning teak, scrub across the grain of the wood with a 3M Scotch-Brite pad. A soft, polypropylene bristle brush will do in a pinch — just remember to scrub lightly and never with the grain.
• Badly worn teak should be lightly sanded to smooth the wood's surface. While sanding also removes some of the wood, a smooth surface is easier to properly maintain and can increase the life of teak by exposing less wood to the elements and preventing the grain from trapping dirt and airborne contaminants.
• Keep teak wet while cleaning. An overcast or even drizzly day is better than a blazing sunny day, as it helps prevent the area from drying out.
• Use two-part cleaners as a last resort only, and then use sparingly.
• Keep cleaned and/or treated teak covered if possible, to prevent UV light and weather damage.

The Teak Cleaning Enigma: Less Is More

A quick look at any well-stocked chandlery will show there's no shortage of teak cleaners. One-part, two-part, pastes, powders, gels — the list seems endless. But which one to use? Simplify selection by remembering your teak cleaning prime directive is to start with the mildest cleaning product that looks like it has a chance of success, then work your way up (as required) to stronger cleaners that can do the job with as little damage to the wood as possible.

One-part cleaners tend to be less harsh than two-part products, but may require longer dwell times (the time required to work after the product is applied), multiple applications, or simply lack the cleaning power of their two-part brethren, especially when faced with ultra-gnarly teak.

Two-part cleaners should be considered the "nuclear option" of teak cleaning due to the harsh chemicals and toxic nature of most. Sure, they can clean even the nastiest piece of teak, but they do so by removing some of it in the process. They should be used sparingly and only after milder one-part cleaners have been tried. The first part of a two-part cleaner contains the primary cleaning agent, while the second part (depending on the product) may provide additional cleaning power, contain a wood brightener (to lighten and impart a more uniform color), or simply act as a neutralizing agent for the first part.

Powering off the grime on teak decks with a cleaner and brush. Remember: Less is more.

Other factors to consider when selecting a teak cleaner include ease of application, harshness, dwell time, and "greenness" or environmental concerns. For example, products that have to be mixed require more preparation and time than one that can be applied directly from the container. The same is true for a cleaner that requires a 20-minute dwell time verses one a user can start scrubbing on immediately. On the flip side, many users may be perfectly content to wait that extra 20 minutes if the cleaner is milder on both crew and boat (meaning they don't have to remove teak trim due to worries about damage to adjacent gelcoat or painted surfaces), cheaper, or more environmentally friendly.

While teak cleaners are typically used in preparation for varnishing or oiling, most commercially available teak cleaners are simply too harsh for regular daily or weekly cleaning. For routine cleaning you'll find that sudsy ammonia or a solution of water and mild detergent (such as Original Pine-Sol cleaner) will compare well to most teak cleaners while being a lot easier on the wood, surrounding surfaces, and the environment.

On The Shelf

Here's a sample market scan of both one- and two-part cleaners.

Amazon's One-Step Teak Cleaner

Claims to easily remove dirt, rust stains, fish blood, and other sorts of grease and grime from weathered teak. It's billed as an acid-free formula that won't harm fiberglass or damage the teak's soft grain, while enhancing the natural texture of the wood. Application instructions: Wet area to be cleaned with fresh- or saltwater (including adjacent areas that the cleaner may also contact), then scrub or agitate as needed with a soft scrubbing pad. Rinse with water, then repeat if necessary. Safety precautions include wearing protective gloves and washing hands thoroughly after use. The manufacturer recommends following with an application of Amazon's Teak Prep (a brightener) followed by a good oiling with Amazon's Teak Oil. 32 oz., $15.99 | MDRAmazon.com

West Marine One-Step Teak Cleaner & Brightener

Advertised for cleaning lightly soiled teakwood surfaces. For badly stained or weathered teak, West Marine's Heavy Duty Teak Cleaner Kit is recommended. Product literature states that it won't harm wood and that it removes stains, oils, and so on, while restoring teak to its natural color. It also states its intended for use on teak wood only and that it may damage gelcoat, paint, and metal surfaces.

Application instructions: Spray teak with water, then apply cleaner, allowing it to penetrate for 2 to 3 minutes. Scrub the wood with a soft-bristled deck brush, keeping the surface wet while cleaning. Rinse the wood thoroughly with water. Keep all adjacent surfaces wet with water and immediately rinse thoroughly if accidental contact occurs. West Marine recommends following up with its Golden Teak Oil. 32 oz., $22.99 | WestMarine.com

Iosso Teak Cleaner

Comes as a powder (a 16-ounce jar makes 4 gallons of cleaner) that, per product labeling, safely removes dirt, black algae, and mildew stains in one easy step without harsh chemicals. Iosso states that its product emits no harmful vapors; is biodegradable and nontoxic; won't harm fabrics or colors, vinyls, canvas carpeting, metals, paints, fiberglass, or plastic surfaces; and is gentle to skin (although product labeling recommends avoiding prolonged contact). Application instructions: Mix up a batch of cleaner using the provided measuring scoop — one scoop makes a quart, four scoops a gallon, and so on, when combined with water. The instructions state to use a plastic container, mix only what you'll need for the job, and dispose of any unused solution afterward. Thoroughly mix until the powder is completely dissolved (warm water is recommended for best results), then apply the solution on any horizontal or vertical surface to be cleaned. Cool surfaces with water prior to application if hot. Let stand for 10 minutes or longer while keeping the area wet with solution (thoroughly brushing it into the wood) then rinse with water. Extremely weathered wood may require a second application. 16 oz., $15.25 | Iosso.com

Amazon's Quicki II 2-Part Teak Cleaner

Per the manufacturer, this cleaner is environmentally safe (contains no caustics or acids and is non-butyl) and won't harm fiberglass. Part 1 takes care of the deeper stains, grease and grime, while Part 2 follows through with surface cleaning and brightening agents. Each kit includes a teak scrubber for easier teak cleaning. Application instructions: Wet the area to be cleaned, then apply Part 1 full strength and agitate with provided scrubber; let sit for 10 minutes, then rinse. Apply Part 2, agitate for final dirt and grease removal, let set for 15 minutes and rinse thoroughly. Follow-up manufacturer's recommended product is Amazon's Golden Teak Oil. 2 x 32 oz., $33.30 for set | MDRAmazon.com

West Marine Heavy Duty Teak Cleaner Kit

Advertised for cleaning badly stained or weathered teak. Step 1 chemically attacks stained teak, while step 2 neutralizes step 1. Instructions state the product will not harm seam compounds, however, the label also says it may damage gelcoat, paint, and metal surfaces.

Application instructions: The manufacturer recommends wearing rubber gloves and eye protection when using this kit. First, wet the surface to be cleaned as well as the surrounding areas (including hull and deck), then apply Step 1 Teak Cleaner. Spread and agitate lightly with a synthetic deck brush. As the area darkens (in 3 to 5 minutes), scrub lightly. Rinse thoroughly with water, then apply Step 2 and spread evenly with a deck brush. Agitate lightly, then as the deck turns a light golden tone, hose off all surfaces thoroughly (including the hull). 2 quarts, $47.99 | WestMarine.com

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Frank Lanier

Contributing Editor, BoatUS Magazine

Capt. Frank Lanier is a SAMS-accredited marine surveyor with over 40 years of experience in the marine and diving industries. He’s an author, public speaker, and multiple award-winning journalist whose articles on boat maintenance, repair, and seamanship appear regularly in numerous marine publications worldwide. Contact him via his YouTube channel “Everything Boats with Capt. Frank Lanier” or at captfklanier.com.

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Better Sailing

How to Restore Teak on a Boat

There is nothing that can make or break the look of a sailboat more than the look of the exterior teak. But teak isn’t a maintenance-free boat surface that can be ignored or neglected for a long time. Though teak doesn’t rot, it can crook, check or look dull if proper care is not provided. Keep in mind that this article is not about deck restoration, so, we will not going to get into applying new Sikaflex on your deck, etc. 

Teak is amazingly flexible and can be made new again even after a lot of rough use. Teak with grey weathering rarely extends far below the surface of the wood. Instead of tedious sanding and scrapping to restore the weathered surface, a standard chemical cleaning is enough to bring back the teak from its worst condition to nearly its original appearance. Chemical cleaners can clean almost the worst off weathered teak.

Though, chemical cleaning may be tough on wood. Many chemical cleaners depend upon an acid or a caustic to bleach and clean the wood’s surface. But sometimes these chemical cleaners wear away the surface gradually. To achieve the best results, you should never allow your teak to get to that condition where you have to take these drastic measures. However, if things happened and there is a need for extreme cleaning, make an effort to keep it clean moving forward. 

Keep in mind that this article we will not going to get into applying new Sikaflex on your deck, etc. The article is coming though and will link it here as soon as it’s available.

If the teak of your boat got dark brown because of age or got weathered grey due to negligence, then the first thing necessary is to clean it thoroughly. The severity of the discoloration of your teak will tell the restoration method required. Since cleaners contain caustic and acids that are tough on wood, you have to use a mild cleaner as less as possible to do the job. The value of a mild scrub using a soft cleaner is that it’s gentle for the teak. As it is more probable to have soft cleaners in your boat, always try this method before applying drastic measures. 

The mildest cleaner for teak could be a common purpose domestic powdered soap. A concentrated powdered cleaner with vigorous scrubbing using a soft brush will clean the teak, which is just dirty. Scrub it as lightly as you can and also keep in mind that you have to scrub across the grain. Every time the teak is scrubbed, softer wood is removed, which eventually causes a rough surface that elevates the grain. Using a scrubbing brush regularly to scrub the grain, makes it weak and rough.

First of all, try to wet down the teak with fresh water, then clean it with a detergent solution. After that rinse it with water, then leave it to get dry for some time. If the teak’s wood gets clean, even a light tan, then you are in luck. Otherwise, you will need to use a powerful cleaner. 

Pro-Tip:  You can also use the same washing machine power that you use to clean your clothes. I am talking about the powered detergents with the small grains in them. Those will actually help scrub the wood better because the granules will get into the teak. The best way is to sprinkle it directly on the teak instead of using a bucket and then doing it. However, you are looking for better results the following options could be better for you.

One-Part Cleaners

The next step is to use “one-part cleaners” made explicitly for teak. It can be liquid or powdered. Most cleaners consist of a mild and abrasive acid-like oxalic acid or phosphoric acid. These acids are more efficient in lightening the surface of the wood than a simple detergent. Most of the household cleaners have oxalic acid. You should take precautions while using these cleaners, which contain acids. 

Even a badly weathered wood of teak can be cleaned using “one-part cleaners”. After drying the wood, it should come out as light tan. After cleaning one time, if some areas remain grey, repeat cleaning will do the trick. Still, if the wood of the teak is discolored or mottled, then you have to use “Two-part cleaners”.

I recommend this teak wood cleaner from Star Bright , it is soft on the teak but gets the job done. Make sure to get a Scrub Pad and a Stainless Teak Scrub too so you can get the best result as easy as possible. Here is a video on how to do it properly:

Two-Part Cleaners

These cleaners are more powerful, but they are hard on the teak. They are potent acids and caustics that can do a fantastic job of brightening and cleaning the teak. But it should be handled with care to avoid harm to adjoining surfaces. Also, surrounding surfaces, whether varnish or paint, should not be tainted by these cleaners. Continuous flushing of surrounding surfaces with fresh water among cleaning is usually sufficient, but covering off freshly varnished or painted surfaces will be more efficient.

There are slight differences in the guidelines for different “Two-part cleaners”, but the common principles are described below:

• Wet down the teak
• Apply “one-part cleaner”, dispersing and gently scrubbing with a soft brush
• When the surface of the teak is a muddy brown, uniform wet, apply “Two-part cleaner”, dispersing with clean stiffed brush
• Apply and disperse the acid required to turn teak into a uniform tan
• Wash it off thoroughly and then let it dry completely

Most commonly, the “two-part cleaner” is used twice as the first to obtain a uniform bright color. So it would be an excellent idea to buy an extra bottle of acid in case it’s needed. Also do not wash off the brown muddy surface of teak, unless the directives require it, after treating it with caustic. Furthermore, neutralizing the acid will reduce the problems.

This is the best 2-Part Cleaner made from TotalBoat and below is a video on how to use it. For large surface areas you might also want to get a get a large deck brash with a handle just to make the job easier.

Preparing for Finishing

A recently cleaned teak is a pleasure to witness, but the teak won’t remain fresh, light, and clean for a long time if proper finish is not applied. The teak’s surface will start to oxidize as soon as it dries. The earlier you complete the treatment after scrubbing, the better. 

Teak consists of grain that differs in stiffness, even in the same portion of the wood. Cleaning it with detergent may erode the softer parts of the teak’s grain, leaving ranges of firmer grain. The abnormality of such surface merely increases the speed at which the teak goes dull again.

If the surface of the teak that you have cleaned is plywood, there is a good chance that thorough polishing the teak, the surface may go right off from side to side, exposing the coating of the veneer, effectively ruining the piece. On the usual fiberglass boat, plywood or veneered components are the companionway hatch tops, drop boards, and occasionally cockpit soles and seats. Before polishing any part, inspect them cautiously to understand whether they are veneer or solid lumber. 

Polish the uneven grain of severely weathered teak once it is clean.

Decks are typically solid lumber, so they can create problems. If the flooring is less than half inch dense, and has beavered fastenings, polishing the grain edges will sand away sufficient solid to sand from side to side or release the bungs, revealing the fastenings. Even if the grain of teak is on fixed teak surfaces, you will be better off living with a clean uneven surface instead of opening the “Pandora’s Box” trying to make a perfectly flat surface.

On other hard teak objects such as toerails, dorade boxes, and handrails, thorough scraping of the washed surface, before applying it with sealer may produce an attractive surface. Don’t attempt to refurbish grey teak and badly weathered teak by scraping before cleaning it as I described above. There is a chance that you may quickly learn that discouraging quantity of scraping is necessary, and you will use chemical cleaners. Polishing both before and after the treatment is just a waste of effort, and may eradicate more wood. Teak with noticeable surface abnormalities would definitely take an eternity to scrap out to obtain an even surface. While cleaning with chemicals will swiftly lighten up even the inmost grain or gouges defects. Also, wait till the scrubbed teak is completely dry before polishing or applying teak covering.

Polishing scrubbed teak isn’t always needed. Mainly polishing is necessary if the teak’s surface needs to be preserved with oil covering instead of using a gloss polish like varnish. Granted, flawlessly smooth teak’s surface is more uniform in color. From a merely practical point of view, irregularities are insignificant except in the case of simplified scrubbing. Unless you plan to put the effort needed to preserve your teak’s surface between main cleanings, polishing the teak’s surface smooth is just a waste of your time. The chemical cleaning may recur the grain of the teak raising cycle, needing another rubbing.

If you are keen to keep your teak up, a good scraping will improve the wood’s form. The safest instrument for general smoothing is the high-speed sander like the “Makita XOB01Z” or any other small sander. I just like this one because it’s cordless, portable, and durable. It is also made by Makita, and I have great experiences with the brand. Inexpensive, slow-speed, and heavy sanders must be sidestepped. They leave revealing twirl marks on the teak’s surface that are emphasized by the finish. Also never use the sander on the surface of the teak to be scrapped bright.

The same is the case for a belt sander. A belt sander is maybe the most effective tool for leveling flat and large surfaces. But can also do some painful and permanent damage if the person using this tool is inexperienced. For hatches and decks of hard lumber, belt sander may be the solution, only if you’re comprehensively experienced with this equipment.

When doing power sanding, remember to cover surrounding areas of gelcoat. Just lightly touching the refined gelcoat surface with the sander will damage it. This same instruction applies to manual sanding. Remove the masking tape instantly after the completion of sanding. Even just leaving tape overnight on the exterior surface may make it difficult for you to remove. 

The adhesive residue could be removed with the mild solvent like alcohol and gentle rubbing with a rough cloth. Many teak coverings are easily put with polyfoam brush.

Remove dirt from the surface with a vacuum cleaner, after sanding. If electricity isn’t available, just sweep thoroughly with a large paintbrush or dusting brush. Obviously, you do not need to sacrifice your finest paintbrush. The cheapest stiffen brush will do just fine.

Applying Finish

The last step in restoring the surface of teak is the application of a sealer or coating to preserve for a long time the look of freshly installed wood. Your preference should be a covering that doesn’t blacken the wood. A good idea would be to look nearby boats whose teak looks good to you, then ask the owners about the products which they use.

No teak polish lasts for very long. To get the best results, monthly use of coating is needed, with good cleaning before putting on a fresh coat. You’re kidding yourself if you think a once-a-year treatment will keep your teak looking good. Don’t try to use domestic type equipment oils for teak. They may not stand against the weather.

Whatever teak covering you utilize, be wary of smearing it. Splattered teak covering will not look good when it’s put on fiberglass. However, it unavoidably blackens with time, leaving marks that look as ugly as varnish marks, and are hard to eradicate. Clean up these spills and overruns straightaway with any rag dunked in spirits like alcohol unless the manufacturer indicates an alternative solvent. Covering tape isn’t particularly efficient in defending surfaces from teak oil or varnish, as the thickness of most coverings is so thin that they just drain under the edge of the tape. The solution to this problem is careful use and thorough cleaning.

Depending on the look that you want to give to your boat’s teak you can get some standard teak oil from Star Bright for a matte look or if you want to go for a high-gloss varnish you can get this product made from TotalBoat .

Also, to avoid splatter and oil marks on the teak, the best way to apply the finish is with a foam brush . They are cheap and give the best result with lowest effort.

Maintaining

Your work is not done when the final coat of finish is applied. Teak requires constant attention to make it look good at all times. When a boat is used in saltwater, repeated wash downs with freshwater will definitely extend the lifespan of the covering. But, constant interaction with saltwater will likely decrease it. Highly traffic places like the teak cockpit will need the most care of all. Although they are easy to brush and retreat, sanding isn’t always desirable.

How to Restore Teak on a Boat – Conclusion

I know it seems like a lot of work. That clarifies why the exterior teak surface on many boats looks so dirty. It takes less effort than preserving a varnished teak surface. If you think you need varnished teak, first of all, try to maintain a freshly oiled surface just for a year and revisit the idea then.

Few things look better on a boat, mostly a white fiberglass sailboat than a well preserved exterior teak. A person who neglects teak wood may also be the same person who hardly replaces engine oil, and who hardly troubles himself to place the sail protections after a sail when he assumes he is going to sail again tomorrow. So, if you are looking for a sailboat to buy, remember that a clean and neat exterior probably means a well-maintained boat overall.  

Peter is the editor of Better Sailing. He has sailed for countless hours and has maintained his own boats and sailboats for years. After years of trial and error, he decided to start this website to share the knowledge.

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• Marine Teak Restoration

Coastal Yacht Detailing is your go-to destination for premium marine teak restoration services. If you’re a proud boat owner who appreciates the classic elegance of teak, our team of skilled professionals are here to help you restore its natural beauty and ensure it stands the test of time. With our meticulous attention to detail and passion for perfection, we bring back the luster of your marine teak, making it a focal point of envy on the waters.

Why Choose Us?

At Coastal Yacht Detailing, we understand that marine teak is not just a material; it’s a statement of style and sophistication. We take pride in offering you the following key benefits when you entrust us with your teak restoration:

1. Expertise that Matters: With years of experience and a deep understanding of marine teak, our team possesses the knowledge and expertise to handle teak restoration projects of all sizes and complexities. Whether your boat needs a complete teak deck refurbishment or spot repairs, we have you covered.

2. Revitalizing Your Teak’s Natural Beauty: Over time, marine teak can become weathered, dull, and lose its characteristic golden hue. Our restoration services involve thorough cleaning, sanding, and refinishing, revealing the natural warmth and rich tones that make teak a timeless choice for boat decking.

3. Preservation for the Long Haul: We believe in sustainable restoration practices. Our eco-friendly approach ensures that we use products and techniques that not only beautify your teak but also protect it from the harsh marine environment, extending its life for years to come.

4. Tailored Solutions for Your Needs: Every boat and teak surface is unique, and we treat them as such. Our team works closely with you to understand your requirements and deliver customized solutions that align with your vision for your boat’s teak.

Our Marine Teak Restoration Process:

At MarineTeak Restore, we follow a comprehensive and time-tested restoration process, ensuring exceptional results every time:

1. Inspection and Evaluation: Our experts begin by carefully examining the condition of your marine teak. This step allows us to identify areas that require attention and formulate a tailored restoration plan.

2. Cleaning and Preparation: We use specialized teak cleaning agents and tools to remove dirt, grime, and old finishes. This prepares the teak surface for the next steps in the restoration process.

3. Sanding and Refinishing: Our skilled craftsmen meticulously sand the teak to reveal fresh wood, eliminating scratches and imperfections. Once the surface is smooth, we apply the finest teak oils or finishes to enhance its natural beauty and provide long-lasting protection.

4. Final Inspection: Before we consider the restoration complete, we conduct a thorough final inspection to ensure that every inch of your teak is restored to perfection.

5. Maintenance Tips: We provide you with valuable maintenance tips and guidance to preserve the beauty of your teak and keep it looking its best for years to come.

Bring Your Teak Back to Life – Contact Us Today!

Don’t let your boat’s teak lose its charm. Trust the marine teak restoration experts at Coastal Yacht Detailing to breathe new life into your teak surfaces. Our dedication to quality craftsmanship and customer satisfaction sets us apart, making us the preferred choice for boat owners who demand excellence. Contact us today to schedule a consultation and discover how we can transform your marine teak into a stunning centerpiece on your boat. Let’s embark on a journey to preserve the timeless allure of teak together!

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A Teak Restoration How-To...

A teak restoration how-to.

There’s nothing more beautiful than a boat with well maintained teak decking. It not only looks amazing, but it helps hold up to the harsh marine environment if it has been properly treated. So, as beautiful as it is, it does require maintenance. If you are familiar with teak decking, you already know you will need to perform needed restoration work from time to time. In order to get great results from your teak wood maintenance and continue to enjoy its beauty in the future, consider these tips for teak restoration.

When Is It Time To Restore Your Teak?

Restoring teak is necessary, not just continue to make it look nice, but to also to protect your wood. You need to know when the time is right. Restoring teak does take quite a bit of time and effort, so you don’t want to go through all of that when it’s not needed. The first way to tell when it’s time is observing the color of the wood. If your teak has turned to a shade of grey or looks brittle, then it’s time to start restoring. Because it is a little more than just slapping some protectant on the wood, it’s important to have a plan before you jump into action.

Jumping in and being too aggressive is probably not the best idea. It’s also important to be careful with what products you choose. Harsh chemicals are not the way to start. You can actually damage your teak if you jump right to cleaners with a lot of abrasive chemicals, and those harsh chemicals are usually not even needed. We suggest you start with our Teak Brite Powder Cleaner. It can deliver amazing results without damaging the wood grain. After using the Teak Brite Powder Cleaner it is important to make sure you let the wood dry completely before continuing. If you find this is not a strong enough cleaner, you may need to move on to a harsher cleaner.

Scrub Scrub

Using the right tool while cleaning your teak is important. Our Life Scrub-All is a heavy-duty continuous filament marine stainless-steel scrubber which is perfect for teak and other hard wood. It has a lifetime guarantee not to corrode, wear out or disintegrate. Be sure to get a scrubber designed specifically for this job will avoid damaging the teak.

Protect Your Teak

Restoring your teak does require quite a bit of effort. Don’t waste all of that hard work by not sealing up the teak after you are done. The critical last step of your restoration should be applying a teak oil and sealer. If you skip this step, your great looking restored teak surface will return to its weathered look. Be sure your teak is completely dry before you apply the oil and sealer. We suggest using BoatLife’s Teak Oil & Sealer. Our oil is the most advanced teak oil and sealer available. It delivers long lasting protection even in tropical climates. You might have to wait an extra day to get back out on the water, but the oil coat will not soak in properly if the wood isn’t dry, so be patient!

For more boating tips and our full line of products, be sure to visit our website at www.boatlife.com .

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Best refinish method for teak

• Thread starter Technodad
• Start date Mar 16, 2012
• Oday Owner Forums
• Ask An Oday Owner

I have got a lot of my teak wood removed from the inside of my 23 so that I can install the new hull liner material. I would like to do something to the teak wood to make it look like a new boat ,ha ha, anyway, has anyone refinished their teak? if so how did you do it. I am trying to decide on the original flat look or a semi gloss or a full gloss!.....easiest would be to teak oil it, is this normal or a no no? thanks John  

I think if you sand it with 150 grit paper and apply a clear satin varnish or polyurethane you will be very pleased. Try taking a small piece out and giving it a go. The teak plywood really is pretty with a finish on it. EDIT: I just added some pics from my woodwork. There were some pieces that were quite a bit darker than others, so when I cut my bulkheads from Okoume, I stained them with some red and also evened up all the other stuff to match better. If yours all match, I wouldn't do that. The first pic shows a piece that was red (in the middle), the second pic is the refinished cooler cover and the third is the new starboard bulkhead.  

Attachments

Firstly,Teak is an amazingly weather and rot resistant wood sans any type of finish or oil.Personally,I prefer to leave teak natural.You might consider leaving it bare.The only maintenance then would be to scrub with soapy water and a good scrub brush.This brings back the light new color of the wood year after year.If it's in really sad shape a light sanding might be in order.Varnish or oils require more maintenance and expense.I'm speaking mainly regarding exterior trimwork.Sounds like your working on the interior.In that case I would look at an oil finish.  

Shoaldrafter

another thought I am from a different school on teak or brighwork finishes for sail boats. I recommend just using a high quality teak oil finish. Specifically try Messmer's Caribbean Extreme - Teak Oil Finish. Yes, depending how far north you are, you have to reoil once or twice a year. But no scraping or removing old varnish or urethane. Understand that teak is an oily wood. The oil in teak protects the wood. So by applying a high quality teak oil, you restore original level of oils to wood. Where as varnish, urethanes, or Cetol have to scraped or sanded off to refinish. See: http://www.messmers.com/messmers-caribbean-extreme Ed K  

If you are removing and finishing the interior wood, this is what I did. The interior was fully gutted. I removed all woodwork, replaced what was damaged, and then started cleaning the old stuff. I used Don Casey's mix of water, laundry detergent and bleach. Soaked it in good, brushed it with a stiff brush , rinsed and dried by the wood stove. Then I went one step further to try to match the old to the new. I soaked in a solution of oxalic acid and rinsed and dried. Then sanded enough to take off the raised grain and soaked in a homemade solution of 1 part solvent based gloss polyurethane, 1 part boiled linseed oil and 1 part mineral spirits. Soak in just like stain, and after no more will soak in, wipe with a linen cloth. When dry, lightly sand and do again. when the solution starts to "stiffen" wipe to a nice satin finish. Now the only maintenance is a yearly wipe down with lemon oil.  

Great responses guy's, thanks, I just edited the original post to indicate interior woodwork. Iv'e got some more testing to do on the best stain to use for matching the new bits. I bought a little can of Minwax Cherry color (did not have Teak) and tried it on the forward triangular piece that covers the U bolt mounts in the V berth, it evened out the color but left a semi shine, I then noticed the can read "stains and seals" and to finish with urethane, I think this is not your basic stain and I need to try something different. Indysailor I like the look of your wood.  

appleman said: If you are removing and finishing the interior wood, this is what I did. The interior was fully gutted. I removed all woodwork, replaced what was damaged, and then started cleaning the old stuff. I used Don Casey's mix of water, laundry detergent and bleach. Soaked it in good, brushed it with a stiff brush , rinsed and dried by the wood stove. Then I went one step further to try to match the old to the new. I soaked in a solution of oxalic acid and rinsed and dried. Then sanded enough to take off the raised grain and soaked in a homemade solution of 1 part solvent based gloss polyurethane, 1 part boiled linseed oil and 1 part mineral spirits. Soak in just like stain, and after no more will soak in, wipe with a linen cloth. When dry, lightly sand and do again. when the solution starts to "stiffen" wipe to a nice satin finish. Now the only maintenance is a yearly wipe down with lemon oil. Click to expand

25yearslater

I used Deks Olje 2 matte finish on my teak. I used Minwax Fruitwood on my Okoume followed with 2 coats of Minwax wiping polyurethane on the new interior woodwork.  

I tried Joe's fruitwood idea, however, on our boat the interior teak is quite reddish/orange, so the fruitwood over Okoume just didn't match. We went darker, with red oak stain, so that things all look pretty close now. Interestingly, I was reading about the orangish color that older Cetol left and came across the theory that teak used in the late 70s and 80s was sourced from the Philippines, which has more of an orange than brown look. Not sure if that's what I encountered, but the original interior teak really looks different than the my handrails so I compared them with a piece of Okoume/fruitwood stain and the match is pretty close.  

I do believe you're right Indy. Finding the orange teak is next to impossible. The sustainable plantation teak is about all you can get anymore. It is noticably more brown than the older teak.  

Installed new bulkheads in today. You can see one of the original ones in the background of the first picture. It was very orange, which is why we went a little darker with Minwax Red Oak. Everything came out and is now back in.  

That looks fantastic. Your color matching to your other woodwork is nothing short of professional.  

Given your own attention to detail, I appreciate the compliment very much.  

Just to show the "orange" teak- here is the old port side bulkhead from my boat. It's actually not in terrible shape, but the starboard side was pretty bad.  

I am refinishing my hunter 34 interior at the moment, and here is what I'm doing. Firstly, I intend to make this my permanent boat, so I am going overboard a bit but only intend to do this once. I did a 2 part sanding of everything, first with 120 grit and then finished at 150. I am also going with red oak as that seems closest to the 80's red stain already on the wood. Fine steel wool scour when set and translucent cetol over the top to seal. Being interior I expect it to outlast my time as captain and I am 33. A gallon f cetol is around a hundred bucks, but my man hours every six months on a re-oil is way more valuable in my opinion, and I am a "putter offer" on labor if there is any kind of wind, or rum..  

Technodad said: I have got a lot of my teak wood removed from the inside of my 23 so that I can install the new hull liner material. I would like to do something to the teak wood to make it look like a new boat ,ha ha, anyway, has anyone refinished their teak? if so how did you do it. I am trying to decide on the original flat look or a semi gloss or a full gloss!.....easiest would be to teak oil it, is this normal or a no no? thanks John Click to expand

refinish interior Bubble head, Sounds like good start. I have no experience with Cetol on interior but agree with Keith as to not use gloss. In fact I use satin which requires less work on touch up or repairs blending. I too question the Cetol which is intended for UV protection exterior. The reason of oil finishes is not the yearly re oil, but you do not have to seriously sand and scrape to refinish. I would not use fine steel wool anymore on wood finishes. Steel wool leaves traces of steel in wood and can rust. Use the 3M scour pads. Go to 3M web site and find the pads which it gives equivalents to the grades of steel wool. Now for kicker, do not brush finish on but use use nitrile gloves and small wide container to hold which ever finish you choose and scrub finish into wood. I use maroon 3M pads for first coat then move to the finner white pads for finish coats. Also thin first coats. I use all oil base paints. I mix plain paint thinner with oil finish then add small amount of satin urethane for first two coats. I wet out good and scrub (rub) into wood with pads. Let dry a short while and wipe any excess with rag. Let dry for day and do similar for next coat. I thin all layers. I use the cheap jug of paint thinner. All the odorless mineral spirits that cost more are just refined paint thinner. The two coats to begin are necessary because no matter how good you think you are, the next day will show places you missed. By using two base coats you solve that issue. Then proceed to your finish coats. Some guys use 6 or 7 coats. I generally just use two finish coats for same reason as stated above. None of my finishes are out of can urethane or varnish. I always thin. Some of my cans say do not thin, but bullshit. I learned my method from master craftsman finisher. http://www.gregorypaolini.com/WWClasses/CD-CompFinish.htm Ed K  

Blue Pearl Captain

Thank you all for your continued input on this subject, I am currently building a new kitchen unit to hold the stove, microwave and sink. This I will refinish together with the woodwork I have removed. Hopefully I will get it all together in a couple of weeks, then I will launch her. I will post some pic's of the unit when it's done. John  

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How to Restore Teak Wood on a Boat? The Most Detailed Guide

Written by Anthony Roberts / Fact checked by Jonathan Larson

Teak wood is one of the materials that are trusted when making furniture. So it is no surprise to see that teak wood became popular among homeowners and boaters alike because of its durability and long-lasting performance.

However, you should be taking care of this material. Otherwise, you will see dull teak wood on your boat. And if you are still looking for how to restore teak wood on a boat, you can find the instructions right here. I’ve failed several times before leaving this complete guide.

You will get complete details about methods and relevant tips in teak wood restoration with what you need to prepare to ensure a better cleaning result.

Table of Contents

The Durability of Teak Wood

Things that you need in restoring teak wood, guide on restoring teak wood on boat, making teak cleaner at home, knowing more about teak oil, up for teak restoration.

Teak’s resiliency goes a long way. Just handle it with care and it can serve you for 10 to 15 years. It may even go as long as 20 years. The durability of the teak wood will depend on the following things:

• The quality of the main installation
• The consistency of maintenance
• How you use your boat

You should know that what can damage teak wood the most is the wrong way of cleaning. It refers to inappropriate sanding and using harsh cleaning products. If you’re not careful, you just shorten the teak’s life.

It can’t be avoided that 1mm of teak is deduced yearly whenever you clean or sand it. So take note of this possible erosion. You should also know that the thickness of the teak ranges from 7 to 18 mm.

Teak restoration will take a day or two as dictated by things or cleaning materials that you choose. The time that you need will also be according to the teak’s condition.

If the teak is badly worn out, you’ll have to repeat the essential process several times. Before you get started, make a list of the things that you need, just like the following:

• Cleaning Gloves

One or two pairs of cleaning gloves will protect your hands from any harsh chemical added to the solution. Of course, you’re free to handle it with bare hands, but it’s best to prevent allergies or other kinds of harm.

• Common Powdered Soap

The initial cleaning can be accomplished by a common powdered soap. It refers to the usual laundry soap. The amount of soap that you’ll administer depends on the area that is composed of teak wood.

The scrub that you need in cleaning teak wood is not that special as the one you use at home is fine. It’s efficient in removing dirt that got stuck in the floor for a long period as well as mildew.

Secure 3 to 4 scrubs until you finish the job. You may need more if you have more teak wood in your boat.

• One-Part Cleaner

You will find many teak wood cleaners and they are distinct from each other. The majority of them dissolve in water, while others are in liquid form. They’re formulated for teak wood so discoloration is not something you have to worry about.

The ingredients that you will likely find in them are oxalic and phosphoric acid. These substances are known for their ability in eliminating accumulated dirt.

• Two-Part Cleaner

If you fail to give the teak wood attention for a long time, it’s best to use the two-part cleaner. However, you don’t need to utilize this if you’re satisfied with the effects of the one-part cleaner.

Thus, you have to examine the teak wood to know its condition. This two-part cleaner is tough and can be hard on the teak. But it can excellently wipe out discoloration or mottling.

This thing works on leveling the teak after the cleaning process is done. There are two kinds for you to choose from. They are the belt sander and the high-speed sander. You can also utilize 120-grit sandpaper.

• Brush or Broom?

You need either a brush or broom when dusting off after polishing the teak. The broom you use at home can do the job, but you can opt for a brush instead.

• T eak Oil or Glossy Varnish?

The last coat on the teak is from teak oil or glossy varnish . You have to be mindful of the color of the teak before purchasing a certain product. Make a smart choice so the teak won’t turn dark.

After selecting the appropriate final coat, you have to determine the quantity that can cover the whole teak area in your boat. You need to have enough cans or bottles to not delay the job.

• Foam Brush or Varnish Applicator

You may need 2 to 3 foam brushes when applying the final coating. This brush ensures the desired result as it allows the teak wood to absorb the oil well.

Step 1: Begin the initial cleaning on the floor made of teak wood. Wet the area first, then directly apply the regular powdered soap or the laundry soap. After that, thoroughly scrub the surface to practice an outstanding way of cleaning.

Step 2: Next, you can use the one-part teak cleaner. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions which are written on its label. Or you can find some cleaners in liquid form that can be applied directly.

More so, some are powdered and they need to be dissolved in water following the recommended ratio for efficacy.

Step 3: If the one-part cleaner could not deal with discolored areas or mottling sections, you have to resort to the two-part teak cleaner.

Step 4: The multiple scrubbing will leave the teak uneven. Some grains tend to stick due to the weathering that occurred over time. To level out the marks of thorough cleaning or some mistakes, use the sander to even out the surface.

Always remember to sand every after scrubbing. Before doing it, the cleaner should be completely dry.

Sanding is always essential for teak wood that is severely worn out. Also, this process is required if the cleaning formula has left residue. However, you won’t be obliged in some situations so it’s fine to let go of this step.

Step 5: After sanding and the level surface comes out, another cleaning should be done. It’s the sweeping off the dust and dirt that still adhere on the wood. You have the liberty to use a brush instead of a broom.

Step 6: You have to finalize the restoration with teak oil or teak coat since you make a coat that will protect the teak from the elements. However, some cleaners with useful chemicals dry out in a matter of days so you have to be patient.

Until then, you have to wait before you apply the last protective coating. For application, it can be done by utilizing a foam brush or varnish applicator.

The number of layers depends on the finish that you prefer. Re-apply as needed to achieve what visual concept you want for your boat. The previous coating of teak oil should be dried first before applying another layer.

Read instructions first before application. At present, teak coating for long-lasting shine is not yet available. Apply it every month to meet your desire to have a lustrous teak wood in your boat.

If you’re conscious about the ingredients in teak cleaners sold in the market, you can make one at home. Mix 75% detergent and 25% chlorine to create a teak cleaner.

It’s not bad if you’re picky in choosing the substance, just like when picking chlorine bleach with trisodium phosphate. It’s for gaining extra punch when you’re looking for a strong effect.

What you can gain from using teak oil is not just protection but beautification as well. It brings out the teak’s natural beauty and pattern as well as the oil in it.

Teak oils are made from various kinds of oil. But most of them are from linseed and tung oil. Linseed is affordable and it gives the teak a darker shade. The one with tung is more expensive, but it has resistance against water.

Manufacturers treat teak oils for mildew fighters, UV filters, and other additives that promote protection. Thus, you get numerous benefits from applying it.

Teak wood, just like the other parts of your boat, is exposed to marine pollutants. But the good news is that you can still restore it. There may be several processes and necessary things but it’s worth investing in it.

With this simplified guide on how to restore teak wood on a boat, things became clear to you. Even so, the information helps you better understand the proper handling of teak wood to not further damage its appearance.

I am passionate about water sports and technical fields, so combining both makes me interested in making contents about boat accessories. With my partner, we went on many trips and sports games together, which led us to think about how we can spread our joys and passions to many people.

How to restore a classic sailboat

Restoring a classic sailboat can be a fulfilling and rewarding process, allowing you to create a personalized vessel for exploring the open sea with your family.

How to Restore a Classic Sailboat

Restoring a classic sailboat is a labor of love that can bring immense satisfaction and pride to those who embark on this journey. It’s a chance to breathe new life into a vessel that has seen better days, and to create a unique and personalized space for you and your family to enjoy the open sea. In this article, we’ll guide you through the process of restoring a classic sailboat, from finding the right boat to the final touches that make it truly your own.

Table of Contents

Finding the right sailboat, assessing the condition, creating a restoration plan, hull and deck repairs, interior restoration, rigging and sails, electrical and plumbing systems, engine and propulsion, final touches.

The first step in restoring a classic sailboat is finding the right boat. This can be a challenging process, as there are many factors to consider, such as the size, age, and condition of the boat, as well as your budget and personal preferences.

When searching for a sailboat, consider the following:

• Size : Think about how much space you and your family will need, both for living and storage. A larger boat may offer more comfort and amenities, but it will also require more work and expense to restore and maintain.
• Age : Older boats may have more character and history, but they may also require more extensive restoration work. Be prepared to invest more time and money into an older boat.
• Condition : Assess the overall condition of the boat, including the hull, deck, rigging, sails, and interior. A boat in poor condition may be a good candidate for restoration, but it will also require more work and expense.
• Budget : Determine your budget for both the purchase of the boat and the restoration process. Keep in mind that restoration costs can quickly add up, so it’s important to have a realistic understanding of what you can afford.

Once you’ve found a sailboat that meets your criteria, it’s time to assess its condition in more detail. This will help you determine the extent of the restoration work required and whether the project is feasible for your budget and skill level.

Consider hiring a marine surveyor to conduct a thorough inspection of the boat. They can provide valuable insights into the condition of the hull, deck, rigging, sails, and other components, as well as identify any potential safety issues or structural problems.

Take note of any areas that require immediate attention, such as leaks, cracks, or signs of rot. These issues should be addressed before any cosmetic work is done, as they can compromise the integrity of the boat and lead to more serious problems down the line.

With a clear understanding of the boat’s condition, you can now create a restoration plan. This should outline the work that needs to be done, the order in which it should be completed, and an estimated timeline and budget for the project.

Start by prioritizing the most critical repairs, such as fixing leaks or addressing structural issues. Then, move on to less urgent tasks, such as cosmetic improvements and upgrades.

Be realistic about your abilities and the amount of time you can dedicate to the project. Restoring a sailboat can be a time-consuming and labor-intensive process, so it’s important to have a clear understanding of what you’re getting into before you begin.

The hull and deck are the foundation of your sailboat, and any issues with these components should be addressed as soon as possible. Common problems include cracks, blisters, and signs of rot or corrosion.

To repair cracks or holes in the hull or deck, you’ll need to clean the area thoroughly, remove any damaged material, and fill the void with an appropriate filler or epoxy. Once the repair has cured, sand the area smooth and apply a protective coating, such as paint or gelcoat.

For more extensive repairs, such as replacing large sections of the hull or deck, it may be necessary to consult with a professional boatyard or shipwright. They can provide guidance on the best materials and techniques for your specific boat and ensure that the repairs are done correctly.

Restoring the interior of your sailboat can be a rewarding process, as it allows you to create a comfortable and personalized space for you and your family. Start by assessing the condition of the interior, including the cabinetry, upholstery, and flooring.

If the cabinetry is in good condition, you may be able to simply refinish or paint the surfaces to give them a fresh look. If the cabinets are damaged or outdated, consider replacing them with new, custom-built units that meet your needs and preferences.

Upholstery can be cleaned or replaced, depending on its condition and your personal taste. New cushions, curtains, and other soft furnishings can make a big difference in the overall appearance and comfort of the interior.

Flooring options for sailboats include marine-grade carpet, vinyl, or teak. Choose a material that is durable, easy to clean, and complements the overall aesthetic of the boat.

The rigging and sails are essential components of your sailboat, and their condition will have a significant impact on the boat’s performance and safety. Inspect the rigging for signs of wear or damage, such as frayed lines, corroded fittings, or bent or cracked hardware. Replace any components that are in poor condition or no longer meet safety standards.

Sails should be inspected for tears, fraying, or signs of UV damage. Small repairs can often be made with sail tape or by sewing, but larger issues may require professional repair or replacement. Consider upgrading to modern sail materials and designs for improved performance and durability.

The electrical and plumbing systems on a classic sailboat may require updating or replacement to meet modern standards and ensure safety and reliability. Inspect the wiring, switches, and electrical components for signs of wear or damage, and replace any outdated or faulty parts.

Plumbing systems should be checked for leaks, corrosion, or other issues. Replace any damaged hoses, fittings, or fixtures, and consider upgrading to modern materials and designs for improved performance and ease of maintenance.

The engine and propulsion system are critical to the performance and safety of your sailboat. Inspect the engine for signs of wear or damage, and perform any necessary maintenance or repairs. This may include changing the oil and filters, replacing belts or hoses, or overhauling the entire engine.

The propeller and shaft should also be inspected for signs of wear or damage, and any issues should be addressed promptly. Consider upgrading to a modern, efficient propulsion system for improved performance and fuel efficiency.

With the major restoration work complete, it’s time to add the final touches that make your sailboat truly your own. This may include installing new electronics and navigation equipment, adding custom artwork or graphics, or outfitting the boat with personalized accessories and gear.

Take the time to celebrate your hard work and enjoy the fruits of your labor. Your restored classic sailboat is now ready for new adventures and memories with your family.

Restoring a classic sailboat is a challenging but rewarding endeavor that can provide you and your family with a unique and personalized vessel for exploring the open sea. By carefully assessing the condition of the boat, creating a detailed restoration plan, and tackling the project one step at a time, you can breathe new life into a once-neglected boat and create a lasting legacy for future generations.

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Replacing Teak Decks, the DIY-er’s Way

One couple's deck-refit story, a tale of trading hard labor for cutting costs..

PS contributor Joe Minick and his wife, Lee, are cruising the Mediterranean aboard their Mason 43, Southern Cross.

After 26 years, it was painful, but not surprising, to find our much-esteemed teak deck failing, irreparably. It had started life as half-inch teak planks, bedded, caulked, and fastened in the traditional manner with screws, but weather and wear had finally thinned the teak to the point where splits could often be found radiating from the bungholes.

We extended the life of the deck another season by injecting epoxy into the cracks, but a year later, many had opened again. It was time to make a decision before leaks began to play havoc with the core of the deck.

After years of cruising with a teak deck, we knew most of its pros and cons. Pros: aesthetically pleasing and a first-rate nonskid, kind to bare feet, and relatively easy to clean. Cons: hot in a warm climate, expensive, and potentially high maintenance. We began to think that maybe a change was in order.

As we explored the possibilities, we found it was almost impossible to get any kind of accurate estimate of the cost of converting to a painted deck without knowing more. Was there gelcoat with nonskid under the teak? Was there hidden water damage that would require extensive repairs before the deck could be painted after the teak was removed? A bit of work with a hammer and chisel revealed that there was only fiberglass laminate under the teak, no gelcoat or nonskid.

Damage assessment would have to wait until we removed all the teak, but other problems were apparent. The edge of the coachroof was molded to accept the edge of the teak plank, and scupper drains through the fiberglass cockpit coamings and toerail would be above the deck after the teak was removed.

Converting to a painted deck would require extensive fairing along with several layers of gelcoat and a new nonskid applied. Twice in the past, we had added nonskid coatings to an existing deck. One deck was rolled with a layer of tacky resin that was then painted; the other involved applying a course aggregate to the paint before spray-painting. There are effective paint-on nonskid options, but neither of the products or methods we used produced what I felt was a great offshore nonskid, and both were hard to clean.

The stick-on nonskid Treadmaster, while possibly not meeting everyone’s aesthetic expectations, would provide a truly nonskid surface. (See the November 2021 issue at www.practical-sailor.com for our long-term test of nonskid paints and adhesive-backed pads.)

The estimated cost of a painted deck was mounting rapidly, and I didn’t feel we were qualified to handle the job by ourselves, so we started reviewing options for a new teak deck. Although oily teak defies many kinds of glue, advanced adhesives for this task have been around long enough to establish a good track record. Bonding the teak to the deck means no more worrisome screws and their holes into the deck core. Teak was expensive, but we could handle a lot of the work ourselves, and the total cost was potentially lower than painting, if we could provide much of the labor.

The decision was made, and we arranged for a berth alongside the quay in a marina with a reputable marine carpentry shop. They recommended doing the work afloat to avoid the risk of falling and to avoid the heavy labor of hauling lengths of teak, tools, and weights up a 12-foot ladder. It was good advice.

Major Tasks

We faced several challenges that were easier said than done:

• Removing the deck hardware; virtually everything was bolted through the deck.
• Removing the old teak and preparing the deck for bonding new teak.
• Cutting, bonding, and caulking the new teak.
• Re-installing the deck hardware.

Removing the deck hardware took eight days with two people working 12 hour days. The stanchions and pulpits alone had over 120 bolts through the deck. The list went on and on, including cleats, anchor rollers, windlass, and more, but it was something we could handle. Although labor intensive, it was a good cost-cutter for us.

Removing the old deck was a long and arduous job with a chisel and hammer. We left the screws in place and drove a chisel along under a plank, breaking it off each time a screw was encountered. Unfortunately, the fiberglass laminate under the deck was occasionally nicked by the chisel.

After the teak and all associated rubble were bagged and carted away, the screws were removed with a screwdriver where possible and vise grips where not. We broke a few screws and left them in the deck to be sealed with epoxy during the next phase. A surface grinder cleaned the old caulk off before we filled the old screw holes with epoxy and applied a thin coat of epoxy to the entire deck to repair the chisel scrapes and seal the laminate. This was sanded before bonding, to provide “tooth” for the adhesive. We felt we could handle everything except preparing and bonding the new teak, so we sought the assistance of the carpenter to help with this task.

Teak decks are traditionally laid with an outer panel or frame inside the toe-rail and an inner frame around the coachroof and cockpit coamings. The outer frame may be omitted if the curvature of the rail is mild enough to allow a standard width plank to be sprung into place along the toerail, but an inner frame is almost always required to accept the end of individual planks where the curvature is more pronounced. A king plank is commonly used to join the end of the planks on the bow and at the stern.

The wood shop cut and milled the teak planks to half-inch thickness and three different widths to accommodate the frames, planks, and king plank. The planks were relieved along both edges to about half their thickness to provide a caulking groove, and we were ready to begin.

There is more than one way to spring planks into place for bonding, but a common trick is drill a small hole near the edge of the plank that holds a piece of scrap wood. Then a wedge is driven between it and the plank to spring it into place alongside its neighbor. Heavy weights are applied to hold it while the adhesive cures. The drilled holes should all be repaired with epoxy before installing the next plank, but some installers rely on the adhesive under the next plank to fill them and this may be equally satisfactory.

Caulking, while messy, was straight forward. As the entire deck needed a light sanding, we didn’t tape the seams and relied on sanding to remove the excess. It pays to remove, seal, or cover just about everything for this phase. The caulk dust seems to find its way into every possible opening.

It took a month to re-install the deck hardware. All the holes had disappeared under the new teak, and initially we relied heavily on our plan to re-drill them from below. This worked fairly well for the larger holes we made with hole saws and a drum sander. That changed when it came to drilling the bolt holes perpendicular to the deck and parallel to each other while standing on our heads in a locker. With backing plates on one side and hardware on the other, the holes had to be true.

Fortunately, we had taken the time to measure and mark the location of most holes, using the toerail or coachroof as our reference. In the end, drilling from the top down, where one could more accurately see the angle of the drill, proved to be the best choice, but it would have been difficult without the carefully measured and marked locations.

Considerations and Planning

I estimated the job would take two months, but it actually took us three months and a day to complete, working long hours every day in a climate where it never rained, but the summer heat was intense. Without awnings, we wouldn’t have been able to endure it, but we avoided any chance of rain with several hundred holes in the deck exposed. If rain is expected, you’ll need some means of temporarily closing all holes in the deck until the new teak is in place.

We reused almost all the hardware fasteners. Careful bagging and labeling makes this a lot easier, although a few bent screws must inevitably be replaced, arbitrarily replacing all the fasteners would add significantly to the expense of the project.

A large number of heavy weights will be needed. When planks are sprung into place, there is tendency for an edge to lift that can only be overcome with lots of downward pressure. Pieces of railroad track worked well for us but avoid using sand bags or similar approaches. The flexibility inherent with bags can allow an edge to lift, and it’s vital that the teak be pressed firmly into contact with the deck at all points.

Ends of planks can be readily cut and shaped with a fine-toothed blade in a saber saw and drum sander. If available, a carefully handled pistol grip or D-handle router works well for trimming up, but if in doubt, stick to the drum sander and a sanding block. I made good use of a Dremel tool with a smaller drum sander for shaping smaller openings cut into the new deck for fuel and water fills and the like.

Plan to prepare and lay a maximum of one plank per day per side, and even this will be a long day’s work. Reading up on patterns and layouts for traditional teak decks will help you understand the process of adding a new set of cutouts to the king plank as pairs of planks are laid up to the bow or stern. Actually bonding the king plank is done last, after everything else is in place. Photograph every inch of the deck before you start.

• Teak Decking Systems

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How to Clean, Restore, and Seal Teak Wood on Your Boat

Restoring your weathered teak wood is an easy 3 step process using the  JustTeak™ Teak Restoration Kits . Learn how to clean, brighten, and seal your teak or other wood. This simple teak restoration process can be used on an teak wood including teak furniture and teak decking.

1. Hose down entire areas thoroughly with fresh water. Ensure the teak does not dry during the cleaning process. 2. Applying the JustTeak™ Teak Cleaner with a soft polypropylene cleaning pad, gently scrub the product across the grain of the teak. The teak will tum dark brown and the cleaning pad will fill with dirt. 4. Apply to one area at a time then immediately rinse down entire area with water to remove the cleaner. Repeat if necessary. 

Step 2. (Part 2) Using   JustTeak ™ Teak Brightener on Your Teak Deck

1. Following the application of Part 1: JustTeak™ Teak Cleaner . 2. Hose down entire area with water. 3. Ensure the teak does not dry during the cleaning process. 4. Apply JustTeak™ Teak Brightener  with a soft polypropylene cleaning pad, gently scrubbing across the grain of the teak. The teak will immediate lighten. 5. Apply to one area at a time then immediately rinse down entire area with water to remove the Teak Brightener. Repeat if necessary.

Step 3. Application of JustTeak ™ Teak Sealer

1. For best results apply in temperatures above 10°C (50°F) on a sunny, low humidity day, ensuring the teak is dry. Shake vigorously prior to use. This product must be shaken periodically whilst using to ensure even colouring. Make sure the surface is completely dry prior to application. 2. Apply the JustTeak™ Teak Oil Sealer by either brush, pad applicator or rag. Take note to apply sealer along the length of the board to ensure even coating and avoid line marks. 3. Apply generously. Allow to dry, soak up any areas that may have not absorbed the sealer. When touch dry, apply 1-2 subsequent coats until the teak stops absorbing the sealer. LOOKING AFTER YOUR SEALED TEAK Over time the sealer will start to lose its lustre and water beading capability. A fresh coat of JustTeak : Teak Sealer should be applied to restore the finish. For best results remove the Teak Sealer with JustTeak Cleaner and Brightener and re-apply.

Applying teak oil is a simple and effective way to maintain the beauty and longevity of your boat’s teak wood. Just follow these simple steps and you can ensure that your teak wood surfaces remain protected, shiny, and smooth. Regular maintenance will prevent the wood from drying out, fading, or cracking, and keep your boat looking its best for years to come. So, go ahead and try it out – your teak wood will thank you!

The the best value, choose from our Teak Restorations Kits that include the Teak Cleaner, Teak Brightener, and Teak Sealer for the best Savings!

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Teak Refinishing

• Thread starter FreeBeeTony
• Start date Nov 8, 2003

FreeBeeTony

• Nov 8, 2003

Whats the best method of refinishing teak? I want to give the cabin doors on my '78 Grady a face lift. Looks like they have a coat of varnish on them. Should I use some kind of stripper and then put a new finishing coat on? How about polyurethane?  

Honorary Moderator Emeritus

• Nov 9, 2003

SS MAYFLOAT

Re: Teak Refinishing FBT, JB is right on this, don't doubt the experience of our elders. I refinished my wood trim last spring. Used exterior poly that was guarenteed to last. Yeah Right! By the end of the past season, just about all the poly had flaked off. So now since I didn't have the time to do it right the first time, I have to make time to do it over. Poly is only good for trim that is not exposed to the UV rays. The trim inside my cabin looks just as good as it did when I refinished it.<br /><br />Sorry JB for not following your suggestions. Another case where the Ancient Mariner was right.<br /><br />Good Luck....SS  

Re: Teak Refinishing Thanks guys, glad I asked before I did anything. Another question: how do I know if it's teak? I was assuming it was teak.  

Re: Teak Refinishing Teak as old as yours can be varnished successfully if it is coated on all sides.. although it is true that it has a lot of oil in it when new. I use epoxy with a sun bloc mixed in, I remove the wood, sand it down to clean wood, and coat it on all sides with 5-6 coats. then I put another 5-6 coats of varnish on top, sanding in between coats. the wood is beautiful and will last a very long time if you keep varnishing it twice a year..I have done this to many boats and it has worked very well, It is a lot of work......." how can i tell if it is teak" ,Teak has a very unique look to it, if it is left to the elements, it will turn a dirty grey color, if it has teak oil on it it will be a cloudy golden brown, if it is varnished, it will be a bright golden brown with a very beautiful grain.  

Petty Officer 2nd Class

• Nov 10, 2003

Re: Teak Refinishing I lifted this from another BB:<br /><br />When you coat a 'soft' wood like teak or a slightly harder wood like mahagony with inorganic transparent finishes, all you are doing is coating dead-but-still-living and vapor-permeable moving substrate with an inorganic semi-transparent set of coatings that are out of accord with the expansion ratios with the substrate, where under the sun the natural oils will exude, oxidise and lift the varnish.<br /><br />If effect, wood changes with the weather, and varnish is hard and unchanging, hence, it breaks and lifts at seams and corners. Mahogany holds varnish much better than teak and other oily woods. There are people searching for the 'perfect' shiny finish for teak all the time!! I had no real answer so I posted this....  

Lieutenant Commander

Re: Teak Refinishing WHAT? Teak should be SOFT wood? Don't think so!<br /><br />Teak is one of the few woods that you can use in marine environment without doing anything at all to it. I turns grey OK, but it will last. Clean or sand it, add oil or oil with tanning properties if you like it colored - the teak keeps anyway.<br /><br />By oiling it and keeping it clean you preserve the nice looks. The warm, golden looks is very nice indeed - but the wood itself lasts very well without it.<br /><br />This, ofcourse, provided it is TEAK - some of the teak look-alike exotic 'hardwood' isn't worth nothing! To be used for garden furniture you keep inside.....  

Re: Teak Refinishing I keep giving the advice I read and tried on one of these boards. Use a good clear wood sealer. When I used oil the wood greyed or turned black in less than one season requiring additional cleaning and reapplication very quickly. Clean the old finish off and use a good clear wood sealer. If you want some additional color pick one that is has a gold oak tint. Looks a lot like oiled teak and lasts over a year withoth turning grey or black. I wipe it down in the spring with a little extra sealer and am good for a year.  

Re: Teak Refinishing Has anyone tried boiled linseed oil on teak and had good results? It's probably 3 times less expensive than teak oil.  

crazy charlie

Vice admiral.

Re: Teak Refinishing I have been there and done that many times Tony.I have a rule that has been fool proof.If it is inside the boat,clean with teak cleaner and brightner and lightly sand and use a high quality teak oil,as many coats as it will absorb and it may take several days to apply and absorb.If it is outside the cabin,i do the same steps in preperation and instead of finishing with oil,I finish it with 3 coats of Cetol marine.If you bronze wool between coats do 4 coats then.Your teak will look great and the maintenance will be almost none for at least a few years.Charlie  

• Nov 11, 2003
• Nov 13, 2003

Seaplane1978

Re: Teak Refinishing Believe it or not, Automatic Transmission Fluid does a fine job on Teak. Give it a shot......  

• Nov 14, 2003

Re: Teak Refinishing The auto transmission for teak oil trick is only if you are selling the boat.If you are keeping it ,the smell will be unbearable as long as it looks good.when it starts to look crappy again is when the smell goes away.Charlie  

Re: Teak Refinishing Spent a majority of my childhood making my dads Carver look good. The boat is a 1976 and it still looks great to this day. Bleaching powders with water and a long bristle brush work fine. Every 5 or so years you need to sand a little to clean up areas hard hit by UV or blight.<br /><br />For years we used a mixture of tongue and lemon oil and it looked great. It would give you about a season or less in Wisconsin. It is like any wood, it requires attention to look good. Personally I never liked the varnish look but thats why there is more than one beer at the liquor store.  

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• by Melissa Hammam
• comments ( )

Hands up if you’re ready to be dazzled! From a ceremony structure designed to float on water to a jaw-dropping reception room with flowers blooming from every service, we’re swooning over every bit of this wedding. If you can believe it, that’s just the beginning. Julia Kaptelova artfully shot every detail, like the ballet performance guests were treated to and snow falling from the ceiling for the first dance! Prepare to be amazed and take a visit to the full gallery .

From About You Decor … Our design is a symbol of dawn and a distant endless horizon. Ahead is a long, happy life without any borders. An international couple, Pavel and Cherry, met in London and have been walking together for many years.

From the Bride, Cherry… My husband and I we decided to have our summer wedding in Moscow because the city is where his roots are. As we knew we were going to have the other wedding ceremony in China, we wanted our Moscow one to be very personal and intimate. We’ve known each other since we were fourteen, together with many of our friends whom we’ve also known for a decade.

I didn’t want to walk down the aisle twice so the plausibility of my request quickly came into discussion. The open pontoon stage was constructed in order to facilitate the bridal entrance on water, although there were concerns about safety as the last thing we wanted was probably a drowned bride before she could get on stage, picture that! I have to say on that day it wasn’t easy to get on the pontoon stage from the boat, in my long gown and high heels. Luckily my bridesmaids still noticed even though they stood the furthest from me on the stage, and helped me out without prior rehearsal. My girls could just tell whenever I needed a hand or maybe they were just so used to my clumsiness. Who knows 😂

We all love our photographer Julia! She’s so talented and her style is so unique. Our beloved host Alex is exceptional who made everyone laugh and cry. It was truly a blessing to have so many kind and beautiful souls on our big day. Thank you all!

[iframe https://player.vimeo.com/video/384992271 600 338]

Photography: Julia Kaptelova Photography | Wedding Planner: Caramel | Cake: Any Cake | Invitations: Inviteria | Rings: Harry Winston | Band: Menhouzen | Grooms attire: Ermenegildo Zegna | Wedding Venue: Elizaveta Panichkina | Bridesmaids’ dresses: Marchesa | Bridesmaids’ dresses: Alice McCall | Bride’s gown : Jaton Couture | Bride’s shoes: Manolo Blahnik | Decor : About you decor | Earrings: Damiani | Muah: Khvanaco Studio | Video: Artem Korchagin

More Princess-Worthy Ballgowns

I’m still not convinced this Moscow wedding, captured to perfection by  Sonya Khegay , isn’t actually an inspiration session—it’s just  that breathtaking. From the beautiful Bride’s gorgeous lace wedding dress and flawless hair and makeup to the pretty pastel color palette and stunning ceremony and reception spaces, this wedding is almost too good to be true. Do yourself a favor and see it all in The Vault now!

From Sonya Khegay … It was the last day of April and still very cold in the morning. The weather forecast wasn’t pleasing and no one expected that the sun would come out, but miracles happen and light rain gave way to the warm rays.

I love how all the details went together, you could feel the harmony in everything throughout the entire wedding day from the morning until the fireworks.

A gentle look of the bride, elegant but so airy and unique decor, the fresh and light atmosphere of early spring and, of course, true happiness in the eyes. My heart becomes so warm from these memories, it is always a pleasure to see the birth of a new family of two loving hearts.

Photography: Sonya Khegay | Event Design: Latte Decor | Event Planning: Ajur Wedding | Floral Design: Blush Petals | Wedding Dress: La Sposa | Stationery: Special Invite | Bride's Shoes: Gianvito Rossi | Hair + Makeup: Natalie Yastrebova | Venue: Rodniki Hotel

• by Elizabeth Greene

You really can’t go wrong with simple: a beautiful Bride , perfectly pretty petals , loved ones all around. But add in an amazing firework show  to cap off the night and simple just became downright extraordinary. Captured by Lena Elisseva , with assistance by  Katya Butenko , this rustic Russian celebration is simply fantastic. See it all in the Vault right here !

From Lena Eliseeva Photo …  This cozy and warm summer wedding of gorgeous Natalia and Anton was in the middle of June. The young couple decided to organize their wedding themselves, and the day was very personal and touching. I am absolutely in love with rustic outdoor weddings, and this one is my favourite because of the free and easy atmosphere.

All the decor excluding the bride’s bouquet was made by a team of ten friends of the bride and groom. And it was charming – a light and beautiful arch, eco-style polygraphy and succulents, candy-bar with caramel apples and berries – sweet joys of summer.

At the end of ceremony the guests tossed up white handkerchiefs embroidered by Natalia’s own hands.

The most touching moment was the happy eyes of the groom’s grandmother, the most estimable person on the wedding. And the fireworks were a bright end to that beautiful day.

Photography: LENA ELISEEVA PHOTO | Floral Design: Katerina Kazakova | Hair And Makeup: Svetlana Fischeva | Photography - Assistance: Katya Butenko

These photos from Lena Kozhina are so stunningly beautiful – as in you can’t help but stop and stare – it’s hard to believe it’s real life. But these pics are proof of this gorgeous Bride and her handsome Groom’s celebration at Moscow’s Fox Lodge , surrounded by vibrant colors and breathtaking blooms . Oh, and the idea of prepping for your Big Day outside in the sun ? Brilliant. See more bright ideas right here !

From Lena Kozhina … When we met with the couple for the first time, we immediately paid attention to Dima’s behavior towards Julia. There was a feeling of tenderness and awe, and we immediately wanted to recreate this atmosphere of love, care and warmth on their Big Day.

Later, when we had chosen a green meadow and an uncovered pavilion overlooking a lake as the project site, it only highlighted a light summer mood with colorful florals and a great number of natural woods. The name of the site is Fox Lodge and peach-orange color, as one of the Bride’s favorites, set the tone for the whole design – from the invitations, in which we used images of fox cubs to elements of serving guest tables and other decorative elements with the corresponding bright accents.

Photography: Lena Kozhina | Event Planning: Ajur Wedding | Wedding Dress: Rosa Clara | Shoes: Marc Jacobs | Catering: Fox Lodge | Makeup Artist: Elena Otrembskaya | Wedding Venue: Fox Lodge | Cake and Desserts: Yumbaker | Decor: Latte Decor

The Unique Burial of a Child of Early Scythian Time at the Cemetery of Saryg-Bulun (Tuva)

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Pages:  379-406

In 1988, the Tuvan Archaeological Expedition (led by M. E. Kilunovskaya and V. A. Semenov) discovered a unique burial of the early Iron Age at Saryg-Bulun in Central Tuva. There are two burial mounds of the Aldy-Bel culture dated by 7th century BC. Within the barrows, which adjoined one another, forming a figure-of-eight, there were discovered 7 burials, from which a representative collection of artifacts was recovered. Burial 5 was the most unique, it was found in a coffin made of a larch trunk, with a tightly closed lid. Due to the preservative properties of larch and lack of air access, the coffin contained a well-preserved mummy of a child with an accompanying set of grave goods. The interred individual retained the skin on his face and had a leather headdress painted with red pigment and a coat, sewn from jerboa fur. The coat was belted with a leather belt with bronze ornaments and buckles. Besides that, a leather quiver with arrows with the shafts decorated with painted ornaments, fully preserved battle pick and a bow were buried in the coffin. Unexpectedly, the full-genomic analysis, showed that the individual was female. This fact opens a new aspect in the study of the social history of the Scythian society and perhaps brings us back to the myth of the Amazons, discussed by Herodotus. Of course, this discovery is unique in its preservation for the Scythian culture of Tuva and requires careful study and conservation.

Keywords: Tuva, Early Iron Age, early Scythian period, Aldy-Bel culture, barrow, burial in the coffin, mummy, full genome sequencing, aDNA

Information about authors: Marina Kilunovskaya (Saint Petersburg, Russian Federation). Candidate of Historical Sciences. Institute for the History of Material Culture of the Russian Academy of Sciences. Dvortsovaya Emb., 18, Saint Petersburg, 191186, Russian Federation E-mail: [email protected] Vladimir Semenov (Saint Petersburg, Russian Federation). Candidate of Historical Sciences. Institute for the History of Material Culture of the Russian Academy of Sciences. Dvortsovaya Emb., 18, Saint Petersburg, 191186, Russian Federation E-mail: [email protected] Varvara Busova  (Moscow, Russian Federation).  (Saint Petersburg, Russian Federation). Institute for the History of Material Culture of the Russian Academy of Sciences.  Dvortsovaya Emb., 18, Saint Petersburg, 191186, Russian Federation E-mail:  [email protected] Kharis Mustafin  (Moscow, Russian Federation). Candidate of Technical Sciences. Moscow Institute of Physics and Technology.  Institutsky Lane, 9, Dolgoprudny, 141701, Moscow Oblast, Russian Federation E-mail:  [email protected] Irina Alborova  (Moscow, Russian Federation). Candidate of Biological Sciences. Moscow Institute of Physics and Technology.  Institutsky Lane, 9, Dolgoprudny, 141701, Moscow Oblast, Russian Federation E-mail:  [email protected] Alina Matzvai  (Moscow, Russian Federation). Moscow Institute of Physics and Technology.  Institutsky Lane, 9, Dolgoprudny, 141701, Moscow Oblast, Russian Federation E-mail:  [email protected]

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