capri 18 sailboat review

Catalina Capri 18

With some TLC, a sturdy pocket cruiser becomes the perfect first boat

W hen my husband Richard and I decided to move to rural Door County, Wisconsin, we swore that our time had come at last-we were going to become boat owners. The Door Peninsula has approximately 300 miles of harbor-scalloped shoreline to explore, as well as a tantalizing scattering of islands across its western Green Bay waters and off its rugged northern tip. From our Forestville home, we'd be just a few miles from Green Bay, Sturgeon Bay and Lake Michigan, with a variety of launch ramps and marinas from which to choose. This was a no-brainer. We simply had to have a boat. Our ideal boat would have to be trailerable, giving us access to more distant ports of call when our time off work was limited. It would have to be user-friendly for singlehanded sailing; while we hoped to spend many hours on the water together, neither one of us wanted to forgo a great sail if the other were out of town. And it would have to be stable and solid, a reliable boat on a temperamental lake. As we started our boat search, another criterion reared its head: budget. We didn't have much of one, and this clearly was going to be a problem. It seemed we would never find a boat that could meet all our needs, and we debated worthwhile compromises. Then we discovered a 1986 Catalina Capri 18 named Karma and fell in love at first sight. Catalina Yachts, founded in 1969 by Frank Butler in North Hollywood, California, is one of the world's largest boat manufacturers. The company is recognized for its Fordlike role in bringing sailing to the masses. In fact, in 1995, Butler received a sailing industry leadership award for building boats that are "straightforward, offer price for value (and) are solid and honest." We also knew Catalina had impressive numbers of repeat customers. It clearly was doing something right. In the mid-1980s, Catalina sought to produce a pocket cruiser that would provide the features of a larger yacht in a compact, trailerable and affordable boat. It introduced the Capri 18 in early 1986, and to underscore the effectiveness of the little boat's seaworthy hull and solid performance in both light and heavy wind, singlehanded sailor Shane St. Clair embarked on a 28-day, 2,500-mile voyage from Oxnard, California, to Hawaii aboard his Capri 18 later that year. The message was clear: The Capri 18 may not be the fastest 18-footer out there, but she'll get you there comfortably. We were planning harbor-hopping, sail-camping cruises rather than ocean voyages, but that's what we wanted to hear. The Capri 18's stability comes from its respectable 7-foot, 7-inch beam, relatively hefty 1,500-pound weight and its 425-pound, low-aspect-ratio, internal-ballast lead keel. This keel draws just 2 feet, allowing access to all but the thinnest waters. It also makes launch and haul-out much easier for trailersailors than the word "keelboat" implies. The Capri 18's cruising comfort is built into the details: an extra-long cockpit with 6-foot, 10-inch contoured seats; a forward V-berth and two 7-1/2-foot-long quarterberths that can convert to a single large bunk; large portlights and forward hatch; a complete electrical system, including cabin lights; plenty of storage above and belowdecks, including a molded-in fuel tank locker; a 48-quart portable cooler that doubles as a companionway step and space for a portable toilet under the V-berth. A previous owner added that important optional item for us. While the boat originally came from the factory with a main and jib, we also were pleased to see that a previous owner had added a genoa, spinnaker and small storm jib to Karma's suit. They weren't new sails, but they held their shape reasonably well and would get the job done. The running rigging was in good shape too, and the 6-horsepower Johnson outboard was no crankier than any other 20-year-old Johnson outboard. Our Internet research indicated that other Capri 18s across the country were selling for $2,300 to $7,500, with models available from 1987 through the mid-1990s. (The Capri 18 became the Catalina 18 in 2000.) We felt that Karma's asking price of $3,000 was more than fair, given her good condition, number of amenities and the fact she'd spent her life in fresh water. Research also revealed glowing endorsements. From owners' groups and sailing-related discussion forums, we learned that a singlehander can easily manage stepping the mast, launching the boat and sailing her. We learned that, due to her size and simplicity, hidden maintenance problems are unlikely to rear their ugly heads. One skipper noted she is "well balanced and light on the helm," making her forgiving and kind to less-seasoned sailors. Another observed that the lack of a bulkhead makes belowdecks maneuvering much easier than aboard other pocket cruisers, and still another touted the maximization of storage space and airy feel in the cabin. Karma was just the right boat for us. We brought Karma home late in the sailing season, so we only enjoyed a couple of shakedown cruises before the snow flew: an evening excursion to Little Harbor and a day-trip to Snake Island, where we dropped the hook and went swimming in the late summer sun. All too soon it was time to haul her out and prepare our to-do lists for the following season. We had three lists. The first was the "Hot List," and fortunately this only had two items. Most important was to repair the inner starboard shroud, which was fraying just above the turnbuckle. We took Karma to Great Lakes Yacht Services in Sturgeon Bay, where they fused the new wire the same day-thanks, in part, to my German-born husband's contribution of imported Milka chocolate to the effort. The second item was to replace the trailer tires, which were nearly bald and going flat. Since we weren't planning any hardcore cross-country excursions, Richard went to our local Goodyear Tire Center and purchased two gently used replacements. Our next list was what we affectionately called the "TLC List." We wanted Karma to shine like a new penny, so first we scrubbed her topsides with a mildew stain remover and then her hull with an environmentally friendly hull cleaner. After that, we used a buffing compound to hide the few hull scratches and then, liquid marine wax in hand, took to her with an electric random orbital waxer. We already had sandpaper and varnish thanks to a home-improvement project, so Richard tackled Karma's woodwork-the cabin hatch door, the trim on the sliding cover and the tiller handle-with coarse-grit paper first, medium next and then fine. "I started with sanding down the wood around the entry," he explained. "I used my electric sander for the main areas, a Dremel for the smaller areas and everything else by hand. I sanded the tiller entirely by hand because I didn't want the risk of putting grooves into it or squaring the handle." Once the sanding was done, we applied two coats of varnish. Karma's bottom paint was looking a little rough, so we decided to remove the old paint and apply a new coat. Bottom-painting newbies, we thought a pressure washer might blast off the old coat. "That wasn't so successful," Richard noted wryly, "but it did get the larger pieces off." From there, we carefully removed the rest with a metal scraper and small chisel. Richard used the electric sander and a medium-grit sandpaper to sand down the hull surface, and then we applied two quarts of blue Rust-Oleum Marine Coatings bottom paint. Now we were ready to take on our final list: the "Cruising List." First up was the electrical system. While Karma's running lights seemed to be in working order, the cabin lights weren't functional. So Richard took approximately 50 feet of 14-gauge electrical wire and rewired the cabin. Now we would be able to see down below at night without fumbling with flashlights. Next, in keeping with convenience-at-night theme, he installed an LED light in the cockpit storage locker, located aft to starboard. This small, waterproof utility light emits very little heat, draws little current, is noncorrosive and is shock-resistant, and it's controlled through a switch in the boat's fuse panel. We also installed two chrome floodlights on the top of the mast. Also controlled through a fuse-panel switch, one light is oriented on the foredeck while the other covers the cockpit. In retrospect, these lights were a mistake; in the interest of saving money, we purchased them from Wal-mart. Although they're automotive-grade, they started rusting within weeks. A better addition was the Attwood masthead anchor light, a durable model we purchased through West Marine. This was a must-have if we hoped to do any overnight cruises. Richard ran the wiring down the inside of the mast, tucked within a half-inch PVC tube, and connected it to a fuse-panel switch. Next, we addressed Karma's greatest mystery: the hose to nowhere. After a hard rain, we noticed that the water in the bilge would rise and then sit; it had nowhere to go. A hose ran from the bilge into the starboard cockpit locker but wasn't connected to anything. We purchased a bilge pump with float-switch activation and connected it to the hose. We installed a 3-inch-long, 1-1/2-inch-diameter through-hull fitting-using Liquid Nails as a bedding compound-between the locker and the cockpit, and connected the hose's other end to that. Now, the float switch would activate the bilge pump, and the water would exit the boat via the hose through the locker, to the cockpit's aft end, to the transom drain. This system bypasses the fuse panel entirely and connects directly to the battery. To keep our battery charged, we purchased a Sensei solar battery charger. We can lay this in the cockpit when the sun is shining and pack it away during inclement weather or when we're away. Remembering our afternoon at Snake Island, we also purchased white adhesive nonskid strips and applied them to the Capri 18's little swim platform for an added measure of safety. Although we had hoped to keep our retrofit budget below $600, we decided to splurge and purchase an inflatable Seabo dinghy through our local Sam's Club. The dinghy collapses into its own carry bag for easy onboard storage; it's a great solution for pocket-cruising sailors on the hook or a mooring who wish to go ashore without getting wet. We're already making a new list, of course, as we look toward the 2010 sailing season. Karma's woodwork really should be varnished again. We were too late getting the tarp out in preparation for winter, so this past autumn's leaves did a number on her topsides. The bottom paint needs some touching up, as well. But really, there isn't much. Karma is ready to do what all Capri 18s were designed to do: Get out there.

Project list and cost summary 1986 Catalina Capri 18 $3,000

1. Starboard shroud repair $61.76 2. Gently used trailer tires (2) $40 3. Starbrite Mildew Stain Remover $10.99 4. Starbrite Sea-Safe Hull Cleaner $17.99 5. Chicago Power Tool AC Waxer/Polisher (10") $39.99 6. Scotchgard Marine Liquid Wax (500 ml) $17.99 7. Rust-Oleum Marine Coatings bottom paint (2 quarts, blue) $130 8. LED utility strip light (white) $12.99 9. Chrome floodlights from Wal-mart (2) $35 10. Attwood Anchor/Masthead Light $44.99 11. Rule-A-Matic bilge pump with float switch $39.99 12. Forespar 1-1/2" Threaded Marelon Mushroom Head (3"L) $21.99 13. ICP Global Sunsei Solar Battery Charger (SE-150) $39.99 14. 3M Safety Walk nonskid strips (2" white) $3.99 15. Seabo inflatable dinghy (2.5m) $500 Total retrofit work $1,017.66 (34% of purchase price) Grand Total $4,017.66

Also in Retrofits

• RETROFITS: Bristol 32
• RETROFITS: Manta 42 MkII
• RETROFITS: Catalina 36 MkII
• Our annual guide to retrofitting
• Marshall 22 Catboat
• Swan 46 MK I
• Bayfield 25
• Beneteau Oceanis 430

Also from Staff

• Tor Johnson
• Learn to Sail Better
• New boat: Aureus XV Absolute
• Remembering Hobie
• Catalina 275 Sport
• New boat: Saphire 27

CAPRI 18 (CATALINA) Detailed Review

If you are a boat enthusiast looking to get more information on specs, built, make, etc. of different boats, then here is a complete review of CAPRI 18 (CATALINA). Built by Catalina Yachts and designed by Gerry Douglas, the boat was first built in 1985. It has a hull type of Wing Keel and LOA is 5.49. Its sail area/displacement ratio 18.97. Its auxiliary power tank, manufactured by undefined, runs on undefined.

CAPRI 18 (CATALINA) has retained its value as a result of superior building, a solid reputation, and a devoted owner base. Read on to find out more about CAPRI 18 (CATALINA) and decide if it is a fit for your boating needs.

Boat Information

Boat specifications, sail boat calculation, rig and sail specs, contributions, who designed the capri 18 (catalina).

CAPRI 18 (CATALINA) was designed by Gerry Douglas.

Who builds CAPRI 18 (CATALINA)?

CAPRI 18 (CATALINA) is built by Catalina Yachts.

When was CAPRI 18 (CATALINA) first built?

CAPRI 18 (CATALINA) was first built in 1985.

How long is CAPRI 18 (CATALINA)?

CAPRI 18 (CATALINA) is 4.98 m in length.

What is mast height on CAPRI 18 (CATALINA)?

CAPRI 18 (CATALINA) has a mast height of 6.17 m.

Member Boats at HarborMoor

• Forum Listing
• Marketplace
• Advanced Search
• About The Boat
• Boat Review Forum
• SailNet is a forum community dedicated to Sailing enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about sailing, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, repairs, reviews, maintenance, and more!

Hunter 212 vs Catalina Capri 18

• Add to quote

Hi all...first post.. I'm a newbie looking to buy my first sailboat. I've narrowed it down to two different choices. I'm looking at a used Hunter 212 and a used Capri 18. They both seem like they would suit my needs. I'm just searching for good things and bad things about both. Anyone here have experience with these boats and could you tell me what I should be looking for in purchasing a used one? e.g. common parts to wear out quick? Also, whats the difference between the MK2 Capri and the non.. What year did they become Mk2.. Thanks for any help.. Mike  

I can't speak to those specific boats, but I've had a Catalina Capri 14.2 foot model for over 15 years and it has been a great little boat. Its draft is a mere 3 inches with the board up and it is only ~350lbs so very easy to work with it. Even has a roller furler for the jib. I've done nothing to it, maintenance wise, in all that time other than clean it once each spring and replace the hiking stick once (I ripped it off when the hiking strap gave way and me and my crew ended up in the drink). It is probably worth about the $1200 I paid for it 15+ years ago. Good luck  

A 14.2 sounds good...just can't seem to find one anywhere near me. I live near Nashville. I wish I could say I was near Seattle. That city is definitely one of the places I would like to visit. I've got my eye on a 1989 Capri 18 at Snug Harbor Boats that seems to be reasonably priced although it doesn't include an engine. Thanks Mike  

I owned a Capri 18, but either boat would be fine, depending on which one appeals to you the most.  

I've found a used Capri 18 that seems to be ok judging from the pictures at Snug Harbor Boats in Georgia. I've been reading reviews on the 212 and it seems to have some problems so I think I will go with the 18. Has anyone ever dealt with Snug Harbor Boats previously? Thanks Mike  

Hunter 212 Catalina Hi, I currently own a Catalina 22 and a Hunter 212. The Catalina is a 1970 boat and the 212 is a 2001. The Catalina 22 is a solid boat and so is the Hunter 212. I read all the reviews I could find on the Hunter and it seamed they had a problem with the tiller. I have not found it to be a problem. I have sailed the Hunter in 15mph wind with gust up to 25 and it was solid as a rock. The cabin space inside the boat is different. The Catalina offers a nice table and sitting area with a bench next to it. The forward V birth has very little clearance and I would want to sleep on the 1/2 births or the table area instead. The Hunter has more room inside the boat and more room in the cockpit. The V birth is comfortable and spacious for a 21' boat. The biggest selling point for me was the open transom on the Hunter. It provides me with a swimming platform and easy access when beached. I have used a 3.5 hp motor and a Mini Kota 55 electric motor for auxilary power. The 3.5 was more power than I needed for either boat, but it has the advantages of reserve power. My Hunter was used by a sailing school before I bought it and they probably had a bunch of newbies on the boats. The tiller held up to all that. The maintenance on the Hunter is much less. I still have both boats but will probably keep the Hunter longer.  

Re: Hunter 212 can a 6 feet tall person fit in the v-berth? This boat is on my short list, started a thread here, you can check it out if you like: edit: can't post links as my post count is less than 10, but my thread is in the boat buying section, easy to find how do you find its sailing in light and heavy winds? I contacted Hunter Cs and they mentionned swing keel is only 130lbs out of the total 1800lbs, which started getting me worried about the boat`s stability, especially singlehanded. i see you've changed the keel back to a swing, any idea how much it weighs? how about the boat total weight? just curious if you've weighted them...Guess I want to make sure this boat has the ability to plane early, and that you`re not always finding yourself cutting down on your sail area to stay stable.  

Hunter 212 Hi, I think you would find the V-berth to be long enough for you. I'm 5'10" and it is good for me. I have only tried it out and not slept over night in it. The V berth gives much more space than my Catalina 22. The keel weight is probably less than 200. I have carried it and moved it around before we got it on the boat. I have never reefed the sails on the boat. I have found it to be a very stable boat and I enjoy the heck out of it. I just added a MinKota 45 electric motor for a kicker and took off the 3.5 hp motor and put that on the Catalina. I think it is best if you can try these boats out before buying them to make sure they are right for you. Of course I bought both my boats without sailing on them first. Rick Rmoynahan yahoo  

Original post was September 2007. This is probably a cold trail.  

I heard from Zemaniak and he is taking delivery of a Hunter 212 on Monday. He found a video I posted on Youtube Kaweah Sailing, and left the message there. Rick  

• ?            
• 175.4K members

Top Contributors this Month

Great choice! Your favorites are temporarily saved for this session. Sign in to save them permanently, access them on any device, and receive relevant alerts.

• Sailboat Guide

Catalina Capri 18

Catalina Capri 18 is a 18 ′ 0 ″ / 5.5 m monohull sailboat designed by Gerry Douglas and built by Catalina Yachts starting in 1985.

• 2 / 4 Athens, OH, US 1989 Catalina Capri 18 $4,500 USD View
• 3 / 4 Athens, OH, US 1989 Catalina Capri 18 $4,500 USD View
• 4 / 4 Athens, OH, US 1989 Catalina Capri 18 $4,500 USD View

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

In 2000 Catalina Yachts renamed the CAPRI 18 to the CATALINA 18. Photo courtesy Adam Hunt.

Embed this page on your own website by copying and pasting this code.

Discover Related Sailboats

Catalina 18

• About Sailboat Guide

©2024 Sea Time Tech, LLC

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.

Capri 18 Club

The smallest catalina cruiser, welcome to capri18.com.

This site is dedicate to Catalina Capri 18 Sail boat.

What about Capri 18 that is so special? Here is a quote from one famous Captain who sailed her 2500 miles to Hawaii –

“There are lot of things I like about the Capri 18. I had the shallow-draft version which I think is all they make. Mine had a shallow, long fin keel. It had a big cockpit which you wouldn’t think would be an asset for an ocean crossing, but I had a life raft and a lot of other things in the cockpit for the trip, so I used that space well. I liked the interior too, because it essentially turned into one big bed. Most of the trip to Hawaii I was eating, sleeping or reading. I just did everything from that bed. And I liked that it was unsinkable; it had positive foam flotation. Directional stability was great because of the long fin, and it had an outboard rudder hung well aft. The last 5 days of that trip were in 40 or 50 knot winds and 40-foot seas. It was huge water! The first day I was severely intimidated. Then about 8:30 or 9:00 that morning I saw a school of about 20 dolphins cavorting in those big waves—swimming under and around my boat and diving into the face of the waves. As I watched them, I thought, if they can have a good time in this why can’t I? So the next 5 days I just surfed that boat. I averaged 12 nautical miles an hour! I did 120 miles a day sailing only 10 hours a day. Literally, I’d drop off the waves and surf for minutes on end with a wake like a ski boat behind me.  And the boat was perfectly controllable! Whatever I wanted to do at that speed, it was just a matter of moving the rudder a little bit and boom— it would drop left, right, cut—whatever. It was the most incredible sailing I have ever had!”

Capt. SHANE ST. CLAIR

Leave a comment cancel reply.

• Already have a WordPress.com account? Log in now.
• Subscribe Subscribed
• Copy shortlink
• Report this content
• View post in Reader
• Manage subscriptions
• Collapse this bar

Capri 18 catalina

The capri 18 catalina is a 18.0ft fractional sloop designed by frank butler/gerry douglas and built in fiberglass by catalina yachts since 1985..

The Capri 18 catalina is a light sailboat which is a good performer. It is very stable / stiff and has a low righting capability if capsized. It is best suited as a day-boat.

Capri 18 catalina for sale elsewhere on the web:

Main features

Login or register to personnalize this screen.

You will be able to pin external links of your choice.

See how Sailboatlab works in video

We help you build your own hydraulic steering system - Lecomble & Schmitt

Accommodations

Builder data

Other photos

Modal Title

The content of your modal.

Personalize your sailboat data sheet

Paste a link here:

Give it a title:

And eventually a link to an image for the thumbnail:

• Create an Account
• Back Issues ::
• Year 2004 (Issues 25-30) ::

Issue #30 Nov/Dec 2004 Features Catalina (Capri) 18 Review

Review of Capri 18

Basic specs..

The hull is made of fibreglass. Generally, a hull made of fibreglass requires only a minimum of maintenance during the sailing season. And outside the sailing season, just bottom cleaning and perhaps anti-fouling painting once a year - a few hours of work, that's all.

The boat equipped with a fractional rig. A fractional rig has smaller headsails which make tacking easier, which is an advantage for cruisers and racers, of course. The downside is that having the wind from behind often requires a genaker or a spinnaker for optimal speed.

But be aware that even though a Wing Keel keel is very good for speed racing, a fishing nets and the like in the water can easily make you into a troublesome situation.

The boat can enter even shallow marinas as the draft is just about 0.71 - 0.81 meter (2.33 - 2.63 ft) dependent on the load. See immersion rate below.

Sailing characteristics

This section covers widely used rules of thumb to describe the sailing characteristics. Please note that even though the calculations are correct, the interpretation of the results might not be valid for extreme boats.

What is Capsize Screening Formula (CSF)?

The capsize screening value for Capri 18 is 2.65, indicating that this boat would not be accepted to participate in ocean races.

What is Theoretical Maximum Hull Speed?

The theoretical maximal speed of a displacement boat of this length is 5.4 knots. The term "Theoretical Maximum Hull Speed" is widely used even though a boat can sail faster. The term shall be interpreted as above the theoretical speed a great additional power is necessary for a small gain in speed.

The immersion rate is defined as the weight required to sink the boat a certain level. The immersion rate for Capri 18 is about 77 kg/cm, alternatively 431 lbs/inch. Meaning: if you load 77 kg cargo on the boat then it will sink 1 cm. Alternatively, if you load 431 lbs cargo on the boat it will sink 1 inch.

Sailing statistics

This section is statistical comparison with similar boats of the same category. The basis of the following statistical computations is our unique database with more than 26,000 different boat types and 350,000 data points.

What is Motion Comfort Ratio (MCR)?

What is L/B (Length Beam Ratio)?

What is a Ballast Ratio?

What is Displacement Length Ratio?

What is SA/D (Sail Area Displacement ratio)?

Maintenance

When buying anti-fouling bottom paint, it's nice to know how much to buy. The surface of the wet bottom is about 11m 2 (118 ft 2 ). Based on this, your favourite maritime shop can tell you the quantity you need.

Are your sails worn out? You might find your next sail here: Sails for Sale

If you need to renew parts of your running rig and is not quite sure of the dimensions, you may find the estimates computed below useful.

This section is reserved boat owner's modifications, improvements, etc. Here you might find (or contribute with) inspiration for your boat.

Do you have changes/improvements you would like to share? Upload a photo and describe what you have done.

We are always looking for new photos. If you can contribute with photos for Capri 18 it would be a great help.

If you have any comments to the review, improvement suggestions, or the like, feel free to contact us . Criticism helps us to improve.

Which Sailboat?

Catalina (Capri) 14.2 Review

The Catalina Capri 14.2, known later as simply the Catalina 14.2, is an excellent sport sailboat and day sailer oriented toward family and youth use.  The boat was designed by Ted Carpentier and Frank Butler of Catalina Yachts .  Catalina derived the boat from the Omega 14 produced by Frank Butler’s Coronado Yachts prior to the formation of Catalina Yachts.  After the formation of Catalina Yachts, the Omega 14 design was modified by adding a foredeck and a cuddy beneath the foredeck to create the Capri 14.2.  Since 1983, over 5,200 Catalina 14.2s have been built.   Production continues .

While Catalina 14.2s are frequently used for family cruising, the boat can provide an exhilarating sailing experience due to its semi-planing hull and clearly sporting sail-area-to-displacement ratio of 36.  As a family sport boat and day sailer, the Catalina 14.2 is primarily composed of a large cockpit that easily holds 4 adults.  One owner reports sailing inland lakes and bays of the Outer Banks in the eastern U.S. with his wife and 3 children aboard, and with the cuddy and areas beneath the cockpit seats laden with camping supplies.  Forward of the dominant cockpit, a large cuddy cabin provides storage for day sail, picnic and camping supplies, batteries, and emergency equipment.  As expected for a sport boat or day sailer of this size, the cuddy provides no berths, head, or galley.  (If berths, galley, or head are important to you, consider the Catalina 22 , which is also easily trailered.)

The Catalina 14.2 benefits from its large production volume, long production run, that its manufacturer is still in business, and a plethora of parts continue to be available from the manufacturer and  Catalina Direct .  Active Catalina 14.2 class racing fleets and events exist but are limited compared to some other small sailboats such as Flying Scots, Moths, and Lasers.  Presumably, this is because of the boat’s intended purpose and reputation as a family sport boat and day sailer, rather than a class racing boat.

INDENTIFYING VARIOUS CATALINA 14.2 MODELS

Three models of the Catalina 14.2 have been produced since 1983.  The different models are popularly deemed “Mod 1”, “Mod 2”, and “Mod 3”.  The Mod 1 models have a single open space below decks and came from the factory with a marine plywood hatch to enclose the cuddy and the rest of the space.  The Mod 2 models, introduced around 1990, had a fiberglass box glued inside the entrance of the cuddy, which while preventing water intrusion into the cuddy and the rest of the hull in the event of a capsize, also made the potential storage space in the cuddy inaccessible and made maintenance of the inside of the hull more difficult.  Mod 2 models had a canvas covering over the hatch to hide the box.  Six years later in 1996, Catalina introduced the Mod 3, which removed the fiberglass box and included a water-tight bulkhead at the aft end of the cuddy, making for three nearly water tight areas in the hull, including the cuddy with the hatch installed and a space under each cockpit seat.  Mod 3 boats were delivered with a more durable and watertight plastic hatch for the cuddy.  Also on the Mod 3 boats, the wooden splash guards at the aft end of the deck where removed and instead the deck was simply rounded up from the forward end of the cockpit coamings.

The Catalina 14.2 hull is solid hand-laid fiberglass.  The deck is also solid fiberglass laminate with a molded-in non-skid pattern.  The deck is attached to the hull in Catalina’s standard shoebox design.  Unlike larger Catalina boats intended for more rigorous sea conditions, on Mod 1 and Mod 2 models the deck is fastened to the hull only with chemical bonding – there are no mechanical fasteners.  On Mod 3 boats, Catalina also through-bolted the hull-to-deck joint.  Older Catalina 14.2s may suffer damage of the hull-to-deck joint so that the water-tightness of the joint is compromised.  After suffering such damage, many owners strengthen the joint with mechanical fasteners with relative ease, as the joint is easily accessible at the gunwale.

Due to the design of the Catalina 14.2’s gunwale and exposed hull-to-deck joint, installation of a rub rail can serve to protect the hull-to-deck joint from damage.   Installation is straightforward.  Several rub rails from Taco Metals in Miami, Florida work well, particularly this white flexible vinyl model with white flexible vinyl insert .

The hull is stiffened with several plywood stringers beneath the cockpit, which also support the cockpit sole, reducing flex under foot.  The seats normally flex under foot, which while initially unsettling, provides for a more comfortable ride.  Due to the more rounded and thus stronger foredeck and the additional bulkhead at the aft end of the cuddy, Mod 3 boats are stiffer than Mod 1 and Mod 2 boats.

While wood stringers could be cause for alarm, few Catalina 14.2s see enough water left in the hull to cause rot.  If rot is discovered, replacing the stringers can be difficult due to tight working conditions inside the hull.  A few owners with rotted stringers reported solving the problem by knocking out the old wood and pouring water-resistant closed-cell expandable foam under the cockpit sole and seats.  Depending on the density of the foam selected, positive buoyancy is an additional benefit of such a repair.  Water-resistant closed-cell foam is crucial for this application.  The  TotalBoat Liquid Urethane Foam Kit, 6 Lb Density, Closed Cell for Flotation & Reinforcement works well for this application, providing both structural strength and positive buoyancy.

As delivered from the factory, the Catalina 14.2 lacks positive buoyancy materials in the hull.  If the hull is allowed to fill with water, the boat will sink.  On Mod 1 and Mod 3 boats, securing the cuddy hatch board fast whenever underway is paramount.

Catalina fitted foam plugs in the end of the mast on later boats, intended to provide some buoyancy in the mast to prevent turtling if capsized.  However, the relatively broad beam of the boat limits the effectiveness of this design because most of the mast remains out of the water unless turtled.  Many owners fit Hobie Baby Bob flotation bulbs (available on Amazon) to the top of their masts so that if the boat is knocked down, the boat does not turtle.

KEEL CONFIGURATIONS AND RUDDER

The vast majority of Catalina 14.2s were delivered with a pivoting centerboard that kicks up if grounded.  The centerboard is held in place when down by a shock cord that is connected from the aft end of the top of the centerboard to the transom at the end of the cockpit.  The rudder also kicks up.  Earlier boats have a solid wood centerboard while later boats have a foam-cored fiberglass centerboard.   Rudders are wood or foam-cored encapsulated in fiberglass.   Solid HDPE rudders are available from Catalina Direct.   A medium-aspect fixed keel was also offered that added 200 lbs of ballast to the boat, which makes her slower but more stable, closer to an older-style traditional day sailer.  Catalina named the boats with the fixed keel the Catalina 14.2 K.

As a semi-planing boat displacing little water, the centerboard model requires no centerboard trunk.  The centerboard simply slides through a slot with only a few inches separating the floor of the cockpit from the water below.  With enough speed, water can spray up through this slot into the cockpit.  Catalina Direct offers a  canvas gasket  to surround the centerboard in the slot, which prevents this spray.

The Catalina 14.2 is rigged a as a fractional sloop with a self-tacking jib.  The mast is anodized aluminum and supported by a stainless steel headstay and single set of swept-back anodized aluminum spreaders with stainless steel shrouds.  The shrouds include adjustable brackets rather than turnbuckles that make rig adjustments quick if not entirely precise.  However, the headstay includes a turnbuckle which can be used to achieve precise rig tuning.  There is no backstay, which makes un-stepping the mast easier and frees up the cockpit under sail.  The rig is very light-weight so that one person can ease the mast down when un-stepping and push it up when stepping, although another person is handy to guide the mast with the forestay.  All other rigging hardware is stainless steel.  In 2012, Catalina changed to a Selden made rig.  From the factory, the boom has no uphaul so that when the mainsail is dropped, the boom falls into the cockpit.  Some owners install an uphaul, rigid boom vang, or boom kicker to prevent this.

As appropriate with a family sport boat or day sailer, all control lines are easily accessible from the cockpit.  The mainsheet is managed from a stout spring-mounted pivoting block and jam cleat in the center of the cockpit.  Jib sheets are managed from jam cleats on the side decks.  The side decks also include a jib car track and cars that allow precise adjustment of jib sheeting angle.  With sails of this size, no winches are necessary.

The cockpit of the Catalina 14.2 offers good sole depth, seat width, and coaming height for relative comfort in a sport oriented boat.  The coaming height and side deck height may be considered low for some less interested in an exciting sail, or more accustomed to day sails in a Flying Scot or a more traditional day sailer design.  The cockpit seats are long enough to sleep upon.  The relatively small surface area of the cockpit sole, cockpit seats, side decks, and forward deck are small enough to prevent much flex.

Forward of the cockpit above the cuddy is a solid deck which is handy when dealing with the jib although feels less than secure in rough water.  The side decks are reasonably wide as well.

The only brightwork on the Catalina 14.2 comprised splash guards installed at the front of the cockpit and above the hatch to the cuddy, only on Mod 1 and Mod 2 boats.  These boards are easily removed for complete refinishing if necessary.  Mod 3 boats had this brightwork eliminated.

The Catalina 14.2 can be a very exciting boat to sail.  Hiking straps were installed throughout the cockpit from the factory.  With its semi-planing hull, the boat achieves speeds great in excess of a displacement hull sailing boat.  Its relatively deep centerboard and rudder provide excellent grip for pointing to windward.  Riding close to the water, the boat’s occupants easily sense the speed at which they glide over the water.  Due to its semi-planing hull and small size (and like most small sailboats), the Catalina 14.2’s pointing ability suffers immensely with blown out or otherwise worn out sails.

AUXILIARY POWER

The Catalina 14.2 did not come from the factory with any auxiliary propulsion, but an outboard motor mount was an option.  Many owners use rowing paddles for auxiliary propulsion, but due to the beam of the boat and the orientation of the side decks, paddles are difficult to use.  Many owners install small outboards, 1-3 h.p. are more than adequate for propelling the boat.

Electric trolling motors are a popular choice for auxiliary propulsion with a battery installed at the aft end of the cockpit against the transom or in the cuddy.  Either way, the battery should be installed in a watertight battery box secured in place with mounting hardware.  Due to the easily-driven semi-planing hull, electric trolling motors are an effective means for auxiliary propulsion, with only the smallest 30 thrust-lbs models necessary for adequate propulsion.  For owners interested in sailing into a headwind off a beach or against a tide, auxiliary propulsion is paramount.

The Catalina 14.2 is easy to trailer with nearly any vehicle due to its light weight of 340 lbs.  Due to its light weight, trailers require only a single axle.  The relatively flat bottom and retractable centerboard make trailers intended for power boats work as an effective trailer.  Trailering is easy due to the boat’s simple rig – only the forestay must be disconnected to unstep the mast.

In addition to an excellent family sport boat and day sailer, the Catalina 14.2 also makes an interesting tender for the right liveaboard or cruiser.  With its weight of 340 lbs, the boat can be rigged for davits or simply towed if the sailor is not against towing a dinghy.  Despite being a semi-planing boat and having an open slot for the centerboard in the cockpit sole, the Catalina 14.2 with its wide flat bottom has more initial stability than most tenders and can be well laden with crew and supplies without shipping water through the slot.  However as the boat is laden, its ability to point to windward suffers greatly.  The same owner who reports sailing with his family, children, and camping supplies, also reports being unable to point better than a beam reach without auxiliary power as the boat was so overladen.  With a larger electric trolling motor, large battery installed, and combined with a solar panel for charging the battery, the Catalina 14.2 can power through adverse currents with excellent if not unlimited range.

Due to the excellent build quality and simplicity of the Catalina 14.2, the ready availability of spare parts, and that the manufacturer is still in business producing new Catalina 14.2s, resale values of the Catalina 14.2 remain high.  New boats sell for over $6,000.  Nevertheless, neglected Catalina 14.2s can be had on the used boat market at a steep discount, making the boat a potentially excellent value on the used market.  Prices vary widely between $1,500 and $4,500,  depending on the year of the boat, installed accessories like motors, condition of the sails, hull condition, the condition of the trailer if included with the boat.  Neglected boats can be made ship shape for a modicum of investment compared with larger boats and typical tenders.  At the time of writing, only two Catalina 14.2s are available on Yachtworld.com , but many making good options are available on Craigslist.

ADDITIONAL RESOURCES

Used Catalina Capri 14.2s for Sale on Craigslist Nationwide

Catalina 14.2 Brochure

CATALINA 14.2 UNDER SAIL, TACKING

CATALINA 14.2 RIGGING GUIDE

CATALINA 14.2 CLASS RACING

Share this:

2 thoughts on “ catalina (capri) 14.2 review ”.

• Pingback: 1988 Catalina Capri 14.2 sailboat for sale in Virginia | Boats & Yachts For Sale | Used Boats and New Boats For Sale

Great article – thanks! I believe I have heard that the Capri 14.2 Mod 1 had a hollow transom and that the transom was reinforced (made solid) on a later mod (2 or 3). Which mod was this, and do you know the specs of how much thrust or weight each mod can handle?

Leave a comment Cancel reply

Blog at WordPress.com.

• Already have a WordPress.com account? Log in now.
• Subscribe Subscribed
• Copy shortlink
• Report this content
• View post in Reader
• Manage subscriptions
• Collapse this bar

new york yacht cruise

• Forums New posts Unanswered threads Register Top Posts Email
• What's new New posts New Posts (legacy) Latest activity New media
• Media New media New comments
• Boat Info Downloads Weekly Quiz Topic FAQ 10000boatnames.com
• Classifieds Sell Your Boat Used Gear for Sale
• Parts General Marine Parts Hunter Beneteau Catalina MacGregor Oday
• Help Terms of Use Monday Mail Subscribe Monday Mail Unsubscribe

About to buy Catalina/Capri 18 but.......*yks

• Thread starter Tom
• Start date Nov 4, 2003
• Catalina Owner Forums
• Smaller Boats

Hello all, been a fan of this forum for awhile. I may be buying a Capri 18 with trailer soon but desperately need two "real world" pieces of information. 1) Can a sloop rigged capri 18 (2' draft, 2000lbs disp) be launched/rigged single handed? and 2) can a Capri 18 on a trailer fit (height) in a two car garage? ANY feedback would be much appreciated!!!! Thank you all. Tom  

Capri 18 I own a Capri/Catalina 18 and have been very happy with it as the choice for our first boat. It can be rigged by one person easily if the mast is up. Still possible w/ the mast down, but best to find someone to at least help you step the mast. As far as fitting into your garage, the mast is 23' 2" long. So, I guess it depends on the depth of your garage. Can't tell you how high the boat sits on the trailer, which was really your second question.  

Thanks for input! This will be my family's first boat as well. I've been sailing on and off for about 8 yrs mostly on larger boats (25'-27'), and now wish to purchase a safe trailerable boat that could be sailed/rigged/launched by one person. I've heard it can be difficult to launch from the trailer and requires a very steep ramp, any thoughts? Thanks again for the feedback!! -Tom  

Easy to rig!! But measure carefully Tom:I have a newer C-18, and have rigged/derigged by myself many times, starting/ending with the mast down. I do have a mast raising system (much like the Macgregor system, uses baby stays and a gin pole attached to the base of the mast), but I only use it about half the time. The rest I just heave it up. Easier with help if you don't use the mast raiser.I should note that I also have roller furling, so the weight of the genoa on the furler adds a good bit to the load you need to lift.As far as height, I don't think it will go under a standard garage door. The lifeline stantions are about 7'2" on mine. Measure carefully. Also, as Tom B. mentioned, the mast is longer than most standard garages, and the boat/trailer package is considerably more than 18'.A thought, if you can handle the length, I have a friend can fit his into a standard garage door by taking the wheels off the trailer and sitting it on a very low slung dolly he built just for this. Its quite a project, he only does it for winter storage - it wouldn't work for every day type stuff.Anyway, enjoy. My wife and I love ours, sail more than we ever did on our larger boat, and are really happy with how comfortable it is for overnighting.Ask away if you have other questions.  

I forgot Sorry, didn't answer all your question(s).It can be launched easily by one person, at least the newer ones can. My trailer has about a six foot tongue extension built in, so with that out, I can just back in 'till it is barely floating, and walk it off. Same in reverse for retrieval - just float it on, hook it up, and winch it tight. Takes longer to write it than to do it.I do have to wade a little when I'm by myself - with help, I can stay dry (and this time of year here in Denver, I wear waiders).Just a thought - the Capri 16 is just a little smaller all the way around, so if your biggest concern is the garage fit, you may want to look at them. Potential problem is that there aren't many of them out there - I have only ever seen one, brand new, at the local dealer.Again, ask away with anything else.  

Thanks Dave Thanks for the input....it helps! The capri 18 I'm hoping to buy is a 1987 model. To your knowledge, are there any common problem areas to look out for. I'm not planning a professional survey due to the relatively low sale price.  I'll check the deck, stanchions, and life line areas for soft spots and the hull for blistering. Are there capri specific problem areas I should check? The boat apparently has been sailed each season. Thanks again.  

I'm not aware of specific problem areas... Hey - no problem, glad to help.I'm not aware of any consistent problem areas with these boats. They are really fairly straight forward, very durable.I have seen some with a little star cracking around the fuel locker edges - nothing structural, and not much concern.You might want to check out the Capri/Catalina National Association site, there are some good articles there, and someone might know of specifics for that year.http://www.catalina18.net/  

Mike Moyers

rigging single handed is easy I have a Catalina Capri, shoal draft keel, hull #1. Have owned it a little over 10-years and most of the time single hand sail it. Even when others go along I still like to step the mast and rig it myself. First time out it will help to have someone help raise the mast and attach the forestay pin.Later you can figure out some helpful stuff that you can make yourself to support single handing the whole mast stepping, rigging business.I made a mast crutch that fits into the rudder gudgeons and has a 5" roller on the top. It's long enough that the mast clears cabin when attached to mast step and laying on crutch. With this I can attach and detach the mast myself, me lifting the mast step end and rolling the other end ourward or inward on the crutch roller.I also adopted someone else's idea of attaching a couple of springs (roughly 6" x 1" and 90# strength) to the loose end of the forestay , and hooking this to the trailer winch line, and cranking up the slack between there and the bow pulpit to tension the forestay with the mast still down and laying on the crutch. The tensioned springs give a tremendous assist in lifting (grunting up) the mast (you don't need this as one person can grunt up the mast, but what a help this is). As it goes up the assist goes from lots to none as forestay slacks. Mast up but still unstayed requires you to hang on to the jib halyard and walk forward to tie off the halyard on the bow pulpit. Then you can pin the forestay, untie the jib halyard and your are mast up. The going forward with the Jib halyard is a bit scary the first time or two, but confidence builds over a few tries. Can help keep the mast up during this maneuver by first disconnecting trailer and cranking trailer jack down to lowest level, tips boat bow down and slightly leans mast forward. Playing with springs is not without risk, so be alert to the rig and be careful.I attached a pully to the top center of the bow pulpit to get a better angle on the tensioned trailer winch line/forestay connection for mast raising.About getting the Capri 18 in the garage...forget it.Probably more than you wanted. Have enjoyed my Capri 18 for years. Thinking about moving to a San Juan 21 (only older boats available, a challenge). May have my Capri 18 for sale later this winter or spring.Good luck!  

launching single handed Forgot to mention single handed launching. Like someone else responed, you can expect to do some wading to get to the wench both launching and retreving.Launching I tie a 20' line to the trailer winch post, back trailer into the water until boat floats or almost floats, hit the brakes and watch her slide off. Avoid a real yank on the line by backing SLOWLY. Retrieving, I made a couple of 6' guide stakes and attached them to the trailer fenders with 90-degree angle brackets. This does a better job of guiding boat onto trailer on steep ramps than do the keel guide boards. I also always retrieve using two 20' lines attached one each to bow and to stern. It's amazing how much control you have over the boat this way. Pull her forward by tugging on the stern line while steering with the bow line. You'll get the hang of it after a couple of tries. Can ever "sail" her onto the trailer this way if some breeze to use the hull as a sail surface. Try it sometime.  

• This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register. By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. Accept Learn more…