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Tayana 37 is a 41 ′ 11 ″ / 12.8 m monohull sailboat designed by Robert Perry and built by Ta Yang Yacht Building Co. Ltd. starting in 1976.

Drawing of Tayana 37

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

  • SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
  • D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

  • D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
  • LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

  • D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
  • LOA: Length overall in feet
  • Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

From BlueWaterBoats.org :

The Tayana 37 is perhaps the most successful semi-custom cruising yacht to be built. It was designed by Bob Perry and introduced in 1975 as a response to the Westsail 32 which were selling in enormous numbers. Today looking back, with the boat still in production with a boat count of 588, most still sailing, and an active and owners community, it’s very apparent that Perry has succeeded.

One could say the yacht was designed to ignite imaginations of tropical sunsets in exotic locations; think oodles of teak and a beautiful custom interior, wrapped into traditional double-ender hull with a full keel. Beneath the alluring romance, you’ll find a boat that is solidly built, and indeed many Tayana 37s can be found on the blue water cruising circuit around the world.

When in June of 1973 Time Magazine featured a four page spread on the “cruising life” with a photo of the Westsail 32 it was clear that this diminutive boat had caught the imagination of a generation. They sold like hotcakes and the cruising life came out of the fringes and into the mainstream. Meanwhile, fresh from the success of his groundbreaking Valiant 40 and having more recently designed the CT 54 Perry was approached by Bob Berg, former owner of Flying Dutchman Yachts in Seattle, to design a boat to capitalize on the success of the Westsail. It is said that the success of the Westsail was not that it was the right boat at the right time, it was also the right style; it was exactly what Americans thought a cruising boat should look like. This may explain the Tayana’s copious amounts of teak, her traditional full keel, and double ender style.

The boatyard that was originally selected to build the boat was Ta Chaio Brothers of Taiwan, builders of CT yachts. Interestingly, they declined thinking the boat would not be a commercial success. Thus the contract to build the boat was passed to Ta Yang, another high quality Taiwanese boatbuilding concern.

The boat, which was first known as the “CT 37”, was introduced in 1975 and offered as a semi-custom boat, with all manner of internal options and layouts. The rig was offered with options of cutter or ketch, however cutters were the fashion of the day and only 20 boats were built as ketches. In 1979 the CT 37 name was discontinued, instead boat inherited an offshoot of the Ta Yang name, changing to the Tayana 37.

The Tayana 37 continues to be in production today in very low numbers, they have declined in sales as buyer tastes have favored boats with more expansive interiors, stern entry, and avoidance of higher maintenance teak on the exterior. However the Tayana 37 remains popular in the used boat market, at the time of writing the Tayana Owners Association reports the latest hull number is 588 or 589.

Boat Configuration

The Tayana 37 is a classic full keel double-ender which when we look back today marks the start of modern design philosophy for full keel boats. Perry took a very traditional Atkins 1930s inspired design and worked his “boatspeed” magic firstly by cutting away forefoot of the keel, a common technique to reduce wetted area with gains in maneuverability. He then connected the keel to the bilge of the hull as a distinctly separate surface without the traditional wine-glass blend, which tends to help with close-windedness and form stability. Other deviations to the Archer theme included his own flavor of a canoe stern which had worked well in his radical at the time Valiant 40 design as well as opting for a modern inboard rudder over the traditional aft hanging rudder that Archer used.

Most boats are configured with cutter rigs carrying a lot of sail area with the help of a bowsprit. Those with a keen eye may notice the mast position quite far aft from the usual position on most yachts and this has been the cause for some windward helm issues which in the early days was corrected by raking the mast forward. It’s rare to find a Tayana 37 sporting the optional ketch rig which Perry notes is a pity as he thought the ketch examples were particularly fast and well balanced.

On deck, you will find lots of teak, some owners have removed the teak in order to reduce maintenance. The side decks are wide. There are two deck versions, the first being designed by Perry, which was later revised by Ta Yang which according to Perry is far nicer, more aesthetic, with a better cockpit. Most boats have the original Perry designed cockpit. Both versions sport small volume cockpits well suited to mitigating the risk of the cockpit flooding from large following seas. The cockpit has been described as safe secure with high coamings. Visibility forward from the helm is usually impeded by on most boats by butterfly hatches, boom gallows, and mid boom sheeting.

Going below deck you will find a high quality interior reflecting some of the best boatbuilding craftsmanship to come out of Taiwan. The interiors are all semi-custom and it’s unlikely to find two boats identical. While some interiors were well suited to blue water sailing others were not so functional. Blue Water Sailing Magazine writes, “We have seen some interiors that were simply inappropriate for a seagoing boat. Truth is many people who ordered new Tayanas did not have the knowledge to make the choices that were required of them, and either made bad choices or tried to fit too much into a hull already restricted by its design”.

Of note is the location of the fuel tank. In the original design, Perry located the 90 gallon tank below the saloon settee, but Ta Yang relocated them forward to in the fore peak, with the idea of creating more stowage space in the saloon. A full tank weighing 700 pounds so far forward has resulted in trim problems and hobby-horsing. It’s reported a some owners have relocated their fuel tank back to the original spot that Perry intended.

Construction

The Tayana 37 hull is built from solid GRP, generous amounts of glass is used, the hull is 3/8″ thick at its sheer. Perry has been quoted as saying there has never been any consistent structural problems with the boat. The deck is balsa cored to save on topside weight. The ballast is cast iron and internal to the keel cavity and glassed over. The hull-deck join is built into a strong hollow box section, which forms a high standing bulwark.

Sailing Charateristics

One would not expect the Tayana 37 to progress with much vigor from a fleeting glance, however the Bob Perry makeover of the traditional Atkins configuration gives the boat a new lease of life. The boat performs faster than similar boats of this period, especially in a fresh breeze.

The Tayana is relatively tender initially. The first reef is usually thrown in at about 18 knots, in 20-25 knots it’s usually a staysail and the single reefed main. The boat tracks well to windward, but its forte is off the wind, particularly in a broad reach; ideal for the trades.

The cockpit is dry, Tayana 37 owner Rolland Hartstrom writes of a passage between from San Francisco to San Pedro in Mar 2009, “I surfed down 20 footers in this boat doing 14 knots, and they were breaking about 3 feet of white water on top; never took a drop of water in the cockpit”.

Probably the most common bugbear of the Tayana 37 under sail is its often cited weather helm in boats configured with cutter rigs. Many of these problems have been corrected through the years by their owners, some by raking the mast forward. Harvey Karten from the Tayana Owners Association notes, “When properly rigged with a good adjustable traveler and well made sails, rather than their original factory configuration, the much reported weather helm is no longer a problem.”

Buyers Notes

There is an enthusiastic and active owners association with a wealth of information and tips to share, well worth contacting prior to purchase. Particular areas for inspection are listed below:

  • Teak decks have proved high maintenance, many boats have had their teak removed which is considered an advantage.
  • Look for delamination around through deck fitting, the balsa cored deck is susceptible to abuse.
  • Water tanks are made of black iron and are prone to rusting over time, check for leaks.
  • Some boats have fuel tanks relocated back into their proper amidships intended location, its a recommended modification.
  • Glaring inconsistencies between boats have been noted
  • Boats before 1981 should have their wiring and standing rigging inspected closely.
  • Early boats had spreaders made from spruce which can be susceptible to dry rot, alloy spreaders on later boats are an advantage.
  • There have been reports of leaking from the scuppers and hawsepipes, this problem has been solved in later models by glassing the bulwark from the insides.

As of 2010 asking prices range from $55k-$115k USD.

Links, References and Further Reading

» Tayana Owners Association, information, discussion group and links . » Tayana Owners Association Google Group, discussions on Tayana boats » Tayana UK Corporate website, Tayana 37 brochure and pictures . » Good Old Boat Magazine, Mar 2005, Tayana 37 review by Karen Larsen. Boat comparison by Ted Brewer. » Blue Water Sailing Magazine, Jun 1997, Tayana 37 review. » Used Boat Notebook: From the pages of Sailing Magazine (p118-121), review of the Tayana 37.

Thanks goes to Harvey J. Karten and the Tayana Owners Association for their assistance on this review.

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tayana 37 sailboat review

TAYANA 37: Ubiquitous Bluewater Sailboat

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The Tayana 37 is the most successful of the many Taiwan-built double-ended full-keel cruisers that were conceived in the mid-1970s in the wake of the great success of the Westsail 32. Designed by Bob Perry and originally marketed as the CT 37 when first introduced in 1976, over 600 Tayana 37s have since been built. Technically it is not still in production, but Tayana , a.k.a. the Ta Yang Yacht Building Co., has all relevant molds and tooling and still fills orders for new boats on a spot basis.

This boat is quite heavy by today’s standards, but it sails remarkably well and can serve effectively as both a coastal and bluewater cruiser. It has a particularly strong reputation as an offshore boat and is certainly one of the more popular bluewater cruisers ever built. Reportedly at any given time there are more Tayana 37s out there wandering the globe than any other single type of sailboat.

In designing the Tayana 37 Perry sought to retain the color and character of strictly traditional full-keel double-enders like the Westsail while injecting as much performance into the formula as possible. The forefoot of the full keel is cut away, the rudder has a more modern, efficient profile, and the hull’s cross-section is not a classic wineglass shape in which hull and keel are a unitary form. Instead the hull is very round and the keel presents as a distinct and separate foil-like appendage.

The rig, meanwhile, is large and quite tall for a boat of this type. The original sail plan called for a cutter rig with a very raked mast, but in practice this resulted in a heavy helm. Perry therefore preferred the optional ketch rig, which is much more balanced, but overall this rig is smaller and few in fact were ever built. As it turned out, the cutter rig balances just fine if the mast rake is eliminated, and cutter-rigged Tayana 37s have proven to be both relatively fast and weatherly. One good friend of mine who made both single- and doublehanded transatlantic passages in his cutter-rigged Tayana 37 during the 1990s claims to have sailed as many as 186 miles in a day. Though the boat carries its fair share of ballast, it is a bit tender intially, thanks both to its tall rig and heavy teak-laden topsides and deck. Its motion, however, is very smooth and comfortable in a seaway.

Ta Yang is one of the better Taiwanese builders and the Tayana 37’s construction quality on the whole is quite good. It is true, however, that Ta Yang had a bit to learn as it went along and that later boats are better built than earlier ones. The hull is solid hand-laid glass stiffened with strong bulkheads and stout floors, the deck is balsa-cored, and the iron ballast, glassed into the hollow keel section, is wholly internal. All deck hardware is through-bolted and supported by robust stainless-steel backing plates.

Flaws on earlier boats built prior to 1981 include inferior electrical wiring and the use of inferior-grade stainless-steel alloys in some hardware and fittings. Also, deck joints on early boats are prone to leaking, as the joint forms a hollow raised bulwark that is pierced by several hawsepipes and scuppers that may or may not be well bedded in sealant. On later boats the bulwark’s interior cavity is glassed over from the inside, hence is more watertight. Some early boats may also have wooden spruce spars, which are overly heavy and prone to rot over time, and sloppy worm-gear steering systems that were later replaced with more sensitive pedestal/cable systems.

Almost all Tayana 37s were built with teak decks. These look very nice, but are fastened in place with screws and are therefore a likely source of leaks later in a boat’s life. Another common problem is the rudder heel, which is bronze fastened to the hull with stainless-steel bolts and is thus prone to galvanic corrosion. Prospective buyers should also be a bit wary of the laminated wood bowsprit, which tends to rot underneath over the years if not scrupulously maintained. Look for varnished sprits with no signs of moisture damage; a painted sprit is often a sign of trouble.

For a production builder Ta Yang has always offered a suprising number of options. Besides being sold as a cutter or ketch, with either wood or aluminum spars, the masts on Tayana 37s may also be either keel- or deck-stepped. The boat is also available in a pilothouse version. Tank locations are likewise somewhat variable. The original design called for fuel tanks under the settees in the main saloon, but Ta Yang instead installed one large tank under the V-berth up in the forward stateroom so as to create more storage space in the saloon, and this only hobbled the boat’s performance. Later a midships keel tank was offered as an option, and this proved far superior. In most cases fuel tanks were built of black iron, hence will eventually corrode, but the tanks in fact are relatively easy to access (this includes the midships keel tank) so this is not nearly as troublesome as it might be.

One of the most variable aspects of the Tayana 37 is its accomodation plan. Ta Yang effectively customizes interiors at no extra charge and owners ordering new boats have always taken full advantage of this. The standard lay-out is fairly straightforward, with a large V-berth forward, a simple open quarterberth aft, and a conventional saloon betwixt the two. The earliest standard lay-out featured a pilotberth in the saloon. In reality many boats have offset Pullman doubles forward, a few have separate aft-quarter staterooms, and custom-built storage/seating arrangements are very common. Most boats have separate shower stalls alongside the head, which is a grand luxury in any yacht this size. The interior is finished in solid teak, and the quality of the joinery work is superb, just as good as on any high-end European boat.

One of the best things about the Tayana 37 is that it is exceedingly affordable. Older boats in need of work can be had for under $50,000, while younger boats in very good condition that are crammed to the gills with all kinds of offshore equipment and systems upgrades can often be had for less than $100,000. Usually there are many boats on the brokerage market at any given time, which makes it easy for buyers to press for bargains and hard for sellers to recover money spent on extra gear and upgrades.

Specifications

LOA:  36’8” LWL:  31’0” Beam:  11’6” Draft:  5’8” Ballast:  7,340 lbs. Displacement:  24,000 lbs. Sail area –Cutter rig:  861 sq.ft. –Ketch rig:  768 sq.ft. Fuel:  100 gal. Water:  90-100 gal. D/L ratio:  359 SA/D ratio –Cutter rig:  16.52 –Ketch rig:  14.74 Comfort ratio:  43 Capsize screening:  1.59 Nominal hull speed:  7.5 knots

Typical asking prices:  $40-120K Base price new:  $239.5K

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The Tayana 37 Sailboat Specs & Key Performance Indicators

The Tayana 37, a long-keeled cutter, was designed by Bob Perry and built in Taiwan by Ta Yang Yacht Building.

A Tayana 37 sailboat on a mooring ball in Prickly Bay, Grenada, West Indies.

Published Specification for the Tayana 37

Underwater Profile:  Long Keel

Hull Material:  GRP

Length Overall:  36'8" / 11.2m

Waterline Length:  31'0" /9.5m

Beam:  11'6" / 3.5m

Draft:  5'8" / 1.7m

Rig Type:  Cutter

Displacement:  22,500lb / 10,206kg

Designer:  Bob Perry

Builder:  Ta Yang Yacht Building (Taiwan)

Year First Built:  1976

Number Built:  558

Owners Association:  Tayana Owners Group

Published Design Ratios for the Tayana 37

1. Sail Area/Displacement Ratio:  17.4

2. Ballast/Displacement Ratio:  35.6

3. Displacement/Length Ratio:  337

4. Comfort Ratio:  41.1

5. Capsize Screening Formula:   1.6

read more about these all-revealing numbers...

Summary Analysis of the Design Ratios for the Tayana 37

eBook: How to Avoid Buying the Wrong Sailboat

1. A Sail Area/Displacement Ratio of 17.4 suggests that the Tayana 37 will, in the right conditions, approach her maximum hull speed readily and satisfy the sailing performance expectations of most cruising sailors.

2. A Ballast/Displacement Ratio of 35.6 means that unless the bulk of the ballast is concentrated in a bulb at the foot of her keel, the Tayana 37 will have a tendency to heel excessively in a gust, and she'll need to be reefed early to keep her sailing upright in a moderate breeze. 

3. A Displacement/Length Ratio of 337, tells us the Tayana 37 is clearly a heavy displacement cruising boat. You can load her down with all your cruising gear and equipment and it will hardly affect her waterline. Not an ideal choice for coastal sailing, but she'll come into her own on an offshore passage in testing conditions.

4. Ted Brewer's Comfort Ratio of 41.1 suggests that crew comfort of a Tayana 37 in a seaway is similar to what you would associate with the motion of a heavy bluewater cruising boat. Pitching and rolling will be well damped - your cup of coffee on the salon table stands a reasonable chance of staying there in most conditions.

5. The Capsize Screening Formula (CSF) of 1.6 tells us that a Tayana 37 would be a considerably safer choice of sailboat for an ocean passage than one with a CSF of more than 2.0. 

The Tayana 37 below decks...

Tayana 37 Accommodation Layout

The interior could be customized to suit the owner's preferences, but a typical configuration has sleeping accommodation for six people, with a V-berth in the forecabin, a U-shaped settee with a drop-down dinette table and a straight settee opposite, and a quarter berth on the starboard side extending under the cockpit. The head was located on the port side between the forecabin and the main cabin. The galley was U-shaped and located at the foot of the companionway steps on the port side. The navigation station was located opposite the galley, on the starboard side.

Cruisers' Questions about this Sailboat...

How many versions of the Tayana 37 were produced and how do they differ?

There were two main versions of the Tayana 37: the cutter-rigged sloop and the ketch rig. The cutter rig was more popular and had a sail area of 846ft 2 (78.6m 2 ), while the ketch rig had a sail area of 1,000ft 2 (92.9m 2 ). There was also a pilothouse version for those that prefer more protection from the elements.

How does the Tayana 37 perform under sail?

The Tayana 37 is known for its excellent performance under sail, especially in heavy weather and long passages. It is stable, balanced, and responsive, with good windward ability and speed potential. In light winds however, its heavy displacement and large wetted are work against it.

How much does a Tayana 37 cost?

The price of a new Tayana 37 depends on the options and customizations chosen by the owner, but it is estimated to be around $250,000 USD as of 2020. The price of a used Tayana 37 varies depending on the year, condition, and equipment of the boat, but it can range from $40,000 to $100,000 USD or more.

What is the history of Ta Yang Yacht Building?

Ta Yang Yacht Building is a Taiwanese company that specializes in building semi-custom sailing vessels ranging in size from 32 to 72 feet. The company was founded in 1973 in Kaohsiung, Taiwan, by C.T. Chen, who also co-founded Ta Chiao Yacht Building. The company's name means "big ocean" in Mandarin, and its brand name Tayana means "belongs to big ocean" .

The company's first model was the Sea Wolf 41, also known as the Yankee Clipper, followed by the Tanton cat ketch. In 1979 the company introduced the Tayana 37.

The company has since produced many other models, such as the Tayana Vancouver 42, the Tayana 48, the Tayana 55, and the Tayana 72. The company also offers deck saloon and pilothouse versions of some of its yachts. The company's yachts are known for their quality, performance, and seaworthiness. As of 2012, the company had built over 1,400 yachts.

Unfortunately, Ta Yang Yacht Building has been closed of business since September 2020.

Who is Robert Perry and what other boats has he designed?

Robert Perry is a U.S. yacht designer based in Seattle, Washington. He is one of the most influential and prolific designers of modern cruising yachts, with over 200 designs to his credit.

He started his career in 1970, working for Jay Benford and then Dick Carter. His first design was the CT 54, a clipper-bowed ketch built by Ta Yang Yacht Building in Taiwan. His breakthrough design was the Valiant 40, a performance cruiser that introduced the concept of a fin keel and skeg hung rudder on a double-ended hull.

Perry has designed boats for many well-known brands, such as Tayana, Cheoy Lee, Valiant, Baba, Ta Shing, Islander, Passport and Saga. He has also designed many custom yachts for individual clients, ranging from 24 to 97 feet in length. Some of his most famous and iconic designs include the Tayana 37, the Tayana 48, the Saga 43, the Nordic 44, the Passport 40, and the Flying Dutchman 12 meter (FD-12).

Perry has also taught yacht design at Evergreen State College and written several books and articles on yacht design and sailing. He is active on social media and runs his own website where he showcases his designs and shares his insights on yacht design. He is still designing new boats and enjoys sailing on his own boat, a Perry-designed Saga 43 named 'Flashgirl' .

The above answers were drafted by sailboat-cruising.com using GPT-4 (OpenAI’s large-scale language-generation model) as a research assistant to develop source material; to the best of our knowledge,  we believe them to be accurate.

Other sailboats in the Tayana range include:

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tayana 37 sailboat review

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22-04-2014, 10:49  
which I would possibly consider (I haven't seen it so far, but if the feedback here is generally good, I'll go and check it). It would be my first and maybe it's worth mentioning that I am not (yet) a very skilled craftsman/do-it-yourself man; I will have to get major done by professionals and I'm wondering what I have to expect in this regard (also $$$-wise) with this in the near- and midterm future.

Thats the boat

It seems to have a wooden (cutter/ketch) rig and a lot of . It's in the , I would register it in Switzerland, asking presently USD 55000, EU-VAT paid.

I would take it to the for at least a few years but I would like to have it ready for a possible later on. Is it possible to keep this boat for another 20 years at a reasonable ?

Thank you all for any support,

Best regards
Florian
24-04-2014, 04:49  
Boat: CD25
is a plus
spars should be inspected very carefully when you have her surveyed
Good luck
24-04-2014, 05:06  
has better performance than the rig that I have, but I would like to challenge him on that. Things that I would look out for is in that wooden as well as the bow sprit and check the chain plates. Also if it has decks then be very cautious. Best of Luck. Oh...look at the tank locations to see if there is one in the forward part of the boat which may contribute to hobby horsing.
24-04-2014, 05:45  
Boat: Outbound 44
which I would possibly consider (I haven't seen it so far, but if the feedback here is generally good, I'll go and check it). It would be my first boat and maybe it's worth mentioning that I am not (yet) a very skilled craftsman/do-it-yourself man; I will have to get major done by professionals and I'm wondering what I have to expect in this regard (also $$$-wise) with this boat in the near- and midterm future......
24-04-2014, 05:47  
Boat: Rafiki 37
, , . It's definitly not a boat for everyone. I looked at number of Tayana-37s before my boat, which is very similar. Any older boat is going to require ongoing maintenance (actually, all boats do), so your lack of skills may become expensive. It's also a fairly large first boat. I assume you've got sailing and cruising experience on other boats.

Can this be kept for another 20 years? Of course it can. "Reasonable price" is relative to you. It will not be , but no cruising boat will be .

The boat appears to have been maintained well and upgraded along the way. The masts make me nervous (never having had one), although obviously they have worked fine for many. A thorough examination for is necessary. You'll want to check on their life expectancy.

Teak decks can be a problem. These would be screwed in (unless they've been completely redone). I didn't see any obvious problems from the video or photos; calking looked good, no raising, no gaps. Examine the whole carefully. Look for discolouration, especially around thru-deck fittings like stanchions. This could indicate intrusion into the . Obvisouly look for soft spots.

You'll have the and standing checked out, along with a full (of course). Look at the . Many boats of that generation and build had iron . These are prone to rust damage (although can also be fine ... like ours). All thru-hulls need close examination.

Price is a bit high if it was here in North America. Maybe not in your market.

If this is the kind of boat you're looking for, then this one certainly looks like a good example.
24-04-2014, 08:18  
Boat: President 43 Sportfish
skills.
"whatever spare parts you bring, you'll never need"--goboatingnow
"Id rather drown than have computers take over my life."--d design
24-04-2014, 09:02  
Boat: Islander 34
joinery/woodwork is excellent.

Problem areas are as other said, rot in Wood and bow sprint, Soft cored decks from caused by the 1000's of screws holding the in place. Of course have someone chek all the rigging too.

The original iron was a problem too, but hopefully already replaced. If not, figure it will need to be pulled (it's under the V berth)

The teak of the lazzarette hatches, while glasses top and bottom, the ends were not glassed and is where rot starts. Soft lazzarette wood would need to be replaced. Not a big job for a DIY but pricy with yard labor.

The 12V panel were wired using a hot buss consisting of #12 wire daisy chained from breaker to breaker. OK in the 70's and 80's, but caused too much voltage drop with lots O things, (fridge, , , etc) Should be rewired with #10 at least.

Unless you have lots of Euro's, the maintenance costs of hiring a yard to work on it will be extremely expensive. There is a ton of exterior teak and it needs to be varnished twice a year, to keep it looking good. Tayana's really need someone who loves to as that's a job that never ends.

But other then that and regular maintenance items they are very nice boats. I lived on one for three years and enjoyed it, except for the and varnishing.
24-04-2014, 09:06  
Boat: President 43 Sportfish
between breakers needs to be solid copper bus bars. But the whole panel likely should be replaced on a boat that age.
"whatever spare parts you bring, you'll never need"--goboatingnow
"Id rather drown than have computers take over my life."--d design
24-04-2014, 13:38  
Boat: Tayana 37
stick. Plan on pulling them at least once every couple years to perform preventive maintenance on them (read varnish) ans to any areas of dry rot. Go over tge chainplates carefully and be sure the knees they are bolted into are still solid and nor waterlogged. These are great boats, but if you're plan is to have a yard do the work, I'd strongly recommend finding something else. A 40 year old boat with lots of brightwork is going to be maintenance heavy. Unless you only plan on using the yard at first and being there to learn so you can maintain her yourself.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Cruisers Sailing Forum mobile app
24-04-2014, 17:22  
and being able to fly there for 2, 3 days to relax a bit and twice a year for some 2-week trip with my own boat (I do not want to anymore, because I'd like to be able to sail alone, at night and without doubtful restrictions) is probably not so realistic.

So basically most of you confirmed, what I'd already expected.

For the ones of you asking themselves why I want this kind of boat: I love the style (I'm not going to buy any modern design) and I would sacrifice some extra Euros just for having this kind of boat. However the maintenance costs should be kind of predictable. In fact this would not be my absolute first boat; I have a 35yrs old little dutch cruiser - very - here in Swiss freshwater. I figured out that I can take care of most of the works but I don't have the patience because I work 100% and as soon as I spend more time doing maintenance than hanging around drinking on the boat it has to go to the yard.

I think I'll still have a look at that Tayana and try to figure out wheter this is a good example of a Tayana 37 or not. It's in the - The Dutch usually keep their boats in a very good shape. There are some signs (on the video) that work has been done on the boat (electricity seems to be new, modern displays in the aso). The Netherlands is a wet place so if they have managed to keep these wooden masts upright for almost 40 years maybe it's worth to have a closer look.

If you say "extremely expensive" regarding work being done by a yard, what do you mean more precisely? What would for example be an approximate price for having all the teak removed from the deck or the whole rig replaced? I'm not rich, but I would probably accept another $ 20-30k during lets say the first five years for and maintenance being done by a yard. is less an issue than time. Time is the main reason for my do-it-yourself handicap :-)

I know, an almost maintenance free 6 years old former boat for the same price would make much more sense for me. But I don't like them... I admit, that is not all rational.

Thank you very much for your help!

Florian
24-04-2014, 18:21  
Boat: Rafiki 37
. If it is in such poor shape that you would need to remove it, then I would not buy the boat. If the deck is in good shape, and has been maintained properly, then leave it. It will last a long time if properly cared for.
24-04-2014, 19:12  
Boat: Tayana 37
penetration of the deck , that alone would eat up all of your 20-30k to have the yard do the work.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Cruisers Sailing Forum mobile app
24-04-2014, 20:33  
Boat: President 43 Sportfish

"whatever spare parts you bring, you'll never need"--goboatingnow
"Id rather drown than have computers take over my life."--d design
25-04-2014, 05:38  
Boat: Farrier f27
. It actually had to be sailed to make windward progress in 15 kts and 5 ft seas. I don't see the point of having a boat that can't sail well close hauled.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Cruisers Sailing Forum mobile app
25-04-2014, 07:06  
Boat: Tayana 37
. It actually had to be motor sailed to make windward progress in 15 kts and 5 ft seas. I don't see the point of having a boat that can't sail well close hauled.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Cruisers Sailing Forum mobile app
 
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  • Sailboat Reviews

Heavy Glass Hull Marks Tayana 37 Boat

tayana 37 sailboat review

The hull of the Tayana 37 is a fairly heavy, solid-glass layup. Some roving print-through is evident in the topsides. In the past, the hull-to-deck joint has occasionally been a problem. There is no doubt it is strong, but there have been numerous reports of leaking.

Part of the problem with the hull-to-deck joint is the fact that the hull and deck moldings form a hollow bulwark extending well above the main deck level. This bulwark is pierced by hawsepipes and several large scuppers at deck level. Careful bedding of all fittings that penetrate the bulwarks is essential to avoid leaks. On new boats, the entire hollow bulwark is glassed over from inside the hull, greatly reducing the possibility of leaks. This results in an incredibly labor-intensive joint, but labor intensive is the name of the game in Taiwanese boatbuilding.

None of the numerous through-hull fittings is recessed flush with the exterior of the hull. The argument is frequently made that this is unnecessary on cruising boats. Nothing could be further from the truth. The cruising boat is frequently undercanvassed for her displacement and wetted surface. Add to this the low-speed drag associated with projections from the hull, and you have a boat that spends a lot of time motoring in light air, when she should be sailing. While the Tayana 37 is far from under canvassed, she could benefit from a little more bottom fairing as much as the next boat. An option to recessing the through-hull fittings would be to fair them in with large micro-balloon blisters-this is not as effective as recessing, but perhaps easier to do after the fact. The rudderstock is a substantial stainless-steel rod, with the rudder held on by welded arms riveted through the rudder blade. The heel fitting is a bronze casting. This is fastened to the hull with stainless-steel bolts. Inevitably, there will be galvanic action between the bronze and the stainless, with the fastenings coming out on the short end. There is provision for protection of the rudder straps with zincs.

All hardware, including stanchions, is through-bolted and backed with stainless-steel pads. Most hardware is fairly accessible from belowdecks.

The ballast keel is an iron casting dropped into the hollow fiberglass keel shelI. The casting is glassed over on the inside of the boat. We prefer an external lead keel for its shock absorbing qualities in case of grounding.

The glasswork of the Tayana 37 is of good quality. There are no rough edges, the fillet bonding is neat, and there is no glass or resin slopped about. Tayana guarantees the hull against defects for 10 years.

The standard steering system formerly was a Taiwanese worm-gear system copied from the Edson worm gear. Recurrent problems with this system, notably extremely sloppy and mushy steering, have resulted in significant changes. The steering was changed to a pedestal system-Taiwanese-built but remarkably similar to the Edson pedestal steering.

Seacocks are used on all through-hull fittings. The seacocks appear to be copies of U.S.-made Groco valves. Hoses to seacocks are all double clamped.

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Please ask Bob Perry what his relationship is with the builder as well as the first owner. Thanks, Redhawk

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Tayana 37 cutter vs. Allied Princess 36 ketch

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I am looking seriously at these two boats for liveaboard and cruising. Both in comparable shape (pre-survey, seem to be in pretty good shape, but need some work). I'm handy and have pretty extensive experience doing major projects on boats, so I am not afraid of getting my hands dirty. All else being equal, I give the Tayana the edge, but the asking price on the Princess is more than $20k less. Thoughts from anyone who has experience with one or (better yet!) both of these boats would be appreciated!  

tayana 37 sailboat review

I think the Tayana 37 is more numerous and popular, but I can't recall anything bad said about the Allied Princess 36. In fact, it seems a tough little ketch: Allied Princess 36 Reviews and History Photo Gallery by Garry Prater at pbase.com All things considered, the Princess is 7,000 lbs lighter than the Tayana and all that teak would discourage me. The Tayana has greater tankage and range, but is probably less lively in light airs. Not crazy about that canoe stern, either, but that's mostly taste and the desire for space aft in me. Both boats are quite traditional. Imagine Yachts, Ltd., Tayana 37 yacht If all else is equal, the $20K you save on the Princess could pay for a complete repower and a new main and jib...something to consider. EDIT: Found a Practical Sailor review: Princess 36 - Practical Sailor review photo - Garry Prater photos at pbase.com  

tayana 37 sailboat review

I'd say go for the Princess and use the $20k to upgrade her, and then put whatever is left over on the cruising kitty.  

tayana 37 sailboat review

I'd opt for the Allied as well. Like Valiente, I'm not fond of the loss of stowage with a canoe stern, or the amount of teak. And that extra 20K you save, WILL come in handy. Good luck with either one though and hope one will be what you want.  

There are several points. Assuming both are say 1977 and similarly equipped the NADA base values are Allied 35600, and Tayana 30700 without counting any extras. I am not sure that I would attach to much weight to the accuracy of those figures, but from observation would say the Tayanas tend to ask more say 60k and sell for much less, say 40k whereas the equivalent Allied may be 50k and sell for 40K. Maybe the Allieds price more realistically, but both end up much the same. You are talking of a liveaboard with some cruising. Both are ocean going - the Tayana certainly is, the Allied with some reservations potentially. To a degree it depends on the balance and where you intend to go and how much, whether you favour blue water capability or liveaboard comfort. The Tayana seems a bit bigger inside and better fitted out. However with that bowsprit you are looking at higher berth costs. Blue waterwise the Tayana is heavier with a higher ballast ratio, but the displ/length are quite close, and the Tayana has a higher SA/displ at 18 v 17. However the motion comfort is 38.4 for the Tayana v 30.4. I don't think the differences are major but the Tayana should be a bit faster stiffer and more comfortable. Of more concern to me would be the cockpit volume on the Allied. A large cockpit is ok for swanning around but not filling with water. I think with those concerns in mind on some of the later Allied Princess boats, the keel was deepened by 7 inches and a 1000 lb added to the ballast. As I recall the transom was strengthened and bigger cockpit drains installed, all changes better fitting her to ocean going. However even with those she still lags the Tayana. In fact it makes her displ/L higher than the Tayana and SA/displ less. I think only a limited number of boats were modified and I have never seen one advertised with those specs so I suspect most brokers don't know they exist and just use standard figures. Either boat is ok for limited cruising but I would think the Tayana is better fitted out and a better more stable ocean boat, albeit with that bowsprit and bigger sails. There shouldn't be a 20k difference is selling price if they are equal in gear and condition. They should be similar with maybe the Tayana a bit higher as they are often reasonably equipped. If the Allied suits what you will be doing and you would be paying 20k less that goes a fair way towards upgrading.  

I didn't get the feeling the OP was discussing passagemaking in the ocean. I prefer the Tayana 37 for that use, but favour the Princess for liveaboard/coastal, because I suspect it's more apropos for gunkholing/Caribbean stuff, rather than going from Panama/Marquesas, say... One of the links I cited addressed how many Princesses have had bigger cockpit scuppers fitted as the "pooping" problem had been an issue.  

thanks so much for all the great info. actually, i did want to keep open the option for big water. I have a bit of experience in other people's boats and hope to someday plan a larger trip. what if i throw an Allied Seabreeze 35 into the mix - a yawl rig? Seems like a slightly more seaworthy boat than the Princess and can be found for about the same price advantage.  

I think you need to be more precise on what you want the boat for - to yourself not us. Hope someday a longer trip is a bit vague. Like buy for what you realistically intend doing. If it is a liveaboard that's one thing. You might find the seabreeze a bit cramped for that relative to the others. There are reviews - look at the overhang 24' lwl and narrow beam. If you might wander down the coast and maybe to the Bahamas any will do it. The other point I suggest is that you really look at your total budget. The Seabreezes advertised are from 1965 at 20k to 1970 at 35K - in each case you get what you pay for, but even the more expensive one has a petrol motor and no real offshore gear. That costs the $$. The Princess seems to come in at 72 for around 39k. I dont think the Tayana starts til 77. I am not saying there will necessarily be a major difference between a 1966 and a 1977 boat per se but a boat that has been kept up to scratch will show it and both might need substantial refitting. In say 9 years it would have to be a pretty classic upgraded 50 year or even 39 year old boat to have much residual value. Just remember that there are a lot of items eg sails rigging motor etc that may have to be replaced so it is final cost and value that counts. A 35 k boat that costs 30k to refit may then sell for 45k. The 50 k boat that costs 15 may then sell for 55K. It is pretty hard to find a boat that is cheap and good. If you are working on her for a few years, which is one choice, if you have the time, skill, and interest, is still time before you get the boat you want to use.  

I am a veteran of both fairly substantial refits and a fair number of offshore passages, some in pretty mean water here in Asia (e.g., South China Sea, Indian Ocean). To me, there's no difference between a coastal cruiser and a bluewater cruiser. If the boat isn't capable of handling a storm at sea, she shouldn't be out of the bay. There are plenty of instances where there's not time to find an appropriate harbor to escape bad weather and getting sea room is the only safe option. That turns every coastal cruiser into a potential bluewater boat. Second, I'd never buy a sailboat with a petrol engine. That's a given. Many, if not most, of the Seabreezes on the market have been repowered with Weterbekes and Yanmars. I wouldn't consider one otherwise. I'm single (divorced) with a 10-year-old son who lives with me half the time. So, accomodations should of course be comfortable, but I do intend to sail as often as I can - mostly near shore, but once annually or so down the coast, maybe to the Bahamas. Eventually, depending on the job, I will probably want to try something a bit more ambitious. In short, I want that option.  

Well my two cents worth would be the Princess as being capable of what you want. You have the skills and $ probably count. Enjoy your son and good fortune.  

thanks chris, i am still mulling it and have to get a first-hand look at the Seabreeze, as I am still out of the country. cheers  

tayana 37 sailboat review

I own a Ty37 and used to race on an Allied 36. Performance-wise the Ty37 will win hands down in light winds as well as rough weather. PHRF-NE 174 vs. PHRF-NE 210. I also find the Ty37 a bit more weatherly (I tack through close to 90 but with inboard sheeting ... and use the staysail under a genoa for upwind), but requires more finesse in sail shaping and setting, etc. because of the inherent complexity of balancing forestay/headstay tensions, etc. If you're not used to precise setting/shaping, a cutter will be just a "Winnebago with triangular cloth on top" ... not an 'easy' rig to sail (well). I find the Ty37 a bit top-heavy with a slow roll period, initiallly tender to about 15+ degrees then 'solid'; slips off to the lee beyond 30deg. of heel. Very 'sea-kindly' motion (I power-puke on a 'snapper'). To me the A36 is a bit stiffer; but, with that short waterline length a bit of a 'hobbyhorse' in comparison. With a good set of light sails, feathering prop and properly faired and smooooooth hull (and bottom paint) the Ty37 is very good in light air. Full sails up (w/135 & staysail) gives you about 1150 sq. ft. aloft, although for beating she performs better to windward a bit 'shortened' or well flattened. The cockpit is small and proper for a bluewater boat; therefore not good for 'dockside entertaining'. The MkII has higher cockpit coaming, especially at the stern. My Ty37 has a clubfooted staysail .... absolutely LOVE it. Good for shorthanding, excellent for sailshape (but needs to be vanged when off the wind.). Definitly the Ty37 has immensely more interior volume (and more importantly **stowage**) and can carry more at 1200 #/in than the A36 at 900#/in. Ty37s are all semi-custom inside. Rarely will you ever find two the same on the inside. The interior are an intelligent design for a seaway with handholds, etc. with easy reach ... everywhere. There were some 'pullman berth' versions built ... could you imagine a pullman berth in a heavy seaway??!!! The interior work is impeccable with masterful joinery ... but do seek out one thats been varnished inside as an oil finish usually and ultimately goes 'dark as a tomb' over time ... then its a royal ***** to restore back to 'bright'. The teak is either old growth Thai or Burmese (with 'wonderful' grain). Noone in their right mind will add weight to the ends of a sea-going boat ... so the misperception of apparent lack of stowage in the pinched stern doesnt matter. For buoyancy of the pinched stern: take a look at that FAT underwater stern 'bustle', that canoe stern is simply 'style' and most certainly has vastly more reserve buoyancy than an IOR design. Besides, there is a 'ton' of stowage elsewhere on a Ty37. I will never understand why someone would want to add **weight** inside the ends of a boat. Expect to pay $80K-90K+ for a 'good' Ty37 ... usually direct from a current owner. Most available boats are found in FL and also Tx ... but some are usually available in the MidAtlantic. I prefer a MkII configuration ... deeper cockpit, etc., mine is a MkI. Most of Ty37s from the 80s will have a Yanmar, those older will have a Perkins. Downsides of a Ty37 that bear investigation: Teak decks ... especially if left unmaintained/grey Bowsprit rot ... nuff said but easily repairable if youre handy. Chainplate bases ... if wet will probably need total rebuilding due to crevice corrosion of the 'non-removable' chainplate attachment bolting. Substandard OEM rigging components. Has intermediate shrouds which dont do much support and add a lot of weight aloft (change out to hi tech runners). Bulwark leaks in older (70s) boats A 'mixture' of fasteners: Whitworth(Imperial variant), SAE, even some god-awful metric profile. Encapsulated keel (but internal ballast is a casting not 'scrap punchings set in concrete') Black iron fuel tank (rots from underneath from the outside) ... usually mounted in the bow (so dont totally fill it with 100+ gallons !!!). Wiring is 'automotive' grade ... not tinned and should be entirely replaced with tinned wiring. Brightwork ... I use Honey Teak (hand-rubbed equal to a 'Hinckly quality' varnish job) and am going into my 7th season with only 'minor repair' of the HT - yearly maintenance is a quick coat with HT 2part clear over; I do the 'whole' boat in less than 6 hours every 2 years and lightly powerbuff the HT every intervening year. I havent been in true stink conditions in an A36 but have been F9-10 in my Ty37 and find its a very stable platform that puts a smile on your face because of its stability ... although I'd like a finer bow to cut through the 'heavy' stuff. With a cutaway full keel with slack bilges, its like riding on steel rails as the boat essentially self steers when the sailplan is balanced. With almost 650 built you wont have much problem locating a 'good' one ... look at a 'few' before making a decision. A 'good' or 'restored' Ty37 will hold its value very well; but, there are a LOT of 'project' Ty37s out there. ........ and you can tell Im somewhat biased toward the Ty37: better sailing in heavy & light, vastly better stowage, more interior, 'sea-kindlier', built like tank, a 'true' cutter, more value for the $$$, etc. hope this helps.  

Excellent information, Rich! Really appreciate your frank and thorough assessment. As I said, I prefer the Tayana myself, but have been trying to psychologically sell myself on the bigger price-tag. I had heard about the chainplate backing problems and investigated the fix - I am sure I can do it, if necessary. Leaky-teaky decks worry me more, precisely because I have done the strip, scoop, rebed before on a smaller boat. Not fun! But, I agree with your points. You make a lot of sense.  

Allied vs Gulfstar Hi everyone... curious which boat "Alberg 30" sprung for? I'm looking at a Allied Princess or a Gulfstar 37... Just looking for reviews on both Cheers  

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tayana 37 sailboat review

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  1. Bob Perrys Salty Tayana 37-Footer Boat Review

    The stern design of the Tayana 37 borrows heavily from the well-known Aage Nielsen-designed ketch, the Holger Danske, winner of the 1980 Bermuda Race. It is one of the more handsome Baltic-type sterns on any production sailboat. The Tayana 37 began life as the CT 37. In 1979, the boat became known as the Tayana 37, named for Ta Yang Yacht ...

  2. Tayana 37: Used Boat Review

    September 1, 2012. Soltara, hauled out in Panama. It was Walter and Ellen Bruj's first passage with Soltara, the 1978 Tayana 37 they'd bought in 1998 and spent some six years refurbishing. The 700-mile course from Galveston Bay, Texas, to Isla Mujeres, Mexico, was set, and they left in beautiful Gulf weather in February 2004.

  3. TAYANA 37: Ubiquitous Bluewater Sailboat

    June 22, 2010. The Tayana 37 is the most successful of the many Taiwan-built double-ended full-keel cruisers that were conceived in the mid-1970s in the wake of the great success of the Westsail 32. Designed by Bob Perry and originally marketed as the CT 37 when first introduced in 1976, over 600 Tayana 37s have since been built.

  4. Tayana 37 performance

    A more modern designed cruising boat such as referenced above will IMHO make a better cruiser for most unless you want the 'traditional' look etc. then buy your boat and don't worry about the performance. Had a friend who owned and lived aboard a Tayana 37 and then upgraded to a Passport 40. He was shocked at the sailing performance difference.

  5. Tayana 37: What You Should Know

    Looking to buy a 35-40 foot sailboat? Considering a Tayana 37? See a Tayana 37 for sale? What are the pros and cons of this cruising sailboat? Watch this vid...

  6. PDF Tayana 37 Cutter

    The Tayana 37 began life as the CT 37. In 1979 the boat became known as the Tayana 37, named for Ta Yang Yacht Building Company. While some snobbishness exists among some owners who own the CT version, Perry insists that this is illusory. According to the designer. the CT 37 and the Tayana 37 are the same boat, built by the same men in the same ...

  7. Tayana 37

    » Tayana UK Corporate website, Tayana 37 brochure and pictures. » Good Old Boat Magazine, Mar 2005, Tayana 37 review by Karen Larsen. Boat comparison by Ted Brewer. » Blue Water Sailing Magazine, Jun 1997, Tayana 37 review. » Used Boat Notebook: From the pages of Sailing Magazine (p118-121), review of the Tayana 37.

  8. Tayana 37

    The Tayana 37 is a Taiwanese sailboat that was designed by American Robert Perry as a cruiser and first built in 1976. The design was originally commissioned by Will Eckert, of ... Tayana 37. In a 1994 review Richard Sherwood wrote that the "Tayana [37] is in many respects — perhaps except for the double-ended design — typical of the many ...

  9. TAYANA 37: Ubiquitous Bluewater Sailboat

    TAYANA 37: Ubiquitous Bluewater Sailboat. The Tayana 37 is the most successful of the many Taiwan-built double-ended full-keel cruisers that were conceived in the mid-1970s in the wake of the great success of the Westsail 32. Designed by Bob Perry and originally marketed as the CT 37 when first introduced in 1976, over 600 Tayana 37s have since ...

  10. The Tayana 37 Sailboat

    The Tayana 37 Sailboat Specs & Key Performance Indicators. The Tayana 37, a long-keeled cutter, was designed by Bob Perry and built in Taiwan by Ta Yang Yacht Building. ... A Sail Area/Displacement Ratio of 17.4 suggests that the Tayana 37 will, in the right conditions, approach her maximum hull speed readily and satisfy the sailing performance ...

  11. TAYANA 37

    The design was commissioned by Will Eckert, a partner in Flying Dutchman Yachts, along with C.T. Chen of the Ta Yang Yacht Building. First called TA CHIAO 37. 40 were built as the TA YANG 37. The rights were sold to Ta Yang, the primary builder of this, one of most successful boats of this type, with nearly 600 built. Available as cutter or ketch.

  12. 46] BOAT TOUR After A BIG REFIT

    BOAT TOUR! Check out our bluewater sailboat (a Tayana 37 from 1976) - a tiny home that can sail around the world. We show you everything that's on deck, as w...

  13. 1977 Tayana 37

    A Tayana 37 is a good boat for someone who wants a low cost offshore cruising boat and is willing to do a lot of work themselves. Your description of paying a yard to do the work on the boat in my mind makes a 1977 T-37 a terrible choice for you. By the time you add up the yard costs over the years you could have bought a much newer boat and spent less.

  14. 2020 Tayana 37

    The Tayana 37 is perhaps the most successful semi-custom cruising boat to be built. It was designed by Bob Perry and introduced in 1975 as a response to the Westsail 32 which were selling in enormous numbers. Today looking back, with the boat still in production with a boat count of 588, most still sailing, and an active owners community, it's ...

  15. Shannon 38 or tayana 37

    2 posts · Joined 2014. #5 · Jun 17, 2014. I have purchased an old Shannon 38, and have sailed Tayana's up to 54'. I picked the Shannon because of the Sketch rig which I really like. I am getting on in years and the Sketch rig is easier for me to handle than the traditional cutter. Then Shannon is very solid, quality craftsmanship and a good ...

  16. Tayana 37 Questions . . .

    Boat Review Forum. SailNet is a forum community dedicated to Sailing enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about sailing, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, repairs, reviews, maintenance, and more! ... Tayana 37 decks are NOT (usually) built over large slabs of substrate but are set over approximately 4 to 6 " squares of encapsulated ...

  17. O Tayana 37, How do I Loathe Thee?

    O, Tayana 37! How many poor souls will thee ensnare with thy seduction? How can 600 or so cruising sailors be so wrong? O, how much I loathe thee! Let me count the ways. I loathe thee for your lovely teak decks, prone to leaking, hot to touch in the tropics, and forever accumulating dirt. I loathe thee for thy alluring bowsprit, a precarious ...

  18. Baba 35 vs Tayana 37 vs Hans Christian 38

    The Tayana has sold so I am now down to comparing the Baba35 and the Hans Christian 38T. A quick comparison on Yachtworld shows these vessels are not the cheapest ones for sale but also not the most expensive. Seems to priced about right. The Average Hans Christian 38T is priced 80-130 and the average is about 120,000.

  19. Heavy Glass Hull Marks Tayana 37 Boat

    The hull of the Tayana 37 is a fairly heavy, solid-glass layup. Some roving print-through is evident in the topsides. In the past, the hull-to-deck joint has occasionally been a problem. There is no doubt it is strong, but there have been numerous reports of leaking. Part of the problem with the hull-to-deck joint is the fact that the hull and ...

  20. Tayana 37 cutter vs. Allied Princess 36 ketch

    In fact, it seems a tough little ketch: Allied Princess 36 Reviews and History Photo Gallery by Garry Prater at pbase.com. All things considered, the Princess is 7,000 lbs lighter than the Tayana and all that teak would discourage me. The Tayana has greater tankage and range, but is probably less lively in light airs.

  21. Tayana 37

    Tayana Owner's Association Tayana 37 Review - Bluewaterboats.org Tayana 38 Review - Wavetrain.org. 1986 Tayana 37 Mk II - Sold. Thanks for visiting our site. We just recently sold our our 1986 Tayana bluewater cruising boat. She is a great boat and has been extensively retrofitted over the past couple of years.