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Building a J Class Model
By john hanks iii.
Now you may be wondering what is involved in building a model of a J Class yacht. I will give you an idea of what is involved in getting your J model in the water.
To begin with, let me say that you will need to do some scratch building to get your J model completed, regardless which yacht you choose to model. The scratch building will involve the deck, the rig, and probably the hardware associated with the mast, boom and rigging. With that said, you will need to decide which yacht you would like to model. In the full size J Yachts there was a definite advantage associated with which hull was in the water, but with the models, it appears that any of the J designs will make a good fast sailing model, if it is built correctly. So your decision should be driven by your personal preference for a particular boat. Once you decide which yacht you would like to model you will need to either buy a fiberglass hull or get the drawings for your chosen hull. There are hull line drawings available in the proper scale for all of the J's as well as some deck plans. You can get line drawings from several of the maritime museums, such as the Mystic Seaport Museum.
The amount of time that you will spend on building your model will vary with your building ability, whether you start with a fiberglass hull and how much detail you want to put on your model. Should you decide to scratch build the entire model with a lot of detail, you should plan on spending about 500 to 550 hours building your model. If you begin with a fiberglass hull, subtract about 150 hours, if you do not want to detail your model, deduct about another 100 hours. The cost of materials will be about $800 to $900 if you decide to completely scratch build your model.
I will begin the actual building process with a plank-on-frame hull. You can skip these steps if you start with a fiberglass hull. The process for completing the remainder of the model will be the same from that point on.
To begin the building process, you will need to get your drawings ready by extending each frame to a “waterline” that is above the deck line on the drawing. This new “waterline” will be the part of the frame that rests on the building board. The new “waterline” gives you a flat plane so that all of the frames are referenced to the building board surface, while allowing the arc of the sheer at the deck line to maintain its shape. Your modified drawing should show the hull shape, the shape of the deck beams, and the building board surface.
You will begin the building process by building a building board. The easiest way that I have found to do this is to buy an 8 foot long 4”x6” and mount it at a convenient building height on 2”x4” legs. You will need to make sure that the 4”x6” plank is straight and true and that it will stay that way through out the building process, as this will determine the trueness of your model.
Mark a centerline on your building board and then mark all of the station locations on the centerline. You will then need to draw a line perpendicular to the centerline at each of the station locations. You will next attach small blocks (approximately 1-1/2 x 1-1/2 x ¾ inch) to the building board on the centerline and aligned with the perpendicular station lines. The blocks need to be placed so that the frames that will be glued to these blocks will be centered on the perpendiculars.
The next step will be to cut out the frames that will form the hull. For this step you will need to keep in mind the difference between the line drawings for a metal hull versus a wooden hull. The drawings for a metal hull show the frames to the outside of the plating and for a wooden hull, they are to the outside of the framing, not the hull planking. This will make a difference in your model, as all of the Js were metal boats, and if you draw your frames to the lines, your model will be oversized by the thickness of your planking.
I use 1/8 inch Luan plywood for the frames. The plywood comes in a 4’x8’ sheet and I can get all 28 to 30 frames from one sheet of plywood. The frame patterns are cut from your drawing, and each frame pattern is traced on the wood. With careful placement you should have no trouble getting all of the frames traced onto the plywood. You will need to draw the cutouts for the keel, inwales and king plank in the frame tracings. The centers of the framed are also cut out so that you end up with a ring of wood that is about ¾ inch from the outside to the inside of the frame.
When I cut my frames I do not try to cut on the line that I have drawn; I am not that good with the saw. I leave a little wood, about a 1/16 inch next to the line and sand the frame to the final shape. I find that this makes it much easier to control the accuracy of the frame shape. Once all of the frames are cut and notched for the keel and inwales, they are glued to the blocks on the building board. At this point you should be able to sight down the frames and get a good idea of the shape of your hull.
With the frames glued in place, you are now ready to install the keel and the inwales. I like to use ¼ inch birch plywood for the keel and 1/4x1/4 inch square for the inwales. The inwales can be cut from the same material that you will use for the planking. The hull framing is very limber at this point but it becomes very ridged once the keel and inwales are in place.
The hull is now ready for planking. I have used pine, bass, aspen, spruce and alder for planking. All work well. The availability and price of the material is what determines which material I use. When I built my first J some 30 years ago, clear pine in 8 foot lengths was plentiful and inexpensive. Since then, it has become hard to find and very expensive. As a result I have used other woods that were available, hence the bass, aspen, spruce and alder. The planking material is cut into strips that are about 5/32 inch thick and 3/8 inch wide. This is a nice working size, as the planks are limber enough to form to the hull without the need for spiling (tapering), wetting, or steaming them. You will start the planking at the first frame and end at the last. The 2 to 3 inches of hull that remain at the ends will be filled with solid wood blocks shaped to the dimensions of the hull. Begin planking your hull at the sheer and work to the keel. Each side of the hull will require about 50 to 60 planks. Remember that you will need to alternate sides of the hull as you plank so that you keep the stresses equal on both sides of the hull, thus preventing distortion in the hull.
You will need to change direction of the planking when you get to the bilge area of the hull. The planking will take on an increased twist towards the stern that will prevent the planks from laying fair. The planks will tell you when you have reached this point, usually about 15 to 20 planks up on the hull. To overcome this you will need to lay a plank in a straight line along the hull so that it lays flat between the areas where the existing planking meets the keel. This will leave a lens shaped gap of about 4 or 5 inches between this plank and the existing planking at the middle of the hull. Fill this area by planking from the new plank that you laid down to the existing planking. Once you have completed that step, then continue to plank the rest of the hull. When you have finished your planking, you are ready to attach the bow and stern blocks, shape them, and sand the entire hull to get it ready for fiber glassing.
I like to build the rudder next and fit it to the hull. I build the rudder as I would build an airplane control surface, with a leading edge spar, three ribs, and a trailing edge. The framework is then covered with 1/32 inch plywood. The square tube that accepts the 5/32 inch brass rod rudder shaft is installed in the leading edge as well as the pivot pin at the bottom of the rudder. The hull is drilled and the rudder log is installed and the rudder is fitted in place. Once the rudder is fitted and works well, the hull is fiber glassed using a single layer of 6 ounce cloth and three to four coats of resin. Each coat of resin is sanded before the next coat is applied. When the sanding is complete you will have a smooth and fair hull that will look great when it is painted. The hull is now ready to be removed form the building board. At this time, you should also have a stand built and ready to accept the hull.
Once the hull is off of the building board, it is time to seal the inside with epoxy and install the mechanical workings in the hull as well as install any reinforcements that are needed, such as at the chain plates, mast step, and sheet exits. From this point on, the building process is the same for the fiberglass hulls once you have the deck beams in place. This is also the time to lay out the hatch openings. When laying out the hatch openings you want to keep them as small as possible and still be able to do any work inside the hull that is necessary. Nothing is more frustrating than to find out that you cannot reach some part of your equipment once the deck is in place, so be sure that you can work on and remove and replace all of the fittings, winches, ballast, etc., through the hatch(s) that you have framed in your deck.
Building the deck is the next big step in getting your J ready to sail. There are several different ways to build your deck, and your decision on how much scale detail you want on your model will drive part of that process. If you want a slick deck with no scale detail, then a simple plywood deck will do. The 1/8 inch plywood will be more than adequate for the job and can be finished so that you have a very good looking wooden deck on your model.
Another option is to build a plank deck that represents the deck on the full size yacht. If this is your preference, then you begin by cutting the deck planking to the same dimensions as the hull planking. I cut my planks to a length of 15 inches so that I have scale 20 foot planks. To simulate the deck caulking, I use black construction paper glued between the planks. Once you have the planking cut, you will need to lay the king plank down the center of the deck and the water way planks down each side of the hull. All of the Js had the planking run parallel to the edge of the hull, so you will need to begin laying your deck from the edge of the hull, and work to the center. The paper between the planks helps the glue, thin CA, flow and form a good bond at the seam. From this point on you just continue your planking until the deck is completely covered. As you build your deck you will need to cut your planking at the hatches so you will have access to the inside of the hull when you have finished your planking.
When the deck planking is complete, you will sand the whole deck and get it ready for finishing. At this point, you should have a great looking model.
Again your decision on the amount of detail that you want on your model will determine your next step. If you opt for a scale appearance, by this time you will need to make the cabins, deckhouses, winches, cleats, and anything else that goes on the deck.
The hull is now ready for finishing. I use non-water-based, clear gloss, polyurethane on the deck, cabins, and spars and automotive acrylic enamel for the color on the hull. These make very nice durable finishes which should last many years on your model. I chose to use polyurethane because it does not yellow like varnish does as it ages. This is a personal choice driven by how you would like your deck to look as it ages.
At this point you will have to ballast your model. I have found that the easiest time to do this is after the model is painted and has the scale waterline in place. Place your model in a swimming pool or other suitable tank, and place the lead in the hull until the hull sits on the waterline that is painted on the hull. You will need about 60+ pounds of lead in a manageable form, about 5 pound pigs, for this exercise. Once the lead has been placed in the hull and the proper trim established, you will need to note where the lead is in the hull and the amount at each location. You can then remove the lead from the hull and using your notes, make molds for the ballast so that it fits into the hull cavities.
The next step is building your rig. The masts for the J models will be anywhere from 8 to 91/2 feet tall, depending on which boat you are building and how you lay out the sail plan. For support, the mast will need at least two sets of spreaders with accompanying side stays, and a diamond stay. I have used both aluminum and wood to make J masts. The last mast that I built was made from spruce and was 109 inches tall, with a tear drop cross section that measured about 1-1/4 x ¾ inches. The mast was tapered in its top 3 feet and had a bolt rope slot cut in it used to attach the main sail to the mast. The mast was made from two pieces of spruce that were glued together on the centerline with the grain in each piece set so that any warps canceled each other out. The result was a stiff spar that weighed about 1-1/2 pounds ready to step on the deck Extruded aluminum masts are also available in lengths up to 10 feet, from Ludwig Manufacturing. These masts have a bolt rope slot molded in them and are both light, about 1 pound for a 10 foot piece, and stiff.
The main boom and jib club were both made from spruce. The jib club was about 33 inches long and 1x1/2 inch in cross section and tapered to 1/2 x1/2 inch at both ends. The main boom was about 45 inches long and was about 1 inch from top to bottom with a scale cross section that resembled an old wine jug. These shapes were made for a model of Rainbow.
The gooseneck attachment was made for a piece of ¼ inch thick aluminum plate and secured in a slot cut into the base of the mast. The gooseneck and boom vang pivot on a single stainless-steel rod, (welding rod) about 3 inches long. The boom can be removed from the mast by simply pulling the pivot pin; then the gooseneck and vang are released. The sail can then be slid down out of the bolt-rope slot and rolled for storage.
This is a quick overview of the building process that is needed to build a model J boat.
Below is a list of most of the materials that were used.
2 – 1”x8”x8’ pine, aspen, bass or other suitable wood that can be cut into 5/32”x3/8” strips for hull and deck planking
1 – 4’x8’x18” plywood used for hull framing, 2 if you are using one for the deck
1 – 1’x4’x1/4” five ply birch plywood for the keel
1 – 1’x2’x1/32” plywood used for the rudder sheeting
1 – 1”x4”x8’ spruce for the mast and booms (optional if you are using an aluminum mast)
4 – ¼”x12”x.030” brass strap used for chain plates, mast, and boom fittings
1 – 1/8”x3’ stainless steel welding rod used for gooseneck pivot and spreader stubs in the mast
1 – 1’x6”x1/4” aluminum plate used for the gooseneck and vang fitting (use only if you are scratch building the fittings
1 – 5/32”x12” brass round tube used for spreader bases
1 – 3/16”x12” brass rod used for the rudder shaft
1 – 7/32”x12” brass round tube used for rudder log
1 – 3/16’x12’ square brass tube used for the rudder shaft socket in the rudder
60+ pounds of lead used for ballast
4 – 8oz bottles of thin CA used for planking the hull and deck as well as general construction
1 – 2oz bottle of medium CA for general construction
32oz of 30 minute or longer set epoxy used to seal the hull interior
1 – 10’x50” 6 oz fiberglass cloth used to cover the outside of the hull
2 – Quart cans of polyester resin with catalyst used with the fiberglass cloth
6 to 8 – 2” disposable brushes used to apply polyester resin
8 – Turnbuckles used for the side stays, boom vang and diamond stay
36 – 1-72x 1” stainless steel machine screws with nuts and washers used for various attachments
90’ – 60 pound test nylon coated stainless steel fishing leader with swages used for the standing rigging
8 – Single blocks used for back stay, winch arm, up haul and rudder control
1 – Spool of 40 to 60 pound test braided Dacron line for the sheets
12 – Bowsies for various rigging adjustments
Reference Information
Reference book: Enterprise to Endeavour by Ian Dear, ISBN 1-57409-091-7
This covers most of what you would need to build your J model. I did not mention the wood or brass that I used to make the scale detail, as most of it was obtained as scrap from a cabinet shop and salvage yard. Some additional things that you will need are a radio (at least 2 channels), a quarter scale servo for the rudder, and a sail winch, either arm or drum with about 3,000 inch ounces of pulling power. You would also need to order your sails from your favorite sail maker.
I hope that this answers most of your questions about what it takes to build a model of a J Class yacht. By the way the process described above applies to scratch building any R/C model sail boat, the only difference is the scale of the project. Good luck with your building project
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2023 J Boat Down the River Race Aug 25th Info CPM is now producing the Shamrock V Original Plug and mold by Dave Brawner and Ranger mold and plug by Gary Mueler Shamrock V and Range Fiberglass hulls, Rudders, Mast fittings. Current prices for the Shamrock V are as follows Hull - $625.00 Rudder w/Shoe - $175.00 Ballast (3 Piece) - $200.00 Current prices for the Ranger are as follows Hull - $700.00 Rudder w/Shoe - $175.00 SHAMROCK V BUILD SITE Fully Built Ready to sail Shamrock V J boat cost estimate. Shipping is additional Are you interested in building a J Boat? Take a look the Shamrock V Build Web site for all aspects of building a J Boat SHAMROCK V BUILD SITE Build queue Deposit Policy To be placed into the CPM Build Queue a min deposit of $100 is required. Due to the custom nature of building fiberglass hulls and components this deposit is NON refundable. J Boat Video's
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ManufacturersJ class yacht models. Showing 1–12 of 19 results  America’s Cup Columbia Model Ship (Standard Range) – AM (AS076F) Bristol Yacht Model Ship – OMH (Y096) Columbia Half Hull – GN (HH008P) Columbia Yacht L – OMH (Y155) Endeavour Frame hull (Standard Range) – GN Endeavour Half Hull – GN (HH005P) Endeavour Half Hull – GN (HH005W-60) Endeavour Model Yacht (Standard Range) – GN Endeavour Model Yacht Black / White (Standard Range) – AM (AS155) Endeavour Model Yacht Red/White (Standard Range) – AM (AS154) J-Yacht ‘Rainbow’ 1934 Model (Standard Range) – AM (AS152) J-Yacht ‘Ranger’ 1937 Model (Standard Range) – AM (AS150)Information.
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Filter resultsJavaScript appears to be disabled in your browser. JavaScript must be enabled in order to utilise the full functionalilty of this website. GET A DISPLAY CASE FOR YOUR MODEL BOAT OR AIRPLANE MODEL. ADD IT AT THE CHECK OUT OR CONTACT US  J-Class Yacht Model Endeavour Overall size: 54 cm (L) x 70 cm (H) ONLY 1 IN STOCK Share the love with your friendComplete the form below and we'll email your friend about this product
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Overall dimensions: Length: 21.25" (54 cm) Width: 4" (10 cm) Height: 27.5" (70 cm) Indulge in the timeless elegance of the J Class Endeavour yacht, beautifully captured in this handcrafted model.
PLEASE NOTE: All our models are for display and decorative purposes. They are not functioning models and must not be put in water or left outdoors. Models are shipped via DHL and shipping costs are as follows: UK mainland and Northern Ireland @ £10.50 The Scottish Highlands & Channel Islands @ £35.10 The USA @ £110.00 Please email us to request a delivery charge to your country. INTERNATIONAL DELIVERY INCLUDING EUROPE: Shipping cost doesn't include customs clearance, import taxes, duty or VAT. The buyer will be liable for payment of all import charges applicable in their respective country. Each country has a different tax rate. We advise buyers to check their government website for further information. The J Class Endeavour yacht is a sailing yacht that was originally built in 1934 for Sir Thomas Sopwith, a British aviation pioneer and yachtsman. The Endeavour yacht was one of the most famous and successful racing yachts of the J Class, a class of sailboats that were used for racing during the 1930s. The Endeavour yacht was designed by the naval architect Tore Holm and built by the Camper and Nicholsons shipyard in Gosport, England. She was designed to be fast and sleek, with a 131-foot (40-meter) wooden hull, a towering 173-foot (53-meter) mast, and a total sail area of around 9,000 square feet (836 square meters). The Endeavour yacht competed in the 1934 America's Cup race against the American defender Rainbow, but was ultimately defeated in a closely contested series of races. The yacht was then sold to a new owner and continued to compete in various racing events throughout the 1930s. After a period of neglect and disrepair, the Endeavour yacht was purchased by a new owner in the 1980s and underwent a major restoration that brought her back to her former glory. Today, the Endeavour yacht is still actively sailed and is considered one of the most iconic and beautiful racing yachts of all time. The J Class Association has a wealth of information about the history of the J Class Yachts including the J Class Endeavour. Really pleased with the model and the outstanding service. Would highly recommend. Just want to let you know that the model arrived today w/o any issues or damages. Thanks for the very good handling of my order and the good packaging. Great service throughout & extremely well packed for shipping. A beautiful designed & superbly made model of this class of yacht with attention to detail throughout. Very nice and competent pre-sales contact. Ship model is beautiful, exactly as on photos. Price/quality ratio very good and I have looked at hundreds of similar sailing yacht model offers. Model arrived 4 days early and in perfect condition. Packaging could resist a nuclear warhead. Almost needed a chainsaw to unpack ;). The model arrived exactly as scheduled. It was extremely well packed,so arrived in perfect condition. I unpacked it very carefully and it looks beautiful . Arrived very well packed indeed. First class customer service, very helpful. Purchased as a gift, recipient was delighted. The model arrived very quickly and has exceeded our expectations. My son is a sailor and has sailed near the actual Endeavour and is very impressed on the detail in the model you have done. This beautiful model arrived well packed and on time. We bought ship as a present for our father and it was absolutely perfect! Excellent service - I highly recommend. Leave a reviewExplore our catalogue.  Art Print Battle of Lowestoft | S. J. Lucas Art Print Zeven Provincien | S. J. Lucas J-Class Endeavour Half Hull Model Yacht Pen Duick | Large Scale | Varnished Canterbury J The Canterbury J Class model originates from the Christchurch Model Yacht Club in New Zealand in response to the problems the club members were experiencing sailing models with finned keels in weedy conditions, a problem that all model yacht skippers will be very familiar with and the Canterbury design is a practical solution that remains very relevant to current social and racing skippers today. The objective of this original design is for a model with good sailing manners, that can be easily transported, can be made at comparative low cost and that can be raced in a variety of conditions including weed. The Nottingham version is the same model when built and is recognised as such in the UK but as the hull is not taken from an approved Canterbury mould cannot be raced against other Canterbury's outside the UK. If you intend to race outside the UK then you will need to buy a Canterbury.  The principal difference between the Canterbury and the Nottingham is that the ballast for the Canterbury is external, being bolted up to the bottom of the hull to complete the keel whereas the Nottingham version has the same ballast placed inside the hull, which is now a full moulding. The rudder is also slightly different as the lower rudder pintle is different on the Nottingham version and the Nottingham rudder has a small cut out to accommodate the shape of the pintle.  I n other respects the model is the same. The same internal woodwork and deck can be used, also the rigs are the same. Those clubs in the UK that race J will generally adopt the Canterbury Association Rules and a link to these rules is provided on this site. The build process is slightly different in so far as fitting the ballast externally will require that filler is used to smooth the joint between the ballast and the hull and the hull will then require painting to finish.  This picture shows the ballast, the same for both the Canterbury and the Nottingham 48. The model builder will drill two holes in the bottom of the Canterbury moulding and bolt the ballast up to the hull. The trim weight fits inside the hull and the aluminium strip can be used to support a lifting handle on the deck. I suggest that a layer of filler is applied to the bottom of the hull and which will be squeezed out as the bolts are tightened, this should avoid any air pockets.
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Endeavour J Class Yacht America’s Cup 1934 Model Ship Kit – Amati (AM1700/82)The Endeavour J Class Yacht America’s Cup 1934 Model Ship Kit is manufactured by Amati ship model kits. Amati Model Ship Kits are faithful interpretations of the original vessel. All materials are of the finest available and plans and instructions are always excellent and easily followed. Amati has integrated computer design and the latest materials to produce high quality ship model kits. History of the Endeavour J Class Yacht America’s Cup 1934The Schooner Endeavour staked a claim on the America’s Cup, winning the first two races. The third regatta was bound to be the most exciting. Fate played an unkind trick to Sir Thomas Sopwith, who failed and thus couldn’t win the America’s Cup. Model Kit includes plank-on-bulkhead construction; laser cutted wooden deck and planking; brass and wooden fittings; photo etched brass details; cloth sails; plans and detailed instructions. You may also like… 5,5 YACHT – International Class DRAGON CLASS YACHT – International Class RAINBOW – J Class America’s Cup 1934 DUTCH GOLDEN YACHT 1660Join 18,543 other modelers to hear about specials, new products and modeling tips
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 A pocket guide to the J Class yachts – the world’s most elegant racing fleet
Toby Hodges profiles the world's most beautiful fleet of classic racing yachts – the J Class Shamrock V – JK3 J Class yacht Shamrock sailplan LOA: 36.50m /119ft 9in · LWL: 26.7m/87ft 7in · Beam: 6.00m/19ft 8in · Disp: 166 tonnes Original lines: Charles E Nicholson Modified design: Dykstra Naval Architects Launch year and yard: 1930, Camper & Nicholsons Identifying features: The only wooden J and the smallest. Dark green hull with bronze deck fittings. Current state: She has just had a refit in Palma after a long period under her past owner chartering, cruising and occasional racing. Race prediction:Her smaller size means she will struggle against the other J Class yachts in real time – but she has the most experienced skipper and her recent mods are all aimed at making her competitive on handicap. Skipper: Simon Lacey · Race Helmsman: Mike ‘Moose’ Sanderson  Photo: J Class Association / Gerhard Standop Velsheda – JK7 J Class yacht Velsheda sailplan LOA: 39.25m/128ft 9in · LWL: 27.8m/91ft 3in · Beam: 6.57m/21ft 7in · Disp: 180 tonnes Launch year and yard: 1933, Camper & Nicholsons. Rebuilt by Southampton Yacht Services in 1997. Identifying features: Dark blue hull, pinched transom and that iconic sharp J bow. Current state: Continually optimised and very well prepared. Race prediction: Highly experienced, well-gelled crew and a yacht that is looking particularly nimble and aggressive at the start. Despite surrendering size to the modern J Class yachts she’s a firm favourite to win any regatta. Skipper: Barney Henshaw-Depledge · Race helmsman: Owner-driver Helen Fretter goes racing on board J Class yacht Velsheda  Photo: J Class Association / Onne van der Wal Endeavour – JK4 J Class yacht Endeavour sailplan LOA: 39.31m/128ft 12in · LWL: 27.30m/89ft 7in · Beam: 6.68m/21ft 11in · Disp: 175 tonnes Launch year and yard: 1934, Camper & Nicholson. Relaunched by Royal Huisman in 1989. Identifying features: Royal ‘Endeavour Blue’ hull, clean deck, single deckhouse. Current state: Completely refitted by Yachting Developments in 2010-11. Based between Palma and Cascais she is for sale through Edmiston and in prize condition. Race prediction: Fully optimised and race ready, but is up for sale and now already unlikely to be ready in time for Bermuda. Skipper: Luke Bines · Race helmsman: N/A (Torben Grael in 2012) Video exclusive: what it’s like to sail the iconic J Class Endeavour  Photo: J Class Association / Jens Fischer Ranger – J5 J Class yacht Ranger sailplan LOA: 41.63m/136ft 7in · LWL: 28.80m/94ft 6in · Beam: 6.41m/21ft 0in · Disp: 203 tonnes Original design: Starling Burgess and Olin Stephens Modified design: Studio Scanu, Reichel Pugh, Fred Elliot and Dykstra Naval Architects Launch year and yard: 2003, Danish Yacht Identifying features: White hull with snub nose and spoon bow. Current state: Refitted and optimised at Newport Shipyard 2016, where chainplates were moved forward and tracks modified to take a bigger headsail. Race prediction: The heaviest J, but a rocket in flat water, such as in Bermuda’s Great Sound. A veteran crew whose consistency is Ranger’s trump card. Skipper: Dan Jackson · Race helmsman: Erle Williams Ranger J5 – the first completely new J Class yacht  Ranger , J5 RYS centenary 2015. Photo Paul Wyeth Rainbow – JH2 J Class yacht Rainbow sailplan LOA: 39.89m/130ft 11in · LWL: 26.90m/88ft 3in · Beam: 6.42m/21ft 1in · Disp: 167 tonnes Original lines: William Starling Burgess Launch year and yard: 2012, Holland Jachtbouw Identifying features: Black hull, red bottom and modern grey rig with race boom. Current state: Sold in 2015 by Chris Gongriep, the former owner of Holland Jachtbouw, she has since solely been used for cruising by her US owner who shows no signs of wanting to race, although she will be in Bermuda to watch. Race prediction: Was cruised and raced extensively for a couple of seasons after she was built and has proven to be a supremely fast boat for her size in the right hands. J Class yacht Rainbow – the Dutch destroyer Hanuman – JK6 J Class yacht Hanuman sailplan LOA: 42.19m/138ft 5in · LWL: 27.50m/90ft 3in · Beam: 6.60m/21ft 8in · Disp: 180 tonnes Launch year and yard: 2009 Royal Huisman Identifying features: Carries the old Endeavour II sail number JK6 – but a totally modern day reinterpretation of Sopwith’s second boat, built in aluminium. Current state: Her weight and stability were optimised at Newport Shipyard in 2016 and she was also fitted with a new mast and rigging, plus a new furling headstay. Race prediction: With her same core Comanche/Puma crew and Ken Read on the wheel, this is a highly race-oriented J Class yacht. Skipper: Greg Sloat · Race helmsman: Ken Read Inside J class yacht Hanuman  Lionheart JH1 J Class yacht Lionheart sailplan LOA: 43.4m/142ft 5in · LWL 27.2m/89ft 3in · Beam: 6.55m/21ft 6in · Disp: 180 tonnes Original lines: Starling Burgess and Olin Stephens Modified design: Hoek Design Launch year and yard: 2010, Bloemsma and Claasen Jachtbouw Identifying features: Black hull and rig, bulwarks giving a high freeboard effect, two deckhouses. Current state: Constantly upgraded, Lionheart has new North raw sails with plans to build more sails before Bermuda. Race prediction: Lionheart is consistently optimised, has some key pros and a fantastic crew spirit. Should be finishing in the top three in Bermuda. Skipper: Toby Brand · Race helmsman: Owner-driver · Tactics: Bouwe Bekking J Class yacht Lionheart J/H1 – replica of an original that was never built  Photo: J Class Association / Thierry Martinez  J Class yacht Topaz sailplan LOA: 42.7m/140ft 1in · LWL: 27.8m/91ft 3in · Beam: 6.75m/22ft 2in · Disp: 180 tonnes Original lines: Frank Paine Launch year and yard: 2015, Holland Jachtbouw Identifying features: Longest waterline of all the Js (for which there is a sail area penalty) she has a striking Art Deco interior and a dark blue hull with turquoise antifoul. Current state: New and raring to go. Race prediction: With her fuller volume forward, longer waterline and shorter keel, Hoek believes she will be the fastest J Class downwind and in light airs. The crew has practised hard since last year and now has top big boat helm in Holmberg. Skipper: Romke Lopik · Race helmsman: Peter Holmberg New J Class yacht named Topaz is launched – and the design team says she is “absolutely stunning”  Photo: J Class Association / Carlo Borlenghi  J Class yacht Svea sailplan LOA: 43.6m/143ft 1in · LWL: 27.6m/90ft 7in · Beam: 6.65m/21ft 10in · Disp: 180 tonnes Original lines: Tore Holm Launch year and yard: 2017, Bloemsma / Vitters Identifying features: Dark grey metallic hull, near flush ultra-clean, ergonomically optimised deck with low single doghouse and huge 8ft diameter wheel that turns in a well that extends down to the keel frames. Current state: Just launched. Race prediction: Tore Holm was a gifted Metre designer and Svea looks like a fast upwind boat, with a race oriented deck design and a slippery underwater shape. It’s asking a lot of her crew to be competitive for 2017. Skipper: Paul ‘PK’ Kelly Race helmsman: Owner driver Nine Js and counting: J Class Svea J-S1 is sold and under construction at Vitters The history of the J-ClassThe Js are inextricably linked with the America’s Cup as, barring Velsheda , all were built for the purpose of America’s Cup racing. From 1929 to 1937, 20 J Class yachts were designed. Ten of these went on to be built, with six racing in the America’s Cup finals. A modern J Class yacht’s lines can only be taken from the original designs, ensuring the fleet’s look endures. ages of sail
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Endeavour w/ Tools - Wooden Hull (Amati, 1:80) Availability: In stock Endeavour J Class with Tools - Amati Wooden Kit Part #AM1700/10 Scale 1:80 - Total length cm. 48 (18.9") - Height cm. 70 (27.6")
Related ProductsCheck items to add to the cart or select all  Combo Set #1 - Endeavour - Wooden Hull Endeavour J Class with Tools - Amati AM1700/10 The yacht Endeavour staked a claim on the America's Cup, winning the first two races. The third regatta was bound to be the most exciting. Fate played an unkind trick to Sir Thoms Sopwith, who failed and thus couldn't win the America's Cup. Wooden model ship kit features plank-on-frame construction with laser cut keel, frames and deck; double planking in basswood and mahogany; metal and wooden fittings; cloth sails; wooden detailed mast; brass photoetched parts; plans and detailed instructions Also includes a selection of model building tools. Be the first to review this product Product TagsUse spaces to separate tags. Use single quotes (') for phrases.
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Enter your search words hereUsername or Email Address Remember Me Building a J-Class 1/16 scale model R/C sailboat!As I prepare the build log for these models, here are a few notes about them. John Hanks III, president of the scale model J-Class Association, has sent me some of these notes. Many thanks to his invaluable help as I research this subject and build up the digital designs for these frames. From John Hanks’ build notes Please note that these notes are not yet in any sort of logical order. The keels are deepened by the 2″ allowed in the AMYA J Class rules as they will all be used for R/C sailing. You will also notice that the rudders are larger than scale to improve maneuverability. The Class Rules were designed to help overcome some of the stability loss that occurs when you scale a full size boat down to a model. The loss of stability happens with all boats that are scaled down to a model size with the smaller the model is compared to the full size version the greater the loss in stability. Larry Ludwig is the supplier for most of the aluminum masts for the Js. his masts are extruded and come in 10′ sections with each 10′ piece weighing just 1 lb. As far as a source of wood goes I get most of my wood for planking, both deck and hull, and framing from the local home improvement store. I then cut it to the dimensions that I want. The 1/4″ keel material is from the local hobby shop and is 12″ x 48″ 5 ply birch that is used in model airplane construction. I get most of my exotic or fancy wood from a local cabinet shop as trash trimmings usually for free. I buy scrap brass by the pound from the local metal yard and then machine it to what I need. The small brass strap and rod that I use is from the local hobby shop. Dean is the only manufacturer that I know of who could supply ready made metal parts in the correct scale for the deck detail on the J models. I have used all of the following woods for planking, both deck and hull, in the construction of my Js; pine, bass, alder, aspen, mahogany, spruce and poplar. The choice of the wood for each project was driven by the price and availability of what I wanted. The fiberglass cloth, resin and disposable brushes were purchased at the local auto parts store. I have purchased lead at the local tire store as scrap wheel weights, shot from the sporting goods store and plumbers lead that I found in a local pawn shop. You could also try your local scrap yard. The builder must understand that even with a hull kit there will be a certain amount of scratch building that will need to be done in order to complete a sailing model. Track down a cpoy of Model Yachting #156, Summer 2009. It is an issue that features the J Class and there are several pieces that I wrote that address the AMYA J Class models from history to construction. It should answer most of your questions. I am in the process of doing the same for an upcoming issue of model yachting and I will update all of the pieces that that have been published previously. There were 2 Endeavours. Endeavour raced against Rainbow in 34. She was a faster boat than Rainbow and Rainbow only won because Sopwith had a labor dispute with his crew shortly before he left England for the US and had to sail with an inexperienced crew as the original crew went on strike. The boat was not sailed to its potential so it lost to a slower but better sailed yacht. Endeavour II was a completely new boat built by Sopwith to challenge for the 37 cup. Once the challenge was received Vanderbilt had Ranger built to defend the Cup. Endeavour II was a slightly larger yacht than Endeavour with changes to her lines. She was faster than Endeavour but could not compete with Ranger who won convincingly in 4 straight races. Comments are closed. Advertisement©Copyright 2012 modellers-workshop  AMYA Boat Classes
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ManufacturersJ class yacht models. Showing the single result  America’s Cup Columbia Model Ship (Standard Range) – AM (AS076F) Endeavour Frame hull (Standard Range) – GN Endeavour Model Yacht (Standard Range) – GN Endeavour Model Yacht Black / White (Standard Range) – AM (AS155) Endeavour Model Yacht Red/White (Standard Range) – AM (AS154) J-Yacht ‘Rainbow’ 1934 Model (Standard Range) – AM (AS152) J-Yacht ‘Ranger’ 1937 Model (Standard Range) – AM (AS150) Pen Duick Model Ship – GN Pen Duick Model Yacht (Standard Range) – AM (AS053) Pond Yacht (Standard Range) – GN Shamrock Wooden Model Yacht (Standard Range) – AM (AS157) Velsheda Model Yacht (Standard Range) – GNInformation.
 Follow us to keep up-to-date using our social networks   Canterbury J Class Model Yacht A Brief History of the Canterbury J Class Model Yacht Sailing at the Christchurch Model Yacht Club [CMYC] in 1996-1997 there was a small classic J Class model yacht named RANGER with a length of 1.2 metres and this was owned by Dave Heanly. This yacht was J1 which was eventually purchased from Dave and is now on display in the CMYC club rooms at Hagley Park.  A group of CMYC members decided the J Class yacht would be ideal for easy fully rigged transport and sailing in weedy conditions at Lake Victoria. The hull of number J1 was purchased from Model Boats and the sail plan designed by Hugh Hobden. An approach was made to purchase more hulls. Euan Sargison negotiated and another 9 hulls were purchased and sold very quickly. The J Class Squadron was formed 2 Sep 1997. Two more hulls appeared making the total at this time twelve. More hulls were in demand and the place that originally sold the hulls advised that the mould had been lost. After investigating it was found that the original hulls supplied had been taken from a Timaru J Class yacht. It was decided to make a Canterbury mould with adjustments. The hull was deepened by 16mm and the lead reduced by 16mm and the trim weight put inside the hull. The J Class squadron purchased the new mould with a loan from Peter Vincent and the loan was repaid from hull sales. Number J13 was the first hull To promote the sailing class three trophies were donated by Peter Vincent. More Canterbury J Class historical information can be found HERE  The basic philosophy was to have an easily sailed and economically built RC yacht’ based on a one design principles to provide good resale value, and with racing dependent more on the skipper rather than designer/builder skill.These objects have been attained and the Class has attracted many first time sailors, mostly from the retired ranks who share the common creed, “it sure beats gardening!” The boat can be transported easily in the average car or station wagon fully rigged. Many boats have features of the original Canterbury J Class. The “Wednesday Windlers” can muster fleets of 30 plus for their around-the-lake sailing on Lake Victoria. Why not visit the lake on a Wednesday? Members turn out, except in the most atrocious weather, and are pleased to “turn over the controls” to any interested spectator.  377 hulls [December 2022] have been purchased and they are to be found in all areas of New Zealand and as far afield as the USA, Australia, Canada, Germany and the UK. It is a one-design yacht and all hull shells, keels and trim weights are made from moulds officially approved by the Canterbury J Association with an identification number moulded into the hull. There are rules that, prohibit exotic materials, define a fixed minimum weight, strictly control dimensions in the three sizes of sail rigs. The yacht can be bought as a kit or in separate pieces and assembled as the budget allows. This also allows members handy at making small components to make many of the parts and keep the price down. All parts are available: hulls white polyester, keels, brass fittings, and computer-generated sails, winches and radio gear. If you cannot find the part you want we will find it or we can make it at reasonable costs. There is also an active and increasing North Island fleet sailing out of the T auranga Radio Sailing Club Gilmour Lake Waihi , [links to external sites] , Palmerston North and Auckland  No products Product successfully added to your shopping cartThere are 0 items in your cart. there is 1 item in your cart..
 Display all pictures 1901 America's Cup J Class Yacht Model Columbia 37"Model AS108F Condition New More details This product is no longer in stock Warning: Last items in stock! Availability date: Write a reviewSend to a friend.  1901 America's Cup J Class Yacht Model Columbia 37" Recipient : Name of your friend * : E-mail address of your friend * : * Required fields Send or Cancel
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Forgot your password? J Class Yacht Rigging Question By David Lester October 14, 2022 in Masting, rigging and sails
Recommended PostsDavid lester. I am launched into a new project building a J Class yacht for a friend (Amati Shamrock V) and I have a question about the rigging that maybe someone knows the answer to. The kit provides only natural coloured line (ecru, tan, off-white or whatever you want to call it) and the picture of the model on the box shows all of the rigging (both running and standing) done in this colour. Somehow this doesn't seem right to me. Since this is a 1930's era yacht, would it be correct to believe that the standing rigging would actually have been wire cable. Somehow that seems likely to me. Does anyone out there know? On my Bluenose model the plans stated that all the standing rigging on that vessel was wire cable and had serving. (I didn't have a serving machine at that time, so just ignored this and simply used black line.) If the rigging on Shamrock V is wire cable, is it likely to have been served as well? Somehow that seems less likely to me. Again, if anyone knows, I'd be grateful. If the standing rigging is wire cable and is not served, what do people think would be the best colour line to use for it. Simply black, or stick with the ecru line provided or would you do something unusual, such as gray. (I'm not going to try my hand at using actual wire.) Anyway, any thoughts you have would be much appreciated.  Current Build - St. Roch, Billing Boats; HMS Agamemnon, Caldercraft (on hold) Previous Builds - Armed Virginia Sloop, Model Shipways; Constitution, Model Shipways; Rattlesnake, Mamoli; Virginia Privateer, Marine Model Co, restoration; Prince de Neufchatel, Model Shipways; Charles W. Morgan, Model Shipways; Pride of Baltimore II, Model Shipways, Bluenose, Model Shipways (x2); Niagara, Model Shipways; Mayfower, Model Shipways; Shamrock V, Amati; HMS Pegasus, Victory/Amati Link to commentShare on other sites, roger pellett. America’s Cup competition has always featured boats built with high tech features to gain a competitive edge. This was as true in the 1930’s as it is today. Furthermore, the very tall Marconi rigs were highly stressed and rigging was tuned (highly tensioned) to provide optimum performance. Stretch had to be minimized. As a minimum the J boats would have been rigged with wire rope. In later years America’s Cup yachts featured solid rod rigging. More research needs to be done to determined which was used.
According to Llewellyn Howland III in his biography of W. Starling Burgess, the first large yacht to utilize solid bar rigging was the 1934 America’s Cup defender Rainbow. The bars couldn’t be produced in long enough lengths requiring turnbuckles half way up. Shamrock V would, therefore, have been rigged with wire rope. Apparently, the J Boats also used wire rope for some running rigging. Burgess, became marooned atop Enterprise’s mast when he used the main halyard to hoist him up. The wire rope halyard was heavier than he was!
 2 hours ago, Roger Pellett said: Burgess, became marooned atop Enterprise’s mast when he used the main halyard to hoist him up. The wire rope halyard was heavier than he was! 
 I know it is a 7 hour drive from Cobourg to midtown Manhattan, but if you can do it, contact the office of the chairman of the Model Committee at the New York Yacht Club to arrange a visit. I think the current chairman is Peter Sweetser. In years past they left me alone for a few hours with the collection to make sketches (but no photos at the time.) Perhaps now they will also allow photos. It is a fascinating collection of over 1200 of some of the best schooner and racing models in the world.
PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series. Click on http://trafalgar.tv There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time. THANK YOU Thanks for the input, guys (and the stories too.) That's pretty much what I guessed to be the case. I don't think I'll try using wire for the standing rigging however; I'd never get it lay straight and even and I imagine just a slight touch might put a slight bend in it. I'll probably just end up using black line, but maybe I'll experiment a bit with a metal-like colour. Allan, thanks for the information about the NYYC model collection. I had a look at their website and I think That would certainly be a great place to visit, however, I don't see a New York adventure in my near future (let's be honest, I rarely leave the basement!) Thanks again, Every year during the SNAME conference there is a dinner for Naval Architecture alumni of the University of Michigan. While not a SNAME member, I always get invited. One year the dinner was held at the New York Yacht Club. Unlike most yacht clubs it’s in the middle of Manhattan, not on the water. I was able to schedule other business to be in NYC to attend the dinner. As Allan writes, a visit to the club’s model is an opportunity not to be missed. The model collection is spectacular and I don’t think that they are about to put them in storage to make room for a more “relevant” display. I would suspect that Shamrock’s wire rigging would not have been served. Designers of these yachts were concerned with the aerodynamics of the rig. They would have tried to minimize the cross sectional area of the standing rigging to cut wind resistance. Here again, more research is necessary but I believe that the racing rigs were considering to be “temporary.” When these challengers crossed the Atlantic to race, if sailed they did so under reduced rig. Later the Cup Rules allowed boats to be towed or shipped on a steamer. The racing rig was erected upon arrival in the US for competition. Some of the American J’s were furnished with several masts that could be swapped out during the trials. In any case, these boats did not have long lives. 2 hours ago, David Lester said: but maybe I'll experiment a bit with a metal-like colour. I look forward to following your build log David. I totally agree that using wire is a nightmare. I had more pin holes in my fingers in one session than all the tiny cuts from scalpels over 40+ years. I have a couple spools of the stuff in the shop that will take care of hanging pictures for the rest of my life. Do try getting some metal like thread instead of the wire. Would the wire color be more towards black than grey? It easy to make crimps regardless of the color to avoid serving but I am not so sure seizings and serving was not used on racing yachts 100 years ago, Roger you probably have it right, but was this the norm when Shamrock V was in her racing heyday? I suspect some research should turn up some contemporary photos that will give the answer. Shamrock V displaces 146 tons. There is a rule of thumb that for a racing yacht the breaking strength of the shrouds should be equal to the displacement. A quick check of a wire rope table says 2” wire rope is 320,000 lbs, close enough. At your scale that would be 0.025”. I don’t know if they were using rod rigging yet, but that would obviously be a little smaller. I doubt they had gone to oval cross section yet to reduce windage. The pictures of Shamrock in the present day are all clearly rod rigging. Per my post above, The first J Boat rigged with rod rigging was the 1934 American Cup defender Rainbow. There is an interesting connection between prewar yacht design and the aircraft industry. Starling Burgess, Rainbow’s designer designed airplanes in the 1920’s, and Sopwith, builder of the famous Sopwith Camel owned one or more of the British challengers. Designers of these high performance yachts, therefore, would have followed developments in building high performance aircraft. Burgess was also involved in the application of aluminum for boats and cars. Burgess used proprietary fittings for attaching rigging to Rainbow’s spars and the hull. High quality small diameter diameter wire rope can be bought from fishing tackle suppliers. It is used for towing “downriggers,” heavy lead weights used to control depth of fishing lines. I also have a stash of very small diameter stranded wire cable that I used many years ago in an unsuccessful attempt at control line model airplane flying.  You can find small multi-strand wire in jewelry supplies in hobby stores. I have some Beadalon brand 7 strand at 0.012", (0.30 mm) 0.015" (0.38 mm) and 0.018" (0.46 mm) diameter. I also have some nylon coated Cable Strand Corp. Acculon brand 3 strand at 0.012" (0.30 mm) diameter. Current build: https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/19611-albatros-by-dr-pr-mantua-scale-140-about-1815/&tab=comments#comment-601276 Previous build: https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/19321-uss-oklahoma-city-clg-5-1971-3d-cad-model/ I have no love for working with any kind of wire, but that has been my experience so maybe time for another try using the wire you mention. Are you using crimps or some other securing method and do you find it difficult to keep things tight? Pictures???? Thank you very much. Join the conversationYou can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.  × Pasted as rich text. Paste as plain text instead Only 75 emoji are allowed. × Your link has been automatically embedded. 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J Class Yacht Models. Showing the single result View Product. Sale! Pen Duick Model Yacht (Standard Range) - AM (AS053) USD $ ... J-Yacht 'Ranger' 1937 Model (Standard Range) - AM (AS150) USD $ 259 Original price was: USD $259. USD $ 227 Current price is: USD $227. View Product. Sale!
This is a quick overview of the building process that is needed to build a model J boat. Below is a list of most of the materials that were used. WOOD. 2 - 1"x8"x8' pine, aspen, bass or other suitable wood that can be cut into 5/32"x3/8" strips for hull and deck planking.
45" Scale Model of the Olympic Star Boat. View Page. J Class Boat-Shamrock V. 1/16 (8'-10')Scale Replica of the 1930's America's Cup Class Yacht ... The J Class models are 1/16th scale hulls of the J Class yachts that sailed for the America´s Cup from 1930 through 1937 as well as the yachts that were converted to the J Class and competed with ...
Feel free to contact me on [email protected] if you have any questions. You can also phone on 07969 538626 but I'm often out of the country and calling can be expensive.
The J Class models are 1/16th scale hulls of the J Class yachts that sailed for the America's Cup from 1930 through 1937 as well as the yachts that were converted to the J Class and competed with the America's Cup yachts in club regattas. The models are the largest recognized class in the AMYA with hull lengths ranging from about 7 feet in ...
The J Class model range consists of two J Class hulls, the Nottingham 48 and the Nottingham 60, each of which can be built to carry either bermuda rigs, gaff rigs and coming shortly a genoa rig. In addition I'm nearing the end of the development of the International Dragon, a little under 60 inches and designed from outset to carry a genoa rig ...
J Class Yachts; Liners and Model Cruise Ships; Modern Yachts & Boats; ... J Class Yacht Models. Showing 1-12 of 19 results. View Product. Sale! America's Cup Columbia Model Ship (Standard Range) - AM (AS076F) £164. View Product. Sale! Bristol Yacht Model Ship - OMH (Y096) ...
Our J-Class yacht models and racing yachts are for display and decorative purposes only - they are not functioning models and cannot got in the water. Our selection of stunning sailing model yachts includes the J Class Endeavour, Pen Duick and America's Cup racing yacht Australia II. These sailing model yachts are lacquer painted for a sleek finish, except for the large scale Pen Duick. They ...
J-Class Yacht Model Endeavour. £402.00. Discover the timeless elegance and legendary performance of the J Class Endeavour yacht. Immerse yourself in the rich heritage of sailing as you embark on a journey aboard our meticulously crafted yacht models. Every intricate detail, from the meticulously crafted decking to the elegant brass fittings ...
The J Class yacht model is 70 cm tall. Indulge in the timeless elegance of the J Class Endeavour yacht, beautifully captured in this handcrafted model. Adorned with a lustrous navy and burgundy lacquered paint, this sailing masterpiece exudes a sleek and sophisticated glamour.
Canterbury J. The Canterbury J Class model originates from the Christchurch Model Yacht Club in New Zealand in response to the problems the club members were experiencing sailing models with finned keels in weedy conditions, a problem that all model yacht skippers will be very familiar with and the Canterbury design is a practical solution that remains very relevant to current social and ...
The Endeavour J Class Yacht America's Cup 1934 Model Ship Kit is manufactured by Amati ship model kits. Amati Model Ship Kits are faithful interpretations of the original vessel. All materials are of the finest available and plans and instructions are always excellent and easily followed. Amati has integrated computer design and the latest ...
J Class yacht Velsheda sailplan. LOA: 39.25m/128ft 9in · LWL: 27.8m/91ft 3in · Beam: 6.57m/21ft 7in · Disp: 180 tonnes. Original lines: Charles E Nicholson. Modified design: Dykstra Naval ...
J Class Yachts; Liners and Model Cruises; Modern Yachts & Boats; Modern Military Ships; Modern Sailing Boats; Tankers, Bulk Carriers & Containers ... Home > Bespoke Model Ships & Boats > J Class Yacht Models J Class Yacht Models. Showing the single result View Product. Endeavour Model Yacht (Superior Range) - PSM ...
Wooden model kit of the Endeavour, J-Class America's Cup racing yacht. Kit features plank-on-bulkhead wooden hull and includes free set of tools. Great beginner's kit. ... Endeavour J Class with Tools - Amati AM1700/10. The yacht Endeavour staked a claim on the America's Cup, winning the first two races. The third regatta was bound to be the ...
The keels are deepened by the 2″ allowed in the AMYA J Class rules as they will all be used for R/C sailing. You will also notice that the rudders are larger than scale to improve maneuverability. The Class Rules were designed to help overcome some of the stability loss that occurs when you scale a full size boat down to a model.
The J class yachts are 1/16 scale versions of the original 1930's J-boats only, making it the largest of all the RC yachts. These classic yachts recreate the style of yachting's Golden Era, on a grand but affordable scale. ... These encompass free-sailing model yachts, older designs converted to R/C and pre-1970s R/C sailing models. There are ...
Classic Yachts; Historical Ships; J Class Yachts; Liners and Model Cruise Ships; Liners and Cruises; Modern Yachts; Modern Military; Sailing Boat Models; ... J-Class Model Yacht 5.5 Kit - Corel (SM53) AUD $ 228 Original price was: AUD $228. AUD $ 165 Current price is: AUD $165. AUD $ 165. View Product.
Endeavour is a 130-foot (40 m) J-class yacht built for the 1934 America's Cup by Camper and Nicholson in Gosport, Portsmouth Harbour, England. She was built for Sir Thomas Sopwith who used his aviation design expertise to ensure the yacht was the most advanced of its day with a steel hull and mast.
Classic Yachts; Historical Ships; J Class Yachts; Liners and Model Cruise Ships; Liners and Cruises; ... J-Yacht 'Ranger' 1937 Model (Standard Range) - AM (AS150) AUD $ 387 Original price was: AUD $387. AUD $ 339 Current price is: AUD $339. AUD $ 339. View Product. Pen Duick Model Ship - GN
A Brief History of the Canterbury J Class Model Yacht. Sailing at the Christchurch Model Yacht Club [CMYC] in 1996-1997 there was a small classic J Class model yacht named RANGER with a length of 1.2 metres and this was owned by Dave Heanly. This yacht was J1 which was eventually purchased from Dave and is now on display in the CMYC club rooms ...
The rigging attaches with hooks (no knot tying). This Columbia 1901 sailboat model was specially designed & built by the plank on frame method (joining multiple small pieces of wood together on the hull). The hull topsides have been painted black and the bottom and decks are varnished with marine quality varnish. Fittings are handmade of bronze.
Shamrock V displaces 146 tons. There is a rule of thumb that for a racing yacht the breaking strength of the shrouds should be equal to the displacement. A quick check of a wire rope table says 2" wire rope is 320,000 lbs, close enough. At your scale that would be 0.025".