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From the Archives: Cleaning Interior Teak
- By Jan Irons
- Updated: November 5, 2015
The teak inside my 1985 Passport 37 is staved teak—the real thing. It was originally finished in satin varnish, and I cannot even think about how much it would cost (or how much work and time it would take) to refinish. Therefore I have a BIG vested interest in keeping it pristine. Twice a year I clean it completely—including every slat of the 204 slats aboard—with Murphy’s Oil Soap, let it dry, and then wipe down every inch with plain old lemon oil. The only caution is that “plain old lemon oil” in some other countries—Panama comes to mind—smells more like chemicals than lemons. Stay away!
I woke up this morning to a cloudy dreary day that looked like an ideal candidate for cleaning and lemon oiling Winterlude ‘s interior teak. It’s a project I try to tackle twice a year — once when we return to the boat and once just before we leave. Otherwise 30 year old teak will become tired and worn. Unfortunately this year I’ve been lazy and didn’t do it in November when we returned and knew I had to get it done before we leave to cruise for three months — when there will be MUCH more fun things to do than play with teak.
We are so lucky — the interior of our boat is solid teak staving — i.e. individual teak 2″ slats with a groove to all fit together. Although we did not want ANY teak when we were boat shopping, the teak is homey, warm and inviting and we’ve grown to love it… well at least 363 days a year. 🙂 So what’s up with the missing two days? That’s when I have to provide it the required TLC or it won’t stay looking pretty!
As I said I’ve been procrastinating this project for months. First I had get motivated to move everything that came into contact with the teak — books, hats, cameras, all the spices in the spice race – you’re starting to get the picture The boat is a wreck and I’m always astonished at how much CRAP we have “unstowed” everywhere! Every year I make a promise to myself to “clean up the mess” i.e. get rid of stuff just sitting around, not hidden, but every year when I do the teak I remember that I have not succeeded!
The second step is to wash all the walls and teak trim, drawers and louvered doors with Murphy Oil and water. I just squirt a bit of Murphy Oil cleaner in my little red bucket and fill it half full of water. Then I use a soft cotton rag to begin the process, starting in the front and working my way back to the companionway. I wipe down every bit of the teak – this portion of the project takes about 3 hours, without doing the quarterberth – that’s where I stuff all the stuff so that I can actually SEE the teak to clean it.
After letting it dry, I start back at the front of the boat with pure lemon oil. I use a Viva papertowel dipped in the lemon oil and proceed to wipe lemon oil over everything — generously. Despite the satin varnish, our teak will begin to soak up the lemon oil almost right away. After a half hour or hour, it begins to look quite splotchy, but I continue with getting a generous coat on all the teak and leave it alone. We’ll leave it alone for at least 24 hours. After 24 hours, I’ll take a rag and rub over to redistribute lemon oil, letting the splotchy areas that have already soaked it up have a bit more and getting rid of too much lemon oil on everything.
At this point, I start to put stuff away and regain my life. The entire project takes most of a day – by happy hour, I’m ready to celebrate it being done!
And the boat smells so good – if you like lemons!
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How to Restore Teak Wood on Boats
Probably nothing can make or break the appearance of a fiberglass boat more quickly than the appearance of the exterior teak trim. Contrary to popular belief, teak is not a maintenance-free wood that can be safely ignored and neglected for years at a time. Though teak may not rot, it can check, warp, and look depressingly drab if not properly cared for.
Although it is not immune to neglect, teak is incredibly resilient, and can be brought back to life after remarkable amounts of abuse. Therefore, there is no excuse for drab, ugly exterior teak on any boat.
Unlike other woods used for exterior trim, the grey weathering of teak rarely extends very far below the surface of the wood. Instead of the tedious scraping and sanding essential to restore the weathered surface of, for example, mahogany, a fairly simple chemical cleaning usually suffices to bring even the worst of grungy teak back to a semblance of its original glory.
However, chemical cleaning can be pretty tough on the wood. Most chemical cleaners rely on a caustic and/or an acid to clean and bleach the surface of the wood. Inevitably, these powerful cleaners gradually erode the surface, softening the pithy portions of the grain and leaving raised ridges along the tougher growth rings of the wood.
Chemical cleaners can, however, almost miraculously clean weathered teak. The four-color brochures published by teak care product companies do not exaggerate when they show bright tan teak next to grey ugly teak, claiming that only a few minutes work will transform the dirty to the clean.
For best results, however, you should never let your teak trim get to the point that such drastic measures are called for: and once you get it back to like new condition, you should be prepared to put in the time and effort required to keep it in that condition.
Cleaning Teak on Boats
If your teak is dark brown from old, oxidized dressing, or weathered grey from neglect, the first step is a thorough cleaning.
The severity of the discoloration of the wood will determine the severity of restorative measures required. Because cleaners containing acids and caustic are hard on the wood, you should try to use as mild a cleaner as will do the job, even though it may take some experimentation and a few false starts to come up with the right combination of ingredients.
The mildest teak cleaner is a general purpose household powdered cleaner such as Spic n Span . A concentrated solution of powdered cleaner and vigorous scrubbing using a very soft bristle brush or, better yet, a 3M pad, will do a surprisingly good job on teak that is basically just dirty. Don’t scrub any harder than you have to, and always scrub across the grain. Every time you scrub the teak, you are removing softer wood, which eventually results in an uneven surface that raises the grain. Regularly using a firm brush to scrub with the grain will lead to problems down the road.
The advantage of a gentle scrub using mild cleaners is that while it is more work for you, it is by far the most gentle for your teak. Since you are likely to have some powdered detergent around, always try this method before going on to more drastic measures.
Simply wet down an area with water, clean with the detergent solution, rinse with fresh water, and let it dry. If the wood comes out a nice, even light tan, youre in luck. If its still mottled or grey, a more powerful cleaner is called for.
The next step is a one part cleaner specifically designed for teak, or the equivalent. These can be either powdered or liquid. Most consist of an abrasive and a mild acid, such as phosphoric acid or oxalic acid. They are more effective in lightening a surface than a simple detergent scrub. Many household cleaners like Barkeeper’s Friend contain oxalic acid.
If the cleaner contains acid, however, some care in handling must be taken. It is advisable to wear rubber gloves and eye protection using any cleaner containing even a mild acid.
The cleaning procedure with most one-part cleaners is the same: wet the teak down, sprinkle or brush on the cleaner, scrub down, and rinse off. Be sure to rinse well.
Even badly weathered teak should come up reasonably well with a one part cleaner. When the wood dries, it should be a uniform light tan. If some areas are still grey, a repeat cleaning should do the job. If, however, the teak is still mottled or discolored, the time has come to bring out the heavy guns, and with them the heavy precautions.
The two part liquid cleaners are, with only a few exceptions, powerful caustics and acids which do an incredible job of cleaning and brightening teak, but require care in handling to avoid damage to surrounding surfaces, not to mention your own skin.
While the instructions on all two-part cleaners are explicit, a reiteration of the warnings on the labels is useful.
Adjacent surfaces, whether gelcoat, paint, or varnish, must not be contaminated by the cleaners, most of which can bleach gelcoat or paint, or soften varnish. Constant flushing of adjoining surfaces with water while cleaning is usually adequate, but masking off of freshly painted or varnished surfaces may be more effective.
Hand protection, in the form of rubber gloves, is absolutely essential. In addition, do not use these cleaners while barefooted, and preferably not while wearing shorts. Eye protection is also a good idea. The chemical burns which can result from some cleaners can be disfiguring and painful. If the product label has the key words caustic, corrosive, or acid, wear protection and avoid splashing!
There is slight variation in the instructions for the various two-part cleaners, but the general principles are the same:
1. Wet the teak down;
2. Apply part one (the caustic), spreading and lightly scrubbing with a bristle brush;
3. When the surface is a uniform wet, muddy brown, apply the second part (the acid), spreading with a clean bristle brush;
4. Apply and spread enough of the acid to turn the teak a uniform tan;
5. Rinse thoroughly, and allow to dry completely.
It is fairly common to use almost twice as much of the second liquid (the acid) as the first, in order to get uniform light color. For this reason, its a good idea to buy an additional bottle of the second solution, when it is available. Despite the fact that most manufacturers package two-part cleaners in kits of two equal-sized bottles, they usually make additional bottles of the second part available.
Unless the instructions require it, do not rinse off the muddy brown surface of the teak after it has been treated with the caustic. You will be washing unneutralized, corrosive liquid all over the rest of your boat. Thorough neutralizing with the acid wash will minimize problems.
Surface Preparation for Finishing
A freshly cleaned teak surface is a joy to behold, but it wont stay fresh, clean, and light for long if you don’t take care of it. In fact, the surface will begin to oxidise instantly as it dries. The sooner you complete treatment after cleaning, the better.
Teak, like many woods, has grain which varies a great deal in hardness, even within the same piece of wood. Over time, even a simple scrubbing with detergent will wear away the softer portions of grain, leaving ridges of harder grain. The irregularity of such a surface merely accelerates the rate at which it gets dirty again.
Before getting out the sander to smooth out the grain, however, look at both the function and construction of the wood youre dealing with.
If the teak surface youve cleaned is teak-faced plywood, theres a good chance that a thorough sanding to smooth the surface will go right through the layer of veneer, effectively ruining the piece. On the typical fiberglass sailboat, veneered or plywood components include conpanionway drop boards, hatch tops, and sometimes cockpit seats and soles. Before sanding any of the parts, examine them carefully to see if they are solid lumber or veneer. Since exposed edges of plywood are sometimes covered with veneer strips to make them look like solid lumber, you must look pretty closely.
Although decks are usually solid lumber, they also can present problems. If the decking is much less than 1/2″ thick, and has plugged (bunged) fastenings, sanding out the grain ridges may sand away enough material to sand through or loosen the bungs, exposing the fastenings.
Even when bungs are set in epoxy, they require a counterbore at least l/8″ deep to hold them in place.
Even if the grain is quite pronounced on laid teak decks, you may be better off living with a cleaned irregular surface than opening Pandoras box by trying to create a perfectly smooth surface.
On other solid teak items such as handrails, toerails, and Dorade boxes, thorough sanding of the chemically cleaned surface before treating with a sealer will result in a much more attractive surface.
Do not, as we have seen many times, attempt to restore badly weathered and grey teak by sanding before chemical cleaning. Chances are that you will quickly discover that a discouraging amount of sanding is involved, and you will end up using a chemical cleaner in any case. Sanding both before and after treatment is a waste of effort, and is likely to remove more wood than is necessary. On teak with pronounced surface irregularities, it could take forever to sand them out to get a uniform surface color, while chemical cleaning will quickly lighten even the deepest gouges or grain defects.
Wait until the cleaned teak is thoroughly dry before sanding or applying teak dressing.
Sanding of cleaned teak is not always required, particularly if the surface is to be treated with an oil-type dressing rather than a gloss finish such as varnish. Surface irregularities show far less with the matte finish of teak oils.
Granted, perfectly smooth teak is likely to be more even in color, and some esthetic sensibilities are offended by a surface showing pronounced grain pattern. From a simply functional point of view, however, irregularities are unimportant except in terms of simplified cleaning in the future.
Unless you intend to put in the effort required to maintain your teak between major cleanings, sanding the teak smooth is a waste of time. The next chemical cleaning will simply repeat the grain-raising cycle, requiring another sanding.
If you swear youre going to keep the teak up, however, a good sanding will enhance the woods appearance.
The safest tool for general sanding is a high speed orbital sander such as the Makita B04510. If you use successively finer grades of aluminum oxide sandpaper, and don’t slow the machine down by applying pressure, it will leave a smooth, relatively swirl-free surface suitable for finishing with a teak dressing.
Inexpensive, heavy, slow-speed orbital sanders should be avoided. They leave telltale swirl marks on the surface which are accentuated by the application of finish, and their sanding is generally too slow.
Never use a disc sander on a surface to be finished bright (oiled or varnished), unless you are one of the few experts who really know how to handle this potentially destructive tool.
The same goes for the belt sander. It is perhaps the most efficient tool for smoothing large, flat surfaces, but is capable of doing heartrending and irreversible damage in the hands of the inexperienced. For decks and hatches of solid lumber, the belt sander is the answer – but only if you are thoroughly experienced with the tool, and only with a heavy duty machine that has a large sanding surface.
When power sanding, always mask off adjacent areas of gelcoat. Even lightly touching a polished gelcoat surface with a sander will damage it. The same rule applies for hand sanding.
Remove masking tape immediately when sanding is completed. Even leaving the tape on overnight on an exterior surface is likely to make it difficult to remove. Tape adhesive residue can be removed with a mild solvent, such as alcohol, and gentle rubbing with a coarse cloth, such as a piece of toweling.
After sanding, remove sanding dust from all surfaces with a vacuum cleaner. If electricity is not available, sweep thoroughly with a dusting brush or a large paintbrush which will no longer be suitable for painting because it is full of sanding dust. Obviously, you don’t sacrifice your best badger hair brush for this. The cheapest bristle brush will do fine.
Applying a Finish to the Teak
The final step in rejuvenating an exterior teak surface is the application of a dressing or sealer to retain for as long as possible the appearance of the freshly prepared wood.
Our own preference is a dressing which does not darken the wood. For our top-recommended sealer check out the six-month results of our ongoing test of wood finishes . For really durable finishes on teak trim, or caprails, there are a variety of options. Search under wood finish, or teak treatments to turn up our most recent wood finish test results . This article on varnishing also has some good tips.
The choice of a teak dressing is, however, as much a matter of esthetics as function. Look around at the boats whose exterior teak looks best to you, and query the owners about the products they use.
A major caveat is in order. No exterior teak finish lasts very long. For optimum results, monthly application of dressing is required, with a good scrubbing with detergent and water before applying a fresh coat. Youre kidding yourself if you think a once-a-year treatment will keep your teak looking good.
Do not attempt to use household-type furniture oils for exterior teak. They will not stand up to the weather.
Whatever teak dressing you use, be neat in applying it. Slopped-about teak dressing may not show when it first gets on fiberglass, but it inevitably darkens with age, leaving stains that look just as bad as varnish spills, and are just about as hard to remove. Clean up spills and overruns immediately with a rag dipped in mineral spirits unless another solvent is specified by the manufacturer of the dressing.
Masking tape is not particularly effective in protecting surfaces from spills of teak dressings, as the viscosity of most dressings is so low that they simply bleed under the edge of the tape. The answer is careful application, and careful cleanup.
Maintaining Your Teak
Your job isn’t over when the last coat of dressing is applied. To look its best, exterior teak needs frequent attention. With a boat used in salt water, frequent washdowns with fresh water will prolong the life of the dressing, but scrubbings with salt water and a brush will reduce it.
Horizontal surfaces, such as hatch covers, will require more frequent coats of sealer than vertical surfaces, such as companionway dropboards. High traffic areas like a teak cockpit sole will require the most attention of all, but are the easiest to scrub and retreat, since sanding is not usually desirable.
If all this sounds like a lot of work, thats because it is. That explains why the exterior teak on so many boats looks so grubby.
It is still, however, less work than maintaining a varnished exterior teak surface – a lot less. If you really think you want varnished teak, try maintaining a clean oiled surface for a season first.
Few things look better on a boat, particularly a white on white fiberglass boat, than well-maintained exterior teak trim. An owner who neglects exterior wood is likely to be the same owner who rarely changes the oil in the engine, and who rarely bothers to put on the sail covers after a days sail when he expects hes going sailing again tomorrow.
Owning a boat isn’t all play. A boat is a major investment, and like most investments, the more attention you pay to it, the more it will return. The time you put into maintaining your exterior teak is well invested. The return is not only pride of ownership, but dollars in your pocket when the time comes to sell the boat.
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Well written and informative We just bought a 21 ft 1991 celebrity Cuddy and it’s like an antique with beautiful teakwood adorning this old girl! The boat has been well taken care of but teak is teak thanks for the tips Any tips on removing the discoloration on bottom after a few rides in the river I tried washing off but won’t rinse off I guess I waited too long to rinse Is there something you can put on the bottom so that dirt doesn’t stain
Starbrite hull cleaner
What is the caulking between the teak strips (usually black) I would like to replace some that has come out.
Jimbo. There are a few different types, each with their own characteristics. Here is a test that should help you find one that works for you. https://www.practical-sailor.com/boat-maintenance/paints/teak-deck-caulks-rated-for-durability-and-resistance-to-chemicals
That’s really nice post. I appreciate your skills. Thanks for sharing.
I really enjoy the simple yet concise steps on how to restore teak wood on a boat. As teak wood outdoors is exposed to different pollutants, it can require to keep it well-maintained as long as it is used. Thank you so much this information was certainly helpful
This was certainly the best written and most informative article I have read on the subject. I recently bought a sailboat with poorly maintained exterior teak, and now I have a solid plan going forward. Thanks
Enjoy your boat comments. Would appreciate your best idea for a older boat to be sold. I have a 43’Gulf Star Trawler,well kept,that l would like to sell How would you go about this? Will appreciate your comments.
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A Complete Guide to Teak Maintenance on Your Sailboat
By Joshua Bremmerer, CEO at Komodo Covers Teak surfaces are divisive in the boating world—loved by some for their sparkling appearance and perfect grip, loathed by others for the perceived difficulty of teak maintenance. The reality is that teak is nothing to be afraid of, as long as you follow some essential tips to take care of the material properly, minimizing costs in the process.
Teak is famed for its various grains of hard and softwood, making it naturally adhesive and anti-slip in practically any weather condition. Furthermore, it maintains a relatively cool temperature , insulating a boat to avoid engine overheating. Due to the several types of wood, different teak maintenance methods can drastically affect its ability to last.
So, it’s crucial to take the following steps into account to make sure you don’t mark the surface and keep your boat in excellent condition.
Cleaning is king
First things first, whatever you do, don’t use high-pressure cleaners on your teak because they will destroy the softer wooden elements, leaving ridges and areas that can quickly rot. Additionally, hard brushes or powerful cleaning detergents will cause a similar effect, damaging the vulnerable soft sections.
Instead, it’s much better to do regular cleaning—weekly if possible—with a very soft brush or Brite pad. You will see good results from lightly brushing against the grain with a mild detergent. If you see mildew or just want to make your sailboat sparkle, you could consider using a tiny amount of bleach, but do it with caution.
Smooth sailing with sanding
Most boaters with a teak deck consider it a standard practice to sand the surface once a year before the start of a season. Sandpapers come in various grits—for a teak deck, between 80 and 120-grit is the ideal level. The higher the number of grit, the more slippery the deck will be, so a medium level is suitable for teak as it will maintain the characteristic non-slip.
Seal the deal
Once you have cleaned and sanded the teak evenly, you can be forgiven for clapping your hands together and proclaiming a “job well done.” But you are still missing one last step—and it is a crucial one. A teak sealer will prolong the natural appearance of the wood for years to come while maintaining the pristine condition. Depending on the type of seal, some can contain biocides and even UV inhibitors which go that extra step in terms of preservation.
Aside from sealers, you can also consider using teak oil products, but be careful on how much you apply as sometimes overapplication of oil can promote mildew growth. If your boat isn’t going to be used regularly, this may not be the best course of action. The other issue with teak oil is that it doesn’t last particularly long, usually 4-12 weeks, depending on how well you have applied it.
Following these tips will put you in a great position to get your boat ready for a season on the water. If you choose the right cleaning products, sand your deck appropriately, and seal it with a good sealer, you should be able to maintain your sailboat deck for longer than you had ever imagined!
About Josh Bremmerer
Josh Bremmerer is an innate navigator, an experienced leader in the boating industry with over a decade of experience in management and company development and a lifelong passion for boating. As the manager of Glacier Ski Shop, Josh grew the small Shop into a nationally recognized business and increased profits by 400%. With that background, it’s no wonder Josh started his own business in the boating industry: Komodo Covers .
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Interior Teak Care
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What are you using to clean/oil the interior teak? My wife used orange oil on the last boat with good results (mahogany interior), could it be used on teak? Thanks
On my previous boat part of our annual spring routine was to use Murphy's Oil Soap on the interior wood followed by teak oil. Did a good job of keeping it looking good. Current boat has a varnished interior, so only gets a washdown each spring with soap and water. You don't want to use teak oil on varnished wood.
How did you apply the Murthy's Oil Soap and the teak oil?
Not wishing to dispute the comments of others or raise any hackles, here is our experience maintaining JUNO, a PSC 40 built at the Fullerton plant in 2000 -- Cleaning will depend on how the surfaces are finished. I believe most of the later Pacific Seacrafts had varnished interiors. Because interior teak surfaces were coated with a satin-finish polyurethane, oil is not recommended. Polyurethane is a completely non-porous coating. Oil, while it may look good initially, won't soak in and has nowhere to go. It will quickly begin to look smudged or smeary, especially in direct sunlight. As long as the coating is still in good condition, we have always used a light household cleaning/dusting product like Endust or Pledge. If your interior teak is varnished and has begun to absorb stuff, then it's probably time to sand and re-finish, at least in the damaged area. If your interior is unfinished or oiled, I defer to more knowledgeable posters. The soles on later model PSCs were coated with Varethane (sp?) a water-based polyurethane. We always clean it with a hardwood floor cleaner -- I think the product we use is called Bona. I think much of the above might apply to most traditional varnish finishes, too. Varnish is non-porous, and a heavy oil is just going to lay on top of it (as an analogy, think about oiling a pane of glass...the oil has nowhere to go but onto the hands and clothing of those who later touch it). Hope that helps. Roger Lopata JUNO PSC 40 -- #46
ralopata said: Cleaning will depend on how the surfaces are finished. I believe most of the later Pacific Seacrafts had varnished interiors. Because interior teak surfaces were coated with a satin-finish polyurethane, oil is not recommended. Polyurethane is a completely non-porous coating. Click to expand...
After 46 years of frequent teak oil application and apparently no cleaning by the POs, the teak in my Columbia looked like crap. Literally. I sanded it all down and applied several coats of Cabot semi gloss spar varnish from Lowes. Some pieces required more coats than others. So far, so good on durability and it actually looks like wood now.
Bees Wax
My PS37 (and I think most later/current PSs, probably including yours -- unless otherwise specified by first owner) has interior varnish: Epifanes "rubbed effect" interior varnish So my advice is just to clean with soap and water. If it looks bad due to traffic/wear, a light sanding and a coat of varnish will make it look like new.
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The Boat Galley
making boat life better
🎧How to Clean Your Boat’s Interior Teak
Published on July 19, 2022 ; last updated on November 29, 2023 by Carolyn Shearlock
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Is your boat teak looking tired and dirty? Here’s step-by-step instructions for cleaning your teak so it’s as good as new.
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Here are the basic steps that I follow to refinish interior teak: 1. If the wood has never been refinished or if the existing finish is in poor condition, remove it all from the sailboat so that you can work on it easier and apply the finish to all the surfaces. BEFORE - dull and dirty. 2.
With resistance to weathering as its primary virtue, however, teak makes less sense for use as trim below. Nevertheless, the simplicity of finishing teak, the economy of a single variety of wood in inventory, and the ready acceptance by boat buyers, are all attractive reasons why boatbuilders use the wood for interior decor.. Typically, only the most expensive boats have interior teak that is ...
Does your boat have a teak interior? Follow these reader-suggested steps to keep it gleaming. By Jan Irons Updated: November 5, 2015 The teak inside my 1985 Passport 37 is staved teak—the real thing. It was originally finished in satin varnish, and I cannot even think about how much it would cost (or how much work and time it would take) to ...
Barefoot Gal's interior teak refinishing project A funny thing happens when you tell sailing friends that you're writing a do-it-yourself (DIY) series—they start sharing stories of projects they have undertaken on their boats. When my friend Carolyn Shearlock (the founding owner of The Boat Galley) started telling me about refinishing the teak on her Gemini catamaran Barefoot Gal, my ears ...
1,258. C&C 110 Bay Shore, Long Island, NY. Jul 28, 2019. #5. Looking at your photos, your interior teak probably wasn't stained. After years and multiple coats of teak oil, teak will become dark. If you are refinishing all of the teak in your cabin, I'd recommend lemon oil. It's easy to apply and will prevent the teak from getting dark.
Jan 29, 2018. #9. Here's the interior teak condition of our "new to us" O'Day 25 - getting her delivered this Friday - I was planning on a solution using vinegar and a little ammonia, mixed with water. Would love any better ideas, or specifics, on cleaning this up. I do have teak oil for after the cleaning. Thanks!
1. Wet the teak down; 2. Apply part one (the caustic), spreading and lightly scrubbing with a bristle brush; 3. When the surface is a uniform wet, muddy brown, apply the second part (the acid), spreading with a clean bristle brush; 4. Apply and spread enough of the acid to turn the teak a uniform tan; 5.
Smooth sailing with sanding. Most boaters with a teak deck consider it a standard practice to sand the surface once a year before the start of a season. Sandpapers come in various grits—for a teak deck, between 80 and 120-grit is the ideal level. The higher the number of grit, the more slippery the deck will be, so a medium level is suitable ...
Why? Because after 40 years, that teak veneer is failing. Bubbling, peeling, stained by old leaks. Further, as we have adapted the cabin layout to better fit our needs over time, it's become somewhat patchwork. Let's call this the gift of covid: tearing into areas that needed fix (bulkhead rot) made the rest that much easier.
Mar 19, 2011. 119. Catalina 27 Marina del Rey. Nov 15, 2012. #3. For interior wood I use lemon oil once a month. It does not darken like teak oil, it smells great, and it is a natural mold fighter. Because it is interior you don't need the UV protection additives.
On my previous boat part of our annual spring routine was to use Murphy's Oil Soap on the interior wood followed by teak oil. Did a good job of keeping it looking good. Current boat has a varnished interior, so only gets a washdown each spring with soap and water. You don't want to use teak oil on varnished wood.
Here's step-by-step instructions for cleaning your teak so it's as good as new. Links: ScotchBlue Painter's Tape (Amazon) Small Foam Brushes (Amazon) Libman Scrub Brush Set (Amazon) Small Bucket for Water (Amazon) Wet Dry Sandpaper (Amazon) Sanding Blocks (Amazon)
Posts: 16,237. Re: What Oil For Interior Teak. Livos Kunos natural oil is being used on all the timber in our interior (floor included). It is mainly linseed (probably treated in some way), plus other oils such orange and pine and rosemary and an assortment of other things like wax and drying agents.
Yes, depending how far north you are, you have to reoil once or twice a year. But no scraping or removing old varnish or urethane. Understand that teak is an oily wood. The oil in teak protects the wood. So by applying a high quality teak oil, you restore original level of oils to wood.
I am not experienced with interior teak oils, but Minwax makes a good product. Most interior wood, I think you will find, including teak, is varnished instead of oiled. ... Best book on building modern sailboat interiors? Jay and Ebben, Jan 28, 2012, in forum: Boatbuilding. Replies: 17 Views: 22,477. Velsia Feb 21, 2022. Boat interior. JordieS ...
BOAT steps on board Ferretti Yachts' 26.9-metre Infynito 90 yacht with exterior design by Filippo Salvetti and interior by IdeaeITALIA. ... The sole here, as it is throughout the boat, is made with teak lamella, as opposed to more traditional planks. Besides the eco-friendliness of using recycled wood, Ferretti says the lamella, more flexible ...
26 Foot Cheoy Offshore Sloop. Well worth seeing. Perfect roomy cruising boat. Excellent Fiberglass with molded interior countertops. Teak trim inside and out. V Berth forward and Quarter berth aft. Head with holding tank and water storage with sink pump and ice box. Dining table drops for additional berth.
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Feb 4, 2005. 524. Catalina C-30 Mattituck, NY. Mar 19, 2007. #2. I would not use oil for interior Bob - I teak-oiled my interior Catalina 30 and was not pleased with the results. Teak oil holds dust and does not seal the wood off from any moisture which leads to mold, mildew and odors. I would instead research some varnish or similar types of ...
Improve this listing. All photos (2) Revenue impacts the experiences featured on this page, learn more. The area. Full view. Best nearby. Restaurants. 36 within 3 miles. Coffee Shop Usy Teodora Glagoleva.
A residential and industrial region in the south-east of Mocsow. It was founded on the spot of two villages: Chagino (what is now the Moscow Oil Refinery) and Ryazantsevo (demolished in 1979). in 1960 the town was incorporated into the City of Moscow as a district. Population - 45,000 people (2002). The district is one of the most polluted residential areas in Moscow, due to the Moscow Oil ...
Sep 13, 2012. 2,011. 1979 Hunter Cherubini 30 Clemmons. Jan 14, 2014. #5. I have had good results with a 2 part teak cleaner/brightener using a soft scrub brush. I have tons of interior teak to clean on my project boat. Problem is the PO did the teak oil and varnish thing and looks like crap.
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