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What sailboats are "worth" restoring

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If one was to take on a project boat, a backyard special or dock queen I suspect that some brands/models may be generally considered a better choice than others. First a couple of definitions: Worth: I'm assuming that any sailboat restoration is not going to be profitable. So by worth I'm not saying it could be sold for a profit. By worth I thinking in terms of, great sailing, reasonable resale value, historical value, amazing design not just dollars. Restore: This one is a bit vague too. Not necessarily a like new refit but sail-able. What are some brand/models you may or may not personally choose to restore but would at least understand the call and what makes that boat worthy in your view. For example normal but put on this list is the Pearson Triton. Nice shape hull, solidly build nice lines good reputation.  

Any Hinkley. Any Herreshoff design. Any Alberg boat. They are all the same, just different lengths and different builders. Any boat that makes you see the potential, and you can defend without rationalizing when you inevitably have "the talk" with your significant other.  

Hello, Good thread. I can't imagine someone letting a Hinkley or Herreshof get that bad in the first place. Personally, I would think Tartan or Sabre. I think that some Sabres had problems with leaking chainplates resulting in wet decks. One of those could be a good choice to restore. Barryh  

Worth is personal, to a point. In locating my hull, I had specific things in mind, and the fact that the interior was in poor shape had little bearing on my final choice, as it is my intent (the scope of the project) to customize it to suit myself. So very few boats out there would have met my needs off the shelf anyway. Having just spent part of this morning looking at a "project" that was sadly not salvageable, and being one of those sorts of dreamers that feels sadness at the thought of a fine old hull disintegrating through neglect, I suppose any reader can quickly peg me as "one of those"... Since most (I'm sure the yacht brokers would quibble and I wouldn't argue that their viewpoint is invalid, at least from their standpoint) would agree that resale value has little to do with worth, you have to decide somewhere along the line what you're going to commit to a project. And is it something with a big budget up front, or will it be a little along (which is the typical American backyard mechanic's way of doing things)?  

I am quite happy with my Peterson 34, which I brought back from the brink. Some other designs that I think would be worthwhile projects: J35 Cal 40 C&C 35 I would think you should be looking for a boat that has a well-known reputation for its sailing qualities, and for which the original construction was decent (the Hinckley's and Alberg's mentioned above, for example). I would steer clear of boats that have a reputation for being cheaply-built. There's nothing really wrong with production lines like Bristol, Pearson, Catalina, but they don't really stand out, either. Of course, much depends on your intended use!  

I think that the question is too vague. Any boat is worth restoration if the end product meets the owner's needs and budget. The rest is just a matter of scale. There are "good" boats and "bad"; SailNet has lots of threads extolling the virtues and deficiencies of many brands. While I agree with BarryL about the virtues of Sabres and their chainplate issues, the list could be expanded greatly.  

I would have to say that the Montgomery line of boats are well worth restoring, I would love to find a M17 to restore myself I love that boat! But any boat really is probably worth restoring as long as the restorer thinks so.  

I would say anything that can be brought back to life in one off season, but I like sailing more than restoring.  

Good Point  

A boat that sails well, was originally well built for its day. All older boats have issues, but the "project" should be restoring the boat to its original quality and modifying items you would like to change, but not to make up for bad design or build to start with. Everybody's eye for beauty is different, and I forget who said it but when rowing away you should want to turn around for another look. Hinckley, Sabre, CS, C&C, Cal, Pearson (Triton and others), Alberg, Spencer (B.C. built), Bristol, Contest, SHE (UK), Rival, Contessa (26 & 32) and many others as well as custom boats from good designers, S&S, Peterson, Rhodes, Lapworth, Crealock, Herreschoff (probably wood), Perry, Tripp and others. And the Vega 27 all except for one.....  

mitiempo said: And the Vega 27 all except for one..... Click to expand...

An S&S Swan... specifically a 44.  

Did Olin Stephens ever design a bad boat? Any of the early Swans would be candidates for a proper restoration.  

I think the question also depends on your skills, your tool collection and the amount of time you can devote to the project. If you're very handy, have lots of room, lots of tools and lots of time, then most of your investment is sweat equity.  

How about this one? PJ Photos: Clearwater Renovation | poughkeepsiejournal.com | Poughkeepsie Local News | Poughkeepsie Journal  

By far the big issue is being able to insure your master piece for anything remotly close to its "illusive" value In general a 1975 boat has value X and i have found i can insure new parts above that BUT NOT labor  

tommays said: By far the big issue is being able to insure your master piece for anything remotly close to its "illusive" value Click to expand...

I would say my Catalina 30 (85) was and is a good resto project....but then again I am biased! BUT after all new rigging, sails, electric, plumbing, interior refinishing etc I will only be in it for about 15k and that is a good deal!. I am putting a value of ZERO on my labor but I will keep her for some time so the illusionary 50k in labor dont matter now does it? They do seem to hold their resale though. Josh  

I would be interested in that project. Have you written it up any place? What did it cost? What about the engine? Mind giving us a general breakdown on the budget items?  

I'd want to restore that old shoe of a hinkley because why?!?!?!?! Any way, reality is, as mentioned, "in the eye of the beholder"! If some folks did not want to restore an old model T, there would be none! or cobra charlie and his old woody! I would not do it, but Charlie would! Some would say what I did not my 85 Jeanneau was not worth it. to me it was and still is. So, the real answer is, "it depends" on whether you need them or not after you get the bill for the fix up/repairs to make the restoration shine! marty  

What sailboats are worth restoring? The one the person without the cash to buy a boat in good condition, nor desire (or ability) to borrow the money to do so is thinking of. It allows someone to buy a project at any level from needing a bit of work to probably the condition of the Vega on the other threads. And with money spent on a pay as you go basis and a lot of sweat equity they get a boat they couldn't afford to pay cash for. I think a lot of people do this. One only has to look at threads on this site, the Plastic Classic forum and the owner's groups. Hopefully they do a reasonable job of it. Because the problem with fiberglass boats is they don't go away, easily at least. Old wooden boats when totally ignored to eyesore stage have the decency to fade from sight eventually through rot and decay. But an ugly, ignored, filthy fiberglass boat seems to last forever.  

The restore in one season will depend upon free time you have to do the work, assuming you are doing the work! In Charlies case right now, he appears to have a few $$$ in the bank, maybe some unemployment to work a lot on Oh Joy! So potentially he could restore her in one season, Mean while if he was back at Boeing working as some are, 50-70 hrs a week, said restore of Oh Joy might take 5-10 yrs! In the end, it still comes down to the depends part, what your finances are, what you like, are willing to do etc. You could buy an older X-Yacht, take it to Denmark, and the factory will restore/refinish everything, and turn around and give you a 2 yr warranty to boot! Or as some have done, restore older woodies like Oh Joy. Or the USS Constitution or equal. If that boat went away, it would not exist in any way shape or form. What is the "restore" part of the restore are we doing. Sailing does an issue, January?!?!?! or there abouts with 4-6 boats that were bought used, and they show what someone did with up to 30-50% of base cost to make said boat really usable again. The % will depend upon what type of boat, and initial cost. But as Brian? mentioned, plastic boats are relatively easy to restore per say! Wood on the other hand, it might be easier to build a new one, if you are talking an Oh Joy or equal. I know my boat I am into it about 40K with a 20K used cost, with new cushions, varnish inside, head/hull liner, sails, lines, deck gear etc. Then again, not sure I needed to spend 15K on the cushions......but as they say, momma ain't happy, no one's happy! In the mean time, I figure I have another 20 yrs before my boat will be like it was a few yrs back at 20 yrs old! Marty  

Marty I don't think a wooden boat is harder to restore per se. For me or anyone not used to wood construction it is. And I think more skill is certainly required for wood restoration. But there are people with wood boats that find it easy to spile a new plank and don't want to work with glass and what that entails. I do think it is certainly easier to learn to work on a glass boat if you're diligent and handy with tools but have no prior experience. Even engine work isn't hard if you aren't totally inept and can read a manual. Don't force anything to the extent of breaking it and if you're stumped take the part to the expert. At least don't pay the expert his hourly rate to visit the boat and remove bolts that you are able to. Glass and epoxy work is easily learned as well I think. What I was trying to say earlier is at least a neglected old wooden boat will eventually rot away and sink out of sight as they are basically biodegradeable but a neglected ugly mouldy fiberglass boat seems to be an eyesore forever.  

Brian, You are correct in the wood vs glass options. Having built two boat, ie an 8' pram and 12' sloop. like workng in wood, and do do work n construction, granted landscape construction........but none the less. What is entailed in the restore, "IF" doing it yourself, you need to choose a resto that has parts and pieces that the person doing the work can and will do themselves. IF NOT< then the resto will be a waist in most cases. Such as me trying to restore Oh Joy, I'd be taking so many short cuts it would be silly to try and do the work. For what I did to Amoretto, it was all fun and games for me! stuff I could do a weekend here, there and along the way, meanwhile, I was sailing her during the roughly 3 yrs the work took! So to me, while a season is a good thing to look at, not sure that a season is what should limit your resto, "IF" you can do it like I did, in parts and pieces over 3 yrs, then it was freetime relaxing at the boat meanwhile, it got me out of doing yard work! in my own home, as that is my wifes relaxation. for me it is work! wonder why?!?!?!?!?LOLOLOL marty  

I rebuilt (not restored) a wooden sailboat in 1970 and like working with wood - I used to work for a company that built interiors for Columbia 26 & 34 built in Canada by Coopers and worked for a fine furniture company after that. I also used to own a 35' wooden boat and rebuilt a lot of the interior on her. But I think it takes more devotion to do what is being done to Oh Joy. And I think a wooden restoration should be more "classic" somehow. The wooden restorations all seem to be boats with pedigree and that is how it should be. But what most of us are doing is more of a rebuild to make it work (as good or better than new) and look ok as well as some modifications and upgrades. And were they wood with some exceptions I don't think most would be considered "classics". My boat included. I'm not saying we're doing a bad job but the boats aren't all Swans and Hinckleys. Every once in a while you see an Alberg, Triton, or other real classic design that has been truly "restored" like the 200k chevys you see on Barrett-Jackson but those are the exception and not the rule. And that's how it should be as that first ding on a pristine awlgrip paint job hurts a lot. We're rebuilding to use not restoring to show. ps That Hinckley wouldn't have been that beautiful when new in my opinion.  

Re the Hinkley, ALL boats as to what is pretty is overall in the eye of the beholder, but, I do agree, it would probably not be that pretty to me overall either even when new. But then, I thought I would never see an ugly Swan either, and they built very few 38' version of one boat that is currently for sale here in Seattle, I would not pay what they are asking for it nor would I own it if it was 10K US$$! Now a Club Swan 42....oh la la. But some would say that is too ugly too....... But the mors of us are rebuilding to use, not show is correct. Unless you have an older early 1900's classic woodie, ala 6M or some other classic boat with a pedigree to her. Othewise, chainsaw/fireplace time!  

o,man .. with out thinking a Mc greger ,,, What is everyone thinking ? I have my Hans C working its way up here ,,, If I had only known !  

Here's 2 of the prettiest fiberglass boats (in my opinion), the Swede 52 designed by Knud Reimers (first 2 pics) and the Tripp designed Lecomte 33 followed by an older classic I believe was designed by Illingworth & Primrose (Maica class I think). All would be worth restoring (not just a rebuild) as far as I'm concerned.  

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Yes...those are very nice. I'm almost finished with my 1978 CT48.  

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Sail Far Live Free

Tips for sailboat restoration.

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I just bought a 1973 Pearson 30. The Atomic 4 is shot and needs to be removed, I know very little about engines. Any ideas on what I should do would be helpful. I understand that the A4 developed about 30hp and I'm thinking a 16hp diesel would probably suit my needs(I sail on a 43,000 acre lake). Any thoughts?

16 HP sounds about right. The atomic 4 usually has a small propeller and higher RPM than diesels, so check the max diameter prop you can fit with 10-15% of clearance top and bottom. You may want less of a reduction gear. Also consider engine and fuel weight. "The propeller handbook" by Dave Gerr is a good resource. Most older boats have small props that can't make use of higher HP.

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How to restore a classic sailboat

Restoring a classic sailboat can be a fulfilling and rewarding process, allowing you to create a personalized vessel for exploring the open sea with your family.

How to Restore a Classic Sailboat

Restoring a classic sailboat is a labor of love that can bring immense satisfaction and pride to those who embark on this journey. It’s a chance to breathe new life into a vessel that has seen better days, and to create a unique and personalized space for you and your family to enjoy the open sea. In this article, we’ll guide you through the process of restoring a classic sailboat, from finding the right boat to the final touches that make it truly your own.

Table of Contents

Finding the right sailboat, assessing the condition, creating a restoration plan, hull and deck repairs, interior restoration, rigging and sails, electrical and plumbing systems, engine and propulsion, final touches.

The first step in restoring a classic sailboat is finding the right boat. This can be a challenging process, as there are many factors to consider, such as the size, age, and condition of the boat, as well as your budget and personal preferences.

When searching for a sailboat, consider the following:

• Size : Think about how much space you and your family will need, both for living and storage. A larger boat may offer more comfort and amenities, but it will also require more work and expense to restore and maintain.
• Age : Older boats may have more character and history, but they may also require more extensive restoration work. Be prepared to invest more time and money into an older boat.
• Condition : Assess the overall condition of the boat, including the hull, deck, rigging, sails, and interior. A boat in poor condition may be a good candidate for restoration, but it will also require more work and expense.
• Budget : Determine your budget for both the purchase of the boat and the restoration process. Keep in mind that restoration costs can quickly add up, so it’s important to have a realistic understanding of what you can afford.

Once you’ve found a sailboat that meets your criteria, it’s time to assess its condition in more detail. This will help you determine the extent of the restoration work required and whether the project is feasible for your budget and skill level.

Consider hiring a marine surveyor to conduct a thorough inspection of the boat. They can provide valuable insights into the condition of the hull, deck, rigging, sails, and other components, as well as identify any potential safety issues or structural problems.

Take note of any areas that require immediate attention, such as leaks, cracks, or signs of rot. These issues should be addressed before any cosmetic work is done, as they can compromise the integrity of the boat and lead to more serious problems down the line.

With a clear understanding of the boat’s condition, you can now create a restoration plan. This should outline the work that needs to be done, the order in which it should be completed, and an estimated timeline and budget for the project.

Start by prioritizing the most critical repairs, such as fixing leaks or addressing structural issues. Then, move on to less urgent tasks, such as cosmetic improvements and upgrades.

Be realistic about your abilities and the amount of time you can dedicate to the project. Restoring a sailboat can be a time-consuming and labor-intensive process, so it’s important to have a clear understanding of what you’re getting into before you begin.

The hull and deck are the foundation of your sailboat, and any issues with these components should be addressed as soon as possible. Common problems include cracks, blisters, and signs of rot or corrosion.

To repair cracks or holes in the hull or deck, you’ll need to clean the area thoroughly, remove any damaged material, and fill the void with an appropriate filler or epoxy. Once the repair has cured, sand the area smooth and apply a protective coating, such as paint or gelcoat.

For more extensive repairs, such as replacing large sections of the hull or deck, it may be necessary to consult with a professional boatyard or shipwright. They can provide guidance on the best materials and techniques for your specific boat and ensure that the repairs are done correctly.

Restoring the interior of your sailboat can be a rewarding process, as it allows you to create a comfortable and personalized space for you and your family. Start by assessing the condition of the interior, including the cabinetry, upholstery, and flooring.

If the cabinetry is in good condition, you may be able to simply refinish or paint the surfaces to give them a fresh look. If the cabinets are damaged or outdated, consider replacing them with new, custom-built units that meet your needs and preferences.

Upholstery can be cleaned or replaced, depending on its condition and your personal taste. New cushions, curtains, and other soft furnishings can make a big difference in the overall appearance and comfort of the interior.

Flooring options for sailboats include marine-grade carpet, vinyl, or teak. Choose a material that is durable, easy to clean, and complements the overall aesthetic of the boat.

The rigging and sails are essential components of your sailboat, and their condition will have a significant impact on the boat’s performance and safety. Inspect the rigging for signs of wear or damage, such as frayed lines, corroded fittings, or bent or cracked hardware. Replace any components that are in poor condition or no longer meet safety standards.

Sails should be inspected for tears, fraying, or signs of UV damage. Small repairs can often be made with sail tape or by sewing, but larger issues may require professional repair or replacement. Consider upgrading to modern sail materials and designs for improved performance and durability.

The electrical and plumbing systems on a classic sailboat may require updating or replacement to meet modern standards and ensure safety and reliability. Inspect the wiring, switches, and electrical components for signs of wear or damage, and replace any outdated or faulty parts.

Plumbing systems should be checked for leaks, corrosion, or other issues. Replace any damaged hoses, fittings, or fixtures, and consider upgrading to modern materials and designs for improved performance and ease of maintenance.

The engine and propulsion system are critical to the performance and safety of your sailboat. Inspect the engine for signs of wear or damage, and perform any necessary maintenance or repairs. This may include changing the oil and filters, replacing belts or hoses, or overhauling the entire engine.

The propeller and shaft should also be inspected for signs of wear or damage, and any issues should be addressed promptly. Consider upgrading to a modern, efficient propulsion system for improved performance and fuel efficiency.

With the major restoration work complete, it’s time to add the final touches that make your sailboat truly your own. This may include installing new electronics and navigation equipment, adding custom artwork or graphics, or outfitting the boat with personalized accessories and gear.

Take the time to celebrate your hard work and enjoy the fruits of your labor. Your restored classic sailboat is now ready for new adventures and memories with your family.

Restoring a classic sailboat is a challenging but rewarding endeavor that can provide you and your family with a unique and personalized vessel for exploring the open sea. By carefully assessing the condition of the boat, creating a detailed restoration plan, and tackling the project one step at a time, you can breathe new life into a once-neglected boat and create a lasting legacy for future generations.

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Boat Restoration Tips, Tricks, and Costs

August 29, 2021 by Martin Parker 6 Comments

Are you considering boat restoration as a cheap way to get on the water? While restoring a tired boat can save you money if you do most of the work yourself, there is a lot to consider and plan for if the costs are not to get out of hand.

Restoring a boat is a labor of love and something you are not likely to take on unless the boat concerned has some special meaning for you or you’re trying to save money. It is vital to understand that boats do not generally appreciate value unless they have some historical significance. Unlike car restoration, where collectors will pay big money for classic cars, the same is not true in the yachting world. 

Don’t let that put you off, though. Bringing a boat back to pristine condition is hugely satisfying and something to be proud of.

Step-By-Step Process of Boat Restoration

Do You Need a Survey Before Commiting to Boat Restoration? 

If you’ve recently purchased a boat, then you should have had a survey carried out already. If this is a boat you’ve owned for a while and intend to restore it, then a survey could be a good idea before you start. There are different types of surveys available, but the most common is the condition and value survey. The surveyor assesses the boat’s overall condition, reports any problems, and gives a market valuation. 

You may need specialized surveys for the engine and other systems, and you can find accredited surveyors on the NAMSGLobal website or the Society of Accredited Marine Surveyors .

Clean the Boat Thoroughly 

While it may seem an odd suggestion, thoroughly cleaning the boat has a practical purpose. While cleaning your boat, you can spot any problems you may have missed previously. Cleaning also gives you a base standard to start from and will save you time in the long run. Unblock all the drainage holes, thoroughly clean the bilge, and lift any hull access points to clean and inspect.

List Broken Items 

Making a list of parts that need replacing or repairing is vital. Some areas of the boat will only be accessible during the restoration. Suddenly remembering a component that you needed to replace when the restoration is complete is not great! Completing this step enables you to plan the boat restoration in a logical order.

Check Any Through-Hull Fittings 

Any fitting that penetrates the hull can potentially flood the boat, so these must be checked and repaired. All through-hull fittings use specialized sealants where they mate with the hull. Don’t skimp in this area, as you will regret it when the first leak appears.

Check the Seacocks Are Working

Seacocks have two purposes. Some are there to let water in, for engine cooling, for example, while others let water out, such as cockpit drains. In either case, it’s vital to ensure they are working correctly. The seacocks for cockpit drains and sinks etc., are usually closed at sea as the rolling movement of the boat can let water enter the hull. A seacock seized open has caused many boats to flood and sink.

Check the Condition of the Hull 

What you are looking for will depend on the materials used to make the hull. A thorough inspection inside and out is required.

Fiberglass Hulls have a gel coat to protect the surface, but water may have penetrated the core if cracked and damaged. You can repair small areas of damage yourself, but extensive damage will need a professional eye. Pay particular attention to any fittings, such as cleats, stanchions, and chainplates, as cracking often occurs here. On older boats, the gel coat may have faded and stained. As long as the surface is good, you can restore it using a jetwash and readily available materials.

Wooden Hulls can suffer from rotten or dried-out wood if the protective coating is damaged. Repairing wooden hulls is a specialist skill that you shouldn’t attempt unless you are very confident. If the woodwork is sound, then resealing is a simple but time-consuming task.

The surveyor’s report should have highlighted all the damaged areas that he can see, but it depends on the type of survey you commissioned.

Check Load-Bearing Fixtures 

Load-bearing fixtures such as cleats and chainplates put immense stress on the deck. Behind every load-bearing fixture, there should be a backing plate to spread the load and prevent damage. Make sure the backing plates are in place and in good condition.

Inspect Every Halyard, Sheet, or Control Line

The materials used in making halyards and sheets are very resistant to the damage caused by saltwater and the sun. But over time, they do weaken. Inspect all the lines carefully for any wear or fraying, and replace where necessary. Any lines in good condition can be washed in a very light non-bio detergent but ensure you rinse with plenty of fresh water.

Inspect Your Sails 

Your sails work in a hostile environment, constantly exposed to UV light, saltwater, and extreme tension in heavy winds. Checking your sails during a restoration is a vital step to getting back on the water.

Check the following areas particularly:

Stitching: The sails stitching is the most common area affected by ultraviolet light from the sun. If you find anything, you should send the sail to a professional for repair.

Cringles: A cringle is stitched in to feed a sheet or line through at each attachment point. Check for damage to the metal or fraying of the stitching. Anything you spot here will most likely need professional attention from a sailmaker.

Sail Surface: Look out for fraying stitching, tears, and holes. Small holes can be repaired using repair tape or by sewing.

Sail Edges: Again, look out for fraying or loose stitching, but also signs of stretching.

Mold: Although mold won’t damage a sail, it looks unsightly, but luckily it is relatively easy to remove. Any sails that pass inspection should be thoroughly washed, dried, folded, and stored in a cool, dry location. Do not be tempted to put your sails away wet, as this encourages mold.

Engine: You can commission a separate survey for the engine, but if you have just lifted the boat out of the water to restore it, then a good service is probably the only thing required. For any boat that has been unused for a long time, it may be more economical to lift the engine out for a complete overhaul. Each situation will be different, and getting several quotes is a good idea.

If you decide to leave the engine in place, then at the very least do the following:

– Drain fuel tank

– Change engine oil

– Change gearbox oil

– Replace oil and air filters

Estimate the Cost of Boat Restoration

You’ve completed a complete survey of your boat, and it’s time to start the task of estimating the cost of the repairs. This is a critical stage and not one to rush. Finding the cost of replacement parts is relatively easy, so long as they are available. Older boats will be out of production, and the boatyard that built it may no longer be in business. A degree of improvisation and adapting similar parts may be required, which takes longer and costs more.

Many jobs may be labor-intensive, such as stripping back the Gelcoat or sanding down wooden decks. If you can do these jobs yourself, you’ll save a lot of dollars, but don’t exclude the cost of your time in the restoration cost. If you need to use skilled trades, then ask for quotes.

Once you’ve built a complete estimate of the cost of restoration, only you can decide if it’s feasible or not. If you hope to profit by selling the restored boat, this is a simple financial decision. A boat with some historical or sentimental value can make a choice more difficult.

Planning For Boat Restoration

Now you have a good idea of the costs involved, and you’ve decided to go ahead and embark on your boat restoration project. Congratulations! It’s probably going to be a long but worthwhile road ahead.

Take some time now to plan out the restoration in stages. You should complete some jobs before others, such as replacing damaged structural parts before relaying the deck. It’s also worth setting yourself some realistic deadlines to complete the stages. Not only is it something to aim for, but there is a sense of satisfaction as you complete stages. It sounds obvious, but it is easy to miss or forget something along the way if it’s not written down.

Boat Restoration Costs

Some people will say pick a number out of the air and then double it, and you’ll still be well under the final cost! There are so many factors to consider. If you are restoring a small boat, say 25 feet LOA, a conservative estimate might be $15,000 to $20,000. But as you discover more problems along the way, the final bill could be much higher. As the size of the boat increases, the cost increases exponentially.

The final cost will depend on how much needs doing and the quality of the work. We cannot emphasize enough the importance of a good inspection, cost estimate, and a well-thought-out plan.

As an example, you may buy a tired-looking 30-foot boat for $30,000. Add on around $25,000 for the restoration work carried out by skilled trades, plus $15,000 for your own time—a total cost of approximately $70,000. Compared to the price of a new 30-foot yacht of around $120,000, that’s quite a saving. On the flip side, the resale value of the restored boat may only be around $45,000. Having spent so much time, money, and effort on the restoration, you’re unlikely to sell any time soon.

Boat Restoration Tools  

Apart from some specialist tools for specific jobs, you will need a good set of basic hand and power tools. When you are buying tools, it is better to buy quality rather than quantity. The cheap grocery store tool kit with 100 items for 20 bucks will not stand the test of time.

The best advice I ever got was to buy the quality tool you need when you need it, rather than trying to build a complete tool kit from the beginning with cheap items.

Boat Restoration Materials

The list below gives you an idea of the materials you may need to buy based on a 30-foot yacht. There will be more. Make sure you add these items to your estimate of costs.

Rigging: An older boat that needs restoring will most likely need some of the rigging replaced. If you don’t like heights, this is a job for professionals. Expect a cost of around $1000 to $1500.

Metalwork: Replacing broken cleats, chainplates, etc. Replacing the chainplates could cost a few hundred dollars if you do the work yourself or several thousand if you employ skilled trades.

Sails: Replacing any damaged sails and repairing where possible. For a new jib and mainsail, expect somewhere between $2,500 and $4,000

Halyards, Sheets, and Control Lines: Replace any that are past their useable life. Prices for rope can range between $2 to $10 per meter, depending on thickness and quality.

Engine: Replacing oils, fuel, and filters and renewing coolant hoses, fuel lines, and pump belts.

Batteries: Any yacht that has stood for a long time will probably need new batteries, but get them tested first.

Gelcoat Repair Kits and Polishing Tools, or Varnish for Wooden Hulls: Gelcoat can be bought in bulk if needed. Around $30 for a 1kg tin.

Winches and Blocks: After cleaning them with fresh water, check for smooth operation and service them. If you need to buy new winches, budget for at least $500 upwards for a self-tailing version.

Expert Help

Specialized expert help in the boating world is expensive. The more you can do yourself, the better, but include your labor cost in the final estimate. Qualified tradespeople may cost you more, but they will complete the job in a shorter time, getting you out of the yard and on to the water sooner. Experienced, skilled tradespeople can charge around $100 an hour for their services.

Boatyard Fees

Many people overlook the cost of storing your boat in the yard while the work is in progress. If you only work on your boat at weekends, it could be several years in the yard before you finish the restoration.

Continuing Costs

Owning a boat has continuing costs if you plan to maintain your restored yacht to the standard you’ve made it. We wrote an article covering the cost of boat ownership to help you know what to expect as a first-time boat owner.

Boat Restoration Tips and Tricks

When to Replace or Repair Yacht Components

A yacht operates in corrosive conditions of saltwater and sun, and particular items need regular checks and repairs. We’ve compiled a table below for the average lifespans of components, but many variables affect these estimates.

Component Expected Life Before Repair or Replacement

– Standing Rigging 10 years

– Sails 4,000 hours

– Halyards and Lines 5 to 10 years

– Engine (Diesel) 5,000 hours

– Mast Inspect and repair every five to six years depending on use

– Batteries 4 to 5 years

– Gelcoat 5 years

– Wooden deck stain Yearly

Do You Have the Skills for Boat Restoration?

Be very honest with yourself about your skills. Some jobs should be left to the professionals unless you are very confident. Electrics and the engine, for example, both require specialist skills.

Gelcoat Repairs

An older fiberglass boat will very likely have some Gelcoat damage, so how do you repair this? We have chosen three videos showing the standard method for gelcoat repairs.

The first Gelcoat repair video is from someone attempting it for the first time. Watching this video should help you to avoid some common mistakes. The repairer uses a patch paste kit that is available from most boatyards.

In this next video, we follow another Gelcoat repair, but this time mixing the Gelcoat by hand and repairing small cracks instead of a hole. 

The last video on Gelcoat repairs focuses on spider cracks that are so common in fiberglass boats. 

Buffing and Polishing the Hull of a Fiberglass Boat

You’ve repaired the Gelcoat and now need to bring back the lustrous shine that your boat had when it was new. Here are a couple of videos showing you how to buff and polish Gelcoat.

This method uses only polishing creams and buffing tools to restore the Gelcoat finish . An alternative approach is to start with 2000 grit sandpaper before using the buffing tools and rubbing compound to polish the Gelcoat . 

Finally, this time-lapse video shows a complete boat restoration from start to finish , completed in an incredible six weeks.

Do you Need Certifications for Any of the Work?

There are no requirements to have your electrical or mechanical work certified for privately-owned pleasure boats that don’t take paying customers. However, your insurer may insist that a qualified person approves any work you have completed. We would suggest that it’s in your interest to have the work checked before you first launch your restored boat.

If you intend to use your boat commercially, then a whole set of regulations will apply.

Sell Your Boat or Restore It?

As we previously mentioned, restoring a boat is not going to make you a profit. But you’ll finish up with a boat that was cheaper than buying brand new. The decision between selling the boat and restoring it will depend on numerous factors.

– Does the boat have any sentimental value to you?

– Do you have the time and money to complete the restoration?

– Will you lose interest partway through the restoration? Be honest with yourself!

Only by answering those questions can you decide whether to sell or restore your boat.

Avoid Expensive Brand Name Products

Boatyards will happily sell you branded products, but it is possible to use cheaper alternatives in some cases.

– Regularly wash your boat with fresh water to reduce the need for chemical products

– Use household products instead of chemicals where possible

– Use chemicals sparingly

– Vinegar is good for removing stains on cloth materials

General Cleaner: Use one cup of white vinegar in a gallon of water to scrub decks and surfaces, then rinse with fresh water.

Stain Remover: Mix baking soda and water to form a paste. Use it to remove fiberglass stains, then rinse.

Mildew Remover: A 1:1 mix of lemon juice and salt will remove mildew stains on cloth and canvas.

Need more information on a specific boat restoration project or task?  Reach out to the #BoatLife community  with a question or comment on our community forum!

If you found this article helpful, please leave a comment below, share it on social media, and subscribe to our email list.

For direct questions and comments, shoot me an email at [email protected]

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Reader Interactions

September 24, 2021 at 9:11 pm

I found it helpful when you said that you would need to replace your boat’s chainplates for a few hundred dollars when restoring a boat. This is something that I will share with my father so he could be financially prepared in restoring his boat. He said yesterday morning that he is planning to shop for used boat parts that would meet his budget. Thanks for sharing this.

September 27, 2021 at 4:26 pm

Hi Shammy, thanks for reading!

We’re happy that this guide could be of some help to you and your father. Buying used parts is a great way to cut down on the financial burden of restoring a boat, and we’re huge fans of budget-minded boating over here at #Boatlife.

We wrote an article that would be of some big help when considering used boat parts. Here’s the link: https://www.hashtagboatlife.com/buy-boat-for-sale/

The article covers everything you need to know about buying used, what to look for in a boat and its parts, how to source things, and much more. Take a look and let us know if anything is missing or if you have any additional questions! We are always happy to help out where we can.

December 11, 2021 at 12:00 pm

I am a marine artisan and restore boats on a daily basis. I enjoyed this article, it provides a fair representation of the “hidden” or seldom thought of expenses. For example storage fee’s. Sometimes people have a niave, over simple impression of how much work and time is involved. The author did an excellent job touching on so many issues.

December 24, 2021 at 12:36 pm

Quality content is important to interest the viewers to visit the website, that’s what this site is providing.

August 8, 2022 at 8:56 pm

I appreciate all of the tips you provided for properly restoring a boat. I agree that it is smart to clean a boat thoroughly to help you spot problems you had not noticed before. It would also be smart to invest in quality marine paint so you can restore the appearance of your boat as well.

July 14, 2023 at 6:26 am

thank you so much for this cool post.

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Question about Pavlovsky Posad wool shawls - Moscow Forum

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Question about Pavlovsky Posad wool shawls

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I unfortunately do not have the time to take a trip to Pavlovsky Posad.

Where exactly are you staying?

Thank you for your answer!

I am staying near Pavelskaya.

It's difficult reading your link in Russian.

Platki is an official distributor of PP shawls so you are getting the real deal there.

PS: open the page in google chrome it will auto translate

If you mean PavelETSkaya then try Kozhevnicheskaya 7s1, 2nd floor.

Copy and paste that into Google Maps to see where it is and build the walking route from your hotel. Use Google Maps Street View to see how the mall looks so that you don't miss it.

Yes that's what I meant! Thank you again!

Got great scarves today! Such a lovely selection!

This topic has been closed to new posts due to inactivity.

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UK’s steepest lock flight marks 250th birthday amid canal funding fears

Events to be held this weekend celebrating Bingley Five Rise locks, which opened in 1774 and is still in use

For people who like their thrills gentle, safe and at never more than three miles an hour, Bingley Five Rise locks is quite a rollercoaster ride.

The canal lock flight in West Yorkshire , the steepest in the UK and a true wonder of the nation’s waterways, will this weekend celebrate its 250th birthday.

When it opened in 1774, about 30,000 people gathered awestruck to watch the first boats make the 60ft descent through the five linked locks.

There will be events marking the anniversary on Saturday, and genuine pride that such an incredible feat of engineering is still in use today.

“We are so proud of it,” said Sean McGinley, a regional director of the Canal & River Trust . “It should be in a museum really. It is sort of mad but it’s wonderful. The fact that boats still go through it after 250 years, in pretty much the same way they always did, is outstanding.”

Behind that pride and joy are concerns that canals in England and Wales could be in peril. The trust was told last July that it would get less money from the government, a cut it equates to 40% .

It felt like “a kick in the shins,” said McGinley. There was a real chance Britain’s canal system could in future years see Beeching-style cuts, he said

“We have got to get this into the minds of the public because once a canal is gone, it’s gone … it’s gone for ever. We have to treasure them and look after them because if we lost things like Bingley Five Rise it would be horrendous for the nation.”

Britain’s canal system relies on the work of countless volunteers and McGinley that could only go so far. “If there’s not enough money coming in, it doesn’t matter how many volunteers we have. We will be closing locks, we will be closing canals, because we can’t afford to keep them open.”

It is not just boat users who enjoy the 2,000 miles of canals and rivers in the trust’s network, there are also about 10 million people a fortnight enjoying walks, jogs and bike rides along the towpaths.

“If people just gave us 10p each, there wouldn’t be a problem at all,” McGinley said.

The locks at Bingley are considered one of the greatest feats of canal engineering of their day and are Grade I-listed , the same as York Minster and Buckingham Palace. They sit on the Leeds to Liverpool canal, once one of England’s most important transport routes.

Ruth Garratt, a heritage adviser to the trust, said the locks were hung on the side of a hill to avoid other more expensive options. “They were keeping a very close eye on construction costs, to the penny. This was the most economical way of getting up and over what is an incredibly steep incline,” she said.

The penny pinchers were 18th-century Bradford wool merchants, and the man responsible for the locks was Halifax-born John Longbotham.

Garratt would love for him to be better known. Longbotham dedicated his life to the Leeds-Liverpool canal, she said, but when economic factors halted canal building in the late 1770s he lost his income and plummeted into poverty. He died penniless.

“It is such a sad story but it is also the story of the boom and bust of the Enlightenment era,” said Garratt, one with parallels today. “There was a cost of living crisis, wars abroad … there were winners and losers.”

• North of England

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